The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 654 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: E34 M50 Water Pump
  Re: E34 M50 Water Pump
  Broken Radiator out of Warantee
  "first harmonic of the radial force"
  Re: "first harmonic of the radial force"
  Re: "first harmonic of the radial force"
  Re: Climate Control Headaches after replacement
  <E46> Tire Size.  225/45 vs 245/40
  Re: <E46> Tire Size.  225/45 vs 245/40
  Re: E34 M50 Water Pump
  Re: E34 M50 Water Pump
  E30 parts cross reference...
  Re: E30 parts cross reference...
  <E36>Aftermarket head unit wiring
  Re: <E36>Aftermarket head unit wiring

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 09:49:17 -0500
From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: E34 M50 Water Pump
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

You sure it's the pump? 

Might be a thermostat problem, though doing the water pump every 60k is a good 
idea (esp if the car is tracked, though I doubt this one is).

Job can be done with radiator in place. I have a fan tool to get it off if 
you'd like to borrow it.  Get some other parts while you're in there

- Thermostat
- Coolant level sensor (May as well while things are drained).
- Check hoses and serpentine belt.
- Check the age of the radiator. Plastic necks get brittle.


Marc Plante
E36 M3/4, 64k
Vienna, VA




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 11:11:37 -0400
From: Steve Nash <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: E34 M50 Water Pump
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I'm not sure it's the pump but figure it is due so....

Ditto the thermostat.

Is the fan nut a reverse thread 32mm like all others I have worked on?

The coolant level sensor is new and the radiator has 6 years and 60,000 
miles on it.  That is why I want to leave it in place if I can.

-Steve

Marc Plante wrote:

> You sure it's the pump? 
> 
> Might be a thermostat problem, though doing the water pump every 60k is a 
> good idea (esp if the car is tracked, though I doubt this one is).
> 
> Job can be done with radiator in place. I have a fan tool to get it off if 
> you'd like to borrow it.  Get some other parts while you're in there
> 
> - Thermostat
> - Coolant level sensor (May as well while things are drained).
> - Check hoses and serpentine belt.
> - Check the age of the radiator. Plastic necks get brittle.
> 
> 
> Marc Plante
> E36 M3/4, 64k
> Vienna, VA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 09:00:26 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
From: Kevin Kelly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Broken Radiator out of Warantee
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Brett wrote:

> Because of that fact, your dealer service manager has the discretion 
> to allow repairs under the 50K/4yr warranty up to 6 months or 5K 
> miles out of those limits.  He can do this without consulting BMW.

A nice letter to the owner of the dealership telling him what a great guy his 
service manager is after each scheduled service can often extend the 
discretionary period even longer...

Kevin Kelly
BMW CCA 50039


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 12:37:53 -0400
From: "Donald McMahon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: "first harmonic of the radial force"
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Gary et al:

I'm getting new Michelin Pilot Sports put on my 540i tomorrow or 
Thursday. The discussion last month makes me leery.

Discount Tire has a method of mounting and measuring and 
remounting they call "Road Force Balancing" which they say
matches the high spot on the tire with the low spot on the 
wheel.

I'm pretty sure this is not the perfect method of measuring runout
and mounting the tire but will this be close enough?

Don McMahon, Okemos, MI
several BMWs

*--------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 15:44:16 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: S-03's was BFG KDW's
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Not exactly.  Its the low point of the first harmonic of the radial force 
variation as the tire is rolled at a fixed radius.  It might be the smallest 
radius, or it might be the softest spot, or a combination of the two.

Gary Derian


> "low spot" = smallest radius?
>
> Curt Ingraham
> 72 2002tii
> Oakland, CA
>
> Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Mount the tires properly.  Have the old tires removed, bolt the wheels to
>> the front hub and use a dial indicator to measure the wheel runout.  Mark
>> the low spot of each wheel.  Have the tires mounted with the harmonic 
>> mark
>> (all new tires are marked) aligned with the low spot of the wheel.
>> Gary Derian

*----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 13:10:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tammer Farid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I know the Yokohama I just bought had two marks, a red
triangle at the lightest spot (to be aligned with valve
stem), and a yellow dot for maximum radial runout (as Gary
mentioned).

They were mounted using the weight mark.  Each balanced
with a single 1/4 oz. weight.

-tammer

*---------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 17:09:55 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

That valve stem thing is wrong for most aluminum rims.  Standard steel 
wheels are built and measured for runout, and the valve stem hold is drilled 
at the low spot.  Fancy aluminum wheels have their valve stem holes set by 
the design so they have other marks for runout, but after many years the 
marks wear off, and the wheels change, so one has to measure them to know 
where to mount the tires.

The tire shop guys don't know any better so they think the mark always goes 
to the valve stem.

The triangle mark is probably a QC stamp.  The red dot is the tire high 
mark.  There is no point in mounting a tire's light spot with the heavy spot 
on the rim.  Extra weight on the rim causes no harm.  Getting the runouts 
wrong will cause a shake that cannot be balanced out.

Tire guys also don't know how to dismount BMW ///M wheels with their special 
large safety hump.  The tire must be pushed off the rim at the valve stem. 
Tire guys are taught to never do that because pressure transmitters are 
mounted there on vehicles with tire pressure monitors.

Don't forget to always use short valve stems and the metal caps for high 
performance use.

Gary Derian



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 13:02:16 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Donald McMahon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: "first harmonic of the radial force"
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

It is the proper way to mount, if they do it properly.  The wheel should be 
measured before the tire is mounted.  You can do this yourself and mark the 
wheel.  New tires come marked.  I believe Discount tire uses a special 
machine that measures the radial force variation of the assembly.  I don't 
think they measure the wheel first, though.

Gary Derian


> Gary et al:
>
> I'm getting new Michelin Pilot Sports put on my 540i tomorrow or
> Thursday. The discussion last month makes me leery.
>
> Discount Tire has a method of mounting and measuring and
> remounting they call "Road Force Balancing" which they say
> matches the high spot on the tire with the low spot on the
> wheel.
>
> I'm pretty sure this is not the perfect method of measuring runout
> and mounting the tire but will this be close enough?
>
> Don McMahon, Okemos, MI
> several BMWs
>
> *--------------------------------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 15:44:16 -0400
> From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: S-03's was BFG KDW's
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> Not exactly.  Its the low point of the first harmonic of the radial force
> variation as the tire is rolled at a fixed radius.  It might be the 
> smallest
> radius, or it might be the softest spot, or a combination of the two.
>
> Gary Derian
>
>
>> "low spot" = smallest radius?
>>
>> Curt Ingraham
>> 72 2002tii
>> Oakland, CA
>>
>> Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>> Mount the tires properly.  Have the old tires removed, bolt the wheels 
>>> to
>>> the front hub and use a dial indicator to measure the wheel runout. 
>>> Mark
>>> the low spot of each wheel.  Have the tires mounted with the harmonic
>>> mark
>>> (all new tires are marked) aligned with the low spot of the wheel.
>>> Gary Derian
>
> *----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 13:10:36 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Tammer Farid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> I know the Yokohama I just bought had two marks, a red
> triangle at the lightest spot (to be aligned with valve
> stem), and a yellow dot for maximum radial runout (as Gary
> mentioned).
>
> They were mounted using the weight mark.  Each balanced
> with a single 1/4 oz. weight.
>
> -tammer
>
> *---------------------------------------------------
> Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2005 17:09:55 -0400
> From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> That valve stem thing is wrong for most aluminum rims.  Standard steel
> wheels are built and measured for runout, and the valve stem hold is 
> drilled
> at the low spot.  Fancy aluminum wheels have their valve stem holes set by
> the design so they have other marks for runout, but after many years the
> marks wear off, and the wheels change, so one has to measure them to know
> where to mount the tires.
>
> The tire shop guys don't know any better so they think the mark always 
> goes
> to the valve stem.
>
> The triangle mark is probably a QC stamp.  The red dot is the tire high
> mark.  There is no point in mounting a tire's light spot with the heavy 
> spot
> on the rim.  Extra weight on the rim causes no harm.  Getting the runouts
> wrong will cause a shake that cannot be balanced out.
>
> Tire guys also don't know how to dismount BMW ///M wheels with their 
> special
> large safety hump.  The tire must be pushed off the rim at the valve stem.
> Tire guys are taught to never do that because pressure transmitters are
> mounted there on vehicles with tire pressure monitors.
>
> Don't forget to always use short valve stems and the metal caps for high
> performance use.
>
> Gary Derian
>
>
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com 


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 14:43:27 -0400
From: "Donald McMahon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: "first harmonic of the radial force"
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Thanks Gary, I'll inquire whether they measure the runout of the 
wheel first and suggest they dial it in as best they can.

These are BBS 18" RS-GT wheels I'm hoping have negligible 
runout.

Don McMahon

>>> "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 5/10/2005 1:02:16 PM >>>
It is the proper way to mount, if they do it properly.  The wheel should be 
measured before the tire is mounted.  You can do this yourself and mark the 
wheel.  New tires come marked.  I believe Discount tire uses a special 
machine that measures the radial force variation of the assembly.  I don't 
think they measure the wheel first, though.

Gary Derian


> Gary et al:
>
> I'm getting new Michelin Pilot Sports put on my 540i tomorrow or
> Thursday. The discussion last month makes me leery.
>
> Discount Tire has a method of mounting and measuring and
> remounting they call "Road Force Balancing" which they say
> matches the high spot on the tire with the low spot on the
> wheel.
>
> I'm pretty sure this is not the perfect method of measuring runout
> and mounting the tire but will this be close enough?
>
> Don McMahon, Okemos, MI
> several BMWs
>
<snip>




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 14:36:50 -0400
From: "Gaudio, Stefano" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Climate Control Headaches after replacement
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Marco that's why I replaced it twice.  The chances that I got 2 BAD
brand new units is pretty slim, but sure I'll try swapping it with
someone else next weekend.  I'm always happy to hear about good
mechanics who specialize in BMWs so... Feel free to send any
suggestions, I live in Westchester County in NY.

Thanks

Stefano
'98 m3 getting ready for the Glen this w/e


In response to   -----------------

Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 07:25:12 -0700
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Climate Control Headaches after replacement
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Have you just tried swapping out the control unit with a known good one?
That shouldn't take longer than 1/2 hour.  They can do some wacky things
when they go bad.  I know the one on our 540 went completey nuts and
would
randomly turn on the defrost, the cycle the ac.....

BTW - where do you live - if you're not happy with your mech someone on
the
list maybe able to suggest an alternate.

Marco
----------------- 
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 13:32:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: <E46> Tire Size.  225/45 vs 245/40
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Gruppe:

A friend has to get two tires for her E46 coupe. 
These will go on the back.  Two tires are good for
another 6mo likely and will be switched to the same as
the the new pair at that time.

The stock size for the 8Jx17 ET:47 wheels is 225/45. 
She lives in-town (parallel parking) and has quite a
high curb rash rate and I was wondering if the 245/40
might help with that a bit.

Two questions:
1. Will the 245/40 fit on the E46 coupe front and
rear?
2. Will the 245/40 in the rear and the 225/45 in the
front cause a problem with DSC, etc?

Thanks!

Neil Deshpande
92 M5 - 245, 275

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 16:53:08 -0400
From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: <E46> Tire Size.  225/45 vs 245/40
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

That size will definitely fit the E46 in the rear.  It should fit in the
front, but she should realize there will be a difference in steering feel.

As for interference with the DSC or ABS, no.  Compare the sizes:

Specification  Sidewall  Radius  Diameter  Circumference  Revs/Mile
Difference
225/45-17         4.0in  12.5in    25.0in         78.5in        808
0.0%
245/40-17         3.9in  12.4in    24.7in         77.6in
 816       -1.0%

The 1% difference is not enough to cause a problem.  BMW's DSC system is
tolerant to nearly 6%.

- Rob

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Neil Deshpande" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [UUC] <E46> Tire Size. 225/45 vs 245/40


> Gruppe:
>
> A friend has to get two tires for her E46 coupe.
> These will go on the back.  Two tires are good for
> another 6mo likely and will be switched to the same as
> the the new pair at that time.
>
> The stock size for the 8Jx17 ET:47 wheels is 225/45.
> She lives in-town (parallel parking) and has quite a
> high curb rash rate and I was wondering if the 245/40
> might help with that a bit.
>
> Two questions:
> 1. Will the 245/40 fit on the E46 coupe front and
> rear?
> 2. Will the 245/40 in the rear and the 225/45 in the
> front cause a problem with DSC, etc?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Neil Deshpande
> 92 M5 - 245, 275


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 13:54:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: david kroth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: E34 M50 Water Pump
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Tammer wrote:

> removing the radiator is trivial and
> makes life much easier.  

It is trivial, once one figures out how to work
those clips - I never have.  And I don't want to
break on just to learn how.

If anyone can explain it, please do.

David Kroth
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


                
Discover Yahoo! 
Get on-the-go sports scores, stock quotes, news and more. Check it out! 
http://discover.yahoo.com/mobile.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 20:55:33 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "david kroth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E34 M50 Water Pump
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I broke one at first before I realized how they work.  Its actually a 
mechanism with plastic hinges.  Look closely, there are two sets of meshing 
teeth.  Spread the teeth and the device flexes enough to remove.

Gary Derian


>
> Tammer wrote:
>
>> removing the radiator is trivial and
>> makes life much easier.
>
> It is trivial, once one figures out how to work
> those clips - I never have.  And I don't want to
> break on just to learn how.
>
> If anyone can explain it, please do.
>
> David Kroth
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 13:56:39 -0700
From: Mark Gold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: E30 parts cross reference...
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

So I was wondering if someone was aware if the shocks and struts from 
an E30 (1988-91 to be exact) are the same specs as another model 
vehicle.  I remember someone mentioning something about the Ford 
Mustang, but that was a long time ago.  My curiosity was raised when a 
co-worker mentioned Edelbrock shocks and suggested I consider getting 
them for my cabrio.  I told him that it was unlikely they were 
available for any BMW, let alone the E30.  Another co-worker told me 
how much he liked the KYB AGX, which appear to be n/a for the E30.  I 
am currently running KYB (Gas-a-Just in the rear and GR-2 up front) 
with M3 springs and they have been suitable for daily driving and the 
occasional autocross, but I plan on going to H&R or Eibach springs and 
would like to be able to consider dampers other than they typical 
Bilstein, Koni and Sachs/Boge.  A friend has been running Tokico 
Illumina's on his 1991 and has been really happy with them.  This is 
mostly to satisfy my curiosity more than anything else.  Thoughts and 
suggestions would be appreciated.

Sincerely,

Mark Gold
Sacramento Chapter BMWCCA
916-852-6533 (home)
916-743-7153 (cell)
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 14:20:59 -0700
From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mark Gold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: E30 parts cross reference...
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Mark,
     Ford Mustang, late eighties vintage, rear shocks will fit right 
into the E30, lengths are almost identical, but the Mustang shock has a 
larger tube diameter.  I used Monroe Gasamatics for the combination of 
good performance and much lower cost than Bilstein or Koni.  Iirc the 
Mustang lower bushing has a larger hole than the E30's, but that was an 
easy swap.
     E36 rear shocks can be used in an E30 also.  I have my OEM E36//M3 
rear shocks removed with <15k miles of use which are in excellent shape, 
if anyone's interested.
Barry

Mark Gold wrote:

> So I was wondering if someone was aware if the shocks and struts from 
> an E30 (1988-91 to be exact) are the same specs as another model 
> vehicle.  I remember someone mentioning something about the Ford 
> Mustang, but that was a long time ago.  My curiosity was raised when a 
> co-worker mentioned Edelbrock shocks and suggested I consider getting 
> them for my cabrio.  I told him that it was unlikely they were 
> available for any BMW, let alone the E30.  Another co-worker told me 
> how much he liked the KYB AGX, which appear to be n/a for the E30.  I 
> am currently running KYB (Gas-a-Just in the rear and GR-2 up front) 
> with M3 springs and they have been suitable for daily driving and the 
> occasional autocross, but I plan on going to H&R or Eibach springs and 
> would like to be able to consider dampers other than they typical 
> Bilstein, Koni and Sachs/Boge.  A friend has been running Tokico 
> Illumina's on his 1991 and has been really happy with them.  This is 
> mostly to satisfy my curiosity more than anything else.  Thoughts and 
> suggestions would be appreciated. Sincerely,
> Mark Gold Sacramento Chapter BMWCCA
> 916-852-6533 (home)
> 916-743-7153 (cell)
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 21:32:06 -0500
From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: <E36>Aftermarket head unit wiring
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I tried putting an Eclipse head unit in my car tonight and had to back off.  

I had bought the BMW wiring adapter, and the european antenna adapter from the 
local Best Buy install shop.  

I hooked up the adapter to the new head unit, and got power to the unit, but no 
sound from the system. There didn't appear to be a connector for the amplifier 
control on the wiring harness. Am I going to need. to splice in a wire to power 
the amplifier?

Also, the antenna adapter has an extra blue wire on it.  Does I need to get 
power to it?

Any other quick hints?

TIA

Marc Plante
E36 M3/4 64k
Vienna, VA




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 20:30:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Marc Plante <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected]
Subject: Re: <E36>Aftermarket head unit wiring
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

--- Marc Plante <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I hooked up the adapter to the new head unit, and got power to the
> unit, but no sound from the system. There didn't appear to be a
> connector for the amplifier control on the wiring harness. Am I going
> to need. to splice in a wire to power the amplifier?

The only time I've done this on an E36 M3 I basically reached the same
point you did, power to the unit but no sound.  Mine was a Blaupunkt
head unit but basically I still needed one more connector on the Blau
to be able to turn on the amp.  Quick trip to the stereo shop and I had
the connector and to finish the install was simply hooking up the
remote amp power wire (blue) to the corresponding one on the E36
adapter.

Carlos.


                
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------------------------------

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