The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 283 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Service Interval Cheat Sheet Re: Service Interval Cheat Sheet Re: spray on wax <E36> Recaro SRD install into a 325 Re: <E36> Recaro SRD install into a 325 citrus cleaner E34 parts Re: Weird tire wear problem - E39 528i wagon Keyed car incident takes a turn for the better <E36> Tools for front pads/rotors? Re: <E36> Tools for front pads/rotors? (no subject) Re: Re: Service advice Re: Raw Gas Smell
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 20:17:42 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Service Interval Cheat Sheet Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gary, That's actually how I discovered how quickly a air filter could become clogged. My company truck was a F350 TD with the gauge on the air cleaner housing. Depending on how dry the jobsite became, I would either be blowing the filter out or changing it quite often. When I bought the 99MY truck in 98, Ford had a 3 week wait on filters!?!?! Scary. And of course nobody but the dealer had air filters in 98-99. I noticed my M3 filter would become clogged very quickly if I drove it to the office at the site. The office was located just off of a public, busy 4 lane highway but yet enough dust around to fill up the air filter in a many of a few weeks. I eventually had to start driving a 6000 gallon water truck up and down the highway spraying it off. Crazy Fookin drivers would attempt to pass me while I had all sprayers on dumping about 1500 gallons a minute. Would nearly take the paint off and they would drive by blindly even when I attempted to stay in the middle of the 2 lanes with flashing strobes lit etc. I feel for construction workers that spend their work days on public roads. People just don't notice or care that someone's life is that close to their speeding car. On the rare occasion that we had to work on the highway adjacent to a site, I would actually put construction equipment on the road between the workers and traffic. It would take a huge amount of energy to move a Excavator or loader enough to hurt someone. A car hit @50mph hit a Caterpillar loader (lady ran right thru a road block set up by the police). Totaled her car plus she spent a week in the hospital. It cut 1 tire on the loader and dented the hydraulic tank. The operator thought he had a blow out and never noticed a car had hit him. If I remember right, he kept going with the rear wheel going over the ladies hood. Made for a very long and exciting day. Mike -> -----Original Message----- -> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gary Derian -> Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2004 6:30 PM -> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -> Subject: Re: [UUC] Service Interval Cheat Sheet -> -> -> Why not install a vacuum sensor like many diesel trucks -> have. Change the air filter when it becomes restrictive. -> -> Gary Derian -> > -> > -> Air Filter - 15,000 miles -> > -> > Visual inspection should be used also given the different -> conditions -> > lots -> of -> > us drive in. I have changed filters in as little as 3000 miles. -> > Always check the filter when changing oil, every 45 days -> or lengthy -> > dusty -> driving. -> > If you drive by a large construction site daily, it might -> clog your -> > filter in as little as 30 days. If you drive on the construction -> > site, it only takes 8hrs if dusty, for example. -> -> -> Search the -> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] -> -> -> _____________________________________________________________ -> _____________ -> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of -> the BMW CCA. -> -> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the -> Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 -> . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -> ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 17:22:40 -0700 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Service Interval Cheat Sheet Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Wed, Jul 21, 2004 at 06:30:24PM -0400, Gary Derian wrote: > Why not install a vacuum sensor like many diesel trucks have. Change the > air filter when it becomes restrictive. Why not install a giant cyclone trap from a tractor? That would be cooler, and your filter would clog more slowly. :) -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 17:54:56 -0700 From: Brad Houser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: spray on wax Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Ziv and Steve: OK, now I want to know too. Brad Houser > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ziv Gillat > Sent: Monday, July 19, 2004 4:38 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [UUC] spray on wax > > Hi Steve, > > How goes it? > > What's the Sick Shine Shop? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 18:15:33 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <E36> Recaro SRD install into a 325 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gruppe, I have a Recaro SRD that I'd like to transfer from an E30 to an E36 325is I'm going to purchase soon. The E30 install involves a bracket that allows one to re-use the stock seat tracks. What is necessary to install this Recaro into an E36 and who sells the stuff? Mucho appreciated, Carlos '88 iS parked for now, needs a new clutch __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Vote for the stars of Yahoo!'s next ad campaign! http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/yahoo/votelifeengine/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2004 08:42:59 -0400 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E36> Recaro SRD install into a 325 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Right down the road from you: TC Kline makes a low-profile slider/adapter for the E36 & Recaro seats. WHAT???? You're going to the dark side too????? Lee > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Carlos Lopez > Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2004 21:16 > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [UUC] <E36> Recaro SRD install into a 325 > > > Gruppe, > > I have a Recaro SRD that I'd like to transfer from an E30 to an E36 > 325is I'm going to purchase soon. The E30 install involves a bracket > that allows one to re-use the stock seat tracks. > > What is necessary to install this Recaro into an E36 and who sells the > stuff? > > Mucho appreciated, > > Carlos > '88 iS parked for now, needs a new clutch > > > > > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Vote for the stars of Yahoo!'s next ad campaign! > http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/yahoo/votelifeengine/ > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > ______________________________________________________________ > ____________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of > the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 18:49:20 -0700 From: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: citrus cleaner Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Scott Staewen posts...Citrus APS is $34/gal. Whew, what's in that stuff, liquid gold? For that price it should etch concrete. The Zep product is about $5/gallon. Cheers Steve ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 21:53:33 -0400 From: "Langsten" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "A BMWUUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E34 parts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Parting a 1989 525i no engine transmission, Many body parts, trunklid, right side doors, hood, rt fender switches rear seat beige leather AC Condenser and Compressor 4 alloys with ok tires great as snow wheels rear suspension Glove box, complete VG condition Numerous electronic units . . Best offer on any or all of it, must go need space ASAP! Payment by MC or VISA All shipping actual cost UPS Ground is extra. Please reply only with detailed request by email TIA, Mario L. www.VSR1.com Vintage Sports & Racing, LLC 3 Robinson Rd. Bow, NH 03304 603-228-2888 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2004 01:52:19 -0400 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Weird tire wear problem - E39 528i wagon Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Well, getting the new tire mounted tomorrow. I guess I'll go ahead and get a prophylactic 4-wheel alignment as well, in case it is a suspension issue that's causing the massive inner-edge rear tire wear. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what could fail (ball joint?) in the rear suspension that might cause this problem? Excuse my ignorance.... thanks, --Dennis -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Liu [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2004 11:20 PM To: BMW List Subject: Weird tire wear problem - E39 528i wagon So, my wife's 2000 E39 528i Touring was handling a little funny today. At slow speeds, it would "hop", then gradually disappear, reappear around 60 mph as a vibration, then disappear above 80 mph. I took it to a shop to get the wheels re-balanced, but then discovered that the left rear tire was severely worn on the inside shoulder. Down to the cord, about to blow out. GULP. Now, I took the snow tires off in early April, and the car has done maybe 4-5k miles since then. Am I correct to assume that this massive shoulder wear is caused by a misalignment in the rear? The other three tires are perfectly normal, with even wear across the tread. The outside shoulder of the tire in question looks perfectly normal. My plan is to get a replacement tire, then have the car 4-wheel-aligned. Will this likely solve the problem? Or is there a suspension component now in question? Any and all comments, questions and suggestions would be appreciated! TIA, --Dennis ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2004 04:42:40 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Keyed car incident takes a turn for the better Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Almost one week after my wife's Ti was keyed, and looking for a solution to polish, buff, touch-up, and/or repaint, the car was hit last night while parked. The fender was dented, same side the scratch went down. Turned out to be an E46 M3 owner who was moving - hit her car with his U-haul. Best part was he actually came out of his house and fessed up, which was noble, because the accident had no witnesses and there was no note posted on the car. (This happened in a neighbor in Baltimore - tight streets, row houses). I still told her to wait for the police and file a report. She was burnt twice in the past when someone backed into her and admitted fault - then changed there story before (or during) discussions with their insurance agency. Seems to an insurance agency front-end damage - with no police report or witness testimony - becomes an at fault rear-end collision. That is allot of fun believe me. Warning from experience - always wait for the police!!! Phil ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2004 08:57:48 -0400 (EDT) From: "Steve.Goldstein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <E36> Tools for front pads/rotors? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> First, thanks to all who replied to my RFI about my flaky HVAC control module. I'll be trying to repair it this weekend. My mechanic gave me a practice unit so I can master the disassembly process - he said he has over a hundred of them, all dead. On to the matter at hand. I've replaced rotors on my '91 318is track car, so I have all the tools needed for _that_ job. Now it's time to do this for my '99 323is (E36) daily driver. I know the little screw is 6mm allen (changed from 5mm on E30), and the caliper slide bolts are 7mm allen (same as E30 rear). What about the bolts that hold on the calipers? Are these still 19mm (might be 17, I forget, but I've got both sizes)? Or did BMW, in its infinite wisdom, provide me cause to buy still more tools? Thanks. Steve ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2004 09:11:43 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E36> Tools for front pads/rotors? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If I remember correctly, the front bolt is going to be a 16mm (5/8 works in a pinch) the rear is a 15. Also note that torques are different for front and rear. Double check a manual, but it's roughly 90 lbs for front and 50 for rear. I stretched a set of rear bolts badly overtorquing them first time out several years back. Marc Plante E36 M3/4, 53k 2002 Audi AR E36 325i, 220k [Gone] Vienna, VA ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2004 09:03:06 -0500 From: "Weimer, Matt J." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> With the rear end in the air and clutch pedal to the floor rear wheels spin. You can grab the driveshaft and get the rotation to stop without exerting an extreme amount of force but once you let go it continues to rotate. When I installed the new master cylinder I checked over the entire linkage and found no problems. Unfortunately at this point it looks like I will be pulling the transmission again to check the splines of the input shaft. Do you also clean and polish the female splines on the clutch disc? Does anyone an alternate grease to the Sachs supplied stuff? Thanks for the suggestions. Matt Weimer Hoosier Chapter ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 19:01:02 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Clutch Frustration Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Clean splines are very important. I use valve lapping compound to smooth them. Raise the rear end. If trying to shift into gear causes the rear wheels to turn, the clutch is dragging. Also, maybe something in the pedal linkage or bracket is broken. Gary Derian ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2004 10:16:23 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Use a good wire brush and clean both the internal and external splines. Look for burrs or other snag points. Dress them with a small file. Put the valve lapping compound on the splines, and put the clutch plate on the input shaft and stroke. If you are anal you will either mark the splines so you assemble them in the same position, or rotate the clutch disk so all every internal spline is lapped to every external spline. Clean and assemble, I used a very thin coat of anti-seize on my splines. Also make sure the throwout bearing slides smoothly on the guide tube. The new bearings have a plastic slider inside and should not be lubricated. I rubbed mine with dry moly powder. If the tube is worn, get a new one. What clutch disk do you have? There should be grooves in the friction material to help disengagement. Make sure the disk is on the right way. Check for full release arm stroke. Gary Derian > With the rear end in the air and clutch pedal to the floor rear wheels > spin. > You can grab the driveshaft and get the rotation to stop without > exerting an > extreme amount of force but once you let go it continues to rotate. > > When I installed the new master cylinder I checked over the entire > linkage and found no problems. > Unfortunately at this point it looks like I will be pulling the > transmission again to check > the splines of the input shaft. > > Do you also clean and polish the female splines on the clutch disc? > > Does anyone an alternate grease to the Sachs supplied stuff? > > Thanks for the suggestions. > > Matt Weimer > Hoosier Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2004 09:39:48 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Service advice Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm trying to recall if it was mentioned on this Digest that Autohaus (Campell, Calif.) was mentioned as a great place for service. A search of the archives showed nothing for the Winchester Blvd location. Anyone recall posting the thread? -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2004 14:37:12 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Raw Gas Smell Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Besides the already-mentioned common causes, it could be a sender or pump seals. All are accessed from under the rear seat. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 16:42:30 -0600 >From: "Dave and Peg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "'UUC Digest'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Raw Gas Smell >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >I am getting a smell of gasoline every time I fill my 95 M3 Coupe. There is >no visible sign of leakage under the car and the smell goes away when the >tank goes down a little bit. I do not force fill when I put gas in it. I >run it until the pump shuts off and stop. > >Any suggestions on where to look for this? > >Dave Miller >95 M3 ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
