"Dennis Monticelli" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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100% DeOxit on business card stock has worked well for me cleaning
relay contacts.  Put a little extra pressure on the contacts as you
swipe the card back and forth.  Before I discovered DeOxit I used 600
grit sandpaper which does remove material so don't try it on plated
base metal.

Dennis AE6C

On Jan 13, 2008 8:46 PM, Jim F. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> "Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> I found one of these tools on eBay to use on the
> relays in my Swan boatanchor.  I used one at Western
> Electric
> many years ago and it was designed to burnish relay
> contacts.  WECO used to use millions of relays.
>
> Western Electric 265C Burnisher Pocket Tool
>  ( eBay #270184548836)
>
> 73
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> --- Mark Pilant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> >
> > Mark Pilant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an
> > utterance to the drakelist gang
> >
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Greetings all.
> >
> > I have managed to find some time to work on my TR-3
> > and have
> > made a fair amount of progress.
> >
> > The first step was to clean off most of the grime,
> > dust, etc.
> > with Q-tips and (isopropyl) alcohol.  Followed by
> > DeoxIT on the
> > various switch contacts, tube socket contacts, and
> > T/R relay.
> >
> > BTW, I discovered the blue coloring on the blue
> > filter can be
> > removed with the alcohol.  Fortunately, the bluing
> > was on the
> > white backing no the actual blue filter.  Be
> > careful.
> >
> > After that came doing all resistance checks.
> > Anything more
> > than 10% off the table in the manual I investigated.
> >  I found
> > two very curious things.  First, pin 7 (6AU6A - VFO
> > cathode) is
> > shown as 7 ohms in the table, but my meter (Fluke
> > 875 with needle
> > probes) showed it as open.  The original manual I
> > have (from a
> > different owner) also shows this.  I'm not sure if
> > this is OK.
> > I'm not sure I really want to pull the PTO to trace
> > the circuit.
> >
> > Second, the first time through, the cathode and grid
> > resistance
> > measurements of several tubes were vastly different
> > (in both
> > directions: high and low).  Looking into this
> > further, the tubes
> > all appeared to be in the receive chain.  On a
> > hunch, I played
> > around a but with the T/R relay contacts while
> > measuring the
> > cathode resistance of V12 (IF amp).  It would go
> > from 105 ohms
> > to 29.7K.  What was curious was it wasn't up and
> > down motion of
> > the relay contact but side to side.
> >
> >
> > So it looks like my T/R relay needs some serious
> > attention. I
> > can think of a several of things to try:
> >
> >     1)   Clean it again with DeoxIT (by pulling
> > soaked heavy
> >          paper through the contacts).
> >     2)   Use a burnisher or very fine grit (1000+)
> > wet/dry
> >          sandpaper.  (Like Mark Gilger's "Relay
> > Care" Tech Tip
> >          on WB4FHN's site.)
> >     3)   Find a replacement relay.  I'm not sure if
> > this is
> >          possible.
> >
> > Since my TR-3 has an open frame T/R relay, it isn't
> > too surprising
> > it is dirty.  I'm just not sure if I will be able to
> > adequately
> > clean the contacts.  I'm preparing myself to have to
> > remove the
> > relay to really clean it.  I'll also check the
> > armature string
> > tension as well.
> >
> > All comments and suggestions welcome.
> >
> > 73
> >
> > - Mark  N1VQW
> >
> >
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