Wow. Did I open a can of worms. All I wanted to do is have a check in disparity 
of bulbs. I recommend we blame gremlins & have the bike excercized.

Thank you,

Ross M. Jamison
Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 27, 2012, at 1:25 PM, Kurt Nolte <[email protected]> wrote:

> "ballast resistor" is the term I typically hear.
> 
> An LEDs output does not depend on the voltage across it, like a standard 
> filament. Normal lights use current through a wire to make heat; light is the 
> byproduct. Since V=IR, and the resistance is fixed, more voltage across the 
> element gives you more current through it, thus more light.
> 
> An LED produces light from the interaction of electrons across a junction of 
> two dissimilar materials. The voltage drop across the junction is fixed by 
> properties of the junction; more voltage can damage the diode, not help it.
> 
> If the diode is the only draw in the circuit, current will be very HIGH, as 
> the resistance of the wire is low and the voltage is high. "Drop in" LEDs 
> have a VERY large resistor in series with the diode, to shed voltage down to 
> the needed level without drawing high current.
> 
> Looking at it that way, the product page is correct, and my initial 
> suggestion was bad; putting the ballast resistor pack across the terminals of 
> the lamp unit (diode + resistor) will decrease resistance and increase 
> current, allowing the load dependent flasher to work.
> 
> My comment did not assume a retail lamp, w/ resistor already in the circuit.
> 
> Kurt
> 
> On Aug 27, 2012 2:13 PM, "Ross M. Jamison" <[email protected]> 
> wrote:
> Your right. I called it a resistor but that may not be what it really is
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Ross M. Jamison
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 12:36 PM, "Hanghank" <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
>> Double check that.  I know only a little about LED’s but they are low load, 
>> and I believe the resistor goes across the two leads to the LED to increase 
>> the load, or current consumption.  Putting them in series  with the power 
>> would reduce the voltage/current even more.  Ironically, current operated 
>> relays require additional load to be added to the circuit, negating the 
>> benefit of the reduced current.  No resistor needed except for current 
>> operated relays.  Why not add a “solid state” relay and enjoy the energy 
>> savings?
>>  
>> From: Ross M. Jamison
>> Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 12:13 PM
>> To: [email protected]
>> Cc: [email protected]
>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>  
>> Graham,
>> Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent will 
>> not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor between 
>> the led & power source.
>> 
>> Thank you,
>>  
>> Ross M. Jamison
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind on 
>>> something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham
>>>  
>>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Graham, to recap:
>>>> 
>>>> You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
>>>> 
>>>> The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the 
>>>> switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and 
>>>> connect the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs 
>>>> draws a certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a 
>>>> metal strip. This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. 
>>>> Current stops flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the 
>>>> cycle all over again.
>>>> 
>>>> If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie somewhere 
>>>> upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
>>>> 
>>>> When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the 
>>>> relay; the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you 
>>>> have voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch 
>>>> contacts. Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly 
>>>> you'll just get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
>>>> 
>>>> Kurt
>>>> 
>>>> On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers" <[email protected]> 
>>>> wrote:
>>>> Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't 
>>>> find it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v 
>>>> from the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I 
>>>> activate the turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which 
>>>> may be it should if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights 
>>>> and the running lights go out when activating the turn signal). However 
>>>> the green and white is not hot to the bulb when I activate the turn 
>>>> signal. I tried jumping wires from the relay to various places along the 
>>>> wire harness. Just give me carbs to clean instead! Graham
>>>>  
>>>> On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire?
>>>>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>>>>> From: "Allen Thomas" <[email protected]>
>>>>> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +0000
>>>>> To: Nightwawk Lovers<[email protected]>
>>>>> ReplyTo: [email protected]
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>>>>  
>>>>> That is what the givi cases are for.
>>>>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>>>>> From: Kurt Nolte <[email protected]>
>>>>> Sender: [email protected]
>>>>> Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
>>>>> To: <[email protected]>
>>>>> ReplyTo: [email protected]
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>>>>  
>>>>> You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away. :/
>>>>>  
>>>>> Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...
>>>>>  
>>>>> -Kurt
>>>>>  
>>>>> -- 
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>>>>  
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