I have had no trouble with run on! If you make sure that the float level is right and that the needles and seats are clean and concentric, and that the idle is set right, it should die when you tell it to!
Nick > > From: "Ben" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: Bluebird probs!!! > Date: 13/03/2002 12:05:05 > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > have u tried just stopping it while its in drive?? > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Matt Cherry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 4:10 PM > Subject: Re: Bluebird probs!!! > > > > Terry .. thankyou very muchly for that peice of info ..... it has shed > alot > > of light on the situation .... & come to think of it .. i know where one > of > > those solenoids are .. but as andrew said.. is the solenoid internal on > the > > l20 carby? or external cos if it is externaly.. it could make things alot > > easier... but tomake things better... i could always just do the manual > > conversion to stop it doing it !!! i will do the conversion .. but hat is > > planned for abit later on now !!..... anyway thankyou for your help ... > i'll > > propose it to the old man & work on it from there !! > > Matt > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 8:14 AM > > Subject: RE: Bluebird probs!!! > > > > > > > Justin, > > > > > > "Running on" with SU's can be a problem and with an auto there's a bit > of > > a > > > problem with doing a clutch kill. The stock carbie on a late L20B > (Bluey) > > > has a solenoid in the fuel line that when the ignition is off it blocks > > the > > > supply of fuel into the venturi - no fuel, no run period. SU's don't > have > > > such a device so if there is some form of ignition in the cylinder then > > they > > > will run on especially if the idle is 800 rpm or higher as the air > supply > > is > > > about right. > > > > > > There are a number of ways to stop it happening. If it hasn't got air > > > conditiong then you can fit a fast idler off the a/c model to the > throttle > > > shaft and trigger the device with ignition power. You then set the idle > > > screws on the carbies at say 500 rpm and the idle speed by the a/c idler > > to > > > 800-900 or whatever it's happy at. When you kill the ignition the > throttle > > > shuts instantly blocking the air flow - problem fixed. > > > > > > Another way and it's along the same lines and suitable for a/c if > fitted. > > > Get an adjustable idler solenoid off a VB Commy carbie and make up a > > bracket > > > for it to actuate the throttle bar and these things also work off the > > > ignition. Much the same idea as the factory a/c fast idler method but > with > > > a/c both fast idle systems work and no run on. I've used both of these > > > methods on L18SSS 9.5:1 engines and they each worked a treat. > > > > > > Another way that I have seen is by pinching the idle control system off > a > > MG > > > or Triumph TC. The British took a different approach as the device used > > > kills the manifold vac by creating a massive air leak when the ignition > is > > > turned off. It's a valve fitted to a hose connected to the manifold > (much > > > like the brake booster) that has a solenoid fitted that closes the valve > > > when ign is on. It works as it kills the airflow into the chambers when > > the > > > valve opens at ign off. > > > > > > Timing. > > > Ideally with SU's you should set more initial advance than with a > > downdraft. > > > I'd start at 14 degrees and if the engine can take it without pinging > try > > up > > > to 18 degrees as the more initial advance you can supply to SU's the > > better > > > performance you'll extract. Problem is the single carb dizzy is designed > > for > > > 10 degrees initial and 25 degrees mechanical advance, so if you up the > > > initial by 4-8 degrees then this is added on to the total advance which > > > could cause pinging around max torque revs (~4000 rpm) and higher. > Couple > > of > > > things you can do, i.e. try running Optimax 98 or similar fuel or more > > > difficult you can modify the dizzy to limit the mechanical advance to > give > > > only 18-20 degrees. > > > > > > Balance valve? > > > Don't think so. What are these SU's off? Some late model Nissan engines > > have > > > a pollution style SU that has an altitude adjustment valve again just > like > > > the Hitachi downdraft that you removed in a vac line between them. The > DD > > > have a small rubber stop in the baseplate that when removed exposes a > > small > > > adjusting screw. All it does is allows more/less air flow depending if > > > you're at sea level or at altitude - they're a good idea in theory but > the > > > valves jam and you're better off without it. > > > > > > > > > enjoy the ride > > > regards > > > Terry > > > > > > > > > > > > > Justin > > > > > > > > > > > Hi listers, > > > > > > About 4 weeks ago i put my twin sidedraught hitachi's onto my 84 > > > > bluebird > > > > > > auto wagon (goes way way better now) & after mucking around alot > > > trying > > > > to > > > > > > get everything running well it is now .. well it has been for a > few > > > > weeks > > > > > > now .. running on when i turn it off... now my dad who has been > > > mucking > > > > > > around with these things for yonks ... is going to have look at it > > > this > > > > > > arvo .. but we believe it has somthing to do with a valve that > runs > > on > > > a > > > > > > tube that goes between the pipes on the manifold which has > something > > > to > > > > do > > > > > > with emission control & my dad says he has never seen it before > ... > > > what > > > > > > it is?.. it is a large screw with a spring on it.. & when wound > down > > > > > > lowers the idle ... & up takes the idle up obviously .. but i was > > > > > > wondering if anyone could tell me if this has anything to do with > > the > > > > > > engine running on when i turn it off & if so.. what has to be done > > to > > > > fix > > > > > > it .. & if not ... what could it be ..hopefully dad can fix it.. > but > > > any > > > > > > help would be great .. also does anyone have any idea on how much > a > > > set > > > > of > > > > > > rear springs would cost for a bluebird wagon ... cos mine are > > buggered > > > > .. > > > > > > anyway ..any help would be great .. & i'm sorry about the long > > > email!!! > > > > > > Thanx > > > > > > Matt Cherry > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- > > > > > > Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > No unauthorised redistribution of this email > > > > > > http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm > > > > > > http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html > > > > > > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ > > > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > This message was sent through MyMail http://www.mymail.com.au --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
