final Status report:
Thanks to Paul Dove who had a spare 1231C controller he sold me, I'm now
back on the road!
I'll be accelerating at a much gentler pace and watching my motor amp
gauge more, which will be good for my controller (and efficiency), but
not as much fun as taking full advantag
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
Curtis primarily makes golf car controllers, which don't have as tough a
life as those for road EVs.
And then, us EVers tend to "push" them beyond ratings. If a rope says
"200 pound max", do you use it to safely pick up 200 lbs? Not if you're
smart. But we use
On 2 Jan 2017 at 11:43, Lee Hart via EV wrote:
> The problem is that an EV controller leads a very hard life. Shock,
> vibration, heat, cold, water, dirt, very high current surges, voltage spikes,
> and time will eventually do it in.
Curtis primarily makes golf car controllers, which don't have a
brucedp5 via EV wrote:
my S-10 Blazer conversion... arrived as a 120VDC T125 system using a
Curtis 1221x controller to power the 9" ADC dual-shaft e-motor... the
first curtis died...
openings in that potting material... outside air would breath in moisture...
would cause corrosion, which would
On the topic of repairing a Curtis 1221x controller ...
When I received my S-10 Blazer conversion EV from the converter (no, I did
not make my own. I had no garage, she got the house. But I did have an
income, but no time, I was always working), it arrived as a 120VDC T125
system using a Curtis 12
Hoegberg via EV wrote:
I have an 1221 that I want to use for a new car, but this one has not been
used and have been outdoors for 20 years.. in bad climate, so it probably need
some internal drying..
After that length of time, I would assume the electrolytic capacitors
are bad. I'd replace th
> To: ev@lists.evdl.org
> Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2017 13:56:04 -0500
> Subject: [EVDL] Blew my Curtis 1231C Controller - repair procedures?
> From: ev@lists.evdl.org
>
> For those of you following the drama:
>
> A few days ago my main HV fuse blew.
>
> I used a
It ain't easy to fix the Curtis 1231C, but it is possible (I've done
it). A lot depends on just how much damage was done when it failed. It
might be worse opening it up to take a look. If not too badly damaged,
get it fixed.
I've been doing a lot of reading about that today ;>
I feel that I
Jay,
I too would steer clear from the Kelly controller. We tested a couple of
these when they first started selling in the states (they were looking for
distributors). We found that the specs were overstated (possibly peak level
at best). Smoked both units well before expectations.
I would go with
Jay Summet via EV wrote:
I have sent a message to the seller of the used Kelly controller on
EVTrading post as that appears to be the best option available right
now...
The Zilla 1K would be my choice for a new build, as I've heard nothing
but good things about the Zillas...
A drop in replaceme
They use MOSFET's in the 1231, if you want to experitment I can give you some
free of charge, I get lot's of samples for free and would like to see them used
for an EV project.
On Sunday, January 1, 2017 8:56 PM, paul dove via EV
wrote:
It's called an IGBT
Insulated Gate Bipolar Tran
It's called an IGBT
Insulated Gate Bipolar Transistor
However a Curtis 1231C has MOSFETS bony IGBTs as far as I know.
Repairing them is not for the novice. They are packed in there tight.
I have one I'm not using I would sell.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 1, 2017, at 12:56 PM, Jay Summet v
Thanks for all the suggestions.
I have sent a message to the seller of the used Kelly controller on
EVTrading post as that appears to be the best option available right
now. I like the fact that it is smaller than the current controller
(will fit in the same place) and also offers regen as an
Hello Jay,
I have been using a 1000 amp at 300 volt rating motor controller from Café
Electric for over 15 years. You can purchase them Directly from Café
Electric.com who also makes them. Can be interface with any BMS.
Back in year 2000, my EV weigh 7050 lbs with ninety 300 ah two volt cell
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