You really should let the manufacturer’s of those LED’s know about that “in
series” hookup. They are telling everyone (incorrectly?) that they need to be
across the bulb:
LED LOAD RESISTOR & RECON 12-V RELAY KITPart # 26420 - LED Light Bulb Load
Resistor Kit
RECON Part # 26420 - LED Bulb Load Resistor 6 Ohm / 50 Watt For
Signal or Brake light with Dual Filament LED bulbs
LED bulbs may cause some newer vehicles to indicate a bulb is burnt
out (because of their low power consumption). Some cars indicate this by
increasing the flash rate of the turn signals, some turn on a bad bulb
indicator. This can be remedied with our Load Resistors wired across the turn
signal bulbs to simulate a filament bulb load.
This 6 Ohm, 50 Watt resistors can be connected across the turn
signal bulbs to simulate the load of a regular filament bulb (2 Amp load). This
will solve LED related turn signal problems such as hyper flashing or burnt out
bulb indications. This LED Load Resistor can be use with most signal or brake
light which uses SINGLE or DUAL FILAMENT LED light bulbs, like the 7443, 1157,
3157, 4157, 1156, 7440, 3156 etc
http://www.gorecon.com/product.php?pk=242
From: Kurt Nolte
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 12:38 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
Resistors for LEDs must go in series with the diode, not across the leads. If
you bridge the leads you don't get much bump in resistance or current; diodes
have a fixed voltage drop, and elements in parallel MUST match voltage drops.
Kurt
On Aug 27, 2012 1:36 PM, "Hanghank" <[email protected]> wrote:
Double check that. I know only a little about LED’s but they are low load,
and I believe the resistor goes across the two leads to the LED to increase the
load, or current consumption. Putting them in series with the power would
reduce the voltage/current even more. Ironically, current operated relays
require additional load to be added to the circuit, negating the benefit of the
reduced current. No resistor needed except for current operated relays. Why
not add a “solid state” relay and enjoy the energy savings?
From: Ross M. Jamison
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 12:13 PM
To: [email protected]
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
Graham,
Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent will
not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor between the
led & power source.
Thank you,
Ross M. Jamison
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
thanks Kurt, I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind on
something else for a while, it's too boggled, Graham
On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
Graham, to recap:
You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the
switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect the
pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a certain
amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip. This causes
the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops flowing, the
strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over again.
If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie
somewhere upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the
relay; the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you have
voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch contacts.
Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly you'll just get
intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
Kurt
On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers" <[email protected]>
wrote:
Allen, I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't
find it. I'll try again today and report back. It seems that I have 12 v from
the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate the turn
signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it should if the
gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the running lights go out
when activating the turn signal). However the green and white is not hot to the
bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried jumping wires from the relay to
various places along the wire harness. Just give me carbs to clean instead!
Graham
On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire?
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Allen Thomas" <[email protected]>
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +0000
To: Nightwawk Lovers<[email protected]>
ReplyTo: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
That is what the givi cases are for.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Kurt Nolte <[email protected]>
Sender: [email protected]
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
To: <[email protected]>
ReplyTo: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away.
:/
Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...
-Kurt
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