The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 286 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Gloves Re: Maint Intervals Re: Maint Intervals Re: Maint Intervals Re: Maint Intervals Re: Maint Intervals Re: Maint Intervals Re: Maint Intervals Re: CD Changer Repair? Re: Maint Intervals diagnosing ABS light on '93 E36 Cam removal without the Factory tool Re: Cam removal without the Factory tool Re: Cam removal without the Factory tool Re: Cam removal without the Factory tool
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 10:52:47 -0400 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Gloves Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Who needs gloves for brake fluid? It washes off quickly and > easily with > soap and water. Supposedly, if you have cuts, you should wear gloves to protect from poisoning. I didn't, had a couple of nice gashes & seem to have survived. > > Don't let brake fluid empty from the system as bleeding the > ABS without the > special tools is impossible. Fill the master cylinder to the > top and seal > with plastic wrap and a stiff rubber band. This will hold > the fluid up in > the system. A little will drip out but the system will not empty. Yes, learned this the hard way. I'm still going out on rainy days & cycling the ABS, & air & slight tints of blue still come out 20 qts of fluid later. I hear there's some special procedure for flushing the ABS system, but can't find anyone who knows what it is. My friend's Z06 & 95 Z28 both have bleed nipples on the ABS pump. I wonder why such "high end" cars don't have this when a Camaro does. > > Gary [no manicured nails] Derian Lee->with chewed to length nails & hangnails.......the hangnails were really killing me last night as I was chopping habanero peppers..... ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 10:53:25 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Maint Intervals Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Might be an idea, fire sale for the Saab. Mike -> -----Original Message----- -> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robinson, Lee -> Sent: Friday, July 23, 2004 10:47 AM -> To: 'UUCDigest' -> Subject: Re: [UUC] Maint Intervals -> -> -> What about the chunks????? Well, there were no chunks per -> se, but the oil was not nearly as smooth as when it went in. -> It was burned....my whole garage now smells like I set -> something on fire in there.... -> -> Thanks, -> Lee -> -> > -----Original Message----- -> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of -> Richard Dorffer -> > Sent: Friday, July 23, 2004 10:13 -> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -> > Cc: Robinson, Lee -> > Subject: Re: [UUC] Maint Intervals -> > -> > -> > --- "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: -> > > FWIW, I let the engine oil go 11k in my 01 Saab (syn blend -> > specified by -> > > Saab) & it came out pretty nasty. It was clear the stuff -> > had been burned, -> > > of course, BMW's don't have a turbo to heat that stuff -> up that much. -> > -> > You can tell very little by the color of the oil with respect -> > to the ability for the oil to -> > provide lubrication, the viscosity, remaining additives, etc. IMO. -> > -> > Regards, -> > -> > Rich -> > -> > Search the -> > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] -> > -> > -> > ______________________________________________________________ -> > ____________ -> > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of -> > the BMW CCA. -> > -> > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of -> the Ultimate -> > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . -> > http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -> > -> Search the -> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] -> -> -> _____________________________________________________________ -> _____________ -> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of -> the BMW CCA. -> -> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the -> Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 -> . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -> ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 11:25:08 -0400 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Maint Intervals Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I say deal with your questionable oil AFTER you extinguish your garage fire! Everyone has different priorities though... ;-) -Jay *********** > --- "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > What about the chunks????? Well, there were no chunks per se, but the oil > > was not nearly as smooth as when it went in. > > Oil tends to thicken as mileage increases AFAIK. Oil will never be as "smooth" as when it went > in... > > > It was burned....my whole > > garage now smells like I set something on fire in there.... > > If your whole garage smells like something was on fire, I would say you have some pretty serious > oil issues. > > Later, > > Rich ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 11:28:36 -0400 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Maint Intervals Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Been on autotrader for 3 months now.....Another friend told me that no car I was selling should require oil..... Lee > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Michael Lawrence > Sent: Friday, July 23, 2004 10:53 > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [UUC] Maint Intervals > > > Might be an idea, fire sale for the Saab. > > Mike > > -> -----Original Message----- > -> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > -> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of > Robinson, Lee > -> Sent: Friday, July 23, 2004 10:47 AM > -> To: 'UUCDigest' > -> Subject: Re: [UUC] Maint Intervals > -> > -> > -> What about the chunks????? Well, there were no chunks per > -> se, but the oil was not nearly as smooth as when it went in. > -> It was burned....my whole garage now smells like I set > -> something on fire in there.... > -> > -> Thanks, > -> Lee > -> > -> > -----Original Message----- > -> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > -> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of > -> Richard Dorffer > -> > Sent: Friday, July 23, 2004 10:13 > -> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > -> > Cc: Robinson, Lee > -> > Subject: Re: [UUC] Maint Intervals > -> > > -> > > -> > --- "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > -> > > FWIW, I let the engine oil go 11k in my 01 Saab (syn blend > -> > specified by > -> > > Saab) & it came out pretty nasty. It was clear the stuff > -> > had been burned, > -> > > of course, BMW's don't have a turbo to heat that stuff > -> up that much. > -> > > -> > You can tell very little by the color of the oil with respect > -> > to the ability for the oil to > -> > provide lubrication, the viscosity, remaining additives, > etc. IMO. > -> > > -> > Regards, > -> > > -> > Rich > -> > > -> > Search the > -> > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > -> > > -> > > -> > ______________________________________________________________ > -> > ____________ > -> > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of > -> > the BMW CCA. > -> > > -> > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of > -> the Ultimate > -> > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . > -> > http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > -> > > -> Search the > -> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > -> > -> > -> _____________________________________________________________ > -> _____________ > -> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of > -> the BMW CCA. > -> > -> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the > -> Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 > -> . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > -> > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > ______________________________________________________________ > ____________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of > the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 11:38:32 -0400 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Maint Intervals Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Do you honostly think your motor will go 10 years without > something failing > which would require internal surgery? An E30? Lmao. Just > kidding but > only an idiot would follow that list blindly knowing they had > different > circumstances. So, now yer sayin' I'm an idiot????? It went 15 years & 135k before the tranny had to come out for a clutch......Actually, of the systems in the car, the clutch/tranny is prolly overspecced enough to be pretty trouble-free. Dammit, why'd you have to say that.....knocking vigorously on wood. > > The E30 needs all the help it can get, so maybe change them > at 5k??? I > believe the poster was referring to E46's and my comments > were about E36's. It's still enough to have opened a can of whoopass on every E36 & E46 it's come up against. Yea, c'mon!<-ATL joke. > > Send the oil to be tested, you might be surprised that it is > still good or > your driving habits might be tough on the oil. You do let > the car idle for > 5 mins to cool down and no boost for 15 mins when first cranking? I do let the turbo warm up & cool down. Don't forget, I've had 7 of these silly swedish things. Actually, the new cars don't recommend it anymore (this used to be in bold print in the owner's manual).....I think the newer turbos have a different cooling system allowing the oil not to get baked in the turbo after shutdown. No, this poor can is just basically subject to the morning & afternoon crawl. When conditions allow, this poor thing is thrashed relentlessly, as any car I've ever owned. > > Mike I still have your CD's.....like a month later--drop me a line. Lee ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 11:43:34 -0400 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'UUCDigest'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Maint Intervals Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Have this buddy Tim who tracks a Z06 & Z28. He & I usually trade car working-on slavery. Use his place as he has tons more stuff than I do. So, I go to his place doing some work on one of our POS's & get there, where he's putting out a fire. See, the previous day we'd cleaned a ton of motor-top parts for his Z28 project in solvent. Well, one of these rags ended up on the floor. When I walk in, there he is standing in shorts with his welding mask up, arc welder stick in one hand, beer in the other & trying to stamp out burning rag, which was finally extinguished with said beer (wasting beer is really the crime here). I could see the inventor of OSHA turning over in his grave...... Lee > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Friday, July 23, 2004 11:25 > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [UUC] Maint Intervals > > > I say deal with your questionable oil AFTER you extinguish your garage > fire! Everyone has different priorities though... ;-) > -Jay > *********** > > --- "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > What about the chunks????? Well, there were no chunks per se, but > the oil > > > was not nearly as smooth as when it went in. > > > > Oil tends to thicken as mileage increases AFAIK. Oil will > never be as > "smooth" as when it went > > in... > > > > > It was burned....my whole > > > garage now smells like I set something on fire in there.... > > > > If your whole garage smells like something was on fire, I would say > you have some pretty serious > > oil issues. > > > > Later, > > > > Rich > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > ______________________________________________________________ > ____________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of > the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 11:46:05 -0400 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Maint Intervals Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Oil tends to thicken as mileage increases AFAIK. Oil will > never be as "smooth" as when it went > in... > > > It was burned....my whole > > garage now smells like I set something on fire in there.... > > If your whole garage smells like something was on fire, I > would say you have some pretty serious > oil issues. > > Later, > > Rich Yea, I've had some oil issues with this car before, so I'm guessing I'm doing something wrong. At one point while in Ohio over the winter, I was getting big white glops of crap. I changed the oil & it never happened again in 20k, so I'm still trying to figure that one out. Lee ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 11:00:25 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Maint Intervals Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> -> -----Original Message----- -> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robinson, Lee --> Yes, but do these change intervals remain the same for -> rarely driven cars? I.e., my M3 is only driven about -> 3000-4000 miles per year. -> At 50k on gear changes, oil could be in my car for more than -> 10 years easy! It has a shelf life of that, with all the -> contaminants in it? Do you honostly think your motor will go 10 years without something failing which would require internal surgery? An E30? Lmao. Just kidding but only an idiot would follow that list blindly knowing they had different circumstances. -> I believe E30 M3's even specify a check of the plugs at 15k. -> Heck, they're cheap & the cars respond SO well to them. The E30 needs all the help it can get, so maybe change them at 5k??? I believe the poster was referring to E46's and my comments were about E36's. -> FWIW, I let the engine oil go 11k in my 01 Saab (syn blend -> specified by -> Saab) & it came out pretty nasty. It was clear the stuff -> had been burned, of course, BMW's don't have a turbo to heat -> that stuff up that much. Send the oil to be tested, you might be surprised that it is still good or your driving habits might be tough on the oil. You do let the car idle for 5 mins to cool down and no boost for 15 mins when first cranking? Mike ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 10:01:16 -0500 From: Peter Wheeler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: CD Changer Repair? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've always been pleased with the price/speed/quality of United Radio Service out of Syracuse. http://www.unitedradio.com/ I've only used them with my dealer account, but I think that their consumer ship in flat rate is under $100. Peter On Jul 22, 2004, at 11:49 PM, Neil Deshpande wrote: Gruppe: Any ideas where I can send my E34 92 CD changer (Alpine) for repair? It won't power up. Fuses are fine. Thanks! Neil Deshpande Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 08:02:03 -0700 (PDT) From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Maint Intervals Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > What about the chunks????? Well, there were no chunks per se, but the oil > was not nearly as smooth as when it went in. Oil tends to thicken as mileage increases AFAIK. Oil will never be as "smooth" as when it went in... > It was burned....my whole > garage now smells like I set something on fire in there.... If your whole garage smells like something was on fire, I would say you have some pretty serious oil issues. Later, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 11:14:40 -0400 (EDT) From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: diagnosing ABS light on '93 E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Howdy, Our '93 325is has an ABS light illuminated on the dash... Light comes on as soon as the car is started. Two different Modis/Snap-On scanners try to read the ABS codes, then lose communication about five seconds after the codes have been read. During the latest attempt, even that wasn't reliable and the tool would report no communication from the start. One of my friends (both scanner owners are friends and pro mechanics, but not bmw specialists) thought that it was likely that the ABS computer was fried, due to the loss of communcation. I've seen on the web that there's a TSB related to an E36 ABS relay (http://member.rivernet.com.au/btaylor/BMWText/technical/ABSProblemTSBE36.html) and was going to try that just because it seems fairly cheap, but I figured I'd also post here to see if anyone has any other insights (or if there's an ITS racer who has an ABS computer that they want to give me... :-) Thanks! Mark ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 10:15:11 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "E36M3" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Cam removal without the Factory tool Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am embarking on a journey to replace the cylinder head gasket on my 95 M3 tomorrow and am going to try and do the job without the use of the special tool used to hold down the camshaft bearing caps while removing all of the bolts. I have read the procedure on the pelican parts website and it seems straighforward except for the fact that I am doing it without a helper. My question is, has anyone here been successful at removing/installing cams on an S50 US motor without using the special BMW $1500 tool? Any tips or pointers? Will I definitely ruin the camshfts if I just turn the engine so that no pistons are at TDC and then remove the camshft bearing cap bolts 1/4 turn at a time (I realise that this will take a long time)? I would appreciate any and all information regarding this issue. I have rented some of the tools from Chester Wong, but this is the one thing that he doesn't have and he needs his tools back again the following weekend so I need to finish the job this weekend. Thanks in advance for any help. Jamie Howton ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 08:25:38 -0700 From: Marco <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Cam removal without the Factory tool Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I think Brett rents out the tool. Marco Jamie Howton wrote: > I am embarking on a journey to replace the cylinder head gasket on my 95 > M3 tomorrow and am going to try and do the job without the use of the > special tool used to hold down the camshaft bearing caps while removing > all of the bolts. I have read the procedure on the pelican parts > website and it seems straighforward except for the fact that I am doing > it without a helper. My question is, has anyone here been successful at > removing/installing cams on an S50 US motor without using the special > BMW $1500 tool? Any tips or pointers? Will I definitely ruin the > camshfts if I just turn the engine so that no pistons are at TDC and > then remove the camshft bearing cap bolts 1/4 turn at a time (I realise > that this will take a long time)? I would appreciate any and all > information regarding this issue. I have rented some of the tools from > Chester Wong, but this is the one thing that he doesn't have and he > needs his tools back again the following weekend so I need to finish the > job this weekend. > > Thanks in advance for any help. > > Jamie Howton > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 11:21:47 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Cam removal without the Factory tool Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Rent from Brett Anderson. I believe the hard part is getting the VaNoS back together with the proper timing. Gary Derian > I am embarking on a journey to replace the cylinder head gasket on my 95 > M3 tomorrow and am going to try and do the job without the use of the > special tool used to hold down the camshaft bearing caps while removing > all of the bolts. I have read the procedure on the pelican parts > website and it seems straighforward except for the fact that I am doing > it without a helper. My question is, has anyone here been successful at > removing/installing cams on an S50 US motor without using the special > BMW $1500 tool? Any tips or pointers? Will I definitely ruin the > camshfts if I just turn the engine so that no pistons are at TDC and > then remove the camshft bearing cap bolts 1/4 turn at a time (I realise > that this will take a long time)? I would appreciate any and all > information regarding this issue. I have rented some of the tools from > Chester Wong, but this is the one thing that he doesn't have and he > needs his tools back again the following weekend so I need to finish the > job this weekend. > > Thanks in advance for any help. > > Jamie Howton > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2004 11:43:53 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Cam removal without the Factory tool Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> More info would have helped when you emailed me Jamie. You don't need to remove the cams to change the head gasket. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jamie Howton > Sent: Friday, July 23, 2004 11:15 AM > To: E36M3; [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [UUC] Cam removal without the Factory tool > > > I am embarking on a journey to replace the cylinder head gasket on my 95 > M3 tomorrow and am going to try and do the job without the use of the > special tool used to hold down the camshaft bearing caps while removing > all of the bolts. I have read the procedure on the pelican parts > website and it seems straighforward except for the fact that I am doing > it without a helper. My question is, has anyone here been successful at > removing/installing cams on an S50 US motor without using the special > BMW $1500 tool? Any tips or pointers? Will I definitely ruin the > camshfts if I just turn the engine so that no pistons are at TDC and > then remove the camshft bearing cap bolts 1/4 turn at a time (I realise > that this will take a long time)? I would appreciate any and all > information regarding this issue. I have rented some of the tools from > Chester Wong, but this is the one thing that he doesn't have and he > needs his tools back again the following weekend so I need to finish the > job this weekend. > > Thanks in advance for any help. > > Jamie Howton --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.725 / Virus Database: 480 - Release Date: 7/19/2004 ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
