Interesting. What about a N indicator light that pops on when the
clutch is pulled in OR when it's in Neutral?

On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 12:38 AM, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
> Disconnect the wiring from the switch on the engine. Now what does it say ?
> If it still says N, there is a short to ground somewhere above the switch.
> When the indivual circuits are grounded, they indicate. The display should
> be off without any wires connected to the switch. I'm betting on a misplaced
> wire. Some fools think that black wires and green ones are all grounds.
> uhun... black is 12V(switched) , green is ground. Household wiring does not
> apply.
> I have two '86 700's ... I like the RWB models. Bought it new. The other is
> a BR one. my first 700 was an '84 in BR.
>
> --- On Mon, 3/16/09, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> From: Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Nighthawk S starting problem
> To: [email protected]
> Date: Monday, March 16, 2009, 12:51 AM
>
> I wondered if anyone would notice Dennis.  It's an '86.  When I bought it,
> the tank had been replaced with an '85.  I had the side covers and tail
> piece painted and decided to go with 85 decals for two reasons.  The ones on
> the tank were good and I prefer the 85 cosmetics over the '86. Now I'm ready
> to fix the N/gear indicator light problem (always staying on N).  Where do I
> start? Graham
> On Mar 15, 2009, at 9:01 PM, Dennis Hammerl wrote:
>
> It's an interesting bike. What year is it supposed to be ? The cosmetics are
> '85, the wheels are '86. The motor might have been painted ? but they look
> like '86 too. '84 and '85 have polished rims and cylinder fins and head
> cover. '86 is all black.
>
> --- On Sun, 3/15/09, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> From: Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Nighthawk S starting problem
> To: [email protected]
> Date: Sunday, March 15, 2009, 5:07 AM
>
> I don't know. There was red lettering on the ends, they were peeling so I
> took them off.  Could they have been FZ, F something I think?
> On Mar 15, 2009, at 12:58 AM, Dennis Hammerl wrote:
>
> Pretty motorcycle. Very handsome. What make slip-ons ?
>
> --- On Sat, 3/14/09, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> From: Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Nighthawk S starting problem
> To: [email protected]
> Date: Saturday, March 14, 2009, 8:07 PM
>
> Here's the Nighthawk in question - I've solved the choke problem (it was in
> the carbs dummy).  Thanks to Dennis.  Now I have a sticking front caliper
> and the N light always on.  At least now it starts at the touch of the
> button, kiwi
> <#1>
> On Feb 25, 2009, at 5:49 PM, Kyle Munz wrote:
>
> I can remember fighting this same problem on my dirtbike as a kid. After
> finding the solution I bought a sticker for the bike that read "Turn the gas
> on dummy!". Not to say you're a dummy, but the problem does sound like a
> lack of fuel somewhere along the line.
>
> -Kyle
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 25, 2009 at 5:46 PM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> I cranked  the motor over - it tried to start, at least on one or two cyl.
>> Then I checked the plugs.  They were dry on the tips and porcelain but a
>> little wet on the rim of the plug.  It didn't smell like gas however.  I
>> then tried to start the bike with my hand restricting the air flow at the
>> air filter.  It did start but died when I moved my 'hand choke' I probably
>> could have gotten it started that way.  So, it looks like the choke isn't
>> working eh?  Now what?
>> Graham
>> On Feb 25, 2009, at 12:21 AM, Dennis Hammerl wrote:
>>
>> Spraying it optimizes the conditions needed for starting. Which... means
>> the chokes aren't working. If it has a strong vacuum when cranking if you
>> hold your hand over any carb throat, the chokes aren't passing any fuel. WHY
>> ? The "gas chokes" are very simple valve devices. If they have access to
>> fuel from the float chamber and they are open to the bores when activated,
>> all should work. With the throttle plates closed, the high vacuum (or , more
>> properly, low pressure) should draw fuel up through the choke circuits and
>> into the motor. It's as simple as a faucet. I don't want to get into any
>> abstract at this point. Are the plugs getting wet when you crank the motor
>> with the chioke operated ? Knowing that is a must before proceding. If they
>> are, we look elsewhere. If not, we stay in the carbs.
>>
>> --- On Tue, 2/24/09, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> From: Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
>> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Nighthawk S starting problem
>> To: [email protected]
>> Date: Tuesday, February 24, 2009, 8:05 AM
>>
>> Tried starting the bike this morning and there doesn't seem to be any
>> improvement.  It would 'bubble' along like it was trying to catch (it acted
>> like a weak spark) but again it took starting fluid and the choke seemed not
>> to play apart.  Once it had 'caught', restricting the air flow through the
>> air filter with my hand significantly increased the rpms.  Maybe I should
>> also check the state of the battery huh?
>> Incidently I noticed the fuel gauge didn't work until I revved the engine
>> significantly and held the revs. That was a new one to me,  Graham
>> On Feb 23, 2009, at 11:02 PM, Dennis Hammerl wrote:
>>
>> Let us know how that works out. The neutral wiring is grounded and that's
>> why it always shows N / green light. Let's get into that later. You have
>> multiple issues. One at a time.
>>
>> --- On Mon, 2/23/09, kiwi <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> From: kiwi <[email protected]>
>> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Nighthawk S starting problem
>> To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]>
>> Date: Monday, February 23, 2009, 1:16 PM
>>
>> Blasted those tiny holes that allow the gas through when using the
>> choke with compressed air and
>>  spent 2 hours reinstalling the carbs. It
>> still took starting fluid to get the bike started BUT, not very much
>> and the choke worked a little.  I'll see how it  starts
>>  tomorrow when
>> it is back to winter temperature.
>>
>> Second problem with this NH
>>  is the neutral/gear indicator.  It reads N
>> all the time and won't show what gear the bike is in. I found a little
>> black box under the tail section that I think is part of the
>>  N/gear
>>
>> indicator system.  Is there a way to check it?
>> Third problem should be simple.  The left front turn signal is
>> 'bright' when ignition is on but will not blink when  it should.  The
>> others work as they should.  That left one shines a lot brighter than
>>
>> the right front when ignition is on.
>>
>> On Feb 22, 11:11 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
>> > I will assume your carb clean was a complete operation. Let's examine
>>
>> how the choke works. The cable opens valves that will
>>  permit raw fuel to be
>> sucked into the motor during cranking. Now,  lets say that works fine.Your
>> plugs
>> should be wet after cranking for a short while. Y-N ? The most
>>  common
>>  cause of
>> the plugs being dry after cranking is the throttle plates being open too
>> far and
>>
>> causing insufficient vacuum. Same as opening the throttle while trying
>>  to start.
>> When the intake air flow is too low, no fuel will be drawn in from the
>> choke
>> circuit. If the plugs are wet, you're flooding the motor.
>>
>> > We start here. Additional checks of compression and a leak-down may be
>> > in
>> order.
>> > This may take time to resolve. Get at it.
>> >
>> > --- On Sun, 2/22/09, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> > From: Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
>> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Nighthawk S starting problem
>> > To: [email protected]
>>
>> > Date: Sunday, February 22, 2009, 6:18 PM
>> >
>> > I have a 1986 Nighthawk S.  It ran before I got it but always took
>> > starter fluid in the air filter
>>  to get it going.  I pulled the carbs
>> > and
>>
>>  thoroughly cleaned them and used to compressed air in all the
>> > holes.  However the bike still will not start without stater fluid
>> > and even then it takes along time with the fluid.  I noticed that
>>
>> > using the choke seemed to make no difference at all so, thinking that
>> > perhaps the choke isn't working at all I removed the carbs again
>> > (they are terrible to remove) and did what I could toi ensure the
>>
>> > choke was working right.  The mechanism moves as it should and I used
>> > compressed  air in the holes to the where I
>>  presume the choke opens.
>>
>> > Now, before I reinstall the carbs, any suggestions?  Could the
>> > problem have been the choke or is there something else that would
>> > cause the same problem.  By the way, once the
>>  bike was warmed up, it
>>
>> > ran fine - just when it's cold I have to use
>>  starting fluid,  Graham
>>
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