I changed the diode with one out of a CB650SC and it made no  
difference so my next step is disconnecting at the switch,  Graham

On Mar 16, 2009, at 2:14 AM, Dennis Hammerl wrote:

> or A diode will pass current in only one direction. If it fails and  
> passes in both, the bike indicator will always say N or conversly  
> think it's in gear.. too late to think clearly. Check it for  
> function. One way only. Not open both or closed both.
>
> --- On Mon, 3/16/09, Kyle K.K. <[email protected]> wrote:
> From: Kyle K.K. <[email protected]>
> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Nighthawk S starting problem
> To: [email protected]
> Date: Monday, March 16, 2009, 2:07 AM
>
> Thanks.  On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 1:04 AM, Dennis Hammerl  
> <[email protected]> wrote: > Let's see... I do believe the light  
> is supposed to go on when it's in > neutral.. duh. >
>  Now after that bit of sport, remember the interlock that prevents  
> the bike > from starting unless the clutch lever is in if the  
> interlock has been told > the bike is in gear ? There is a diode in  
> the wiring harness under the gas > tank.. now does that start you  
> thinking Bunky ? > > --- On Mon, 3/16/09, Kyle K.K.  
> <[email protected]> wrote: > > From: Kyle K.K.  
> <[email protected]> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Nighthawk  
> S starting problem > To: [email protected] > Date:  
> Monday, March 16, 2009, 1:53 AM > > Interesting. What about a N  
> indicator light that pops on when the clutch is >  pulled in OR  
> when it's in Neutral?  On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 12:38 AM, > Dennis  
> Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > Disconnect the wiring from  
> the > switch on the engine. Now what does it say ? > If it still  
> says N, there is > a short to ground somewhere above the switch. >
>  When the indivual circuits > are grounded, they indicate. The  
> display should > be off without any wires > connected to the  
> switch. I'm betting on a misplaced > wire. Some fools think > that  
> black wires and green ones are all grounds. > uhun... black is > 12V 
> (switched) , green is ground. Household wiring does not > apply. >  
> I have > two '86 700's ... I like the RWB models. Bought it new.  
> The other is > a BR > one. my first 700 was an '84 in BR. > > ---  
> On Mon, 3/16/09, Graham Rogers > <[email protected]> wrote: > >  
> From: Graham Rogers <[email protected]> > > Subject: [Nighthawk  
> Lovers] Re: Nighthawk S starting problem > To: >   
> [email protected] > Date: Monday, March 16, 2009,  
> 12:51 AM >> > I wondered if anyone would notice Dennis.  It's an  
> '86.  When I bought > it, > the tank had been replaced with an  
> '85.  I had the side covers and > tail
>  > piece painted and decided to go with 85 decals for two reasons.   
> The > ones on > the tank were good and I prefer the 85 cosmetics  
> over the '86. Now > I'm ready > to fix the N/gear indicator light  
> problem (always staying on N). >  Where do I > start? Graham > On  
> Mar 15, 2009, at 9:01 PM, Dennis Hammerl > wrote: > > It's an  
> interesting bike. What year is it supposed to be ? The > cosmetics  
> are > '85, the wheels are '86. The motor might have been painted ?  
> > but they look > like '86 too. '84 and '85 have polished rims and  
> cylinder > fins and head > cover. '86 is all black. > > --- On Sun,  
> 3/15/09, Graham > Rogers <[email protected]> wrote: > > From: Graham  
> Rogers >  <[email protected]> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re:  
> Nighthawk S starting > problem > To:  
> [email protected] > Date: Sunday, March 15, > 2009,  
> 5:07 AM > > I don't know. There
>  was red lettering on the ends, they > were peeling so I > took  
> them off.  Could they have been FZ, F something I > think? > On Mar  
> 15, 2009, at 12:58 AM, Dennis Hammerl wrote: > > Pretty >  
> motorcycle. Very handsome. What make slip-ons ? > > --- On Sat,  
> 3/14/09, > Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote: > > From: Graham  
> Rogers > <[email protected]> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re:  
> Nighthawk S starting > problem > To:  
> [email protected] > Date: Saturday, March 14, >  
> 2009, 8:07 PM > > Here's the Nighthawk in question - I've solved  
> the choke > problem (it was in > the carbs dummy).  Thanks to  
> Dennis.  Now I have a > sticking front caliper > and the N light  
> always on.  At least now it starts > at the >  touch of the >  
> button, kiwi > <#1> > On Feb 25, 2009, at 5:49 PM, Kyle Munz >  
> wrote: > > I can remember fighting this same
>  problem on my dirtbike as a > kid. After > finding the solution I  
> bought a sticker for the bike that read > "Turn the gas > on  
> dummy!". Not to say you're a dummy, but the problem does > sound  
> like a > lack of fuel somewhere along the line. > > -Kyle > > > On  
> > Wed, Feb 25, 2009 at 5:46 PM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]>  
> wrote: >> >> > I cranked  the motor over - it tried to start, at  
> least on one or two cyl. >>> Then I checked the plugs.  They were  
> dry on the tips and porcelain but a >>> little wet on the rim of  
> the plug.  It didn't smell like gas however.  I >>> then tried to  
> start the bike with my hand restricting the air flow at the >>> air  
> filter.  It did start but died when I moved my 'hand choke' I >  
> probably >> could have gotten it started that >  way.  So, it looks  
> like the choke isn't >> working eh?  Now what? >> Graham
>  >>> On Feb 25, 2009, at 12:21 AM, Dennis Hammerl wrote: >> >>  
> Spraying it > optimizes the conditions needed for starting.  
> Which... means >> the chokes > aren't working. If it has a strong  
> vacuum when cranking if you >> hold your > hand over any carb  
> throat, the chokes aren't passing any fuel. WHY >> ? The > "gas  
> chokes" are very simple valve devices. If they have access to >>  
> fuel > from the float chamber and they are open to the bores when  
> activated, >> all > should work. With the throttle plates closed,  
> the high vacuum (or , more >> > properly, low pressure) should draw  
> fuel up through the choke circuits and >>> into the motor. It's as  
> simple as a faucet. I don't want to get into any >>> abstract at  
> this point. Are the plugs getting wet when you crank the > motor >>  
> with the chioke operated ? Knowing that is a >  must before  
> proceding. If they
>  >> are, we look elsewhere. If not, we stay > in the carbs. >> >>  
> --- On Tue, 2/24/09, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> > wrote: >>  
> >> From: Graham Rogers <[email protected]> >> Subject: [Nighthawk >  
> Lovers] Re: Nighthawk S starting problem >> To: >  
> [email protected] >> Date: Tuesday, February 24,  
> 2009, 8:05 > AM >> >> Tried starting the bike this morning and  
> there doesn't seem to be > any >> improvement.  It would 'bubble'  
> along like it was trying to catch (it > acted >> like a weak spark)  
> but again it took starting fluid and the choke > seemed not >> to  
> play apart.  Once it had 'caught', restricting the air flow >  
> through the >> air filter with my hand significantly increased the  
> rpms. >  Maybe I should >> also check the state of the battery huh?  
> >> Incidently I > noticed the fuel gauge didn't
>  work until I revved the >  engine >> significantly and held the  
> revs. That was a new one to me, >  Graham >> On Feb 23, 2009, at  
> 11:02 PM, Dennis Hammerl wrote: >> >> Let us > know how that works  
> out. The neutral wiring is grounded and that's >> why it > always  
> shows N / green light. Let's get into that later. You have >> >  
> multiple issues. One at a time. >> >> --- On Mon, 2/23/09, kiwi >  
> <[email protected]> wrote: >> >> From: kiwi <[email protected]> >>  
> Subject: > [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Nighthawk S starting problem >>  
> To: "Nighthawk > Motorcycle Lovers!"  
> <[email protected]> >> Date: Monday, > February 23,  
> 2009, 1:16 PM >> >> Blasted those tiny holes that allow the gas >  
> through when using the >> choke with compressed air and >>  spent 2  
> hours > reinstalling the carbs. It >> still
>  took starting fluid to get the bike > started BUT, not very much  
> >> and the >  choke worked a little.  I'll see how it  starts >>   
> tomorrow when >> it is > back to winter temperature. >> >> Second  
> problem with this NH >>  is the > neutral/gear indicator.  It reads  
> N >> all the time and won't show what gear > the bike is in. I  
> found a little >> black box under the tail section that I > think  
> is part of the >>  N/gear >> >> indicator system.  Is there a way  
> to > check it? >> Third problem should be simple.  The left front  
> turn signal is >>> 'bright' when ignition is on but will not blink  
> when  it should.  The >> > others work as they should.  That left  
> one shines a lot brighter than >> >> > the right front when  
> ignition is on. >> >> On Feb 22, 11:11 pm, Dennis > Hammerl  
> <[email protected]> wrote: >>
>  > I will assume your carb clean was a > complete operation. Let's  
> examine >> >> how the choke works. The cable opens > valves >  that  
> will >>  permit raw fuel to be >> sucked into the motor during >  
> cranking. Now,  lets say that works fine.Your >> plugs >> should be  
> wet > after cranking for a short while. Y-N ? The most >>  common  
> >>  cause of >> > the plugs being dry after cranking is the  
> throttle plates being open too >> > far and >> >> causing  
> insufficient vacuum. Same as opening the throttle > while trying  
> >>  to start. >> When the intake air flow is too low, no fuel >  
> will be drawn in from the >> choke >> circuit. If the plugs are  
> wet, you're > flooding the motor. >> >> > We start here. Additional  
> checks of compression > and a leak-down may be >> > in >> order. >>  
> > This may take
>  time to resolve. > Get at it. >> > >> > --- On Sun, 2/22/09,  
> Graham Rogers <[email protected]> > wrote: >> >> > From: Graham  
> Rogers <[email protected]> >  >> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers]  
> Nighthawk S starting problem >> > To: >  
> [email protected] >> >> > Date: Sunday, February  
> 22, 2009, > 6:18 PM >> > >> > I have a 1986 Nighthawk S.  It ran  
> before I got it but > always took >> > starter fluid in the air  
> filter >>  to get it going.  I > pulled the carbs >> > and >> >>   
> thoroughly cleaned them and used to > compressed air in all the >>  
> > holes.  However the bike still will not start > without stater  
> fluid >> > and even then it takes along time with the fluid. >  I  
> noticed that >> >> > using the choke seemed to make no difference  
> at all > so,
>  thinking that >> > perhaps the choke isn't working at all I  
> removed the > carbs again >> > (they are terrible to remove) and  
> did what I could toi > ensure the >> >> > choke was working right.   
> The mechanism moves as it >  should and I used >> > compressed  air  
> in the holes to the where I >> > presume the choke opens. >> >> >  
> Now, before I reinstall the carbs, any > suggestions?  Could the >>  
> > problem have been the choke or is there > something else that  
> would >> > cause the same problem.  By the way, once the >>>  bike  
> was warmed up, it >> >> > ran fine - just when it's cold I have to  
> > use >>  starting fluid,  Graham >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>  
> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > > >
>  > > > > > > > > > > > > >
>
>
>
>
> >
>
>


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