It looks like more work, but it's MUCH easier to go ahead and pull the battery, starter motor, airfilter, and voltage regulator so you can slide the airbox back and get more room. For the Y boots between the airbox and the carbs use a hairdryer or heatgun to soften them before you clamp them down.
-Kyle On Sat, Jan 8, 2011 at 3:04 PM, Dustin Mcclure <[email protected]>wrote: > That is exactly what I was having a problem with. I could not get the > carbs wedged into place because there was not enough space. Thanks for > the advice. > > On Jan 8, 2:52 pm, James O'Gorman <[email protected]> wrote: > > Hmm... > > > > I hook up the throttle cables before sliding the carbs in from the left > side of the bike. Once down there, I finagle the choke cable into place. > > > > Then roll the bank of carbs up and down while pushing the forward into > the engine. Be sure the rings that tighten the carbs to the intake are > loose. the rubber boots that go on the other side of the carbs (from the > airbox) go in last. You can take the seat off and loosen the two bolts that > hold the air box in place and slide it back about 1/2" to help. It is these > boots that are a major PITA. I've gotten better at removing/replacing them, > but it still takes about 15 minutes for each of the two boots on my 83 650. > > > > Good luck! > > > > On Jan 8, 2011, at 2:44 PM, Dustin Mcclure wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > So, this is the first time that I have ever removed the carburetors on > > > a motorcycle. I have everything cleaned and now I am trying to get > > > them back on. It took me about an hour and a half to remove the > > > carburetors but it is taking me forever to get them back on. Any tips? > > > > > On Jan 8, 7:26 am, Dustin Mcclure <[email protected]> wrote: > > >> I removed the pilot screws and I was able to access 1 of the passages > > >> that is directly under the pilot screw inside of the chamber but there > > >> are also four other holes of the exact same diameter that I could not > > >> reach(they are about an inch further inside of the carb chamber). I > > >> was wondering how I could reach these to clean them out. > > > > >> PO? If you are talking about the guy who sold me the bike I trust > > >> him....he is my brother in-law. I don't think he was giving me any bs. > > >> It is just the very tip of the pilot screw that is broken off and I > > >> can still screw it in all the way if I put enough pressure on it with > > >> my thumb. > > > > >> On Jan 7, 4:29 pm, "Allen Thomas" <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > >>> The passages are accessed by removing the pilot screws so it sounds > like you got them. However if the points of those screws are buggered up > they won't regulate fuel properly, sound like the PO is full of BS on that > one. > > >>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T > > > > >>> -----Original Message----- > > >>> From: Dustin Mcclure <[email protected]> > > > > >>> Sender: [email protected] > > >>> Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 07:55:53 > > >>> To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!<[email protected]> > > >>> Reply-To: [email protected] > > >>> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Just started cleaning my carbs > > > > >>> Luckily I watched a few videos on carb cleaning before I started. I > > >>> see that one of the big mistakes people make doing this first time is > > >>> marring the jets do to overtightening. I have a shop manual that > tells > > >>> me the proper torque for every screw in the carb I just need to pick > > >>> up a torque wrench before I stick my carbs back on. > > > > >>> So far I have already cleaned all of the float chambers. I pulled out > > >>> the main and slow jets and cleaned them with a guitar string of the > > >>> appropriate width and cleaned the outside with a scotch pad. I made > > >>> sure when I was shooting the carb cleaner through all of the > > >>> passageways that I removed the diaphragms( I just didn't to remove > > >>> these at first because I have heard that if they swell they may > > >>> become unusable). I removed all 4 pilot screws and cleaned them and > > >>> their passageways. I could not however find the passageway that leads > > >>> to the idle circuit passages. Could you tell me where this is? > > > > >>> From what I have seen so far the carburetor is in pretty good shape. > > >>> The inside looked pretty clean and the carb cleaner that I had shot > > >>> through all of the passages with ease. The only problem that I saw > was > > >>> that one of the idle screws was broken off at the top but the guy who > > >>> owned the bike before me said that two of the idle screws had been > > >>> like that before and he replaced one(the bike ran fine then). > > > > >>> Thanks for your time. I plan on putting the carbs back on tonight to > > >>> see what happens. Dustin. > > > > >>> On Jan 6, 10:33 pm, Allen Thomas <[email protected]> wrote: > > >>>> Don't get the carb cleaner on the rubber parts,it pulls the oils > from the > > >>>> rubber and makes them brittle, example: the diaphragms you didn't > remove.. > > >>>> My experience was that the idle circuit passages are usually what > gets > > >>>> clogged, if you look at the engine side of the carburator barrels > you will > > >>>> see some small holes (open the butterflies) these are the ones. > Though if > > >>>> you have the carbs off the bike anyway you should probably take the > time to > > >>>> remove the float bowls and clean the main and slow jets too. The > best way to > > >>>> clean these passages is to remove the pilot jet screws (turn in to > > >>>> LIGHTLY SEATED first recording the # turns), and the choke plungers, > then > > >>>> alternate shooting carb cleaner with compressed air, until you are > satisfied > > >>>> that air/fluid shoots out of all of them equally well. Make sure you > wear > > >>>> eye protection as the liquid can get you in the face real easy. If > you can't > > >>>> get fluid to squirt out of these holes then you will need to soak > the carbs > > >>>> which will require a full tear down, and that is a bit of work. also > if you > > >>>> remove them from the bar you will have to completely re-sync them. I > > >>>> have read that cooking them in a crock pot full of pinesol or lemon > juice on > > >>>> low, does wonders and won't destroy the rubber/plastic parts, but I > have > > >>>> never tried it. > > > > >>>> Oh yea, empty the tank of the old crud gas, clean the petcock (look > for rust > > >>>> particles as you may have to clean/seal you're tank), replace any > inline > > >>>> filters, get a can of seafoam and run that through you're first tank > of > > >>>> fresh fuel, and put in some seafoam/stabil if you are not going to > run the > > >>>> bike for more than two weeks. > > > > >>>> Thats my recommendations anyway, Welcome to the group, and post some > > >>>> pictures! > > >>>> On Thu, Jan 6, 2011 at 5:51 PM, Dustin Mcclure > > >>>> <[email protected]>wrote: > > > > >>>>> I just purchased a 1984 Nighthawk 700S from my brother in-law. > I > > >>>>> was aware when I started looking at the bike that it was not > running > > >>>>> so I had a friend of my parents, who just happens to be a Honda > > >>>>> motorcycle mechanic, come and look at the bike. He told me it just > > >>>>> sounded like the carbs need to be cleaned. So, last night I removed > > >>>>> and disassembled the carbs(except for the diaphragms) and I just > > >>>>> picked up some carb cleaner today along with a bottle of sea foam. > > > > >>>>> I am not really too much of a mechanic but I understand the > > >>>>> general function of the carburetors. I was just wondering if anyone > > >>>>> would be able to tell me of any specific passageways that get > clogged > > >>>>> easier than others on these carbs. Is there anything I should pay > > >>>>> close attention to? The reason I am asking is because the > carburetors > > >>>>> are really not all that dirty. > > > > >>>>> A little more information on the bike. When my brother in-law > > >>>>> bought it the bike ran perfectly(that was within the last year and > a > > >>>>> half). It seems like it just slowly went down hill until it > wouldn't > > >>>>> start. I have already disassembled the petcock on the bike and > cleaned > > >>>>> it too. The bike turns over fine it just won't fire up. Any > > >>>>> information would be very helpful. > > > > >>>>> Thanks. > > > > >>>>> Dustin. > > > > >>>>> -- > > >>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google > Groups > > >>>>> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. > > >>>>> To post to this group, send email to > [email protected]. > > >>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > >>>>> [email protected]<nighthawk_lovers%[email protected]><nighthawk_lovers%2Bunsubscrib > [email protected]> > > >>>>> . > > >>>>> For more options, visit this group at > > >>>>>http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. > > > > >>> -- > > >>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google > Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. > > >>> To post to this group, send email to > [email protected]. > > >>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]<nighthawk_lovers%[email protected]> > . > > >>> For more options, visit this group athttp:// > groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. > > > > > -- > > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google > Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. > > > To post to this group, send email to [email protected] > . > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]<nighthawk_lovers%[email protected]> > . > > > For more options, visit this group athttp:// > groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]<nighthawk_lovers%[email protected]> > . > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. 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