The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 783 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: <E36> Rear shock replacement degree of difficulty? Re: <E36> Rear shock replacement degree of difficulty? Re: <E36> Rear shock replacement degree of difficulty? wiring harness *delete* e36m3 Re: <E36> engine pinging Re: <E36> engine pinging Re: Two questions...degenerated <E30> Motor extraction2 Dallas area mechanics Re: Dallas area mechanics Re: Dallas area mechanics
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 08:30:49 -0400 (EDT) From: "Steve.Goldstein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: <E36> Rear shock replacement degree of difficulty? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> It's become quite clear that the rear shocks are tired. I've done this job a couple of times on E30s, how does the E36 compare? And does anyone have any idea why the E36 "Installation Kit" from Bavarian costs ~$55, when the kit for an E30 is only around $12? TIA. Steve '91 318is toy '99 323is soon to have new rear shocks '04 330xi spousal wunderkar ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 08:57:44 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Cc: "Steve.Goldstein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36> Rear shock replacement degree of difficulty? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> E36 rear shocks are as easy to change as E30 shocks in my opinion. The E36 kit (which actually looks like it is $38 compared to the $55 you noted) has the bump stops (compression absorbers in BavAuto speak). The E30 kit doesn't have (doesn't require them) so it is just a couple of plastic dust covers and a little rubber donut that holds them on the shock shaft. I have a brand new set of OE BMW E36 shocks (actually for an E36 M3 application) if anyone is interested in them. They were installed in the car and then removed so they have been out of the box. Regards, Rich > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Steve.Goldstein > Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 8:31 AM > To: [email protected] > Subject: [UUC] <E36> Rear shock replacement degree of difficulty? > > > It's become quite clear that the rear shocks are tired. > I've done this job a couple of times on E30s, how does > the E36 compare? And does anyone have any idea why the > E36 "Installation Kit" from Bavarian costs ~$55, when the > kit for an E30 is only around $12? > > TIA. > > Steve ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 07:07:57 -0700 From: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Cc: "Steve.Goldstein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36> Rear shock replacement degree of difficulty? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 05:57 AM 8/22/2005, Rich Dorffer wrote: I'll point out at this time that the procedure hasn't changed going to E46. 1 lower bolt and 2 upper nuts to remove from car, one more nut to disassemble. This is always a good time to PM the mounts, as most know this is a chronic problem on E30/E36/E46. I know some who've had good luck with Meyle or OE E46M3 mounts, but I went aftermarket after the E46M3 ones went just 3 years on my Touring. >E36 rear shocks are as easy to change as E30 shocks in my opinion. > >The E36 kit (which actually looks like it is $38 compared to the $55 you >noted) has the bump stops (compression absorbers in BavAuto speak). The E30 >kit doesn't have (doesn't require them) so it is just a couple of plastic >dust covers and a little rubber donut that holds them on the shock shaft. > >I have a brand new set of OE BMW E36 shocks (actually for an E36 M3 >application) if anyone is interested in them. They were installed in the >car and then removed so they have been out of the box. > >Regards, > >Rich > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Steve.Goldstein > > Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 8:31 AM > > To: [email protected] > > Subject: [UUC] <E36> Rear shock replacement degree of difficulty? > > > > > > It's become quite clear that the rear shocks are tired. > > I've done this job a couple of times on E30s, how does > > the E36 compare? And does anyone have any idea why the > > E36 "Installation Kit" from Bavarian costs ~$55, when the > > kit for an E30 is only around $12? > > > > TIA. > > > > Steve > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Kazuto Okayasu Manager, Desktop Support Services Administrative Computing Services, University of California, Irvine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 10:40:01 -0400 From: "Ken Arutunian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: wiring harness *delete* e36m3 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey gang, Just about have everything gutted from my e36m3. Just lack taking off the dash and getting the rest of that dang black crap off the floor pans. Anyways, the wire harness is amazingly thick and heavy. Has anyone BTDT to reduce the number of wires kept for a race car??? If so, is there an *easy* way of getting rid of the wires not needed? I'm not good at schematics. LOL Seriously, if anyone has any suggestions, I'd really appreciate any help in deleting some of these wires. BTW, what have you racers done to protect the wires that remain in the car? Thanks for any assistance. Ken Arutunian _________________________________________________________________ Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 11:36:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> engine pinging Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am a bit concerned about the pinging since I assume it causes damage to the engine over time (cylinder scoring, ring damage?) Is it okay for the engine to ping constantly (I would think not)? This is my daily driver, so should I do the switch to the anti-knock version of the chip? Thanks, Brian 95 M3 --- Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > On Thu, August 18, 2005 10:19 pm, Brian Ruiz said: > > I went ahead and picked up a > > Conforti intake and Euro HFM kit with chip. I > swapped > > it all in last night/this morning, and although at > > certain rpm points the pinging has stopped, it is > > still pinging just as much at other rpms. > > The Conforti chip is also programmed for higher > octane, so your solution > with the Dinan chip will be the same for the > Conforti chip. > > Basically, it's an issue mainly here in CA, since > what we got as "premium" > is lower octane that most of the rest of the > country's "premium". > > > anyone have any ideas? > > You can get a definitive answer by calling Josh at > Eurosport, but IME the > only solution is to mix in higher octane gas to bump > up the octane of the > tank of gas to eliminate the pinging. > > I do this all the time on the race car, but then > it's fairly easy since > just about every race track has higher-than-91 > available. > > Hope that helps, > Jim Bassett > 1998 M3/4 - JimC SW & intake, pings occasionally > 1993 325is #44 JP - JimC chip & intake, mixed octane > at the track > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 15:56:14 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Brian Ruiz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> engine pinging Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A little light ping now and then at part throttle isn't too bad, but steady ping at full throttle will beat the crap out of everything in the engine. Gary Derian >I am a bit concerned about the pinging since I assume > it causes damage to the engine over time (cylinder > scoring, ring damage?) Is it okay for the engine to > ping constantly (I would think not)? This is my daily > driver, so should I do the switch to the anti-knock > version of the chip? > > Thanks, > Brian > 95 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 11:10:12 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Two questions...degenerated Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Steve, Sure you can use Olive oil for brake fluid, but you have to be aware of the side effects.... your rear view mirror will fly off and you'll mutter phrases like "what's behind me donna matter". An you begin to affect a white bellowy scarf (like Brett in his truck w/trailer). -Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 10:46:49 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: <E30> Motor extraction2 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dropped the exhaust this weekend, one gentle tug was all it took to release from the exhaust manifold flange. An additional question, is it best to remove the motor mount nut at the bottom of the mounts and pull out the motor or remove the mount top nuts and leave the mounts in the frame? side note: it's amazing how much heat you can generate removing the copper oval nuts from the rusted studs on the manifold flange. -Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 19:22:22 -0500 From: "Craig Robson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Dallas area mechanics Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Anyone have suggestions for DFW area mechanics? My car (01 M3) is coming up on an Inspection and I don't want to get reamed at a dealer, nor do I want to get some hack mechanic working on the car. Would I be better off performing the service myself (with assistance of Bentley manual of course)? The valve adjustment doesn't seem too difficult, and the rest seems fairly easy. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Did I mention that I cringe at the thought of other people working on my car b/c it isn't theirs? Craig Robson 01 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 21:31:46 -0500 From: "Alexander Fadeev" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'UUC Digest'" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Dallas area mechanics Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Craig, Depending on where in DFW you live (huge area), try any of the four independents listed on LSC's web site: http://www.lscbmwcca.org/advertisers.html If you had asked a few weeks ago, you could have joined our latest DIY event at Autoscope and fellow club members would have helped you do it if it's your first time. Based on what you wrote, it appears that you are neither a BMW CCA member, nor a DIY-er. You might be better off cringing and paying a pro. alex f > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig Robson > Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 7:22 PM > To: UUC Digest > Subject: [UUC] Dallas area mechanics > > Anyone have suggestions for DFW area mechanics? My car (01 > M3) is coming up on an Inspection and I don't want to get > reamed at a dealer, nor do I want to get some hack mechanic > working on the car. Would I be better off performing the > service myself (with assistance of Bentley manual of course)? > The valve adjustment doesn't seem too difficult, and the rest > seems fairly easy. Any suggestions would be greatly > appreciated. Did I mention that I cringe at the thought of > other people working on my car b/c it isn't theirs? > > Craig Robson > 01 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 21:56:28 -0500 From: "Craig Robson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'UUC Digest'" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Dallas area mechanics Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Alex: I "was" a CCAer, but my membership fell out a couple years ago in favor of finishing school. I am also a DIYer... I used to adjust the valves on my e34 535i etc., but this car is a little different. I am not afraid of doing myself, it is just that sometimes it is easier to let someone else do it for you that has a) more experience and b) time. The problem is I am a perfectionist and an engineer (who would of thunk that huh?) and I have had dealerships screw up simple things like gapping sparkplugs, had a friend that works on F & P cars all day long (literally) and he screwed up putting in my clutch... it is hard for me to let the keys out of my hands now. However, thanks for the link, I will call these companies in the morning. Craig Robson ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alexander Fadeev" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'UUC Digest'" <[email protected]> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 9:31 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] Dallas area mechanics > Craig, > Depending on where in DFW you live (huge area), try any of the four > independents listed on LSC's web site: > http://www.lscbmwcca.org/advertisers.html > > If you had asked a few weeks ago, you could have joined our latest DIY > event > at Autoscope and fellow club members would have helped you do it if it's > your > first time. > > Based on what you wrote, it appears that you are neither a BMW CCA member, > nor > a DIY-er. You might be better off cringing and paying a pro. > > alex f > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig Robson >> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 7:22 PM >> To: UUC Digest >> Subject: [UUC] Dallas area mechanics >> >> Anyone have suggestions for DFW area mechanics? My car (01 >> M3) is coming up on an Inspection and I don't want to get >> reamed at a dealer, nor do I want to get some hack mechanic >> working on the car. Would I be better off performing the >> service myself (with assistance of Bentley manual of course)? >> The valve adjustment doesn't seem too difficult, and the rest >> seems fairly easy. Any suggestions would be greatly >> appreciated. Did I mention that I cringe at the thought of >> other people working on my car b/c it isn't theirs? >> >> Craig Robson >> 01 M3 > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(11 messages) **********
