From: "Bob Talbot" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Subject: EOS And now, in Stereo
>
> OK
>
> My latest diversion is into playing with anaglyphs: stereo images.
> http://www.st-abbs.fsnet.co.uk/3d/
>
> But the question:
>
> For moving subjects I need to fire both EOS cameras synchronously.
> Even a small time separation would mar the "fusing" of the images.
>
> <snip>
Hello,
I became interested in stereo photography last summer. At that time, I had one
Canon T70 and one Rebel 2000. I tried several different approaches, including
a cheap beam splitter from Porter's. I put that awful thing on an EF 50mm 1.8
II and it made quite a noise when focusing! That poor little lens isn't built
for all that weight. I used the T70 for a trial roll and found the results to
be horrible, so I returned the beam splitter the next day.
I also tried the weight shifting approach, which works well for stationary
subjects. You only need one camera for this method.
By this point I wanted to get more serious, so I decided to get another camera
and try to fire them simultaneously. I bought another T70 with a matching 50mm
lens.
I know the T70 isn't an EOS camera, but it uses the same remote switch as some
EOS cameras, so please bear with me.
I mounted both cameras on a flat metal bar. At first, I just used both hands
to operate the shutter buttons. This worked pretty well, but was fairly
uncomfortable and unstable. Pretty funny looking too!
I had two RS-60T3 remote switches, a multimeter, soldering iron, not much
electrical know how, and a lot of determination to get these two cameras in
synch. At first I figured I would splice the wires together and just use one
remote button. I think this worked, but I was having trouble getting all the
wires in one 60T3 box. I continued to fiddle with it, when I accidentally
discovered that pushing the shutter button on one camera would make both
cameras go off! Boy, was I ever surprised. I didn't need the switch, I just
needed the wires!
To be very clear, I am using the camera connectors and wires from two RS-60T3s
to directly link each of the three contacts with the identical contact on the
other camera. Very easy to do.
PLEASE NOTE: I have no idea if this is bad for the cameras (so far, so good).
I also have no idea how this would work on an EOS camera. I just wanted to
share that it was possible to do something like this with a Canon camera and a
remote switch that is still used.
The results have been good, but the firing times are inconsistent. As far as I
can perceive, sometimes the cameras fire at the exact same moment, other times
there is a noticeable lag between cameras, but probably not more than 250
milliseconds. I haven't done any testing, so that's just a guess. Considering
this, flash doesn't work too well. Moving subjects are at times trouble, but
not always. Some test pictures of city traffic are fine, others are not. Maybe
a similar setup with a modern EOS camera would be better, assuming the same
body and close production dates.
On a side note, I can't see using two autofocus cameras for stereo
photography. The best setup would be two prime lenses with a good distance
scale, in manual focus mode. That's why I went with the T70 and not another
Rebel. But hey, you need to use what you have, right?
Also, if you haven't yet, try slide film and a special viewer. The results are
simply beautiful. Everyone that sees them is amazed and delighted. It's
basically a make-your-own View-Master system, except the image is much larger.
I can strongly recommend the "Pinsharp 'Adjustable' Twin 35mm Slide Viewer"
from Reel 3-D Enterprises. See
http://stereoscopy.com/reel3d/slide-viewers-twin.html for more info. Don't get
the lower cost viewer found on the same page.
Good luck!
- Jim Turner
Temecula, CA
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