im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from 
the engine bay or tailpipe?

i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just popped 
the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.

the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it didn't 
move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i bought 
another cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same 
way and told me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought 
that was nuts but have seen through forums searching it has happened to 
others.  i got a new cam pulley while doing all this work and its still 
fine.  and i have to assume the crank is fine as well since it was good 
running and all the marks are lining up correctly still.

On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote:
>
> Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the cam. 
> If the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing the 
> timing to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a broken 
> locating tooth?
> On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck" <[email protected] <javascript:>> 
> wrote:
>
>> Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to verify 
>> the spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is running?
>> On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004" <[email protected] <javascript:>> 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back 
>>> in with no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds and 
>>> ran some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.
>>>
>>> my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven.  so my 
>>> problems seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars 
>>> running right.  this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and worn 
>>> injector seals and numerous vacuum lines with holes in it. it ran its best 
>>> when hot and on the throttle never gave out on me or died. although it had 
>>> goofy issues with starting consistently and idling a little 
>>> high/rough/inconsistent at times.
>>>
>>> and i see people mention 02 sensors and cts making for a rough running 
>>> car possibly but again this is way worse than that.
>>>
>>> i'm stuck so tomorrow i am going to put the old cams, etc. back on and 
>>> cross my fingers.
>>>
>>> On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 8:41:59 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips 
>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor which 
>>>> was mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even existed 
>>>> or was functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2 sensor 
>>>> has no output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe mode", 
>>>> which is full rich. Hence your poor fuel mileage. I also recalled that the 
>>>> O2 sensor on the Motronic cars is a three wire type, which means it has a 
>>>> heater, so its output will become valid more quickly in order to reduce 
>>>> emissions. All this is bringing back memories of all the 16V trivia I 
>>>> acquired over the years. 😐
>>>>
>>>> ~Holland
>>>> On Feb 27, 2016 20:00, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it all 
>>>>> apart, after this incident.
>>>>>
>>>>> this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this 
>>>>> whole time :).
>>>>>
>>>>> i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was fun to 
>>>>> drive. i was beating on itand it pulled when i stomped on it all the time
>>>>>
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