The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 605 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: E36 Caliper Pin Upgrade Query
  New guy E46
  New guy E46
  FS: 1994 Dinan 325i, Blk/blk, 5speed, leather, $10k
  E46 Tires
  Re: New guy E46 / tire selection
  Re: Where to buy a DME for '97 540i 6 speed?
  Re: '95 M3 Automatic Black Gray 65K miles
  Re: '95 M3 Automatic Black Gray 65K miles
  Re: '95 M3 Automatic Black Gray 65K miles
  Re: '95 M3 Automatic Black Gray 65K miles
  Re: '95 M3 Automatic Black Gray 65K miles
  Re: new e90 3 series
  Re: E36 Caliper Pin Upgrade Query
  Wheel Bearing Tools

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Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 10:51:05 -0500
From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E36 Caliper Pin Upgrade Query
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

The concept is that the floating caliper alignment is not thrown off by worn
or flexing OE guide bushings.

The reality witht the brass bushings is "mixed results".  While it's true
they certainly are stiffer and do what they are supposed to do under ideal
conditions, in one of the cars we helped prep last season, they were fidgety
to keep working right.  The key is that they must always be lubricated and
re-lubricated as they have no boot to retain grease like the OE bushings.
If they get dry, they bind and the situation with brake feel is worse than
worn OE bushings.  If they are run dry too long, they wear - again, a
situation worse than worn OE bushings.  Despite a complete rebuild with new
pins, bushings, and re-greasing before every event, in the end they
continued to create their own set of issues.

Again, this is with this particular car... YMMV.  Many people seem to have
much better luck and swear by them.  Heck, it's racing... you use what works
for you.

- Rob


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [UUC] E36 Caliper Pin Upgrade Query


> Considering the pins only keep the calipers from falling off, and don't
take
> part in any braking action, what is the benefit of brass bushings?
>
> Gary Derian


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 10:57:54 -0500
From: "Della Barba, Joe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: New guy E46
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Any E46 drivers on here?

Joe Della Barba
2000 323iT
1993 MR2 MKII
1997 Avalon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 08:59:03 -0800
From: Tom Kosmalski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: New guy E46
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Yup, at least one.  I've got an 04 325iT, and am brand new to the 
brand, and having fun deciding what to do first in terms of fun 
upgrades (tires, wheels, shocks, exhaust, short shift, cold air intake 
are all on the "possibles" list!).

Tom Kosmalski
Hood River, OR
04 325iT
Lotsa Bikes


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 08:04:43 -0800
From: Brian Ghidinelli <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: FS: 1994 Dinan 325i, Blk/blk, 5speed, leather, $10k
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Here's my entry into the "Best BMW for $10k":

I'm selling my E36 "occasional driver" since purchasing a tow vehicle 
recently.  I love this car but the reality of living in San Francisco 
dictates the sale.  A few specs:

* An original "Dinan 3" badged by Dinan - this includes suspension, 
chip, intake and exhaust.
* Black on black leather
* 116k miles but looks and drives more like 80k
* Sunroof
* Staggered 17" BMW Motorsport double spoke II wheels
* Tinted windows
* Sport package (includes the recaro sport seats)
* Premium sound with factory cd changer plus an extra amp and a set of 
JL Audio 8" Stealthboxes
* X brace
* 5-speed
* New clutch at 110k
* Tires have all been done in the last ~8k miles or so

I would drive this car anywhere at any time - it needs nothing.  No 
accidents and a clean carfax.  The car is sportier like an M3 but has 4 
doors and is cheap to insure; the best of both worlds.  The full 
description plus pics:

<http://www.craigslist.org/sfc/car/65216661.html>

I have a bunch more (and high-res) pics for those who are interested. 
Thanks,


Brian

-- 
brian ghidinelli  >  principal  >  http://www.MotorsportReg.com
online registration and payment for your track or auto-x events

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 09:14:02 -0800
From: Tom Kosmalski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: E46 Tires
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Well, I thought I had finally decided on a tire upgrade for my 325iT.  
Stock is 205/55R16 Mich MXV4 Energy, and I had decided to go with 
225/50R16 Bridgestone Potenzas, primarily based on the input from Gary 
D and others on this list (and not wanting to spend the coin on 17-inch 
wheels).

So.....I finally found a tire shop offering a reasonable price on the 
tires and a reasonable trade on my fairly fresh Michelins.

But....the tire guy is really trying to steer me towards a Goodyear 
tire called Assurance Triple Tread.

I looked these up on the Tire Rack website, and they are rated higher 
numerically than the Bridgestone RE950s in every category, but they are 
classified as simply an All Season tire, while the RE950s are a 
"Performance" All Season.  I suspect it may be a mistake to compare the 
tires numerical ratings, since they are in two different categories.

Anyone out there have any knowledge or thoughts on how these two tires 
would compare?

Thanks!

Tom Kosmalski
Hood River, OR


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 12:41:50 -0500
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: New guy E46 / tire selection
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I don't have first-hand knowledge of either tire or your guy.  My first
guess is that your tire guy makes a better margin on the Goodyears.  
- N. Jay
(my advice may be worth what you paid for it)


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 10:07:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Where to buy a DME for '97 540i 6 speed?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Evan,
I haven't seen any responses, so I'll take a shot.

-----Original Message-----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>Well, it seems as though my '97 540i (105K miles) has suffered the dealer's 
>mantra "they all do that" catastrophic domino melt down. The general 
>consensus is that the famous leaky valve covers have done their job once 
>again by gradually filling up the wells w/ oil and causing the coils to 
>short 

Sounds plausible up to this point.

>causing misfiring enough to slowly destroy the O2 sensors taking the 
>cat w/ them

Misfire would trigger a CEL long before doing any serious damage to the cats 
and, unless I'm overlooking something, wouldn't do any harm to the O2 sensors.  
That's what the CEL is there for - to protect the cats.  Unless you've been 
driving around ignoring the CE Light it seems unlikely to be related, 
especially considering you mentioned that you've already replaced the cats 
several times.  

>and just as an added parting gift frying the DME as it does 
>contortions trying to figure out what the F$&K it's suppose to compensate. 

I don't buy this at all.  The DME doesn't experience any physical stress.  If a 
sensor input is out of range beyond it's ability to compensate for it sets a CE 
code, period.  This is part of it's normal operation and doesn't cause it to do 
any additional processing or otherwise stress the hardware.   
What may be possible is that shorting out a coil cooks one of the circuits in 
the DME, after all the secondary voltage is probably 30-40,000 volts.  It 
wouldn't be very good design not to isolate the DME from such a possibility, 
but I wouldn't put it past BMW.

<snipped>
>So, I would like to know anyone that's BTDT and where to find a DME 
>for under a grand, not to mention the other parts. 

try http://www.car-part.com they have parts listings from salvage yards all 
over the country.

>Programa can't help 
>because this early model doesn't have the "ports" that the later models '98 
>on have. 

I'm not sure what you mean by that.  Is the port required to re-code the DME? 
If you get the correct DME from the same year and model you may be able to 
simply plug it in, although I don't know the details of the '97 DME.  There may 
be anti-theft, etc. that needs to be coded before it will run.  In any case if 
you get the right piece of hardware a BMW dealer should be able to flash it 
with the correct program.

>Just a parting thought here, but if the DME's failure is somehow a 
>loose or broken solder joint wouldn't it be worth a try to re solder every 
>thing on the board or am I way off base? 

Although broken solder joints have been known to happen, it would be a pretty 
odd coincidence.  If the DME was actually damaged from a voltage spike, etc. 
from the bad coils it would be due to a burned component, not a solder joint.  
If you open up the DME it might be obvious.  

>The way I look at it is that if I 
>can't use the current DME and no body can repair it what harm would it do 
>to try an fortify all of the soldering. I know I'm really reaching, but at 
>a $1000 replacement...........?

Like I said, the solder joints are unlikely to be the problem, but if there's a 
component that's obviously damaged it might be possible to replace.

Hope this helps,
Brian
'94 325ic




------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 10:48:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: '95 M3 Automatic Black Gray 65K miles
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I thought only the 96+ M3s came in an auto...

Brian
95 M3 5sp

--- Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> New tires always go on the rear.
> Gary Derian
> 
> > Speaking of M3s for sale I'd like to sell a 65K
> Mile, '95 Automatic Black 
> > w/ Gray, alarm, brand new front tires 2 rears so
> so, Very very good 
> > condition inside and out. All original no track or
> DE schools, driven by 
> > my buddy's daughter to college. All service up to
> date. Nothing wrong or 
> > needed. Need to sell. Nice Southern car no rust
> anywhere. $12500. Pix go 
> > to:
> >
> >
>
http://www.roadfly.org/bmw/classifieds/cars/detview.php?view=30381
> >
> > Evan
> 
> Search the
>
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
> 
> 
>
__________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast,
> founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and
> home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> 


                
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site!
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/ 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 11:14:28 -0800 (PST)
From: "Jim Bassett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: '95 M3 Automatic Black Gray 65K miles
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On Thu, March 31, 2005 10:48 am, Brian Ruiz said:
> I thought only the 96+ M3s came in an auto...

You thought wrong. :-)

Jim Bassett


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 11:24:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: '95 M3 Automatic Black Gray 65K miles
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

No, there were some 95 M3s with automatics (and luxury package even).

Regards,

Rich

--- Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I thought only the 96+ M3s came in an auto...
> 
> Brian
> 95 M3 5sp

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 11:51:13 -0800
From: Mark Gold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: '95 M3 Automatic Black Gray 65K miles
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

But if the tires are staggered in size then that would be not  
necessarily be applicable.  If the fronts are worn out, you replace  
them, right?

On Mar 31, 2005, at 6:56 AM, Gary Derian wrote:

> New tires go on the rear even on FWD.  You want the better traction at  
> the rear, so that the rear end stays behind the front.
> Gary Derian
>
>
>> What if they did the trannie swap and converted it to front wheel  
>> drive at the same time?
>> <g>
>> Eric-->lurking
>>
>>> New tires always go on the rear.
>>> Gary Derian
>
> Search the  
> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> ___
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW  
> CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
>
Sincerely,

Mark Gold
Sacramento Chapter BMWCCA
916-852-6533 (home)
916-743-7153 (cell)
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 17:48:41 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mark Gold" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: '95 M3 Automatic Black Gray 65K miles
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Well, you are limited then.  Generally BMWs wear out the rear tires first. 
If you are in a situation where the rears are nearly worn, and the fronts 
are all the way worn, you should buy 4 tires.  If the front tires have more 
tread than the rear tires, you will have a dangerous condition.

Honestly, there is some leeway, but there is no way to reasonably describe 
it in a consistent manner,  so the only recommendation is to put new tires 
on the rear.
Gary Derian



> But if the tires are staggered in size then that would be not  necessarily 
> be applicable.  If the fronts are worn out, you replace  them, right?
>
> On Mar 31, 2005, at 6:56 AM, Gary Derian wrote:
>
>> New tires go on the rear even on FWD.  You want the better traction at 
>> the rear, so that the rear end stays behind the front.
>> Gary Derian



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 12:50:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: new e90 3 series
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


-----Original Message-----
From: lieb923 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

<snipped>
Very nice looking car. Seems larger than the e46 but nicely proportioned. 
</snipped>

It *is* larger than the E46.  According to AutoWeek it's 2 inches longer and 3 
inches wider.
I don't have the specs handy, but I believe it and possibly the E46 as well, is 
close to if not larger than some of the older 5-series (maybe the E34?).  
There's a reason BMW is introducing a 1-series, to fill the niche the 3-series 
used to before it morphed into something else.

Brian
'94 325ic




------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 17:00:18 -0500
From: "Bailey Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E36 Caliper Pin Upgrade Query
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Thanks to all who responded. I've decided to follow Brett's advice and
simply replace the guide bushings.

Bailey Taylor
1995 318ti Club Sport
1997 528iA
1999 Wrangler Sahara Light Campaign Assault Vehicle
Scooter yet to be decided-lookin' at a K75S


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 19:40:45 -0500
From: "Andy Messer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Wheel Bearing Tools
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I recommend the factory tool.  IIRC, you can buy the the cups individually
for the specific vehicle application.
I believe the factory tool is quite reasonable from dealers offering CCA
discounts, in the low-mid hundred dollar range.  Just make sure you get the
later version of the tool.  There must have been an update at some point, as
early E30s had a smaller outer diameter bearing race.  The early cups are an
interference fit to the later wheel bearings, as was the case with my 10/87
build date iX.  Machining a millimeter or two from the ID of the cup was the
easy fix.
 
Alternatively, you could rent it from Brett.

Andy
88iX


Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 08:59:27 -0500
From: Matthew Twigg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC <[email protected]>
Subject: Wheel Bearing Tools
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Does anyone have any recommendations on Wheel Bearing Tools?
I need to do both rears on my E30 and I expect to do the fronts
shortly thereafter.
As I have recently acquired an E46 I thought it would be worthwhile to
purchase my own tool.
The tool I see most often is the SiR puller.
Any feelings about this tool?
Others?

TIA
-- 
Matt Twigg
1991 325iX
2002 330i
Boston BMW CCA


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