Re: [BlindHandyMan] Reliable Compass
the onlyy one I've seen is the silva. You have to hold it level and steady and open the lid to lock the needle. Realize that no magnetic compass is going to be very reliable in urban areas when being carried by a pedestrian. There is just too much iron about and the mag compasses are being continuously diverted. It's different in a car since you can calibrate the compass to compensate for the engine of the car and that helps keep nearby iron based materials from diverting the thing. I've been working with mag compass electronics and with a solid state gyro to try to average out the errors, and it's a real bucket of worms that I havn't yet got working to get a repeatable reliable result. And don't tell me they put them in cell phones, I know that and they don't work very well. Tom Fowle Smith-Kettlewell RERC On Tue, Sep 07, 2010 at 04:13:34PM -0400, Edward Przybylek wrote: Hi all, I realize this topic has been discussed before and I did look in the archives before sending this message but found the number of messages on the topic to be a bit daunting. I'd simply like to know if anyone is using a Braille compass that works reliably for them. I tried the Columbus Talking Digital Compass and I found it to be absolutely worthless. In a majority of the times I tried to use the compass it gave me readings that were completely wrong. I returned it yesterday. I've seen advertisements for a couple of Braille compasses but I'd like to know if they're any better than the talking compasses before I go through all the trouble of ordering one only to return it a few days later. Any advice on a reliable Braille compass will be greatly appreciated. Take care, Ed Przybylek [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Beware of that noisy hybrid car
Should be obvious it needs to sound like what it is! a car. The stupid thing is that they are going to make it optional for the idiot drivers. What other safety feature is optional? Tom Fowle On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 02:16:07AM -0400, Spiro wrote: I can understand wanting to cut down on traffic noise, but it should have seemed obvious; just give it a car sound and be done with it. On Sat, 28 Aug 2010, Ray Boyce wrote: ONE of the world's quietest cars will use a fake engine noise to help save lives. Toyota has fitted its petrol-electric Prius, the world's best-selling hybrid, with a speaker that emits an artificial sound to help warn pedestrians of its approach. General Motors, Nissan and Lotus are among other car makers set to follow with similar pedestrian-alert systems as the motor industry responds to criticism that hybrids such as the Prius endanger lives, particularly those of the blind. Some safety groups have called hybrids silent killers, and research has shown hybrids are more likely to be involved in low-speed accidents with pedestrians because of their ability to run in virtual silence on battery power alone with the petrol engine switched off. Toyota's Approaching Vehicle Audible System device is mounted inside the Prius's front bumper and makes an exaggerated, synthesised sound of an electric motor up to speeds of about 25 km/h. The company says the system, which costs about $170 in Japan, is under consideration for Australia. Such warning tones are expected to become mandatory for hybrids and electric vehicles in the United States. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries
Definitely NOT each rechargable type must work with cells of similar type E.G. nicads, NIMH, and several forms of lithium. Charging needs for each type vary as does amp hour capacity and some times terminal voltage. Just don't mix buy batteries in the size packs you need and keep em together. Tom On Sun, Aug 15, 2010 at 05:36:34PM -0400, Lee A. Stone wrote: is this the same in all battries that you can recharge no matter the brand or type? L On Sun, Aug 15, 2010 at 11:46:18AM -0700, Alan Paganelli wrote: Rechargibles are only 1.2V rather then 1.5V Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: sp...@iamspiro.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2010 4:53 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries don't they pass through it along? On Sat, 14 Aug 2010, David Ferrin wrote: If memory serves me correctly alkaline batteries are parasitic meaning they will drain the other batteries of their charge. David Ferrin www.jaws-users.com Life is what happens after you have already made other plans. - Original Message - From: Spiro sp...@iamspiro.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2010 6:17 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] batteries okay, Tom or someone explain this to me: a toy my kid just got says this: do not mix *alkaline, *standard, or *rechargable batteries do not use *rechargable batteries. It's a motor, that tosses little sponge ring 30 feet. It's like a semi-auto with the magazine above instead of below. So why ot mix, to start, and what reason not to use rechargables for the 2 AA needed? I've mixed batteries before. What should I have noticed? I have a dozen rechargable AA and have placed a tiny piece of scotch tape on each one so I don't toss them out. Even though it doesn't save actual energy it saves the containers constant disposal. Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links -- If you want me to be a good little bunny just dangle some carats in front of my nose. -- Lauren Bacall
Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries
spiro You shouldn't mix battery types because both there voltage and internal resistance differ between types. Thus the load placed on each cell will not be ballanced and one cell in a mixed pack can discharge before others. this can cause excess heating in some cells, particularly with devices that draw signifficant power like anything with a motor. The best that can be said is that you won't get decent battery life with a mixed pack, the worst might be hot cells or even explosions. As for why a device might say not to use rechargables, 2 ideas, 1. any battery sensor that tells you when batteries are low won't work correctly with rechargables unless it knows to do so. This because rechargables have different voltages. 2. since most rechargables have lower internal resistances than alcaline cells, much more current can be drawn from rechargables. It is possible some device might draw so much current as to get cells hot if not designed with proper current limiting circuits. So be good and do it right, you'll get better battery life and less excitement. tom Fowle OnSat, Aug 14, 2010 at 06:17:11PM -0400, Spiro wrote: okay, Tom or someone explain this to me: a toy my kid just got says this: do not mix *alkaline, *standard, or *rechargable batteries do not use *rechargable batteries. It's a motor, that tosses little sponge ring 30 feet. It's like a semi-auto with the magazine above instead of below. So why ot mix, to start, and what reason not to use rechargables for the 2 AA needed? I've mixed batteries before. What should I have noticed? I have a dozen rechargable AA and have placed a tiny piece of scotch tape on each one so I don't toss them out. Even though it doesn't save actual energy it saves the containers constant disposal.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] batteries
And yes the capacity of different cells vary so you're guaranteed to not get even discharge and best life. tom On Sat, Aug 14, 2010 at 06:44:46PM -0700, Tom Fowle wrote: spiro You shouldn't mix battery types because both there voltage and internal resistance differ between types. Thus the load placed on each cell will not be ballanced and one cell in a mixed pack can discharge before others. this can cause excess heating in some cells, particularly with devices that draw signifficant power like anything with a motor. The best that can be said is that you won't get decent battery life with a mixed pack, the worst might be hot cells or even explosions. As for why a device might say not to use rechargables, 2 ideas, 1. any battery sensor that tells you when batteries are low won't work correctly with rechargables unless it knows to do so. This because rechargables have different voltages. 2. since most rechargables have lower internal resistances than alcaline cells, much more current can be drawn from rechargables. It is possible some device might draw so much current as to get cells hot if not designed with proper current limiting circuits. So be good and do it right, you'll get better battery life and less excitement. tom Fowle OnSat, Aug 14, 2010 at 06:17:11PM -0400, Spiro wrote: okay, Tom or someone explain this to me: a toy my kid just got says this: do not mix *alkaline, *standard, or *rechargable batteries do not use *rechargable batteries. It's a motor, that tosses little sponge ring 30 feet. It's like a semi-auto with the magazine above instead of below. So why ot mix, to start, and what reason not to use rechargables for the 2 AA needed? I've mixed batteries before. What should I have noticed? I have a dozen rechargable AA and have placed a tiny piece of scotch tape on each one so I don't toss them out. Even though it doesn't save actual energy it saves the containers constant disposal.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] roof damage
Jenniffer, I don't buy the vent as the source unless the vent is damaged. They should have a hat over the vent that allows falling water to drain away from the hole. If the water caused damage to the sheet rock, it pretty much had to be quite a lot of water or over quite a period. If the vent is damaged, or if, as is likely there is real roof damage, a pro is the onlyanswer since you've no experience working out there. Trying to fix roof damage from the inside will likely just make the water go make a mes somewhere else. AndAlan is quite right, sooner is better. Good luck Tom Fowle On Thu, Aug 05, 2010 at 11:15:25AM -0400, Alan Terrie Robbins wrote: Jennifer, Although you do not want to call a professional and get your husband all worked up, not doing so may lead to additional problems etc down the road. Roof problems are nothing to put off as they do not go away on their own. If it were me I would contact a couple of different roofers and compare what they say. Most will do an inspection and estimate for no charge, at least they do in the area I live. Al -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Jennifer Jackson Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 11:04 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] roof damage Good Morning, I need some input on the condition of my roof and what my next step should be. There is a hole in the ceiling of an upstairs bedroom that is from a water leak. I have been up on a short ladder and checked this part out for myself. It is about the size of a salad plate. I know I have to stop the water from coming in, but I am afraid to get up on the second story roof to investigate. Both afraid of falling, and of doing more damage to the roof as I know nothing about roofing. My mother looks up into this hole and goes on about being able to see the sky. Her answer to the problem is that I must get some man to fix it, so she is not very helpful as a source for more sighted details. My husband has a theory about this leak that I am not certain about. I may have mentioned that home repair is not his forte? Anyway, he insists that the light my mother is seeing is coming through the vent. He is referring to the round vent things that have a fan in them for ventilation. He claims that the water is coming in through the vent and is normal. He tells me that the other fan has a plastic pan under it to catch the water and that this is why it does not have a similar leek. The water that leeks through seems like a lot of water to be expected to just evaporate out of a collection pan. My husband is suggesting that we just need to put in some more insulation and repair the sheet rock. I am willing to get up in the attic and try to access this area to get more information. I am just not certain that any repairs from that side will really do any good, or of any safety precautions I need to take. Such as perhaps turning off the electricity at the breaker box to avoid any possible live wires? Your input will be greatly appreciated. It will cause a fight with my husband if I go ahead and call in a roofer after he has said we do not need one. I am willing to fight with him, but I prefer not to whenever possible. I would love for him to be right about this. Jennifer\ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dial indicator or audible calipers
Kaptec net, formerly tom Benham's science products, has adapted devices but as bob says they're hundreds. I think NFB store has adapted sterrette micrometers which are still not cheap and have very difficult to feel grooves milled in them. There keep being rumours that various tool makers have digital tools with serial ports so as to connect to an accessible computer or the like but I've had trouble actually finding the real data on stuff you can get. If you can deal with a dial indicator that tells you you're within preset limits, I've seen indicators with limit switches that you couldn't set your self, but which could turn on a beeper or the like when outside the preset limits. This could be much cheaper. Try looking for dial indicator with limit switches if this kind of deal might do for you. Tom Fowle Smith-Kettlewell RERC On Sun, Aug 01, 2010 at 08:38:56AM -0400, Bob Kennedy wrote: You're looking for something very pricey as in hundreds to measure a chain that can be replaced for under $20. But if you want to look into it, try captek.net - Original Message - From: Donnie Harris To: Blindhandyman@YahooGroups.com Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 12:00 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dial indicator or audible calipers I am a new list member and I am wondering if anyone knows about some type of either a talking or at least audible of some sort of calipers or or maybe a dial indicator. I work on chainsaws and I sharpen chainsaw chains and I am searching for something to help me with measureing the amount of the tooth on the chain that I am removeing, it's pretty critical to take off the exact amount when I change the machine from the left tooth to the right. This is when it can varie maybe 10 to 30 thousands. I need to find something audible even clicks would be fine if it is accurate Also I have to set the drag's on the chains and in this process I have to measure the difference of height of the tooth to the drag in between the teeth, this should be around25 thousands in height for the best cut. I would appreciate any feed back. Thanks in advance, Donnie Harris. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dryer Problem
I've also seen machines with a piece of trim on the front just below the top panel which slides sideways and comes off, thus revealing inset screws And I've seen an old sears where you had to remove screws from the back, thus allowing the top to slide forward a bit and hinge up. When you put these sheet metal screws back in,, be sure to turn them counterclockwise a turn or so after seating there points in the metal holes. this helps fit them into there original threads, and avoids stripping. And for gads sake unplug the 220 power before mucking around in there with your little blind haptors! good luck Tom Fowle On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 07:27:48PM -0400, Bob Kennedy wrote: There are a couple ways. Try putting a putty knife between the top and the front. You'll have to slide from the outside edge toward the center. There should be a clip on each side. When you run into it, push in on the clip and lift. Don't tug because it may not be the clip and you don't want more trouble. There may also be a series of screws on the front. Especially at the bottom. Take them out if you find them. And I've seen them with both clips and screws. In that case you can back out the lower screws and then release the clips. Once the top raises up, you might see a self tapping screw with maybe an 8 millimeter head on it. 5/16 for SAE folks. Don't take these screws all the way out. You only need to loosen them and then lift up on the front. Be careful when everything comes loose. There will be wires you probably didn't see earlier. - Original Message - From: robert Gilman To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 5:28 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dryer Problem Now just how does the top unsnap in the front. Thanks Bob - Original Message - From: Ron Yearns To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 12, 2010 10:27 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dryer Problem As Dale said, removing the back is a waste of time. I would start with the top. It should snap free from the front and hinge towards the back. Hopefully you can rotate the drum by hand untill you can reach the pin. If you are unable to do this then removing the front and pulling the drum out is called for. This will involve removing the belt and re stringing it when reinstalling. Hope you you can get it from the top. Ron - Original Message - From: Robert Gilman To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 5:25 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dryer Problem Hi All, I am looking for some tips on taking the dryer apart. I have a bobby pin stuck in the drum that is grinding into the drum. Can I just unscrew all the screws and get the back panel off and possible access the pin or will I need to take the top off. Thanks, Bob [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] gorilla glue and metal
I think the crazy glue will do if you can get it applied and get the screws tightened before the glue sets. Maybe just loosen the screws a bit, apply the smallest drop of glue to the threads under the head, and tighten quick. Of course be sure you don't drip crazy glue into the rest of the lock or you're locked for ever I don't think it'd take much sticking force to keep the screws from being removed. tom Fowle On Tue, Jul 06, 2010 at 02:36:21PM -0500, Jennifer Jackson wrote: So this time I had the good sense to Google glue metal to metal, instead of gorilla glue. I learned that Crazy glue will most likely do the job even though it is listed as the thrird best choice. Sotering and then a two part apoxy if you must glue were what the first recommendations were. I think the Crazy glue will do for my purposes. Jennifer _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jennifer Jackson Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 2:26 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] gorilla glue and metal Thanks Betsy, That is all I found too. I just have a pad lock that I want to glue the screws in so it can not be opened with a screw driver instead of the key for the padlock. I am open to other suggestions, I just already have the gorilla glue and wanted it to work without a trip to the store. Jennifer rom: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 3:16 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] gorilla glue and metal Aloha Jennifer, I went online and could only find information about using it with wood. Maybe I missed something, but... Betsy At 07:17 AM 7/6/2010, you wrote: Hey Guys, Will Gorilla glue work on metal? Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system
Pipe clamps mount to standard pipe sizes and can be expanded as far as you want to fasten lengths of pipe together. tom foowle On Thu, Jul 01, 2010 at 08:36:10AM -0400, Alan Terrie Robbins wrote: I am replacing the surface of my 12 by 16 deck with 16 foot long five quarter by 6 decking. I remember the last time I did this when getting to the last 3 to 4 foot of each board it would become necessary to pry the board over to have it remain tight with the previous one installed. This gets a bit tricky when you also have to drill a pilot hole and drive deck screws. Do they make any type expandable clamping system to assist with this type task? I'm envisioning something like a threaded rod with some type crank on one end that could draw the parts together? It would need to be expandable by adding say additional 4 foot sections as needed. If they do make something like this I would have many different type uses for it. Would something like this be available at Home Depot? What would it be called. Thanks in advance for all replies Al
Re: [BlindHandyMan] ozone
Hi Clifford, Any time there is a spark some ozone will be created, but I'd not worry much about that occasional snap. tom Fowle On Thu, Jun 24, 2010 at 11:14:03PM -0400, clifford wrote: Dear List Members: Ozone is used quite extensively in bottled water to be sure no bacteria is introduced in to natural spring water which is free of little bugs from the outset. I am told that the amount introduced is such that it dissipates quickly but dealing a death blow to any microbes which may have been introduced during the bottling process. I have an electronic air filter at my office, and when there is a lot of arcing, when a larger piece of lent or what have you is sucked in, then it sounds like a bug whacker. When that happens, I am told that a bit of ozone is generated. A smell is also created for a brief time. I hope the levels are so low as to not be harmful. Yours Truly, Clifford Wilson __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5227 (20100624) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Testing for Mold?
The last place you should go is a company that also fixes the roblem, it's one of the big current scams out there. Molds and mildew and th like are everywhere and apparrently not usually a real problem. unless you've had long term water remaining in your place. County health dept. sounds like a good plan. Tom
[BlindHandyMan] Re: testing for mold, more
I asked our tech who is a landlord and very practical. He says if you have a place where water has stayed a lot and there is no heat or air movement mold can become a real mess, but you can see, smell, and even feel it on walls etc. Any sighted person should be able to see if there is green or black stuff where it shouldn't be. Just a bit around windows that aren't opened too often is probably no big deal. My guess is that if you're place was clean after the water damage cleanup and you have any reasonable amount of warmth and air movement, you're probably fine again, last thing to do is go to a mold removal and testing company cause they will find it whether it's there or not. Also don't go to doctors who specialize in mold or allergy testing unless they are board certified allergologists Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Testing for Mold?
Claudia, I'd run the other way fast, free inspection just about guarantees they'll find something expesive. Although a good electrostatic air cleaner might remove mold spores it wouldn't help keep it off things unless it dehumidified. I bet a dehumidifier would be much much cheaper and do the job as well. If anybody so much as mentions air filters using ozone run the other way evenfaster, it's poison, but they sell them anyhow. As has been said, wash with a solution of bleech and dehumidify if you see water where it shouldn't be and you'll probably do fine and save lots of money. Tom Fowle On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 03:36:30PM -0500, Claudia wrote: County Health Dept. referred me to a company that you have to pay. When I did talk with this company, they stated they could come out and do an initial inspection for free. They also stated that mold clean-up can get very, very expensive, and it doesn't permanently cure the problem because it could potentially come back? Then, he talked to me about purchasing an air purification system, one that he swears by, of course, that only costs $750, plus tax. Go figure! Does anyone know whether these air purification systems really work? If anything, I would ask him, if we could try it, for a week or two, before deciding whether or not we wanted to purchase. I think this guy probably just wants my money, but at this point, I don't know of any other companies that come out to test. Claudia - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 12:48 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Testing for Mold? The last place you should go is a company that also fixes the roblem, it's one of the big current scams out there. Molds and mildew and th like are everywhere and apparrently not usually a real problem. unless you've had long term water remaining in your place. County health dept. sounds like a good plan. Tom __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5199 (20100615) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5199 (20100615) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] air purifiers
Air purifiers should use mechanical filters and electrostatic particle removal and that's all Stay away from Ozone I looked that up for this list a couple years ago after some people swore by there ozone generators, It's toxic and doesn't work, and is strongly disreccommended by the EPA. but since capitalism can sell it it's considered legal. Just like the suplement industry. Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Purification Systems
Claudia, You should change or wash your furnace filter as often as is reccommende You could get a so-called HEPA filter for more money those are not washable but are a much finer filter that is pretty muh as good as anybody needs. From all you've said, i doubt you have a mold problem and if your allergologist said no, that's pretty good, much better ahan any commercial inspector. Tom On Thu, Jun 17, 2010 at 06:19:27PM -0500, Claudia wrote: What do you mean by forced air? I'm not sure. We have a heating and cooling system, in one; we have vents, and the duct work is all in the basement. I'm thinking that this is forced air? The vents are floor-level, and the filters are just the kind you slide in and out of the furnace, nothing electronic! Claudia - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 4:07 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Purification Systems Claudia, Do you have a forced air furnace system? Does it have an electronic filter? Dale Leavens. - Original Message - From: Claudia To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 4:41 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Air Purification Systems RJ, Do you recall how much you paid for your air purifier? Claudia - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 3:40 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Testing for Mold? I do have one from Shaklee, that my wife swear by. I don't have allergies, so I can't tell. Plus the house is only 7 years old. - Original Message - From: Claudia To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 16:36 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Testing for Mold? County Health Dept. referred me to a company that you have to pay. When I did talk with this company, they stated they could come out and do an initial inspection for free. They also stated that mold clean-up can get very, very expensive, and it doesn't permanently cure the problem because it could potentially come back? Then, he talked to me about purchasing an air purification system, one that he swears by, of course, that only costs $750, plus tax. Go figure! Does anyone know whether these air purification systems really work? If anything, I would ask him, if we could try it, for a week or two, before deciding whether or not we wanted to purchase. I think this guy probably just wants my money, but at this point, I don't know of any other companies that come out to test. Claudia - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 12:48 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Testing for Mold? The last place you should go is a company that also fixes the roblem, it's one of the big current scams out there. Molds and mildew and th like are everywhere and apparrently not usually a real problem. unless you've had long term water remaining in your place. County health dept. sounds like a good plan. Tom __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5199 (20100615) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5199 (20100615) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5199 (20100615) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5199 (20100615) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5199 (20100615) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5199 (20100615) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] calibrating oven
Betsy is quite correct, it's going to take a couple cycles to get the entire oven stabilized. I wouldn't rely on an instant read digital thermometer any more than the built-in thermostat to be accurate. Actually I think the spring unit is more likely to be better since you probably won't be able to get a good mercury unit. Just cause it's digital doesn't mean it's accurate. Tom Fowle On Thu, Jun 10, 2010 at 11:32:35AM -1000, Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press wrote: Aloha Lenny, Just a note about this. I complained that my oven was off. When the guy came out, he said that after the oven light went out and the preheated beeps sounded, I needed to wait until I heard the oven performed two more cycles before it was actually at the right temperature. He said that the preheat light goes out when the oven hits the temperature that is set, but that the entire oven is not at a steady temperature. Since I've been doing that, everything seems to cook properly. We have one of those little round oven thermometers that hangs on the rack. It is not accessible, but it was $4 and we rarely have to use it. Betsy At 10:51 AM 6/10/2010, you wrote: Karen knows that our oven is off by at least 25 degrees. In order to calibrate the oven, I need an accurate digital thermometer that will go up to 550 degrees. The instructions are to set the temp to 550 and when that temp is reached hold the bake button in. To set it I need a way to check the actual temp. we have a spring thermometer but have no faith in that. I just read that the blind mice have a cooking thermometer that will go up that high. Since it is a probe type I wonder if we would just touch the rack for the actual temperature? Any suggestions? I hate to call someone in to do that job since all we need is a way to record the actual temp when the pre heat light goes out. --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.lennymchugh.com Lenny Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when addressing. Help stop identity theft. __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5188 (20100610) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] calibrating oven
I wonder how much the air temp would fall in that 10 seconds while the probe unit was guessing. Accuracy ain't so easy Tom On Thu, Jun 10, 2010 at 02:52:57PM -0700, Alan Paganelli wrote: The talking probe thermometer works even if you just stick it in the hot air in the oven. It takes only 5 to 10 seconds to reach the temperature but it's real purpose is to measure the internal temperature of meat. Alan Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/ There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly! The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still available upon request. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press braill...@hawaii.rr.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2010 2:32 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] calibrating oven Aloha Lenny, Just a note about this. I complained that my oven was off. When the guy came out, he said that after the oven light went out and the preheated beeps sounded, I needed to wait until I heard the oven performed two more cycles before it was actually at the right temperature. He said that the preheat light goes out when the oven hits the temperature that is set, but that the entire oven is not at a steady temperature. Since I've been doing that, everything seems to cook properly. We have one of those little round oven thermometers that hangs on the rack. It is not accessible, but it was $4 and we rarely have to use it. Betsy At 10:51 AM 6/10/2010, you wrote: Karen knows that our oven is off by at least 25 degrees. In order to calibrate the oven, I need an accurate digital thermometer that will go up to 550 degrees. The instructions are to set the temp to 550 and when that temp is reached hold the bake button in. To set it I need a way to check the actual temp. we have a spring thermometer but have no faith in that. I just read that the blind mice have a cooking thermometer that will go up that high. Since it is a probe type I wonder if we would just touch the rack for the actual temperature? Any suggestions? I hate to call someone in to do that job since all we need is a way to record the actual temp when the pre heat light goes out. --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.lennymchugh.com Lenny Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when addressing. Help stop identity theft. __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5188 (20100610) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] outlet timers
Similar ones to those Tony describes should be obtainable from many hardware stores, they are often called lamp timers If it says digital forget it, these are old fashioned motors and gears. and switches, Once you have pressed a selector in to set a time, running the dial round it's travel you can usually feel and hear the thing pass the switch. Many also have a little knob that can be used to manually turn the appliance on/off and this turns when the timer does the job. Only trouble with these beasties is the gears these days are plastic and easy to strip so make sure nothing can get caught in the dial and hold it up. the other end of the spectrum is a timer made by Cobolt from britain that talks and can be set to do similar jobs but is buggy and way way over priced, strongly disreccommended I think it was designed to control portable heaters as it also has a thermostat of sorts. Before you plan to use an external timer on a device that has it's own clock which you can't access, make sure what else may be unset or reset when the thing looses power via your external timer. some digital devices save settings regardlesss of power off, some don't. Hope you can still find the good mechanical devices. Tom Fowle On Wed, Jun 09, 2010 at 01:19:14PM -0500, Tony wrote: The last ones I got from Harbor Freight a couple of years ago have 96 slide pins around the outer edge of the dial, one for each 15 minutes of the day. You push them toward or away from the center of the dial to turn the appliance on or off for the desired times. You can have as many on / off cycles of any duration as you can manage in 24 hours. The times are written on the dial but you can set your own calibration by setting one pin on, turning the dial until the appliance turns on, then that pin will represent the current time and you can count from there. Might be simpler to have some one mark the dial and case for midnight so you can reset it yourself if it gets unplugged or you lose power. Tony -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jennifer Jackson Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2010 12:48 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] outlet timers Hey Guys, Does anyone here use one of the outlet timers that you put in the outlet and then plug your appliance in to so you can use a timer to either turn it on or off? I remember my grandmother having them when I was a kid, but I do not remember enough about the details to know if a blind person could set them or not. I know many items now come with their own clocks and timers, but so often they are not accessible to set. This is to help with my conservation and frugality efforts. Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor
It is possible to have concrete put in through a hose from a truck, but probably very expensive and would have to be done by a contractor. Probably prohibitively costly, the high end method. tom Fowle
[BlindHandyMan] Re: list archives
And there are the easier to use text archives at: http://www.jaws-users.com/jaws/handyman/ Tom Fowle
[BlindHandyMan] messages appearing twice?
I didn't send my previous one about the text archives twice, I'm sure? or I think I'm sure, or maybe not! but I got it twice! Tom Fowle If the world isn't going to h---, then what am I doing in this handbasket? Irma Bombeck
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: list archives
I get the 404 error too, but going to the jaws-users.com site then finding the blind handyman files page shows the identical url and works from there. Used too work and probably will when the moon changes phases Weird Tom Fowle On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 05:10:41PM -0400, Lenny McHugh wrote: I get an error with that link: Not Found The requested URL /jaws/handyman/ was not found on this server. Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org To: blindHandyMan blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 4:59 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Re: list archives And there are the easier to use text archives at: http://www.jaws-users.com/jaws/handyman/ Tom Fowle Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5113 (20100513) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5113 (20100513) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: list archives
That'll teach me to look at the footer once in a blue moon, or maybe a purple one! Sorry David I had to remove the slash from the end of the url to get it to work. Does this mean that the jaws-users archive is no longer being kept up? Assuming the mail-archive.com is automatic, then that is of course good. Thanks tom On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 06:14:53PM -0400, David Ferrin wrote: From the footer message: http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ David Ferrin www.jaws-users.com Life is what happens after you have already made other plans. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org To: blindHandyMan blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 16:59 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Re: list archives And there are the easier to use text archives at: http://www.jaws-users.com/jaws/handyman/ Tom Fowle Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: list archives
David, See if others have to remove the slash, I think it may be a browserquirkeiness and i bet nobody else on this list is such an old crank as to be using lynx as am I. Tom On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 07:09:55PM -0400, David Ferrin wrote: I haven't been doing much with it for a while now as some folks complained about it from like diy.com ETC. The mail archive web site is automatic and been doing it for several years already in fact. All I had to do was manually subscribe a certain address to the list and the rest as they say is history. So if you had to remove that slash maybe I should go in and edit the footer message to reflect that fact. David Ferrin www.jaws-users.com Life is what happens after you have already made other plans. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 18:43 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: list archives That'll teach me to look at the footer once in a blue moon, or maybe a purple one! Sorry David I had to remove the slash from the end of the url to get it to work. Does this mean that the jaws-users archive is no longer being kept up? Assuming the mail-archive.com is automatic, then that is of course good. Thanks tom On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 06:14:53PM -0400, David Ferrin wrote: From the footer message: http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ David Ferrin www.jaws-users.com Life is what happens after you have already made other plans. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org To: blindHandyMan blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 16:59 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Re: list archives And there are the easier to use text archives at: http://www.jaws-users.com/jaws/handyman/ Tom Fowle Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] computer won't start
Lenny No need to replace all that stuff, you can get new systems with all flavors of PCI slots if you need legacy slots I even know where you can get modern mother boards with ISA slots if you want. HP may not have modern drivers for some printers so check first before upgrading the OS. Same with modems unless they are external hardware modems which are best anyhow and will work with any OS. You can surely get a replacement power supply for almost anything that is ATX form factor and that's anything in the last 5 years or so. I hate to upgrade too, even when the old stuff is getting flakey, That's why I have 3 computers on my desk at work! GRIN tom Fowle On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 01:16:38PM -0400, Lenny McHugh wrote: Rick, Well I ran the fix disk Then did a through virus scan. The scan was clean it checked over 208,600 files. I also ran regscrup and cleaned up about 20 errors. The system has successfully started 5 consecutive times. The problem could also be a flaky power supply. I probably will give a little more time into looking for a new system. I hate to go 64 bit because of legacy devices. Karen has a dye sublimation printer. Also not sure if my old modem will work. I guess that my hp printer would also have to be replaced. Oh how I hate the thought of replacement. - Original Message - From: Rick Hume ringmaster.r...@gmail.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 6:16 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] computer won't start Problem points to weakening mother board or hard drive. If you can get it to once again boot, I would suggest that you defrag and run disk check on your hard drive. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 4:12 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] computer won't start Ok, this is the second day that my computer would not start. It just sat on a windows starting screen. A reset did not help. When a forced power shut down and turning back on. A message warning that windows did not previously start because of a hardware problem. It wanted me to select a previous state that worked. While my wife was reading the choices it did start. Is this my hard drive going south or the mother board. I have been putting off purchasing a new machine. This is a 2000 1.3 mhz machine with 512 memory, it does everything that I need it to do.If I can locate another 40 gb hard drive I could easily replace. I do have full image backups. --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.lennymchugh.com Lenny Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when addressing. Help stop identity theft. __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5106 (20100511) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email
Re: [BlindHandyMan] computer won't start
Jim is correct about USB adapters too, you can get USB to parallel and serial ports easilly and almost anythinng else you havn' heard of. Tom Fowle
Re: [SPAM] Re: [BlindHandyMan] Diagnosing a doorbell
Art, You're correct, try A.C. first,and test between the two terminals., I doubt anything in that circuit should be grounded. Tom Fowle On Tue, May 04, 2010 at 09:00:49PM -0400, Art Rizzino wrote: Thanks for the comments so far. By the way where the wires came apart was near what I think is the transformer. Since I have one of the talking multi meters would it be a good guess to set it to AC and check the thing that I assume is the transformer? If DC by chance there will be no reading? Probably not a good idea to attempt putting AC to the DC setting of the meter. Electric testing probably is not my strong point. I am not afraid of electrical but do respect it. When using the meter, should I probe both terminals at the same time or should I check each one at a time going to ground? Guidance please. Thanks. Art - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 12:49 AM Subject: [SPAM] Re: [BlindHandyMan] Diagnosing a doorbell I respectfully disagree. The voltage to a doorbell is either 16 or 24 volts always AC. The transformer has two terminals as noted. The bell has three terminals, One is common. The second is the two chime sounder and the third one is the one chime sounder. One connection on the transformer goes to the common on the bell. The other terminal on the transformer goes to both buttons. The return from each button goes to the remaining two terminals on the bell. Usually the front door goes to the two chime sounder and the back door goes to the one chime sounder. You may have to experiment to figure out which is the common. You will need assistance to push the buttons anyway so if that help is sighted you might as well have her read the labels on the bell box. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 8:09 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Diagnosing a doorbell The voltage should be 12 volts DC. I don't know which terminals are live or ground though. You can tape over the bear wires to the point you only have a bit more than the hook at the ends. Then have someone work the door bell, or tape a couple coins to the button to keep it live. Then you can make the individual contacts and see which way works. - Original Message - From: Art Rizzino To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 8:32 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Diagnosing a doorbell I would like guidance diagnosing my house two door doorbell setup. The wiring always looked shaky to me. Today I was coming down out of the attic and my shirt got caught on the door bell wires and pulled them apart. Well I guess this is the time to figure out the system and make better connections than twisting wires together and let exposed bear wires dangle. This is how it was when we bought the house. The front door you hear two tones and the side door there is one tone. I assume each door's button should have two wires coming from it. The doorbell box has four wires in two pairs of two wires. There are three terminals in the doorbell box, the center terminal has two wires one from each set. What is the center terminal, negative or positive? What might be the voltage required to activate one of the doorbells? There is what I assume is an AC to DC transformer included in the system. This little box only has two terminals on it, is this a typically a steady DC voltage supply? What might be the correct way to connect the wires for such a system? Ideas, guidance and suggestions welcome. Thanks. Art [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Diagnosing a doorbell
Art, You really don't have to care if it is D.C. or A.C. but since the transformer is mounted directly to an electrical box, I'd bet for A.C. and as Dale says 18 to 24 volts. But if all you need to do is clean up the wiring, and you know which of the 3 terminals on the bell box is the common, tha's all you really need to know. Which wire from each button goes to common or to it's own terminal doesn't matter a fig, buttons aren't polarized, in other words they work either way as well. I'd just go get some wire nuts for the appropriate size of wire, probably #20 wire, and twist things together. Most of these bell transformers are designed to take a momentary short circuit without burning out, but don't short it out if you can help it. Hook up one button and try it, then the other. Take care and have fun tom Fowle On Mon, May 03, 2010 at 09:37:50PM -0400, Art Rizzino wrote: Hi Dale, The transformer (I think) is a separate device from the doorbell box. It only has two terminals on it and is mounted directly to an electrical junction box cover. The three terminals that I asked about are in the doorbell box it self. How might I determine if DC or alternating current device. Thanks. Art - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 9:10 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Diagnosing a doorbell The transformer may be a 16 or 24 volt reducing transformer. It supplies power to the bell. There are three terminals, one is a common, one wire from each bell button goes to that terminal. The second wire from the front door goes to one of the other terminals and the second wire from the back door goes to the other terminal. Pressing one button drives power to one bell circuit, the other to the other circuit. It is most probably an alternating current device. Hope this helps. - Original Message - From: Art Rizzino To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 7:32 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Diagnosing a doorbell I would like guidance diagnosing my house two door doorbell setup. The wiring always looked shaky to me. Today I was coming down out of the attic and my shirt got caught on the door bell wires and pulled them apart. Well I guess this is the time to figure out the system and make better connections than twisting wires together and let exposed bear wires dangle. This is how it was when we bought the house. The front door you hear two tones and the side door there is one tone. I assume each door's button should have two wires coming from it. The doorbell box has four wires in two pairs of two wires. There are three terminals in the doorbell box, the center terminal has two wires one from each set. What is the center terminal, negative or positive? What might be the voltage required to activate one of the doorbells? There is what I assume is an AC to DC transformer included in the system. This little box only has two terminals on it, is this a typically a steady DC voltage supply? What might be the correct way to connect the wires for such a system? Ideas, guidance and suggestions welcome. Thanks. Art [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock?
I would never consider any electronic device to be as reliable as a simple key and lock. Also as a bat, one must consider howlikely it could be that somebody could watch you enter your pass code without your knowing. And you need a key available somehow if the battery fails. Also would need to check how hard, or accessible, changing the code is to do if someone undesirable gets hold of it. Sounds like making something simple harder to no purpose. Tom Fowle On Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 11:32:42AM -0500, Claudia wrote: Does anybody know how reliable these things are? I've just been researching, and apparently, there are others that recognize your fingerprint? Thanks. - Original Message - From: Brice Mijares To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 9:02 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock? They also make these keyless door locks where a key fob is used to unlock the door. - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin mbaldwin...@gmail.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 6:40 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock? instead of using a key, you put in a pass code on a key pad located on the door, and the door unlocks assuming the correct code was put in. There is also a key slot, so if the battery dies in the key pad, you can still use the key to get in. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Claudia Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 7:10 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock? Hi, I've been hearing commercials lately, about a keyless entry lock? What is this, and can anyone describe it for me? Thanks. Claudia __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5049 (20100422) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset. http://www.eset.com com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5046 (20100421) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5050 (20100422) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5049 (20100422) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5050 (20100422) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] button padlocks
Lenny, Again, some allow you to easilly change the combination, and some don't. Boy that's a pretty raw deal if you have theaes in a care home. Tom On Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 03:22:44PM -0400, Lenny McHugh wrote: Does anyone use the push button padlocks. I have a brother who is in a personal care home. He has a small refrigerator that I installed a hasp and padlock. There is a lot of theft there. The other day when he took his shower someone saw where he had the key. Some candy, soda and his money were taken. I felt bad for him especially since it was my idea for him to keep his money there under lock. He has a few additional problems along with his blindness so I would like to find something simple to use. --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.lennymchugh.com Lenny Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when addressing. Help stop identity theft. __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5051 (20100422) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock?
So if the buttons are scrambled, then the sightlings must have to look at some display to get the scramble each time, thus standing there puzzling over how to manage that task, giving the bad guys even more time to watch and see what is being entered. Where i work we have key cards you bring near an antenna, no contact required. but that requires a whole mess of electronics and a computer to manage it with and cost tens of thousands of bucks Since most people are too lazy to take the card from there pocket to present it to the antenna, you see scientists and doctors doing a little but dance rite there in the street to get in. It's pretty funny. tom Fowle On Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 02:41:09PM -0500, wstep...@everestkc.net wrote: I work in a secure facility which is currently having its systems updated. We used to have key pads at secure points of entry, then the security lads figured out that it was possible to isolate the four keys being used by the amount of wear on the buttons. So, we're getting scramble pads, where the layout of the key pad changes after every use. Needless to say, this is not useable for blinks, so I have to have a special access card. So if anybody's thinking about key pads, be aware and watch out for the scrambled ones. Bill Stephan Kansas Citty MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org Date: Thursday, April 22, 2010 1:59 pm Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock? I would never consider any electronic device to be as reliable as a simple key and lock. Also as a bat, one must consider howlikely it could be that somebody could watch you enter your pass code without your knowing. And you need a key available somehow if the battery fails. Also would need to check how hard, or accessible, changing the code is to do if someone undesirable gets hold of it. Sounds like making something simple harder to no purpose. Tom Fowle On Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 11:32:42AM -0500, Claudia wrote: Does anybody know how reliable these things are? I've just been researching, and apparently, there are others that recognize your fingerprint? Thanks. - Original Message - From: Brice Mijares To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 9:02 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock? They also make these keyless door locks where a key fob is used to unlock the door. - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin mbaldwin...@gmail.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 6:40 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock? instead of using a key, you put in a pass code on a key pad located on the door, and the door unlocks assuming the correct code was put in. There is also a key slot, so if the battery dies in the key pad, you can still use the key to get in. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Claudia Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 7:10 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock? Hi, I've been hearing commercials lately, about a keyless entry lock?What is this, and can anyone describe it for me? Thanks. Claudia __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5049 (20100422) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset. http://www.eset.com com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5046 (20100421) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5050 (20100422) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5049 (20100422) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5050 (20100422) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock?
They don't care if you go into the store with an uncleared security tag, just if you leave with one. The system can tell if you're entering or leaving. I carry 2 keyless entry cards most of the time and am surprised they've never set anything off.f For big companies, the advantage of the card system is that the cards have unique numbers, so when you fire someone you just remove his number from the system and he can't get back in even if he keeps the card. When my institute remodeled our building in 1998, they considered having keyless locks on all doors, but it would have cost millions, so they're just on the outside doors. Each summer I spend a week at Humboldt state university in a dorm they have magnetic cards you put in a slot in the door's lock that then allows the door to open. They have a lot of trouble wit them not working and having to be reprogrammed or replaced, but I don't know if more trouble than keys would be. Tom Fowle On Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 06:16:54PM -0400, Lenny McHugh wrote: One of those key cards caused a very embarrassing moment. Where I use to work also had them. I had mine in my wallet and went into a department store. I do not know why it did not trigger their alarm system when I entered but when leaving all types of alarms went off. A clerk stopped me until a security officer came. His first question was are you carrying a keyless card? - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 4:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock? So if the buttons are scrambled, then the sightlings must have to look at some display to get the scramble each time, thus standing there puzzling over how to manage that task, giving the bad guys even more time to watch and see what is being entered. Where i work we have key cards you bring near an antenna, no contact required. but that requires a whole mess of electronics and a computer to manage it with and cost tens of thousands of bucks Since most people are too lazy to take the card from there pocket to present it to the antenna, you see scientists and doctors doing a little but dance rite there in the street to get in. It's pretty funny. tom Fowle On Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 02:41:09PM -0500, wstep...@everestkc.net wrote: I work in a secure facility which is currently having its systems updated. We used to have key pads at secure points of entry, then the security lads figured out that it was possible to isolate the four keys being used by the amount of wear on the buttons. So, we're getting scramble pads, where the layout of the key pad changes after every use. Needless to say, this is not useable for blinks, so I have to have a special access card. So if anybody's thinking about key pads, be aware and watch out for the scrambled ones. Bill Stephan Kansas Citty MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org Date: Thursday, April 22, 2010 1:59 pm Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock? I would never consider any electronic device to be as reliable as a simple key and lock. Also as a bat, one must consider howlikely it could be that somebody could watch you enter your pass code without your knowing. And you need a key available somehow if the battery fails. Also would need to check how hard, or accessible, changing the code is to do if someone undesirable gets hold of it. Sounds like making something simple harder to no purpose. Tom Fowle On Thu, Apr 22, 2010 at 11:32:42AM -0500, Claudia wrote: Does anybody know how reliable these things are? I've just been researching, and apparently, there are others that recognize your fingerprint? Thanks. - Original Message - From: Brice Mijares To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 9:02 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock? They also make these keyless door locks where a key fob is used to unlock the door. - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin mbaldwin...@gmail.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 6:40 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Keyless Entry Lock? instead of using a key, you put in a pass code on a key pad located on the door, and the door unlocks assuming the correct code was put in. There is also a key slot, so if the battery dies in the key pad, you can still use the key to get in. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Claudia Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 7:10 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Re: [BlindHandyMan] changed fuse wire?
Maybe it is used in cars in fusable links where I'd not have run into it. In electronics at our level of experience, and in home wiring, fuses come in various cartridges; which I'm sure you know of too. Thanks Tom On Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 12:08:08PM +1200, Jewel wrote: There are several grades depending on the amount of ampherage it is expected to carry, but, essentially, it is very fine flexible wire Jewel.- Original Message - From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2010 11:58 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] changed fuse wire? What is fuse wire? Only thing I know called fuse wire is almost solder used in some weird equipment as fuses. What I've seen wouldn't be springy. Tom Fowle Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5026 (20100413) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com
Re: [BlindHandyMan] changed fuse wire?
Thanks Dale, and yep, I remember, be sixty fourin june! Always wondered how one mended a fuse, now I know! GRIN Tom
[BlindHandyMan] Re: fuse wire
I'd like to have the old kind where you can replace the wire, much easier to see if a fuse is bad although it could be sticky unplugging the holder if the wire is exposed. Not that screw in fuses are hard to test or anything. Tom Fowle
[BlindHandyMan] changed fuse wire?
What is fuse wire? Only thing I know called fuse wire is almost solder used in some weird equipment as fuses. What I've seen wouldn't be springy. Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] purchasing a new washing machine!
We bought sears front loader pari maybe 5 years ago and they both have good old fashioned knobs with pointers that are easy to deal with. As I remember when we looked, whirlpool also had easy looking controls. Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] not selling to blind explination
I could readilly go out and buy a car, a yacht or a plane these days, and not be able to operate any of them without competant assistance. I guarantee no car dealer in this country would hesitate for a second to take my money if I had it. It's all fear, this country is run by the fearfull these days, most of it made up from nonsense and ignorance. Not to excuse overzealous lawyers and those who hire them. Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Audio Mixer
You definitely want to mix the signals so they are combined without having the output of one card effect the other. this requires electrical resistance between each output and the input. An actual mixer will do as required but connectors or capacitive coupling will not! Even transformer coupling will not provide the necessary issolation. Tom Fowle On Sat, Mar 27, 2010 at 04:50:04PM -0400, Edward Przybylek wrote: Hi Spiro, What's the difference between mix and couple. As I said in my earlier post, I simply want to combine the output of two sound cards through a single set of powered computer speakers. If coupling is simply combining the two outputs with some sort of Y-connector, I was advised not to do this. I was told that the output of one card could somehow affect the other card and cause damage to the card. Since both cards are fairly expensive, I'd rather not do anything that might cause me to have to replace one or both cards. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Take care, Ed Przybylek _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spiro Sent: Friday, March 26, 2010 9:24 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Audio Mixer in case no one else answered, do you need to mix, or can you just couple? On Wed, 24 Mar 2010, Edward Przybylek wrote: Hi all, I currently have two sound cards installed in my computer. I'd like to combine the outputs of the two cards so that both cards can be played through a single set of speakers. I'm told the best way to do this is to use an audio mixer. My problem is that I'm beginning to run out of desk space and that's why I'm hoping some really small mixers exist. This is a fairly simple application that requires minimal complexity so I really don't need anything like a professional unit or one that has the capability to perform any and all audio mixing functions. All I need to do is combine two stereo outputs into a single set of speakers while maintaining reasonable sound quality. If anyone knows of a very small and simple mixer that will serve this purpose, I would greatly appreciate hearing about it. Thanks a lot. Take care, Ed Przybylek [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Re: color identification.
As Terry said, if the object whose color you want to identify is smaller than will cover the sensor of the identifier, you need a black background on which to put the unknown object E.G. wire etc. Otherwise a colored, nonm-black background must optically combine colors with the color of the unknown object. The identifier is doing exactly what you asked it to do, you just have to ask the right question. Tom Fowle
[BlindHandyMan] changed subject: dish washing.
And there would be so many varriables about how one hand washes dishes. I've seen people who leave the rinse water running all the time they're actually washing the stuff in the sink full of soap. So such numbers are to be taken, well, maybe with a grain of soap. I actually like washing dishes particularly in cool weather, and wouldn't give up the space for an automatic washer. but then there are only two of us, probably if we had rug rats I'd feel differently. like poor, harrassed and frightened! GRIN Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal
Betsy, It may well not have aplug may be wired right to the box where the switch is. If the original installation is 30 years old, things may not be quite as they should be re: fittings, locations etc. which could make repaacing it a hastle with no experience. I'd get a pro to deal with it. tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Audio Mixer
Ed, Unfortunately I don'tknow that there is a commercial mixer that is as simple as what we've made here for this exact purpose. What you want can be done with 4 varriable resistors )pots), 4 fixed resistors and the necessary jacks and plugs. This is a passive' mixer, meaning it has no amplification built in, thus it must work into powered speakers. It will reduce the total max volume you can get from the speakers by a few DB, but this rarely should be a problem. If you have any building experience or have a friend who has, E.G. basic soldering, dreilling holes in a box, and the like, it's very easy to duplicate this device. If interested, let me know and I'll bung up a brief text discription of how it goes together for you. Again, sorry I don't know where you can just buy one. Tom Fowle smith-Kettlewell RERC. On Wed, Mar 24, 2010 at 02:23:31PM -0400, Edward Przybylek wrote: Hi all, I currently have two sound cards installed in my computer. I'd like to combine the outputs of the two cards so that both cards can be played through a single set of speakers. I'm told the best way to do this is to use an audio mixer. My problem is that I'm beginning to run out of desk space and that's why I'm hoping some really small mixers exist. This is a fairly simple application that requires minimal complexity so I really don't need anything like a professional unit or one that has the capability to perform any and all audio mixing functions. All I need to do is combine two stereo outputs into a single set of speakers while maintaining reasonable sound quality. If anyone knows of a very small and simple mixer that will serve this purpose, I would greatly appreciate hearing about it. Thanks a lot. Take care, Ed Przybylek [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal
Our trash collectors now have a seperate green can for both garden clippings that can also take food waiste/ Apparrently they can now safely compost even meat leavings, bones ans spoiled food etc. I think that's the way things are going reduces sewage and landfill even more We have very little stuff that is actually sent to the land fill these days, or so they clai. Tom Fowle Suburban Hayward CA.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air conditioner carrier.
We have what sounds like a similar 2 wheel expandable carrier that is intended for luggage, made before luggage had wheels. We once brought home a 50 pound sack of fertelizer from a store 2 miles away over areas with no sidewalks using this carrier. It was a struggle but easier than carrying it. Look for luggage carriers, will take some care to keep things ballanced but may work Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Washer drainage hose lint catcher
Hi Betsy Got them at local grocery store rite near the laundry soap. They are lint catchers and fasten on with a regular cable tie. They weren't expensive at all. Tom Fowle On Sat, Mar 20, 2010 at 10:47:37AM -1000, Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press wrote: Aloha again, A few weeks ago we discussed solutions for keeping water from splashing when it drains from the washer. I took the suggestion to cover the end with a nylon stocking, but when it gets full it pops off of the hose even though I have it tied on and have a rubberband looped around it three times. I went to home Depo yesterday to buy one of the screen socks that someone mentioned but they didn't have one. Will whoever wrote about the sock please let me know where you purchased it? Thanks, Betsy Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rescreening a long screen
cott, Speaking from absolutely no experience, how about making a spreader that'll fit across the door in the middle of the long sides, maybe of 1 by 2 inc cott, Speaking from absolutely no experience, how about making a spreader that'll fit across the door in the middle of the long sides, maybe of 1 by 2 inch wood. Might have to cut notches into the ends to hold the door frame or maybe temporarilly tack the spreader in place with hot glue that should come off pretty easilly. Just off the top of head. Tom Fowle wood
[BlindHandyMan] can this be used by the blind?
Moderators, if this is unacceptably off topic I'll understand. Just to state my policy and maybe to cause a little OT flap, When I call a seller of a product that is not intended for blind folks, i never mention blindness or ask if there product can be used by the blind. Firstly how are they supposed to know, most sighted people havn't a clue, and second, you run the risk as was the case with a previous maker of talking meters, of causing the dealer to panic in fear of suits, and refuse to sell the product to blind folks. Mentioning blindness in that situation so rarely gets a usefull or positive response, and so often causes demonstrations of ignorance and prejudice, I don't think it's worth the risk. There are rare exceptions, sometimes in the case of travel it is to one's advantage to let a responsible hotel or airline etc. know you're blind and so on. But asking shmuck and company if there latest whizbang can be used by the blind is worse than a waiste of time. Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] TALKING DIGITAL MULTI METER WITH LIGHTED LEADS-MPJA, Inc.
At least here in the U.S. circuit city is dead. Check Marlin P. Jones's web site, I think they have at least a link called international sales? http://www.mpja.com look under test equipment, then digital multimeters, Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] update - TALKING DIGITAL MULTI METER WITH LIGHTED LEADS-MPJA, Inc.
those of us who have purchased these meters from MPJA and are happy with them should contact them and let them know so they are encouraged to continue carrying them. they probably got whines from some silly blindies who wanted labratory grade instruments for that price. So go buy one and stop being so bloody paranoid, besides there is the minor fact that it is the only talking meter now available. We have at least 3 of them here and they're just fine, especially for the price. I suppose some, blindies nobody on this list of course, just aren't happy unless they pay too much for poor quality junk as we so often do. Tom Fowle WA6IVG Smith-Kettlewell Rehav Engineering Research Center.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] update - TALKING DIGITAL MULTI METER WITH LIGHTED LEADS-MPJA, Inc.
I just talked to a lady at MPJA on the tech info line and told her that dozens of us have those meters and are quite happy with them, and that whom ever had the idea that some blind folks were not happy has it wrong. She seemed quite thrilled to have the call and said they would continue to bring them in and sell them as long as they could get them and sell. Hope that does the trick. She didn't seem worried at all by the prospect of selling to blind folks. tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Basement floor update.
Dan, I'd hang a piece of cardboard or something else to run into at the top of the empty shaft to help remind you. Of course it will just annoy you and you'll push by it anyhow but maybe worth a try. Maybe a nice hippy bead curtan. Tom On Mon, Mar 15, 2010 at 01:38:34PM -0400, Dan Rossi wrote: Not much to update. I have the majority of the floor structure in place, and all joists are blocked in nicely. That was quite tedious. I now need to put some PVC piping in place to limit the damage of any basement flooding due to a washer or water tank disaster, or incursion of water from the exterior door. Basically, just some pipes to channel the water directly to the main floor drain. Once that is done I can start laying down the decking. I am probably going to have to go a couple of weeks without basement stairs though. I can't put the last two joists in place until I rip out the old stairs. Then I will have to lay down, and block those last two joists, then put the decking down in that area, then build the new steps. Since I only get to work on this stuff on weekends, and have lots of other things to also get done on weekends chances are, that little bit of work will take two, or even three weekends to get done. Will have to be on my toes to remember not to just go running down to the basement during the time the stairs are missing. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] What's available for talking multi-meters?
Jerry, So far as I know the one from Marlin P. Jones is all that's available. If you really must have something better, then there are a variety of meters with serial ports some of which may be accessible via a computer, but what's available that way changes so fast I can't keep up with them. I've had some reports of problems with the leads on the MPJA meters, but overall they're pretty good. Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Basement floor update.
Dan, Put a glass jar just where the door will push it down the non-stairs when it opens if it swings the right way that is: the crash should get yor attension. Or the bucket of ice water on top of the door may do and would be more fun for us to imagine about Tom On Mon, Mar 15, 2010 at 02:39:50PM -0400, Dan Rossi wrote: Luckily, there is a door at the top of the basement stairs, and I can lock it. So it would be a multi-stage failure for me to forget the steps were gone, unlock the door, then walk off the edge. I'm not saying that is beyond my capabilities, but, somewhat less likely than if there were no door. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] SWR WATT METERS
Jon, Unfortunately there aren't any available except maybe used. the most recent thing is the LDG electronics TW1 which was a great piece of gear and which they aren't making any more. They come up used on swap nets occasionally. Other than that, if you are into building your own gear at all there are many designs for audible meter readers about, although they don't talk, they can be added to most swr meters thaa t have analog meter movements and make it easy to test/set tuners and so on. One could, I suppose, put a talking volt meter across the existing meter of some chosen commercial swr meter and do some scaling to get desired results. With all the digital junk around, some of which is pretty accessible there are still so many things that should be easy and aren't so. If you're interested in designs for meter readers, get in touch with me and I'll direct you to an appropriate design. tom Fowle WA6IVG
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Alternatives for Outlook Express!
claudia, That's O.K. we'll just see that you both get the BHM virus that makes you need to buy lots and lots of tools! GRIN Tom On Thu, Mar 11, 2010 at 01:35:21PM -0600, Claudia wrote: I'm sorry; I didn't mean to post this here, so if it's inappropriate, again, I apologize. Claudia - Original Message - From: Don To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 1:02 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Alternatives for Outlook Express! I have a new win 7 computer, I am running windows live mail, very screen reader friendly, almost like outlook express. I like it almost as well. Regards. From: Claudia Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 12:55 PM To: Technology list for the Blind and Vision Impaired Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Alternatives for Outlook Express! Okay, So, we're having a bad week here, with computers and such. First, the significant other gets a virus; then, our DSL modem goes bad, so I convinced our telephone service provider to give us a new one! Here is my question. The other half finally bit the bullet, and he's getting a new Windows 7 Home Premium laptop; what e-mail programs have you all used successfully, since I know that Outlook Express is not an option here. Thanks. My other question is this. Can a computer virus cause problems with a modem? I'm not saying they're related because I don't think the two incidences are, but I'm just curious. Claudia __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4936 (20100311) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4936 (20100311) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4936 (20100311) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cutting large glass bottles
Ray, My dad made a device to do that by stripping a couple feet of nicrome wire off of an electric heater and wrapping it tightly around the bottle to geti it hot quickly, then as you say dropping it into hot water. The resulting cut edge was usually quite sharp. It might be interesting to try it with regular wire and a 12 volt battery but I wonder if the heat rise in the wire wouldn't be so fast as to burn the wire before transferring much heat to the glass. Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Output valtage from a USB
Max It's twelve volts and each usb port can supply up to 500 MA however there is software negotiation to allow that much current draw, I don't know the pin configuration of the usb ports. Tom Fowle On Tue, Mar 02, 2010 at 08:30:12AM +1100, Agent086b wrote: Hi all, does anybody know the output voltage from a USB port on a computer. I wish to charge something but I don't know that voltage. Thanks for any advice. Max.
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Output valtage from a USB
It would be D.C. positive with respect to ground. Tom Fowle On Tue, Mar 02, 2010 at 08:36:40AM +1100, Agent086b wrote: Sorry for this. I forgot to ask if it is AC or DC current. Max. Original Message Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Output valtage from a USB From: Agent086b agent_0...@internode.on.net To: Handyman blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, 2 March 2010 08:30:12 Hi all, does anybody know the output voltage from a USB port on a computer. I wish to charge something but I don't know that voltage. Thanks for any advice. Max. Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Output valtage from a USB
I'll have to deferr to Ray's obviously reliable source and yell at the tech here who told me it was twelve volts Sorry Tom On Tue, Mar 02, 2010 at 09:03:51AM +1100, Ray Boyce wrote: Hi Max USB voltage: Supplied voltage by a host or a powered hub ports is between 4.75 V and 5.25 V. Maximum voltage drop for bus-powered hubs is 0.35 V from its host or hub to the hubs output port. All hubs and functions must be able to send configuration data at 4.4 V, but only low-power functions need to be working at this voltage. Normal operational voltage for functions is minimum 4.75 V. Found here http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Agent086b Sent: Tuesday, 2 March 2010 8:30 AM To: Handyman Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Output valtage from a USB Hi all, does anybody know the output voltage from a USB port on a computer. I wish to charge something but I don't know that voltage. Thanks for any advice. Max. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking multi meters
Peter, I hope the meter available fro, Marlin P. Jones enterprises is still around, it's $42.00 and although not a professionalk quality meter, is quite adequate for hoby work. http://www.mpja.com go to test equipment, then multimeters and it should be there. Tom Fowle On Mon, Mar 01, 2010 at 05:19:30PM -0500, Peter Mikochik wrote: hi guys are there talking multi meters to be had? thanks, pete
Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking multi meters
still there model 16562 talking multimeter with lighted leads $39.95 available several hundred in stock There is a manual and review on the BHM text site. tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Great idea.
Dan, If the wind is in your face, all that steam is going to come rite up at you. Oh well you probably won't freeze! Seriously I think the torch is too much of a point source to do a big area. Tom Fowle On Thu, Feb 18, 2010 at 08:13:57AM -0500, Dan Rossi wrote: So, how about strapping a tank of OxyAcetylene to my back, with a hose going over my shoulder and attaching to my cane. Spark the business end of my cane, and I can sweep a nice clean path through the snow ahead of me. Do you think it would work? This staggering to the bus stop thing is getting a bit grinding. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Questions About Brick Planters
I wasn't clear if you'd planned on the planter actually having its back edge being the wall of the house. If so, it's a really bad idea as soil against a wall not designed for it is a highway for water, mold, bugs etc. You'll need a brick back wall with some seperation between the brick and the house. There may well be building code issues both front and back. Tom fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Battery Charger!
I think it likely you charged alcaline cels, if you could be very sure they were rechargables then that would mean something very wrong with the charger. The goop that came out is not acid any more it is alcaly and thus you should really use acid, vinegar, for cleanup. White vinegar is fine. Tomm Fowle negar,
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Washer drainage hose splashes when emptying
How about a lint filter made for that purpose, I can get packs of 2 of them for a few bucks at any grocery store. They're a cylinder of coarse netting with ine closed end that you fasten to the end of the hose with a cable tie. I understand keeping lint out of the sewer systems can also reduce clogging. My first filter has lasted 6 months and still isn't full. You just toss the filter in the trash when it starts to impeed the drain flow. Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing up
With small joints just forcing a thin dull knife in any possible opening and wiggling it along being carefull not to let thin pieces bend across the grain where they can break. With larger joins hot water in paper towels soaking at the join can help loosen things, then just carefull force. I've also heard of but not tried whiite vinegar soaks, but care with finishes is required there. Tom On Sat, Jan 30, 2010 at 05:05:07PM -0500, Spiro wrote: how does one undo hide glue? Very interesting, thanks On Sat, 30 Jan 2010, Tom Fowle wrote: With celos and bases when we were doing large joints that should never have to be broken apart again, we warmed the pieces with an alcohol lamp and added a bit of hot water before applying the hot hide glue. I shouldn't think this would be necessary except for glues that are dissolved in water as hide glue is. I also doubt hide glue is used any more except for instruments. It is still used there because it does not set up rubbery as do some modern glues, and because if you need too break a joint, the glue will break before the wood. This is critical when repairing fine instruments where losing any old wood is not an option. Tom Fowle On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 11:12:20PM -0500, Spiro wrote: is it true that with wood and the older wood glues, the wood should be wetted or damp first? I've heard this several times. On Wed, 27 Jan 2010, Tom Hodges wrote: Depends on the type of glue, for instance, contact cement, PVC cement, and some others, require glue to be applied to both surfaces. From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 4:22 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing up You only need glue on one surface, and even then only enough to squeeze out a little. Also, you only need enough pressure from a clamp to draw the 2 pieces together. If you notice glue squeezing out while tightening the clamp, that's time to stop. - Original Message - From: Keith Christian To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 1:32 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing up I usually run a glue bottle along the edge of the 2 surfaces to be glued up leaving a bead. Then I smear it with my finger to see that the area will get covered. I do want to get good coverage, but I think I use more than I need. Glue usually comes out of the joints and I end up cleaning it after it dries. It could be said that I need to trust less glue! I think my method is wasteful and creates more work than is necessary, especially because of the clean up. Sometimes it feels necessary to put all that glue on. But, I'd be interested in hearing other's methods of gluing, if you don't mind sharing. What I am thinking is running a small bead of glue on one side instead of both to start with. Or putting some glue on a paper plate, running my finger in the glue and wiping it on one surface and not both. Thanks, Keith [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Why does my Propane heater burn so dirty?
I wonder if both these cases may not have to do with improperly adjusted gas/air mixtures? I don't think you should be running the heater that produces a gas smell as it sounds like incomplete combustion could be allowing unburned gas into the room. I know my natural gas wall heater has an air intake adjustment valve that the local gas company adjusted for the particular local gas BTU rating. I would definitely get both of these professionally checked. Tom Fowle On Mon, Feb 01, 2010 at 04:44:54PM -0500, Rick Hume wrote: Good question Jerry! And since you asked, I am wondering why my garage natural gas heater smells strongly like gas when operating. The unit is only a few years old, and I clean it out frequently, but I am now getting the gas smell when it's burning. - Original Message - From: Jerry Richer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 4:19 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Why does my Propane heater burn so dirty? I have a 100 pound Propane tank outside the house. I have three Propane appliances that run off that tank. They are an ordinary cook stove, an ordinary double oven, and a Propane space heater. The stove and oven burn perfectly cleanly, no smell, nothing, just heat. The space heater gives off smoke, it stinks, and the walls all around the living room where the heater is are darkened about ten feet off the floor. Why do the stove and oven burn so cleanly and the heater so dirty? I know I'm supposed to clean the heater every year. Why is it that I never have to clean the stove or the oven? Thanks. Jerry [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing up
With celos and bases when we were doing large joints that should never have to be broken apart again, we warmed the pieces with an alcohol lamp and added a bit of hot water before applying the hot hide glue. I shouldn't think this would be necessary except for glues that are dissolved in water as hide glue is. I also doubt hide glue is used any more except for instruments. It is still used there because it does not set up rubbery as do some modern glues, and because if you need too break a joint, the glue will break before the wood. This is critical when repairing fine instruments where losing any old wood is not an option. Tom Fowle On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 11:12:20PM -0500, Spiro wrote: is it true that with wood and the older wood glues, the wood should be wetted or damp first? I've heard this several times. On Wed, 27 Jan 2010, Tom Hodges wrote: Depends on the type of glue, for instance, contact cement, PVC cement, and some others, require glue to be applied to both surfaces. From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 4:22 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing up You only need glue on one surface, and even then only enough to squeeze out a little. Also, you only need enough pressure from a clamp to draw the 2 pieces together. If you notice glue squeezing out while tightening the clamp, that's time to stop. - Original Message - From: Keith Christian To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 1:32 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing up I usually run a glue bottle along the edge of the 2 surfaces to be glued up leaving a bead. Then I smear it with my finger to see that the area will get covered. I do want to get good coverage, but I think I use more than I need. Glue usually comes out of the joints and I end up cleaning it after it dries. It could be said that I need to trust less glue! I think my method is wasteful and creates more work than is necessary, especially because of the clean up. Sometimes it feels necessary to put all that glue on. But, I'd be interested in hearing other's methods of gluing, if you don't mind sharing. What I am thinking is running a small bead of glue on one side instead of both to start with. Or putting some glue on a paper plate, running my finger in the glue and wiping it on one surface and not both. Thanks, Keith [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing up
Keith, If you're talking about well prepared surfaces that fit together well and are clean, then you need veryy little glue to make a good join. Using good old elmers for example I apply from the bottle just a thin coat to both sides and then make sure I clamp well. Clean up of course is always a necessity, but too much glue is just messy and waistfull. The paper plate is just waiste paper and glue. When I applied hide glue to violin parts I used a very thin knife, not sharp but like a table knife but very thin. This acted as a spreader but since it was metal it wouldn't absorb any hot hide glue but just acted as a carrier and spreader. On very large joins I sometimes used a small brush but then I always warmed the pieces to be joined and tried again to get just enough glue. If you clamp well, you'll force the glue to distribute properly. prep and clamping is the big secret more glue won't help if things aren't clean, fitting and stable while drying. Hope that gives you some ideas tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question
Jennifer, I agree with Bob, but might add that if you can figure out which fuse or circuit breaker the light socket is on and the ampere rating of that fuse or breaker it might be good to know. If there are a lot of lights also on that circuit and waistfull sightlings turn them on a lot you might run up on an amperage limit if the circuit is very old and maybe fused for only 10 amps or so. But unless you run big braille embossers and lots of other gizmos I doubt you'll have a problem. Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical outlet question
On further reading, I agree with Dale and Dan, the light socket doesn't have a safety ground, therefore any surge protectors etc. will be ineffective and your computer will be even more vulnerable to damage from electrical surges, close lightning, etc. An electrician might charge you a bundle and therefore not be practical, but you should reallyy have a fairly short run of cords to a properly installed and grounded 3 prong socket I think a 15 amp circuit is plenty as long as it isn't shared with other heavy appliances, heaters etc. Tom Fowle On Fri, Jan 22, 2010 at 07:36:14AM -0500, Dan Rossi wrote: I agree with Scott, Ron, Dale, and Bob. I don't like the idea of using the light socket as an outlet for many reasons, grounding being a big one, accidentally ripping the fixture out of the ceiling being another. Maybe someone with more knowledge than I can weigh in with some real information, but I didn't think that a light socket was designed to pull a lot of current through it. A computer, speakers, and monitor shouldn't be drawing 15 amps or anything, but still. If the outlet in the living room is on the outside of the closet wall, it would be easy enough to put an outlet in the closet, or turn the existing one around. I realize you may not want to do that work yourself, and electricians don't come cheap. So, I'm not sure what the best solution is for you. Sorry, just wanted to reinforce what others have said so far. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Metal tape measure from MaxiAids
Betsy, The tape is marked withdots every 6 inches. To measure, you lign up the tape dot that is short of your measure,ment with the end of the 6 inch ruler and use the ruler to get the remaining measurement. I find it a huge pain but it's cheaper than the overpriced talking rulers. Tomm Fowle On Fri, Jan 22, 2010 at 06:17:36PM -0500, frank cunningham wrote: Betsy, it is a 6 inch ruler that can be detached if you wish. The tape slides under the ruler as you pull it out. Frank - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 6:07 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Metal tape measure from MaxiAids Aloha everyone, Have any of you purchase the metal tape measure from Maxi Aids? My friend bought one and says that it has a piece of plastic sticking out from the end of the device. The plastic is about 6 inches long. Anyone know anything about this thing? TIA, Betsy Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] newkitchen faucets
If the high spout will swing full circle then he could have turned it round but unless he soldered it in which is unlikely, it should be easy to fix, except for removing any calk he may have put under the base of the faucet, Most modern faucets don't even need wrenches except for the connections to the shuroffs. Tom Fowle On Tue, Jan 19, 2010 at 07:25:14PM -0500, Lee A. Stone wrote: yes it is a dual handle only idifference is it has a high neck on the faucet . I was hoping this was some new design. oh well stuff happens. thanks On Tue, Jan 19, 2010 at 06:52:18PM -0500, RJ wrote: Lee, to answer your question. Yes. I take it is a double handled faucet? If it is a single lever, most handles are to the right side of the faucet. If a double handles, most handle turn on toward you or away from the back flash or wall. And turn off usually pushed away from you or toward the wall. RJ - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: Blind Handyman Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 18:42 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] newkitchen faucets Is it possible to put a new kitchen faucet on backwards? I hired someone who I thought did a good job to install a new high neck kitchen faucet it is a low end delta and did not go for the higher priced ones as I am told by several due to our hard water and sometimes excessive chlorine we would be lucky to get a unit to last much more than 5 years. so for $132 and change this man installed the new unit and he had to cut one pipe out with a sawzaw . installed to new under the sink shutoffs. Now I am told he did it backwards as the handles must move to the wall to turn on and off. so is it possible to install one backwards? I'm hanging up my handyman apron and thinking of going into the claymoor mine business. Lee -- The duck hunter trained his retriever to walk on water. Eager to show off this amazing accomplishment, he asked a friend to go along on his next hunting trip. Saying nothing, he fired his first shot and, as the duck fell, the dog walked on the surface of the water, retrieved the duck and returned it to his master. Notice anything? the owner asked eagerly. Yes, said his friend, I see that fool dog of yours can't swim. . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- The duck hunter trained his retriever to walk on water. Eager to show off this amazing accomplishment, he asked a friend to go along on his next hunting trip. Saying nothing, he fired his first shot and, as the duck fell, the dog walked on the surface of the water, retrieved the duck and returned it to his master. Notice anything? the owner asked eagerly. Yes, said his friend, I see that fool dog of yours can't swim. .
Re: [BlindHandyMan] question about wood filler
I doubt a filler will hold screws, If you have the space, how about drilling out the screw holes to maybe 3/8ths inch and gluing dowels in them to take the new screw holes then filling in the rest with plastic wood before sand and finishing. Drill for the dowels as deep as you dare to give yiu plenty of gripping surface. Even if you replaced the wood with a new chunk and could ,match the color, you'd want to put in some pins between tghe new and old wood to gain strength Tom
Re: [BlindHandyMan] NLS digital player
As Annley says the nls digital players, there are 2 models, are superb. I had one of the advanced models for beta testing a year or so ago, and even though I now have a stream which I like a lot, I'd also like to have an NLS player I won't take list space for a review, there are some good reviews around if you look, but the audio quality is outstanding, including the speaker, and navigation bookmarking etc. are just great. the difference in the two models is that the simple version does not have multi-level navigation and bookmarking etc. it's intended for folks who can barely run a cassette and will be even easier than a tape machine to operate. Tom Fowle On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 09:50:07PM -0800, Annely Rose wrote: I have seen the new NLS player. One of my client's has one. It looks really great. Her husband and she like it very much. It's about 1/3 the size of the cassette player. When a button is pressed, it tells you what the button is. There is only one cartridge (I'm not sure of the correct name: for each book. The sound is very clear, too. I'm a CVRT in the Florida Panhandle. I prefer this to the old cassette player. I contacted my reader advisor about their distribution, but she doesn't know anything about how they are distributing it except that vets and persons over 100 years old get it first. She said these have all been distributed. 3107 N. Davis Hwy. Pensacola, Florida 32503 Work cell: (850) 554-5162d
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Happy new year
Very best wishes to all of you contributers, owners moderators and quiet readers. for the new year. Hopefully the second dacade of this century will be an improvement on the first. Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] shopping for plywood
Quarter sawn is done with the saw on the radius of the log. So you get wedges of whatever size you want, then plain them down to desired flat boards. Usually logs are turned into boards by simply starting at one side and sawing off parallel boards rite across the entire log. In quarter sawn, the center of the original tree is one edge of each board. I think the main advantage is visual, but there may be some strength advantages. The stock for violin family backs and tops is always quarter sawn. tom fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Access Ability: Review of the iBill talking banknote identifier
Thanks for this review, it's about time this kind of thing came down in price and size. Tom Fowle
[BlindHandyMan] Re: Omega UV1000 parital report:
Some folks revently asked about the Omega engineering UV1000, (Universal voice) module. We bought one and I can give a partial report. Unfortunagely the didn't include the special programming cable so i can't yet report on there software that lets you change spoken scalings and units. this is essentially a programmable talking volt/current/temperature meter for $239/00 It can operate from 2 AA cells, lithium AA's included or an external power supply, also included. The box is about 1 by 3 by 5 inches and has the speaker rite where it belongs, on the back! On the front are 3 holes for test leads, common, current and voltage, and a connector for the thermocouple with 2 flat pins. the top edge contains 2 switches, on/off and continuous/command talk. and 3 jacks, power, earphone, and RS232 for the cable they left out. As shipped the unit measures 0-10 volts D.C. and 4-20Ma current, a common range used in industrial instrumentation as well as reading the included thermocouple. When you set up there software you can program different input ranges to produce your desired output readings and appropriate units. for example if you had it hooked to a pressure guage which measured 0-100PSI and produced 0-5 volts output, you could program it to read 100 pounds when the voltage reading was 5 volts. I'll report more on the software when I get the calbe. Unfortunately this device is anything but universal, it has no means of reading digital data, even if there were a standard for transmitting such data which there really isn't them's the fundamentals, I'd stick to our old favorite chinese talking meter from MPJA for $43.00, if you really need temperature measurements you can get temperature probes for similar meters. On the subject of instrumentation standards, I think our best bet is that more and more devices are being network enabled so that at least minimal tcp/ip and ppp standards are used and probably many such devices use web type interfaces making it at least somewhat likely that they might just be accessible. So don't buy an Omega UV1000 unless you really need one, and again, don't buy from Omega and tell them you're blind, they're paranoid. Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Omega UV1000 parital report:
Lenny, Yep, about as universal as universal design Tom On Thu, Dec 17, 2009 at 06:24:33PM -0500, Lenny McHugh wrote: Tom, great report. When I first stumbled upon the site it sounded like something that the blind community could benefit. - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle fo...@ski.org To: blindHandyMan blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 5:24 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Omega UV1000 parital report: Some folks revently asked about the Omega engineering UV1000, (Universal voice) module. We bought one and I can give a partial report. Unfortunagely the didn't include the special programming cable so i can't yet report on there software that lets you change spoken scalings and units. this is essentially a programmable talking volt/current/temperature meter for $239/00 It can operate from 2 AA cells, lithium AA's included or an external power supply, also included. The box is about 1 by 3 by 5 inches and has the speaker rite where it belongs, on the back! On the front are 3 holes for test leads, common, current and voltage, and a connector for the thermocouple with 2 flat pins. the top edge contains 2 switches, on/off and continuous/command talk. and 3 jacks, power, earphone, and RS232 for the cable they left out. As shipped the unit measures 0-10 volts D.C. and 4-20Ma current, a common range used in industrial instrumentation as well as reading the included thermocouple. When you set up there software you can program different input ranges to produce your desired output readings and appropriate units. for example if you had it hooked to a pressure guage which measured 0-100PSI and produced 0-5 volts output, you could program it to read 100 pounds when the voltage reading was 5 volts. I'll report more on the software when I get the calbe. Unfortunately this device is anything but universal, it has no means of reading digital data, even if there were a standard for transmitting such data which there really isn't them's the fundamentals, I'd stick to our old favorite chinese talking meter from MPJA for $43.00, if you really need temperature measurements you can get temperature probes for similar meters. On the subject of instrumentation standards, I think our best bet is that more and more devices are being network enabled so that at least minimal tcp/ip and ppp standards are used and probably many such devices use web type interfaces making it at least somewhat likely that they might just be accessible. So don't buy an Omega UV1000 unless you really need one, and again, don't buy from Omega and tell them you're blind, they're paranoid. Tom Fowle Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links __ NOD32 4697 (20091217) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Universal Verbalizer OMEGASAYS
rob and all, this looks like a fancy somewhat programmable talking meter. It is probably intended to be used with a variety of sensors, temperature, pressure etc. which produce electrical current or voltage outputs. Omega makes lots of such sensors. The page can't be displayed on my browser, so I'll contact them and find out more. If I know Omega, it will not be at all cheap. If any body else contacts them, for heavens sake do not under any circumstances mention blindness. They used to sell a good, if costly, talking meter but took it off the market because they were afraid of blind people suing them. We'll buy one here and give it a run for it's money and report. Thanks for bringing this to my attension, it may be very usefull when properly combined with the appropriate sensors. Tom Fowle Embedded Systems Developer/ Rehab engineer Rehabilitation Engineering Research Center The Smith-Kettlewell Eye Research Institute 2318 Fillmore St. San Francisco, CA 94115 415-345-2123 (Voice) fo...@ski.org On Wed, Dec 09, 2009 at 04:25:48PM -0600, Rob Monitor wrote: HI, Would someone please explain just what this thing does.. Well I did look at the web. site but I'm still not to clear what it does.. Maybe it's just me from living up here in the frozen north just don't understand.. ROB FROM MINNESOTA- Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 5:53 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Universal Verbalizer OMEGASAYS® Could this be adapted to some tools? The new UV1000 OMEGASAYS® universal verbalizer is a handheld, process-signal to speech device that actually talks! It can can verbalize 0 to 10 Vdc, 0 to 20 mA, and Type K thermocouple inputs. Configure the verbalizer using the RS232 PC interface to specify the input range, engineering scale, engineering unit, and high and low alarm set-points. Select from over 100 engineering units while configuring the verbalizer. The front keypad allows the user to select different inputs, command talk, and adjust volume control. The UV1000 is a perfect solution for verbalizing any type of control signal where a local display may not be available. TRY THE INTERACTIVE DEMO BELOW! Specifications Voltage Input: 0 to 1 Vdc, 0 to 5 Vdc, 0 to 10 Vdc Current Input: 0 to 20 mA, 4 to 20 mA Analog Input Accuracy: 1% of full scale Thermocouple Input: Type K, SMP connection Thermocouple Range: -100 to 871°C (-148 to 1600°F) Thermocouple Input Accuracy: 2°C (3.6°F) Command/Continuous Talk: Set via slide switch High Low Alarm Set Points: Set via RS232 PC interface Engineering Scale: Set via RS232 PC interface Engineering Unit: Set via RS232 PC interface Volume Control: Set via keypad, 8 levels at 4 dB intervals Power: 2 AA size batteries, or AC adaptor (both included) Power Indication: Red LED Low Battery Indication: Red LED, flashing Speech Sampling Rate: 8 KHz Speaker: Built-in, 8 O Battery Life: 40 Hours: Continuous talking mode (alkaline battery) 160 Hours: Continuous talking mode (lithium battery) Operating Ambient Temperature: 0 to 50°C (32 to 122°F) Operating Relative Humidity: 0 to 95% RH (non-condensing) Dimensions: 120 L x 76 W x 32 mm D (4.75 x 3 x 1.25) Weight: 250 g (0.55 lbs) http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=UV1000 Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Universal Verbalizer OMEGASAYS
Lenny, Sadly the digital tools usually don't allow external access to the changing voltages or currents this device can read. Unfortunately makers of digital tools have still not decided on a standardized way to bring data out of there tools for external display. This is one of the curses of inventors, they don't want to cooperate or do there homework. everyone wants to do there own thing there own way. Tom Fowle On Wed, Dec 09, 2009 at 06:11:53PM -0500, Lenny McHugh wrote: I tend to agree. I just wonder if it could be used to make some digital tools talk. - Original Message - From: Rob Monitor mre...@means.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 5:25 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Universal Verbalizer OMEGASAYS® HI, Would someone please explain just what this thing does.. Well I did look at the web. site but I'm still not to clear what it does.. Maybe it's just me from living up here in the frozen north just don't understand.. ROB FROM MINNESOTA- Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 5:53 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Universal Verbalizer OMEGASAYS® Could this be adapted to some tools? The new UV1000 OMEGASAYS® universal verbalizer is a handheld, process-signal to speech device that actually talks! It can can verbalize 0 to 10 Vdc, 0 to 20 mA, and Type K thermocouple inputs. Configure the verbalizer using the RS232 PC interface to specify the input range, engineering scale, engineering unit, and high and low alarm set-points. Select from over 100 engineering units while configuring the verbalizer. The front keypad allows the user to select different inputs, command talk, and adjust volume control. The UV1000 is a perfect solution for verbalizing any type of control signal where a local display may not be available. TRY THE INTERACTIVE DEMO BELOW! Specifications Voltage Input: 0 to 1 Vdc, 0 to 5 Vdc, 0 to 10 Vdc Current Input: 0 to 20 mA, 4 to 20 mA Analog Input Accuracy: 1% of full scale Thermocouple Input: Type K, SMP connection Thermocouple Range: -100 to 871°C (-148 to 1600°F) Thermocouple Input Accuracy: 2°C (3.6°F) Command/Continuous Talk: Set via slide switch High Low Alarm Set Points: Set via RS232 PC interface Engineering Scale: Set via RS232 PC interface Engineering Unit: Set via RS232 PC interface Volume Control: Set via keypad, 8 levels at 4 dB intervals Power: 2 AA size batteries, or AC adaptor (both included) Power Indication: Red LED Low Battery Indication: Red LED, flashing Speech Sampling Rate: 8 KHz Speaker: Built-in, 8 O Battery Life: 40 Hours: Continuous talking mode (alkaline battery) 160 Hours: Continuous talking mode (lithium battery) Operating Ambient Temperature: 0 to 50°C (32 to 122°F) Operating Relative Humidity: 0 to 95% RH (non-condensing) Dimensions: 120 L x 76 W x 32 mm D (4.75 x 3 x 1.25) Weight: 250 g (0.55 lbs) http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=UV1000 Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com
Re: [BlindHandyMan] watches
Jennifer, I've worn braille watches while sailing and got them briefly splashed, they survived O.K. but I wouldn't bet on it. I'm pretty sure that actual emersion would be fatal. It's just not possible to properly seal the lid. tom Fowle On Thu, Dec 10, 2009 at 11:10:35AM -0600, Jennifer Jackson wrote: How do the braille watches do with getting wet? My thought is that once dried out everything should go back to working fine, but I do not know. Can you still buy the old wind up alarm clocks with Braille? I have not come across one, but I have not been searching for one either. It seems like such a practical thing to have. Jennifer - Original Message - From: jim To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 11:08 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] watches hi Jennifer i too love the talking watches but i do wood work and love to fish allot so i am killing them constantly. i got an old Braille watch from ebay and it has been working good for 2 years now. and i like it because it is quiet. but on the other hand the talking ones have the date and account down or up timer. as for your question on why they say the time is, well there made by sighted persons that think they are a novelty item and don't care how they really get used. Jim [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!
Therese no doubt gizmos like this work, the way I've seen it done is with a so-called audio output transformer which are commonly available at radio shlock. these have two windings, the primary has several hundred turns at least whereas the secondary has relatively few turns. If you connect/disconnect a battery to the secondary momentarilly, the magnetic field building and collapsing in that small winding with induce a much higher voltage field in the primary which has many more turns. This can give a peak voltage of several hundred volts but with no real amount of current available, thus very little danger. I used to see a coffee can with a crank built up as a temptation to turn the crank which got you quite a noticable shock. Using a single coil will also work but probably with not as high an output spike. Tom Fowle On Thu, Dec 03, 2009 at 11:34:35PM -0500, John Sherrer wrote: I was thinking of a solenoid coil used in washing machine to turn the water on and off. They are cheap. I as also thinking that the voltage spike might two or three thousand volts. The voltage spike occurs when the voltage supply is turned on or off, but no spike when the coil has power or is off, only when change happens is their a voltage spike. A friend of mine, when I was a teenager had a book with an aluminum foil cover. When you opened the book or cclosed the book, you got a little bite. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Tom Fowle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 1:39 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy! John's ideas are interesting, that solenoid coil would have to have a lot of turns on it, I'm not sure dogs responde to even moderate electric shocks as much as humans do, I think they need say 600 volts or so to make them take notice. I like the meat tray and pans idea except it'll wak up everyone in the house too. Maybe just a wireless baby monitor placed near the plate would give you enough sound to start yelling at him. What you don't want is false positives, if the thing goes off when it shouldn't the dog will quickly learn to ignore it because he doesn't know what it means. Tom Fowle [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Alining a saw blade when ripping
Max, If you can get ahold of a vernier caliper most of those have inside, outside and depth measuring points. You can then more easilly set the measurement you want from the tape to the outside points on the caliper, then use the inside points to transferr it to the inside measure between the blade and fence. You still have to make sure you're at 90 degrees. You can also put a regular tri square on the outside or opposite side of the blade and add the blade cut width to your measurement. I believe NFB has something about international sales on there store web site, that may help. tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Motion Alarm or Chime w/2 Remotes Customer Visitor Chimes pleasant alert ding-dong chime melody when customer enters.
considering the cost of Lenny's motion sensor, if you cn tape it down to work as needed, and if you can get one, this might be a good thing to try. tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!
John's ideas are interesting, that solenoid coil would have to have a lot of turns on it, I'm not sure dogs responde to even moderate electric shocks as much as humans do, I think they need say 600 volts or so to make them take notice. I like the meat tray and pans idea except it'll wak up everyone in the house too. Maybe just a wireless baby monitor placed near the plate would give you enough sound to start yelling at him. What you don't want is false positives, if the thing goes off when it shouldn't the dog will quickly learn to ignore it because he doesn't know what it means. Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!
Jewel, save your printer's ink for the moment! Actually my plan from yesterday is probably too simple, it requires the dog actually lift the plate or whatever which is not likely. My colleague Bill Gerrey says no dog can be trained not to take food. but I've certainly known dogs that didn't. There are mat switches which are a flexible plastic mat you could put under the table cloth which would probably not be closed by the plate but might be closed by the dog's paws on the table. this could set off the alarm. Getting fancier one could make a small say foot square, mini table with foam rubber legs so it would vibrate easilly. This would be equipped with a vibration sensor that would set off the alarm. Even fancier, there are infrared motion detectors and proximity detectors that might do. Bill also suggests putting a contact type guitar pickup, essentially a contact microphone on the table. This could be hooked either just to an amplifier and speaker, or to a wireless baby monitor whose receiver you could take with you to hear the invading beast. Let's throw this idea around a bit, those with more experience of dogs than i have may have better ideas related to training techniques etc. Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!
Jewel, Yeah considering the size of some of the guide dogs I've seen recently I'm not surprised about Buddy's reach. One advantage, i think, of the babby monitor idea is that the correction comes from you, the boss lady, where corrections should come from, not from some unknown noise maker. but the system made for pets might be good if it's not too expensive. Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!
Jewel, One of the best guide dogs I've ever seen was trained by his woner, a long time friend now deceased He was part great dane, part german shepherd and weighte in at 120 pounds. I've actually never met a mastiff but I have a picture of huge GRIN I'm sure you'll find your proof of smartness, question is will it be proof enough for Buddy! the combination you need, or so i think from my position of inexperience, of brains and disciplin is a tricky ballance I bet, but I'm sure you'll do it right. tom Fowle
[BlindHandyMan] Re: inventors ahoy
Jewel, I think, from my out dated study of rewards in psychology, that what happened with the shock collar was intermittent reward. that can be good if trying to teach a positive behaviour, but trying to suppress an undesirable behaviour requires very consistant and immediate negative rewards I bet the real collar smelled different possibly because of the batteries involved. Tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Music in my shed
The booster is a radio frequency amplifier you put on the output of the transmitter, between it and the antenna. That should work fine if the transmitter is made to drive a 75 ohm antenn system. The cheaper transmitters are made to drive a short whip directly which may not be a 75 ohm match. the audio source into the transmitter is just like driving any audio line level input. tom a
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Music in my shed
Max, Yeah, of course you're right, especially since you don't need the full possible output of the amplifier. Have fun and let us know how it works. Tom Fowle On Tue, Dec 01, 2009 at 10:34:53PM -0600, Max Robinson wrote: Impedance mismatches cause power loss. That matters if you are running 100,000 watts or even 25 watts but all I expect to be putting out is a couple of hundred milliwatts. Even if I use a 1/4 wave whip which has a nominal impedance of 50 ohms and the TV booster has an output impedance of 75 ohms the small mismatch and low power won't cause any trouble. The C Crain transmitter has nothing but a short whip. I would have to open up the back, something I'm not afraid to do, and find the ground so I can take off a coaxial line to the booster. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: Spiro sp...@iamspiro.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 9:34 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Music in my shed if max puts an antenna on a booster; would his trouble be the match between the output of the booster and the rca inputs of the transmitter? Don't the C-Cranes take rca input? On Tue, 1 Dec 2009, Tom Fowle wrote: Max, that will probably work, since those wide band boosters have to produce a relatively high amount of total power out, many low powered chanels added together with one input gives you one pretty big boom, you may get as much as 2 watts or so out of them. this according to our friend Richard Oehm who works in the TV and cable industries. this is highly illegal in the U.S. where the limit for unlicensed transmitters is a hundred milliwatts. However they gotta catch you and the FCC should have better things to do. Only problem you may have is providing a proper load for the xmitter since it was probably designed for a very low impedance whip antenna. have fun Tom WA6IVG On Sat, Nov 28, 2009 at 11:09:10PM -0600, Max Robinson wrote: In the next few months I'm going to play with hanging a TV/FM booster on the C Crain. If it works I'll let everyone know. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 8:12 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Music in my shed Mine does a lot better than that! What I do like about it over others I have used is the sound quality, it doesn't seem to lose the highs or lows say like my satellite car transmitter or the one I have from Radio Shack, brand unknown. It transmits more reliably than the RCA cordless headphones I have too. There is one corner though where it doesn't seem to reach no matter how I alter the antenna. If you know of a better transmitter I would be interested to hear of it. - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 8:56 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Music in my shed Don't mess with one of those C Crain transmitters. They have a range of about 10 feet line of sight. About 5 feet through a wall. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: john schwery jschw...@embarqmail.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 5:37 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Music in my shed Max, if you get an fm transmitter get what is called a whole house transmitter. Another option would be wireless speakers. earlier, Agent086b, wrote: Hi all, not sure if this will be considered handyman stuff or not. I wish to set up a set of speakers in my shed so as I can
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!
Hi Jewel, I've noticed recently trained guide dogs I've seen are much more prone to such inappropriate behavior than they used to be. I'll not subject you and the list to my somewhat prejudiced opinions about why GRIN The device is electrically simple, and I bet you can find the parts at a radio shack if you have those available. All you need is a battery, probably 9 volt with connector, a 'normally closed switch of the push button type, and the noise maker. I bet shlock sells a lout alarm type noise maker all in one just what you need, I'll get my wife to look some time in a couple days and see if we can give you a number. Most push button switches have 3 terminals, the swinger and normally closed and normally open contacts. You just wire a loop with the battery, it's negative terminal going to the negative terminal of the alarm, the positive battery terminal goes to the swinger of the switch, and the normally closed contact of the switch goes to the positive terminal of the alarm. that means the thing is not screaming till you release the button. The trick is packaging it the way you like. You could even make a box with a hinged top arranges so that when the top has no weight on it, the switch is not pressed, but when the top is pressed down by more weight it presses the switch nd opens the contact the contact to the alarm. If you can build it your self, you're more likely to get what you want physically than if I for example built you one, but I could do so if nobody closer offers. You don't have to solder wires, small wire nuts' should do the job, just strip wires, twist together and maybe add a bit of tape. Rest is obtaining the box, parts and deciding how to mount stuff. does this help any? tom Fowle
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Inventors ahoy!
Jewel, Make sure what ever alarm you get does not sound too much like you're smoke alarm, you don't want to be yelling at the dog when you should be putting out fires GRIN Let me know if more is required. Just realized one of our engineers will be available tomorrow so we can look up shlock alarm parts. tom
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Music in my shed
Max, that will probably work, since those wide band boosters have to produce a relatively high amount of total power out, many low powered chanels added together with one input gives you one pretty big boom, you may get as much as 2 watts or so out of them. this according to our friend Richard Oehm who works in the TV and cable industries. this is highly illegal in the U.S. where the limit for unlicensed transmitters is a hundred milliwatts. However they gotta catch you and the FCC should have better things to do. Only problem you may have is providing a proper load for the xmitter since it was probably designed for a very low impedance whip antenna. have fun Tom WA6IVG On Sat, Nov 28, 2009 at 11:09:10PM -0600, Max Robinson wrote: In the next few months I'm going to play with hanging a TV/FM booster on the C Crain. If it works I'll let everyone know. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens dleav...@puc.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 8:12 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Music in my shed Mine does a lot better than that! What I do like about it over others I have used is the sound quality, it doesn't seem to lose the highs or lows say like my satellite car transmitter or the one I have from Radio Shack, brand unknown. It transmits more reliably than the RCA cordless headphones I have too. There is one corner though where it doesn't seem to reach no matter how I alter the antenna. If you know of a better transmitter I would be interested to hear of it. - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 8:56 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Music in my shed Don't mess with one of those C Crain transmitters. They have a range of about 10 feet line of sight. About 5 feet through a wall. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to. funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: john schwery jschw...@embarqmail.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 5:37 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Music in my shed Max, if you get an fm transmitter get what is called a whole house transmitter. Another option would be wireless speakers. earlier, Agent086b, wrote: Hi all, not sure if this will be considered handyman stuff or not. I wish to set up a set of speakers in my shed so as I can listen to music when working on my projects. I am not able to run wires underground as I must go under a large area of concrete. I could run a conduit from the house to the shed several meters up in the air. My wife would not be to keen on this idea. Is it possible to find some sort of fm or similar transmitter to transmit from my computer to a radio frequency that I could tune in on my radio in the shed? I could then put a CD on the computer and listen to my heart's content. Thanks for any help on this one. Max. John [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to:
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Reviving NiCd Batteries
Gill, this can work if individual cells in the pack are actually shorted. This is usually proven when after a charge attempt the pack voltage is down by 1.2 volts or some multiple of that. You're correct this must be done while monitoring the pack voltage and doing it in short bursts of time. I've actually done this with less current limiting, and that may help to burn through the whiskers internally that cause the shorts, but it increases the risk of overheating. It's much better to do it on individual cells but of course on packs you can't often get at them. I think you'll find the pack will not really get back to full capacity and will probably develop more shorts in the not very far future, but heck it gives you some more capacity on the pack. Tom Fowle
[BlindHandyMan] Re: another measuring device:
tom, This is a very fancy and neat story stick. idea. I'm trying to think of how to do the half flat on the dowell without power tools I wonder if one could get a chunk of square extruded tubing and a rod that'd fit it. This might allow one to tap the bolt into the outside square piece thus avoiding the need for the half flat. Also might be more stable with the square outside. Just pondering how to make it all much too fancy and hard GRIN Neat design. Tom Fowle
