Hoi Seb

> Looks great. I can try to prototype few part of the schematic if you want.

please do, thanks


>  - it seems you have made one connector per port (eg. one for PORTA, one for
> PORTB). I tried to do this as first, then realized the PCB was way too
> complicated because pins aren't distributed "logically", in a continued
> fashion (hope you know what I mean). Do you think the PCB will be simple
> enough to be built by ourselves ?

Not yet started the PCB so I have to see if i need to adjust
schematic (without changing the working) for an improved routing.



>   - I think RC4 and RC5 should be part of connector, if no USB is used, we
> can still use the use pin (this is what I called "exported pins": pins being
> part of a connector and available to shields.

I know but when using USB, lines must be as short as possible so no
lose ends to a connector.


>
>   - I've never tested this but if we use Tinybootloader (I'd like to), it's
> able to reset the PIC by setting RTS. Some hardware is required, see
> schematics inhttp://www.etc.ugal.ro/cchiculita/software/tinybldusage.htm 
> section
> "Options". Having the possibility to remotely reset the device is a
> must IMHO. I'd need to prototype and test this on a breadboard (but I'm
> having troubles making tiny working). I've also seen you've put a reset pin
> on Power connector. What would be the usage ?

Albert made a bootloader for USB in this schematic the idea is using
USB bootloader (if working)
or use ICSP.
If you want to use RS232 you need to make a shield and there you can
use the RESET line (in the
power connector ) for reseting the system with in your case RST :-).


> hardware for reset tiny (instead of reset via power connector ?)
>   - partially related to previous bullet: all the serial module I have have
> RTC and CTS pins (bluetooth-serial converter and USB-serial FTDI based
> converter). Should we add this pins to serial connector ?

see above

>   - finally, my USB-to-serial module also is able to provide power. This
> would give a third option to power supply:
>
>    1. power is taken from a wallmart power supply (jack)
>    2. power is taken from USB connector (the one we have in our schematics)
>    3. power is taken from serial module, when available (for instance,
> available when using USB-to-serial connector)
>
> Is it possible to add this 3rd option ?

No, serial delivers only a few mA of power this can give you lots of
trouble if you use standard RS232

>
> (last thought: Using PIC LF versions, we can make them run at lower voltages
> than 5V. My USB-to-serial converter also is able to provide 5V or 3.3V (and
> many of these provide the kind of things). Will this work with 3.3V for
> instance ?

Don’t see why not, but then all of your shields must be working with
3.3V
or you also need to add 5V and than every body needs to be careful not
to blow up the anything because of mixed up power.

>
> > As you can see I also added a pushbutton and led so without a shield
> > you can already work with usb, serial,i2c and do the, “blink a led”
> > tests and have a input.
>
> Yes, as in original Arduino, good idea to check the board.

The schematic i have from Arduino (duemilanove) only has one PB for
reset so for there users there is no input option, but it does have a
led your right.
I was also thinking about placing a potentiometer for analog options
but did not because of probably layout problems (see Alberts blog on
18f14K50 where we did use a potentiometer).
But off course as I set before “use the good things from other
Boards” :-) so were I can I will.


>
>
>
> > I was thinking of making the pcb size of Jaliuno medium and maxi ½ a
> > eurocard (100x160) would be 100x80 but that is for later.
>
> The smaller the better :)

off course


> In my first attempt to make a PCB, I've reserved a space so the chosen
> serial module can be plugged (see bottom left part).

chosen serial module ??? where can i see that module to have an idea

greetz


Richard
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