Sorry, sometimes I launch into "lecture mode" with these things. Didn't
mean to offend anyone.

Kurt
On Aug 27, 2012 2:39 PM, "Ross M. Jamison" <[email protected]>
wrote:

> Wow. Did I open a can of worms. All I wanted to do is have a check in
> disparity of bulbs. I recommend we blame gremlins & have the bike
> excercized.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Ross M. Jamison
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 27, 2012, at 1:25 PM, Kurt Nolte <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> "ballast resistor" is the term I typically hear.
>
> An LEDs output does not depend on the voltage across it, like a standard
> filament. Normal lights use current through a wire to make heat; light is
> the byproduct. Since V=IR, and the resistance is fixed, more voltage across
> the element gives you more current through it, thus more light.
>
> An LED produces light from the interaction of electrons across a junction
> of two dissimilar materials. The voltage drop across the junction is fixed
> by properties of the junction; more voltage can damage the diode, not help
> it.
>
> If the diode is the only draw in the circuit, current will be very HIGH,
> as the resistance of the wire is low and the voltage is high. "Drop in"
> LEDs have a VERY large resistor in series with the diode, to shed voltage
> down to the needed level without drawing high current.
>
> Looking at it that way, the product page is correct, and my initial
> suggestion was bad; putting the ballast resistor pack across the terminals
> of the lamp unit (diode + resistor) will decrease resistance and increase
> current, allowing the load dependent flasher to work.
>
> My comment did not assume a retail lamp, w/ resistor already in the
> circuit.
>
> Kurt
> On Aug 27, 2012 2:13 PM, "Ross M. Jamison" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> Your right. I called it a resistor but that may not be what it really is
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>> Ross M. Jamison
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 12:36 PM, "Hanghank" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>  Double check that.  I know only a little about LED’s but they are low
>> load, and I believe the resistor goes across the two leads to the LED to
>> *increase* the load, or current consumption.  Putting them in series
>> with the power would reduce the voltage/current even more.  Ironically,
>> current operated relays require additional load to be added to the circuit,
>> negating the benefit of the reduced current.  No resistor needed except for
>> current operated relays.  Why not add a “solid state” relay and enjoy the
>> energy savings?
>>
>>  *From:* Ross M. Jamison <[email protected]>
>> *Sent:* Monday, August 27, 2012 12:13 PM
>> *To:* [email protected]
>> *Cc:* [email protected]
>> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>
>>  Graham,
>> Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent
>> will not work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor
>> between the led & power source.
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>> Ross M. Jamison
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>  thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind
>> on something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham
>>
>>  On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>>
>>  Graham, to recap:
>>
>> You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.
>>
>> The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the
>> switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect
>> the pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a
>> certain amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip.
>> This causes the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops
>> flowing, the strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over
>> again.
>>
>> If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie
>> somewhere upstream of the switch, including the switch itself.
>>
>> When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the
>> relay; the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you
>> have voltage at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch
>> contacts. Unplug the wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly
>> you'll just get intermittent voltage, which isn't useful for checks.
>>
>> Kurt
>> On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't
>>> find it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v
>>> from the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate
>>> the turn signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it
>>> should if the gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the
>>> running lights go out when activating the turn signal). However the green
>>> and white is not hot to the bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried
>>> jumping wires from the relay to various places along the wire harness. Just
>>> give me carbs to clean instead! Graham
>>>
>>>  On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
>>>
>>>  Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire?
>>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From: *"Allen Thomas" <[email protected]>
>>> *Date: *Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +0000
>>> *To: *Nightwawk Lovers<[email protected]>
>>> *ReplyTo: *[email protected]
>>> *Subject: *Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>>
>>> That is what the givi cases are for.
>>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From: *Kurt Nolte <[email protected]>
>>> *Sender: *[email protected]
>>> *Date: *Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
>>> *To: *<[email protected]>
>>> *ReplyTo: *[email protected]
>>> *Subject: *Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!
>>>
>>> You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away. :/
>>>
>>> Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...
>>>
>>> -Kurt
>>>
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