The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 602 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: E46 M3 HVAC Query BMW US Air Force Official Chase Car Where to buy a DME for '97 540i 6 speed? Handbrake noise Re: Handbrake noise Re: Handbrake noise Re: Handbrake noise Re: Handbrake noise Premature inside wear rear right tire Re: Premature inside wear rear right tire Re: Premature inside wear rear right tire Re: Premature inside wear rear right tire Re: Premature inside wear rear right tire Re: Premature inside wear rear right tire Need Advice- E34 Auto Transmission
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 15:21:15 -0500 From: Bill Graves <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: E46 M3 HVAC Query Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> All - My 2002 M3 coupe came with a handy "feature" that automatically turns on the Rear Defrost whenever the temp drops below 37 degrees - or just plain turns it on as its started when the temp is <37. As this car is garaged, it is totally unnecessary and I would like to return this "semi-automatic" feature to full manual. The dealer says that they have no control over this. I tend to think its just a software bit flip - have any of you seen a solution to this? Many thanks! - Bill ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 16:37:33 -0500 From: "Ryan and Dee Dee Brenneman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: BMW US Air Force Official Chase Car Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gruppe About an article in Air and Space magazine on the U2 spyplane that is still in inventory with the Air Force a reader writes in about his memories of the aircraft. A partial quote follows "From the pilot's perspective the U2 is a straightforward airplane with cable connected control surfaces, a large engine, and a very high aspect ratio wing. Lightly loaded she will climb like a homesick angel. It is the only tail dragger in the US Air Force inventory and though it has bicycle gear, is flown much like any other conventional-gear(tail dragger for the non-aviation buffs) airplane. Ideally, landings are made at a full stall onto the runway. The pilot cannot see the runway in the flare(the pull up just before the wheels touch down) due to both the nose-high attitude and the pressure suit that he or she wears. During landing, a high performance car is driven by a second U2 pilot behind the airplane down the runway in order to give(by radio) the pilot his height above the runway until touchdown. Where I was a 7-series BMW was used." I am sure there are some neat pictures of this somewhere. Wonder what BMW would make of this use of their top of the line sedan. Oh well just something neat. Ryan ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 16:36:15 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>, E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Where to buy a DME for '97 540i 6 speed? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Another question comes to mind. I was told that you can't just swap the original DME w/ a donor DME. Isn't the DME programmed for my car only? Can that code be cut and pasted from my original unit into another DME if I can find one? TIA Evan PS I need to sell my '95 M3 Automatic w/ 65K miles so I can fix the 540i. Black w/ gray, daughter driven, Daddy paid for! Priced for immediate sell ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 19:41:09 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Handbrake noise Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi, all. I left the parking brake engaged for 2-3 weeks when my car wasn't in use. When I drove it again, there was a rhythmic, wheel speed-related noise from the rear of the car. I pulled over to the side of the road, pulled the handbrake up hard, and then released it and pushed it back down as far as it would go, and the noise went away and didn't return for the rest of my short drive. However, I doubt this is a lasting solution, so I'm looking for advice on what the problem is and how to fix it. Also, the steering chirps loudly at full lock in either direction. The steering rack is fairly new and there's plenty of fluid in the reservoir. I don't remember it doing this before. Thanks in advance for any advice. -Mike Kozitka ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 20:53:39 -0500 From: "Michael Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Handbrake noise Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Probably rust in the brake drum-normal-not a problem. Ever notice that your brakes make noise the first couple times you apply them when the car has been sitting overnight in the rain or humid weather? MikeG ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Hi, all. I left the parking brake engaged for 2-3 weeks when my car > wasn't in use. When I drove it again, there was a rhythmic, wheel > speed-related noise from the rear of the car. I pulled over to the side > of the road, pulled the handbrake up hard, and then released it and pushed > it back down as far as it would go, and the noise went away and didn't > return for the rest of my short drive. However, I doubt this is a lasting > solution, so I'm looking for advice on what the problem is and how to fix > it. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 20:53:24 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Handbrake noise Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At full lock, you are stalling the system at max pressure. That usually causes the belt to slip. Gary Derian > Hi, all. I left the parking brake engaged for 2-3 weeks when my car > wasn't in use. When I drove it again, there was a rhythmic, wheel > speed-related noise from the rear of the car. I pulled over to the side > of the road, pulled the handbrake up hard, and then released it and pushed > it back down as far as it would go, and the noise went away and didn't > return for the rest of my short drive. However, I doubt this is a lasting > solution, so I'm looking for advice on what the problem is and how to fix > it. > > Also, the steering chirps loudly at full lock in either direction. The > steering rack is fairly new and there's plenty of fluid in the reservoir. > I don't remember it doing this before. > > Thanks in advance for any advice. > > -Mike Kozitka > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 19:45:39 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Handbrake noise Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Oops! I probably should have mentioned that the car is an '87 325iC. -MK- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 17:30:50 -0800 (PST) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Handbrake noise Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey Mike, About your power steering...is it a loud whiny type noise, more of a short-lived lower pitch squeak, or a high pitch noise, screechy? I've noticed when I turn the wheel fast on my 95 M3 (such as when parallel parking) there is a loud noise, more like a whiny squeak. I haven't yet checked the fluid yet though, but I assume it is okay. Maybe the belt is wearing out/stretching and slipping under situations where the pump needs to pump hard (i.e. when the wheel is turned fast)? Brian --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Hi, all. I left the parking brake engaged for 2-3 > weeks when my car wasn't in use. When I drove it > again, there was a rhythmic, wheel speed-related > noise from the rear of the car. I pulled over to > the side of the road, pulled the handbrake up hard, > and then released it and pushed it back down as far > as it would go, and the noise went away and didn't > return for the rest of my short drive. However, I > doubt this is a lasting solution, so I'm looking for > advice on what the problem is and how to fix it. > > Also, the steering chirps loudly at full lock in > either direction. The steering rack is fairly new > and there's plenty of fluid in the reservoir. I > don't remember it doing this before. > > Thanks in advance for any advice. > > -Mike Kozitka > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site! http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 20:50:27 -0500 From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Premature inside wear rear right tire Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Tires: 235/40/17 RA1 Car: 1996 318ti (with 2.8L) I'm running the RA1s strictly on the track. I'm noticing my right rear inside is wearing prematurely. I try to flip them and rotate to even out the wear. But the right rear just gets worn quicker than the left. My street tires seem to be fine. The do wear on the insides but the wear is even. I had my independent check out out my subframe bushings. They are probably 200K miles old. The left side is ok but the right is worn. Would warn subframe bushings cause this symptom? I have new bushings and trailing arm bushings from Ireland ready to be installed. I need to replace the worn tire but would like to know that the bushing is causing the wear. Otherwise I'd like to replacing whatever else might be bad before replacing the tire. -- ...steven ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 21:14:38 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]>, "Steven Schlossman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Premature inside wear rear right tire Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The subframe bushing steers both rear tires, not just one. How are the trailing arm bushings? I'd guess that in street use, you stress the suspension much less and don't cause the misalignment. Gary Derian > Tires: 235/40/17 RA1 > Car: 1996 318ti (with 2.8L) > > I'm running the RA1s strictly on the track. > I'm noticing my right rear inside is wearing prematurely. > I try to flip them and rotate to even out the wear. > But the right rear just gets worn quicker than the left. > My street tires seem to be fine. > The do wear on the insides but the wear is even. > I had my independent check out out my subframe bushings. They are probably > 200K miles old. The left side is ok but the right is worn. Would warn > subframe bushings cause this symptom? > > I have new bushings and trailing arm bushings from Ireland ready to be > installed. I need to replace the worn tire but would like to know that the > bushing is causing the wear. Otherwise I'd like to replacing whatever else > might be bad before replacing the tire. > -- > ...steven ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 21:37:38 -0500 From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Premature inside wear rear right tire Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 9:14 PM -0500 3/29/05, Gary Derian wrote: >The subframe bushing steers both rear tires, not just one. How are >the trailing arm bushings? I'd guess that in street use, you stress >the suspension much less and don't cause the misalignment. Old. They are getting replaced too. Along with everything else that is rubber back there. -- ...steven ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 18:46:43 -0800 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: Premature inside wear rear right tire Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Have you had the alignment measured? Too much toe out can cause excess inner treadblock wear, even if the camber is not excessive. Sitting static at rest won't show how much the suspension could be shifting on worn bushings under load. The trailing arm suspensions are more sensitive to this since they toe out as the can leans outward to that side moreso than than the Z link suspensions. Its a great effect if you want a point and shoot autocrossa car, not good for tire wear. With as much more power than stock as you're putting to the right rear, if you still have stock springs, you could be compressing the suspension sufficiently to cause the excess toe on the right rear that would prematurely wear out the inside of the tire. On a hard driven car, by 50k miles the rear subframe mounts have been sufficiently fatigued that they could be shifting a cm or more under hard loads. The difference in road feel between worn stock rear subframe bushings and hard aftermarket ones is like running on the sidewalk versus jogging on the beach. hth, Barry Steven Schlossman wrote: > Tires: 235/40/17 RA1 Car: 1996 318ti (with 2.8L) > I'm running the RA1s strictly on the track. > I'm noticing my right rear inside is wearing prematurely. I try to > flip them and rotate to even out the wear. > But the right rear just gets worn quicker than the left. My street > tires seem to be fine. > The do wear on the insides but the wear is even. I had my independent > check out out my subframe bushings. They are probably 200K miles old. > The left side is ok but the right is worn. Would warn subframe > bushings cause this symptom? I have new bushings and trailing arm > bushings from Ireland ready to be installed. I need to replace the > worn tire but would like to know that the bushing is causing the wear. > Otherwise I'd like to replacing whatever else might be bad before > replacing the tire. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 22:00:34 -0500 From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: ///uucdigest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Premature inside wear rear right tire Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 6:46 PM -0800 3/29/05, JKerouac wrote: > Have you had the alignment measured? I hadn't thought about that. I'll get the alignment checked before replacing my tire. The rear suspension is all stock except for 323ti springs that are 100K miles old. The Koni adjustables must have 180K miles on them. I have a feeling I am going down a slippery slope of huge expenses. -- ...steven ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 19:25:38 -0800 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: ///uucdigest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Premature inside wear rear right tire Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Steve, My experiences with post 1980's Konis has been very good. My current E36 has 110k miles on them, and I turned them up about 1/4 turn to bring them back to about what I remember the stiffness was when they were new. On the rear I judged how much to adjust by how slowly the shock re-extended itself from full compression when disconnected from the trailing arm. With factory springs, they hold up well, little or no sag. On the '97 at 110k miles there's no sag, other than a bit of front upper strut mount fatigue, the ride heights are still the same. What could be replaced along with the rear bushings are the differential hanger and upper subframe mounts. Offset control arm bushings, factory crash bolts, and 96-99 //M3 upper strut mounts will combine to give a nice reactive front suspension without risking excess front tire wear that more agressive front suspension geometries can cause. Btw, on the ti you may find better ride and handling with 245/45x16 tires on 16x8 wheels than the 235/40x17 will give. The 16s cost less to replace than the 17's, even if you do wear them out quickly. good luck, Barry Steven Schlossman wrote: > At 6:46 PM -0800 3/29/05, JKerouac wrote: > >> Have you had the alignment measured? > > I hadn't thought about that. I'll get the alignment checked before > replacing my tire. The rear suspension is all stock except for 323ti > springs that are 100K miles old. The Koni adjustables must have 180K > miles on them. I have a feeling I am going down a slippery slope of > huge expenses. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 21:27:57 -0500 From: "jaykenty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Need Advice- E34 Auto Transmission Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've had a '94 E34 525iTA for a few months and overall I am very happy with it. My only issue is a "hunting" transmission. When the car is accelerating, upshifting at light-medium throttle, the transmission seems to have difficulty getting into top gear (4), without several cycles back and forth between 3rd and 4th. Sometimes I stop this madness by using the accelerator kickdown to put it out of its misery- not exactly an elegant solution. This same hunting occurs when holding the throttle steady in 4th, while increasing load on the engine, for example climbing a hill. The 4-3 downshift occurs, but it's more like 4-3-4-3-4...eventually it stops if I back off the throttle and let the car settle in at the new speed. The dealer advises that this transmission can't be reprogrammed, since it uses a chip. They found the fluid a bit low due to a leaking pan gasket- had it fixed and filled with new fluid, but there is no discernible difference in the hunting. They have no other suggestions. This is my first BMW automatic, so I have no idea if this is common behavior or not. I've driven other autos and did not like their lack of driveability, but not to this extent. I wouldn't expect A BMW to behave this way unless there is some kind of problem. But what? Does anyone have any ideas on the cause and the fix? This can't be good for the transmission. Oh, also, I note that the engine revs don't seem to change during the hunting. As a manual transmission guy, I don't understand how this could happen. Does this make sense? Thanks, in advance, for your help, Jay Kenty North Kingstown, RI '94 E34 525iTA '97 E36 M3 '01 E39 525i stick ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
