Graham,
Dumb question - if you pull the turn signals out and
separate them from the harness - do you have power at the appropriate
wires there? If you do, its in the socket or the wires leading to it.
If not, your break is between that point in the harness and the rest
of the harness.
-Joey
On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 3:04 PM, Graham Rogers
<[email protected]> wrote:
> thanks Ross, I already thought of that
>
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 1:13 PM, Ross M. Jamison wrote:
>
> Graham,
> Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent will
> not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor between
> the led & power source.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Ross M. Jamison
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> thanks Kurt, I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind on
> something else for a while, it's too boggled, Graham
>
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>
> Graham, to recap:
>
> You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
>
> The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the
> switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect
> the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a
> certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip.
> This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops
> flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over
> again.
>
> If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie somewhere
> upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
>
> When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the relay;
> the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you have
> voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch contacts.
> Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly you'll just
> get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
>
> Kurt
>
> On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> Allen, I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't
>> find it. I'll try again today and report back. It seems that I have 12 v
>> from the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate
>> the turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it
>> should if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the
>> running lights go out when activating the turn signal). However the green
>> and white is not hot to the bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried
>> jumping wires from the relay to various places along the wire harness. Just
>> give me carbs to clean instead! Graham
>>
>> On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
>>
>> Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire?
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> ________________________________
>> From: "Allen Thomas" <[email protected]>
>> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +0000
>> To: Nightwawk Lovers<[email protected]>
>> ReplyTo: [email protected]
>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>
>> That is what the givi cases are for.
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>> ________________________________
>> From: Kurt Nolte <[email protected]>
>> Sender: [email protected]
>> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
>> To: <[email protected]>
>> ReplyTo: [email protected]
>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>
>> You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away. :/
>>
>> Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...
>>
>> -Kurt
>>
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