Hi Richard, hi guys,
> > I have made a schematic for Jaluino maxi (18F4550) with hopefully > all the wishes you all have. > As ask by Seb, source can be obtained in3 ways > 1 PSU through Jack (Jumper on JP1) > 2 USB (Jumper in JP2) > 3 Serial, powered by USB to serial TTL converter. Great ! > If you want to create a RS232 with a MAX232 you must > select for the source, Jack (JP1) or USB (JP2) and place > a jumper on JP4 to supply 5V to de serial connector. I'm not sure to understand: - option 1: I want to power the board with a Jack. To do so, I put a jumper on JP1. JP2 and JP3 remain clear. If I want the serial module to be powered, I put a jumper on JP4. - option 2: I want to power the board with USB. To do so, I put a jumper on JP2. JP1 and JP3 remain clear. If I want the serial module to be powered, I put a jumper on JP4. - option 3: I want to power the board with a serial module, provided it can. To do so, I put a jumper on JP3. JP1 and JP2 remain clear. It doesn't matter whether I put a jumper on JP4 or not, the result is the same. Is that right ? Is it possible to replace JP1, JP2 and JP3 by a "tristate" trigger so there's no possibility for a user to put jumpers on JP1 *and* JP2 for instance (I could do this...). This would make the board more foolproof... if you know what I mean :) > > Also ask by Seb is the reset option by RTS (J7). OK this is where I'm lost... I have few questions about this: - RTS and CTS in serial connector are connected to RD5 and RD4. Why ? - when I want to reset the board using RTS, I need to switch RTS J7 trigger to position 1-2, as in the schematic. Is that right ? - All the serial modules I've used or built have their RTS connected to CTS. No flow control, quite common I think. Like in this article: http://www.lynxmotion.com/images/html/build125.htm . Now imagine I use such a module with RTS and CTS connected. I plug it to the board. Will this work ? Or should RTS and CTS remain unconnected from each other ? In that case, do I have to deal with flow control ? (hope not...) Sounds like silly questions, but this whole reset thing is not clear for me :) > > The serial connector is pin compatible with the Bluetooth to serial > converter > http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=582 > > > The leds, PB and I2C are gone and must be made on a shield. > On a 2 layer pcb we can place them even with more bells and whistles > but better keep the homebrew one simple. OK, you're right we need to keep the home brew version as simple as possible. > > > I maintained the reset on the power connector similar to Arduino if > you don’t mind. > better not used and have than needed and don’t have, if you now what I > mean. Yes, sure, and I do know what you mean. > > The connectors are more routable friendly connected to the 18F4550 (I > hope) but > this I will notice as soon as I start with the pcb. > > If you all agree I will use female array 2,54mm(0.1”) pitch connectors > for I/O, > male rectangle array 2,54mm pitch connector for serial and ICSP, > B-type USB connector and PCB power connector, see Farnell nr 1608726. About shield connectors, they'll have to be tall enough so all the components can fit under the shield. Like these ones, being used to build shields (they also have long pins so they can be plugged on the mainboard and expose shield connectors to other shields at exactly the same place): http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9279 http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9280 > The schematic is placed in the file section. Thanks. Can you also provide the source files, loaded by your application. BTW, what application are you using to build this ? > Because shields must be of one size in depended if they are for Medium > maxi or bigger > I don’t expect a big difference in pcb size between medium and maxi. > Because real difference will be the number of I/O, I think nobody will > be interested > in Jaluino medium with a 18f2550. > Is it an idea to have Jaluino mini for 18f14K50, Jaluino Medium for > 18F4550 and Jaluino Maxi > for something like the 18F87J50 (mentioned by Seb)? I first tried to use a 18F4550, but the PCB was too complicated, so I switched to a simpler one using 18F2550. If you can do the magic and use a 18F4550 and still keeping a simple & small enough PCB, that would be great ! Cheers, Seb -- Sébastien Lelong http://www.sirloon.net http://sirbot.org --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "jallib" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/jallib?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
