Re: Stus-List Real world solar panel experience? - Great Lakes area

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Dave, I live aboard full time in Puget Sound,  and often will shut off my 
battery charger for a week at a time. I have 2 140 watt rigid panels mounted 
flat on my dinghy davits,  with 2 Gensun in MPPT controllers in parallel. This 
is in conjunction with the 6 group 27 AGM house batteries. With this system i 
run everything on my boat, and usually be fully charged by 2-3pm. I have seen a 
max of 9 amps charge. If my panels would pivot I could get even more power out 
of them. Doug Mountjoysv Rebecca Leah C Landfall 39Port Orchard yacht club
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Re: Stus-List Real world solar panel experience? - Great Lakes area

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

No YouTube... I don't think.  The 2 controllers just allow for more
reliability.  In order to handle 200w I would need a larger single
controller but a single failure would cause a complete loss of my solar
charging system.  2 smaller controllers allow me to us high quality Genesun
boost controllers instead of a larger less efficient one.  Think of my
system as 2 completely independent 6 amp solar charging systems attached in
parallel to the same battery which results in a total of 12 amps.

Josh

On Wed, Sep 9, 2020, 17:05 John Conklin via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Josh,
> Like you my cruising is in and out of the channel, however with a bit more
> time to go, and some amazing full days soloing Halcyon  I am considering
> few week long trips to and fro! And ... adding  a few 100 watt flexible
> panels
> Did you do by chance do a youtube vid on that install process?  Little
> confused by the 2 controllers? Well always confused By the boat bits but
> willing to try :) I have come a long way in 2 years.
>  Thanks !!
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>
>
> On Sep 9, 2020, at 2:32 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> I have experience but my panels are flexible and total 200w.  I am also
> considerably further south in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay.
>
> I have an Gensun MPPT-boost charge controller for each of the 2 panels.
> They are rated for a 105w panel but I think based on the angle of the solar
> impact and inefficiency of flexible panels I could have gotten away with
> 120w panels.  Experience has shown that I can plan on about 50 Amp-hrs per
> circuit per day.  100 AHr per day into my 450 AHr flooded lead acid battery
> bank.  The system has worked perfectly fine over this summer when I have
> had to abandon the boat away from shore power for more than 3 months.  It
> really is not handling a big load.  Nothing but the bilge pump.  Every time
> I get on board I do check the battery voltage and it is always fully
> charged.
>
> I'm not sure that the solar is sufficient for running comms, navigation
> systems, lights, and fridge... Let alone just a fridge on a long
> term basis.  My cruising habits include motoring into and out of port so
> the 100 amp alternator makes short work of topping up the batteries morning
> and night.
>
> Happy to answer any other questions you may have.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 9, 2020, 13:28 Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> Need to replace my batteries and am contemplating an upgrade to
>> Windstar's off-the-dock power system.   Specifically evauating a battery
>> upgrade and potential top-up-charging.
>>
>> Based on what I've read, a 100w panel would conservatively
>> contribute 400-500w daily (average)  in summer and be enough to help extend
>> my "off the grid" time.   I am on the North shore of Lake Ontario, Toronto
>> area.
>>
>> Does anyone have any real-world data or experience with the actual
>> charging capacity of a sailboat mounted solar panel?Would like to
>> factor this into my decisions.
>>
>> Many thanks!
>>
>> Dave
>> Windstar 33-2
>>
>> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/09/going-off-grid-charging-and-battery.html
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Real world solar panel experience? - Great Lakes area

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Josh,
Like you my cruising is in and out of the channel, however with a bit more time 
to go, and some amazing full days soloing Halcyon  I am considering few week 
long trips to and fro! And ... adding  a few 100 watt flexible panels
Did you do by chance do a youtube vid on that install process?  Little confused 
by the 2 controllers? Well always confused By the boat bits but willing to try 
:) I have come a long way in 2 years.
 Thanks !!

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Sep 9, 2020, at 2:32 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:


I have experience but my panels are flexible and total 200w.  I am also 
considerably further south in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay.

I have an Gensun MPPT-boost charge controller for each of the 2 panels.  They 
are rated for a 105w panel but I think based on the angle of the solar impact 
and inefficiency of flexible panels I could have gotten away with 120w panels.  
Experience has shown that I can plan on about 50 Amp-hrs per circuit per day.  
100 AHr per day into my 450 AHr flooded lead acid battery bank.  The system has 
worked perfectly fine over this summer when I have had to abandon the boat away 
from shore power for more than 3 months.  It really is not handling a big load. 
 Nothing but the bilge pump.  Every time I get on board I do check the battery 
voltage and it is always fully charged.

I'm not sure that the solar is sufficient for running comms, navigation 
systems, lights, and fridge... Let alone just a fridge on a long term basis.  
My cruising habits include motoring into and out of port so the 100 amp 
alternator makes short work of topping up the batteries morning and night.

Happy to answer any other questions you may have.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Wed, Sep 9, 2020, 13:28 Dave S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello all,

Need to replace my batteries and am contemplating an upgrade to Windstar's 
off-the-dock power system.   Specifically evauating a battery upgrade and 
potential top-up-charging.

Based on what I've read, a 100w panel would conservatively contribute 400-500w 
daily (average)  in summer and be enough to help extend my "off the grid" time. 
  I am on the North shore of Lake Ontario, Toronto area.

Does anyone have any real-world data or experience with the actual charging 
capacity of a sailboat mounted solar panel?Would like to factor this into 
my decisions.

Many thanks!

Dave
Windstar 33-2
https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/09/going-off-grid-charging-and-battery.html





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Re: Stus-List Real world solar panel experience? - Great Lakes area

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Solar power literature will indicate that you can expect to get the equivalent 
of 6 hours per day of rated output on a clear summer's day, but that assumes 
that you have a fixed mount with the panels mounted facing south and at an 
angle approximating the latitude. My experience with 2 panels mounted flat on 
top of a bimini on a sailboat is half of that. Also, unless you are using an 
MPP (maximum power point) controller, the current rating of the panels is the 
only specification that matters in sizing. An MPP controller can deliver a few 
more amps by converting the power produced by the panels into power at the 
voltage required for charging the batteries at an improved efficiency as 
compared to a conventional controller which acts as a voltage limiter. MPP 
controllers can be thought of as DC transformers. 

Steve Thomas


 Dave S via CnC-List  wrote: 
Hello all,

Need to replace my batteries and am contemplating an upgrade to Windstar's
off-the-dock power system.   Specifically evauating a battery upgrade and
potential top-up-charging.

Based on what I've read, a 100w panel would conservatively
contribute 400-500w daily (average)  in summer and be enough to help extend
my "off the grid" time.   I am on the North shore of Lake Ontario, Toronto
area.

Does anyone have any real-world data or experience with the actual charging
capacity of a sailboat mounted solar panel?Would like to factor this
into my decisions.

Many thanks!

Dave
Windstar 33-2
https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/09/going-off-grid-charging-and-battery.html


___

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Re: Stus-List Searching the 'Archives'

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Another way to search the email archives is:  site:cnc-list.com where
 is your search string.  For example to search for threads on rod
rigging use: rod rigging site:cnc-list.com.

However, Google search rules apply.  The above search string may yield
threads which contain "rod", "rigging" and "rod rigging".  If you want to
restrict the search to only rod rigging, use: "rod rigging" site:
cnc-list.com.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




On Tue, Sep 8, 2020, 10:20 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Stu- I never heard back from you on my problem searching the archives.
> I tried a few weeks ago and did not find emails that I knew should be there
> because I had them on my computer.  Some trick I am missing?  Dave
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Real world solar panel experience? - Great Lakes area

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Dave, I equipped my last two boats with solar panels. Both had refrigeration 
and 4-6 volt golf cart batteries for the additional amp hours. I switched 99% 
of my lighting to LED and have an autopilot, inverter and chart plotter. I ran 
a 150 watt rigid panel on the first boat and 250 watt rigid panel on the 
current boat. I do not limit my use of power because I don’t have to. I will 
use the engine to charge on the second day of rain and in late September. Other 
than that it works very well. My load share relay usually has a green share 
light by my morning coffee. I didn’t find 150 watts as good as 250 watts but it 
depends on how much power you use. One more thing I should mention, I leave my 
batteries on board and solar panel hooked up all year and my battery bank lasts 
9-10 years. I would recommend at least 200 watts and 250 is plenty for Georgian 
Bay. YMMV. 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs 
89 37+
Midland On. 

Sent from my mobile device. 
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Re: Stus-List Real world solar panel experience? - Great Lakes area

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

I added a GoPower 100 Watt system last summer at the same time I added a new 
Isotherm Ref. System. I found that the most I was getting from the panel was 
about 3.5 to 4 amps according to the GoPower controller. Was still having to 
run the engine a few times a day to keep the beer frosty. 

 

So this summer I added the 100 watt GoPower expansion panel and I am now seeing 
numbers as high as 9 amps. Good system and not too pricey. I run a Sportsman 8d 
for house 1, a Sportsman Group 31 for house 2 and a Sportman Group 24 dedicated 
battery engine. Boat just did a nine-day cruise and all worked well. 

 

Best of luck! 

 

John McCrea

Talisman

36-1

Mystic, CT

From: Dave S  
Sent: Wednesday, September 9, 2020 1:28 PM
To: C Stus List 
Subject: Stus-List Real world solar panel experience? - Great Lakes area

 

Hello all,

 

Need to replace my batteries and am contemplating an upgrade to Windstar's 
off-the-dock power system.   Specifically evauating a battery upgrade and 
potential top-up-charging.

 

Based on what I've read, a 100w panel would conservatively contribute 400-500w 
daily (average)  in summer and be enough to help extend my "off the grid" time. 
  I am on the North shore of Lake Ontario, Toronto area.  

 

Does anyone have any real-world data or experience with the actual charging 
capacity of a sailboat mounted solar panel?Would like to factor this into 
my decisions.

 

Many thanks! 

 

Dave

Windstar 33-2

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/09/going-off-grid-charging-and-battery.html

 

 

 

  

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Re: Stus-List Real world solar panel experience? - Great Lakes area

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

When the kids were younger and I was acting as temporary housing at sailing 
school for 2 weeks and not moving off anchor, one 50 watt panel changed the 
situation from 30-60 minutes of engine per day to 30-60 minutes every other or 
third day ☺
Joe

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2020 2:31 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Real world solar panel experience? - Great 
Lakes area

I have experience but my panels are flexible and total 200w.  I am also 
considerably further south in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay.

I have an Gensun MPPT-boost charge controller for each of the 2 panels.  They 
are rated for a 105w panel but I think based on the angle of the solar impact 
and inefficiency of flexible panels I could have gotten away with 120w panels.  
Experience has shown that I can plan on about 50 Amp-hrs per circuit per day.  
100 AHr per day into my 450 AHr flooded lead acid battery bank.  The system has 
worked perfectly fine over this summer when I have had to abandon the boat away 
from shore power for more than 3 months.  It really is not handling a big load. 
 Nothing but the bilge pump.  Every time I get on board I do check the battery 
voltage and it is always fully charged.

I'm not sure that the solar is sufficient for running comms, navigation 
systems, lights, and fridge... Let alone just a fridge on a long term basis.  
My cruising habits include motoring into and out of port so the 100 amp 
alternator makes short work of topping up the batteries morning and night.

Happy to answer any other questions you may have.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
ne is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Real world solar panel experience? - Great Lakes area

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I have a 50 watt panel and a Morningstar PWM controller. Max charge I have ever 
seen is a bit over 2 amps – 2.3 maybe. If you do not get a MPPT controller you 
will see at most maybe 4.5 amps out of a 100 watt panel. If you have good sun 
*and no shadows on the panel* I would guess you might get say 25-30 AH charge 
per day, or 275-360 watt-hours if you want calculate it that way.
A good MPPT controller can nearly double those numbers. See 
https://www.morningstarcorp.com/solar-charge-controllers
What you have to remember is that panels are rated at 18 volts. A 100 watt 
panel is putting out 5.5 amps max. 5.5 x 18 = 100. A cheap regulator just cuts 
down the voltage to say 14. 14x5.5=77 watts and cut a bit more for losses, 
nothing is 100%. So say maybe 60 watts out of a 100 watt panel MAX.
The MPPT controllers are essentialy DC-DC battery chargers. They will use 
technology similar to an inverter to CHANGE 18 volts to 14, not cut it from 
18-14, with minimal losses.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2020 1:28 PM
To: C Stus List 
Cc: Dave S 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Real world solar panel experience? - Great Lakes 
area

Hello all,

Need to replace my batteries and am contemplating an upgrade to Windstar's 
off-the-dock power system.   Specifically evauating a battery upgrade and 
potential top-up-charging.

Based on what I've read, a 100w panel would conservatively contribute 400-500w 
daily (average)  in summer and be enough to help extend my "off the grid" time. 
  I am on the North shore of Lake Ontario, Toronto area.

Does anyone have any real-world data or experience with the actual charging 
capacity of a sailboat mounted solar panel?Would like to factor this into 
my decisions.

Many thanks!

Dave
Windstar 33-2
https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/09/going-off-grid-charging-and-battery.html




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Real world solar panel experience? - Great Lakes area

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I have experience but my panels are flexible and total 200w.  I am also
considerably further south in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay.

I have an Gensun MPPT-boost charge controller for each of the 2 panels.
They are rated for a 105w panel but I think based on the angle of the solar
impact and inefficiency of flexible panels I could have gotten away with
120w panels.  Experience has shown that I can plan on about 50 Amp-hrs per
circuit per day.  100 AHr per day into my 450 AHr flooded lead acid battery
bank.  The system has worked perfectly fine over this summer when I have
had to abandon the boat away from shore power for more than 3 months.  It
really is not handling a big load.  Nothing but the bilge pump.  Every time
I get on board I do check the battery voltage and it is always fully
charged.

I'm not sure that the solar is sufficient for running comms, navigation
systems, lights, and fridge... Let alone just a fridge on a long
term basis.  My cruising habits include motoring into and out of port so
the 100 amp alternator makes short work of topping up the batteries morning
and night.

Happy to answer any other questions you may have.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Wed, Sep 9, 2020, 13:28 Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Need to replace my batteries and am contemplating an upgrade to Windstar's
> off-the-dock power system.   Specifically evauating a battery upgrade and
> potential top-up-charging.
>
> Based on what I've read, a 100w panel would conservatively
> contribute 400-500w daily (average)  in summer and be enough to help extend
> my "off the grid" time.   I am on the North shore of Lake Ontario, Toronto
> area.
>
> Does anyone have any real-world data or experience with the actual
> charging capacity of a sailboat mounted solar panel?Would like to
> factor this into my decisions.
>
> Many thanks!
>
> Dave
> Windstar 33-2
>
> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/09/going-off-grid-charging-and-battery.html
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Buying a C & C 32

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Just realized that I sent my response directly to David instead of the
list.  As others have also sent messages, here is the scoop on my rigging
project:

Kevin Montague at North East Rigging Systems did my standing rigging refit
this spring.  I think he did good work with high quality components and he
is very knowledgeable.  He also cares about customer success and has
checked back in with me regarding the rig tune and other issues.  However,
he is not great at scheduling and project management (missed ordering parts
in advance) and overbooks himself given that weather always gets in the
way.  This led to it taking longer and delaying launch a few weeks from my
target  completion date (after I had already delayed a month from the
original plan to finish my deck refit).  He had the rig starting in early
February so I was a bit disappointed that it wasn’t ready to be installed
at the end of June and I had to wait a few more weeks (ended up with a July
20th launch this year and was still waiting for the longer threaded rods
for the turnbuckles as the ones Kevin had originally procured were not long
enough to get cotter pins through).  Granted with Covid it was a strange
and difficult year all around.

The main question on the rod inspection seems to be how regularly is the
mast taken down and the fittings moved around (and perhaps if you are in
salt water or not).  If the ends are seized then you can't inspect them and
the rod must be redheaded.  Not super expensive (a few boat bucks) by
itself until you find that you need to replace the through rods in the mast
which are seized aluminum (replaced with stainless).  Then the threaded
parts at the end of the spreader stripped and needed to be replaced and the
new ones didn't fit the spreader tip so that had to be machined ... and so
on.  Ended up with $7.5k in parts and tax and $4.5k in labor for the whole
job, but as I said, that included a new wire forestay, furler, halyards,
and masthead sheaves so it was probably about half of that for the rod
rigging work and associated parts along with stepping the mast.

Good peace of mind but it is a lot of money to put into an old boat and hey
it lasted for 40 years already - so I am still not sure if it is a required
investment.  The problem is getting someone to work on it or even step it
can be hard if the rods are seized in the fittings because of the liability
so once I had the mast taken down I kind of had to do something.  As others
have noted, getting insurance can also be an issue.  I have insurance with
Boat US (Geico) which as has been noted many times on this list is not
great insurance as they only pay current value which rapidly discounts
everything, but on the other hand they aren't picky on the survey
requirements (I don't believe that they have asked me for a hull or rigging
survey in fact).  So for me, I pretty much consider it to be total loss
insurance and liability and I self insure for everything else less than a
total loss.  So far, attempts to get other insurance quotes for the boat
have failed due to the boat's age and issues noted in the 2018 purchase
survey (most of which I have taken care of, but I haven't had another
survey done).

Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34 KCB
Lynn MA

On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 8:14 AM David Risch  wrote:

> Nathanwho did the work?
>
> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Nathan Post
> via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 9, 2020 6:30:11 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> *Cc:* Nathan Post 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Buying a C & C 32
>
> On my C 34 I had a rigger who does rod rigging go through the rig and
> inspect it and re-end all the rods and he replaced two of them.  Rods can
> last a very long time but the ends need to be inspected for cracks and in
> my case most of them were seized into the fittings so inspection of the
> ends wasn’t possible.  Some of the hardware couldn’t be reused and we
> replaced the turnbuckle treaded studs as a precaution (Some had to be
> longer to make up for the shorter rod lengths after reending). Along with a
> new furler and headstay which was damaged by the old furler when the foil
> failed under the swivel this ran $12k USD Including labor. I think the
> forstay, new halyards and furler, and mast head sheaves were about half of
> that and the rest was the rod work.
> Anyway if you have rod rigging it is something to consider instead of
> completely replacing everything.  Not sure if your insurance will be ok
> with that but if you can get a rig inspection cert from the rigger
> afterwards I would think they would be.  Still expensive but likely less
> then a complete new set of standing rigging and I have more confidence that
> my rig is ready for another 40 years (much of it was likely original
> although I don’t know for sure).  Makes for good peace of mind anyway.
>
> Nathan
>
> - -
> Nathan Post
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C 34 KCB
> 

Stus-List Real world solar panel experience? - Great Lakes area

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Hello all,

Need to replace my batteries and am contemplating an upgrade to Windstar's
off-the-dock power system.   Specifically evauating a battery upgrade and
potential top-up-charging.

Based on what I've read, a 100w panel would conservatively
contribute 400-500w daily (average)  in summer and be enough to help extend
my "off the grid" time.   I am on the North shore of Lake Ontario, Toronto
area.

Does anyone have any real-world data or experience with the actual charging
capacity of a sailboat mounted solar panel?Would like to factor this
into my decisions.

Many thanks!

Dave
Windstar 33-2
https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/09/going-off-grid-charging-and-battery.html
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Stus-List Power consumption inventory

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Might be a useful reference for someone else planning winter projects - An
inventory of Windstar's various power-consuming items and the actual power
they consume, plus some other relevant information.

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/09/going-off-grid-charging-and-battery.html

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2020/09/battery-and-charging-options-upgrade.html


Dave
Windstar 33-2
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Re: Stus-List Buying a C & C 32

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I have a 42 year old back stay.   It was reheaded about 14 years ago.   

As for the roller furler,  I recommend securing the drum.   Most drums have a 
provision for running a line from the drum to the toe rail which is more secure 
than relying on the furling line.   

Mike

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On Sep 9, 2020, at 9:31 AM, Matthew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Richard:
>  
> Echoing what others have said, I can’t imagine insurers 
> require rog rigging to be replaced every 10 years – wire, maybe; but not rod. 
>  That said, the heads are the weak link (particularly the older Navtec 
> design).  When I bought my 34, I had a local metal shop inspect the rod and 
> the heads.  They used a dye of some sort, then a microscope or something.  My 
> boat was about 20 years old at the time, and no defects were found.  I ended 
> up replacing the stays because my kids left the roller furler line uncleated 
> (they liked to play with the winches when they were little), and a genny 
> sheet ripped the starboard lower out of the mast during a wind storm.  I 
> decided to replace all the side stays while I was at it.  When I sold the 
> boat (about 10 years ago), the rod backstay was original.
>  
> P.S.  Never leave the boat without checking the roller furler line.
>  
> From: CnC-List  > On Behalf Of Richard Bayle via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2020 7:09 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Richard Bayle mailto:richard.ba...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Buying a C & C 32
>  
> Good evening ladies and gentlemen,  
> I am a brand new member of this forum living in Guadeloupe.  I am unable to 
> complete my profile as the drop down menu for countries doesn't include 
> France or Guadeloupe.  I can understand no Guadeloupe as technically it isn't 
> a country but leaving out France, surely some mistake!
> I have turned up as I am seriously considering a 32 currently in Martinique 
> and I wonder if I could get any tips on what to look out for.
> I have visited the boat and she appears very well sorted, Nice clean hull and 
> new Copper Coat antifoul, last year.
> The boat was seized by French customs looking for drugs and they ripped out 
> anything and everything that might be concealing a hiding place.  The current 
> owner acquired it from them and began to restore her but his life has changed 
> and he has to return to France hence the proposed sale to me.
> I am assuming I have to replace the rigging; it is more than 10 years old, 
> and insurers here insist on renewing the rig every 10 years.  I could insure 
> it just for third party protection but I prefer the hurricane cover.
> Given that this is my third boat and I've been around for a while now, I was 
> looking for anything specific to the C & C which is a new name to me, so any 
> help there would be gratefully received
>  
> Richard
>  
> www.richardbayle.com 
> +590690744907
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Buying a C & C 32

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Richard:

 

Echoing what others have said, I can’t imagine insurers require 
rog rigging to be replaced every 10 years – wire, maybe; but not rod.  That 
said, the heads are the weak link (particularly the older Navtec design).  When 
I bought my 34, I had a local metal shop inspect the rod and the heads.  They 
used a dye of some sort, then a microscope or something.  My boat was about 20 
years old at the time, and no defects were found.  I ended up replacing the 
stays because my kids left the roller furler line uncleated (they liked to play 
with the winches when they were little), and a genny sheet ripped the starboard 
lower out of the mast during a wind storm.  I decided to replace all the side 
stays while I was at it.  When I sold the boat (about 10 years ago), the rod 
backstay was original.

 

P.S.  Never leave the boat without checking the roller furler line.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Richard Bayle via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2020 7:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bayle 
Subject: Stus-List Buying a C & C 32

 

Good evening ladies and gentlemen,  

I am a brand new member of this forum living in Guadeloupe.  I am unable to 
complete my profile as the drop down menu for countries doesn't include France 
or Guadeloupe.  I can understand no Guadeloupe as technically it isn't a 
country but leaving out France, surely some mistake!

I have turned up as I am seriously considering a 32 currently in Martinique and 
I wonder if I could get any tips on what to look out for.

I have visited the boat and she appears very well sorted, Nice clean hull and 
new Copper Coat antifoul, last year.

The boat was seized by French customs looking for drugs and they ripped out 
anything and everything that might be concealing a hiding place.  The current 
owner acquired it from them and began to restore her but his life has changed 
and he has to return to France hence the proposed sale to me.

I am assuming I have to replace the rigging; it is more than 10 years old, and 
insurers here insist on renewing the rig every 10 years.  I could insure it 
just for third party protection but I prefer the hurricane cover.

Given that this is my third boat and I've been around for a while now, I was 
looking for anything specific to the C & C which is a new name to me, so any 
help there would be gratefully received

 

Richard

 

www.richardbayle.com  

+590690744907

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Buying a C & C 32

[David Risch via CnC-List]

Nathanwho did the work?

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Nathan Post via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, September 9, 2020 6:30:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Nathan Post 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Buying a C & C 32

On my C 34 I had a rigger who does rod rigging go through the rig and inspect 
it and re-end all the rods and he replaced two of them.  Rods can last a very 
long time but the ends need to be inspected for cracks and in my case most of 
them were seized into the fittings so inspection of the ends wasn’t possible.  
Some of the hardware couldn’t be reused and we replaced the turnbuckle treaded 
studs as a precaution (Some had to be longer to make up for the shorter rod 
lengths after reending). Along with a new furler and headstay which was damaged 
by the old furler when the foil failed under the swivel this ran $12k USD 
Including labor. I think the forstay, new halyards and furler, and mast head 
sheaves were about half of that and the rest was the rod work.
Anyway if you have rod rigging it is something to consider instead of 
completely replacing everything.  Not sure if your insurance will be ok with 
that but if you can get a rig inspection cert from the rigger afterwards I 
would think they would be.  Still expensive but likely less then a complete new 
set of standing rigging and I have more confidence that my rig is ready for 
another 40 years (much of it was likely original although I don’t know for 
sure).  Makes for good peace of mind anyway.

Nathan

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34 KCB
Lynn, MA USA
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Re: Stus-List Buying a C & C 32

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

On my C 34 I had a rigger who does rod rigging go through the rig and inspect 
it and re-end all the rods and he replaced two of them.  Rods can last a very 
long time but the ends need to be inspected for cracks and in my case most of 
them were seized into the fittings so inspection of the ends wasn’t possible.  
Some of the hardware couldn’t be reused and we replaced the turnbuckle treaded 
studs as a precaution (Some had to be longer to make up for the shorter rod 
lengths after reending). Along with a new furler and headstay which was damaged 
by the old furler when the foil failed under the swivel this ran $12k USD 
Including labor. I think the forstay, new halyards and furler, and mast head 
sheaves were about half of that and the rest was the rod work.
Anyway if you have rod rigging it is something to consider instead of 
completely replacing everything.  Not sure if your insurance will be ok with 
that but if you can get a rig inspection cert from the rigger afterwards I 
would think they would be.  Still expensive but likely less then a complete new 
set of standing rigging and I have more confidence that my rig is ready for 
another 40 years (much of it was likely original although I don’t know for 
sure).  Makes for good peace of mind anyway.

Nathan

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper 
1981 C 34 KCB 
Lynn, MA USA
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Inquiry

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

I would stick with the VC 17 . It is designed to wear away and not build up . 
Most other bottom paints will build up on the bottom and eventually will need 
to be removed. I just burnish the old VC 17 with a scotch brite pad . If you 
put the paint into a mustard bottle and squirt a bit onto a foam roller . You 
can make the paint last a lot longer . 
> 

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