hmmm ok, body is great and as i said i got a panel
beater to have a look at it and get a quote.
There is one tiny chip on the rear door where it meets
the door jam. This an issue??
Also i am still at a quandry as to how the insides of
the door jam etc gets painted?
do i just take the doors off, get her painted and then
whack the doors on for the final quote.

cheers all


 --- Richard Clough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >
Provided the body preparation is perfect, i.e. flat,
> no panel ripples, unfilled paint scratches or chips,
> and the undercoat/fill is properly applied, a 2 pac
> top coat will look great.
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Jim Little 
>   To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>   Sent: Thursday, 13 June 2002 9:07 AM
>   Subject: RE: (resprays)
> 
> 
>   cheers Ross and Andrew 
> 
>   so i shouldn't worry about this guy just saniding
> her back and then gong over the original acrylic in
> 2pak? 
> 
>   ok i am less worried now. 
> 
>   will it make much difference to the final finish?
> ie as compared to going back to metal and starting
> from scratch? 
> 
>   cheers 
> 
>    
> 
>    
> 
>     Andrew Greenbury <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> 
>     Hi Jim,
> 
>     Yep I have heard similar to Ross. My car when
> done in 2 pack was 
>     not taken to bare metal where a good existing
> foundation of paint 
>     was. I thought it dodgy at the time but
> apparently it is good 
>     practice. 
> 
>     Andrew
> 
>     > My mate who is the spray painter says that
> only the top clear
>     > layer is true 2 pak paint. (ie witha hardener
> added) The base
>     > layers are a modified acrylic so you can put
> the top coat over
>     > them without frying up. He says that with my
> car, we dont need to
>     > go back to bare metal, as the current 2 pak
> systems can go over
>     > just about anything, so long as it gets a good
> key into whats
>     > underneath. My car has had several repairs and
> different panels
>     > from other cars, so i guess we will see how it
> comes up when we
>     > spray it???? 
>     > 
> 
>     > > ----------
>     > > From: Jim! Little
>     > > Reply To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>     > > Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 16:36 PM
>     > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>     > > Subject: Re: (resprays)
>     > > 
>     > > the guy who i bought my 1600 from had
> recntly stripped his car back to metal, prime
> painted etc..did the works. 
>     > > 
>     > > The final paint job ws not great, the paint
> did not look too good. 
>     > > 
>     > > Anyway i recently talked to a spray painter
> about getting a respray, he actually came out to my
> house to give her a look over...second time he has
> done this for me. He said that the body was good and
> straight etc and he would be happy to rub her back
> and give her a few coats of 2pak. thing is 
>     the original paint work was acrylic and i
> figured you would have to get a 2pak undercoat. I
> offered to do the prep work to save some money and
> he said he would have to do the prep work to make
> sure it was good enough to spray ove! r. The work
> would obviously be guaranteed so i am wondering if
> this 
>     is really posible. ie 2pak over acrylic primer
> etc 
>     > > 
>     > > 
>     > > 
>     > > cheers all 
>     > > 
>     > > 
>     > > 
>     > > mark krawczuk wrote: 
>     > > 
>     > > hi, my brother works as a spray painter (
> thats all he does, no body work)
>     > > at bruce lellman crash here in renmark, he
> said that it depends on what
>     > > type of undercoat u use ( i.e 2 pak or
> acrylic) and over what u spray the
>     > > undercoat.
>     > > if you prime over bog repairs ideally you
> should finnish rubbing yoiur
>     > > bog work with 120 grit or finer to minimize
> any sanding scratch coming
>     > > back up thru the paint at a later date.
>     > > 
>     > > 24 hours should be long enough for the
> primer to cure, wether 2pak or
>     > > acrylic.
>     > > if you get any shrinkage coming thru or map
> edgi! ng , its probally more
>     > > likelly to be from the prep work , more so
> than the drying time.
>     > > you can also run innto trouble if you prime
> over acrylic paint that
>     > > has not had the edge feathered properly.
>     > > alot of people tend to blame the undercoat
> or dryingtime than the actual
>     > > prep work.
>     > > 
>     > > something to think about .! 
>     > > mark k
>     > > ----- Original Message -----
>     > > From: "nat P." 
>     > > To: 
>     > > Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 1:24 PM
>     > > Subject: Is there a Beater OR PAINTER
>     > > 
>     > > 
>     > > > Is there a Panel Beater AND/OR a spray
> painter on the
>     > > > list!!!
>     > > >
>     > > > I need to know some info, I alway leave
> the primer to
>     > > > dry for a least 24 hours before I spray
> the top coat!
>     > > > Do I have to wait this long?
>     > > > Cheers NAT
>     > >! ; >
>     > > > http://www.sold.com.au - SOLD.com.au
>     > > > - Find yourself a bargain!
>     > > >
>     > > >
>     > > 
>     > >
>
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