cheers Ross and Andrew
so i shouldn't worry about this guy just saniding her back and then gong over the original acrylic in 2pak?
ok i am less worried now.
will it make much difference to the final finish? ie as compared to going back to metal and starting from scratch?
cheers
Andrew Greenbury <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hi Jim,
Yep I have heard similar to Ross. My car when done in 2 pack was
not taken to bare metal where a good existing foundation of paint
was. I thought it dodgy at the time but apparently it is good
practice.
Andrew
> My mate who is the spray painter says that only the top clear
> layer is true 2 pak paint. (ie witha hardener added) The base
> layers are a modified acrylic so you can put the top coat over
> them without frying up. He says that with my car, we dont need to
> go back to bare metal, as the current 2 pak systems can go over
> just about anything, so long as it gets a good key into whats
> underneath. My car has had several repairs and different panels
> from other cars, so i guess we will see how it comes up when we
> spray it????
>
> > ----------
> > From: Jim! Little
> > Reply To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 16:36 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: (resprays)
> >
> > the guy who i bought my 1600 from had recntly stripped his car back to metal, prime painted etc..did the works.
> >
> > The final paint job ws not great, the paint did not look too good.
> >
> > Anyway i recently talked to a spray painter about getting a respray, he actually came out to my house to give her a look over...second time he has done this for me. He said that the body was good and straight etc and he would be happy to rub her back and give her a few coats of 2pak. thing is
the original paint work was acrylic and i figured you would have to get a 2pak undercoat. I offered to do the prep work to save some money and he said he would have to do the prep work to make sure it was good enough to spray ove! r. The work would obviously be guaranteed so i am wondering if this
is really posible. ie 2pak over acrylic primer etc
> >
> >
> >
> > cheers all
> >
> >
> >
> > mark krawczuk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>wrote:
> >
> > hi, my brother works as a spray painter ( thats all he does, no body work)
> > at bruce lellman crash here in renmark, he said that it depends on what
> > type of undercoat u use ( i.e 2 pak or acrylic) and over what u spray the
> > undercoat.
> > if you prime over bog repairs ideally you should finnish rubbing yoiur
> > bog work with 120 grit or finer to minimize any sanding scratch coming
> > back up thru the paint at a later date.
> >
> > 24 hours should be long enough for the primer to cure, wether 2pak or
> > acrylic.
> > if you get any shrinkage coming thru or map edgi! ng , its probally more
> > likelly to be from the prep work , more so than the drying time.
> > you can also run innto trouble if you prime over acrylic paint that
> > has not had the edge feathered properly.
> > alot of people tend to blame the undercoat or dryingtime than the actual
> > prep work.
> >
> > something to think about .!
> > mark k
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "nat P."
> > To:
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 1:24 PM
> > Subject: Is there a Beater OR PAINTER
> >
> >
> > > Is there a Panel Beater AND/OR a spray painter on the
> > > list!!!
> > >
> > > I need to know some info, I alway leave the primer to
> > > dry for a least 24 hours before I spray the top coat!
> > > Do I have to wait this long?
> > > Cheers NAT
> >! ; >
> > > http://www.sold.com.au - SOLD.com.au
> > > - Find yourself a bargain!
> > >
> > >
> >
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