Stus-List Exhaust mixing elbow
Our 34 has the original Yanmar 3GM which is working like a charm. How does one tell if the mixing elbow is due for replacement??. Ours still has the original mixing elbow which we removed and inspected about 12 years ago. It was fine. Lots of water comes out the exhaust and engine performance is fine. Engine is used mostly for motoring in and out of the mooring field with periodic runs of an hour or so to get to the starting line. I was thinking of removing the hose and use a mirror and spot light to look inside?? John and Maryann Legacy III 1982 CC 34 Noank, CT --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Exhaust hose replacement for 33-1
Rick, Did you buy access panels that were ready to install? If so, where? Sounds like a great improvement over the 6 inch access port I currently have there. I will be installing a boarding ladder this winter, and that would help a lot. Also for adjusting the tension in the steering cables on the quadrant. Eric Frank ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
I decided to attack some long deferred maintenance and removed the teak grab rail that is on the forward part of the cabin top, port side. It looks like water has been getting into the screw holes and my wife says 41 years of natural look teak is enough. So I figured I could take the teak off, sand and Cetol it off the boat, and seal up the screw holes. I got some Git-Rot thin epoxy to put down the holes, but it seems to just mainly vanish into the deck someplace. Does anyone know if the fiberglass part of the hand rail has anything inside of it or is it hollow? I assumed it had a wood core I could seal up with epoxy, but it looks like I am either wrong or the wood dissolved at some point in the last 4 decades. There is no chance of me ripping the headliner apart to access the underside of the deck. For the near term I sealed the holes up with Marine Tex to keep water out while I varnish the teak, but I am not sure how to put the rail back on. I could just drive the screws through th e epoxy, but I don't think that is ideal, seeing how it is only a little bit in there plugging the hole. My idea right now is to drill bigger holes and drive something like a hardwood dowel in there along with epoxy to give the screws something to bite that won't have a way to leak. Another question - is there a source for those rails? I have found sometimes a new piece saves many hours of sanding and cleaning if it matches the old one. I am talking the flat wood forward. The looped handles aft are another project. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
Joe, I haven't removed Touche's cap rails so I don't know if the mounting pad is hollow or not. It may well be hollow. I would think about injecting spray foam into each hole. That will fill the hollow. Then using a bent nail in a drill, hollow out the foam 1/2 to 3/4 inch around each hole. That will create a nice void with a bottom into which you can inject some thickened epoxy. Once set, the epoxy should form a nice plug into which you can screw the fastener. My buddy up the bayou (Hull #61) replaced his cap rails years ago. His new ones are a bit more square than the originals. Looks like he simply routed the corners on a length of 1 x 2 teak. I've never liked finishing brightwork off the boat when it needs to be re-attached and plugged. The area around the plug never seems to match once you sand the plug down and finish it. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I decided to attack some long deferred maintenance and removed the teak grab rail that is on the forward part of the cabin top, port side. It looks like water has been getting into the screw holes and my wife says 41 years of natural look teak is enough. So I figured I could take the teak off, sand and Cetol it off the boat, and seal up the screw holes. I got some Git-Rot thin epoxy to put down the holes, but it seems to just mainly vanish into the deck someplace. Does anyone know if the fiberglass part of the hand rail has anything inside of it or is it hollow? I assumed it had a wood core I could seal up with epoxy, but it looks like I am either wrong or the wood dissolved at some point in the last 4 decades. There is no chance of me ripping the headliner apart to access the underside of the deck. For the near term I sealed the holes up with Marine Tex to keep water out while I varnish the teak, but I am not sure how to put the rail back on. I could just drive the screws through the epoxy, but I don't think that is ideal, seeing how it is only a little bit in there plugging the hole. My idea right now is to drill bigger holes and drive something like a hardwood dowel in there along with epoxy to give the screws something to bite that won't have a way to leak. Another question - is there a source for those rails? I have found sometimes a new piece saves many hours of sanding and cleaning if it matches the old one. I am talking the flat wood forward. The looped handles aft are another project. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
There is a great website that shows how to fix a lot of fiberglass problems. This guy is great source for the do it yourself person. www.Boatworkstoday.com. check it out. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 13, 2014, at 12:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Joe, I haven't removed Touche's cap rails so I don't know if the mounting pad is hollow or not. It may well be hollow. I would think about injecting spray foam into each hole. That will fill the hollow. Then using a bent nail in a drill, hollow out the foam 1/2 to 3/4 inch around each hole. That will create a nice void with a bottom into which you can inject some thickened epoxy. Once set, the epoxy should form a nice plug into which you can screw the fastener. My buddy up the bayou (Hull #61) replaced his cap rails years ago. His new ones are a bit more square than the originals. Looks like he simply routed the corners on a length of 1 x 2 teak. I've never liked finishing brightwork off the boat when it needs to be re-attached and plugged. The area around the plug never seems to match once you sand the plug down and finish it. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I decided to attack some long deferred maintenance and removed the teak grab rail that is on the forward part of the cabin top, port side. It looks like water has been getting into the screw holes and my wife says 41 years of natural look teak is enough. So I figured I could take the teak off, sand and Cetol it off the boat, and seal up the screw holes. I got some Git-Rot thin epoxy to put down the holes, but it seems to just mainly vanish into the deck someplace. Does anyone know if the fiberglass part of the hand rail has anything inside of it or is it hollow? I assumed it had a wood core I could seal up with epoxy, but it looks like I am either wrong or the wood dissolved at some point in the last 4 decades. There is no chance of me ripping the headliner apart to access the underside of the deck. For the near term I sealed the holes up with Marine Tex to keep water out while I varnish the teak, but I am not sure how to put the rail back on. I could just drive the screws through the epoxy, but I don't think that is ideal, seeing how it is only a little bit in there plugging the hole. My idea right now is to drill bigger holes and drive something like a hardwood dowel in there along with epoxy to give the screws something to bite that won't have a way to leak. Another question - is there a source for those rails? I have found sometimes a new piece saves many hours of sanding and cleaning if it matches the old one. I am talking the flat wood forward. The looped handles aft are another project. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
That’s Andy Miller, from up near Bayfield, WI where I keep my boat. He does pretty nice work, both in fiberglass and wood. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Nov 13, 2014, at 12:59 PM, Dan Mccorison via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: There is a great website that shows how to fix a lot of fiberglass problems. This guy is great source for the do it yourself person. www.Boatworkstoday.com. check it out. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
The foam idea is great. Never thought of the plug issue – maybe sand off the boat and finish when back on. As for the looped handrails aft – anyone know how they come off?? Thanks Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan Mccorison via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 1:59 PM To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I There is a great website that shows how to fix a lot of fiberglass problems. This guy is great source for the do it yourself person. www.Boatworkstoday.comhttp://www.Boatworkstoday.com. check it out. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 13, 2014, at 12:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Joe, I haven't removed Touche's cap rails so I don't know if the mounting pad is hollow or not. It may well be hollow. I would think about injecting spray foam into each hole. That will fill the hollow. Then using a bent nail in a drill, hollow out the foam 1/2 to 3/4 inch around each hole. That will create a nice void with a bottom into which you can inject some thickened epoxy. Once set, the epoxy should form a nice plug into which you can screw the fastener. My buddy up the bayou (Hull #61) replaced his cap rails years ago. His new ones are a bit more square than the originals. Looks like he simply routed the corners on a length of 1 x 2 teak. I've never liked finishing brightwork off the boat when it needs to be re-attached and plugged. The area around the plug never seems to match once you sand the plug down and finish it. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I decided to attack some long deferred maintenance and removed the teak grab rail that is on the forward part of the cabin top, port side. It looks like water has been getting into the screw holes and my wife says 41 years of natural look teak is enough. So I figured I could take the teak off, sand and Cetol it off the boat, and seal up the screw holes. I got some Git-Rot thin epoxy to put down the holes, but it seems to just mainly vanish into the deck someplace. Does anyone know if the fiberglass part of the hand rail has anything inside of it or is it hollow? I assumed it had a wood core I could seal up with epoxy, but it looks like I am either wrong or the wood dissolved at some point in the last 4 decades. There is no chance of me ripping the headliner apart to access the underside of the deck. For the near term I sealed the holes up with Marine Tex to keep water out while I varnish the teak, but I am not sure how to put the rail back on. I could just drive the screws through the epoxy, but I don't think that is ideal, seeing how it is only a little bit in there plugging the hole. My idea right now is to drill bigger holes and drive something like a hardwood dowel in there along with epoxy to give the screws something to bite that won't have a way to leak. Another question - is there a source for those rails? I have found sometimes a new piece saves many hours of sanding and cleaning if it matches the old one. I am talking the flat wood forward. The looped handles aft are another project. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
The originals were screwed in with wood screws. There should be access plugs in the liner, at least there was on Freya IV. Of course there is a problem if the originals are toothpicks. I think CC had them custom made for the 35 mk I. Current store bought do not line up with the original holes. I went with putting in additional holes into the liner (with additional access plugs). Glen Eddie Tel: 416-777-5357 Fax: 1-888-812-2557 Torkin Manes LLP Barristers Solicitors This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank you. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List Sent: November-13-14 2:08 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I The foam idea is great. Never thought of the plug issue – maybe sand off the boat and finish when back on. As for the looped handrails aft – anyone know how they come off?? Thanks Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan Mccorison via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 1:59 PM To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I There is a great website that shows how to fix a lot of fiberglass problems. This guy is great source for the do it yourself person. www.Boatworkstoday.comhttp://www.Boatworkstoday.com. check it out. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 13, 2014, at 12:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Joe, I haven't removed Touche's cap rails so I don't know if the mounting pad is hollow or not. It may well be hollow. I would think about injecting spray foam into each hole. That will fill the hollow. Then using a bent nail in a drill, hollow out the foam 1/2 to 3/4 inch around each hole. That will create a nice void with a bottom into which you can inject some thickened epoxy. Once set, the epoxy should form a nice plug into which you can screw the fastener. My buddy up the bayou (Hull #61) replaced his cap rails years ago. His new ones are a bit more square than the originals. Looks like he simply routed the corners on a length of 1 x 2 teak. I've never liked finishing brightwork off the boat when it needs to be re-attached and plugged. The area around the plug never seems to match once you sand the plug down and finish it. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I decided to attack some long deferred maintenance and removed the teak grab rail that is on the forward part of the cabin top, port side. It looks like water has been getting into the screw holes and my wife says 41 years of natural look teak is enough. So I figured I could take the teak off, sand and Cetol it off the boat, and seal up the screw holes. I got some Git-Rot thin epoxy to put down the holes, but it seems to just mainly vanish into the deck someplace. Does anyone know if the fiberglass part of the hand rail has anything inside of it or is it hollow? I assumed it had a wood core I could seal up with epoxy, but it looks like I am either wrong or the wood dissolved at some point in the last 4 decades. There is no chance of me ripping the headliner apart to access the underside of the deck. For the near term I sealed the holes up with Marine Tex to keep water out while I varnish the teak, but I am not sure how to put the rail back on. I could just drive the screws through the epoxy, but I don't think that is ideal, seeing how it is only a little bit in there plugging the hole. My idea right now is to drill bigger holes and drive something like a hardwood dowel in there along with epoxy to give the screws something to bite that won't have a way to leak. Another question - is there a source for those rails? I have found sometimes a new piece saves many hours of sanding and cleaning if it matches the old one. I am talking the flat wood forward. The looped handles aft are another project. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:
Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
I don't know about your boat, but on mine, the original handrails had machine screws embedded in them under plugs. They were snugged down by nuts that were accessible through a series of holes in the headliner that were normally covered by long trim panels. When I replaced the handrails, I also changed to using lag bolts from below, to eliminate the need for plugs in the rails. I also discovered that the original installation had been done by eyeball, and the holes were not precisely spaced. The lag bolts from below also solved that issue. Otherwise I might have had to fill and re-drill quite a few holes. Bill Bina On 11/13/2014 2:08 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote: The foam idea is great. Never thought of the plug issue -- maybe sand off the boat and finish when back on. As for the looped handrails aft -- anyone know how they come off?? Thanks */Joe Della Barba/* Coquina *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dan Mccorison via CnC-List *Sent:* Thursday, November 13, 2014 1:59 PM *To:* Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I There is a great website that shows how to fix a lot of fiberglass problems. This guy is great source for the do it yourself person. www.Boatworkstoday.com http://www.Boatworkstoday.com. check it out. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 13, 2014, at 12:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Joe, I haven't removed Touche's cap rails so I don't know if the mounting pad is hollow or not. It may well be hollow. I would think about injecting spray foam into each hole. That will fill the hollow. Then using a bent nail in a drill, hollow out the foam 1/2 to 3/4 inch around each hole. That will create a nice void with a bottom into which you can inject some thickened epoxy. Once set, the epoxy should form a nice plug into which you can screw the fastener. My buddy up the bayou (Hull #61) replaced his cap rails years ago. His new ones are a bit more square than the originals. Looks like he simply routed the corners on a length of 1 x 2 teak. I've never liked finishing brightwork off the boat when it needs to be re-attached and plugged. The area around the plug never seems to match once you sand the plug down and finish it. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I decided to attack some long deferred maintenance and removed the teak grab rail that is on the forward part of the cabin top, port side. It looks like water has been getting into the screw holes and my wife says 41 years of natural look teak is enough. So I figured I could take the teak off, sand and Cetol it off the boat, and seal up the screw holes. I got some Git-Rot thin epoxy to put down the holes, but it seems to just mainly vanish into the deck someplace. Does anyone know if the fiberglass part of the hand rail has anything inside of it or is it hollow? I assumed it had a wood core I could seal up with epoxy, but it looks like I am either wrong or the wood dissolved at some point in the last 4 decades. There is no chance of me ripping the headliner apart to access the underside of the deck. For the near term I sealed the holes up with Marine Tex to keep water out while I varnish the teak, but I am not sure how to put the rail back on. I could just drive the screws through the epoxy, but I don't think that is ideal, seeing how it is only a little bit in there plugging the hole. My idea right now is to drill bigger holes and drive something like a hardwood dowel in there along with epoxy to give the screws something to bite that won't have a way to leak. Another question - is there a source for those rails? I have found sometimes a new piece saves many hours of sanding and cleaning if it matches the old one. I am talking the flat wood forward. The looped handles aft are another project. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:
Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
I found a place in Florida that has replacement rails with the correct 12 on center spacing. The generic ones at West Marine, etc, are not the correct spacing. http://www.teakmarinewoodwork.com/hand_rails.htm If you plan to varnish, make sure you specify NO FINISH, or they will automatically apply an oil finish. Bill Bina On 11/13/2014 2:14 PM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List wrote: The originals were screwed in with wood screws. There should be access plugs in the liner, at least there was on Freya IV. Of course there is a problem if the originals are toothpicks. I think CC had them custom made for the 35 mk I. Current store bought do not line up with the original holes. I went with putting in additional holes into the liner (with additional access plugs). *Glen Eddie*** Tel: 416-777-5357 Fax: 1-888-812-2557 *Torkin Manes LLP* Barristers Solicitors This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank you. *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List *Sent:* November-13-14 2:08 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I The foam idea is great. Never thought of the plug issue -- maybe sand off the boat and finish when back on. As for the looped handrails aft -- anyone know how they come off?? Thanks */Joe Della Barba/* Coquina *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dan Mccorison via CnC-List *Sent:* Thursday, November 13, 2014 1:59 PM *To:* Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I There is a great website that shows how to fix a lot of fiberglass problems. This guy is great source for the do it yourself person. www.Boatworkstoday.com http://www.Boatworkstoday.com. check it out. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 13, 2014, at 12:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Joe, I haven't removed Touche's cap rails so I don't know if the mounting pad is hollow or not. It may well be hollow. I would think about injecting spray foam into each hole. That will fill the hollow. Then using a bent nail in a drill, hollow out the foam 1/2 to 3/4 inch around each hole. That will create a nice void with a bottom into which you can inject some thickened epoxy. Once set, the epoxy should form a nice plug into which you can screw the fastener. My buddy up the bayou (Hull #61) replaced his cap rails years ago. His new ones are a bit more square than the originals. Looks like he simply routed the corners on a length of 1 x 2 teak. I've never liked finishing brightwork off the boat when it needs to be re-attached and plugged. The area around the plug never seems to match once you sand the plug down and finish it. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I decided to attack some long deferred maintenance and removed the teak grab rail that is on the forward part of the cabin top, port side. It looks like water has been getting into the screw holes and my wife says 41 years of natural look teak is enough. So I figured I could take the teak off, sand and Cetol it off the boat, and seal up the screw holes. I got some Git-Rot thin epoxy to put down the holes, but it seems to just mainly vanish into the deck someplace. Does anyone know if the fiberglass part of the hand rail has anything inside of it or is it hollow? I assumed it had a wood core I could seal up with epoxy, but it looks like I am either wrong or the wood dissolved at some point in the last 4 decades. There is no chance of me ripping the headliner apart to access the underside of the deck. For the near term I sealed the holes up with Marine Tex to keep water out while I varnish the teak, but I am not sure how to put the rail back on. I could just drive the screws through the epoxy, but I don't think that is ideal, seeing how it is only a little bit in there plugging the hole. My idea right now is to drill bigger holes and drive something like a hardwood dowel in there along with epoxy to give the screws something to bite that won't have a way to leak. Another question - is there a source for those rails? I have found sometimes a new piece saves many hours of sanding and cleaning if it matches the old one. I am talking the flat wood
Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
Mine were screwed in from below . I am trying to remember, I think 2 smaller wood screws went through the head liner into the rail, and a larger wood screw in between them went through the overhead rail . So, the lower handholds inside the cabin are held in place with one large screw, embedded in the exterior rail. When I replaced them, I put brass inserts into the outside rails and used machine screws from below so I didn’t have to worry about stripping out the wood, and make it easier to remove. I put a mini countersink into the deck rails so the sealant had somewhere to go. Someone here recommended little O rings, which sounds like a good idea for easy removal. Bill Coleman CC 39 (also ’73) From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 2:08 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I The foam idea is great. Never thought of the plug issue – maybe sand off the boat and finish when back on. As for the looped handrails aft – anyone know how they come off?? Thanks Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan Mccorison via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 1:59 PM To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I There is a great website that shows how to fix a lot of fiberglass problems. This guy is great source for the do it yourself person. www.Boatworkstoday.com. check it out. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 13, 2014, at 12:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Joe, I haven't removed Touche's cap rails so I don't know if the mounting pad is hollow or not. It may well be hollow. I would think about injecting spray foam into each hole. That will fill the hollow. Then using a bent nail in a drill, hollow out the foam 1/2 to 3/4 inch around each hole. That will create a nice void with a bottom into which you can inject some thickened epoxy. Once set, the epoxy should form a nice plug into which you can screw the fastener. My buddy up the bayou (Hull #61) replaced his cap rails years ago. His new ones are a bit more square than the originals. Looks like he simply routed the corners on a length of 1 x 2 teak. I've never liked finishing brightwork off the boat when it needs to be re-attached and plugged. The area around the plug never seems to match once you sand the plug down and finish it. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I decided to attack some long deferred maintenance and removed the teak grab rail that is on the forward part of the cabin top, port side. It looks like water has been getting into the screw holes and my wife says 41 years of natural look teak is enough. So I figured I could take the teak off, sand and Cetol it off the boat, and seal up the screw holes. I got some Git-Rot thin epoxy to put down the holes, but it seems to just mainly vanish into the deck someplace. Does anyone know if the fiberglass part of the hand rail has anything inside of it or is it hollow? I assumed it had a wood core I could seal up with epoxy, but it looks like I am either wrong or the wood dissolved at some point in the last 4 decades. There is no chance of me ripping the headliner apart to access the underside of the deck. For the near term I sealed the holes up with Marine Tex to keep water out while I varnish the teak, but I am not sure how to put the rail back on. I could just drive the screws through the epoxy, but I don't think that is ideal, seeing how it is only a little bit in there plugging the hole. My idea right now is to drill bigger holes and drive something like a hardwood dowel in there along with epoxy to give the screws something to bite that won't have a way to leak. Another question - is there a source for those rails? I have found sometimes a new piece saves many hours of sanding and cleaning if it matches the old one. I am talking the flat wood forward. The looped handles aft are another project. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go
Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
Touche's aft handrails are screwed from underneath with flat head screws. The screws have finish washers for support against the headliner. I've removed and re-bedded them a couple times. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 1:08 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: The foam idea is great. Never thought of the plug issue – maybe sand off the boat and finish when back on. As for the looped handrails aft – anyone know how they come off?? Thanks *Joe Della Barba* Coquina *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dan Mccorison via CnC-List *Sent:* Thursday, November 13, 2014 1:59 PM *To:* Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I There is a great website that shows how to fix a lot of fiberglass problems. This guy is great source for the do it yourself person. www.Boatworkstoday.com. check it out. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 13, 2014, at 12:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Joe, I haven't removed Touche's cap rails so I don't know if the mounting pad is hollow or not. It may well be hollow. I would think about injecting spray foam into each hole. That will fill the hollow. Then using a bent nail in a drill, hollow out the foam 1/2 to 3/4 inch around each hole. That will create a nice void with a bottom into which you can inject some thickened epoxy. Once set, the epoxy should form a nice plug into which you can screw the fastener. My buddy up the bayou (Hull #61) replaced his cap rails years ago. His new ones are a bit more square than the originals. Looks like he simply routed the corners on a length of 1 x 2 teak. I've never liked finishing brightwork off the boat when it needs to be re-attached and plugged. The area around the plug never seems to match once you sand the plug down and finish it. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Nov 13, 2014 at 12:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I decided to attack some long deferred maintenance and removed the teak grab rail that is on the forward part of the cabin top, port side. It looks like water has been getting into the screw holes and my wife says 41 years of natural look teak is enough. So I figured I could take the teak off, sand and Cetol it off the boat, and seal up the screw holes. I got some Git-Rot thin epoxy to put down the holes, but it seems to just mainly vanish into the deck someplace. Does anyone know if the fiberglass part of the hand rail has anything inside of it or is it hollow? I assumed it had a wood core I could seal up with epoxy, but it looks like I am either wrong or the wood dissolved at some point in the last 4 decades. There is no chance of me ripping the headliner apart to access the underside of the deck. For the near term I sealed the holes up with Marine Tex to keep water out while I varnish the teak, but I am not sure how to put the rail back on. I could just drive the screws through the epoxy, but I don't think that is ideal, seeing how it is only a little bit in there plugging the hole. My idea right now is to drill bigger holes and drive something like a hardwood dowel in there along with epoxy to give the screws something to bite that won't have a way to leak. Another question - is there a source for those rails? I have found sometimes a new piece saves many hours of sanding and cleaning if it matches the old one. I am talking the flat wood forward. The looped handles aft are another project. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
Joe, I know the 30-1 isn't the same boat but Anchovy's grab rails are wood screwed from inside the cabin THROUGH the cabin grab rails. Rick Bushie Anchovy 30-1 Worton Creek, MD ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
I don’t have inside grab rails or a headliner for that matter. Maybe those amenities were sacrificed along with the shower and v- berth on the “custom” ¾ ton special Or maybe my headliner was removed although it seems the inside of the cabin ceiling was painted several times. The layout is so different from the 33-1 that I doubt there is any similarity in those details either. My on deck grab rails screw in from below with oval head stainless woodscrews. They came out with no problem and I refinished them in on my bench in the basement. Re-bedded with life caulk… good as new. Did the same with all my companionway teak trim. Nice that that is all the teak I have on the deck (well, except under the winches). After my last boat this is just a little piece of heaven. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of rick bushie via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 3:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I Joe, I know the 30-1 isn't the same boat but Anchovy's grab rails are wood screwed from inside the cabin THROUGH the cabin grab rails. Rick Bushie Anchovy 30-1 Worton Creek, MD ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
My little 1977 26 footer also has inside and outside teak rails joined to one another with brass screws through the headliner. I’ll have to replace one or both of the outsider rails soon as one of them snapped off in my hand the other day. Steve Staten C’est La Vie, CC26 Grand Lake Langley, OK From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of rick bushie via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 2:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I Joe, I know the 30-1 isn't the same boat but Anchovy's grab rails are wood screwed from inside the cabin THROUGH the cabin grab rails. Rick Bushie Anchovy 30-1 Worton Creek, MD ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Exhaust mixing elbow
I think you've got it. The elbow either rusts through or gets plugged. The rust is hard to avoid but the plugging can be avoided by blowing out the coke. By running the engine as hard ( 80% load) and long as possible, as often as possible. I have no idea when/if mine has ever been replaced by the PO. I remove mine and inspect it periodically (every 1-2 years) and I keep a spare. 4 bolts and some hose clamps, I can change it in 15 min while under way if needed. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Nov 13, 2014 7:24 AM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Our 34 has the original Yanmar 3GM which is working like a charm. How does one tell if the mixing elbow is due for replacement??. Ours still has the original mixing elbow which we removed and inspected about 12 years ago. It was fine. Lots of water comes out the exhaust and engine performance is fine. Engine is used mostly for motoring in and out of the mooring field with periodic runs of an hour or so to get to the starting line. I was thinking of removing the hose and use a mirror and spot light to look inside?? John and Maryann Legacy III 1982 CC 34 Noank, CT --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
Hi Joe, I've had my handrails off for 5 years now. The outer ones were through bolted to a matched pair inside, using 3 long # 8 SS machine screws and nuts. I'd love to replace the outer ones w SS like all the new boats, but haven't found a good supplier. Mine are sanded and olied and ready to go back, but I procrastinate. The original needed two people to tighten; one person outside using a screwdriver and one person below with a nutdriver or needlenose pliers holding the nut. Instead, I'm installing the handrails using the same screws, but epoxying SS tee nuts in the outside rails w teak plugs. Tightening can then be done from below by a single person. http://www.fastenersplus.com/10-24-x-9-32-pronged-stainless-steel-tee-nut-pkg-10.html?utm_source=google_shopping Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 1:20:24 PM Subject: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I I decided to attack some long deferred maintenance and removed the teak grab rail that is on the forward part of the cabin top, port side. It looks like water has been getting into the screw holes and my wife says 41 years of natural look teak is enough. So I figured I could take the teak off, sand and Cetol it off the boat, and seal up the screw holes. I got some Git-Rot thin epoxy to put down the holes, but it seems to just mainly vanish into the deck someplace. Does anyone know if the fiberglass part of the hand rail has anything inside of it or is it hollow? I assumed it had a wood core I could seal up with epoxy, but it looks like I am either wrong or the wood dissolved at some point in the last 4 decades. There is no chance of me ripping the headliner apart to access the underside of the deck. For the near term I sealed the holes up with Marine Tex to keep water out while I varnish the teak, but I am not sure how to put the rail back on. I could just drive the screws through the epoxy, but I don't think that is ideal, seeing how it is only a little bit in there plugging the hole. My idea right now is to drill bigger holes and drive something like a hardwood dowel in there along with epoxy to give the screws something to bite that won't have a way to leak. Another question - is there a source for those rails? I have found sometimes a new piece saves many hours of sanding and cleaning if it matches the old one. I am talking the flat wood forward. The looped handles aft are another project. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
This sounds very much like the Viking 33. Although the handrails fit onto the splash guard and I could not find any handrails to replace them with. So, I went on craigslist and found a guy selling rough cut teak boards and I made my handrails from those using the old ones as a guild for spacing and the fit up against the splash guard. I finished with 8 coats of epiphanies varnish. Please think again about the cetol. Clear varnish looks so much nicer. I just looked at a Sabre 38 where the owner finished all the exterior teak in cetol. My initial reaction to boarding the boat was disappointment... I have to say, I took so much pride in those handrails I built and finished in varnish... The only think I would have dome differently, would have been to coat 2 or 3 times with epoxy and then did the 8 coats of varnish. DannyBoatless in Massachusetts -- Original Message -- From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: 'rick bushie' rickbushie...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2014 16:32:10 -0500 I donrsquo;t have inside grab rails or a headliner for that matter. Maybe those amenities were sacrificed along with the shower and v- berth on the ldquo;customrdquo; ¾ ton special Or maybe my headliner was removed although it seems the inside of the cabin ceiling was painted several times. The layout is so different from the 33-1 that I doubt there is any similarity in those details either. My on deck grab rails screw in from below with oval head stainless woodscrews. They came out with no problem and I refinished them in on my bench in the basement. Re-bedded with life caulkhellip; good as new. Did the same with all my companionway teak trim. Nice that that is all the teak I have on the deck (well, except under the winches). After my last boat this is just a little piece of heaven. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of rick bushie via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 3:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I Joe, I know the 30-1 isn't the same boat but Anchovy's grab rails are wood screwed from inside the cabin THROUGH the cabin grab rails. Rick Bushie Anchovy 30-1 Worton Creek, MD ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Exhaust hose replacement for 33-1
Rick Could we get a few pics of your arrangement. Gary Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I had to get into the area inside the transom of my 38 for several reasons, during the refit in 2009. Among those reasons were replacing the exhaust hose and the discharge hose for my bilge pumps. I agree that it looked like this stuff was put in before the deck was installed. BTW, Rod, the layout on the 38 is basically identical to the 33-1. My solution to access was to buy two large rectangular access panels - 12 x 15 I think - and use these to replace the 6 round screw in ports that were on the aft wall of the cockpit. Not only do I have good access to hose connection, wiring, the bolts holding the boarding ladder, etc.; I have installed a square of trampoline netting from a beach cat in the bottom of the space inside the transom and have storage space for spare dock lines, the floats for my anchor trip line, and some other infrequently used items that were in the cockpit lazarettes. Rick Brass Sent from my iPad On Nov 12, 2014, at 17:51, ahycrace--- via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Guys I Have A 38' MK II with the same problem I want to replace that hose but no way am I going in there. Thinking of going to Brewer yard around here or oldport marine in Newport and hoping I don't have to take out a second mortgage to pay for it. Gary Kolc Liberty David Paine via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: In my 1975 CC 33-1, I was able (many years ago) to get my daughter (when she was 11) to squeeze into that space (twice) once to remove the old exhaust and again to put a new one back on. We did this by removing the engine control panel and both screw-on access ports to reduce claustrophobia. I do recall saying righty tighty repeatedly as she couldn't initially get the hose clamp to tighten. In the worst case, I think you can remove the steering quadrant and then even I could squeeze back there (though I've never tried it). Good luck! David On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 2:19 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I just found something to like about my ¾ ton special. I have a deck hatch on the gunwale aft of the cockpit that is big enough to let me get right down into that space behind the engine. I can get to everything in there without performing any circus tricks or cutting anything. I am not familiar enough with the layout of the 33-1 to offer much assistance except this: The reason your exhaust hose loops up before attaching at the tail pipe is to create a siphon block. You should plan the same for your new hose. Best of luck! Burt 1974 CC 33 ¾ ton special Portsmouth, RI (still searching for a good name) *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rod Randow via CnC-List *Sent:* Wednesday, November 12, 2014 1:53 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Stus-List Exhaust hose replacement for 33-1 With all the talk about the 3/4 tons and the 33-1, how do you replace the exhaust hose on the 33-1? Have any 33-1 owners had the exhaust hose replaced? I would like to replace the exhaust hose, muffler to transom, on my 33-1. The issue is removing the hose from the “tailpipe” on the reverse transom. There are two round inspection ports high up on the aft cockpit wall but the distance from each to the hose clamps is probably four feet. Without cutting new lower ports, the approach from the cockpit does not seem to be a option. Cutting a large opening(s) near the cockpit floor is something I would greatly like to avoid. Approaching the hose clamps from the starboard cockpit locker (open space from saloon bulkhead to transom except for enclosed port quarter berth) I can barely reach the rudder quadrant and the clamps are probably another 3-4 feet further aft. Maybe removing the gas tank and rudder quadrant, because the center section is deeper in this IOR narrow and pointy transom, a very skinny person with long arms might be able to reach the clamps. See diagram below. Have any owners with a similar configuration had the exhaust hose replaced? The exhaust hose actually makes a loop high up into this transom section before exiting at the fitting. Any suggestions, tips, tricks on how to remove the hose clamps and hose from the fitting are welcome. Use Courier font for drawing (not to scale): ___ / | /() / | / | ~ ~ ~~ / |___||_ / || =/= || /|| \__ ||
Stus-List Hi, Just bought a 1985 CC 41
Recently bought a 41 with full knowledge that there were some issues, mainly with the rig. Have replaced all the wire/rope halyards with rope, in the process of replacing the running backs and checkstays with amsteel. Have replaced the mainsheet system with a 6/1 cleated at the traveller rather than the secondaries. Took the sails off today for winter and got a good look at things. Putting Delrin washers on the vang and gooseneck (Idea I got here). Now noticed outhaul and second reef lines cross on the way up to the boom and again inside the boom. Cannot figure out how to re do them without taking the boom apart? Any ideas on how to re-string lines inside the boom without tangling them or dismantling the boom ends? Rex Jennifer Delay www. Ghostlake.com http://www.ghostlake.com/ www.ghostlakesailing.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hi, Just bought a 1985 CC 41
Hi Rex, welcome to the club. Assuming the end of your boom is open, the easiest way to unravel the mess inside the boom is to put messenger lines on both control lines and pull them to the end of the boom, where you should be able to fish them out and fix the problem. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 13 November 2014 16:39, Rex Jennifer Delay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Recently bought a 41 with full knowledge that there were some issues, mainly with the rig. Have replaced all the wire/rope halyards with rope, in the process of replacing the running backs and checkstays with amsteel. Have replaced the mainsheet system with a 6/1 cleated at the traveller rather than the secondaries. Took the sails off today for winter and got a good look at things. Putting Delrin washers on the vang and gooseneck (Idea I got here). Now noticed outhaul and second reef lines cross on the way up to the boom and again inside the boom. Cannot figure out how to re do them without taking the boom apart? Any ideas on how to re-string lines inside the boom without tangling them or dismantling the boom ends? Rex Jennifer Delay www. Ghostlake.com http://www.ghostlake.com/ www.ghostlakesailing.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hi, Just bought a 1985 CC 41
A metal electrician's fish and a strong flashlight would help here. The boom is crowded inside. Two reeflines and the outhaul? My outhaul has a block and tackle purchase inside the boom, so I would start with the reef lines. What I would do: Untie only one reefline at a time from the outboard end of the boom, make the others tight so they lift off the bottom of the inside of the boom, then pull the untied line from the gooseneck end of the boom all the way out. Push the fish in through the outboard end of the boom and keep it on the bottom free of other lines. Tape the free end of line to the end of the fish and pull back through to the boom end. Reeve it properly through the sheave and figure eight knot it and pull tight from the other end. Do the other reefline, same method, and your tangle may be solved. Hopefully the outhaul will not be tangled. Good luck. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 7:39:28 PM Subject: Stus-List Hi, Just bought a 1985 CC 41 Recently bought a 41 with full knowledge that there were some issues, mainly with the rig. Have replaced all the wire/rope halyards with rope, in the process of replacing the running backs and checkstays with amsteel. Have replaced the mainsheet system with a 6/1 cleated at the traveller rather than the secondaries. Took the sails off today for winter and got a good look at things. Putting Delrin washers on the vang and gooseneck (Idea I got here). Now noticed outhaul and second reef lines cross on the way up to the boom and again inside the boom. Cannot figure out how to re do them without taking the boom apart? Any ideas on how to re-string lines inside the boom without tangling them or dismantling the boom ends? Rex Jennifer Delay www. Ghostlake.com www.ghostlakesailing.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
My local machine shop said he could make me a set of stainless handrails for my 38 for about $250, using the teak rails as a pattern to get the curvature and hole spacing right. It’s apparently a pretty straightforward process. I said to myself “Do I really want my classic CC to look like a Catalina?”, and put the teak rails back on. Now my Admiral is after me to refinish the teak again. Just goes to show you that it is always something. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 5:54 PM To: Joe Della Barba; CNC boat owners, cnc-list Subject: Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I I'd love to replace the outer ones w SS like all the new boats, but haven't found a good supplier. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I
my little a rosanna rodanna... -- Original Message -- From: Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: 'Chuck S' cscheaf...@comcast.net, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2014 20:59:58 -0500 My local machine shop said he could make me a set of stainless handrails for my 38 for about $250, using the teak rails as a pattern to get the curvature and hole spacing right. Itrsquo;s apparently a pretty straightforward process. I said to myself ldquo;Do I really want my classic CC to look like a Catalina?rdquo;, and put the teak rails back on. Now my Admiral is after me to refinish the teak again. Just goes to show you that it is always something. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 5:54 PM To: Joe Della Barba; CNC boat owners, cnc-list Subject: Re: Stus-List teak grab rail help 35 MK I I'd love to replace the outer ones w SS like all the new boats, but haven't found a good supplier. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List CC 29 for sale in Portsmouth, VA
Is anyone on the list familiar with a 1983 CC 29, called Arias, that is in the Portsmouth/Norfolk/Hampton area? I have a friend who is looking for a boat, as you may recall, and I've pretty much sold her on buying a CC between 29 and 35 feet. Arias is listed on Craigslist right now, and my friend is taken with what she can see in the photos. I've been asked to find out more about the boat and arrange a trip to look at her. I figured someone in the CC fraternity might be able to give me a little bit of history about the boat. http://norfolk.craigslist.org/boa/4756271361.html http://norfolk.craigslist.org/boa/4756271361.html Thanks for the help. Rick Brass Imzadi CC 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hi, Just bought a 1985 CC 41
Use Marlow rope here slippery. -Original Message- From: Rex Jennifer Delay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: 2014-11-13 7:39 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Hi, Just bought a 1985 CC 41 Recently bought a 41 with full knowledge that there were some issues, mainly with the rig. Have replaced all the wire/rope halyards with rope, in the process of replacing the running backs and checkstays with amsteel. Have replaced the mainsheet system with a 6/1 cleated at the traveller rather than the secondaries. Took the sails off today for winter and got a good look at things. Putting Delrin washers on the vang and gooseneck (Idea I got here). Now noticed outhaul and second reef lines cross on the way up to the boom and again inside the boom. Cannot figure out how to re do them without taking the boom apart? Any ideas on how to re-string lines inside the boom without tangling them or dismantling the boom ends? Rex Jennifer Delay www. Ghostlake.com www.ghostlakesailing.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hi, Just bought a 1985 CC 41
For things like that a fibreglass fishing rods work even better. I think that Home Depot has those. Like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-12-ft-Splinter-Guard-Fish-Rod-Set-56312/204178241 Btw. they are $35 in the US and $61 in Canada. Marek (in Ottawa) From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 8:52 PM To: Rex Jennifer Delay; CNC boat owners, cnc-list Subject: Re: Stus-List Hi, Just bought a 1985 CC 41 A metal electrician's fish and a strong flashlight would help here. The boom is crowded inside. Two reeflines and the outhaul? My outhaul has a block and tackle purchase inside the boom, so I would start with the reef lines. What I would do: Untie only one reefline at a time from the outboard end of the boom, make the others tight so they lift off the bottom of the inside of the boom, then pull the untied line from the gooseneck end of the boom all the way out. Push the fish in through the outboard end of the boom and keep it on the bottom free of other lines. Tape the free end of line to the end of the fish and pull back through to the boom end. Reeve it properly through the sheave and figure eight knot it and pull tight from the other end. Do the other reefline, same method, and your tangle may be solved. Hopefully the outhaul will not be tangled. Good luck. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md _ From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2014 7:39:28 PM Subject: Stus-List Hi, Just bought a 1985 CC 41 Recently bought a 41 with full knowledge that there were some issues, mainly with the rig. Have replaced all the wire/rope halyards with rope, in the process of replacing the running backs and checkstays with amsteel. Have replaced the mainsheet system with a 6/1 cleated at the traveller rather than the secondaries. Took the sails off today for winter and got a good look at things. Putting Delrin washers on the vang and gooseneck (Idea I got here). Now noticed outhaul and second reef lines cross on the way up to the boom and again inside the boom. Cannot figure out how to re do them without taking the boom apart? Any ideas on how to re-string lines inside the boom without tangling them or dismantling the boom ends? Rex Jennifer Delay www. Ghostlake.com http://www.ghostlake.com/ www.ghostlakesailing.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hi, Just bought a 1985 CC 41
Curious exchange rate...must be the stupidity tax. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 13 November 2014 20:58, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: For things like that a fibreglass fishing rods work even better. I think that Home Depot has those. Like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-12-ft-Splinter-Guard-Fish-Rod-Set-56312/204178241 Btw. they are $35 in the US and $61 in Canada. Marek (in Ottawa) *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Chuck S via CnC-List *Sent:* Thursday, November 13, 2014 8:52 PM *To:* Rex Jennifer Delay; CNC boat owners, cnc-list *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hi, Just bought a 1985 CC 41 A metal electrician's fish and a strong flashlight would help here. The boom is crowded inside. Two reeflines and the outhaul? My outhaul has a block and tackle purchase inside the boom, so I would start with the reef lines. What I would do: Untie only one reefline at a time from the outboard end of the boom, make the others tight so they lift off the bottom of the inside of the boom, then pull the untied line from the gooseneck end of the boom all the way out. Push the fish in through the outboard end of the boom and keep it on the bottom free of other lines. Tape the free end of line to the end of the fish and pull back through to the boom end. Reeve it properly through the sheave and figure eight knot it and pull tight from the other end. Do the other reefline, same method, and your tangle may be solved. Hopefully the outhaul will not be tangled. Good luck. Chuck *Resolute* 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md -- *From: *CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com *To: *CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent: *Thursday, November 13, 2014 7:39:28 PM *Subject: *Stus-List Hi, Just bought a 1985 CC 41 Recently bought a 41 with full knowledge that there were some issues, mainly with the rig. Have replaced all the wire/rope halyards with rope, in the process of replacing the running backs and checkstays with amsteel. Have replaced the mainsheet system with a 6/1 cleated at the traveller rather than the secondaries. Took the sails off today for winter and got a good look at things. Putting Delrin washers on the vang and gooseneck (Idea I got here). Now noticed outhaul and second reef lines cross on the way up to the boom and again inside the boom. Cannot figure out how to re do them without taking the boom apart? Any ideas on how to re-string lines inside the boom without tangling them or dismantling the boom ends? Rex Jennifer Delay www. Ghostlake.com http://www.ghostlake.com/ www.ghostlakesailing.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
