Thanks Kyle, understanding a wiring diagram may be beyond me but I'll  
try.

On Mar 16, 2009, at 1:00 AM, Kyle Munz wrote:

> Here's the wiring diagram Dennis scanned for me a while back (see  
> attached). You're looking at the "changing indicator" and "Changing  
> switch". I'd start with the switch first myself.
>
> -Kyle
>
> On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 12:51 AM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]>  
> wrote:
> I wondered if anyone would notice Dennis.  It's an '86.  When I  
> bought it, the tank had been replaced with an '85.  I had the side  
> covers and tail piece painted and decided to go with 85 decals for  
> two reasons.  The ones on the tank were good and I prefer the 85  
> cosmetics over the '86. Now I'm ready to fix the N/gear indicator  
> light problem (always staying on N).  Where do I start? Graham
>
> On Mar 15, 2009, at 9:01 PM, Dennis Hammerl wrote:
>
>> It's an interesting bike. What year is it supposed to be ? The  
>> cosmetics are '85, the wheels are '86. The motor might have been  
>> painted ? but they look like '86 too. '84 and '85 have polished  
>> rims and cylinder fins and head cover. '86 is all black.
>>
>> --- On Sun, 3/15/09, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
>> From: Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
>> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Nighthawk S starting problem
>> To: [email protected]
>> Date: Sunday, March 15, 2009, 5:07 AM
>>
>> I don't know. There was red lettering on the ends, they were  
>> peeling so I took them off.  Could they have been FZ, F something  
>> I think?
>>
>> On Mar 15, 2009, at 12:58 AM, Dennis Hammerl wrote:
>>
>>> Pretty motorcycle. Very handsome. What make slip-ons ?
>>>
>>> --- On Sat, 3/14/09, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> From: Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
>>> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Nighthawk S starting problem
>>> To: [email protected]
>>> Date: Saturday, March 14, 2009, 8:07 PM
>>>
>>> Here's the Nighthawk in question - I've solved the choke problem  
>>> (it was in the carbs dummy).  Thanks to Dennis.  Now I have a  
>>> sticking front caliper and the N light always on.  At least now  
>>> it starts at the touch of the button, kiwi
>>>
>>> <#1>
>>> On Feb 25, 2009, at 5:49 PM, Kyle Munz wrote:
>>>
>>>> I can remember fighting this same problem on my dirtbike as a  
>>>> kid. After finding the solution I bought a sticker for the bike  
>>>> that read "Turn the gas on dummy!". Not to say you're a dummy,  
>>>> but the problem does sound like a lack of fuel somewhere along  
>>>> the line.
>>>>
>>>> -Kyle
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Feb 25, 2009 at 5:46 PM, Graham Rogers  
>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> I cranked  the motor over - it tried to start, at least on one  
>>>> or two cyl. Then I checked the plugs.  They were dry on the tips  
>>>> and porcelain but a little wet on the rim of the plug.  It  
>>>> didn't smell like gas however.  I then tried to start the bike  
>>>> with my hand restricting the air flow at the air filter.  It did  
>>>> start but died when I moved my 'hand choke' I probably could  
>>>> have gotten it started that way.  So, it looks like the choke  
>>>> isn't working eh?  Now what?
>>>> Graham
>>>>
>>>> On Feb 25, 2009, at 12:21 AM, Dennis Hammerl wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Spraying it optimizes the conditions needed for starting.  
>>>>> Which... means the chokes aren't working. If it has a strong  
>>>>> vacuum when cranking if you hold your hand over any carb  
>>>>> throat, the chokes aren't passing any fuel. WHY ? The "gas  
>>>>> chokes" are very simple valve devices. If they have access to  
>>>>> fuel from the float chamber and they are open to the bores when  
>>>>> activated, all should work. With the throttle plates closed,  
>>>>> the high vacuum (or , more properly, low pressure) should draw  
>>>>> fuel up through the choke circuits and into the motor. It's as  
>>>>> simple as a faucet. I don't want to get into any abstract at  
>>>>> this point. Are the plugs getting wet when you crank the motor  
>>>>> with the chioke operated ? Knowing that is a must before  
>>>>> proceding. If they are, we look elsewhere. If not, we stay in  
>>>>> the carbs.
>>>>>
>>>>> --- On Tue, 2/24/09, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> From: Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
>>>>> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Nighthawk S starting problem
>>>>> To: [email protected]
>>>>> Date: Tuesday, February 24, 2009, 8:05 AM
>>>>>
>>>>> Tried starting the bike this morning and there doesn't seem to  
>>>>> be any improvement.  It would 'bubble' along like it was trying  
>>>>> to catch (it acted like a weak spark) but again it took  
>>>>> starting fluid and the choke seemed not to play apart.  Once it  
>>>>> had 'caught', restricting the air flow through the air filter  
>>>>> with my hand significantly increased the rpms.  Maybe I should  
>>>>> also check the state of the battery huh?
>>>>> Incidently I noticed the fuel gauge didn't work until I revved  
>>>>> the engine significantly and held the revs. That was a new one  
>>>>> to me,  Graham
>>>>>
>>>>> On Feb 23, 2009, at 11:02 PM, Dennis Hammerl wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Let us know how that works out. The neutral wiring is grounded  
>>>>>> and that's why it always shows N / green light. Let's get into  
>>>>>> that later. You have multiple issues. One at a time.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --- On Mon, 2/23/09, kiwi <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>> From: kiwi <[email protected]>
>>>>>> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Nighthawk S starting problem
>>>>>> To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!"  
>>>>>> <[email protected]>
>>>>>> Date: Monday, February 23, 2009, 1:16 PM
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Blasted those tiny holes that allow the gas through when using  
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> choke with compressed air and
>>>>>>  spent 2 hours reinstalling the carbs. It
>>>>>> still took starting fluid to get the bike started BUT, not  
>>>>>> very much
>>>>>>
>>>>>> and the choke worked a little.  I'll see how it
>>>>>>  starts
>>>>>>  tomorrow when
>>>>>> it is back to winter temperature.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Second problem with this NH is the neutral/gear indicator.  It  
>>>>>> reads N
>>>>>> all the time and won't show what gear the bike is in. I found  
>>>>>> a little
>>>>>>
>>>>>> black box under the tail section that I think is part of the
>>>>>>  N/gear
>>>>>>
>>>>>> indicator system.  Is there a way to check it?
>>>>>> Third problem should be simple.  The left front turn signal is
>>>>>> 'bright' when ignition is on but will not blink when  it  
>>>>>> should.  The
>>>>>>
>>>>>> others work as they should.  That left one shines a lot  
>>>>>> brighter than
>>>>>>
>>>>>> the right front when ignition is on.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Feb 22, 11:11 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> > I will assume your carb clean was a complete operation.  
>>>>>> Let's examine
>>>>>>
>>>>>> how the choke works. The cable opens valves that will
>>>>>>  permit raw fuel to be
>>>>>> sucked into the motor during cranking. Now,
>>>>>>  lets say that works fine.Your plugs
>>>>>> should be wet after cranking for a short while. Y-N ? The most  
>>>>>> common
>>>>>>  cause of
>>>>>> the plugs being dry after cranking is the throttle plates  
>>>>>> being open too far and
>>>>>>
>>>>>> causing insufficient vacuum. Same as opening the throttle  
>>>>>> while trying
>>>>>>
>>>>>>  to start.
>>>>>> When the intake air flow is too low, no fuel will be drawn in  
>>>>>> from the choke
>>>>>> circuit. If the plugs are wet, you're flooding the motor.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> > We start here. Additional checks of compression and a leak- 
>>>>>> down may be in
>>>>>>
>>>>>> order.
>>>>>> > This may take time to resolve. Get at it.
>>>>>> >
>>>>>> > --- On Sun, 2/22/09, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> > From: Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Nighthawk S starting problem
>>>>>> > To: [email protected]
>>>>>>
>>>>>> > Date: Sunday, February 22, 2009, 6:18 PM
>>>>>>
>>>>>> >
>>>>>> > I have a 1986 Nighthawk S.  It ran before I got it but  
>>>>>> always took
>>>>>> > starter fluid in the air filter
>>>>>>  to get it going.  I pulled the carbs
>>>>>> > and
>>>>>>
>>>>>>  thoroughly cleaned them and used to compressed air in all the
>>>>>>
>>>>>> > holes.  However the bike still will not start without stater  
>>>>>> fluid
>>>>>> > and even then it takes along time with the fluid.  I noticed  
>>>>>> that
>>>>>>
>>>>>> > using the choke seemed to make no difference at all so,  
>>>>>> thinking that
>>>>>>
>>>>>> > perhaps the choke isn't working at all I removed the carbs  
>>>>>> again
>>>>>> > (they are terrible to remove) and did what I could toi  
>>>>>> ensure the
>>>>>>
>>>>>> > choke was working right.  The mechanism moves as it should  
>>>>>> and I used
>>>>>>
>>>>>> > compressed
>>>>>>  air in the holes to the where I
>>>>>>  presume the choke opens.
>>>>>> > Now, before I reinstall the carbs, any suggestions?  Could the
>>>>>> > problem have been the choke or is there something else that  
>>>>>> would
>>>>>> > cause the same problem.  By the way, once the
>>>>>>
>>>>>>  bike was warmed up, it
>>>>>>
>>>>>> > ran fine - just when it's cold I have to use
>>>>>>  starting fluid,  Graham
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> <scan0001.jpg>


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