The chip on the jamb should be filled with putty and rubbed back, or
surrounding paint sanded back to eliminate the fault before final undercoat.
You are right about painting in the jambs.  Remove all doors and hardware.
Prepare and paint in the jambs then replace the doors.  Do the outside coat
as one job to ensure the whole outside look uniform in colour.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Little" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, 22 June 2002 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: (resprays)


> hmmm ok, body is great and as i said i got a panel
> beater to have a look at it and get a quote.
> There is one tiny chip on the rear door where it meets
> the door jam. This an issue??
> Also i am still at a quandry as to how the insides of
> the door jam etc gets painted?
> do i just take the doors off, get her painted and then
> whack the doors on for the final quote.
>
> cheers all
>
>
>  --- Richard Clough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >
> Provided the body preparation is perfect, i.e. flat,
> > no panel ripples, unfilled paint scratches or chips,
> > and the undercoat/fill is properly applied, a 2 pac
> > top coat will look great.
> >   ----- Original Message -----
> >   From: Jim Little
> >   To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >   Sent: Thursday, 13 June 2002 9:07 AM
> >   Subject: RE: (resprays)
> >
> >
> >   cheers Ross and Andrew
> >
> >   so i shouldn't worry about this guy just saniding
> > her back and then gong over the original acrylic in
> > 2pak?
> >
> >   ok i am less worried now.
> >
> >   will it make much difference to the final finish?
> > ie as compared to going back to metal and starting
> > from scratch?
> >
> >   cheers
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >     Andrew Greenbury <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >
> >     Hi Jim,
> >
> >     Yep I have heard similar to Ross. My car when
> > done in 2 pack was
> >     not taken to bare metal where a good existing
> > foundation of paint
> >     was. I thought it dodgy at the time but
> > apparently it is good
> >     practice.
> >
> >     Andrew
> >
> >     > My mate who is the spray painter says that
> > only the top clear
> >     > layer is true 2 pak paint. (ie witha hardener
> > added) The base
> >     > layers are a modified acrylic so you can put
> > the top coat over
> >     > them without frying up. He says that with my
> > car, we dont need to
> >     > go back to bare metal, as the current 2 pak
> > systems can go over
> >     > just about anything, so long as it gets a good
> > key into whats
> >     > underneath. My car has had several repairs and
> > different panels
> >     > from other cars, so i guess we will see how it
> > comes up when we
> >     > spray it????
> >     >
> >
> >     > > ----------
> >     > > From: Jim! Little
> >     > > Reply To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >     > > Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 16:36 PM
> >     > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >     > > Subject: Re: (resprays)
> >     > >
> >     > > the guy who i bought my 1600 from had
> > recntly stripped his car back to metal, prime
> > painted etc..did the works.
> >     > >
> >     > > The final paint job ws not great, the paint
> > did not look too good.
> >     > >
> >     > > Anyway i recently talked to a spray painter
> > about getting a respray, he actually came out to my
> > house to give her a look over...second time he has
> > done this for me. He said that the body was good and
> > straight etc and he would be happy to rub her back
> > and give her a few coats of 2pak. thing is
> >     the original paint work was acrylic and i
> > figured you would have to get a 2pak undercoat. I
> > offered to do the prep work to save some money and
> > he said he would have to do the prep work to make
> > sure it was good enough to spray ove! r. The work
> > would obviously be guaranteed so i am wondering if
> > this
> >     is really posible. ie 2pak over acrylic primer
> > etc
> >     > >
> >     > >
> >     > >
> >     > > cheers all
> >     > >
> >     > >
> >     > >
> >     > > mark krawczuk wrote:
> >     > >
> >     > > hi, my brother works as a spray painter (
> > thats all he does, no body work)
> >     > > at bruce lellman crash here in renmark, he
> > said that it depends on what
> >     > > type of undercoat u use ( i.e 2 pak or
> > acrylic) and over what u spray the
> >     > > undercoat.
> >     > > if you prime over bog repairs ideally you
> > should finnish rubbing yoiur
> >     > > bog work with 120 grit or finer to minimize
> > any sanding scratch coming
> >     > > back up thru the paint at a later date.
> >     > >
> >     > > 24 hours should be long enough for the
> > primer to cure, wether 2pak or
> >     > > acrylic.
> >     > > if you get any shrinkage coming thru or map
> > edgi! ng , its probally more
> >     > > likelly to be from the prep work , more so
> > than the drying time.
> >     > > you can also run innto trouble if you prime
> > over acrylic paint that
> >     > > has not had the edge feathered properly.
> >     > > alot of people tend to blame the undercoat
> > or dryingtime than the actual
> >     > > prep work.
> >     > >
> >     > > something to think about .!
> >     > > mark k
> >     > > ----- Original Message -----
> >     > > From: "nat P."
> >     > > To:
> >     > > Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 1:24 PM
> >     > > Subject: Is there a Beater OR PAINTER
> >     > >
> >     > >
> >     > > > Is there a Panel Beater AND/OR a spray
> > painter on the
> >     > > > list!!!
> >     > > >
> >     > > > I need to know some info, I alway leave
> > the primer to
> >     > > > dry for a least 24 hours before I spray
> > the top coat!
> >     > > > Do I have to wait this long?
> >     > > > Cheers NAT
> >     > >! ; >
> >     > > > http://www.sold.com.au - SOLD.com.au
> >     > > > - Find yourself a bargain!
> >     > > >
> >     > > >
> >     > >
> >     > >
> >
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