The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 133 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY Re: <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY tight? Re: <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY Re: <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts Re: Anti-Seize on Spark Plug Threads? Jay's Fikse wheels and offset/tire fit Re: Vented Batteries (WAS: Optima Battery Install) Re: Vented Batteries (WAS: Optima Battery Install) Re: <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY tight? Re: <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY tight? Re: [bmwuucdigest] belt tension e30 chirping!!!! ugh!! e34 Sway Bar Links Re: Anti-Seize on Spark Plug Threads? Re: BMW Tow Hooks
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 23:00:59 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> John Kjos wrote: > Interesting. How do you lock the inertia wheel? sharp yank on the belt, which engages the inertial reel as if you were in an accident. this works even if you can't move the seat forward (if you're tall for instance). you just need to work the yank such that you get it to lock at a length which will force you to really suck in yourself to get the belt to the buckle, then you're locked in and ready to go. Ben ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 23:07:59 -0400 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY tight? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Just yank it quickly. Alternatively, you can pull it all the way out, which should get it to lock as it retracts. vty, --Dennis -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Kjos Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2004 10:46 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY tight? Dennis, Interesting. How do you lock the inertia wheel? John Kjos '99 540i/6: Dinan S '01 525iTa: Stock Portland, OR ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2004 6:28 AM Subject: Re: [UUC] <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY tight? > Ken wrote: > > >First DE this coming weekend (Road America) in the new car. I'll be > taking it real easy--5th time at this track but I'm sure it will feel > really different: '95 318i to '04 M3/SMG! Yes, I'll probably get > another set of Schroth's but haven't decided yet. And yes I upgraded > the pads and fluid first--I'm more worried about upgrading my brain :-). > ________________ > > How to get the seatbelts really tight? Try this. Slide the seat all the > way back. Fasten the belt. Lock the inertia reel. Now use the power seat > adjustment to slide the seat forward. You should be "trapped" in the stock > 3-point belt really, really tight. I use this trick all the time. > > vty, > > --Dennis > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 23:23:13 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dennis Liu wrote: > Alternatively, you can pull it all the way out, which > should get it to lock as it retracts. actually this _should_ only be the case in passenger & rear seating positions. it's an ALR - automatic locking restraint feature & is designed for holding in child seats, but shouldn't be in the driver's seat. since the feature costs money inside the retractor it wouldn't make sense to have it on the driver's side. I don't know whether the adoption of ISOfix & other standardized child seat anchors in recent cars has changed the implementation of ALR or not. IIRC my wife's Mini has it, will have to check the STi & see if it also does. Ben often wondered why we put ALR on passenger side seats when they're not supposed to be used for child seats in the first place... ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 00:12:05 -0400 From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 11:23 PM -0400 4/11/04, ben keyes wrote: >Dennis Liu wrote: > >> Alternatively, you can pull it all the way out, which >> should get it to lock as it retracts. > >actually this _should_ only be the case in passenger & >rear seating positions. That is true. A couple years ago I bought a seatbelt made for a RHD car figuring it might be easier to lock me in at the track. After a few months it stopped retracting. -- ...steven TechFest East http://www.nccbmwcca.org/techfesteast 2003 Mini Cooper S 1996 BMW 328ti ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 20:16:39 -0700 From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Steve Lilley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: BMW UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Anti-Seize on Spark Plug Threads? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Steve, It may have been me who recommended anti-sieze. No different torque spec is needed. A little dab on the threads is sufficient as it will spread around as the threads are turned. If you work on enough cars eventually you will come across a siezed spark plug or snapped off lug bolt. Ugliest is a snapped off spark plug. Barry >Why I'm thinking about it, what's the common consensus on using >Anti-Seize on Spark Plug Threads? I've never used it before, but >saw someone recommend it at one point (maybe here on this list). I >change my own plugs every year (my BMW) or two years (wife's Volvo), >and don't remember ever having trouble getting them in/out, but want >to make sure I'm not missing something important. >Regards, >Steve >'04 330i ZHP (his) >'00 323i (was his) >'98 Volvo V70XC (hers) > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 23:16:47 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Jay's Fikse wheels and offset/tire fit Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Jay; A little late to the party... Your Fikse wheels may not be "stock" offset. I have a set of FM-5 that were produced around end 1999 and are 17x8.5 at all 4 corners. At that time Fikse was selling sizes for the E36M3 that had 37.7 mm offset. The stock offset at all 4 corners for all the stock BMW wheels on the E36M3 is 41 mm. That 3.3 mm could make a difference if you are pushing the limits on tire sizing. I have also had the experience that tires are significantly different. You have to be very carefuly when comparing one manufacturer to another when you are talking about close tolerances on these cars. One manuf. 245 width is definitely not another's. And, even the different models within the same manuf. can't be depended upon to have the same size if they are both 245. If you absolutely want to know if a tire fits for your application and you are pushing the limits to the mm for fitting tires on your car you literally have to find someone with exactly your same setup including suspension and camber settings to figure it out. Or, do a lot of research and take a few chances. Sounds like going to the body shop to get a little fender rolling is a good idea. Sometimes raising the rear up just a few mm can do the trick or even adding a little negative camber. Regards, Marc 95M3 with Fikse FM-5 with Toyo RA-1s 235/40/17 for the track (these rubbed under compression on the right read until adding 10 mm more spring pad to the rear with 1.5 negative camber each side) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 23:26:51 -0400 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Vented Batteries (WAS: Optima Battery Install) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Speaking of vented batteries ... As I understand, many (all?) BMW's use a vented battery as per factory requirements. So, you say that it is a benefit to have a sealed battery, and I say you are going against BMW requirements (devil's advocate here). So, why are BMW's supposed to have vented batteries, and does it really matter? Stan > Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 15:35:28 -0400 > From: Martin Bullen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > With the battery on my Z3 conking out over the winter (after 7 years, > but only 22k miles) I picked up an Optima 34R (what used to be the > "orange top", with reversed terminals) to put into the M3, and > transferred the group 48 I'd put into the M a couple of years ago over > to the Z3. > > It was actually pretty easy. I basically followed the principles that > Shawn Fogg used to put an Optima into a Z3, which he outlines on his > website: > > http://www.ackthud.net/shawnfogg/optima.html > > All I had to do was the same modication he outlines to the hold down > clamp. I also found that if I turned the clamp over, I didn't need the > spacer nuts Shawn mentions. The only other trick to the installation > was that the cables were only just long enough. I put them in place > before I snugged the battery down. Oh, and I used a battery saver, > which plugs a 9v battery into the cigarette lighter, to save the radio > presets/code/window initialisation, etc. > > The only (minor) drawback is that the tray over the battery doesn't sit > quite flush, but it's not noticeable. If I'd routed the battery handle > under the wires it might not even be a problem. > > So, no parts to buy, except the battery itself, it removes some weight > from the car, is maintenance-free (and sealed, so no vent hose), and > should prevent any corrosion issues caused a leaking battery. > > Martin Bullen > '95 M3 > '97 Z3 2.8 > > > ------------------------------ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 21:03:14 -0700 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Vented Batteries (WAS: Optima Battery Install) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Sun, Apr 11, 2004 at 11:26:51PM -0400, Stan Jackson Jr. wrote: > Speaking of vented batteries ... > > As I understand, many (all?) BMW's use a vented battery as per factory > requirements. So, you say that it is a benefit to have a sealed > battery, and I say you are going against BMW requirements (devil's > advocate here). > > So, why are BMW's supposed to have vented batteries, and does it > really matter? The "standard" 12V car battery is a vented unit. The difference with BMW is that the battery is usually in a poorly vented compartment where vented hydrogen would be a hazard. Thus there is a need for a battery with a directed vent - directed only to a hose that is run outside the compartment. My theory is that a sealed battery is as good as a properly vented battery in that neither of them will release explosive gasses into the battery compartment. -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 20:36:24 -0700 From: "Grant Low" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY tight? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Dennis, > > Interesting. How do you lock the inertia wheel? > > John Kjos > '99 540i/6: Dinan S > '01 525iTa: Stock > Portland, OR /lurk I will say this is harder to accomplish with a manual seat. I usually go back 2 or 3 positions, do the yank-on-the-belt. Then I twist at the waist to grab the lever with one hand and pull myself forward by grabbing the steering wheel. It's a bit awkward, but I've never owned a car with power seats, so I don't know any better! The whole process does work very well though. I do it when I'm driving out in the country as well. After a couple minutes, I forget about the restrictiveness and appreciate the tight hold. Grant ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 23:46:36 -0400 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY tight? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> When I instruct, I sometimes find myself in a car with manual seats and no comfortable way to lock the belt and still reach the slide lever. If I'm lucky, I can just use the heel of my driving shoe to lift up on the slide lever, and pull myself forward. It's surprising how often that works... :-) vty, --Dennis -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Grant Low Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2004 11:36 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY tight? > Dennis, > > Interesting. How do you lock the inertia wheel? > > John Kjos > '99 540i/6: Dinan S > '01 525iTa: Stock > Portland, OR /lurk I will say this is harder to accomplish with a manual seat. I usually go back 2 or 3 positions, do the yank-on-the-belt. Then I twist at the waist to grab the lever with one hand and pull myself forward by grabbing the steering wheel. It's a bit awkward, but I've never owned a car with power seats, so I don't know any better! The whole process does work very well though. I do it when I'm driving out in the country as well. After a couple minutes, I forget about the restrictiveness and appreciate the tight hold. Grant Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 23:56:32 -0500 From: "Robert M. Ellsworth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] belt tension Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> In all cases where I've replaced serpentine belts with these tensioners, the tool of choice is a breaker bar, not a ratchet handle. I started with an 18" bar, but am now using a 24" one. These easily provide the necessary leverage to get the tensioner fully relieved. In my experience, even a long box-end wrench or a standard ratchet handle (even with a cheater pipe) isn't convenient at the angle you need to be pushing through (and especially to hold the tension while you are finagling the belt into position with one or more hands!) I have not had a problem getting reasonable 'starting' alignment with six-point tools, although if you're using a hex socket you might need to remove it and rotate 90 degrees to get the right 'indexing' angle for clearance through the needed arc and whatever parts of your body are doing the turning and holding... I have also seen some 'specialty tools' which are essentially a square-recess socket extension, like a short extension bar, with a ratchet built in, and a 'speeder ring' around the outside. This would let you position the actual socket or Allen extension and then set the effective starting angle of the bar, at the cost of an additional 2" or so of lateral clearance requirement. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 08:43:44 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: e30 chirping!!!! ugh!! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Under heavy pedal while the car (84 325e) is moving (can't get it to do it just revving the engine, even with parking brake on), I hear a distinct, high pitched chirping sound. Think air cooled VW.....NOT what I want out of my BMW (as a former Scirocco owner I can say that and not get in trouble.) The whole exhaust sytem is relatively (4 months) new. Cat is from Steve D., rest of system is Ebersproecher. It made the sound after swapping out the system, but then I took it off the car to work on the driveshaft and check the gaskets. There were no leak patterns on the gaskets btwn the manifold and the cat and the cat and the rest of the system, connoting to me a good seal. I replaced the gaskets and toqued with care. Can you over torque and buckle the gaskets? Could this be a leak on the intake side? Has anyone EVER had a problem with a bad cat? Again, I'd love to be able to crawl under car and locate it myself but it requires a loaded engine. Help......thanks!! Dave 84 325 Beetle ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 09:28:10 -0400 From: John Barfuss <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: e34 Sway Bar Links Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'd been sensing a looseness in the front suspension of my 540i, along with occasional light clunking at low speeds on rougher pavement. Besides the standard "upper control arm bushings" -- which I had previously replaced using BavAuto arms with pre-pressed 750 bushings -- it was suggested I replace the sway bar links. Dealers/shops wanted $200-275+ to replace. I bought a pair of German-made links on eBay for less than $40 delivered, and put 'em on this weekend when I swapped out snow tires (picked up new locking nuts at NAPA). Old links were so loose the ball joint practically flopped up and down on one of them when you shook it. Front end is now tight and silent. Even took most of the play out of the steering. I love a $50 fix on a BMW, especially when the resulting improvement is so dramatic. JB -- (remember to read your Bentleys and support the front end on jack stands) -- John Barfuss Grand Rapids, MI 95 540iA - Alusil at 52k, valve body rebuild, sharked, 750i 3.15 LSD ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 09:24:31 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Anti-Seize on Spark Plug Threads? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Always use it. But don't get any on the electrodes. You don't need much. Gary Derian > Why I'm thinking about it, what's the common consensus on using > Anti-Seize on Spark Plug Threads? I've never used it before, but > saw someone recommend it at one point (maybe here on this list). I > change my own plugs every year (my BMW) or two years (wife's Volvo), > and don't remember ever having trouble getting them in/out, but want > to make sure I'm not missing something important. > > Seems like if you use the anti-seize, you'd need to torque the plugs > to a different spec (dry torque vs. wet torque, or something like > that). > > Regards, > Steve > '04 330i ZHP (his) > '00 323i (was his) > '98 Volvo V70XC (hers) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 07:09:34 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: BMW Tow Hooks Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Steve, I found one for our "new" E30 for a couple of bucks at Double 02 Salvage in Hayward, CA (510-782-2002, no affiliation). I'm sure other salvage yards have a few laying around. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 21:52:37 -0400 >From: Steve Lilley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: BMW UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: BMW Tow Hooks >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Does anyone know a source of cheap BMW tow hooks? I'd like to get a >second one to keep in the traveling toolkit. The dealer wants like >$22 for one, which seems outrageous for a big eye-bolt. However, >judging by the thread type, I doubt I'd be able to make one from >parts found at Home Depot. > >Yea, yea, yea....it's only $18 after discount....but I end up buying >lots of lots of parts there and I hate to spend $$s for something so >simple. > >Regards, >Steve >2004 330i ZHP ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
