All american cars, specially from the 60's, 70's and 80's are quite famous
and common in Venezuela. The Chevy's Nova, Malibu, Impala, Caprice... the
dodge Dart, and many others. Funny thing is that most of them are still
rolling on the street. My father drives an 85 Jeep Wagoneer and a 79 Chevy
Pannel (the really long one). I don't think they make cars like that
anymore.

Javier.

On Fri, Jan 1, 2010 at 1:12 PM, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:

> When I was a kid living in Venezuela my parents drove a No Va :)
>
>
>
> -Kyle
> -Sent from Houston, TX, United States
>
> On Fri, Jan 1, 2010 at 8:55 AM, Kim Paddock <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Well, Chevy named one "Nova" which means "no go" in Spanish. Not a great
>> hit with those south of the border...
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Kyle Munz <[email protected]>
>> *To:* [email protected]
>> *Sent:* Thu, December 31, 2009 5:40:00 PM
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>
>> My mother-in-law drives one, I think about it every time she tries to
>> pronounce it.
>>
>> -Kyle
>> -Sent from Houston, TX, United States
>>
>> On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 6:38 PM, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]>wrote:
>>
>>>  Why would the Japanese ever name a car Corolla ?
>>> Think about that awhile.
>>>
>>> --- On *Thu, 12/31/09, Kyle Munz <[email protected]>* wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]>
>>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>> To: [email protected]
>>> Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 7:35 PM
>>>
>>>
>>> Well I'll stick with the Honda manuals with their mixed up L's and R's
>>> rather than Clymer with dead wrong wiring diagrams.
>>>
>>> -Kyle
>>> -Sent from Houston, TX, United States
>>>
>>> On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 6:16 PM, Dennis Hammerl 
>>> <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]>
>>> > wrote:
>>>
>>>>  My understanding is Clymer manuals will no longer be published. They
>>>> all got jobs with the administration.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --- On *Thu, 12/31/09, Kyle Munz 
>>>> <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]>
>>>> >* wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]>
>>>> >
>>>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>>> To: 
>>>> [email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]>
>>>>  Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 7:01 PM
>>>>
>>>> Mr Clymer will lie to you and not even feel guilty about it.
>>>>
>>>> -Kyle
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 5:46 PM, 
>>>> <[email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]>
>>>> > wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>  Good Job! Hope everything else goes much smoother.
>>>>>
>>>>> (The photo is My Dad & I trying to solve a signal problem with the
>>>>> incorrect Clymer schematic)
>>>>>
>>>>> My Mom says, "smile for the picture"!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Dec 31, 2009 05:20:44 PM, 
>>>>> [email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]>wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>  Crud!
>>>>>
>>>>> How do I attach a picture in a reply again (it doesn't seem so obvious
>>>>> - though i figured it out some months ago!!)?
>>>>>
>>>>> On Dec 31, 3:18 pm, oldschoolgwin wrote:
>>>>> > Houston is clapping – yikes that was a scary one.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > I ended up heating the fork tube with Mr. Propano and then cooling
>>>>> (in
>>>>> > theory – but effectiveness?) the top cap bolt with a can of
>>>>> compressed
>>>>> > office cleaner upside down (a good gusher). Then cranked on it with a
>>>>> > 3 ft breaker bar about as hard as I could and it moved.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > It’s an ugly bolt now though!
>>>>> >
>>>>> > IMG_3534-40%.JPG
>>>>> >
>>>>> > On Dec 31, 7:46 am, stanley/ Randolph wrote:
>>>>> >
>>>>> >
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > I would use engine oil. It actually penetrates better. Takes a
>>>>> little longer but works better.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > Stanley
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > --- On Wed, 12/30/09, Kim Paddock wrote:
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > From: Kim Paddock
>>>>> > > Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>>>> > > To: 
>>>>> > > [email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]>
>>>>> > > Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 1:59 PM
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > Hit it with a good penetrating oil and let it sit....that usually
>>>>> works for me.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > From: Dennis Hammerl
>>>>> > > To: 
>>>>> > > [email protected]<http://mc/[email protected]>
>>>>> > > Sent: Tue, December 29, 2009 11:23:57 PM
>>>>> > > Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > I don't have much of an answer for you. Don't know how much I've
>>>>> put on 'em but it's been enough that two guys had to hold the bike from
>>>>> spinning on the center stand. That's with my 2' bar and 3' tube combo. 5' 
>>>>> X
>>>>> 150lb weakling = ? I wonder if it's cross threaded or just corroded on. If
>>>>> you got one off, you see that they are fine thread and have an O ring. 
>>>>> i've
>>>>> heated some stuff like that (not a fork though) and then applied an ice 
>>>>> cube
>>>>> to the cap to shrink it quickly. Could spray it with something cold too.
>>>>> Pulling on the socket while heating might do it. The socket would act as a
>>>>> heat sink and keep the cap cooler. If you can get another cap, you might
>>>>> have to crack off the top rim with a small chisel. (leave the hex) The rim
>>>>> is where the pressure is. Once off, unless cross threaded, it should back
>>>>> out easy. Good luck.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > --- On Wed, 12/30/09, oldschoolgwin wrote:
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > From: oldschoolgwin
>>>>> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>>>> > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!"
>>>>> > > Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 12:42 AM
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > Thanks Dennnis. I managed to get a socket that grips it much
>>>>> better.
>>>>> > > In this case 27mm is the same as 1 1/16" (well actually 1 1/16' is
>>>>> > > just slightly smaller to my advantage).
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > This socket grips it much better but i've put at least 100 lbs on
>>>>> it
>>>>> > > and it won't budge. The scary part is what will give first as i
>>>>> push
>>>>> > > harder - knowing the bolt head is not 100% to begin with - yikes.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > I tried a propane torch and heated teh fork tube up to maybe
>>>>> 200-250F
>>>>> > > and applied the 100 ft-lbs - no luck. Not sure if this would work
>>>>> > > since the alumninum bolt expands faster than the steel fork tube.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > Is there any other method too try before just increasing torque?
>>>>> How
>>>>> > > about an Impact gun - not sure if this would be effectitve on an
>>>>> > > aluminum hex head???
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > On Dec 27, 8:17 pm, Dennis Hammerl wrote:
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > > Well, first off it isn't 1 1/16". It's metric. The proper size
>>>>> 1/2" drive 6 point socket should do. I prefer the "flank-drive" variety
>>>>> because they apply contact in the middle of the flats. My personal choice 
>>>>> is
>>>>> the Kowa brand (Japan). They have a rather pronounced "flank-drive" I 
>>>>> leave
>>>>> the tubes in the fork and only loosen the top clamp. A 24" bar and a 3' 
>>>>> tube
>>>>> gets most anything. Sometimes you need someone to hold the bike. check 
>>>>> with
>>>>> any Jap bike dealers to see if any of their techs use Kowa sockets and try
>>>>> to borrow one. The chisel is the last resort cause I have to buy the
>>>>> replacement.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > > --- On Sun, 12/27/09, oldschoolgwin wrote:
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > > From: oldschoolgwin
>>>>> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Fork tube cap is - el stucko!
>>>>> > > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!"
>>>>> > > > Date: Sunday, December 27, 2009, 9:36 PM
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > > Hi All.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > > Well I'm installing new fork seals on my 83 650.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > > The left fork tube cap is stuck and it appears it was a victim of
>>>>> some
>>>>> > > > previous shade tree mechanic with a 1 size fits all wrench -
>>>>> rounded
>>>>> > > > corners on that cap and not much left.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > > Any ideas on how to ge this off. A six point 1 1/16' socket
>>>>> doesn't
>>>>> > > > want to grip it enough to break it loose.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > > I guess if worse comes to worse i could drill two 1/4" through
>>>>> holes
>>>>> > > > and make a pinned spanner to remove it - but that is just more
>>>>> effort
>>>>> > > > than i like.
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > > Anyone know any tricks? Chisel and hammer at the edge? Options
>>>>> are
>>>>> > > > looking so good!
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > > --
>>>>> >
>>>>> > > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the
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>>>>> .
>>>>> >
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