The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 732 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: Thermosats failure
  Re: Thermosats failure
  Re: Thermosats failure
  1993 525iT for sale
  Re: Thermostat failure
  Re: Thermostat failure
  Re: Thermostat failure
  Re: 2002 VIN decode help
  BMW Wagon Seatbelt
  <X5> MODIC functions
  [FS] New lower price, Euro S38B38 engine for sale!

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Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 06:50:08 -0400
From: Dana Earl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Thermosats failure
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Stan said in responce to Jenny Morgan:

> I don't mean to be wise, but I could/would suggest taking an entire 
> spare car (and a mechanic if you are not so inclined) when going to 
> the track ... ANY number of components can fail with little or no 
> notice (the brake light switch is another example). And many other 
> components can seem old but fine, and then suddenly fail. You could 
> literally fill your trunk with spare parts and STILL not be prepared 
> for your actual oddball failure. To me, personally, a thermostat is 
> definitely not what comes to mind first. And always, think Murphy's 
> Law. Which probably means that I should take a thermostat ... Stan
>
>>> And another tip...
>>>
>>> When you go to a track event, take a new stat with you. It can save the
>>> day.
>>    
>>

25 years ago I was crew chief for a very competitve SCCA Formula Ford 
team. We not only took literally spares for everything (including a 
spare tub) but multiples for certain items (engines in particular).  The 
team was a National contender, and certainly would not have been without 
the often needed backups.  It really is a function of what kind of goals 
you have, how serious you are, not to mention how many bucks you can spend.

Dana Earl
94 530im
7 prior BMWs

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Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 07:53:50 -0500
From: Jenny Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Dana Earl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Thermosats failure
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Well, Stan...

Then I would suggest you take nothing but your Amex card.  Wait, 
MasterCard, most tow trucks don't take American Express.

I make recommendations based on my 25 years of track time. I wish I had 
a dollar for every failed brake pad, thermostat, fan clutch, oil 
pressure switch, fan belt, hose or stupid, affordable easily packed 
day-ending part I heard someone say, "If I had only brought a...".

Jenny


On Jul 13, 2005, at 5:50 AM, Dana Earl wrote:

> Stan said in responce to Jenny Morgan:
>
>> I don't mean to be wise, but I could/would suggest taking an entire 
>> spare car (and a mechanic if you are not so inclined) when going to 
>> the track ... ANY number of components can fail with little or no 
>> notice (the brake light switch is another example). And many other 
>> components can seem old but fine, and then suddenly fail. You could 
>> literally fill your trunk with spare parts and STILL not be prepared 
>> for your actual oddball failure. To me, personally, a thermostat is 
>> definitely not what comes to mind first. And always, think Murphy's 
>> Law. Which probably means that I should take a thermostat ... Stan


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 10:48:20 -0700
From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Jenny Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: Dana Earl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected]
Subject: Re: Thermosats failure
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

One , "affordable easily packed day-ending part" I suggest to keep in 
the parts box is a piece of brake line with threaded end, brake line 
compression fitting and flaring tool.  Ok three.  If these don't save 
your own day at the track somewhere, it will make great friends with 
whoever has lost a brake line who you get to lend them to.
Barry

Jenny Morgan wrote:

> Well, Stan...
>
> Then I would suggest you take nothing but your Amex card.  Wait, 
> MasterCard, most tow trucks don't take American Express.
>
> I make recommendations based on my 25 years of track time. I wish I 
> had a dollar for every failed brake pad, thermostat, fan clutch, oil 
> pressure switch, fan belt, hose or stupid, affordable easily packed 
> day-ending part I heard someone say, "If I had only brought a...".
>
> Jenny


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 10:37:14 -0400
From: "Michael Wendell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1993 525iT for sale
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

 
i'm looking to sell my 1993 525iTA. it's the typical oxford green with the
tan interior and it's sporting approx. 160k miles. cosmetically, it's rough.
there's a scrape/dent in the rear drivers door and lots of small dings
throughout. the interior is also showing its age, although it's just faded,
there is no significant wear in the leather, nor are there any rips/tears.
the wheels are aging 17" Mille Miglis that need to be straightened or
replaced, as two of them are less than perfectly round. it's also missing
one of the fog lights.

mechanically, the car is in excellent condition, i wouldn't hesitate to
drive it anywhere (hmmm... maybe that's why it's got so many dings and the
wheels are bent?). it's got awesome E28 M5 brakes all around so it stops on
a dime. i recently had Brett Anderson of Koala Motorsport go over the car
with a fine tooth comb and fix EVERYTHING that needed to be fixed. in
addition to a brand new PPG windshield, here's what he replaced...

Cooling:
17 11 1 469 177  radiator with external oil cooler
11 53 7 511 580  thermostat for M42/M50/M52
17 20 1 728 770  automatic transmission cooler

Chassis:
37 21 1 132 043  525iT self levelling rear accumulator (2)
73 12 1 129 867  self levelling rear shock mount
32 21 1 135 666  series tie rod assembly (2)
31 12 1 139 992  right lower control arm - steel
31 12 1 139 991  left lower control arm - steel
31 35 1 134 582  front stabilizer bar link (2)
32 21 1 138 854  centre rod
31 12 1 136 607  Thrust Rod Bushing (2)
32 21 1 136 450  Idler arm
31 12 1 141 097  left thrust rod
31 12 1 141 098  right thrust rod
33 32 1 126 476  rear pitman arm (2)
07 11 9 915 400  front sub frame bolt (2)
33 31 1 129 760  rear sub frame bushing (2)

Brakes:
34 11 2 226 009  front brake pads (2)
34 21 1 162 968  rear rotors (2)
34 21 1 153 194  rear brake caliper rebuild kit (2)
34 21 2 226 013  rear brake pads (2)
34 35 1 179 820  rear brake sensor

Hatch/Doors:
41 21 8 120 964  Touring rear hatch spring strut bolt
51 24 8 149 382  Touring rear hatch spring strut ball pin
51 24 8 120 172  Touring rear glass spring strut (2)
51 31 8 149 225  Touring rear window latch cover
51 24 8 120 847  Hatch lock/latch assembly               
51 22 8 168 090  rear door brake
                 KMS door reinforcement plates
61 31 1 383 074  Lock/Release microswitch
51 24 8 149 164  touring rear window shock grommet (2)

Engine:
11 61 1 738 629  idle hose connector
11 12 9 070 531  valve cover gasket (with Vanos)
11 15 1 735 150  PCV hose, from 9/90 production
11 15 1 726 828  PCV vacuum hose to idle connector
11 15 1 703 710  PCV valve cover connector
13 54 1 726 634  intake boot
12 13 1 730 521  spark plug connector (6)
13 41 1 738 187  idle valve to intake boot hose

Heating:
64 11 8 351 171  heater core

Interior/Glass:
                 New PPG Windshield
51 31 8 177 850  windshield trim clip
51 31 8 117 457  windshield trim (2)
51 31 1 908 645  windshield trim connector
61 13 8 359 078  touring cable cover clip (2)
62 11 1 376 716  instrument cluster back light bulb holder
51 16 8 147 468  PRNDL cover
61 61 8 361 475  driver's wiper blade assembly
61 61 8 351 760  passenger wiper blade assembly
51 71 8 156 460  touring third brake light screw. 4x22 (2)
51 47 8 137 306  drivers sill trim - Beige
51 47 8 234 047  Sill trim clip (4)

i'm looking to get around $5k for it (OBO!), but would also consider trades
for a decent E30 325iX or, while i'm dreaming, a VW vanagon syncro. the car
is located in sunny (HA!) western pennsylvania, about an hour east of
pittsburgh. i'd be happy to deliver it ANYWHERE for half the gas and the
cost of a ticket home. i still really enjoy driving it, but it doesn't fit
my new mountain-top lifestyle, what with all the snow and gravel roads.

photos will be posted at http://www.kwyjibo.com. note that the roof rack in
the photos is not for sale.

m.



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 10:00:02 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Thermostat failure
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

on 7/12/05 10:51 PM, "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I don't mean to be wise, but I could/would suggest taking an entire spare
> car (and a mechanic if you are not so inclined) when going to the track ...
> ANY number of components can fail with little or no notice (the brake light
> switch is another example).  And many other components can seem old but
> fine, and then suddenly fail.  You could literally fill your trunk with
> spare parts and STILL not be prepared for your actual oddball failure.  To
> me, personally, a thermostat is definitely not what comes to mind first.
> And always, think Murphy's Law.  Which probably means that I should take a
> thermostat ...

I drive my car to the track. Space for spares/tools is limited and I don't
take much beyond obvious consumables like brake pads. My selection criteria
are that the parts need to be most of:
- Small/light/cheap
- Known to fail/fall off/get lost
- Replaceable in the paddock
- Critical to continued driving/getting home.

BMW thermostats are on the fence: very common failure items but you can
simply discard a stuck one if necessary.

Some examples of what I do take:
- Spare lug bolts/nuts
- M12x1.5 tap and die for lug bolts (used several times on other cars)
- Front swaybar bracket (I've cracked 2, a friend's racecar 1)
- Brake caliper guide pin
- Engine oil filler cap, coolant tank pressure cap.
And of course basic hand tools for brake service etc.

Neil
Fort Wayne, IN
96 M3      - Bastard child
03 525iT   - Sterling Grey Metallic
77 MGB     - Original owner, need to sell
05 Mini    - Cooper S with LSD!



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 11:26:18 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Neil Maller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Thermostat failure
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

No you can't.  You have to block the bypass port which the thermostat does 
when the water is hot.
Gary Derian

>
> BMW thermostats are on the fence: very common failure items but you can
> simply discard a stuck one if necessary.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 10:42:11 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Thermostat failure
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

on 7/13/05 10:26 AM, Gary Derian at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> No you can't.  You have to block the bypass port which the thermostat does
> when the water is hot.

Note to self: include spare t'stat in track box.

Neil
E36 M3



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 10:03:37 -0700
From: Curtis Ingraham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: 2002 VIN decode help
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Does this have the info you seek?:

<http://www.bmw2002faq.com/reference/vin_table_us_cars.html>

Curt Ingraham
72 2002tii
Oakland, CA

Neil <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I'm trying to find a decode chart for a 1970 2002. Anyone here able to 
> help? I searched online, but all I found were for classic US cars or for 
> the 17 digit VIN system.
> 
> Neil


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 13:26:25 -0400
From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "BMW List" <[email protected]>
Subject: BMW Wagon Seatbelt
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

A fellow E39 member wrote in an email to me:

>Dear Dennis:

Hi.  I am a fellow member of the e39 yahoo group and
saw your post on the rear seatbelt not retracting. 
I've had the same thing happen and wonder if you could
tell me how it was resolved.  Thanks in advance for
any help you can provide.

======================

I received the above email, and thought I'd reply publicly.  For those of
you that don't recall, on my wife's E39, I had not one but TWO seat belts in
the rear fail when I was installing car seats.  Both failed to retract,
leaving the belt hanging, limp.  The dealer fixed the first under warranty.
The second occurred JUST AFTER he warranty period, and no help whatsoever
from either the dealer or BMW NA.  

So, thanks to the advice of the UUC and E39 lists, especially Jim Conforti
who provided explicit directions, I decided to tackle this task myself, to
replace the broken retractor with a new one.

So I slowly and methodically took apart the interior to get a the rear
retractor.  When I had removed the trim, I spotted the problem - the belt
had TWISTED BACK ON ITSELF as it retracted, and the fold in the belt jammed
in the retractor!  You can't see it with the trim on, NOR can you try to fix
it.  With the trim off, I just unfolded the belt, and the retractor is
working as new.  A few more minutes to put everything back, and voila!
Happy as a clam.

Though I must wonder if the same thing had happened to the original
retractor, on the other side.  The repair order from the dealership said
they replaced everything, so maybe BMW NA got stuck with the bill when all
it would have taken was to untangle the belt.  But, what do I care?  It's
not as if BMW NA has earned any sympathy from me. 

So now, when releasing the belt when removing the seat, I take some extra
care to make sure the belt doesn't fold as it retracts.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions!

vty,

--Dennis




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 18:16:23 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: <X5> MODIC functions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


New (to me) 2002 X5 3.0.  Trying to understand how some of these "Car Memory"
and "Key Memory" zany electrical functions work (some of this stuff shouldn't
be this complicated, come on Fritz).  Is there really no way to program MODIC
functions without going to a dealer?  Nobody has hacked any of this, step-on-
the-brake-27-times-and-jumper-these-pins kind of thing?  Ultimately, what I'd
probably like to do is shut most/all of this crap off (and leave me with just
a regular car that behaves intuitively, I don't need it trying to outsmart
me every time I turn the key).

- Kevin Jay
  '96 328is, red/tan, 95K, usual H&R/Bilstein setup, a few M3 parts too
  '02 X5 3.0, white/tan, 35K, bone stock



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jul 2005 18:32:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: James Muskopf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: S38-M88 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   BMWUUCDigest <[email protected]>
Subject: [FS] New lower price, Euro S38B38 engine for sale!
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

***NEW LOWER PRICE***

I'm selling a Euro S38 B38 motor. This is the most powerful 6
cylinder BMW has ever made, from the 1993-1995 E34 M5: 3.8L 340HP 24
valve inline 'big-six'. This engine has bigger valves, bigger
throttles, bigger headers, bigger ports, and hotter cams than the
315HP 3.6L M5 motors (S38B36).

Engine has everything from intake air filter housing to full original
headers, flywheel, harmonic balancer, air pump (whoopie), all
accessories, wiring, engine DME, ignition DME, HFM, etc.

Engine is on a pallet, ready to ship to the continental US. Bought
from a reputable US BMW tuner w/ 80k miles, imported from Germany
about 18 months ago. It has been stored indoors since it hit the US.
I was going to put it into my E28 M5, but I have since decided to
keep it all original. I am modding my other cars, and I really have
no use for this engine at this time.

It will fit an E34 without modification to the engine but may need
modification to other under-hood items to fit (except other M5s). The
headers will not fit in an E28 or E24 (5 and 6 series), and you have
to make a custom left side engine mount arm along with other custom
mods. It is a LOT of work to fit it into an E36 and probably not
worth it. Recommended transmissions are Getrag 260/6, 265/6, 280, and
ZF 6-speed.

*If you are trying to fit it into any other car, PLEASE don't ask me,
I don't know.*

Asking $6600 plus shipping. Please, no low-ball offers. I will not
sell accessories off the engine.

Thanks!
James Muskopf
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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