> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bob Talbot
> Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 7:28 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: EOS And now, in Stereo
>
>
>
> BobT, which bodies were you going to use?
>
> Probably the 50E and the 1n.
> But I am no electronics expert ... I wouldn't know where to start
> building relays ... well, maybe with some work but there are too many
> other things to learn ...
>
> You never know: someone just might have done this ;o)
I can't help with the time lag differences between bodies, but there is an
easy way to use one switch to fire both bodies while keeping them isolated
electrically: simply use a double-pole single-throw (DPST) switch.
This is basically 2 switches with one actuator.
These switches have 4 contacts, 2 on each side (usually separated by a ridge
on the switch body). I'll represent it like this:
o|o
o|o
Assuming you have the cables from 2 60 T3 remotes (from which you have cut
off the switches), you would wire them like this:
Camera #1 red conductor-----o|o-----Camera #2 red conductor
Camera #1 shield------------o|o------------Camera #2 shield
Now throwing the switch will connect camera #1's red conductor to its
shield, and camera #2's red conductor to its shield without making any
electrical connection between the 2 cameras.
If you wanted to get fancy, you could also wire individual pushbuttons for
each camera, both the fire button and the focus button. Build the whole
thing into a plastic project box, with stereo plugs to connect the two
cables, and you've got a pretty versatile remote.
I've built something similar for just one camera with pushbuttons and a
toggleswith for long exposures.
Chuck Skinner
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