The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 285 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Shock Installation - Voodoo? Re: CD Changer Repair? Maint Intervals Re: Maint Intervals Re: Maint Intervals Re: Maint Intervals Re: Gloves Re: Gloves <e34> spare brake pad carrier in Boston area? Re: Gloves Re: Shock Installation - Voodoo? Re: CD Changer Repair? Spare parts Re: <E30> Clutch Frustration Re: Torque Wrenches
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 00:26:33 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Shock Installation - Voodoo? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Roger, I don't know if this is where you saw it, but the paperwork with my Bilstein Sports said to keep them right-side up for at least 24 hours before being installed/used. Brian > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf > Of rblangille > Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2004 10:35 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [UUC] Shock Installation - Voodoo? > > > Somewhere, but I cannot, for the life of me, > remember where, I read that new > shocks and struts should be fully extended for 12 > hours or something like > that before being installed on the car. Can't > remember quite why, but it > seemed to make sense at the time. > > Ring a bell with anyone? > > Roger Langille > 328ic > > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Vote for the stars of Yahoo!'s next ad campaign! http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/yahoo/votelifeengine/ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 08:28:22 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: CD Changer Repair? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Neil wrote: > Any ideas where I can send my E34 92 CD changer > (Alpine) for repair? It won't power up. Fuses are > fine. Thanks! I had the same problem with the changer in my 1993 E36. I opened the case and fiddled with the power connection to the unit at the motherboard and it came back to life...for a bit. Seems to have died again. I'm thinking Eclipse head unit for my M3 instead of a changer. $170 gets me a decent tuner and a CD/MP3 player...No more power problems. No more catridges getting belched across the trunk. Marc Plante E36 M3/4, 53k 2002 Audi AR E36 325i, 220k [Gone] Vienna, VA ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 13:04:10 -0700 From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW BMW BMW BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Maint Intervals Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> John Riganati posted a maint. interval list for his E46 then Michael Lawrence commented on it: I agree with most of John's list (and the addition of a two driving schools a year by Michael), but the two items that jump out to me as total overkill are changing spark plugs at 15,000 miles and changing synthetic gear oil every 25,000 miles. A guy with an average commute will be changing his spark plugs more than once a year and the gear oil almost every year. Has anyone ever heard of a modern spark plug in a modern engine fail at under 30,000 miles or had a diff or tranny go bad due to Red Line gear oil that didn't make it 50,000 miles? Kevin Kelly BMW CCA 50039 P.S. For air filters forget about mileage it is all about where you drive 10 miles on a logging road with super fine dust will clog an air filter, while they will last for years and thousands of miles in the city. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 09:43:31 -0400 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Maint Intervals Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Yes, but do these change intervals remain the same for rarely driven cars? I.e., my M3 is only driven about 3000-4000 miles per year. Usually to a track (or autocross or drift event) around for a couple of days & then home. I was doing 1-2 engine oil changes per year & one change of all other fluids per year (of course brake fluid is in a constant state of flux). At 50k on gear changes, oil could be in my car for more than 10 years easy! It has a shelf life of that, with all the contaminants in it? I believe E30 M3's even specify a check of the plugs at 15k. Heck, they're cheap & the cars respond SO well to them. FWIW, I let the engine oil go 11k in my 01 Saab (syn blend specified by Saab) & it came out pretty nasty. It was clear the stuff had been burned, of course, BMW's don't have a turbo to heat that stuff up that much. Lee->can afford oil, but not motors or trannies > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kevin Kelly > Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2004 16:04 > To: BMW BMW BMW BMW > Subject: [UUC] Maint Intervals > > > John Riganati posted a maint. interval list for his E46 then Michael > Lawrence commented on it: > > I agree with most of John's list (and the addition of a two > driving schools > a year by Michael), but the two items that jump out to me as > total overkill > are changing spark plugs at 15,000 miles and changing > synthetic gear oil > every 25,000 miles. A guy with an average commute will be > changing his > spark plugs more than once a year and the gear oil almost > every year. Has > anyone ever heard of a modern spark plug in a modern engine > fail at under > 30,000 miles or had a diff or tranny go bad due to Red Line > gear oil that > didn't make it 50,000 miles? > > Kevin Kelly > BMW CCA 50039 > > P.S. For air filters forget about mileage it is all about > where you drive 10 > miles on a logging road with super fine dust will clog an air > filter, while > they will last for years and thousands of miles in the city. > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > ______________________________________________________________ > ____________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of > the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 10:46:45 -0400 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'UUCDigest'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Maint Intervals Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> What about the chunks????? Well, there were no chunks per se, but the oil was not nearly as smooth as when it went in. It was burned....my whole garage now smells like I set something on fire in there.... Thanks, Lee > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Richard Dorffer > Sent: Friday, July 23, 2004 10:13 > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Cc: Robinson, Lee > Subject: Re: [UUC] Maint Intervals > > > --- "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > FWIW, I let the engine oil go 11k in my 01 Saab (syn blend > specified by > > Saab) & it came out pretty nasty. It was clear the stuff > had been burned, > > of course, BMW's don't have a turbo to heat that stuff up that much. > > You can tell very little by the color of the oil with respect > to the ability for the oil to > provide lubrication, the viscosity, remaining additives, etc. IMO. > > Regards, > > Rich > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > ______________________________________________________________ > ____________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of > the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 07:13:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Maint Intervals Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > FWIW, I let the engine oil go 11k in my 01 Saab (syn blend specified by > Saab) & it came out pretty nasty. It was clear the stuff had been burned, > of course, BMW's don't have a turbo to heat that stuff up that much. You can tell very little by the color of the oil with respect to the ability for the oil to provide lubrication, the viscosity, remaining additives, etc. IMO. Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 09:36:52 -0400 (EDT) From: Joel Gallun <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, E30 Yahoo Group <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Gloves Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Fri, 23 Jul 2004, Scott & Charlotte Miller wrote: > Please pardon the cross-posting, I'm just trying to reach as many > knowledgeable folks as possible. Last week on the UUC Digest we were > talkin' about gloves. We determined that neither latex nor nitrile is > suitable for working with brake fluid. no, that was brain fade on my part. I mis-read the chart. Both are OK for brake fluid. sorry about that. joel ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 19:01:32 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Joel Gallun" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Gloves Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Joel, thanks for clearing that up. I s'pose I could have figured that out myself, if I had read the chart. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joel Gallun" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, July 23, 2004 6:36 AM Subject: Re: [UUC] Gloves > On Fri, 23 Jul 2004, Scott & Charlotte Miller wrote: > > > Please pardon the cross-posting, I'm just trying to reach as many > > knowledgeable folks as possible. Last week on the UUC Digest we were > > talkin' about gloves. We determined that neither latex nor nitrile is > > suitable for working with brake fluid. > > no, that was brain fade on my part. I mis-read the chart. Both are OK for > brake fluid. > > sorry about that. > > joel > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 00:45:35 -0400 From: "Doug Foster" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <e34> spare brake pad carrier in Boston area? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Does anybody out there in the Boston/Worcester area have a spare front brake pad carrier for a 94 e34 540iA (non-sport)? I'm 3/4 of the way through new pads and rotors on the 540, and one of the front caliper mounting bolts broke! Part of the bolt is stuck right in the brake pad carrier. I was messing all around trying to get it out, when I realized that I could just pull the carrier completely off the assembly. I've now broken a fancy new bolt extracter trying to get it out. So, since that had created a hole part way through, I may end up drilling and tapping the hole. But, since I don't have the right M12x1.5 tap, and I would feel better with a nice non-messed with brake system, I was wondering if anybody had a spare. So, if anybody just finished a big-brake upgrade, or just replaced their calipers, and have the old one lying around, let me know... My car is motionless until this is fixed. Thanks, Doug Foster Northborough, MA ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 08:50:46 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Gloves Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Who needs gloves for brake fluid? It washes off quickly and easily with soap and water. Don't let brake fluid empty from the system as bleeding the ABS without the special tools is impossible. Fill the master cylinder to the top and seal with plastic wrap and a stiff rubber band. This will hold the fluid up in the system. A little will drip out but the system will not empty. Gary [no manicured nails] Derian > Please pardon the cross-posting, I'm just trying to reach as many > knowledgeable folks as possible. Last week on the UUC Digest we were > talkin' about gloves. We determined that neither latex nor nitrile is > suitable for working with brake fluid. I was waiting to hear what > gloves ARE suitable for working with brake fluid, but I never saw the > answer. > > Of course, I'm still working on my Rear Wheel Bearing From Hell > project. In this latest iteration, I'm removing the trailing arms so > that I can take them to Bill Arnold's shop. Bill will R&R the wheel > bearings and also install my new adjustable trailing arm bushings. > Then I'll just throw it all back in the car. "Throw", of course, is a > relative term that, in this case, involves much pushing and shoving > and wrenching and swearing and knuckle-busting, but I digress. > > The point is, the drive axles are out; the parking brake cables are > out; the ABS wheel sensors are out; the right side pad wear sensor is > out; the springs are out; and two of the four main mounting bolts > (driver's side) are busted loose and ready to be removed. Besides the > other two bolts, all that is left is to disconnect the brake lines > from the calipers and body, cap the ones on the body to keep from > draining the master cylinder and ABS unit, and then remove the arms. > And since there will be a fair amount of brake fluid draining and > dripping all over the place, I'd sure like to have a pair of just the > right gloves for the task. > > Thus my question. > > TIA, > > Scott Miller > GGC BMW CCA > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 08:46:38 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Shock Installation - Voodoo? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Considering that Bilstein front struts are made "upside down", if rear shocks should be pointy side up, front strut inserts should be pointy side down. In a monotube (DeCarbon) design, it doesn't matter as no air can get in the hydraulic section. In a twin tube design, extending the shock while upside down uncovers the foot valve and admits air into the inner tube. This can be quickly expelled by compressing the shock while upside down and extending it while right side up. Even if trapped air is allowed to remain, it will be quickly dispelled through the seals. Gary Derian > You'll probably find it on paperwork included with your shocks/struts. They > want to be kept pointy-end up for 12 hours - possibly to make sure all the > gas is in the correct place. > > > Somewhere, but I cannot, for the life of me, remember where, I read that new > shocks and struts should be fully extended for 12 hours or something like > that before being installed on the car. Can't remember quite why, but it > seemed to make sense at the time. > > Ring a bell with anyone? > > Roger Langille > 328ic ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 08:52:22 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: CD Changer Repair? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Wow! 92 CDs? Perhaps it works better with less than 90 CDs in it <grin>. Gary [no help today] Derian > Gruppe: > > Any ideas where I can send my E34 92 CD changer > (Alpine) for repair? It won't power up. Fuses are > fine. Thanks! > > Neil Deshpande ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 10:42:26 -0400 From: "Tonapi, Raju" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Spare parts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi all, Any spare part dealers to suggest? Looking for 88' 325i convertible items. > thanks! > Raju ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 09:46:40 -0500 From: "Weimer, Matt J." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Clutch Frustration Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Funny how I basically used the same procedure for the splines on the driveshaft (minus the lapping compound) but really did not think to get so anal with the input shaft. I am using a Sachs clutch disc, pressure plate and throwout bearing, the disc does have several grooves in the surface. I did not lube the throw out bearing or the guide tube and the guide tube seemed to be in very good shape. I double checked the disk was oriented properly before installation per the label on the face of the disc. I have not yet measured the release arm stroke although I have watched the slave cylinder rod travel while a helper pushed the pedal to the floor. The Bentley manual states this travel should be 20mm minimum. That seems a little low to me. In the earlier posts I forgot to add that the clutch pedal picks up really low, barely off of the firewall. Thanks for the help. Matt --------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2004 10:16:23 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Use a good wire brush and clean both the internal and external splines. Look for burrs or other snag points. Dress them with a small file. Put the valve lapping compound on the splines, and put the clutch plate on the input shaft and stroke. If you are anal you will either mark the splines so you assemble them in the same position, or rotate the clutch disk so all every internal spline is lapped to every external spline. Clean and assemble, I used a very thin coat of anti-seize on my splines. Also make sure the throwout bearing slides smoothly on the guide tube. The new bearings have a plastic slider inside and should not be lubricated. I rubbed mine with dry moly powder. If the tube is worn, get a new one. What clutch disk do you have? There should be grooves in the friction material to help disengagement. Make sure the disk is on the right way. Check for full release arm stroke. Gary Derian ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 09:52:18 -0500 From: "Weimer, Matt J." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Torque Wrenches Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dave, I have always used an inch pound wrench for low torque situations. I prefer a dial type wrench but there have been several instances with tight quarters where a click type wrench would have been handy. My wrench is an old Snap-On with a range of 0-450 in/lb and can be found on Ebay occasionally. Matt Weimer -------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2004 18:59:36 -0600 From: "Dave and Peg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'UUC Digest'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Torque Wrenches Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> What torque wrench do you use for an 18 pound torque requirement. I have been looking at 3/8" drive torque wrenches and they seem to be a very high range. One was 10 to 80 range and the other is 5 to 75 lbs. Both of those seem too high on the low end to get an accurate torque at 18 lbs. The 1/4" drive wrench was more like the range I wanted, but I would like to have 3/8" drive. Thanks Dave 95 M3 ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
