The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 611 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  E39 Programming
  Re: E39 Programming
  E36 parts for sale
  Cleaved V10
  Re: Cleaved V10
  Re: Cleaved V10
  Re: Cleaved V10
  Re: Cleaved V10
  E36 M3 knock sensor
  Re: <E36> SRS light
  Re: <E36> ABS fault
  Re: <E36> ABS fault
  Re: Azenis Sport Replacement
  Re: <E36> ABS fault
  gas smell - 95 M3

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 19:57:29 -0500
From: "Dave Swingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: E39 Programming
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Is there any way to change the owner programming on a 2002 E39 short of a
visit to the MODIC-man at the dealer? Specifically I want to turn off the
"feature" that locks the doors at 5 mph and turn the door lock chirp back
on.

If not, what is the customary dealer charge for such things?

Dave Swingle   2002 530i


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 07:33:47 -0500
From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Dave Swingle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: E39 Programming
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I am pretty sure that the only way to do it is with MODIC.  I think
that Motorwerks and Patrick charge somewhere around $125 per hour,
don't know about Anderson.  Sorry it isn't better news.

-- 
Jamie Howton
2000 M5
1995 M3
Hampshire, IL

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 20:54:08 -0400
From: Rob Verenna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected], E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: E36 parts for sale
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Everything is FREE.  Pick-up near Pittsburgh, PA or you pay shipping.

All parts are from a 1994 325i (four door).

* Rear Seat - bench, non-folding, two pieces (seat back and seat bottom)
* Rear door panels - two-tone light and dark gray
* Driver's door window glass - non-tinted, perfect shape
* Factory Radio  (no radio code, you'll have to call the dealer)
* Passenger side airbag cover
* Passenger side sun visor
* Seat belt, middle rear seat - both belt & latch pieces
* Two window switches
* Hazard button
* Emergency brake boot - black 'leather', small tear (~1/4")
* Windshield wiper stalk
* Turn signal stalk
* Four factory wheel center caps for BBS-style 15" wheels
* Belt tensioner pulley **brand new** - not sure which one, pn 11 28 1 
748 131
* Fog light bracket (bought for '95 M3) **brand new** - I think it's for 
the left side, pn 518.01.262.30


- rob


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 18:16:07 -0700
From: Tom Kosmalski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Cleaved V10
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

snip:  Cut in half it would make a potent 5 cyl, 250hp or so?  Any 
rumors if BMW is considering it or is this just a load of bull?<groan>
Barry

Boy, I don't know about that one.  Last time I remember one of the 
high-end brands cutting an engine in half was when Porsche did it to 
the 928 V8 to make the 4-cylinder for the 944.  I loved that car and 
that engine during its time, but the buying public sure snubbed it!

Tom K.
Hood River, OR


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 07:59:47 -0500
From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Tom Kosmalski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Cleaved V10
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

<SNIP>
> Boy, I don't know about that one.  Last time I remember one of the
> high-end brands cutting an engine in half was when Porsche did it to
> the 928 V8 to make the 4-cylinder for the 944.  I loved that car and
> that engine during its time, but the buying public sure snubbed it!

Me too, I had 3 928s before I bought my 95 M3.  The cars had some
definate quirks with very unforgiving maintenance requirements (like a
re-tension of the timing belt every 15K miles), but I loved every
minute I spent in mine.  I don't think I have had a car with the same
blend of performance and luxury until I bought my M5.  BTW, the first
use of the sliced in half 928 engine was the 924 in 1977.  Porsche
developed the 928 first as a replacement for the 911, the 924 was
rushed through as a development project for Audi.  Audi backed out so
Porsche sold it as the 924.  The 928 was released a year later in
Europe and in 1979 here.  The 928 had a large number of technological
advances (variable resonance intake to name but one) but a lot of old
technology was carried forward up to 1995 such as vacuum operated
heater controls.  I really like my M5 though...

-- 
Jamie Howton
2000 M5
1995 M3
Hampshire, IL

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 09:11:54 -0400
From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Cleaved V10
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Jamie wrote:

>BTW, the first use of the sliced in half 928 engine was the 924 in 1977.
Porsche developed the 928 first as a replacement for the 911, the 924 was
rushed through as a development project for Audi.  Audi backed out so
Porsche sold it as the 924.  The 928 was released a year later in Europe and
in 1979 here.  
_________________

Just to clarify, the 928 V-8 was indeed cleaved in half to make an inline
four cylinder engine, but that was not installed in the original 924.  The
first 924 had a 2 liter VW engine.  Indeed, almost the entire car was built
out of VW/Audi Group parts, from the Audi 100, VW Golf, Scirocco, and, yes,
Super Beetle, I believe.  Only when the 944 debuted did it have a "real"
Porsche motor, the aforementioned half 928 V-8.  N.B., this same motor DID
go into a 924, but not until 1987, when the 924S came out, which was
basically a 944 with the 924 body.

Vty,

--Dennis





.




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 09:48:51 -0400
From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Cleaved V10
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Let's not let the mists of time color everything all rosy... the 944 was a
decent car in _spite_ of itself and it's kludged-together underpinnings.
That 4-cylinder was neither a paragon of power nor reliability until the
very latest versions, where the development required to make it worthwhile
resulted in the largest 4-cylinder fitted to a modern car, and the help of
Mitsubishi counter-rotating balance shafts (also licensed by Chrysler for
their own 2.5) to make it come anywhere near the concept of "smooth".

As a younger pup, I remember the R&T article comparing the 944 to the
2nd-gen RX-7 around 1989 or so.  Without any significant concessions of
"cheapness" inside or out, the RX-7 was the equal or superior to the 944,
and at this point is still retaining a greater percentage of initial cost in
resale value.  Thus, I bought one back then.  And then two more.  All of
that, of course, before I caught the Bimmer sickness.

Don't get me wrong, I like Porsches... and I'm glad to see they finally
learned from the lessons of the 914 and the 944 not to make a joke of the
Boxster, that car is what a "budget Porsche" should be and should have been.

As for the "cleaved V10", what would be the point?  BMW is the 6-cylinder
company that also makes other nice motors.  The same technology applied to a
6-cylinder (or, if there was engineering expenses to be saved, a "cleaved
V12"), would make much more sense from a functionality and marketing factor.
Audi's ad campaign of "the economy of a 4 with the power of a 6" impressed
very few at the time.  Of course, more cylinders is not always the answer;
just as Audi was floundering with that ad campaign in the late '80s, Toyota
was busy with their own V6 release in the Camry - and the
marketing-susceptible American public never noticed that Toyota's V6
literally had "the economy of a 6 with the power of a 4".

I still blame Nader.  His casket should be a 1981 Cavalier.

- Rob


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Kosmalski" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [UUC] Cleaved V10


> Boy, I don't know about that one.  Last time I remember one of the
> high-end brands cutting an engine in half was when Porsche did it to
> the 928 V8 to make the 4-cylinder for the 944.  I loved that car and
> that engine during its time, but the buying public sure snubbed it!
>
> Tom K.
> Hood River, OR


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 08:49:02 -0500
From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Cleaved V10
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I used to have a 924 and I can testify that there was no Porsche motor
in it :-) It was a good-looking, good-handling slug.

Malcolm
'98 328i
'88 M5
x-'77.5 924
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dennis Liu
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2005 8:12 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [UUC] Cleaved V10

Jamie wrote:

>BTW, the first use of the sliced in half 928 engine was the 924 in
1977.
Porsche developed the 928 first as a replacement for the 911, the 924
was
rushed through as a development project for Audi.  Audi backed out so
Porsche sold it as the 924.  The 928 was released a year later in Europe
and
in 1979 here.  
_________________

Just to clarify, the 928 V-8 was indeed cleaved in half to make an
inline
four cylinder engine, but that was not installed in the original 924.
The
first 924 had a 2 liter VW engine.  Indeed, almost the entire car was
built
out of VW/Audi Group parts, from the Audi 100, VW Golf, Scirocco, and,
yes,
Super Beetle, I believe.  Only when the 944 debuted did it have a "real"
Porsche motor, the aforementioned half 928 V-8.  N.B., this same motor
DID
go into a 924, but not until 1987, when the 924S came out, which was
basically a 944 with the 924 body.

Vty,

--Dennis





.



Search the
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]


________________________________________________________________________
__
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW
CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 19:38:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: E36 M3 knock sensor
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hey all,

I have noticed that under WOT acceleration in lower
gears, there are some points in the rev band where
there is a slight hesitation.  The car has a Dinan CAI
and chip.

Out of curiosity, I ran the stomp test and read out a
1226, which from searching the archives (as I couldn't
find a comprehensive list of flash codes on the net
anywhere, the Conforti one is no longer available) is
knock sensor #2.  I have been using premium gas in CA
(91 octane), but I have not gotten any check engine
lights.

What to do next?  I was trying to search for the part
number and price of the knock sensor on realoem.com,
but I was unable to find it.  Anyone know the part
number or group number at least?

TIA,
Brian
95 M3


                
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Yahoo! Personals - Better first dates. More second dates. 
http://personals.yahoo.com


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 19:46:35 -0700
From: George Trilikis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: UUC Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: <E36> SRS light
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I have one in San Diego you are more than welcome to use..

George Trilikis

On Apr 5, 2005 4:42 PM, Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello Gruppe,
> 
> I'm in the Los Angeles Area, and am wondering if
> someone in the area has an SRS reset tool I could
> borrow for my E36 M3.  If not, I guess I'll have to
> head over to the local independent.
> 
> Brian
> 95 M3
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
> 
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 23:15:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: <E36> ABS fault
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Howdy,

On Tue, 5 Apr 2005, Jim Bassett wrote:
> If you've got a local tech who will read out the ABS fault code, that 
> would give you the best chance of fixing the problem (my apologies if 
> you've done this already, and I've forgotten :-)).

That'd be my recommendation.

After playing around trying to figure out what my problem might be, I paid 
Brett $50 or so to read the codes.  One speed sensor later and the ABS 
worked fine.

It was a bit annoying that my buddy's snap-on / modic scanner wouldn't 
read the code, but whatever Brett's using apparently didn't have any 
issues.

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 23:46:02 -0400
From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: <E36> ABS fault
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Mark wrote>
> 
> It was a bit annoying that my buddy's snap-on / modic scanner wouldn't 
> read the code, but whatever Brett's using apparently didn't have any 
> issues.

Or it could have something to do with the user....

:-)

Later,

Rich

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 23:17:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: BMW Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Azenis Sport Replacement
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Howdy,

On Tue, 5 Apr 2005, Nancy and Bob Fluharty wrote:
> Was set to buy Falken Azenis Sports but I find they've been superceded 
> by a new model, Azenis RT-615. Google failed to turn up any tests or 
> reviews, other than Falken or vendor promo material. Anyone heard or 
> read anything?

Presumably you want them for autox or some other motorsport?

The autocrossers that I've heard from that have tried them said they were 
as good as or possibly better than the old tire.

http://www.sccaforums.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php/topic/22/1112

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 22:37:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Jim Bassett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: <E36> ABS fault
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On Tue, April 5, 2005 4:11 pm, Jim Bassett said:
> I can dig out my post with the info/part number/etc and re-post it this
> evening.

As promised, here's the resolution post I made to the E36M3 list over a
year ago:

>The fault code that was getting set (that one code reader was returning
>"No Description") was "Brake pedal travel length". Apparently there's a
>pedal travel length switch/sensor in the brake booster, next to the master
>cylinder. This is what needs to be replaced.
>
>P/N 34 33 1 182 594 (list price $110.48) This is the repair kit which gets
>you the switch, o-ring, couple of circlips and several colored plastic end
>caps for the shaft of the switch.
>
>Access was a bit tight for me, I removed the vacuum hose from the intake,
>and the rubber boot from the air box to the throttle body so that I had a
>straighter path to the sensor. You'll need some circlip pliers and a
>screwdriver, I found, in order to remove the circlip (I still managed to
>break off a bit of the plastic on the brake booster that helps retain the
>circlip). Pump the brake pedal a few times to help release the pressure in
>the booster, unplug the connector and pull the switch out (there may still
>be some pressure, so be careful).
>
>Note the color of the plastic end cap of the old switch and install the
>same one on the new switch. Use the o-ring on the new switch. I didn't see
>one on the old one, and installed the new one without it at first. Vacuum
>leak resulted :-) Secure with new circlip, reconnect connector and any
>other items you may have removed and you're done.

Hope that helps,
Jim Bassett


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 08:46:25 -0500
From: "Batt, Jeff \(GE Healthcare\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: gas smell - 95 M3
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hello all,

My '95 M3 has a strong gas smell every time I fill the tank...and continues to 
smell for about 50 miles or so after the tank has been filled...then it goes 
away until the next fill up.  Thanks to the archives, I checked out the rear 
wheel vent lines and under my rear seat for the top of the gas tank.  

Under the rear seat on the passenger side, I removed the access panel to find 
the white plastic cover filled with about 1/2" of gasoline (and a lot of dirt). 
 I believe there are 3 possible leak points that could cause this (please 
correct me if I'm wrong) - 1) inlet hose clamp, 2) outlet hose clamp, 3) gasket 
to top of tank.  I don't really know what these inlet and outlet hoses do...I'm 
only calling them that because that's how they were labeled in Bentleys.  But 
assuming they are for getting gas out of the tank, and that always 
happens...and I only have this smell (and thus I'm assuming the leak) when the 
tank is full - I'm guessing the issue is with the 5" diameter gasket around the 
pump cover (or whatever it covers).

Assuming it is this gasket...does anyone have a part number/name...as I'll be 
trying to stop by the stealer for a part later today.

TIA!  Battman 


------------------------------

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