You are quite welcome. Keep in mind that this finishing technique was applied by very low cost labor provided with minimum training and most were paid on a per-piece finished basis. For bare wood the usual prep was to stain it with a thin cut of shellac with dye in it. This colored shellac was actually the 2nd coat as the first coat was just a plain wash coat to seal the wood.Between coats a very light sanding with extra fine flint paper to cut off the nubs that pop up.

On 1/13/19 12:33 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
I definitely didn't see any of that the first time around! Wow, this really 
gives me something to work with, thank you! I'll try a couple spare pieces of 
wood for practice. Thanks, Rich! And thank you for sending it again!


On Jan 13, 2019, at 8:20 AM, Rich via Phono-L <> wrote:

That is why I resent the info. E-mail is an unreliable communications medium at 

Generally speaking the base coats are highly thinned filtered buglac which is 
the basic shellac that once dissolved has to set for 2-3 days for the wax and 
bug parts to settle out. This has a rich red-amber color and it then thinned to 
the consistency of water, use a high dollar professional watercolor brush only 
for best results. Apply enough coats of shellac to almost fill the blemish and 
then use the violin varnish for the top coat. Use rottenstone and hard felt pad 
with paraffin oil to clean up the edges once varnish has dried. Using Behlen 
Behcol thinner is highly recommended, do not use cheap methanol as a 
substitute. If Behcol thinner is not obtainable then use Everclear from liquor 
store. This sounds complex but it actually goes very fast and easy once you 
collect all the materials. Google can find the Behlen products. <-buglac source & Behlen products


On 1/13/19 5:17 AM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
I'm sure you may have, but I never saw it. Either way I appreciate the info.
*From:* Phono-L <> on behalf of Rich via Phono-L 
*Sent:* Saturday, January 12, 2019 5:39:10 PM
*Cc:* Rich
*Subject:* Re: [Phono-L] Credenza X and VE8-12X coming along!
I previously answered your finish question in an earlier post.
The closest thing to what was used OEM is Behlen Violin Varnish, can be
difficult to find but it works well. The base coats were plain shellac
followed by a top coat of the Violin Varnish.
The term VARNISH does not describe a specific product or finishing
technique. It is used as a generic term to describe a finishing material
that contains some type of oil. In many cases it will be a non-drying
type of finish that has a elastic like consistency.
On 1/11/19 3:39 PM, Robert Wright via Phono-L wrote:
Thanks (again) Ron! I ended up using dish soap and a toothbrush to get most of 
it removed, but I'll try the WD-40 method. My main concern was that the arms 
that move with the tonearm didn't move easily at all, but I think the hot water 
I was using melted away a good bit of the gunk that was making it so stiff. 
After a thorough drying, I oiled all the moving parts with 3-in-one, then 
rubbed an oily paper towel over all of it to guard against any kind of moisture 
left over.
Anyone know about the factory varnish situation? I know it's probably a bit 
involved, but what am I (considering) getting into, exactly?
On Jan 11, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Ron L'Herault via Phono-L < 
<>> wrote:
You only need to remove old oil from the joints and hand crud from the finish.  
 I’d use (have used) WD040 and a toothbrush to clean the mechanism and spray 
cleaner like Fantastic to clean the gold.  Do not use polish.  Relubricate 
moving parts with light oil.  Put oil on the pad to avoid squeal.
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