The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 710 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: <E30> Stroker or bored Re: <E30> Stroker or bored Re: <E30> Stroker or bored Re: <E30> Stroker or bored Re: <E30> Stroker or bored Re: Need advice on master cylinder / Teves ABS system [No Porsche, BMW content] Re: Need advice on master cylinder / Teves ABS system [No Porsche, BMW content] Re: Need advice on master cylinder / Teves ABS system [No Porsche, BMW content] Re: Need advice on master cylinder / Teves ABS system [No Porsche, BMW content] E36 M3 VANOS problems? Re: E36 M3 VANOS problems?
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 13:32:14 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: <E30> Stroker or bored Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On the issue of the M20 taken out to 2.7 or even 3.0 liters, here's the question. How much can the timing belt take? Anyone have experience or knowledge of guidelines? I would imagine that you would have to reduce the mileage intervals to account for the added stress put on the belt by the increase in HP. Thanks, -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 14:35:52 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E30> Stroker or bored Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ok maybe I'm stupid. But why would there be significantly more stress on the belt? Doesn't the belt just turn the camshafts? I could see if you're putting in monster valve springs or really heavy camshafts or spinning the motor to 17bazillion rpm but it's not like the belt is turning the crank - it's the other way around. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 1:32 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [UUC] <E30> Stroker or bored On the issue of the M20 taken out to 2.7 or even 3.0 liters, here's the question. How much can the timing belt take? Anyone have experience or knowledge of guidelines? I would imagine that you would have to reduce the mileage intervals to account for the added stress put on the belt by the increase in HP. Thanks, -Kevin Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 15:39:56 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E30> Stroker or bored Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- Marco Romani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > ok maybe I'm stupid. No, no, not stupid. ;) But why would there be > significantly more stress on > the belt? Doesn't the belt just turn the camshafts? Of course. > I could see if you're putting in monster valve springs or really heavy > camshafts or spinning the > motor to 17bazillion rpm but it's not like the belt > is turning the crank - > it's the other way around. That's all true, but I think the stronger springs (and higher RPM too?) would just cause deltas in the frictional coefficients necessary to maintain the belt in contact with all the pulleys. I'm no physics major or engineer, but in my opinion formed by my limited experience, I would say that even though the belt is moving constantly while the engine is running, there is still static state torque applied to the belt at any given moment. As the torque of the engine increases (i.e. the crank spins "harder"), the static torque applied at the instant the crank experiences the greater torque would result in greater tension being applied to the belt, causing it to stretch a bit more than on a normal engine. Of course at a certain point the belt might just slip on the crank, but the friction of the belt on the crank and cams is generally great enough that this doesn't occur (and I don't know of any M20 powerful enough to do that ;). Brian 95 M3 > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf > Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 1:32 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: [UUC] <E30> Stroker or bored > > > On the issue of the M20 taken out to 2.7 or even 3.0 > liters, here's the > question. How much can the timing belt take? Anyone > have experience or > knowledge of guidelines? I would imagine that you > would have to reduce the > mileage intervals to account for the added stress > put on the belt by the > increase in HP. > > Thanks, > -Kevin > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________ Yahoo! Mail Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour: http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 16:11:08 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E30> Stroker or bored Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ;-) a nice explanation. I think that's why timing belts I've seen typically are toothed. All the ones I've seen are toothed. I haven't seen a M20 so I don't know if they are. I would think they must be for timing, no? Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Ruiz Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 3:40 PM To: UUC Digest Subject: Re: [UUC] <E30> Stroker or bored --- Marco Romani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > ok maybe I'm stupid. No, no, not stupid. ;) But why would there be > significantly more stress on > the belt? Doesn't the belt just turn the camshafts? Of course. > I could see if you're putting in monster valve springs or really heavy > camshafts or spinning the > motor to 17bazillion rpm but it's not like the belt > is turning the crank - > it's the other way around. That's all true, but I think the stronger springs (and higher RPM too?) would just cause deltas in the frictional coefficients necessary to maintain the belt in contact with all the pulleys. I'm no physics major or engineer, but in my opinion formed by my limited experience, I would say that even though the belt is moving constantly while the engine is running, there is still static state torque applied to the belt at any given moment. As the torque of the engine increases (i.e. the crank spins "harder"), the static torque applied at the instant the crank experiences the greater torque would result in greater tension being applied to the belt, causing it to stretch a bit more than on a normal engine. Of course at a certain point the belt might just slip on the crank, but the friction of the belt on the crank and cams is generally great enough that this doesn't occur (and I don't know of any M20 powerful enough to do that ;). Brian 95 M3 > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf > Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 1:32 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: [UUC] <E30> Stroker or bored > > > On the issue of the M20 taken out to 2.7 or even 3.0 > liters, here's the > question. How much can the timing belt take? Anyone > have experience or > knowledge of guidelines? I would imagine that you > would have to reduce the > mileage intervals to account for the added stress > put on the belt by the > increase in HP. > > Thanks, > -Kevin > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________ Yahoo! Mail Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour: http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 17:12:40 -0700 From: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E30> Stroker or bored Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 04:11 PM 6/23/2005, Marco Romani wrote: The description of the diagram page and the part itself (11 31 1 713 361 in case anyone cares) says "toothed belt." It would have to be in order for the whole doohicke to work. I had a tensioner go bad and the toothed belt skipped a tooth on my previous car (not a BMW) which didn't have positive results (though luckily no permanent damage). I'm thinking the valve springs would have to be stiffer, valve lift greater (bigger cam), or the engine run at a higher RPM for there to be a profound difference in wear on the belt. The belt, as a design, doesn't seem to be a limitation here, since there are plenty of engines with complicated valvetrains running at high RPMs on belts every day. >;-) > >a nice explanation. I think that's why timing belts I've seen typically are >toothed. All the ones I've seen are toothed. I haven't seen a M20 so I >don't know if they are. I would think they must be for timing, no? > >Marco > > >-----Original Message----- >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Ruiz >Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 3:40 PM >To: UUC Digest >Subject: Re: [UUC] <E30> Stroker or bored > > > > >--- Marco Romani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > ok maybe I'm stupid. > >No, no, not stupid. ;) > > But why would there be > > significantly more stress on > > the belt? Doesn't the belt just turn the camshafts? > >Of course. > > > > I could see if you're putting in monster valve >springs or really heavy > > camshafts or spinning the > > motor to 17bazillion rpm but it's not like the belt > > is turning the crank - > > it's the other way around. > >That's all true, but I think the stronger springs (and >higher RPM too?) would just cause deltas in the >frictional coefficients necessary to maintain the belt >in contact with all the pulleys. > >I'm no physics major or engineer, but in my opinion >formed by my limited experience, I would say that even >though the belt is moving constantly while the engine >is running, there is still static state torque applied >to the belt at any given moment. As the torque of the >engine increases (i.e. the crank spins "harder"), the >static torque applied at the instant the crank >experiences the greater torque would result in greater >tension being applied to the belt, causing it to >stretch a bit more than on a normal engine. Of course >at a certain point the belt might just slip on the >crank, but the friction of the belt on the crank and >cams is generally great enough that this doesn't occur >(and I don't know of any M20 powerful enough to do >that ;). > > >Brian >95 M3 > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf > > Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 1:32 PM > > To: [email protected] > > Subject: [UUC] <E30> Stroker or bored > > > > > > On the issue of the M20 taken out to 2.7 or even 3.0 > > liters, here's the > > question. How much can the timing belt take? Anyone > > have experience or > > knowledge of guidelines? I would imagine that you > > would have to reduce the > > mileage intervals to account for the added stress > > put on the belt by the > > increase in HP. > > > > Thanks, > > -Kevin > > > > Search the > > >ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > > > > >__________________________________________________________________________ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > > founder of the BMW CCA. > > > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > > home of the Ultimate > > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > > Search the > > >ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > > > > >__________________________________________________________________________ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > > founder of the BMW CCA. > > > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > > home of the Ultimate > > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > > > > >__________________________________ >Yahoo! Mail >Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour: >http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Kazuto Okayasu Manager, Desktop Support Services (Interim) Administrative Computing Services, University of California, Irvine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 16:49:38 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "BMW List" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Need advice on master cylinder / Teves ABS system [No Porsche, BMW content] Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> What entire unit, the ABS or the master cylinder, or are these two items one unit? A bad master cylinder leaks, therefore the pedal sinks when held. A soft pedal, particularly one that pumps up means there is air in the system. If the bore is anodized aluminum, it only needs polishing and new seals. If it is cast iron and pitted (unlikely) it needs to be honed and polished with new seals. There is no oversize for brake master cylinders. If the ABS and master cylinder are one unit, you need to keep honing/polishing grit out of it. Gary Derian > Ok, asking in advance for some understanding, as I have the mechanical > aptitude of a retarded eggplant.... > > Looking for some learned advice on rebuilding a master cylinder. Simple, > right? Well, not quite. My good friend Andy Sanborn (well known on > Rennlist.com) is a 911 racer of some local reknown in New England SCCA. > Andy bought his wife a 1995 355 Challenge as a birthday present, and he's > having some problems with the braking system. We've traced the problem > down > to a 'bad' master cylinder - when you step on the brakes, hot or cold, the > pedal is soft before finally biting and stopping the car. We've flushed > and > bled it, and it's not a question of air in the system. > > Here's the problem. From 1995-1996, Ferrari used a Teves ABS system > (later > model 355s had a Bosch system). According to Ferrari, the ENTIRE UNIT > MUST > BE REPLACED AS A WHOLE. $4200. <gasp for air>. Which is ridiculous, > right? If we remove the assembly, we're hoping to send the M/C out for a > rebuild. > > So here's the question - is this something that only a shop expert in > rebuilding Teves systems can do, or should any reasonably competent shop > be > able to do this? (any recommendations, btw?) Should we have it overbored > to accept larger bushings, or just rebuild it as stock? How much > variation > IS there in bore sizing on a Teves system? Any other thoughts? I know > this > is something of a shot in the dark, but, hey, worth asking... > > TIA! > > vty, > > --Dennis > A Porsche, a couple of Bimmers, and maybe even a Cavallino toy or two but > wishing he had a Challenge painted as cool as Andy and Laurie's > Boston > > > > > > . > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 17:01:36 -0400 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Gary Derian'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'BMW List'" <[email protected]> Cc: "Andy Sanborn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Need advice on master cylinder / Teves ABS system [No Porsche, BMW content] Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks, Gary. To answer your question, those two items ARE one unit, as supplied by Teves, but there isn't any reason why the whole thing can't be sent out so that the M/C can be rebuilt, right? So I'm thinking that a reasonably competent brake shop should be able to just clean and polish it, and install new seals? And Teves/ATE seals should be relatively commonplace, no? Thanks!!! vty, --Dennis -----Original Message----- From: Gary Derian [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 4:50 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; BMW List Subject: Re: [UUC] Need advice on master cylinder / Teves ABS system [No Porsche, BMW content] What entire unit, the ABS or the master cylinder, or are these two items one unit? A bad master cylinder leaks, therefore the pedal sinks when held. A soft pedal, particularly one that pumps up means there is air in the system. If the bore is anodized aluminum, it only needs polishing and new seals. If it is cast iron and pitted (unlikely) it needs to be honed and polished with new seals. There is no oversize for brake master cylinders. If the ABS and master cylinder are one unit, you need to keep honing/polishing grit out of it. Gary Derian > Ok, asking in advance for some understanding, as I have the mechanical > aptitude of a retarded eggplant.... > > Looking for some learned advice on rebuilding a master cylinder. > Simple, right? Well, not quite. My good friend Andy Sanborn (well > known on > Rennlist.com) is a 911 racer of some local reknown in New England SCCA. > Andy bought his wife a 1995 355 Challenge as a birthday present, and he's > having some problems with the braking system. We've traced the problem > down > to a 'bad' master cylinder - when you step on the brakes, hot or cold, the > pedal is soft before finally biting and stopping the car. We've flushed > and > bled it, and it's not a question of air in the system. > > Here's the problem. From 1995-1996, Ferrari used a Teves ABS system > (later > model 355s had a Bosch system). According to Ferrari, the ENTIRE UNIT > MUST > BE REPLACED AS A WHOLE. $4200. <gasp for air>. Which is ridiculous, > right? If we remove the assembly, we're hoping to send the M/C out for a > rebuild. > > So here's the question - is this something that only a shop expert in > rebuilding Teves systems can do, or should any reasonably competent > shop be able to do this? (any recommendations, btw?) Should we have > it overbored to accept larger bushings, or just rebuild it as stock? > How much variation > IS there in bore sizing on a Teves system? Any other thoughts? I know > this > is something of a shot in the dark, but, hey, worth asking... > > TIA! > > vty, > > --Dennis > A Porsche, a couple of Bimmers, and maybe even a Cavallino toy or two > but wishing he had a Challenge painted as cool as Andy and Laurie's > Boston > > > > > > . > > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > ____ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . > http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 17:19:27 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'BMW List'" <[email protected]> Cc: "Andy Sanborn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Need advice on master cylinder / Teves ABS system [No Porsche, BMW content] Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brake seals are common, but I wonder if any shop will rebuild it. Is a similar unit used on any other car? Gary Derian > Thanks, Gary. To answer your question, those two items ARE one unit, as > supplied by Teves, but there isn't any reason why the whole thing can't be > sent out so that the M/C can be rebuilt, right? So I'm thinking that a > reasonably competent brake shop should be able to just clean and polish > it, > and install new seals? And Teves/ATE seals should be relatively > commonplace, no? > > Thanks!!! > > vty, > > --Dennis .com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 17:33:58 -0400 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Cc: "'Andy Sanborn'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Need advice on master cylinder / Teves ABS system [No Porsche, BMW content] Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Well, that's the $64k question, right? Hmmm... "does anyone know if another car uses the same integrated ABS/Master Cylinder unit as on the Ferrari 355?" :-) Seriously, you're right, Gary, I can't imagine Ferrari commissioning a unique system for such low volumes. Someone else suggest looking into the Ford Explorer, of all things.... vty, --Dennis -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gary Derian Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 5:19 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'BMW List' Cc: Andy Sanborn Subject: Re: [UUC] Need advice on master cylinder / Teves ABS system [No Porsche, BMW content] Brake seals are common, but I wonder if any shop will rebuild it. Is a similar unit used on any other car? Gary Derian > Thanks, Gary. To answer your question, those two items ARE one unit, > as supplied by Teves, but there isn't any reason why the whole thing > can't be sent out so that the M/C can be rebuilt, right? So I'm > thinking that a reasonably competent brake shop should be able to just > clean and polish it, and install new seals? And Teves/ATE seals > should be relatively commonplace, no? > > Thanks!!! > > vty, > > --Dennis .com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 18:36:14 -0400 From: "Andy G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E36 M3 VANOS problems? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am posting for my brother. Note that he has supplied a direct email address for himself at the bottom as he is not currently registered to the digest. - Andy ------------------------------------------- Driving home the other night in my 95 M3 (114k mileage, no modifications, manufacture date 05/95) made a very loud squealing noise from the engine compartment. It sounded like a belt squeal but louder. I slowed, the noise lessened then went away in about 10 seconds, before I could stop the car. I drove the remaining 5 minutes to my house and parked the car. The next morning I started the car cautiously. No squeal, however there was allot of clattering noise coming from the engine. I do know that at idle speed there is a lot of fuel injector noise etc. This is different and louder. Focused at the front of the engine under the grey metal VANOS drive cover. The engine idled normally so I drove it around the block, it ran smoothly and yet I know it is not right. An additional note: I am the 3rd owner, I do have service records from the original owner that show he took the car in for loud valve noises( clattering) when the car was started after sitting over night. The dealer felt everything was normal. Any ideas as to what possibly failed? How hard would the repair be for a do it yourself mechanic with a "Bentley Publishing" service manual? Any idea as to how much a repair like this would cost at a shop? High/Low Does anyone in the Columbus Ohio area know the reputation of Best Motor Works run by John Best? I had him over for a listen. His comment was that he has seen the VANOS drive wear out and need rebuilding. His feelings were something failed, like the chain tensioner but ultimately would not know until he got into the engine. Anyone know of a good independent BMW mechanic in Columbus Ohio? Thank you for any help or advice anyone can offer. Bruce [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 20:19:57 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Andy G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 M3 VANOS problems? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Most likely a water pump or belt tensioner. Pull the belts and check it out. A DIY mechanic would have already done that before sending you an email. I live in Columbus but I know no mechanics here. Gary Derian >I am posting for my brother. Note that he has supplied a direct email >address for himself at the bottom as he is not currently registered to the >digest. > > - Andy > > ------------------------------------------- > > > Driving home the other night in my 95 M3 (114k mileage, no modifications, > manufacture date 05/95) made a very loud squealing noise from the engine > compartment. It sounded like a belt squeal but louder. I slowed, the noise > lessened then went away in about 10 seconds, before I could stop the car. > I drove the remaining 5 minutes to my house and parked the car. > > The next morning I started the car cautiously. No squeal, however there > was allot of clattering noise coming from the engine. I do know that at > idle speed there is a lot of fuel injector noise etc. This is different > and louder. Focused at the front of the engine under the grey metal VANOS > drive cover. The engine idled normally so I drove it around the block, it > ran smoothly and yet I know it is not right. An additional note: I am the > 3rd owner, I do have service records from the original owner that show he > took the car in for loud valve noises( clattering) when the car was > started after sitting over night. The dealer felt everything was normal. > > Any ideas as to what possibly failed? > > How hard would the repair be for a do it yourself mechanic with a "Bentley > Publishing" service manual? > > Any idea as to how much a repair like this would cost at a shop? High/Low > > Does anyone in the Columbus Ohio area know the reputation of Best Motor > Works run by John Best? I had him over for a listen. His comment was that > he has seen the VANOS drive wear out and need rebuilding. His feelings > were something failed, like the chain tensioner but ultimately would not > know until he got into the engine. > > Anyone know of a good independent BMW mechanic in Columbus Ohio? > > Thank you for any help or advice anyone can offer. > Bruce > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(11 messages) **********
