I removed the pilot screws and I was able to access 1 of the passages
that is directly under the pilot screw inside of the chamber but there
are also four other holes of the exact same diameter that I could  not
reach(they are about an inch further inside of the carb chamber). I
was wondering how I could reach these to clean them out.

PO? If you are talking about the guy who sold me the bike I trust
him....he is my brother in-law. I don't think he was giving me any bs.
It is just the very tip of the pilot screw that is broken off and I
can still screw it in all the way if I put enough pressure on it with
my thumb.

On Jan 7, 4:29 pm, "Allen Thomas" <[email protected]> wrote:
> The passages are accessed by removing the pilot screws so it sounds like you 
> got them. However if the points of those screws are buggered up they won't 
> regulate fuel properly, sound like the PO is full of BS on that one.
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dustin Mcclure <[email protected]>
>
> Sender: [email protected]
> Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 07:55:53
> To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!<[email protected]>
> Reply-To: [email protected]
> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Just started cleaning my carbs
>
> Luckily I watched a few videos on carb cleaning before I started. I
> see that one of the big mistakes people make doing this first time is
> marring the jets do to overtightening. I have a shop manual that tells
> me the proper torque for every screw in the carb I just need to pick
> up a torque wrench before I stick my carbs back on.
>
> So far I have already cleaned all of the float chambers. I pulled out
> the main and slow jets and cleaned them with a guitar string of the
> appropriate width and cleaned the outside with a scotch pad. I made
> sure when I was shooting the carb cleaner through all of the
> passageways that I removed the diaphragms( I just didn't to remove
> these at first because I have  heard that if they swell they may
> become unusable). I removed all 4 pilot screws and cleaned them and
> their passageways. I could not however find the passageway that leads
> to the idle circuit passages. Could you tell me where this is?
>
> From what I have seen so far the carburetor is in pretty good shape.
> The inside looked pretty clean and the carb cleaner that I had shot
> through all of the passages with ease. The only problem that I saw was
> that one of the idle screws was broken off at the top but the guy who
> owned the bike before me said that two of the idle screws had been
> like that before and he replaced one(the bike ran fine then).
>
> Thanks for your time. I plan on putting the carbs back on tonight to
> see what happens. Dustin.
>
> On Jan 6, 10:33 pm, Allen Thomas <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Don't get the carb cleaner on the rubber parts,it pulls the oils from the
> > rubber and makes them brittle, example: the diaphragms you didn't remove..
> > My experience was that the idle circuit passages are usually what gets
> > clogged, if you look at the engine side of the carburator barrels you will
> > see some small holes (open the butterflies) these are the ones. Though if
> > you have the carbs off the bike anyway you should probably take the time to
> > remove the float bowls and clean the main and slow jets too. The best way to
> > clean these passages is to remove the pilot jet screws (turn in to
> > LIGHTLY SEATED first recording the # turns), and the choke plungers, then
> > alternate shooting carb cleaner with compressed air, until you are satisfied
> > that air/fluid shoots out of all of them equally well. Make sure you wear
> > eye protection as the liquid can get you in the face real easy. If you can't
> > get fluid to squirt out of these holes then you will need to soak the carbs
> > which will require a full tear down, and that is a bit of work. also if you
> > remove them from the bar you will have to completely re-sync them. I
> > have read that cooking them in a crock pot full of pinesol or lemon juice on
> > low, does wonders and won't destroy the rubber/plastic parts, but I have
> > never tried it.
>
> > Oh yea, empty the tank of the old crud gas, clean the petcock (look for rust
> > particles as you may have to clean/seal you're tank), replace any inline
> > filters, get a can of seafoam and run that through you're first tank of
> > fresh fuel, and put in some seafoam/stabil if you are not going to run the
> > bike for more than two weeks.
>
> > Thats my recommendations anyway, Welcome to the group, and post some
> > pictures!
> > On Thu, Jan 6, 2011 at 5:51 PM, Dustin Mcclure
> > <[email protected]>wrote:
>
> > >     I just purchased a 1984 Nighthawk 700S from my brother in-law. I
> > > was aware when I started looking at the bike that it was not running
> > > so I had a friend of my parents, who just happens to be a Honda
> > > motorcycle mechanic, come and look at the bike. He told me it just
> > > sounded like the carbs need to be cleaned. So, last night I removed
> > > and disassembled the carbs(except for the diaphragms) and I just
> > > picked up some carb cleaner today along with a bottle of sea foam.
>
> > >     I am not really too  much of a mechanic  but I understand the
> > > general function of the carburetors. I was just wondering if anyone
> > > would be able to tell me of any specific passageways that get clogged
> > > easier than others on these carbs. Is there anything I should pay
> > > close attention to? The reason I am asking is because the carburetors
> > > are really not all that dirty.
>
> > >     A little more information on the bike. When my brother in-law
> > > bought it the bike ran perfectly(that was within the last year and a
> > > half). It seems like it just slowly went down hill until it wouldn't
> > > start. I have already disassembled the petcock on the bike and cleaned
> > > it too. The bike turns over fine it just won't fire up. Any
> > > information would be very helpful.
>
> > > Thanks.
>
> > > Dustin.
>
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