Re: Re: Re: [TANKS] 3-D printing

Sun, 06 Nov 2011 06:04:43 -0800

 Hi Derek, I agree, it is very unique  There is plenty of room for all the extra fun components like smoke, sound, and animatronic figures.  V2 had a 128mm KwK 44 L/55 gun with coaxial 75mm KwK 44 L/36.5 gun, so the 75mm can be the paintball marker and the main gun can be fitted with a blank firer and recoil.  Also considering installing an expresso machine for those cold days in Gettusburg.  :)
 
John  
 
 
On 11/05/11, Derek Engelhaupt<[email protected]> wrote:
I've thought about building a Maus too, just because I think it's a cool tank....

Derek

On Sat, Nov 5, 2011 at 5:18 PM, <[email protected]> wrote:
 Hi Chris, thanks for the reply.  I'm attaching a couple of pics of what I would like to create next, in particular the running gear and tracks. 
 
And thanks for the offer to stop by it is greatly appreciated.  As you may know I am basically new to the group and really have no knowledge or skills when it comes to buidling tanks.  Frank has been kind enough to take me under his wings, beat me up a little and show me the error of my ways, all the while teaching me some really great stuff and having some great fun.  Also being a part of and listening to the conversations of this group have taught me a lot also, so I truly appreciate your kindness.  :)
 
Your Tiger Gear looks very nice, how did you create the wheel?
 
Thanks,
John
 
 
On 11/04/11, [email protected] wrote:
John i'd be interested in seeing some of the parts you are planing to produce as some of them may require being made in parts such as a sprocket wheel, double wheels and even idler wheels, but that's if you want to make your parts look like they should vs how they can be fudged to look something like it.
 
i am not sure how much Frank's knowledge is with making 2+ part molds, casting rods into the casting and then removing them (such as for axles, and pins - tracks) and also casting in brass rod sections to be used as a bushing in parts (such as in track links so the resin doesn't wear - or at least as fast as it would without them. but if you want to do the work with Frank, but you guys are not sure about something, give a shout rather than taking a chance on miss-molding something and wasting materials i can offer pictures of set ups and prepping more, or if you were close enough, come out and see what i have here, take some notes, figure out how to set up the parts so the molds work their best, by all means stop by.
 
as for parts like your sprockets and road wheels, while tweaking them, you may wish to make some of the areas thicker, such as the outer rings and sprocket teeth.
 
what would be ideal is if you could have someone make the sprocket ring itself from a heavier aluminum, and bolt it to the sprocket wheel. and now that i am thinking of it, the most worn spot you'd be looking at for all of this will be the track links where the sprocket teeth make contact (sprocket too if it's made from resin)
 
for the Tiger i have here, i decided to go with the older road wheels with the rubber tire. after looking around for an ideal way to make the rubber wheel part, i opted for something slightly different. i reduced the dia of the wheel by about 1/16" then had 2 groves to accept O-rings. the finished wheel will be painted so the outer area is black where the rubber wheel would be and the O-rings will blend in. they'll also help cushion the rid just a bit and help prevent any premature wear between the resin wheels and the resin track links.
 
I also had the wheel made to accept a small bearing
 
here are some pictures of the master i had made, this first one shows the face. the bearing and O-rings are in place
 
this picture is of the rear of the master. the hole is large enough that the mounting bolt and a piece of brass rod (used as a space sleeve) will clear the wheel itself and allow for free spinning
 
here is a better view of the O-rings in place
 
here you an see the round recess groves to accept the O-rings and leave no space for play
 
 

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