Curious exchange rate...must be the stupidity tax.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 13 November 2014 20:58, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> For things like that a fibreglass fishing rods work even better. I think
> that Home Depot has those. Li
For things like that a fibreglass fishing rods work even better. I think that
Home Depot has those. Like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-12-ft-Splinter-Guard-Fish-Rod-Set-56312/204178241
Btw. they are $35 in the US and $61 in Canada.
Marek (in Ottawa)
From: CnC-List [ma
Use Marlow rope here
slippery.
-Original Message-
From: "Rex & Jennifer Delay via CnC-List"
Sent: 2014-11-13 7:39 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Subject: Stus-List Hi, Just bought a 1985 C&C 41
Recently bought a 41 with full knowledge that there were some issues, mainly
with the ri
Is anyone on the list familiar with a 1983 C&C 29, called Arias, that is in
the Portsmouth/Norfolk/Hampton area?
I have a friend who is looking for a boat, as you may recall, and I've
pretty much sold her on buying a C&C between 29 and 35 feet. Arias is listed
on Craigslist right now, and my f
my little a rosanna rodanna...
-- Original Message --
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
To: "'Chuck S'" ,
Subject: Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2014 20:59:58 -0500
My local machine shop said he could make me a set of stainless handrails for my
38 for
My local machine shop said he could make me a set of stainless handrails for my
38 for about $250, using the teak rails as a pattern to get the curvature and
hole spacing right. It’s apparently a pretty straightforward process.
I said to myself “Do I really want my classic C&C to look like a
A metal electrician's fish and a strong flashlight would help here. The boom is
crowded inside. Two reeflines and the outhaul? My outhaul has a block and
tackle purchase inside the boom, so I would start with the reef lines.
What I would do: Untie only one reefline at a time from the outboard e
Hi Rex, welcome to the club.
Assuming the end of your boom is open, the easiest way to unravel the mess
inside the boom is to put messenger lines on both control lines and pull
them to the end of the boom, where you should be able to fish them out and
fix the problem.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C
Recently bought a 41 with full knowledge that there were some issues, mainly
with the rig. Have replaced all the wire/rope halyards with rope, in the
process of replacing the running backs and checkstays with amsteel. Have
replaced the mainsheet system with a 6/1 cleated at the traveller rather
t
Rick
Could we get a few pics of your arrangement.
Gary
Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:
> I had to get into the area inside the transom of my 38 for several reasons,
> during the refit in 2009. Among those reasons were replacing the exha
This sounds very much like the Viking 33. Although the handrails fit onto the
splash guard and I could not find any handrails to replace them with. So, I
went on craigslist and found a guy selling rough cut teak boards and I made my
handrails from those using the old ones as a guild for spacin
Hi Joe,
I've had my handrails off for 5 years now. The outer ones were through bolted
to a matched pair inside, using 3" long # 8 SS machine screws and nuts. I'd
love to replace the outer ones w SS like all the new boats, but haven't found a
good supplier. Mine are sanded and olied and ready to
I think you've got it. The elbow either rusts through or gets plugged.
The rust is hard to avoid but the plugging can be avoided by "blowing" out
the coke. By running the engine as hard (> 80% load) and long as possible,
as often as possible.
I have no idea when/if mine has ever been replaced by
My little 1977 26 footer also has inside and outside teak rails joined to one
another with brass screws through the headliner. I’ll have to replace one or
both of the outsider rails soon as one of them snapped off in my hand the other
day.
Steve Staten
C’est La Vie, C&C26
Grand Lake
Langley, O
I don’t have inside grab rails or a headliner for that matter. Maybe those
amenities were sacrificed along with the shower and v- berth on the “custom” ¾
ton special
Or maybe my headliner was removed although it seems the inside of the cabin
ceiling was painted several times. The layout is s
Joe, I know the 30-1 isn't the same boat but Anchovy's grab rails are wood
screwed from inside the cabin THROUGH the cabin grab rails.
Rick Bushie
Anchovy 30-1
Worton Creek, MD
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Email address:
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Touche's aft handrails are screwed from underneath with flat head screws.
The screws have finish washers for support against the headliner.
I've removed and re-bedded them a couple times.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 1:08 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
c
Mine were screwed in from below . I am trying to remember, I think 2 smaller
wood screws went through the head liner into the rail, and a larger wood screw
in between them went through the overhead rail . So, the lower handholds
inside the cabin are held in place with one large screw, embedde
I found a place in Florida that has replacement rails with the correct
12" on center spacing. The generic ones at West Marine, etc, are not the
correct spacing.
http://www.teakmarinewoodwork.com/hand_rails.htm
If you plan to varnish, make sure you specify NO FINISH, or they will
automatically
I don't know about your boat, but on mine, the original handrails had
machine screws embedded in them under plugs. They were snugged down by
nuts that were accessible through a series of holes in the headliner
that were normally covered by long trim panels. When I replaced the
handrails, I also
The originals were screwed in with wood screws. There should be access plugs
in the liner, at least there was on Freya IV. Of course there is a problem if
the originals are toothpicks. I think C&C had them custom made for the 35 mk
I. Current store bought do not line up with the original hol
The foam idea is great. Never thought of the plug issue – maybe sand off the
boat and finish when back on. As for the looped handrails aft – anyone know how
they come off??
Thanks
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan
Mccorison via CnC-L
That’s Andy Miller, from up near Bayfield, WI where I keep my boat. He does
pretty nice work, both in fiberglass and wood.
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
On Nov 13, 2014, at 12:59 PM, Dan Mccorison via CnC-List
wrote:
> Ther
There is a great website that shows how to fix a lot of fiberglass problems.
This guy is great source for the do it yourself person.
www.Boatworkstoday.com. check it out.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 13, 2014, at 12:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Joe,
>
> I haven't removed Touc
Joe,
I haven't removed Touche's cap rails so I don't know if the mounting pad is
hollow or not. It may well be hollow.
I would think about injecting spray foam into each hole. That will fill
the hollow. Then using a bent nail in a drill, hollow out the foam 1/2 to
3/4 inch around each hole. T
I decided to attack some long deferred maintenance and removed the teak grab
rail that is on the forward part of the cabin top, port side. It looks like
water has been getting into the screw holes and my wife says 41 years of
natural look teak is enough. So I figured I could take the teak off, s
Rick,
Did you buy access panels that were ready to install? If so, where? Sounds
like a great improvement over the 6 inch access port I currently have there. I
will be installing a boarding ladder this winter, and that would help a lot.
Also for adjusting the tension in the steering cables o
Our 34 has the original Yanmar 3GM which is working like a charm. How does one
tell if the mixing elbow is due for replacement??. Ours still has the original
mixing elbow which we removed and inspected about 12 years ago. It was fine.
Lots of water comes out the exhaust and engine performance
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