Jim,

Sorry dont really know, because my car was done by completely 
stripping everything out of the car and doors, removing all 
doors/panels and spraying non-external surfaces separately, 
spraying boot/door jam/enginebay areas, then putting hinges back 
on doors and panels and reattaching parts before spraying all 
external surfaces in the one go...

Andrew

> 
>  looks good Andrew I also meant to ask, with the inside of the
> guards (only visible when the doors are open) and the insides of
> the door(not the dorro itself) but the part around the door, i
> guess it is the B pillar, front and rear??? How hard is it to
> paint this area, do i have to mask things off etc? the car is
> currently stripped of the insides except for hood liner and some
> dash bits, column etc etc......anyone have an idea? cheers 

>  
>   Andrew Greenbury <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Hi Jim,
> 
> some pics of the finish of my car are below:
> http://opax.swin.edu.au/~185404/rhs_quarter.jpg
> http://opax.swin.edu.au/~185404/lhs_quarter.jpg
> http://opax.swin.edu.au/~185404/rear1.jpg
> 
> As can be seen the finish is pretty good, and backs up what 
> Richard has said. Having said that though, some little bubbles have 
> cropped up recently in a couple of areas. Richard checked this out 
> on the weekend, and said it occured from where thinners have 
> leached out from the underlying paint or something like that, so I 
> will be having a word to the panelbeater when it gets on the road...
> Again evidence of the importance of taking the utmost care during 
> preparation.
> 
> Andrew
> 
> > 
> > cheers Ross and Andrew so i shouldn't worry about this guy just
> > saniding her back and then gong over the original acrylic in 2pak?
> > ok i am less worried now. will it make much difference to the final
> > finish? ie as compared to going back to metal and starting from
> > scratch? cheers 
> 
> 
> Andrew Greenbury wrote: Hi
> > Jim, 
> > 
> > Yep I have heard similar to Ross. My car when done in 2 pack was 
> > not taken to bare metal where a good existing foundation of paint 
> > was. I thought it dodgy at the time but apparently it is good 
> > practice. 
> > 
> > Andrew
> > 
> > > My mate who is the spray painter says that only the top clear
> > > layer is true 2 pak paint. (ie witha hardener added) The base
> > > layers are a modified acrylic so you can put the top coat over
> > > them without frying up. He says that with my car, we dont need to
> > > go back to bare metal, as the current 2 pak systems can go over
> > > just about anything, so long as it gets a good key into whats
> > > underneath. My car has had several repairs and different panels
> > > from other cars, so i guess we will see how it comes up when we
> > > spray it???? 
> > > 
> > 
> > > > ----------
> > > > From: Jim Little
> > > > Reply To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 16:36 PM
> > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > Subject: Re: (resprays)
> > > > 
> > > > the guy who i bought my 1600 from had recntly stripped his car back to metal, 
>prime painted
 e
> tc..did the works. 
> > > > 
> > > > The final paint job ws not great, the paint did not look too good. 
> > > > 
> > > > Anyway i recently talked to a spray painter about getting a respray, he 
>actually came out t
o 
> my house to give her a look over...second time he has done this for me. He said that 
>the body was
 g
> ood and straight etc and he would be happy to rub her back and give her a few coats 
>of 2pak. thin
g 
> is 
> > the original paint work was acrylic and i figured you would have to get a 2pak 
>undercoat. I off
er
> ed to do the prep work to save some money and he said he would have to do the prep 
>work to make s
ur
> e it was good enough to spray over. The work would obviously be guaranteed so i am 
>wondering if t
hi
> s 
> > is really posible. ie 2pak over acrylic primer etc 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > cheers all 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > mark krawczuk wrote: 
> > > > 
> > > > hi, my brother works as a spray painter ( thats all he does, no body work)
> > > > at bruce lellman crash here in renmark, he said that it depends on what
> > > > type of undercoat u use ( i.e 2 pak or acrylic) and over what u spray the
> > > > undercoat.
> > > > if you prime over bog repairs ideally you should finnish rubbing yoiur
> > > > bog work with 120 grit or finer to minimize any sanding scratch coming
> > > > back up thru the paint at a later date.
> > > > 
> > > > 24 hours should be long enough for the primer to cure, wether 2pak or
> > > > acrylic.
> > > > if you get any shrinkage coming thru or map edging , its probally more
> > > > likelly to be from the prep work , more so than the drying time.
> > > > you can also run innto trouble if you prime over acrylic paint that
> > > > has not had the edge feathered properly.
> > > > alot of people tend to blame the undercoat or dryingtime than the actual
> > > > prep work.
> > > > 
> > > > something to think about .! 
> > > > mark k
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "nat P." 
> > > > To: 
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 1:24 PM
> > > > Subject: Is there a Beater OR PAINTER
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > > Is there a Panel Beater AND/OR a spray painter on the
> > > > > list!!!
> > > > >
> > > > > I need to know some info, I alway leave the primer to
> > > > > dry for a least 24 hours before I spray the top coat!
> > > > > Do I have to wait this long?
> > > > > Cheers NAT
> > > > >
> > > > > http://www.sold.com.au - SOLD.com.au
> > > > > - Find yourself a bargain!
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > 
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