Whatever you are using for packing MUST go the entire width of the warp, but it won't work if it's wider than the beam. If you are using heavy-duty paper, an overlap is fine as long as it goes lengthwise across the beam all the way from side to side. You don't need one long continuous piece. BUT, if you have an overlap in the center, running parallel to your warp, you will never get your tension right! It is always better to use MORE packing material than you think you need, rather than try to skimp. I try to put packing (I prefer sticks but I've used heavy paper) between each layer of warp. Think of it this way...whatever you do to ONE warp thread, you must do the same to ALL.
I think the confusion about warping without tension may come from a misunderstanding. Older editions of Chandler's book don't give instructions for anything but front to back warping. You can wind your warp with minimum tension if you are warping front to back (depending on what your finished product is intended to be). In other words, if you start at the front, thread the reed, then the heddles, then tie on the warp beam and wind on, pulling the warp thru the reed and heddles, then the act of the warp dragging thru the reed and heddles will even the tension as you go. Alternatively, you can, after each turn of the warp beam, go to the front of the loom and tension the section of warp that you just beamed. Divide the warp hanging off the breast beam into 2" sections, take one in each hand and lean back, using your weight to apply tension. Move down the warp, doing a 2" section in each hand all along the width. Using your weight in this way insures that the tension is evenly applied all along the width of the warp. Repeat this with each turn of the warp beam, try to keep your hands and body in the same position each time...you want EVEN tension....don't forget to add the packing! :) However, you say you are warping back to front, so you need tension on the warp as you are winding it. There is no resistance of the reed and heddles to keep the tension even, so you have to think of something else. I use a warping trapeze and weights, some folks just add weights to the warp as it drags along the floor, others have someone holding tension on the warp as it beams. Weaving can be absolutely miserable on an unevenly tensioned warp, but a wonderful fun time if the warp is right. With a 10 yard warp, it's worth taking the extra time to get it as perfect as possible. You might want to find a copy of "Warping with a Trapeze and Dancing with your Loom" by Katie Meek. Great illustrations using a Baby Wolf. Hope this helps!! Lynn C Seattle > > > > especially with 23" weaving width on a 26" loom (Baby Wolf) and 30" > > wide paper! I started with paper towel cardboard rolls cut down the > > length. I think that was a mistake because of the overlap required to > > cover 23". So, maybe I will rebeam... > > > > My warp is 10 yards, so fairly long. And because I am using four > > colors, I measured and chained each color separately - sort of a > > nightmare. All in all, it is a good learning experience! And still > > fun, no matter how much more work I might create for myself. > > > > Jennifer > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >
