[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang ---------------------------------------------------------------------- I'm restoring a similar TR-3. I've noticed that the relay has three sets of contacts. They are oriented so as to close and open in a sequence rather than simultaneously. Does anyone know why? If it is necessary to replace this thing, it may be difficult to find a replacement that sequences the contacts.
Anyone have a 100K trim pot they can part with? I broke the head off the anti-vox adjustment pot on my TR-3. Really stupid, I was taking the bottom cover off and tried to unscrew the center fastener. I turned the pot thinking it was the chassis screw. :( I've purchased a set of replacement chassis screws from the local hardware store. They are have socket heads. They are black and look much like the originals. I won't make the trim pot mistake again. I'd be happy to swap a set of twelve of these (or some other parts) for a trim pot. While on the subject. There are no labels on the side controls. As far as I can tell, Drake didn't label them on the TR-3. I think they labeled the TR-4. I used a Brother label maker to label the side controls, but it looks tacky. Has anyone found a more elegant solution? My TR-3 has a switch on the chassis that grounds the remote VFO pin 2. This looks like it is intended to function as the jumper plug that should be used when disconnecting the remote VFO. Does anyone else have a similar switch? The alignment instructions say to remove the plate and screen wires from the inside of the chassis. I think the plate is on the top of the final tubes. Can anyone verify? I think I've found the screen, each final has a 68 ohm resistor connected to it. They pass through the chassis wall with an insulated feed-through. I wonder why they didn't put a switch in there to disconnect the them. Having to unsolder a wire to do an alignment seems odd. -- Rich Carter - KE1EV -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Mark Pilant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Mark Pilant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > Hi Carl. > > > Look into a John Kriner relay board kit (original Drake stuff, > > abt $25) ... > > I'll have to keep this in mind. The relay in my TR-3 is an open > frame relay screwed down to a small metal base where all the > feed through caps are. I believe the later TR-4 changed this; > but I'm not sure as I don't (yet :-) have a TR-4. > > Earlier this morning I ran some 1500 grit W/D sand paper through > the contacts and every thing seems to be fine. Under a lighted > magnifier, I was also able to see some cotton fibers sticking > around one set of contacts. I removed them :-) > > I just started doing another resistance check on all the tubes > to see what has changed. > > 73 > > - Mark N1VQW > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body > Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message > Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net ----------------------------------------------------------------------
