Stus-List Re: MAX Prop pitch discussion

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Martin,

Thanks for your detailed response regarding MaxProp and PYI.   Great advice as 
always.   It's the first time I've heard of changing the prop pitch for 
conditions.  Did that work out for you?  Was it worth the trouble?

I'm still looking for "actual settings" by owners with a C 34/36, two blade 
17" prop with a 2.6:1 reduction.  I'm trying to help a friend (who just bought 
the prop) avoid trial and error.

Chuck





> On 12/27/2020 9:29 PM Martin DeYoung via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> 
> Chuck,
> 
>  
> 
> I have used MAX Props since the mid 80’s including multiple Hawaii 
> crossings. (Full disclosure, I have known Frederic Laffitte one of PYI’s 
> owners since before PYI was a company and have sailed over 20K offshore miles 
> with him.)
> 
>  
> 
> I echo the comments regarding PYI’s recommendations, especially as a best 
> starting point.  Fred Hutchinson has been serving PYI’s MAX Prop customers 
> for a very long time.  I have been at PYI and been able to observe their 
> customer service commitment first hand.  Last time I was there it looked like 
> the next generation was beginning to “learn the ropes” from Frederic and the 
> other owner/managers so us MAX Prop users should have them as a resource for 
> a long time.
> 
>  
> 
> For Calypso’s 3 blade MAX Prop and on other boats I have used several 
> different pitch settings.  For long off shore voyages I have intentionally 
> over pitched the prop (just a little) to reduce engine RPM when motoring in 
> calm (NE Pacific high) conditions.  For our trip on Calypso around Vancouver 
> Island I slightly under pitched the prop to allow better power (higher engine 
> revs) for “punching” into head seas and wind.
> 
>  
> 
> If you do not hear from someone with your same boat and power setup, 
> using the PYI recommendation for your first time underway then looking for 
> the usual signs of over/under pitch may be the best compromise.  When I was 
> experimenting with Calypso’s prop pitch I had a deal with the Travel Lift 
> operator that he would leave the slings down long enough for me to perform a 
> “hot lap” and check the performance.  I got away with this twice before 
> settling on my best 2 options.
> 
>  
> 
> Happy New Year and stay well,
> 
>  
> 
> Martin DeYoung
> 
> Calypso
> 
> 1971 C 43
> 
> Seattle/Port Ludlow
> 
>  
> 
> Hi guys,
> Tables are great, but actual settings are better.
> I hope someone else with a 36 footer and a Yanmar 3GM30F w 2.6:1 
> reduction and a 17" two blade MaxProp will share his actual setting number to 
> help us.
> 
> Thanks to those who responded already.
> Chuck S
> 
>  
> 
> Martin DeYoung
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List replacing anodes

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,
Thanks for the great resource to heat exchanger maintenance.

FWIW, I keep several 1/8" wooden dowels aboard (Walmart or Michaels) to ream 
out the scale buildup in the heat exchanger of my Universal M4-30. It makes a 
huge difference cleaning the tubes out and I do that each fall after I change 
the oil and before I pump the pink stuff throught the engine. The wooden dowels 
come in a length I can break in half and I keep them in a Rubbermaid container 
onboard labeled "Engine", with spare belts, oil filters, fuel filters, oil 
absorbent towels, spare raw water pump impellers, zinc anodes for the heat 
exchanger (I have to use a hack saw and cut off the shelf anodes to fit my heat 
exchanger) and spare zincs for the Maxprop and shaft. I've never replaced the 
gaskets or the O-rings on the end cap bolts in the 16 years I've had the boat. 
But wooden dowels have saved me several times when the engine was overheating.

Now I'm cursed and will have to order those heat exchanger gasket parts.


> On December 3, 2018 at 1:51 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> 
> Yes, broken heat exchanger anodes is a common issue.  Happens on Touche' 
> frequently.  :(
> 
> First, you can simply take a dowel or rod and tap the anode piece into 
> the exchanger.  Depending on how many other anode bits are in the exchanger, 
> you may be fine.  HOWEVER, IF this has been done a bunch of times, there is a 
> potential for one pass of your exchanger to be restricted and you will suffer 
> engine overheating.  
> 
> I went through this last year with my Universal 25XPB.  Fix is 
> straightforward but may be complicated by access to your exchanger.  You'll 
> need to remove the exchanger end caps and remove ALL the anode bits.  Flush 
> the tubes liberally with pressure water.  Chances are the tubes are fairly 
> clean but inspect them to be sure.  Due to access issues, I shined a light in 
> one end while looking with a mirror on the other end.  If clean, reinstall 
> the end caps with NEW gaskets.  You can install the new anode before you put 
> the end caps on just to see what it looks like inside the exchanger.  Just 
> helps with visualization.
> 
> Here's a good article on the issue:
> 
> 
> https://marinehowto.com/westerbeke-universal-marine-heat-exchanger-cleaning/
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, Dec 3, 2018 at 11:18 AM David Knecht via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > #2- I removed the engine heat exchanger anode that I put in a few 
> > years ago.  The cap came off without the zinc itself.  I first interpreted 
> > this as the zinc being completely gone.  However, when I tried to insert a 
> > new one, it was blocked from going in at all.  I am guessing this means the 
> > zinc core broke off and is stuck inside.  If I take the end cap off, can I 
> > get to the piece inside?  Is this a common problem?  
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List Winter battery maintenance.

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Nice article on batteries in winter. Thanks for the clarity.


> On December 2, 2018 at 10:53 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Another decent article on winter self-discharge can be found here: 
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/self_discharge .
> 
>  
> 
> Not on the C Photo Album site, but almost as good.
> 
>  
> 
> Marek
> 
>  
> 
> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
> 
> Ottawa, ON
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2018 07:27
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Ken Heaton 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter battery maintenance.
> 
>  
> 
> Stu has an article linked on the front page of the Photo Album: Surrette 
> Battery Co. Ltd. Bulletin #506 - Winter Storage
> 
>  
> 
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/batteries/batteries.htm 
> https://nam04.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cncphotoalbum.com%2Fdoityourself%2Fbatteries%2Fbatteries.htm=02%7C01%7C%7C0e61a04c178b4ca5006708d658519483%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636793504730256677=AdPIX2%2Fu15cMhEr0CmuWKOa%2Fs%2FHA5Gu4A8q036M8gCo%3D=0
> 
>  
> 
> Batteries stored below 59 F. self discharge very slowly, the colder the 
> storage temperature, the slower.  Start with them fully charged and 
> everything shut off and better yet a cable disconnected.
> 
>  
> 
> Ken H.
> 
>  
> 
> On Sun, 2 Dec 2018 at 06:59, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > If your batteries are good they will hold charge all winter long if 
> > you do as Robert on AZURA explained. Did i suggest you do it that way 
> > Robert?  If they don’t hold charge you can probably look forward to buying 
> > new batteries very soon. Consider it a test on your batteries: works every 
> > time but dont drop by occaisionaly during winter storage to charge them if 
> > you want a reliable test
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > On Sat, Dec 1, 2018 at 5:19 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > 
> > > I would not put a solar panel without a controller, even if 
> > > it puts only 1 A.
> > > 
> > > Why? I murdered two batteries this way. My panel was 15 W, so 
> > > hardly tons of current, but each battery lasted just about a season. I 
> > > thought that spending extra $50 for a controller was a waste of money. I 
> > > blamed the batteries, but I learned since.
> > > 
> > > Marek
> > > 
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From: CnC-List  > > mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com > On Behalf Of Len Mitchell via 
> > > CnC-List
> > > Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2018 12:04
> > > To: CNC List  > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > > Cc: Len Mitchell  > > mailto:xfireca...@gmail.com >
> > > Subject: Stus-List Winter battery maintenance.
> > > 
> > > Not sure why no one has talked about a solar panel to keep 
> > > batteries topped up! Or did I miss something? The price just keeps 
> > > getting lower and they work well. Mine are always up and the boat is 
> > > covered in canvas plus snow. A small inexpensive panel will deliver 2 
> > > amps or less in the daylight and won’t even require a controller at that 
> > > charge rate. If your batteries are being discharged or they aren’t strong 
> > > enough, they can freeze. Check specific gravity and electrolyte level yes!
> > > Len
> > > 
> > > Sent from my iPad
> > > ___
> > > 
> > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your 
> > > contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want 
> > > to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
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> > >  
> > > https://nam04.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7C0e61a04c178b4ca5006708d658519483%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636793504730256677=33VoVME3yIvVrvhtXQIVvNCALbrtz%2FMSOR5f3SadsNc%3D=0
> > > 
> > > ___
> > > 
> > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your 
> > > contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want 
> > > to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> > > 

Re: Stus-List Winter Battery Maintenance

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Had the boat fifteen years. I leave my batteries on the boat connected with 
everything switched off. I go to the boat at least once a month to connect a 
power cord that powers the charger and top them off while I check the cover and 
interior and work on projects. On the hard, I keep a power cord run through the 
speedo and simply plug it into a receptacle which powers the charger and a 
radio I leave turned on. If I hear that music playing while under the boat, I 
know she's charging and not have to even climb on the boat, maybe go to lunch 
or visit friends. I keep the cord coiled at the boat, not at the receptacle, so 
no one does me a favor and powers my boat when I'm not there.

I don't have refrigeration so I never leave the charger plugged in when I leave 
the boat, as I live 2 1/2 hrs away and that is an electrical hazzard I don't 
want to worry about. When I am at the boat, I plug in power and charge the 
batteries and run AC, TV, and lights, and fans. Before I leave, the ice box 
gets emptied and the seacocks closed and shorepower unplugged. The life of the 
batteries proves this method works well enough. My first set of AGM batteries 
bought when I got the boat; one lasted nine years, the other eleven.


> On November 30, 2018 at 10:41 AM robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Ray:
> 
> I have 2 Group 27's deep cyclenow 9 years old, and I leave them on 
> the boat over the winter with everything disconnected.   They get a full 
> charge in the Fall during layup bringing up to 6.2V to 6.4V.also check 
> the levels of the electrolyte (acid) and add distilled water if necessary 
> before charging.
> 
> For a few winters, I have left them this way without a charge until 
> Springin the Spring, they read 12.4V to 12.5V.   Most winters, I will 
> visit the boat and give the batteries a charge with a 6V charger.maybe an 
> hour on each battery.   Never an issue.
> 
> There is a permanent 'smart charger' on the boat but our club will not 
> permit an electrical connection to the boat if it is unattended, good policy 
> for obvious reasons, but being on a trickle charge all winter has not been 
> necessary .
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S
> 
> On 2018-11-30 11:15 a.m., Raymond Macklin via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> > > I have two batteries that I am looking for information on 
> how to Maintain my batteries over the winter.  What charger to purchase and 
> process to follow. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > .
> > Ray
> > LakeHouse
> > Milwaukee, WI
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > 
 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List Close Hauled Indicator

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Jeremy,
The mystery switch may simply be power to the masthead Windex? That shows close 
haul indication if the guide bars are adjusted.


> On November 29, 2018 at 12:24 PM David via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Separate instrument in which it shows a view of 45 degree (in lieu of 360 
> degrees) either side of top  dead center so your reference upwind is expanded 
> and more precise.
> 
> David F. Risch, J. D.
> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC 
> (401) 419-4650 
> 
> 
> -
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jeremy Ralph 
> via CnC-List 
> Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2018 12:10 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jeremy Ralph
> Subject: Stus-List Close Hauled Indicator
>  
> What the heck is a “Close Hauled Indicator?”
> 
> I peeled away the stickers off the fuse panel and the original panel 
> inscription has a fuse for a “Close Hauled Indicator.”
> 
> Cheers, 
>   Jeremy
>   1978 C #41
> 
 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List Anchor chain advice

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Curious,  How does someone get 300# of chain from the store to the boat?  


At 1.10#/ft that will weigh 302#.  Split it up into 6) 5gal buckets, the 
portions would be more manageble at 50# each and that would fit in a dolly/cart 
and could be safely handled by one person, as in lifted in and out of a car.



I'm a big believer in using a 20# kellet and/or two anchors.   My boat does not 
have an anchor locker, so I have to carry my rode out of the cabin.   I keep it 
all in a canvas carryall bag and I've done it so many times, it's become very 
easy. 



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On November 20, 2018 at 10:29 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
>  
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I've got an old simpson lawrence sprint 1500 windlass on Rum Runner with 
> an RC172 gypsy.  This gypsy is for 5/16” G43 HT ISO chain.  Currently I can't 
> identify the existing chain but it certainly is the wrong size for the gypsy 
> and the measurements don't match G4 or BBB chain.  I have 45lb CQR that came 
> with the boat.  So, my plan currently is to go with a new chain and shackle.  
> I was thinking of going all chain at about 275 feet of the 5/16 G4.  This is 
> by no means a small investment!  Defender has a 275 foot 1/2 drum for just 
> under $800.  this is the cheapest I can find by a few hundred bucks.  the 
> shackle will add another $100...  I may be able to save a few bucks by 
> waiting for the spring sale.
> 
> My question is really more of search for validation.  Does this solution 
> seem well suited for my situation.  Currently we are coastal cruisers that do 
> a week out a couple times a summer around the cape and islands but, I do have 
> visions of venturing further.
> 
> my only choices for a gypsy is the current one or replace that with one 
> that takes 3/8 BBB chain.   That chain is actually more expensive, heavier 
> and has a lower working load limit.
> 
> Does all chain seem like overkill?  I could also buy a pail of 90 feet 
> 5/16 G4 for $300.  the weight difference is about 200lbs over the 275 feet of 
> chain.  My T40 has a displacement of 17,250lbs according to sailboat data.  
> the mantus website recommends 5/16 G4 chain for boats up to 40 feet and 
> 20,000 lbs.  I know I'm nearing the limit but, I think this is the most 
> practical solution for now.   If I were to head off into the sunset, I 
> believe I would upgrade the windlass, chain and anchor but, for now...
> 
> I'd also like to throw a word out for John over at SL Spares.  We've been 
> emailing for a month or two figuring out exactly what I have and my options 
> going forward.  really great service if you happen to have one of these old 
> simpson lawence units!
> 
> -- 
> Danny
> T40
> Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
> 


 

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> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
> 


 
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Like Dennis says, there's no one way to do this.  My 2 cents on Fuel Polishing. 
 

Fuel worried me a great deal when I bought my boat since it had sat for two 
years.  I don't motor much so the fuel sits and gets older each year.  I have 
an 18 gallon tank, so I got me three 5 gallon jerry cans and ran the level down 
at the end of one season and over the winter, I pumped the remaining fuel out 
of the tank and gifted it to a friend's heating oil tank.  I removed the fuel 
sender which gave me a large enough access hole, I could swab out the bottom of 
the tank.  There wasn't a great deal of sludge and my worries may have been 
unjustified.  But I knew what I had.  Then I added the correct amount of 
biocide and SeaFoam for 15 gallons and added fresh fuel to the tank.   Result:  
I found my Universal M4-30 started easier and more reliably every time.  That 
was 12 years ago.  I believe in using clean Fresh Fuel whenever possible.  


Did some research on Parker filters and how they are rated for something like 
500 gallons before changing.  I keep spares aboard but I only burn about 20 
gallons a year.  I changed my filters after 7 years (140 gallons)  and they 
looked just fine.Now it's been 9 years but I burn even less fuel since 
moving my boat to the Chesapeake Bay.  I may change the filters this year or 
next. 


Chapter two, 

This year my 29 year old OEM aluminum fuel tank developed pin holes and red 
liquid leaked onto my freshly painted bilge.  I bought a new 30 gallon plastic 
tank and new fuel lines and will install those over the coming winter.  This 
will give the boat enough range to run from Cape May to Block Island and should 
be good for another 30 plus years.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On November 14, 2018 at 3:32 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> +1 on everything Charlie said.
> 
> I installed a vacuum gauge on Touche' years ago.  Great decision.  Let's 
> me run the filter elements much longer than before.
> 
> I am pessimistic about fuel polishing.  Unless the vendor has a super 
> dooper high pressure rig that can blast the corners and really suck 
> everything out, they are a waste of $$$.  A friend of mine went to take his 
> boat to a race once in moderately rough seas.  Got about an hour out and had 
> filter element pluggage.  Changed elements and got boat back to home marina.  
> Had fuel polished.  Started out next day with same result.  Wasted $$$.
> 
> It is much, much better to remove the tank and clean it than to have the 
> fuel polished.  If you can get the tank out, inspect it for pinholes, throw a 
> handful of gravel in it, shake it a lot then rinse it thoroughly with water 
> followed by alcohol.  
> 
> Last year I helped a buddy clean his tank.  He couldn't remove it so he 
> installed a diesel safe inspectin port in the top.  We emptied the tank, 
> reached in and wiped all the crud out with rags.
> 
> When I bought Touche', I completely cleaned the fuel system.  It was 
> gasoline powered at the time and had been sitting for years.  The fuel line 
> was a copper tube.  I disconnected each end, placed a coffee can at one end 
> and squirted carburetor cleaner from the other end until it ran clear.  
> 
> I guess my point is that there is no silver bullet here.  Having a clean 
> fuel system is critical and is worth any amount of work to make it reliable 
> is worth the effort.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 1:50 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > +1 on the uselessness of polishing your fuel. 
> > +1 on use of vacuum gauges if properly installed—their installation 
> > can introduce air leaks where they are installed.
> > 
> > Screen on pick-up tube could also be clogged.
> > 
> > +1 on removing all current fuel and crud by getting tank out of 
> > boat. A pita but doable if you can empty it first (electric or manual fuel 
> > pump via sender port).
> > 
> > AFTER it is cleaned, check out operation. If problem still there, 
> > start searching for vacuum leaks or filter problems.
> > 
> > FWIW
> > 
> > Charlie Nelson
> > 1995 C XL/kcb
> > Water Phantom
> > 
> > 
> > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> > Get the new AOL app:http://mail.mobile.aol.com
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the keel!

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Gary,


I think I'll eventually donate my boat, so I'm interested in the process of 
your organzation. 

Can you send me an application or what you require?

Can you send me a list of boats that sold this year and the prices fetched?   


Thanks

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On November 14, 2018 at 3:40 PM Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I volunteer for one such organization. The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum 
> accepts donated boats all year. We sell some via our advertising. We hold a 
> huge auction each Labor Day. This year there were about 125 boats. What a 
> donor gets is: we take immediate possession of the boat, move it to our 
> location (that’s where I come in) and when we sell it, you get a donation 
> document for what we got. You cannot just ‘guess’ at the value, to be legal, 
> it has to be what it actually moves for.
> 
>  
> 
> I’ll come over to the western shore and sail/motor it over here – have 
> done it many times.
> 
>  
> 
> Gary Nylander
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
> Wolford via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 3:11 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of 
> the keel!
> 
>  
> 
> If it’s an IRS-qualified 501(c)(3), yes.  There are organizations out 
> there that are set up to accept donated boats and cars specifically for tax 
> deduction purposes.  They sell them for whatever they can get and use the 
> proceeds for charitable purposes.  I would think you could donate this boat 
> for about a $7,500 – $10,000 tax donation, depending on the condition.  On 
> the other hand, some people prefer the cash.
> 
>  
> 
> From: Steve Staten via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:59 PM
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Cc: Steve Staten mailto:steve-sta...@cherokee.org
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of 
> the keel!
> 
>  
> 
> So…wouldn’t the donation of a great, much-appreciated boat to a veterans 
> sailing camp be tax deductible? Seriously?
> 
>  
> 
> Steve Staten
> 
> C’Est La Vie, 26
> 
> Langley, OK
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della 
> Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 


 
___

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Re: Stus-List Filling diesel tank

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

FWIW, I also hate the new fuel cans but learned they do work if used correctly. 
I found I have to forego the funnel and lift the can so it is over the fill 
hole. Then I lower the can so the nozzle enters the fill and guide the nozzle 
so the little step rests on the edge of the fill and lower the can so the step 
takes the weight and opens the valve in the spout. Some cans require you to 
line up a release mechanism and others have a trigger. It means holding a lot 
of awkward weight until the valve opens and then balancing the can for a few 
minutes as it drains.

The long clear hose Dennis suggested seems like the best way to go.


> On October 25, 2018 at 10:40 AM "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> My 5-gallon plastic yellow diesel fuel container came with one of those 
> U.S. EPA-approved nozzles that are difficult to operate and actually cause 
> spills.  I replaced that nozzle with a cheap flexible hose-style nozzle that 
> I bought from a local hardware store.  To fill the boat, I set the full 
> diesel container on the deck next to the deck fill, put my finger over the 
> end of the flexible nozzle, tip the can until I get the end of the nozzle 
> into the deck fill (at which point I remove my finger), and then tip the 
> container completely on its side (resting on the deck) while the flexible 
> nozzle goes further into the deck fill.  After that, the container will drain 
> until it’s nearly empty, at which point I lift it to get the last amount of 
> diesel out.  Little or no spillage using this method.
>  
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2018 10:16 AM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com
> Subject: Stus-List Filling diesel tank
>  
> I will soon be topping off my diesel tank for the winter, which I usually 
> do by pouring fuel through a funnel with a water filter from a 5 gal jerry 
> can.  I have found it nearly impossible to pour into the funnel from a full 5 
> gal container and hit the funnel without spilling diesel all over the transom 
> and into the water if still at the dock.  Has anyone found a device that 
> works or come up with a clever way to transfer fuel without spilling?  
> Thanks- Dave
>  
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
>  
> 
> 
> -
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List Painting pedestal

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I painted our black pedestal using Brightside, Matterhorn White back in 2003.  
It still looks good except for a few small places where it got hit by a winch 
handle and scraped off.  I'll touchup with Brightside.  First, I sanded and 
primed with that green primer first and then painted two coats of white.  
Sanding is the most important part as it creates a mechanical tooth that the 
paint can grab onto.  


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On October 12, 2018 at 9:07 AM "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> I believe Edson used to have a fact sheet posted on it website describing 
> how to re-paint pedestals.  As I recall, the biggest problem is getting paint 
> to stick to aluminum.
>  
> From: Chuck Saur via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Friday, October 12, 2018 9:01 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Chuck Saur mailto:cssau...@gmail.com
> Subject: Stus-List Painting pedestal
>  
> Happy fall to all...
> I have disassembled most of the Edson pedestal on my new-to-me 37+ to 
> replace the brake, replace the guard, install a new pod, do some rewiring, 
> and lube and inspect steering.  So now I want to paint the old faded black 
> with a new shiny gloss white.  I would rather do this in place, not removing 
> the ped.   I'm fairly adept in the fine art of masking tape. The old black 
> powder coat is intact, sandable and prime-able. 
>  
> I had the pedestal powder coated on my old 35-3 and loved the results, 
> but am exploring painting this one.
>  
> My question for the list-er collective expertise is what paint and/or 
> procedure would you recommend for this task?  Anyone try this?
>  
> And additional thanks for recommending the idler wheel/bottom plate 
> checkup.  All is fine.  Thanks!!
>  
>  
> 
> 
> Chuck Saur
>  
> (517)-490-5926
> 
>  
> 
> 
> -
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 


 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 


 
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Re: Stus-List years a C owner

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Have owned Resolute, a C 34R, now for 16 years.


> On October 2, 2018 at 1:20 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Have owned Aries (C 34+) since 2013.  Previously had a C 34 which we 
> owned from 2005 until 2011.  
> Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> > > On Sep 27, 2018, at 9:36 AM, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > Hello Al,
> > I have a question for the list.
> > How many of you have owned your current C yacht for 5 years or 
> > longer.
> > 
> > I bought Knot Again in 1993 and have owned her for 25 years.
> > Howard Paul, 35-3
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > 
 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List Love tap while racing or "rough start"

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hopefully nobody had their legs over when he came crashing through the line.  


FWIW, my local club made it a rule that the start line is one way and boats 
over early have to go around the pin end or the committee boat to restart.  
Anyone else have that rule?



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On September 22, 2018 at 6:46 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> That was funny. Hope no one was hurt. 
> 
> 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy 
> Rebecca Leah 
> LF39 
> Port Orchard YC, WA.
> 
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> Date: 9/22/18 09:28 (GMT-08:00)
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: "Dennis C." 
> Subject: Stus-List Love tap while racing or "rough start"
> 
> All this discussion on rules while NOT racing.  Here's an incident from 
> last Wednesday night's race in New Orleans.  How NOT to start a race.  Enjoy.
> 
> https://youtu.be/AIu8mXQOs-g
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 


 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 


 
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Re: Stus-List Deck core repair advice sought

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I did mine from above, as gravity helps and my deck had a few depressions where 
water puddled and mold grew. I needed to add some camber to the deck to avoid 
future puddles, so cutting the deck from above seemed better.


> On September 1, 2018 at 7:54 PM James Bibb via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Chuck.  
> 
> I’d like to follow your experience.  Are you attacking this from the top 
> or bottom?  It’s getting into the late summer up here in SE Alaska and I’m 
> trying to gauge whether this is doable in the off-season.  Clear, warm 
> weather is hard to come by up here.  I could tent and  heat but my thought is 
> to heat the interior even though I’ve been reading about how difficult it is 
> to do working underneath.  
> 
> Thanks again for the follow up.  
> 
> James Bibb.  
> 
> 
> 
>         > > On Sep 1, 2018, at 3:12 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > Hi James,
> > I replaced balsa core on my 34R around my mast collar back in 2007. 
> > I have to look on an older computer for my pictures. I wound up making a 
> > G10 boss around the deck opening and epoxying a 1/4" sleeve around the 
> > opening to protect the balsa from water.
> > 
> > I find kevlar in every part of the boat though many people tell me 
> > it isn't required in a small patch. The stringers under the floor had at 
> > least six layers of kevlar alternating with glass and mat making 13 to 15 
> > layers total. The solid vertical parts of the cockpit and transom have 
> > glass, mat, glass, mat, kevlar, mat kevlar, mat, glass, mat, glass. The 
> > deck has 3/4" balsa and a layup that I think is glass, mat, kevlar, mat, 
> > glass above and below. That gives two layers of kevlar to the composite 
> > structure. If you follow best practices and grind the skin to a 12:1 bevel 
> > recommended by West System you will see the layers.
> > 
> > I'll try to find pictures and send them to your email.
> > 
> > Good luck with your project. I have about six feet of each of my 
> > side decks to do this fall.
> > 
> > 
> > > > > On August 31, 2018 at 9:05 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > 
> > > Mine is a 37+ but I presume that much of the design and 
> > > construction is similar.
> > > 
> > > The design notes regarding Kevlar have it as part of the 
> > > layup. I think Ken Heaton might have a better idea but the idea is that 
> > > the Kevlar simply makes up some of the layers of matting/roving in the 
> > > fiberglass. I would expect it in the hull and would not be surprised to 
> > > see it in the deck. Hard to say if it would be preferentially placed in 
> > > the inner or outer skin.
> > > 
> > > As for the core,  I was anticipating deck rot when I had my 
> > > mast pulled.  To my pleasant surprise the cabin top directly around the 
> > > mast is not cored.  Throughout the boat you can see where coring starts 
> > > and stops by the thickness changing.  A perfect example is near the toe 
> > > rail.  There is a 3" wide deck section all the way around the boat.  I 
> > > thought it was just a gutter.  It is, but it is also an area which is not 
> > > cored.  Same thing in the anchor locker as the hull walls approach the 
> > > toe rail.  Repairs from in the cabin have the challenge of not having 
> > > direct access to the cabin top since there is a "headliner".  You can 
> > > inspect and get an idea of what lies ahead but in order to re-core you 
> > > would want unfettered access to the entire area of rot.  You'd be best 
> > > cut around the rim to remove the entire headliner.  I do like the idea of 
> > > not disturbing the outer skin.  If you end up going the outside route I 
> > > suggest trying to keep as much of the skin together as a single piece or 
> > > symmetrical pieces.  A product I like that can finish off this type of 
> > > work is kiwi-grip.  It is a urethane non-skid with a thick coat and 
> > > variable texture.  It covers seams in the skins great.
> > > 
> > > Rig-rit sells mast boot tape which I like.  Black 2mm thick, 
> > > 5' wide. http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Mast_boot_%20Tape.php
> > > 
> > > As much as I liked the product, when I had my mast re-st

Re: Stus-List Deck core repair advice sought

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi James,
I replaced balsa core on my 34R around my mast collar back in 2007. I have to 
look on an older computer for my pictures. I wound up making a G10 boss around 
the deck opening and epoxying a 1/4" sleeve around the opening to protect the 
balsa from water.

I find kevlar in every part of the boat though many people tell me it isn't 
required in a small patch. The stringers under the floor had at least six 
layers of kevlar alternating with glass and mat making 13 to 15 layers total. 
The solid vertical parts of the cockpit and transom have glass, mat, glass, 
mat, kevlar, mat kevlar, mat, glass, mat, glass. The deck has 3/4" balsa and a 
layup that I think is glass, mat, kevlar, mat, glass above and below. That 
gives two layers of kevlar to the composite structure. If you follow best 
practices and grind the skin to a 12:1 bevel recommended by West System you 
will see the layers.

I'll try to find pictures and send them to your email.

Good luck with your project. I have about six feet of each of my side decks to 
do this fall.


> On August 31, 2018 at 9:05 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Mine is a 37+ but I presume that much of the design and construction is 
> similar.
> 
> The design notes regarding Kevlar have it as part of the layup. I think 
> Ken Heaton might have a better idea but the idea is that the Kevlar simply 
> makes up some of the layers of matting/roving in the fiberglass. I would 
> expect it in the hull and would not be surprised to see it in the deck. Hard 
> to say if it would be preferentially placed in the inner or outer skin.
> 
> As for the core,  I was anticipating deck rot when I had my mast pulled.  
> To my pleasant surprise the cabin top directly around the mast is not cored.  
> Throughout the boat you can see where coring starts and stops by the 
> thickness changing.  A perfect example is near the toe rail.  There is a 3" 
> wide deck section all the way around the boat.  I thought it was just a 
> gutter.  It is, but it is also an area which is not cored.  Same thing in the 
> anchor locker as the hull walls approach the toe rail.  Repairs from in the 
> cabin have the challenge of not having direct access to the cabin top since 
> there is a "headliner".  You can inspect and get an idea of what lies ahead 
> but in order to re-core you would want unfettered access to the entire area 
> of rot.  You'd be best cut around the rim to remove the entire headliner.  I 
> do like the idea of not disturbing the outer skin.  If you end up going the 
> outside route I suggest trying to keep as much of the skin together as a 
> single piece or symmetrical pieces.  A product I like that can finish off 
> this type of work is kiwi-grip.  It is a urethane non-skid with a thick coat 
> and variable texture.  It covers seams in the skins great.
> 
> Rig-rit sells mast boot tape which I like.  Black 2mm thick, 5' wide. 
> http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Mast_boot_%20Tape.php
> 
> As much as I liked the product, when I had my mast re-stepped the yard 
> used what they had and it seemed like almost exactly the same except that it 
> was even wider - Like 6 or 7 inches.  Call Zanhizers in Solomons MD and they 
> can probably send you a roll.  You might have to talk to Phil or Jack.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> On Fri, Aug 31, 2018, 8:27 PM James Bibb via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > I have some soft deck repair anticipated around my mast 
> opening…above head on port cabin leading edge where folks jump the halyards 
> and foredeck area where the bowman has been working since 1991.
> > 
> > 1991 C 34-36R so the deck is composite. I assume also of the most 
> > part however the brief design notes mention a mixture of kevlar and balsa.  
> > Does anybody know where the distinction is around the boat? 
> > 
> > I’ll be removing the mast for this work. 
> > 
> > Also…from below or above?  I really want to leave the gelcoat 
> > intake and if I can work on the boat over the next few months…have the 
> > heated cabin environment to help curing.
> > 
> > Anybody been down this road?
> > 
> > Also….need to find a replacement mast boot.  The current one is 
> > worn and needs replacing.
> > 
> > 
> > Thanks!
> > 
> > James Bibb
> > 
> > SV Darwins Folly
> > 1991 C 34-36R
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly 

Re: Stus-List FWD: 2018 C Northeast Rendezvous -- The Details (Registration Closes Friday, 3:00p)

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Edd,

I fully appreciate you pulling the Northeast C rendezvous together.
Sorry, I've been in coma all summer.
I was suddenly let go from my job in July and I've been enjoying some 
unexpected but rare time off and got back into windsurfing. My boat is on the 
hard near Baltimore in the Chesapeake Bay and it's been too hot to work on it. 
I hope to join your rendezvous by driving up. It appears that Saturday night 
looks the best for me. Do I need to register if I'm just driving up? (I make a 
really great chili and might bring that to the potluck.)

Chuck Scheaffer, 1990 C 34R, Resolute


> On August 29, 2018 at 1:00 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> The below message was just sent to our registered attendees to the 2018 
> C Northeast Rendezvous at Milford, CT. 
> There is still time to join in, but registration will close this Friday 
> (day after tomorrow) at 3:00pm. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> 
> Begin forwarded message:
> 
> From: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@trial.com >
> Subject: 2018 C Northeast Rendezvous -- The Details
> 
> 
> C’ers:
>  
> First and foremost, we are looking forward to seeing you 
> at our 2018 C Northeast Rendezvous in Milford, CT! This email covers some 
> of the details of the event – please do read it carefully and let me know if 
> any changes need to be made in regards to your boat’s details.
>  
> The extended weather forecast looks phenomenal, showing 
> mostly sunny to partly cloudy skies, with highs in the upper 70’s and lows in 
> the mid 60’s.
>  
> We have a series of docks reserved at Milford Lisman 
> Landing Marina – located at the very end of Milford Harbor. The channel is 
> plenty deep, but mind your charts.
>  
> (chart image removed due to List message size limits)
>  
> These are floating docks with 30A power, and the marina 
> features restrooms and showers. On approach, contact the marina at VHF 
> Channel 9 with your boat’s name. Your reservation has been made and dockage 
> fees are all pre-paid. Reservation details:
>  
> Boat Name
> Model
> Arrival
> Departure
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+
> Thu, Sept 6
> Sun, Sept 9
> Weatherly
> C 35
> Fri, Sept 7
> Sun, Sept 9
> Aries
> C 34+
> Fri, Sept 7
> Sat, Sept 8
> Hideaway
> C 35 Mk III
> Fri, Sept 7
> Sun, Sept 9
> Olivia Grace
> C Landfall 38
> Fri, Sept 7
> Sat, Sept 8
> Knot Again
> C 35 Mk III
> Fri, Sept 7
> Sun, Sept 9
> Destrier
> C 30
> Fri, Sept 7
> Sun, Sept 9
>  
> The marina is a short walk to Broad Street (shops, 
> restaurants) and Wilcox Park. For those of you with a sweet tooth, Milford’s 
> Scoopy Doo’s Ice Cream Shop is next door.  
>  
> As for the swag – aside from name tags and neck wallets, 
> each boat will receive a beach bag, a collapsible nylon backpack and a pen 
> with stylus tip compliments of my organization, The Network of Trial Law 
> Firms. 
>  
> Dinner for the first night will be at the marina’s picnic 
> area overlooking the harbor. It’s a completely unorganized pot luck, so bring 
> whatever dish you like as well as paper plates and plasticware. Before 
> retiring for the evening, we’ll climb aboard a cockpit or two for cocktails 
> and cigars (bring your own), as I like to call it “C’s on C’s.”
>  
> On Saturday, we can have informal boat tours of each 
> other’s boats as well as enjoy the day in Milford. Walk around, play in the 
> park or relax on your C
>  
> On Saturday night, 6:00p, attendees from Enterprise (2), 
> Weatherly (3), Hideaway (4), and Knot Again (2) have a patio reservation at 
> Archie Moore’s Pub and Restaurant. Included in the above-mentioned boats’ 
> reservation is a complete appetizer package of buffalo wings, chicken 
> fingers, cheese quesadillas and eggplant fries, along with soda/coffee. If 
> you’d like something more or different, beer or alcohol, or something more 
> healthy (God forbid), there is a full menu to order from (pay restaurant 
> separately).
>  
> Afterwards, we can do more “C’s on C’s” before 
> turning in and our voyages back home the next morning.
>  
> Finally, here’s a list of who’s who (* means included in 
> Archie Moore’s dinner):
>  
> Boat Name
> Attendee 1
> Attendee 2
> Attendee 3
> Attendee 4
> Starship Enterprise
> Edd Schillay*
> Ellen Schillay*
>  
>  
> Weatherly
> Neil Gallagher*
> Marie Gallagher*
> Maureen Gallagher”
>  
> Aries
> David Knecht
> Lori Smolin
>  
>  
> Hideaway
> John Pratt*
> Joe Bernz*
> Jane Bernz*
> Suzie Pratt*
> 

Re: Stus-List Attractions on Long Island?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I am a member of Mystic Seaport Museum in Mystic Conn and know you could spend 
a full day there.  They have the whaler Charles W Morton, the sail training 
ship Joseph Conrad, The Grand Banks schooner LA Duntan and many other fine 
yachts. 


Chuck


> On August 30, 2018 at 10:23 AM "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> I will be accompanying the Admiral as she makes a business trip to 
> central Long Island in a couple weeks.  I'll have a free day or two.  I see 
> some maritime museums listed in the area.  Any of them worthwhile?  Any other 
> things that are recommended?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Idler plate corrosion & imminent failure

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce,

FYI, Photos of our idler plate replacement are still on the website. The link 
is listed on the main page of
http://cncphotoalbum.com/


> On August 20, 2018 at 3:23 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> This issue has been brought up numerous times, but bears repeating.  Had 
> it not been for a number of the folk here on the board, I would not have 
> known to check the idler plate.  Here's a couple photos of ours: 
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/kraaoftygwm02ie/Idler%20Plate%20%231.jpg?dl=0
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/pd3el5231il4g1k/Idler%20Plate%20%232.jpg?dl=0
> 
> As you can see, there wasn't much holding it together!
> 
> After a couple attempts to see if I could get the part made locally, I 
> sent it to Edson.  They are re-using the idler pulleys, and the replacement 
> was $341 including shipping, $150 of which was labor.  The plate is aluminum, 
> and I still need to see what I will do to address the fact that the aluminum 
> plate is thicker than the original mild steel plate.  I think I can grind 
> down the fiberglass in the cockpit rather than putting in a spacer, but I'll 
> figure that out when the plate arrives.
> 
> For those of you who have 37/40+ boats or other boats where the idler 
> wheels are NOT mounted below deck, I highly recommend you inspect the plate 
> closely!.  Our radial drive wheel and idlers are accessible via a removable 
> panel in the cockpit sole rather than by crawling down into a locker (or some 
> such).  This results in the plate being exposed to water and, especially in 
> salt water conditions, to extreme corrosion. 
> 
> Even for those of you with idler plates below deck, I would recommend a 
> close inspection.  The top side of the plate may be corroding without you 
> realizing it, and the unit's failure could be catastrophic, as it would very 
> likely occur at a time when you need your steering most. 
> 
> Hoping you find this helpful, and thanks to those of you on the board who 
> warned me about the issue! 
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I'm adding a vote for raising the boom end by altering the mainsail.

My gooseneck is welded. I expect I could find a new mast fitting that fit and 
screw it onto the mast above the OEM product. I'd leave the old fitting as it 
adds strength and wouldn't be in the way of anything.

In 2012, I had a sailmaker simply add a flattening reef cringle in the leech 
($75) on a racing sail. Last year I had a sailmaker raise the clew on J-109 
mainsail 18" because it was originally made for a tiller steered boat and 
allowed the boom to droop below 90 degrees. It actually touched the wheel and 
could jam it. He kept the tack and reshaped the foot of the sail, new foot line 
etc ($300 for a loose footed main). You may find a better deal.

> On August 7, 2018 at 10:16 AM Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>
>
> Nathan;
>
> When I rerigged Imzadi back in 2011 or 2012, I talked to my sailmaker and the 
> rigger about doing what you are considering. Imzadi's boom was about 30" off 
> the deck, which put the vang at a marginally flat angle and limited the 
> access to the companionway. I, too, wanted to put on a taller dodger to aid 
> access below.
>
> They pointed out that the black stripe at the top of the mast (an indicator 
> of the max luff length for racing purposes) was a foot below the top of the 
> mast, so the gooseneck and black stripe could both be moved up and still be 
> legal. My gooseneck was installed on the mast with 8 or 10 machine screws, so 
> it was an easy task to move the gooseneck up about 8" and repaint the black 
> stripe.
>
> I find no difference in the sailing qualities of my boat. The rigid vang is 
> much closer to the optimum 45 degree angle. Clearance in the cockpit is 
> better. And there is enough room over the companionway that a hard dodger 
> with solar panels mounted on it has been added to the project list.
>
> The first downside is that the top batten in the main (a five batten main 
> with maximum roach) tends to get caught by the backstay when tacking in light 
> winds. But I have the same problem with my 25, and the gooseneck is in the 
> original location. A timely tug down on the boom is sometimes needed to clear 
> the batten. Since you indicate you have a second hand main that is 1 1/2 feet 
> shorter than the proper main for your boat, I don't imagine you have this 
> problem. It might become an issue when you get a new sail that is the proper 
> length.
>
> The second downside is the result of the Tides Strong Track on the mast and 
> the new main I bought last year. The new main has more "slugs" in the track 
> than the old one (though it is the number recommended by Tides for the luff 
> length of a main for a 38) and the stack height puts the top of the headboard 
> just about as high as I can reach when connecting the halyard or putting on 
> the mainsail cover. I sometimes wish I was a couple of inches taller.
>
> All in all, I'm pleased with the consequences of moving my gooseneck up.
>
> Rick Brass
> Imzadi C 38 mk2 #47
> la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1 #225
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nathan 
> Post via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2018 8:33 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Nathan Post 
> Subject: Stus-List Raising the boom?
>
> All,
>
> Having sailed our 1981 C 34 a few times and while looking into having a 
> dodger and bimini made for her I am considering raising the boom about 8 to 
> 10 inches. Good idea or bad idea? Has anyone done this on their boat?
>
> We are only planning on cruising, not racing. The current full batten 
> mainsail (which is probably a used replacement as the sail number on it 
> doesn’t correspond to the boat) falls well short of the masthead when fully 
> raised and the head is about 18 inches below of the top of the track so there 
> is plenty of room up there without recutting it. At its current height the 
> boom is about eye level for me when standing and my wife bumps her head if 
> she is not careful - getting it above head height would be nice for comfort 
> and would also allow the dodger to be a bit higher.
>
> I know raising the main higher will hurt performance a bit in windy 
> conditions, but I am not sure how much it will degrade the handling or 
> balance. It will also change the main sheet angle a bit and reduce the 
> effectiveness of the cabin top traveler but with installing a new vang I 
> don’t think that will be so important. However, I love how well balanced the 
> boat is - she sails beautifully - so I don’t want to mess that up.
>
> Thoughts?
> Thanks,
> Nathan
>
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C 34
> Lynn, MA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> 

Re: Stus-List Catharsis message

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi David,
Sorry about the grounding.
Boats can be fixed. Be thankful you and crew are OK.

I have had many groundings that were no big deal and one horrible grounding 
that cost me $16K, so I know your pain very well. I hope your insurance comes 
through for you. Keep us posted on developments.


> On July 16, 2018 at 11:18 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> It is a sad morning here and I need some help to drag me out of my 
> depression.  This list is my support group, advisers, experts and therapists. 
>  Or maybe you will kick my butt for being an idiot and that could help as 
> well.  Aries had a serious grounding on a reef on Saturday and is currently 
> awaiting insurance to start assessing the situation.  We were barely towed 
> off the reef by SeaTow and the boat is on the hard at a local marina.  The 
> damage is worse than I had hoped and better than it could have been.  When 
> they were able to pull us off the lip of the reef (tide going out, getting 
> desperate) the rudder hit the reef and bent the shaft, damaged the hull 
> around the shaft and pushed the rear tip of the rudder up through the hull.   
>  The bottom of the wing keel is also chewed up from grinding on the reef.  
> That sound of hull grinding over rock is now forever seared into my brain.  
> South Shore yachts actually lists the rudder on their site (thanks to the 
> list for making me aware of their C parts), and I am hoping there is 
> nothing else damaged that was not obvious.  No one was hurt, except my pride 
> and confidence.  Leaving the marina, I now have an appreciation for the 
> emotions of people who abandon their floating homes at sea.  At least I will 
> hopefully get mine back.
> 
> I have gone over the incident a thousand times trying to understand what 
> happened and how I could have prevented it.  I thought I was hyperaware of 
> all the hazards in the Fishers Island Sound area and swore that I would never 
> ground the boat again after an incident with an unmarked reef during a race a 
> few years ago.  I try to race with a priority of safety, fun and speed, in 
> that order.  I almost always have crew who are not sailors other than racing 
> with me, which I enjoy, but takes some of my focus away from other things.  
> We had spent the day in a long race all over Fishers Island sound.  It was 
> blowing 15+ and we had worked very hard to get around the course and the last 
> leg was a straight downwind sprint to the finish heading due North toward the 
> CT coast.  With 3 inexperienced crew I was happy that we were in second place 
> in our class and focused on getting to the line.  We crossed the line, then 
> jibed over to head back west to parallel the coast to our home port of New 
> London and had just taken a deep breath, congratulated the crew when we hit 
> the reef.  It turns out that the Race Committee had set the finish line 
> inshore and just East of the single offshore buoy marking Horseshoe Reef.  I 
> never saw (or recognized) the buoy because it was behind the mainsail as we 
> approached the finish and I was looking for the finish line, not other buoys. 
>  By the time we jibed, it was essentially over my shoulder.  I did not see 
> the buoy until I looked around when we hit the reef and realized where we 
> were.  A hundred yards inshore and we would have been fine and a hundred 
> yards offshore and we would have seen the buoy and passed the correct side of 
> it.  I think the Race Committee deserves some part of the blame for setting 
> the finish line in a dangerous location but certainly my lack of awareness of 
> where I was relative to dangers (of which there are many in Fishers Island 
> Sound) was the major factor.  If I had looked carefully at the chart at any 
> point, I presume I would have recognized the danger of the finishing area, 
> but we were closely following the lead boat and so our location was not an 
> issue until we finished. I was in familiar waters but I just did not 
> recognize precisely where I was in familiar waters.  The other boats near us 
> turned East while we turned West so we were not following anyone after the 
> turn.  
> 
> If anyone has any suggestions, comments or strategies to help prevent 
> this, I am all ears.  A moments inattention is all it took and it makes me 
> concerned about several factors- age, racing with non-sailor crew, racing in 
> general.   In our Wednesday night races, we race around the same marks every 
> week, and it has taken time, but I now think I know every hazard and am aware 
> of where we are relative to them while also keeping on top of the boat and 
> crew.  This was an area I have sailed in many times but rarely race there.  
> Also in terms of the incident itself, if Seatow had not happened to be in the 
> area and seen us and we were not able to get the boat off the reef until the 
> next high tide, I have no idea what we would have done.  I know I have 
> learned from other people’s 

Re: Stus-List Halyard Restrainer on a 35 footer

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

While I have the mast out, I'm doing this myself so looking for advice on which 
restrainer to buy.


> On July 15, 2018 at 6:19 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Depending on your rigger, it might be easier and less expensive to have 
> him add a low profile ‘bale’ or mast mounted small block to provide what you 
> need.
> 
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the new AOL app:http://mail.mobile.aol.com
> 
>     On Sunday, July 15, 2018, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> > > 
> > Hi Guys,
> > 
> > 
> > I've got a 35 footer and want to add a halyard restrainer to my 
> > mast and have a synthetic halyard that is stripped, and see two choices.   
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > I see a Schaefer SS fairlead and a Harken Sheave.  The fairlead is 
> > cheaper and has a smaller profile.  The Harken product is bulkier but might 
> > chafe less.  Which should I get?
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > http://www.apsltd.com/schaefer-halyard-restrainer-large.html?fee=5=49391_source=Google+Shopping_medium=cpc_campaign=Product=Cj0KCQjwvqbaBRCOARIsAD9s1XDQsK2f4i46UwgDUXWMIx1n0PV5_pW63EqoKZr7eeikXey9cqTUamkaArfTEALw_wcB
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > http://www.apsltd.com/halyard-restrainer-1.html?fee=5=21107_source=Google+Shopping_medium=cpc_campaign=Product=CjwKCAjw4avaBRBPEiwA_ZetYmeX2q2YpUCYj7Ktft3-HTSj34cx_-T9jSunxda7CobYDvAdW6ZoIhoCla8QAvD_BwE
> >   
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Chuck
> > Resolute
> > 1990 C 34R
> > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. 
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Halyard Restrainer on a 35 footer

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Guys,


I've got a 35 footer and want to add a halyard restrainer to my mast and have a 
synthetic halyard that is stripped, and see two choices.   

 

I see a Schaefer SS fairlead and a Harken Sheave.  The fairlead is cheaper and 
has a smaller profile.  The Harken product is bulkier but might chafe less.  
Which should I get?


http://www.apsltd.com/schaefer-halyard-restrainer-large.html?fee=5=49391_source=Google+Shopping_medium=cpc_campaign=Product=Cj0KCQjwvqbaBRCOARIsAD9s1XDQsK2f4i46UwgDUXWMIx1n0PV5_pW63EqoKZr7eeikXey9cqTUamkaArfTEALw_wcB


http://www.apsltd.com/halyard-restrainer-1.html?fee=5=21107_source=Google+Shopping_medium=cpc_campaign=Product=CjwKCAjw4avaBRBPEiwA_ZetYmeX2q2YpUCYj7Ktft3-HTSj34cx_-T9jSunxda7CobYDvAdW6ZoIhoCla8QAvD_BwE
  

 



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List 1988 37R Keel Shortening Advice?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Check out Mars Metals. They made the original keels.

https://marskeel.com/production/repair-modifications/draft-reductions/


> On July 13, 2018 at 12:58 PM Languid Refiner via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Everyone, I've purchased the 1988 37R 'Assailant' in Ontario and will 
> be using her as a cruiser instead of a racer. The 8'1" draw looks like it 
> will cause me some grief with the sailing I want to do along the St. Lawrence 
> River and onward. My plan is to shorten the keel. Does anyone have advice or 
> guidance to offer?
> 
> Many Thanks,
> 
> Noah
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List boat specs misreported

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Glad to see actual draft reported for the 37/40.  I believe many builders 
misreported draft and displacement to sell boats back in the 70's and 80's.  


Long ago, I noticed many differences between spec numbers and actual numbers 
for our boats. The 34/36 is spec'd for 4' 10 draft but the actual draft is 
closer to 5' 3".  I once asked Rob Ball about this and he said marketing was 
responsible and beyond his control.   

 


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Did this job in 2015.  Edson offered only the cast aluminum idler plate.  Its better than the OEM, but raises the pedestal somewhat.  Expect to make a trim ring from 3/4 stock; starboard or foamboard.  I offered my templates to Edson, but they were mute.  Another option mentioned by Francois, contact Garhauer to make a new one in SS.  I never did that cause I found a way to make the Edson one work. My unit has the original bronze sheaves, SS towers, aluminum base, SS cable going round an aluminum radial sheave.On July 5, 2018 at 3:38 PM Ron Ricci via CnC-List  wrote:  Richard,    My 37+ has an Edson 776-4AL which has a stamped steel plate with aluminum sheaves.  It cost me $303 in 2014.  This part is no longer listed on the Edson website.  The plate which is about 1/8” thick and is sandwiched between the bottom of the pedestal and fiberglass on the cockpit floor.  The newer 776AL-4AL has an aluminum plate with aluminum sheaves.  The plate is about half an inch thick so when sandwiched as the original steel plate, the pedestal will sit about 3/8” higher and probably show a gap.       The original steel plate would have worked had the location been in a dry area below the pedestal.  C should have used a stainless steel or aluminum plate in the 37+/40 application.  There may be similar issues on other boats.  Maybe Edson knows which C’s used the 776-4AL in an exposed area.  There may be a demand for an identical replacement using a more suitable plate material.  When I got my 776-4AL, the Edson person who helped me said they could water cut new plates as the original dies were probably gone.  Edson had files on the 37+ and I do remember the person at the counter hollering back to one of the offices, “Hey Rob, we have one of your boats”.  Magically, a file folder with details of the 37+ appeared.    Edson is really a first class outfit and I’m sure if a few list members contacted them, they’d offer a solution.    Ron    From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bushmark4--- via CnC-ListSent: Thursday, July 5, 2018 9:18 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: bushma...@aol.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate  Ron, do you think the plate issue is indigenous to the 37+/40s or do believe all boats will/should have to replace? Thanks    Richard s/v/ Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River (soon) Richard N. Bush  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite NineLouisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255       -Original Message-From: Ron Ricci via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: Ron Ricci Sent: Thu, Jul 5, 2018 8:37 amSubject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate Bruce, I replaced my idler plate and generally overhauled the steering system several years ago.  The idler pulleys had almost fallen off the plate and the steering cables actually fell off the radial wheel.  I got the next to last plate Edson had in stock and I think the last one is now gone.   Edson told me that when the last idler was gone they could water cut new ones as the dies were no longer available.  Your plate looks OK but I think that it like many others on 37+/40’s will need replacement.  This may be a good time for all 37+/40 owners to inspect their plates.  Regards,RonRon RicciS/V PatriotC 37+Bristol, RIron.ri...@1968.usna.comFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-ListSent: Wednesday, July 4, 2018 3:14 PMTo: C ListCc: Bruce WhitmoreSubject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate  Hello all, I have a 1994 C 37/40+ that we are slowly going through from stem to stern to make sure that I understand the systems and that we're comfortable that we've addressed the major, if not minor issues.  Eventually we will want to do some Caribbean cruising, but for now we're day sailing.   One of the issues I saw brought up was potential wear on idler pulleys and rusting of the idler pulley plate.  One of my steering cables has a couple fine meathooks, so the cables are on the list for replacement in the very near future (I have the cables).  That got me thinking about the plate, and I slid my cell phone in through the stern access and snapped some photos.  You can see them here:     https://www.dropbox.com/s/6loqazy934saift/Idler%20Pulleys%20-%20Farther%20out%20view.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/kss6g0pyrephdb9/Idler%20Pulleys%2C%20closeup%20aft.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/fpsowvbmlx9u383/Idler%20Pully%20Plate%2C%20forward.jpg?dl=0    It seems as though the rust is all on the surface at the moment and the idler pulleys mount securely.     Can anyone tell me how difficult and time consuming it will be to change out the plate?  If the plate only has surface corrosion, is treating it in place with Ospho a reasonable short term solution while I am swapping out the cables (until I can replace the plate entirely)?     Can you also confirm the steps, which I presume to be as follows:   a).  Remove the compass, disconnect compass light, attach a fish line to the 

Re: Stus-List Touche' hydraulic backstay adjuster repair

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Dennis,
Your guy sounds better than the offer I got from Chesapeake Rigging. They 
wanted $800 to do the seals and said the cylinder may be worn and may cost even 
more money.

You remind me I need to place a sun shield on my ram seal also.
I was thinking of using a hole saw to cut a wafer out of 3/8 PVC foamboard and 
slip that down onto the rod.
A stainless fender washer might work better if you can get the hole close to 
the -10 rod diameter. Or a combination of the two.
Third idea: sacrificial O-ring on the rod above the seal.


> On June 27, 2018 at 3:57 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> 
> First, thanks to the list for all the helpful advice, on and off list.
> 
> OK, decision made.  Lots learned.  Lots of thought given.
> 
> First, a hydraulic backstay adjuster is just a hydraulic ram.  Any good 
> hydraulic shop should be able to fix the leak.  I took the adjuster to a 
> local shop and they said they could "probably" fix the leak.  They wanted 
> $125 minimum.  I didn't get a warm, fuzzy feeling that "Bubba" understood the 
> exposure to saltwater, the importance of stainless parts, etc.
> 
> So I gave it a bit more thought.  My adjuster is 18 years old.  It has 
> been exposed to the elements for those 18 years.  My research suggests that 
> the root cause is probably deterioration of the top seal.  It is exposed to 
> UV.  Once the top seal fails, grit may enter the unit and then cause damage 
> to the piston seals resulting in leakage and failure.  Further, if not fixed 
> properly, the grit may score the cylinder, rendering the unit unfixable.  So, 
> we may be dealing with more than just a "leak".
> 
> Given that, I decided to opt for a full rebuild rather than let Bubba fix 
> only the leak.  After talking with Lew Townsend and a few other Navtec 
> agents, the pricing seems to be in the $350-400 range.  The seal kit is about 
> $100 online.  
> 
> Right now, it's on it's way to Stix-N-Rig'n in Kemah, TX.  They have good 
> online reviews and seemed knowledgeable and competent.  Hopefully, I'll get a 
> good fix and a quick turnaround.  I'll let the list know how it goes.
> 
> As a final note, I need to figure a way to protect the top seal from UV 
> exposure.  I might find a proper size plastic washer or plastic or PVC cap 
> and slip it down the rod so it sits on top of the cylinder and shades the 
> seal.  
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Cleat (revisited)

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi John,
Please send me a picture of your boat in the slip and I might have some ideas 
on how to rig springs.


> On June 27, 2018 at 5:13 PM John Conklin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> simply because of my docking situation i have only 1 half finger pier and 
> 3 pilings one side and 4 other with 1/2 pier. so no place to put spring lines 
> that function tohold   boat from goong fore and aft. And no place  no room 
> for 2 lines on bow or stern cleats even if I could go  that route 
> This rookie is still working out details as to what works best 
> 
> JohnC
> s/v halcyon
> 
> On Jun 27, 2018, at 10:59 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> 
> > > 
> > I’ve actually been following this discussion, though I don’t 
> > foresee the need for a mid-ship cleat on Imzadi.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Imzadi is one of the mid-70s C that came with a winch farm 
> > around the mast. I’ve led lines aft and eliminated the winches, but kept 
> > the cleats on the cabin top. The spring lines in my home slip are attached 
> > high on pilings so they can be routed over the lifelines and to the cabin 
> > top mid-ship cleats. Since I leave a set of lines permanently attached at 
> > the home slip, and they are preset for length with the eye toward the boat, 
> > this makes entering the slip and tying up pretty easy.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > On the bigger boats I’ve worked on (up to about 85 feet or so) and 
> > observed, the normal procedure is to run the springs from the bow and stern 
> > and attach them to the dock in the middle. That is the practice I almost 
> > always use when on a dock other than my home slip. And that is the way my 
> > 25 is secured in her slip.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > On the 72 foot schooner I used to captain, we had prerigged bow and 
> > bow spring through the forward hawse hole, and prerigged stern and aft 
> > spring lines through the aft hole. We did have a short-ish (25 ft. or so) 
> > breast line through a mid-ship hawse, but that line was always the first 
> > line to the dock so I could use the engine fore and aft to snug the boat up 
> > to the dock before setting dock lines, and it was removed and coiled after 
> > the other lines were secure.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > I guess I’m curious why so many other C have added mid-ship 
> > cleats?
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Rick Brass
> > 
> > Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47
> > 
> > la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225
> > 
> > Washington, NC
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > > 
> > > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   
> > https://nam02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7C4d84cfd47e0e4d1e8ce708d5dc573842%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636657189512553038=6YUwyWDmZFrfMumgjCHupSWt1h9QjNVN4veGM0oOnvg%3D=0
> >  
> > https://nam02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7C4d84cfd47e0e4d1e8ce708d5dc573842%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636657189512553038=6YUwyWDmZFrfMumgjCHupSWt1h9QjNVN4veGM0oOnvg%3D=0
> > 
> > 
> > > 
 

> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Touche' hydraulic backstay adjuster repair

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I had great success in 2007 taking my Navtec ram and remote pump to a local 
hydraulic shop that works on heavy equipment rams like dozers and backhoes, 
etc. Chesapeake Rigging wanted $800. I could have bought a new system for 
another $200.

Instead I took it to a shop and it cost me less than $50 and they bench tested 
my equipment to 4000# for 30 min to prove it was tight. The guy said the 
O-rings cost him 25 to 50 cents each. That was ten years ago and it 
occassionaly weeps some oil but it holds pressure for weeks on end.


> On June 26, 2018 at 4:56 PM Francois Rivard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Dennis, 
> 
> You could also call Rick Zern 850.261.4129 ( http://zernrigging.com)
> 
> Great guy, he's definitely Navtec certified some say he's the best Navtec 
> guy in the Southeast. 
> 
> He's in Pensacola, your neck of the woods. Heck, you could drive your 
> adjuster over in a pinch... 
> 
> Good luck on the project.  
> 
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Sling labels

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

It's simple for the 1990 or newer models.  Just line up the slings with the 
ends of the windows.  And tie the slings together on one side so they don't 
slip.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On June 26, 2018 at 10:10 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I've had it suggested to me that I get #4 or #2 pan head philips screws 
> on the underside of the vinyl/rubber rub rail.
> 
> I've never done it and just keep black sharpie marks... When those fade, 
> I have visual indexes on the couch roof.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S /V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jun 26, 2018, 4:13 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Just curious, what do listers use for labels to locate 
> where the Travelift slings go?  Right now, I just wrap some yellow tape on 
> the toe rail and then remove it after splash.
> > 
> > I've seen all manner of permanent labels. I thought about drilling 
> > and tapping the toe rail for a set of these but the first time a snatch 
> > block hits it.well.  And I think they are too long to fit between the 
> > holes.
> > 
> > http://www.buckwoodcraft.com/boat-sling-labels.html
> > 
> > I'd prefer not to put a decal on the paint.
> > 
> > Dennis C.
> > Touche' 35-1 #83
> > Mandeville, LA
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List DARK SIDE

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Thoughts on PHRF:
There are a few PHRF rated boats that seem to defy their rating and sail much 
faster. My New Jersey fleet had a J28, a cruiser with a rating 171, similar to 
a J24, but with longer waterline and bigger sails. Our rating was 99 and we had 
better upwind speed, but In many light air races he stayed right with us. We 
had to beat him by more than 5 minutes to keep our place. That J28 should have 
had a rating adjustment, but never did.

Now I race on Chesapeake Bay and do distance races; we start at one YC and 
finish at another. The entire race can be 80 to 100% downwind, so spinnakers 
are a must, but I'm racing solo, so I suffer w wing and wing and take pictures.

PHRF can be frustrating. I believe the ratings are fair if the races are 
triangular and if they occur in all the different wind speeds. Average a series 
of six races in six different wind speeds. In reality, the summer gives you six 
races in no wind to 8 knots, so boats rarely ever achieve hullspeed, and 
lightweight racers dominate the results. I don't pretend to know any answer to 
this rating problem. I'm just sharing that around here, races have too little 
wind to race or we are lucky to get under 8 knots, or it's blowing 30 w small 
craft warnings, half the entries are DNS and half of the starters are DNF 
because of breakage.


> On June 25, 2018 at 10:48 AM Francois Rivard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yep I hear you on that.  
> 
> There's a few Catalina 27's on my lake too with phrfs ranging from 198 
> -213.  The 198 phrf boat is said to be an ex national champion with the 
> hull's gelcoat ground-off to save weight.. 
> 
> He's good sailor (British chap), had fresh sails,  was a tough nut to 
> crack, especially in light winds.  He didn't outpoint us, but in corrected 
> time our 102 phrf meant that we had to finish a country mile ahead of 'em to 
> beat 'em. 
> 
> We did beat 'em and won the season but it was really close pretty much 
> every Wed nite, we had great time trading jabs and became friends.. 
> 
> Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
> 
 
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Stus-List Mast shoe wood shims

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi guys,

Two of the eight wooden shims that sit in the aluminum shoe to hold the mast 
foot in position, were rotted, so I fabricated new ones.  I chose teak because 
I had some thick scraps that matched.  Now I'm wondering if I should seal them. 


I have Cetol, Watco oil, or West system epoxy to choose from.  Not sure which 
would be the best.   


Chuck Scheaffer

Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md___

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Re: Stus-List Outhaul replacement, C 37/40+

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

FWIW, The outhaul on my 1989 34R is 1/8" SS wire about eight feet long, thimble 
both ends and in good shape. Inside the boom is a four to one purchase made of 
two fiddle blocks for 7/16" StaSet that exits at the gooseneck and comes back 
to the clutches and winches. I rarely need the winch to tension this line, and 
I think it's OEM.


> On June 12, 2018 at 6:16 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I replaced the sheaves with ones made by zepherwerks.  They were made for 
> 1/2 but I only run 3/8th.  I'd go smaller but the hand and the winches 
> complain.  I no longer have any wire rope on board.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jun 12, 2018, 4:59 PM bwhitmore via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Thanks Josh!
> > 
> > Quick related question.  The existing line appears to be 7/16 
> > leading to 1/8 wire somewhere in the boom.  Did you change out the sheive, 
> > and/or will 7/16 line fit?  It seems like it might as my reef lines are 
> > 7/16.
> > 
> > Thanks for all your insights,
> > 
> > Bruce Whitmore 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> > 
> >  Original message 
> > From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > Date: 6/11/18 10:34 PM (GMT-05:00)
> > To: C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com >
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Outhaul replacement, C 37/40+
> > 
> > Bruce,
> > 
> > I did a core to core eye splice which I simply attach to the 
> > d-shackle which you have shown in the picture.  I attach it to the D not 
> > the pin effectively keeping the clew and the eye of the outhaul tied 
> > together.  You could also use an additional soft shackle to directly attach 
> > the eye to the clew.
> > 
> > While you are at it you might consider adding a purchase system to 
> > your outhaul.  I added a 4:1 internal to the boom and now I can adjust the 
> > outhaul under almost all wind conditions.  I also added a 2:1 to the first 
> > reef.  It is amazing how much easier it is to make adjustments and reef.  I 
> > didn't have enough boom length to accommodate any form of purchase on the 
> > 2nd reef but since there is so much less sail it doesn't make too much 
> > difference.  In order to create a fixed point for my purchase systems I 
> > worked with a local fab shop to make a becket for the triple turning block 
> > in the mast end of the boom.  You can see the block in the link below but 
> > the picture is prior to the addition of the becket.
> > 
> > 
> > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydWx5N3FISk5JWUU/view?usp=drivesdk
> > 
> > Josh Muckley 
> > S/V Sea Hawk 
> > 1989 C 37+
> > Solomons, MD 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > On Mon, Jun 11, 2018, 10:07 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
> > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > Hello all,
> > > 
> > > Our outhaul is faded and ready for replacement.  Currently, 
> > > it is comprised of Sta-Set braided to wire, and the wire is then formed 
> > > around a small thimble as it attaches to a car in the slot on the boom.  
> > > A photo can be found here:  Outhaul.jpg. 
> > > https://www.dropbox.com/s/pdejeakqehyl885/Outhaul.jpg?dl=0
> > > 
> > > Outhaul.jpg
> > > 
> > > Shared with Dropbox 
> > > https://www.dropbox.com/s/pdejeakqehyl885/Outhaul.jpg?dl=0
> > > 
> > > I'd like to just go with a decent line and avoid the whole 
> > > splice, thimble & nicopress fitting idea.  I should have enough room for 
> > > a simple knot and still have enough travel.  But, I need to convert the 
> > > attachment to the sliding car.  I'm thinking, however, that if I tie a 
> > > 3/8 or 7/16" line to a larger shackle, it may apply too much sideways 
> > > pull on the hole in the car.Has anyone else dealt with this on a C 
> > > 37/40+ with a similar boom & wire rope setup? 
> > > 
> > > By the way, I really like the Novabraid Argus or NE Ropes VPC 
> > > due to the "nubby" cover that grabs nicely in my clutches.  The current 
> > > clutch slips slightly on my very old and tired outhaul, but I'm not sure 
> > > a Argus or VPC to wire braid is either possible or even desirable.
> > > 
> > > Thanks for the advice!
> > >  
> > > Bruce Whitmore
> > > 1994 C 37/40+
> > > Madeira Beach, FL
> > > (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> > > bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> > > ___
> > > 
> > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your 
> > > contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want 
> > > to 

Re: Stus-List Mast damage

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

The dent seems awfully small to me and sounds cosmetic.
I doubt a dent with a depth of 3mm counts for much. That's about an 1/8". The 
mast wall is probably that thick. And the size of 5cm (2") by 3cm (1 3/16") 
seems very superficial. Several feet above the gooseneck. If there aren't too 
many halyard exits nearby, I'd sail with it as-is or fill and fair it using 
West System. Another option: drill a 1/2" hole in the opposite side of the mast 
and get a nice strong steel punch, grind the tip into a nice rounded blunt end 
and peen out the dent from inside. Fill and fair.

Then finish off with a BoatUS sticker. Go sailing.

FWIW, I once bought a brand new Cape Dory 22 in 1981 and it was delivered to 
the dealer with a dented mast. The dent was three times what you described. 
Demand for the model was high and I was told I could wait six weeks for the 
next one, but I went ahead and signed papers and took delivery the next week. 
We had a blast with that boat for five years and drove her hard, sometimes 
underwater offshore, (she was only 22 feet long) and never ever had a worry 
about the mast. We saw that dent just above the jib halyard winch every time we 
raised the headsail, but never questioned the integrity of the rig. I sold the 
boat and the new owner drove her even harder off the coast of Maine and loved 
her and wrote me a nice thankyou letter never once asked about the dent that 
was as big as your hand.

> On June 12, 2018 at 2:30 PM M Bodnar via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>
>
>
> Discovered over the weekend that my mast blew off the rack at the boat
> yard over the winter.  Landed on a lower level rack and dented the side
> of my mast - several feet above the gooseneck. Dent is maybe 5cm long
> and 3cm wide - max depth of about 3mm.
>
> Met with insurance surveyor today - he is suggesting a few options -
> weld aluminum to the side of the mast, cut mast and install a sleeve,
> find a used CS 30 mast or similar and replace or replace with a new
> mast.  Apparently the sleeve option would cause a stiff spot in the mast
> and make it harder to trim well for racing (which I don't do - but don't
> want to devalue the boat in the repair).  Not sure about the weld
> option.  No immediately available used CS 30 masts locally.
>
> Insurance has a set upper limit of $22500 on the boat - so write off is
> a possibility if they can't repair or find a used option.
>
> Anyone have any experience? Advice? Know of any random CS 30 masts lying
> around???
>
>
> Mark
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List C Rescue Committee finds

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Wow, they look like amazing buys.  Shocking.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


> On June 11, 2018 at 5:38 PM "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> https://easternshore.craigslist.org/boa/d/1979-cc-30/6589132460.html
> 
> 1979 C 30 - $1500 (Cape Charles, VA) hide this posting unhide 
> © craigslist - Map data © OpenStreetMap
> Marina Road
> condition: fair 
> length overall (LOA): 29 
> make / manufacturer: C and C 
> model name / number: C and C 
> propulsion type: sail 
> year manufactured: 1979 
> QR Code Link to This Post
> Very nice fin keel spade rudder Chesapeake Bay cruising boat. Sturdy and nice 
> sailing boat. Project boat as she was neglected a while
> 
> https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-35-mark/6564737295.html
> 
> C 35 (Mark 1) 1973 - $5900 (Galesville
> 
> This boat is a wonderful sailing, racing and cruising yacht. Draft 5.25 
> Westerbeke 4-60 diesel need a lot of work, new fuel tank not installed, new 
> sails, no cushions, roller furling and lots of parts. Perfect sailboat to 
> live on!
> 
> https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/boa/d/cc-34-sailboat-to-good-home/6610648149.html
> 
> C 34 sailboat to good home - $1000 (Podickory Point
> 
> Mid-1980's vintage C yachts 34 foot classic sloop. Helping parents sell the 
> family boat after several years of non-use. 2nd owner and the boat was 
> purchased in fairly new condition in the late 80's. All documents and title. 
> Interior cushions have been lovingly stored indoors to help the process of 
> getting the boat livable again. With some cosmetic repair and engine work 
> this boat could be a great opportunity for a new family looking to ease into 
> boat ownership. Please call Phil (son) and I can put you in touch with the 
> owner/s if it seems to be a good match.
> 
> 
> I suspect the coming decade will see a lot more of this with boats of all 
> kinds. Florida already seems overrun with half-dead boats.
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> C 35 MK I
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Recovering a hoisted furler swivel

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Nice trick. Thanks.


> On June 2, 2018 at 2:36 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> 
> Recently, my furler swivel got inadvertently hoisted to the masthead 
> (sans sail).  Used a simple technique to retrieve it with having to go aloft. 
> 
> Fortunately, Touche's spinnaker halyard blocks are above the fore stay.  
> See:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvseTdEWEFuYjlMVFU
> 
> I clipped the middle of a long line in a spin halyard snap shackle, put 
> one end of the line over the fore stay and hoisted the line.  The shackle 
> passed above the swivel, leaving an end of the line on either side of the 
> swivel.  I grabbed the two ends and simply pulled the swivel down.
> 
> If your wing halyards aren't above the forestay, it would probably be 
> possible to use this technique and flip one end of the line over the swivel 
> once it's hoisted.  
> 
> Saves a trip up the mast.
> 
> Dennis C.
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Genoa to furler snap shackles

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

FWIW, My Harken MkIII top swivel can not get clear of the feeder unless I 
remove the SS feeder, lower the swivel, and reinstall the feeder to allow me to 
feed the luff tape into the groove.  No problem at the dock but difficult on a 
pitching foredeck. 


If the wind picks up so much I need to change the headsail, I usually furl the 
headsail and sail with just the main.  I blade it out with halyard, cunningham, 
outhaul, backstay, vang, and mainsheet. 



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On May 19, 2018 at 9:45 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Those look like they'll work fine.  If you're not using a swivel shackle 
> the only thing that you have to pay attention to is the potential for 
> twisting of the sail foot.  That's never been a problem for me since I'm not 
> racing.  I can take the time to raise the sail and then attach the tack once 
> a clear and straight line can be seen.  I love the engineering and 
> consideration that goes into Selden products.
> 
> How often are you changing sails on your furler?
> If you are racing and need to do quick sail changes why rig the furler at 
> all?  Couldn't you just leave the swivel at the bottom?  Attach the head 
> directly to the halyard and the tack would be attached to the normal location 
> on the furler drum.  I'm pretty sure most furlers will still give access to 
> both furler grooves with the swivel down.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> On Sat, May 19, 2018, 5:54 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > Aries is due to splash on Monday and spring projects are 
> mostly done.  One thing I have not yet done is replace the standard shackles 
> on the Harken furler top and bottom units with snap shackles to make head and 
> tack attachment during sail change easier.  I have been looking at shackles 
> to decide what to use and the standard seems to be swivel snap shackles.  
> However, I also came across these non-swivel snap shackles that are much less 
> expensive and seem like they might be suitable. My question is whether there 
> is any need to use a swivel shackle in this application?  Since the drum at 
> the top and bottom can both rotate, I can’t see why you would need a swivel 
> on the shackle itself.  I was thinking about something like these and would 
> appreciate the group's thoughts:
> > 
> > 
> > https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C2259973%7C2260013%7C2260026=1943639
> >  
> > https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C2259973%7C2260013%7C2260026=1943639
> > 
> > or 
> > 
> > https://www.mauriprosailing.com/us/product/SEL40604001R.html
> > 
> > Aries
> > 1990 C 34+
> > New London, CT
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > ___
> 
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> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Genoa to furler snap shackles

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

You got me thinking.  I prefer the Selden product if you go this route.   
Superior engineering.  


I like the security of shackles, though I always dread losing one of the pins.  
I keep the pins secured with a stout bit of twine.  I'd have to tape the snap 
shackles to ensure they don't open at some critical moment. 


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On May 19, 2018 at 6:53 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Aries is due to splash on Monday and spring projects are mostly done.  
> One thing I have not yet done is replace the standard shackles on the Harken 
> furler top and bottom units with snap shackles to make head and tack 
> attachment during sail change easier.  I have been looking at shackles to 
> decide what to use and the standard seems to be swivel snap shackles.  
> However, I also came across these non-swivel snap shackles that are much less 
> expensive and seem like they might be suitable. My question is whether there 
> is any need to use a swivel shackle in this application?  Since the drum at 
> the top and bottom can both rotate, I can’t see why you would need a swivel 
> on the shackle itself.  I was thinking about something like these and would 
> appreciate the group's thoughts:
> 
> 
> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C2259973%7C2260013%7C2260026=1943639
>  
> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C2259973%7C2260013%7C2260026=1943639
> 
> or 
> 
> https://www.mauriprosailing.com/us/product/SEL40604001R.html
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 


 

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] tri-color masthead light

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Me too.  I use a spin halyard and haul it higher with a light downhaul I keep 
rigged and let it light the coachroof and deck.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On May 9, 2018 at 10:43 AM "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> 
> Just to reinforce the power boaters never look up thing, when anchored in 
> an active area, I always display an all around white light near deck level in 
> addition to the white all around on the masthead.  I use one of these draped 
> over the boom:
> 
> 
> https://store.marinebeam.com/utility-led-anchor-light-w-dusk-to-dawn-photocell-fx-ml-01/
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 9:13 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > You can use it *under sail only* and *only by itself*.
> > 
> > I never use mine in the Bay. I used to use it, but after about the 
> > 5th time I almost got run over and yelled at for having no lights, I 
> > discovered powerboaters  do NOT look up. 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > > ___
> 
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> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List tri-color masthead light

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Thanks,

I like having the strobe as a way of differentiating my boat.  It's for 
emergency use only.  I like having it in case I'm not being seen by another 
vessel, I can flip it on until they get a bearing on me and then turn it off.  
Or if I call for assistance, it can visually mark my boat as the one needing 
help.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On May 9, 2018 at 9:27 AM David via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Tri colors primary purpose is for offshore use. When coastal their height 
> limits their usefulness. People are looking around the horizon for lights not 
> 30 to 60 feet in the air when coastal. Never have tricolor on and deck 
> running lights on at the same time. Nor have a tricolor on and steaming light 
> on at the same time. Never use an anchor light unless you're anchored.  And 
> it's my understanding that there was no real purpose first strobe other than 
> confusing the observer. 
> 
> Get Outlook for Android https://aka.ms/ghei36
> 
> 
> -
> From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Joel Aronson 
> via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 9, 2018 9:10:17 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joel Aronson
> Subject: Re: Stus-List tri-color masthead light
>  
> Chuck you are correct that you can use one or the other but not both. I 
> prefer to use the deck lights in the bay because it is easier to judge 
> distance. Offshore are use the masthead so the lights are visible for a 
> greater distance and in the swells  Chuck you are correct that you can use 
> one or the other but not both. I prefer to use the deck lights in the bay 
> because it is easier to judge distance. Offshore are use the masthead so the 
> lights are visible for a greater distance and in the swells 
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 9:01 AM Chuck S via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > Anyone know the regs on using Masthead Tri-Color lights.   Just 
> > want to do what's right on my boat this summer on Chesapeake Bay.  I 
> > believe you can use either but never both deck lights and the masthead 
> > tri-color.  Also thought I read that the masthead tri-color was intended 
> > for offshore and not allowed inshore so I may never use it.  
> > 
> > 
> > Chuck
> > Resolute
> > 1990 C 34R
> > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> 


 

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Stus-List tri-color masthead light

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Anyone know the regs on using Masthead Tri-Color lights.   Just want to do 
what's right on my boat this summer on Chesapeake Bay.  I believe you can use 
either but never both deck lights and the masthead tri-color.  Also thought I 
read that the masthead tri-color was intended for offshore and not allowed 
inshore so I may never use it.  


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md___

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Re: Stus-List TV antenna

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Wow. That antenna looks nice. Does this replace my VHF antenna. Same coax cable?
Yes, please send me price .


> On May 8, 2018 at 11:02 AM Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Chuck — take a look at the new smaller Shakespeare HDTV marine antenna: 
> http://shakespeare-ce.com/marine/product/3004-seawatch-hdtv-antenna/
> 
> Definitely smaller than the old “UFO” style TV antennas; it’s amplified, 
> and needs 12VDC to operate.  But with the 30dB gain and getting it up high, 
> you’d have very good reception.  Let me know if you’d like me to price one 
> for you.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> 
> 
> 
>     > > On May 7, 2018, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Hey guys,
> > 
> > 
> > I am rewiring the mast and lighting and VHF antenna and wonder if I 
> > should pull in a TV antenna cable?  Does anyone have one that works well?  
> > I get 35 channels with a leaf antenna I lay on the deck, but it sometimes 
> > pixelates just when the comedian says the punchline.  Can be frustrating.
> > 
> > 
> > Chuck
> > Resolute
> > 1990 C 34R
> > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> > 
> > > 
> 
 

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> 
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> 
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List TV antenna

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

I am near Baltimore and as I stated earlier,  "I get 35 channels with a leaf 
antenna I lay on the deck, but it sometimes pixelates just when the comedian 
says the punchline.  Can be frustrating."  I was wondering if a mast mounted TV 
antenna was worth the trouble.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On May 7, 2018 at 10:11 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Chuck,
> 
> Maybe it’s because we are so close to NYC, but I know a few people who 
> have those $20-$30 HDTV antennas that stick to a hatch. They work well for 
> them. 
> 
> All the best, 
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, New Yorkhttp://www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone X
>     iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> 
> On May 7, 2018, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> I am rewiring the mast and lighting and VHF antenna and wonder if I 
> should pull in a TV antenna cable?  Does anyone have one that works well?  I 
> get 35 channels with a leaf antenna I lay on the deck, but it sometimes 
> pixelates just when the comedian says the punchline.  Can be frustrating.
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 


 

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Stus-List TV antenna

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hey guys,


I am rewiring the mast and lighting and VHF antenna and wonder if I should pull 
in a TV antenna cable?  Does anyone have one that works well?  I get 35 
channels with a leaf antenna I lay on the deck, but it sometimes pixelates just 
when the comedian says the punchline.  Can be frustrating.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md___

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Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Responding late to the discussion. My mast is out so I am replacing all the 
light fixtures and wiring and selected MarineBeam's Anchor 
Light/tri-color/Strobe Combo that works with two wires. 
https://store.marinebeam.com/smart-led-tri-color-anchor-light-and-strobe-n3-tri-cmb/
I tested the light and it is very very bright and works just like they claim 
and the strobe flashes S-O-S. Lots of features for $109 and it seems very well 
made. We'll see how it holds up.

Replaced the VHF antenna wire too.


> On May 7, 2018 at 1:34 PM Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks.
> Still thinking a white anchor light, but you reflect my experience, at 
> the last minute I started thinking just change it out.
> 
> Matt
> 
> 
> > > On May 7, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Francois Rivard 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > Hi Matt, 
> > 
> > When I took my mast down I took a good look at the brittle dried-up 
> > housing, crazed plastic lens, and iffy led conversion on the existing unit 
> > and threw it in the trash.  I replaced it with the SignalMate tricolor 
> > (https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-anchor-2-wire/)
> > 
> > They claim it's made to mil specs... I believe it.  It's completely 
> > sealed, the machining and anodizing on the housing is beautiful, and the 
> > lens is nice and thick.  
> > 
> > It's pricey but to me, worth every penny as it is completely 
> > "install it and forget it".  Living in Georgia my mast does not come down 
> > very often so no maintenance is a big plus. As a bonus it's by far the 
> > brightest mast light on the lake, I consider it cheap insurance against 
> > drunken pontoon pilots.  
> > 
> > Good luck with the project. 
> > 
> > Best Regards, 
> > 
> > -Francois Rivard
> > 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> > Lake Lanier, GA
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> 
 

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Re: Stus-List Chainplates

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I see your boat was built in '93 and probably by then C changed methods. Good 
to know.


> On May 6, 2018 at 11:48 AM Brian Fry via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I removed my chainplates this winter and was relieved to find no core 
> material. All solid.
> Yes the flange prevents making an easy fix, you do have to remove the 
> chainplate to get at the material to be removed. On mine, the leaks were more 
> of an issue with the bolts, not the plate. Still haven't replaced the 
> chainplates, I am having stainless ones made. Also haven't concluded which 
> material to use for sealing. I may do butyl on one side and polysulfide on 
> the other to see which holds up best.
> I will say butyl would not cause as much of an issues when removing them 
> the next time as the caulking did this time.
> 
> 
> --
> Brian Fry
> S/V La Neige
> 1993 C 37/40XL
> HdG Maryland
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Sealing Chainplates

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Love the before photos. Did you take any of the fix?


> On May 5, 2018 at 11:30 AM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Same.  The deck on my 1972 30 MK I is cored.  The offseason before last I 
> removed the chainplates, dug out a good half-inch of core around the cutout, 
> and refilled with epoxy with the chainplate in place, making a tight-fitting 
> epoxy “donut” around the cutout and chainplate (of course I used a releasing 
> agent - carmex - so the epoxy wasn’t stuck to the chainplate).  That was all 
> on the advice of Mr. Dennis Cheuvront.  Then I resealed them per Don Casey’s 
> instructions.  Pictures at 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTcTV6UlEwMmlqZkk.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> 
> 
> > > On May 5, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > As a data point for others, the chainplate cut-out on my 1982 37’ 
> > goes through cored deck. Josh’s concern is correctly placed.
> > 
> > Best,
> > Dave Godwin
> > 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> > Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> > Ronin’s Overdue Refit http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/
> > 
> > 
> > > > > On May 5, 2018, at 10:44 AM, Josh Muckley via 
> > CnC-List  wrote:
> > > 
> > > I think the most correct way is to remove the chain plate and 
> > > then rebed.  I'd be torn between using butyl and 4200.  You can support 
> > > the mast with a halyard if desired.
> > > 
> > > First, you might find is useful to determine if it is the 
> > > machine screws/bolts or the flange specifically.  A little tightening of 
> > > the bolt, a small addition of 4200, a wrap of butyl, or some Capt Tully's 
> > > Creeping Crack cure may be enough if it is just a loose bolt.  You should 
> > > also figure out if the deck area is cored.  If not cored the leak will be 
> > > rather innocuous for quite some time - go sailing.
> > > 
> > > Josh Muckley
> > > S/V Sea Hawk 
> > > 1989 C 37+
> > > Solomons, MD
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> 
 

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> 
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> 
 
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Stus-List Sealing Chainplates

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

What's the best way to seal leaky chainplates at the deck.  The boats built 
after 1988 have a welded flange that makes it hard to get caulk inside the 
joint without removing the whole assembly.



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md___

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Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I know of one lightning strike that happened when a boat was on the hard at the 
same boatyard. The boat was a Bristol 54 I think, very well built and heavily 
bonded and protected for a lightning strike. It had that little lightning 
dissapator on the top of the mast. All of his electronics were fried, a piece 
of toerail with metal rub strip was blown out, one thru hull was close to the 
ground and showed damage from a lightning exit and was laying on the ground 
afterward. It delayed his planned cruise a month but he made out well, 
insurance got him all new electrics and he had the mast pulled and all rod 
reheaded while the repairs were done by the yard. My 34R was thirty feet away 
but the lightning hit his mast and instead of mine cause his was higher and I 
am convinced his boat was also a stronger target because he kept his power cord 
connected, grounding everything to earth ground.

I never leave a power cord connected to my boat when away from my boat for 
several reasons, this being one of them. I charge my batteries when I'm there 
and unplug before leaving. I do use a heatpump AC unit but don't have 
refrigeration so it's worked for me so far.


> On May 4, 2018 at 4:56 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> ABYC makes no specific prescriptions regarding lighting.  As such there 
> is no one "right" way.  One train of thought is to bring the top of the mast 
> to the same potential and the water, effectively drawing lightning to the 
> boat.  Under this methodology you are really proving protection to the 
> occupants.  In order to fully protect you need to ground the shrouds and life 
> line stanchions to so that side stikes don't impact the occupants.  
> Unfortunately this may actually be making the boat more likely to get hit and 
> in our cases blow holes in the hull and sink the boat.  All of this is the 
> same way lightning rods are supposed to work.  The real problem with this 
> methodology is that 1 million volts is difficult to deal with.  The gauge of 
> wire, the bend radius, corrosion, resistance of lead/epoxy/bottom paint, all 
> dictate the path which the lightning chooses to travel and of course remember 
> that it has already traveled multiple miles through a near perfect insulator.
> 
> The other methodology is to insulate the mast from the water so that it 
> is no more likely to be struck.  This leaves the occupants unprotected but 
> ensures that no holes are created.  It may also make a strike less likely.
> 
> As for the stock lightning protection on the 37/40, 37+.  It is/was 
> deplorable.  A 6 gauge wire is bolted to the step (not the mast) and then 
> attched to the forward most keel bolt.  The attachment is in the form of a 
> 1/4-20 bolt welded at the head to one of the washers under the keel bolt nut. 
>  The ground wire has a terminal crimped on and fitted to the 1/4-20 with a  
> nut.  The original wire was not tinned copper and not protected from water 
> intrusion.  To the best of my knowledge my boat has never been struck.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> On Fri, May 4, 2018, 11:29 AM Alan Liles via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > I'm wondering about grounding for lightning protection 
> with an epoxy coated keel. Isn't that why the mast is connected, electrically 
> to the keel. I've had lightning strike very close, which aroused my interest 
> in avoidance of being hit
> > 
> > Al Liles
> > SV Elendil
> > C 37/40+
> > Vancouver 
> > 
> > 
> > On May 3, 2018, at 3:02 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > > > > Josh is on track.  I just helped fix a 
> > "smile" on a 35-2.   Sanded to bare lead then quickly applied epoxy with a 
> > 3M scrub pad with vigorous rubbing.  Minimizes the oxidation and promotes a 
> > good bond.  Once you get the epoxy on the lead then you can apply barrier 
> > coat, paint, fairing, whatever.
> > > 
> > > Dennis C.
> > > Touche' 35-1 #83
> > > Mandeville, LA
> > > 
> > > On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 4:35 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> > >  wrote:
> > > 
> > > > > > > I believe West Systems suggests scrubbing epoxy 
> > > into the metal with a wire brush or a scrubby pad.  Anytime an epoxy 
> > > coating is applied (west systems, interprotect, etc) I've been told that 
> > > to ensure proper adhesion between layers you need to apply the next layer 
> > > while the last coating is still soft or tacky.  This includes the first 
> > > coat of bottom paint.
> > > > 
> > > > Josh Muckley 
> > > > S/V Sea Hawk 
> > > > 1989 C 37+
> > > > Solomons, MD 
> > > > 
> 

Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Got my replacement LEDs this year from MarineBeam also. Nice build and 
packaging.
I'll be trying out their new two wire Tricolor/anchor/strobe this season and a 
steaming/decklight combo too.


> On April 25, 2018 at 4:27 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Charlie,
> 
> I bought the following from Marine Beam and just put them into the 
> existing lights.  There are two types of retrofit LED's I used, one type is 
> just Warm White, the other switches between Red and Warm White.  Absolutely 
> no changes to the existing lights required, no wiring changes either, just 
> put them in and they work  Very nice light form them too.
> 
> 23-LED CONSTELLATION MATRIX FOR DOME LIGHTS (UN-DOME-23-WW)
> SKU: BA-1156-23X-WW
> * Base Type:  Single-Contact (BA15s)
> 
> 
> https://store.marinebeam.com/23-led-constellation-matrix-for-dome-lights-un-dome-23-ww/
> 
> 
> RED/WHITE "SWITCHABLE" LED FOR DOME LIGHTS (UN-DOME-15-RWW)
> SKU: UN-DOME-15-RWW 
> Base Type: Single-Contact (BA15s)
> 
> 
> https://store.marinebeam.com/red-white-switchable-led-for-dome-lights-un-dome-15-rww/
> 
> 
> We've had them for 4 or 5 years now, absolutely no issues.
> 
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
> 
> 
> On 25 April 2018 at 13:47, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > I need to replace all the cabin lights/fixtures on my 
> 36XL/kcb and am thinking of a white/red combo LED for all 0r some of them.
> >  
> > I mostly race her so the lights don't get used very often. I want 
> > to get something that is relatively inexpensive, will not
> > rust/tarnish (forget about the traditional brass stuff) and most 
> > importantly will work reliably after long periods of no use.
> > They probably will be powered by the house 12V--I tried battery 
> > operated (in the housing) and these were a total waste of money
> > since the batteries corroded faster than they lost their charge!
> >  
> > I am talking about forward and aft cabin lights (~ 6 total) which 
> > mount to the ceiling with built in switches for on-off and white/red.
> > The housings on these will be exposed--visible so that 'ribbon' 
> > type LEDs are out.
> >  
> > In the main cabin, I need 4 that will be mounted under the 
> > 'shelves' and thus the housings are not important. I also need 2 that
> > would be mounted in the forward cabin corners for reading and 2 in 
> > the 'ceiling', all of which would be exposed so the housing is important.
> >  
> > I thought I might go with one source for consistency and maybe save 
> > some money. 
> >  
> > I am looking for suggestions from the list before I decide.
> >  
> > Thanks in advance, 
> >  
> > Charlie Nelson
> > 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> > Water Phantom
> >  
> >  
> >  
> > cenel...@aol.com mailto:cenel...@aol.com
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> ___
> 
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> 
 
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Re: Stus-List LED Cabin Lighting

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,
I bought one of those puck light packs 5 or 6 years ago and use them often. I 
put them in the pilot berths and inside cubbies and the engine compartment. The 
batteries last the season or two if rarely used. I use them as night lights or 
stumble lights when we watch TV.
I keep a larger version in my ice box which turns off automatically after a 
preset time. I remember I found it in Walmart as a closet light for $6.


> On April 25, 2018 at 5:29 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> At BJ’s wholesale club I noticed a pack of 8 LED battery operated puck 
> lights with velcro stick on mounts and a remote control that regulated which 
> were on and brightness.  The whole thing was under $20.  I was very tempted 
> and may yet do it even though I already have LED’s.  I am sure I would find a 
> use for them.  Dave
> 
> Dr. David Knecht
> Professor , Department of Molecular and Cell Biology 
> University of Connecticut
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> U-3125
> Storrs, CT 06269-3125
> 860-486-2200
> 
> 
> > > On Apr 25, 2018, at 4:33 PM, Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > I found some 12 v emergency lights at a Restore for $6 each. They 
> > didn't have an incorporated switch so that cost another $5 for a small 
> > rocker switch from a local electronics store, then replaced the bulb with 
> > an LED I got on e-Bay for peanuts (from China). Cheap and works great.
> > 
> > Cheers, J-G 
> > Callisto, 35 Mk2
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> 
 

> ___
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> 
 
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Re: Stus-List Deck painting

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I need to paint my deck too and I'm not so crazy about Perfection as it is a 
two part paint and the flattening agent is another two part additive making it 
a tedious process. You have to mix four chemicals to get one paint to apply. 
I've seen decks painted with single part Briteside and it's single part 
flattening agent and think that's how I'll go. It's easier to touch up too, 
which is another reason why I prefer it.

My favorite color is Pearl White (has a slight yellow in it) deck +w a Flag 
Blue hull, but my hull is a smoke white so Matterhorn or even Off White may be 
best for me. It's hard to pick by the color chart, but you can better imagine 
how it will look by taking the color chart to a marina and comparing the colors 
to actual boats you like. Snow White is super bright white.

I like the Kiwi Grip reviews and hope to use that too.

3M scrubbing sponges work well on curved surfaces. A sponge with sandpaper 
underneath. Orbital sander for the flats.

> On April 23, 2018 at 5:47 PM Mike Rose via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>
>
> Hi there-
>
> I am planning to paint the deck and have few questions for those that have 
> gone before me. I plan to use Perfection with Kiwigrip. I did a sample locker 
> lid with Snow White Perfection and White KiwiGrip. The Perfection is a bit 
> too white/reflective. I’d rather use a different shade of white over a 
> flattening agent. Here goes the questions.
>
> 1- what shade of perfection is preferred for the smooth deck surfaces?
> 2- is there a recommended approach if I need to divide the effort between two 
> off-seasons (ie side decks and cabin one year, cockpit the next)
> 3- what sanding tool is best for the curves and corners?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike Rose
> s/v Shannon Rose
> 1972 C 39
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Cabin top grab-rail removal/refasten 30' MK1

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

On my boat the grab rails are matched sets.  The outside grab rails have long 
(3 or 4 inches long) screws that attach to nuts on the inner grab rails.  The 
two sandwich the cabin roof in between.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On April 15, 2018 at 12:56 PM Chris Hobson via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> 
> With the cabin headliner on my 1980 30’ MK1 being one solid piece, there 
> are no accessible bolts for the cabin top grab rail. I’m sure I could figure 
> out how to remove the grab rail but without a bolt to hold the underside to 
> tighten it back up I’m a bit lost. Does anyone know how how I’d refasten one 
> of these to the cabin top?
> 
> I suppose one way to find out would be to cross my fingers remove the 
> grab rails, and have look around.
> 
> Thanks
> Chris
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Stus-List Replacing top section of Harken Furler

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Anyone ever take apart a Harken MkIII Furler? 

I installed mine by myself ten years ago and now want to replace the damaged 
top section while the mast is out.  The stay is rod so I'll have to pull all 
the sections off from the bottom to get to the top one.   I am worried the 
parts won't come apart very easily.  I'm worried about all the Loctite adhesive 
used between sections and bearings and if I need to use a heat gun to separate 
parts?  Maybe I'm overthinking this.  Any tips would be appreciated.


Thanks,

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md___

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Re: Stus-List Building a hard bimini - part 1

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Looks good so far. Can't wait to see the final


> On April 11, 2018 at 3:53 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I started building the hard bimini with the FRP panels from Home Depot 
> after speaking to the guys at Jamestown Distributors.
> 
> Day 1
> 
> assembled the bits - MAS epoxy, 2x6s sheet of plywood, foam core, glass 
> cloth,  and 2 4x8 sheets of FRP panel from Home Depot to use as skins.
> 
> Took a 2x6 to the boat and clamped it to the existing frame and marked 
> the curve. Realized that a 2x6 was not wide enough.
> Cut the 2x6, screwed 'extensions' on the end so they were 2x12, clamped 
> it to the rail. Cut the rest of the curve. Verified that the 2 bows had the 
> same curve and repeated the process.
> 
> Then came the evil FRP. It has a bubble finish on one side that needed to 
> be sanded. This stuff is hard as a rock and creates a fine white powder that 
> goes everywhere. You MUST wear a mask! It also consumes sandpaper. I got 
> frustrated with 80 grit, so tried 60. 80 was marginally better. Did the 
> sanding on the garage floor. Spent more time on my knees than a cheap hooker.
> 
> Set aside the FRP and screwed the sheet of plywood to the 2x6s to get the 
> shape.
> 
> Realized I was short of foam, so I cut about a 48 x 5 inch piece of 1/4 
> inch PVC sheet.  MAS sticks to PVC, unlike West.
> 
> 
> 
> Day 2 - part 1. Trimmed the excess off to get the size to its proper size 
> 48 by 76.
> Cut G10 into squares for the attachment points as recommended by 
> Jamestown distributors.
> Cut holed in the foam core sheets for the G10 to fit in. Measured 
> distance from the edges.
> 
> Did the layup of bottom FRP panel, glass cloth and foam.  Epoxied in the 
> G10.
> 
> Will add more epoxy, cloth and the top FRP panel tomorrow night.  
> 
> Right now it is fairly flexible.  I'm hoping it stiffens as I go.  The 
> good news is that if my measurements are slightly off it won't matter.
> 
> Photos of intial work:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1jQwPE06SOaWaLx-EAU-yQpnJv5BP0UwU?usp=sharing
> 
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Spring Projects

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hadn't hauled the last two years so I have a rather long list. It's like a 
refit:

Rewire the mast, changed all lights to LED (mast is out)
Replace sheeves and axles
Replace upper section of furler
Removed all halyards and washed, scrubbed and soaked in Downy to soften them.
Replace two halyards, repurpose old ones
Paint mast
Replace spreader tip protectors
Repair two floor boards at home
Replace two solar fans
Heavy wet sand old bottom paint to change type, paint new
Pull chainplates and Repair wet core
Replace windows (just finished making templates)
Paint deck and paint nonskid areas with Kiwi Grip
PoliGlow the topsides
Relaunch, step the mast, tune the rig, etc


> On April 3, 2018 at 1:16 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Now that April is finally here, I was curious as to what you have planned 
> for your Spring projects.
> 
> On the Enterprise:
> 
> 1. Remove and service hydraulic autopilot pump 
> 2. Re-vinyl Starfleet markings
> 3. Service Refrigeration
> 4. Install new hot water heater
> 5. Paint bottom
> 
> … and if you’re down south somewhere and have been in the water and 
> sailing already, I hate you.   
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
 

> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List New Sheets - What kind of line?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Agree with Dennis. Soft shackles don't release on their own though I've only 
used them for the headsails for three continuous years. My genoa sheets are 
both red, 3/8" maxibraid, after my last genoa was impaled by the spreader when 
a very experienced and knowledgeable person crewing for me failed to lift his 
foot off of the sheet when we tacked. I was trying to tack but instead we "hove 
to". And I had to pay to repair the rip in the leech of my racing genoa. It's 
moot now that I mostly singlehand.

Singlehanding is very cool.
No arguments of any kind with crew and no one reminds me later about some 
screwup I made long ago. I've made them and learned from them. But some crew 
love to share their "total recall" memories just to beat down others. Miss the 
comraderie, but not the bullshit. Anyway, try solo. It's zen like.


> On March 22, 2018 at 2:40 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> 
> My opinion, soft shackle release is highly unlikely.  I've never heard of 
> one.  Been using them for 4-5 years now.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 1:29 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > Hi Dennis
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Your soft shackle sheet connection looks very interesting.  I 
> > wonder if a flogging sail during a messy tack might result in a soft 
> > shackle releasing.  Any thoughts?
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Thanks
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Mike
> > 
> > Persistence
> > 
> > Halifax
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> ___
> 
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> 
 
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Re: Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Meant to add, the Home Depot sheeting is smooth on one side and pebbled on the 
other and you don't have to paint it.


> On March 16, 2018 at 11:47 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm going to try to build a hard bimini.  The plan is to trace the shape 
> of the frame onto pieces of 2x6, cut them to shape and then screw a piece of 
> cheap plywood to the 2x6s to have the right shape.  I'm looking for something 
> flexible that will give the underside a nice smooth finish than can be 
> expoyed to fiberglass and painted.  The rest will be glass mat, foam core, 
> epoxy, more mat etc.  I know I could just add more epoxy and sand it, but I 
> rather avoid all that labor.
> 
> Any suggestions on materials for the finished underside?  
> 
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Home Depot sells a fiberglass sheet 4' x 8' and you could use that to make the 
finished side. It's less than 1/8" thick so you can bend it pretty easy. Comes 
in White or Ivory. There are Youtube videos that show some results.


> On March 16, 2018 at 11:47 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm going to try to build a hard bimini.  The plan is to trace the shape 
> of the frame onto pieces of 2x6, cut them to shape and then screw a piece of 
> cheap plywood to the 2x6s to have the right shape.  I'm looking for something 
> flexible that will give the underside a nice smooth finish than can be 
> expoyed to fiberglass and painted.  The rest will be glass mat, foam core, 
> epoxy, more mat etc.  I know I could just add more epoxy and sand it, but I 
> rather avoid all that labor.
> 
> Any suggestions on materials for the finished underside?  
> 
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Problems on launch

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I took a tip from a Don Casey book and changed my intake ell to a tee.
That let's me do a few things. I can rig up a hose and run the engine while on 
stands and that let's me test run the engine and transmission before the 
travellift pickup. I also can winterize easily in or out of the water. I can 
also check the intake in the water by closing the seacock, pulling a plug and 
opening the seacock. If water gushes in, it's clear. If not, I can stick a long 
wooden spoon handle thru it to clear it. Never had to do that, but it's nice to 
have that option. Casey recommends changing all thruhull ells to tees for this 
reason.


> On March 10, 2018 at 3:20 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> 
> Launched Touche' after haul out few years ago.  Same thing.  No water 
> from exhaust.  Assigned slip was only 100 feet or so from Travelift bay.  Got 
> it into slip quickly and shut engine down.
> 
> Intake valve was open.  Strainer was clear.  More investigation 
> discovered blockage in the intake thru hull.  Had to clear it by removing 
> hose from inlet valve and back flushing with dock water pressure.  Never saw 
> what the blockage was.  Could have been a mud dauber nest.  I asked the 
> contractor if they ever blocked the thru hulls for any reason.  Said never.
> 
> Now I check each thru hull before launch.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> 
> On Sat, Mar 10, 2018 at 1:55 PM, robert via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > I estimate the time TW was launched to the time we got 
> aboard (I boarded with the contractor) maybe 25 minutes.so if someone can 
> do the calculation with a 1" hole with water being forced in, that is how 
> much water entered the boat.
> > 
> > I am surprised that this wasn't detected on launch.  Our boats are 
> > on cradles that get lowered into the water on a marine railway.the yard 
> > staff usually submerge the hull until all thru hulls are underway but not 
> > enough for the boat to move on the cradlethen someone goes below (owner 
> > in my case,yard staff or contractor) and checks everything out, 
> > specifically the thru hulls to ensure something like this does not happen.  
> > If there is a problem detected, they can pull the boat without lining it up 
> > on the cradle.
> > 
> > Never happened in this case!
> > 
> > One year when we were launching AZURA, the boat was submerged but 
> > not yet floating off the cradle.that's when I start the engine and 
> > check the thru hullswhen I come back up, yard staff tell me to stop the 
> > engineno water coming out...boat hauled back out...check thru hull 
> > intake for blockageall clear...in-take hose is transparent and looks 
> > clear.back in the waterstart engineno water...shut it down.  
> > Yard manager getting frustrated with mestart engine third time, no 
> > water.take a hard look into the engine compartmentraw water 
> > strainer still has antifreeze in ithmmm, think...reached in and tighten 
> > the two wing nuts on the cap of the raw water strainer.it was sucking 
> > in air and not water.   I didn't tighten it in the Fall when I drained it 
> > and filled with antifreeze.
> > 
> > Rob Abbott
> > AZURA
> > C 32 -84
> > Halifax, N.S. 
> > 
> > > ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Backing plate decision

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I think a backing plate is needed.

I would use G-10 or make my own fiberglass backing plate because I have the 
material.

Another option if you don't have anything;  Azek.  Pick a short length of 1 x 4 
trim.  It's easy to cut, waterproof, no painting or sealing required.  It's 
white and it's light.  Cuts like pine.  Add some fender washers to all the 
fasteners and you can really spread the load well.  


Word to the wise:

All horizontal surfaces on my boat are cored, yours may be solid glass, maybe 
not, so be ready to deal with that in the normal manner.   You determine the 
final location for the hardware and mark it.  Then you overbore the hole to at 
least twice the fastener size.  If you use 1/4" drill holes to 1/2" or if your 
using 5/16" fasteners drill holes to 5/8", or even larger, fill these holes 
with an initial layer of clear epoxy then epoxy and filler like West Systems 
404 high density filler.  I simply put heavy duty clear mailing tape underneath 
the hole and fill from above using whatever I have to remove bubbles, Q-tips 
work well for this.   The idea is to create an epoxy sleeve through the deck to 
seal the balsa core, bond the two skins, and also prevent the fasteners 
crushing the deck.   That's why I use 404. 



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On February 23, 2018 at 12:47 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I'm installing a downrigger to catch big salmon.  There is an existing 
> aluminum plate aft of the spinnaker winch that I'm removing and replacing 
> with a larger one.  I plan to use the same hole pattern so I don't need to 
> drill new holes.  The original plate had no backing on the underside. Not 
> sure what it's purpose was. 
> 
> Looking for some input:
> 1. Is a backing plate needed?  The nearby winches don't have any backing 
> other than washers.
> 2. what should I use as the backing plate?  Marine plywood?  Would normal 
> plywood be okay?  Getting aluminum made to exactly fit there would be a 
> challenge I think.  With wood I could craft it at the boat for an exact fit.  
>  
> 
> Some links to pics:
> Original plate from top: https://flic.kr/p/24BK3KM
> Backing/underside: https://flic.kr/p/Gu1cqL
> Nearby Winch underside w/o backing plate: https://flic.kr/p/EXCp5P
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jeremy
>  C 34-1 #041 
>   Vancouver BC
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List PSS Shaft Seal

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Brien,

Have to share this. I don't know what the previous owner used in my 1990 shaft 
seal. It does leak slightly when I first launch and when running, but not after 
the engine stops. I've owned the boat fifteen years since 2002 and never 
tightened the packing. No, I won't take it apart.

I guess it is one of the newer packing materials.

> On February 16, 2018 at 9:05 PM Brien Sadler via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>
>
>
> Has anyone changed to a PSS dripless stuffing box? I’m sold on the switch I 
> just haven’t figured out how I’m going to run the vent line yet. Any 
> suggestions would be great. Preliminary plan is to run it to a very small 
> through hull at the top of the transom.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brien
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

My two cents,

I had the Martec Folding Eliptic on our boat from 2002 to 2007. I had a few 
close calls when it wouldn't open. These may have been my inexperience with a 
large boat. It seemed like I needed to put it in reverse at four boat lengths 
from the dock to get it to stop reliably in my slip. I had many doubts about 
the folding prop at the time, but I've since learned better boathandling skills 
and learned to respect the design.

I did much research at the time and learned most racers use this prop because 
it has the least drag. My Martec prop was on it's last legs and well worn. To 
replace it, I chose a MaxProp two blade feathering prop. That was eleven years 
ago. I am happy with it, as it is quicker to deploy and stops quicker and the 
gearing maintains balance. I think it is more forgiving and reliable. I do 
align the coupling before a race so the blades are vertical, because of the 
angled shaft, that gives me the least drag. People who cruise more than race, 
buy the three blade version for better grip in bad weather. Our two blade (size 
determined by Pyacht) does lose grip in strong (twenty five knots plus) 
headwinds and boat speed suffers down to 5 or 4.5 knots.

I made blade alignment fairly easy on my 34R. I painted the coupling and 
transmission white, so you simply open the rear panel of the engine compartment 
and turn the coupling by hand until a black line on the coupling lines up with 
a black line on the transmission and the blades of the prop will be vertical. 
The friction of the wax seal holds it for the race or a long cruise.

In hindsight, if I had a healthy Martec Folding Eliptic, I would use it, and 
get the rebuilds, but when time came to replace it, I would probably do what I 
did before and get a geared feathering prop, especially if I planned to motor 
for long periods or cruise. The geared prop gives instant response but is 
slightly more drag and twice the cost, so maybe not for everyone.


> On February 16, 2018 at 1:25 PM Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I also have the original Martec Eliptic on my 38-3. No vibration, hull 
> speed at 2400 RPM, and in reverse, you have to think ahead. 
> 
> To align the blade, I installed a cheap fleabay car backup camera 
> connected to the video input of my chartplotter (Zeus Touch). With paint mark 
> on the tranny and cuppling, easy to align. It also give me view on the 
> engine, stuffing box and bilge when motoring for prolonged period.
> 
> 
> Pierre TremblayAvalanche #54988
> 
> C WK, hull #76
> 
> 
> 
> Le ‎vendredi‎, ‎16‎ ‎février‎ ‎2018‎ ‎11‎:‎53‎:‎09‎ ‎Est, Gary Russell 
> via CnC-List  a écrit :
> 
> 
> I have to provide the dissenting opinion on the Martec prop.  Many years 
> ago, I had to make a quick stop when two kids in a dinghy came out of a 
> mooring field in front of me.  In order not to hit them I slammed the boat in 
> reverse.  Being not  geared, one of the blades did not open.  The resulting 
> imbalance ( at full power) bent the shaft severely.  The resulting 1/2" run 
> out created incredible vibration.  The shaft and prop had to be removed for 
> repair.  I would never use a folding prop that isn't geared.  I currently use 
> a 3 blade Flex-O-Fold prop which has very good reviews and I'm happy with it.
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
> On Fri, Feb 16, 2018 at 9:54 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > My LF38 came with a 2 blade Martec Eliptec (LH18DX14P-3 1-1/8), and 
> > I agree with others that the performance is surprising good.   Yes I often 
> > forget/neglect to align the blades, and I have experienced the boat shake 
> > on a rare occasions.  Performance wise, forward to hull speed is no problem 
> > in flat water, but like others, I cruise at about 6.5 with a lower rpm 
> > (Yanmar 3QM30/Paragon/Walter-Vee).  With regards to backing/stopping, I 
> > have not hit anything (harder than willing) yet. I do get some starboard 
> > prop walk which I try to take advantage of, but it is nothing compared to 
> > the walk of my old 29Mk1 w/ a fixed 2 bladed prop. 
> > 
> > 
> > -
> > Paul E.
> > 1981 C 38 Landfall 
> > S/V Johanna Rose
> > Fort Walton Beach, FL
> > 
> > http://svjohannarose.blogspot. com/ 
> > http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> > 
> > 
> > > > > On Feb 15, 2018, at 10:32 PM, 
> > cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> > > 
> > > My Martec runs very smoothly with a couple small harmonics at 
> > > different
> > > rpm's.  That's normal for nearly all drive trains.
> > > 
> > > Forward power is good.  I think my prop is a wee bit 
> > > underpitched.  I can
> > > get hull speed with a 

Re: Stus-List Sail Changeover for 29 Mk1

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Francois,

Thanks for a very thorough response.  I learn from your observations, always.   
We need to get together for a double handed race n the Chesapeake.


Jim,

younger crew are harder and harder to find.  My all-time best crew of 2012 went 
to college and graduated and one is a sales rep for Doyle Sails in Florida, 
another works in NYC in IT, and another is an officer with NOAA stationed in 
Hawaii.   My own son is doing IT in a startup in Las Vegas.


I live and work in NJ and I'm 63 and race solo on a C 34R out of Magothy 
River without crew, no arguments, no worries, I love the experiences without 
any negatives.  I haven't won anything but I'm having fun doing the distance 
races to Baltimore or Annapolis out and back.


You should consider sailing solo or even two handed.  Join CHESSS at 
www.chbaysss.org


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On February 7, 2018 at 5:00 PM Francois Rivard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I sail a 34+, not a 29 but here's what I was told by my sail maker who 
> was the guy beat in the phrf cruiser class for many years on the lake.  
> 
> For what it's worth: 
> 
> For racing in light wind conditions (10 and under) , especially beer can 
> racing the 150 - 155 gennies are gold, you get great power accelerating the 
> boat away from the cans. 
> 
> That has certainly been our experience.  Our 150 was literally a game 
> changer on Wednesday nights, worth far more than the phrf adjustment.  The 
> added straight line talent more than offsets the reduced pointing and added 
> time for tacks.  
> 
> Easy way to see when to change / or pick another sail to start with? If 
> you see white caps ->  use the 135.  
> 
> 
> If not racing  / just cruising around we use the 135 unless it's really 
> light like 5-6 knots or less.  We use it because we have it..  If I was not 
> racing I could definitely get by on the 135 only.  
> 
> my 2 cents. 
> 
> Best regards, 
> 
> Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Adding asym sail/sprit to C 36

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Eric,

Will PHRF allow you two ratings? One with the sprit and one with the pole? I'm 
considering adding a sprit and top down furler for single handed races.


> On January 31, 2018 at 10:47 AM Eric Baumes via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> That is in place of a standard spin and pole. If you declare both Asym on 
> sprit and Symmetrical on pole you will get a PHRF penalty.
> 
> Eric
> 
> On Wed, Jan 31, 2018 at 8:24 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > Hi Eric
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > When you say YRALIS allows 24% with no penalty is that in addition 
> > to a standard spin pole and Symmetric spinnaker or in place of the standard 
> > pole/spin?
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Mike
> > 
> > Persistence
> > 
> > Halifax
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> > mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Eric Baumes via CnC-List
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2018 8:32 PM
> > To: cnc-list
> > Cc: Eric Baumes
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Adding asym sail/sprit to C 36
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Hi, 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > I did this a few years ago on my 34/36+ Brief write up here 
> > http://svheesoo.com/content/bowsprint-retro-fit-project 
> > http://svheesoo.com/content/bowsprint-retro-fit-project
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Here is the pertinent information on sizing.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > PHRF Regulations
> > 
> > The YRALIS allows for a retrofit bowsprit to be 24% of J without 
> > penalty for Windward/Leward racing. For distance racing it asseses a -6 
> > second penalty.
> > 
> > To support an unsupported length of ~52 inches, the Selden Selden 
> > 99mm Aluminum Bowsprit Kit - 10.4 Ft. was required. The 52 inches is 
> > comprised of the 42 in beyond the forestay allowed by PHRF plus the forward 
> > ring was mounted approximately 10" behind the forestay on the deck.
> > 
> > If you have the same Harken furler and bow roller there is just 
> > enough room.
> > 
> > This is something you can DIY.
> > 
> > The uncut sprit was just over the limit for UPS so I had them cut 
> > it to avoid the freight charge.
> > 
> > Let me know if you have any questions.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Eric 
> > 
> > 1993 34/36+
> > 
> > Hee Soo
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > On Tue, Jan 30, 2018 at 7:20 PM, Charles Nelson via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > Difficulties in finding enough crew to fly my masthead kite (~7-8) 
> > have me thinking of adding a sprit with asym kite to make it possible to be 
> > competitive in the spin fleet with less crew (~ 4-6). I only had   6 for 
> > our last race and the wind was 10-15 so we decided to forego the kite and 
> > took a 1st, 2nd and 3rd (only 3 boats competed). This weekend I am down to 
> > only 4 so probably won't compete, giving up a solid 2nd with a poss 1st if 
> > my crew were not in the BVI, etc. My thoughts are solely to have the option 
> > to use the asym if I don't have enough crew to do the symm Masthead kite so 
> > I would likely keep the asym size such that my rating is not changed. 
> > Thoughts on this plan from the list would be appreciated.
> > I do realize that this is a complicated issue and I may have to get 
> > some expert advice on sprit length, asym sail size/shape not to mention 
> > figuring out how to fly it but I am starting with the collective list 
> > wisdom.
> > Thanks,
> > Charlie Nelson
> > 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> > (Rob Ball design)
> > Water Phantom
> > 
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 

Re: Stus-List Hydraulic Octopus Pump Repair (Northeast USA)

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

Suggest you take the pump and ram cylinders to a local hydraulics shop that 
works on back hoes, loaders and heavy equip.  It probably just needs new 
O-rings. 


I had a leaking seal on the backstay ram and another on the remote pump and the 
repair quote from a Navtec dealer for $750 with many disclaimers.  Took it to a 
local shop and they did the job for less than $15.  Said the O-rings cost them 
fifty cents each and there were only a few in each unit.   I had them bench 
test it to 4000# using their fluid and test gage and we let that sit for half 
an hour while I toured their little shop.  They have milling machines and drill 
presses and lathes and can make any part out of metal.  The pressure never 
dropped I was satisfied.  Don't know why they didn't charge me a minimum labor 
fee but they said it was the first sailboat system they had ever seen and asked 
me to spread the word.  I tipped them $20 for doughnuts and coffee.  No 
problems for 9 years now.


I would ask around for hydraulic repair shops near you and ask heavy equipment 
rental companies, "Who does your hydraulic repairs?"


Don't know who works there now or what they would charge now, but the company 
was:

Cam Co, 1310 Havana Ave, Egg Harbor City, NJ 08215, 609-965-3766


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On January 27, 2018 at 10:49 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Anyone know of a good company in the Northeast USA that can repair an old 
> Octopus hydraulic pump? I’d rather not ship it to Canada. 
> 
> All the best, 
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, New Yorkhttp://www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone X
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> 


 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 144, Issue 46

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I noticed 15 years ago that every sailboat in every boatyard that races has a 
folding or feathering  prop.  Half of the cruisers have em too.  I enjoy my two 
blade MaxProp.  I followed the dealer's advice and set it up myself to his 
specs.  The second year I made an adjustment to get a higher RPM and stick to 
those settings.  It works great.  I even marked the transmission and the 
coupling so I can line up the two blades so they are in prayer format and stay 
closed.  It's part of the fun.  You gotta love it.



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On January 15, 2018 at 9:02 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Ted,
> 
> While it is true the original poster did not like their J Prop at all, 
> they did not state why except to say they lost 2 knots over the fixed prop 
> they had replaced.  That indicates to me they did not know how to properly 
> adjust the pitch of their prop, which is odd, as it is so simple to do with a 
> J Prop.  They may have had an unusual installation, perhaps a very large gear 
> reduction so a very slow turning prop, I suppose.
> 
> The original poster then went into a lengthy discussion as to why any 
> type of folding or feathering propellor on a sail boat was a waste of money.  
> To each their own I suppose.
> 
> Ken H.
> 
> 
> On 13 January 2018 at 21:57, Ted Drossos via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: cnc-list-request  > mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com >
> > To: cnc-list 
> > Sent: Sat, Jan 13, 2018 7:36 pm
> > Subject: Prop for 37/40+
> > 
> > The quote from "Maine Sail" that Ken included in his post was part 
> > of a discussion on Sailnet. The original Sailnet poster was very unhappy 
> > with their J Prop. Here is a link to that discussion. 
> > 
> > http://www.sailnet.com/forums/general-discussion-sailing-related/224938-pros-cons-folding-propellers-avoid-j-props.html
> >  
> > http://www.sailnet.com/forums/general-discussion-sailing-related/224938-pros-cons-folding-propellers-avoid-j-props.html
> > There are variables that might make one prop someone's favorite 
> > while another user might have a completely different opinion. Maine Sail 
> > really disliked his Flex-O-Fold while many people including me loved it. 
> > His complaint was primarily vibration which he stated in another thread on 
> > Sailboatowners. The diameter of the prop shaft,  the distance the shaft 
> > extends past the strut and the prop to hull clearance could have 
> > contributed to his discontent. There are so many variables that it's 
> > difficult to say definitely which prop would work best on any given boat 
> > unless you are comparing identical boats.
> > 
> > Ted Drossos
> > C 110
> > s/v Lady in Red
> > Long Island, NY
> > *
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing for Liveaboard in the North Atlantic

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Great method. Great video. Thanks.


> On December 5, 2017 at 10:57 AM Dan via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I've posted a new DIY video of how I used Vapour Barrier to cover the 
> boat for winter this year (in the water) - I have a pretty nice green house 
> going on right now, should be able to sit out in January with my coffee and 
> maybe even grow some tomatoes? :)
> 
> https://youtu.be/_n4Ii1-aZ34
> 
> Dan
> S/V Breakaweigh (Balachandra)
> C
> Halifax, NS
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List C 37R

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,


Truth be told, I fell in love with the 37/40+ 16 years ago when I was boatless 
and saw them on Yachtworld.   I later found the 34/36 model and Stu's brochures 
which led me to checkout a boat that  I couldn't afford one lunchtime.  The 
following year, several things changed and I bought that boat.   I've owned her 
now for 15 years and looking back I learned a hell of a lot, mostly through 
this list or the hard way.  


I wouldn't mind owning a 37/40, more room, easier motion in a seaway perhaps, 
that centerline queensized bed.  No offense, I just prefer what I have, what I 
know.



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On December 1, 2017 at 12:48 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Chuck,
> 
> FWIW, my wife and I have each single handed our 37+ (37/40).  It isn't 
> "easy" but certainly doable.  I would tell a prospective buyer that they 
> shouldn't go overboard and expect all the luxuries of land but a few extra 
> feet will probably not be regretted.  If they made a 44+ I would buy 
> itand then dream of the 51'...haha.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
>     Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Nov 28, 2017, 6:55 PM Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > Hey Dave,
> > 
> > Found this list of 37/40 boats.  Great resource, but I prefer the 
> > smaller sister, Rob Ball's last and most advanced design; the 34/36 model.  
> > He did the 37/40 in '88 and the 51' and 34/36 in '89.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/a-list-of-known-c-3740-boat-name.html
> > 
> > 
> > FYI, there were only 94 hulls made of the 34/36 model, 9 R's and 
> > the rest cruising plus and XL models with at least three different rig 
> > options.  There are many boats ready for sale that aren't listed, boats 
> > waiting for a new owner.  The key questions are "Where are you located, 
> > where will you sail, how many people can you get to crew.  A 37/40 needs a 
> > large crew, while I can singlehand my 34/36.  Just sayin.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Chuck
> > Resolute
> > 1990 C 34R
> > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> > 
> > > > > On November 27, 2017 at 1:18 PM Pamela & David via 
> > CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > 
> > > Hello
> > > 
> > > Looking at a boat, (partially dismantle) but I can not figure 
> > > where the fuel tank & fresh water tank are located.  
> > > Some of the interior is missing.  Any help is appreciated ( 
> > > if you have an interior drawing/kink) would be great
> > > 
> > > David
> > > ___
> > > 
> > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your 
> > > contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to 
> > > support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
> > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List C 35 mkiii mainsheet set up

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I also appreciate the need for good mainsheet systems.  I changed the system on 
Resolute twice before I settled on the present 5:1/20:1 system.  It involved 
moving the traveller from behind the pedestal to in front of it.  I found the 
6:1 purchase was hard to release when loaded up.  So I added a 4:1 double ended 
fine tune and lowered the traveller to the cockpit floor.  This change allowed 
me to drop a pulley and shorten the mainsheet length 20 feet.


If I had the traveller on the coach roof like the 35 MkIII, which uses three 
blocks on the boom to spread the load, I'd set it up for singlehanding by 
keeping the present purchase and take the aft end of the purchase back to a 
block on the boom end (you'll need to add a Bail and a block) and install a 
fine tune between that and a padeye through bolted to the cockpit floor right 
in front of the pedestal.   This would give you the ability to ease the main 
from the helm when hard on the wind, so you can turn around the windward mark, 
or simply play the main in gusty conditions.   You'll need to replace the 
mainsheet with longer line to do any of these things.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On December 1, 2017 at 12:22 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The only problem he is going to run into is that it is mid point boom 
> attachment.  He would have to figure out how/where to run a second control 
> line back to the cockpit.
> 
> On Fri, Dec 1, 2017, 10:47 AM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > I had a similar setup and changed it 6:1/3:1 using 
> Garhauer special double block on the traveller. This gives you great speed, 
> when you need it and more purchase when you need that. Also freed one clutch 
> on the cabin top and does not require a winch, at all.
> >  
> > Picture: https://1drv.ms/i/s!At7BtDHoAfRtnW_Jd3QNxRcyGIRs 
> > https://1drv.ms/i/s!At7BtDHoAfRtnW_Jd3QNxRcyGIRs
> >  
> > Marek
> > 1994 C270 “Legato”
> > Ottawa, ON
> >  
> > From: steve dewar via CnC-List
> > Sent: Friday, December 1, 2017 08:45
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: steve dewar
> > Subject: Stus-List C 35 mkiii mainsheet set up
> >  
> >  
> > Presently, my mainsheet is a double block on cabin traveller, thru 
> > two blocks to the mast, down to another block, thru a stopper and finally 
> > to a self tailer winch. Being used to handling a main on 16 cat , I am used 
> > to a main sheet that is more responsive! I am thinking of changing up to a 
> > triple block with cam cleat on the cabin traveller. Does anyone see issues 
> > with this? Or is this a case of small boat thinking on a big boat set up? 
> > Thanks Steve
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   
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Re: Stus-List Solar vent batteries

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Solar Fans are great. Better than opening ports cause the induce air changes 
when there is no wind. I installed four in my 36 footer in 2007.

FYI, I recently replaced batteries in my Nicro solar fans and one actually 
became quieter. You can't tell it's running. The other, no work at all. Just 
sayin. I need to take time to remove the working battery and put it the other 
fan to prove the fan may be shot.

I replaced my ICP solar fans that stopped working, That comoany went out of 
business. I ordered Marinco Solar Fans and regret it. They are so obnoxiously 
tall, they will catch sheets and I have to fabricate new rings of PVC Foamboard 
to defend that or convert to Nicro units. I'm still working on options.


> On November 28, 2017 at 8:18 PM Jim Watts via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm using Energizer NiMH, get 3-4 years. Winters here are brutal for lack 
> of sunlight.
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
> On 27 November 2017 at 18:39, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > If the OEM was NiMH then I think you need to stay with 
> that since it is what the charge circuit is designed for.  As for best brand? 
> - I have no idea.  I'd probably settle for Amazon best reviews and lowest 
> price.
> > 
> > Josh Muckley
> > S/V Sea Hawk
> > 1989 C 37+
> > Solomons, MD 
> > 
> > On Nov 27, 2017 7:04 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > > > > I need to replace the C cell battery in 
> > Touche's solar vent.  Is there a brand that seems to outperform others?  
> > Tenergy, Nuon, others?  I think the old one was a Nuon brand.  It lasted 3 
> > years.
> > > 
> > > Is NiMH the best option?
> > > 
> > > Dennis C.
> > > Touche' 35-1 #83
> > > Mandeville, LA
> > > 
> > > ___
> > > 
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> > > contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want 
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> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > > 
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> > 
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> > 
> > 
> > > 
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Re: Stus-List C 37R

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hey Dave,

Found this list of 37/40 boats.  Great resource, but I prefer the smaller 
sister, Rob Ball's last and most advanced design; the 34/36 model.  He did the 
37/40 in '88 and the 51' and 34/36 in '89.


http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/a-list-of-known-c-3740-boat-name.html


FYI, there were only 94 hulls made of the 34/36 model, 9 R's and the rest 
cruising plus and XL models with at least three different rig options.  There 
are many boats ready for sale that aren't listed, boats waiting for a new 
owner.  The key questions are "Where are you located, where will you sail, how 
many people can you get to crew.  A 37/40 needs a large crew, while I can 
singlehand my 34/36.  Just sayin.



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On November 27, 2017 at 1:18 PM Pamela & David via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello
> 
> Looking at a boat, (partially dismantle) but I can not figure where the 
> fuel tank & fresh water tank are located.  
> Some of the interior is missing.  Any help is appreciated ( if you have 
> an interior drawing/kink) would be great
> 
> David
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Split in keel.

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Looked at your photo and it looks like the split is fairing material, not the 
real keel.  I always follow Dennis' advice, BTW.  He's tops.  I suggest you 
sand/grind fairing down to solid stuff and fill with a waterproof material.  
Fair and repaint.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On November 28, 2017 at 11:56 AM Brien Sadler via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I recently discovered this split in the trailing edge of my keel (photo 
> provided via google drive link below). It looks as though  the split has 
> exposed the lead of the keel. The rest of the keel looks fine. No evidence of 
> any water intrusion of any kind in the keel to stub joint. No C smile at 
> all. Has anyone seen anything like this or had to make this repair on their 
> boat. This is my first season with her and I'd rather not get into a super 
> expensive keel repair if I don't have to. My thoughts were inject with epoxy, 
> cover with glass mat, sand, fair, and repaint. Any thoughts or advice would 
> be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzW7COeyzYvZRTY5VFNtQWRlLUgtUnFianBxUmpOQXYtYThV
> 
> Brien Sadler
> 1987 C 35-3
> Norwich, CT
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Check stays for baby stay?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I'll bite since I have owned a 34R now for 15 years with runners and 
checkstays. They are a PITA. So is a Baby Stay and that's why you won't find 
them on modern designs. Baby Stays went out of vogue in the 80's with most 
designers except C who kept them longer than anyone else. To be honest, I 
bought my boat because it had runners and checkstays and I wanted to learn all 
I could about making a sailboat go fast. I don't regret it.

Runners and Checkstays make a difference but I wouldn't add them to an existing 
design. They complicate the mast with so many anchor points and the deck too, 
requiring another set of winches or heavy duty purchases. Research has shown me 
that the forces on the runner block and deck anchor point are close to the 
breaking strength of the backstay. This requires large expensive blocks and 
beefy anchor points on deck w heavy backing plates to spread the loads properly.

Harken has some great spreadsheets on this but if memory serves, my "end of 
boom" mainsheet load is around 600# max. I have a 5:1 course with a 20:1 fine 
tune. The halyards are 1500# max. The genoa sheet is about the same1500 to 
2000#. The #3 jib sheet in 40 knots of wind is 3000# plus. While the runner is 
closer to 1#.

BTW, the highest load for running gear for a typical sloop is the #3 jib sheet 
in high winds. The highest load for a sailboat with a bowsprit will be the 
bobstay, which is many times higher than the backstay. It's all physics.


> On November 1, 2017 at 3:34 PM jacob fuerst via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Furthering the baby stay thread, has anyone considered replacing the baby 
> stay with check stays? Still controls the mast pump, more versatile, 
> adjustable from the cockpit, and it gets the baby stay out of they way. I 
> could be way off base here. Thoughts?
> 
> Jacob Fuerst
> 303-520-4669
> Ventura, CA
> '78 C 36
> ___
> 
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Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Fred,


I checked the drawings for the 34 and see the baby stay is far in front of the 
keel.  I suspect the bolt should be attached to a stringer also. 
http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1794


That's how it is on my 34R.  On my boat they welded a stainless stud to a 
stainless bracket that is thru bolted to a stringer.   A short piece of rod 
carries the load from the track down to the hull stringer.


I suggest you pull up the floor around the hole and look in there?


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, M___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
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Re: Stus-List Deal on starter from Mastry

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

The PO of our boat had the glow plug button separated from the start button 
when I got it. The Universal manual for the engine shows them in series, 
meaning you'd have to hold both to start the engine so it was Universal's 
design, not C's.


> On September 12, 2017 at 12:49 AM "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> On my Universal, it was the solenoid; took dozens of button pushes.  Then 
> it did it again a year later, only not nearly as bad.  The mechanic rewired 
> so the starter button and glow plugs were no longer interconnected.  The 
> voltage drop caused by the glow plug was the culprit apparently.  Now I let 
> up the glow plug and hit the starter and it seems to work fine.
> Mechanic didn't think it should ever have been wired so that the glow 
> plug had to be pushed for the starter button to function.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: Dennis C. 
> Sent: Monday, September 11, 2017 10:33 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Deal on starter from Mastry
> 
> Francois gave you some good things to look at.  My first shot would be a 
> dirty start button/switch.  I'd try jumping across the back of the switch.
> 
> As for starters, boat on my pier had a Volvo diesel.  Starter went bad.  
> Volvo starter was north of $700.  Lo and behold, it uses the same starter as 
> a Mitsubishi Lancer which can be bought for less than $100.  
> 
> As it turned about, it wasn't the starter.  I ended up with the old 
> starter if anybody out there has a Volvo (or a Lancer) and needs a spare.  
> It's been tested.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> 
 

> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
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Re: Stus-List Perko sea strainer failed - almost lost my boat!

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

FWIW, My boat's engine strainer is a glass walled strainer with wingnuts. It is 
located high up in the engine compartment and I believe the top is at the 
waterline.


> On September 11, 2017 at 1:51 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Patrick,
> 
> Yes that's the unit.  The bolt with the wing nut failed.  The result was 
> the equivalent of a 2 inch hole in the boat.  That's 80 gallons per minute.  
> Luckily, I have a large bilge!
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 1:04 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > Yikes. Is it a Perko like this one?  
> http://www.perko.com/images/catalog/product/xl/Fig%200493%20(Top%20On).jpg 
> http://www.perko.com/images/catalog/product/xl/Fig%200493%20(Top%20On).jpg
> > 
> > I'm having a hard time visualizing how a single bolt failure could 
> > result in a hole big enough to outpace a 800 gph pump. 
> > 
> > Sounds like one of the wing nut bolts broke, but the other one was 
> > still holding the lid torqued partially in place? Seems like a poor design. 
> > The Groco design is nice because there's no way a threaded lid could 
> > spontaneously fail - 
> > https://fisheriessupply.scene7.com/is/image/FisheriesSupply/129443-groco-gro-arg-750-s-strainer-al1
> >  
> > https://fisheriessupply.scene7.com/is/image/FisheriesSupply/129443-groco-gro-arg-750-s-strainer-al1
> > 
> > Scary that it failed randomly rather than when you would expect a 
> > corroded bolt to break (while torqueing the bolts during filter cleaning). 
> > 
> > On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 7:59 AM,  > mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > >  Forwarded message --
> From: Joel Aronson  mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com >
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> 
> Cc: 
> Bcc: 
> Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2017 10:24:34 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Perko sea strainer failed - almost lost my 
> boat!
> Yesterday as we were sailing back to the dock one of my crew 
> yelled 'there's a lot of water down here'.  I opened the companionway steps 
> and saw water coming out of the top of the sea strainer as the water was 
> reaching the top of it.
> 
> I closed the seacock and we manned the manual pump.  Once the 
> water was below the floorboards we let the electric do its job.
> 
> One of the arms that held the lid in place broke at the lower 
> end.  Luckily we were aboard and found the leak.  There was not excessive 
> corrosion on the strainer, so I don't think the weakness could have been 
> detected.  Time to re-think leaving seacocks open when I'm off the boat!
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> 
> 
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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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___

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Re: Stus-List Deal on starter from Mastry

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Before buying a new starter I would try jumping the big terminals on the 
starter with a big screw driver and test the starter. If it fails to jump into 
action or hesitates, there are rebuild shops around that rebuild starters and 
alternators for cars and boats. I had mine rebuilt in 2005 for $75 at a local 
shop. Google it.

If instead, the starter operates when jumped, there is no problem there, I 
would jump the smaller terminals with a screwdriver and see if it pulls in 
reliably.

If no problem there I would clean all of the wiring terminals between the start 
button and the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid gets it's ground through 
the starter mounting to the engine block so clean the ground terminal on the 
engine too. Unmounting the starter, cleaning the mating surfaces and remounting 
may also improve the ground.

Many engines come with a wiring harness with a quick disconnect coupling with 
12 wires in it that can become a problem. Follow the wire from the starter 
button to through this coupling to the solenoid and the positive 12V wire that 
goes from the battery through the coupling to the engine gage panel. Cut them 
out of the coupling and use a separate connection for each to improve the 
circuit voltage. Reroute any wiring that goes through the bilge to keep it dry, 
and not loose voltage to a short to water.


> On September 12, 2017 at 9:02 AM Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> The marine insulated started is usually insulted when the owner finds out 
> the price. :)
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> At 03:50 AM 12/09/2017, you wrote:
> 
> > > Content-Language: en-CA
> > Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
> >  
> > boundary="_000_CY1PR11MB0968EEB56BFB81BA4B3DC59FCE690CY1PR11MB0968namp_"
> > 
> > There is a difference between a marine starter and the non-marine 
> > equivalent. Often the bearing are different and it is differently insulted. 
> > 
> > I suggest reading on Maine Sail's web page.
> > 
> > Marek
> > ___
> > 
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
> > you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> > 
> > > 
 

> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Centerboard pennant

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Charlie,

I'm no expert, but I have replaced my lifelines with dyneema and several other 
running rigging things.  I made a short strop to raise the mainsheet purchase 
up off the traveller car and recently changed the wire in my solid vang to 
dyneema.  I like dyneema because it's so easy to splice.  However, I can also 
cut it with a good knife in one stroke.  I think SS wire is best for a 
centerboard pennant because it is more ressistant to abrasion, harder to cut, 
and therefore more reliable especially out of sight and underwater.  My 2 
cents. 



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On July 7, 2017 at 3:52 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> It is time for me to replace my centerboard pennant--now 6 years old. 
> 
> The yard likes to go with stainless steel wire, which is the same as the 
> original pennant delivered with the boat when new in 1995. 
> 
> I am considering using an equivalent or stronger dyneema line but have a 
> few questions for the list before I proceed. 
> 
> 1. A portion of the pennant is always exposed to the sun--between the aft 
> cabin top winch and the turning blocks which direct the line below thru the 
> SS tubes. How does this portion of the line get protected from the UV? I 
> think a covered line would provide protection but the cover may not fit thru 
> the SS tubes which take the line to the board. Further, the cover on the line 
> should probably not stay in the water below the surface since it is likely 
> not dyneema. 
> 
> 2. The current SS wire is bent in a loop and swaged and led to a winch 
> with a 3:1 purchase.  In the up position, the purchase and winch (and line 
> clutch) hold the board up. When the board is fully extended, it is stopped by 
> a fitting that 'catches' the swage and stops the board at a depth of ~ 7' 3". 
>  At this depth, the leading edge of the board matches the leading edge of the 
> centerboard trunk (and the board is supported against athwartship forces by 
> the trunk).Thus the board is always held by the pennant, whether it is up or 
> down. Without a swage fitting, how will the line hold the board up while it 
> is extended? 
> 
> Hopefully some center-boarders on the list have switched to line and come 
> up with solutions. 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> C 36 XL/kcb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> cenel...@aol.com
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
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Re: Stus-List C 40 question

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

PHRF ratings are one way to judge potential speed. These came from Long Island 
Sound

Redline 41 is rated 120
C 40 standard rig and keel rates 99
C 37/40 rates 66

Each C design improved on speed and interior volume.
The new all carbon Redline 40 rates 18, but not much interior.


My boat is rated 93. We sail that fast and had early success racing among 
average boats off of Atlantic City. Now in the Chesapeake, I'm racing against 
hardcore, experienced crews and the boats are baltoplated and burnished and 
kept in a lift or drysailed from a trailer and the sails are brand spanking 
new. My boat is a mancave. I added air conditioning and a big flat screen TV, 
so I can drive down after work Friday night and turn it on and relax, have a 
cold brew and get a a good nights rest at the dock. We race Sat morning.


> On July 5, 2017 at 3:14 PM "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Now that I think about it, I think the Redline was a 41.
>  
> From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2017 3:03 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Matthew L. Wolford mailto:wolf...@erie.net
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 question
>  
> Yes, I believe the first one was referred to as a Redline 40.
>  
> From: David via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2017 2:47 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: David mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 question
>  
> 1977 through 1984 40.   It is actually a 40-2 as there was a much earlier 
> 40 model.  
>  
>  
>  
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
> Date: 7/5/17 2:23 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: cenel...@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 question
> 
> Is this boat the C 37/40 or a different animal altogether?
>  
> Charlie Nelson
>  
> cenel...@aol.com
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: rshibe via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: rshibe 
> Sent: Wed, Jul 5, 2017 1:49 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 question
> 
> Hey guys our boats also serve as "Man Caves" what better interior than 
> dark wood for a "Man Cave".
> Ray Shibe
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Jul 5, 2017, at 10:40, David via CnC-List  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> 
> > > ...that's why we were not geting all those firsts.
> >  
> > And all this time I blamed the crew...
> >  
> >  
> >  
> > Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
> > 
> > 
> >  Original message 
> > From: rjcasciato via CnC-List  > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > Date: 7/5/17 1:23 PM (GMT-05:00)
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: rjcasciato  > mailto:rjcasci...@comcast.net >
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 question
> > 
> > Great lines, but way too much dark wood below. "less is more" 
> > 
> > With all that weight. it would be hard to sail to her rating...
> > Ron C.
> > Impromptu
> > 38 MK II
> > 1977
> >  
> >  
> >  
> > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> >  
> >  Original message 
> > From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"  > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > Date: 7/5/17 10:30 AM (GMT-05:00)
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  > mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov >
> > Subject: Stus-List C 40 question
> >  
> > 
> > http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/C%26C-Yachts-C%26amp%3BC-40-3102940/Oriental/NC/United-States#.WVz3qmYUk6Y
> >  
> > Has anyone seen this boat?
> > Two things come to mind, one is the bow pulpit looks bent and the 
> > second is outside of cardboard, I cannot image a worse material for a 
> > holding tank then aluminum!
> > YIKES!
> >  
> > Joe Della Barba
> > Coquina
> > C 35 MK I
> > 
> > > 
> > > ___
> > 
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
> > you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> > 
> > > 

Re: Stus-List Hydraulic Hoses - C 37+

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

The Navtec product is high quality but I found they are super expensive.  Years 
ago I had fluid leaking from the top of the Ram cyliner and unable to hold 
pressure for 10 minutes.  Tthe closest Navtec dealer, 2.5 hrs away wanted $750 
to rebuild it and I had to pay up front before they would even look at it.  


I took it to a local hydraulic shop that rebuilds rams for backhoes, forklifts, 
dump trucks and dosers and got mine rebuilt and bench tested to 4000# for $25.  
 To be sure, I asked the manager to setup a test and he pumped the system up to 
4000# and I saw it it holding when I arrived hours later and picked it up.  
They said the leak was caused by simple O-ring failure.  O-rings cost less than 
a dollar, but they advised me to add a plastic washer to the piston rod to 
block the sun's UVs.   They also advised me to change my system's oil from the 
pink stuff the PO was using, probably transmission fluid, to a 10 Weight 
Non-Detergent, and they suggested I buy it from NAPA.  In future I would not 
hesitate to pull any part and take it to a local Ram repair shop.   The 
hydraulic hoses can be replaced for 10% of what Navtec would charge.


A second option:  replace the lot with a cascade pulley system.  The first 
pulley will be the most expensive, but the whole lot will cost about the same 
and you'll be able to double end the system if you want.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On June 5, 2017 at 4:38 PM Ron Ricci via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I had a rigger replace the two hydraulic hoses for the Navtec backstays.  
> The shop he used seems pretty expensive.  Is there anything special about the 
> hoses?  What have others paid for these hoses?
> 
>  
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Ron
> 
> Ron Ricci
> 
> S/V Patriot
> 
> C 37+
> 
> Bristol, RI
> 
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 


 

> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
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Re: Stus-List C 40 for sale

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Just sharing an interesting story about 39) J-105's on Chesapeake Bay that 
converted from shallow draft to 6' 6" deep draft to be more competitive back in 
2003/4.   Both Rob Ball and Robert Perry stated to go as deep as you can for 
best performance.


http://www.j105fleet3.org/files/knowledge/Keel%20Change%20101.pdf


However, I changed my keel from our boat's  original 7' 4" draft to a 6' 3" Rob 
Ball designed keel from Mars Metals back in 2008.   The change made her a 
little more tender initially, but that's better in lighter winds, and I think 
she is less stiff and a little more responsive.   


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On May 30, 2017 at 10:53 PM Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I asked Rob Ball about doing that to my deep draft 40 and he replied 
> something to the effect of, "if I'd thought it was a good idea, I would have 
> designed the boat that way!" 
> I'd love to have a shallower boat, but I'd hate to lose the wonderful way 
> she sails. Sailing wins!
> It's like a fellow who would love it if his wife was calmer, but a 
> lobotomy would take away all the stuff he loves too.
> 
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
> On May 30, 2017, at 21:27, Rick Brass via CnC-List  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> 
> > > 
> > I had the keel on Imzadi reduced from 6’1” to 5’6”, and installed a 
> > torpedo made by Mars Metals. Back when I had it done, the cost was about 
> > $3600. Mars was making the keels for Benneteau in South Carolina, and they 
> > shipped my bulb on the back of a load going to Benneteau so shipping was 
> > cheap. I expect that the same bulb would be more now because lead is more 
> > expensive. Ditto the scrap value of the lead block you cut off.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > We cut the keel with a chainsaw, weighed it and reported the weight 
> > to Mars, they sent me a bulb that fit the profile of the keel and bolted in 
> > place with ½” carriage bolts they supplied. IIRC, the lost keel weighed 850 
> > pounds and the bulb weighed 1150 (or something like that). The boat still 
> > points well and NCPHRF gave me 6 seconds for shortening the keel.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Rick Brass
> > 
> > Washington, NC
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf 
> > Of Bruno Lachance via CnC-List
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2017 4:33 PM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc: Bruno Lachance  > mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com >
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 for sale
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > I saw a few C with draft réductions around here. Mars metal, 
> > who i understand produced the keels for most of our boats, have the 
> > templates, datas and know how to produce a bulb in two sections that you 
> > can bolt to the reduced keel and fair. A kind of DIY kit. You can cut the 
> > keel with a chainsawand they will calculate the weight of the bulb to 
> > compensate for the loss. they should also advise you if you are going too 
> > far, from what i heard they have a good knowledge of our boats.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > https://marskeel.com/ https://marskeel.com/
> > 
> > 
> > MarsKeel |Production Lead Keels for the Sailboat Industry 
> > https://marskeel.com/http://marskeel.com
> > 
> > 
> > For 35 years Mars Keel Technology has united its passion for 
> > sailing & vast technical experience to supply quality keels to builders & 
> > sailors worldwide
> > 
> > 
> > The shipping will be expensive!
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Bruno Lachance
> > 
> > Bécassine, 1987 33 mkII (will splash this thuesday!)
> > New-Richmond, Qc
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > -
> > 
> > De : CnC-List  > mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com > de la part de Danny Haughey via 
> > CnC-List 
> > Envoyé : 30 mai 2017 16:11
> > À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Cc : Danny Haughey
> > Objet : Re: Stus-List C 40 for sale
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > The yard I was at in westport did it on a C 41 I looked at
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > On 5/30/2017 4:10 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:
> > 
> > > > > 
> > > The guy with the 40 for sale in the Rio Dulce did 
> > > it...with success 

Re: Stus-List furling line

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

i do


> On May 29, 2017 at 9:48 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> 
> How many of you have a ratcheting block on your furling line?
> 
> Dennis C.
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List Windows Pt 2.

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Forwarding a message from Rod Desborough;  (Chuck Resolute)


Rod asks:

Have you ordered the new windows - is it possible to get in on the order?
I have two windows on Aurora ,36XL 1995, that need replacement.
Rod Desborough
Halifax, NS




On April 4, 2017 at 12:39 PM Eric Baumes via CnC-List  
wrote:

I spoke to a local fabricator about making the windows. 

We spoke for a while about the curvature of the windows and whether they would 
have to be thermoformed. 

I know the windows curve to match the curve of the cabin top, but are they at 
all curved vertically?

Researching Lexan is seems you can cold bend it as long as the radius is 10x 
the thickness.

For anyone who has done this on a 34/36 or 37/40, were the replacement windows 
flat stock? 

Thanks,

Eric 
S/V Hee Soo
34/36
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Re: Stus-List Bad Race Start Last Night

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

At one point early on when the boat is further out it looks like they are 
motoring. 

They could have anchored to buy time to fix their mainsail, sort things out, 
and wait for a tow, but that needed to be set well outside before they steered 
themselves into the breaker zone.  

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On March 31, 2017 at 4:38 PM Eric Baumes via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> This is the harbour they were trying to get out of or into. One report I 
> read said they were on their way out.
> 
> The boat went under the pier into the triangle area.
> 
> Really scary stuff.
> 
> https://goo.gl/maps/xpKnuNA4GZw
> 
> On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 4:19 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > Watching the "full version" first minute or two, looks 
> like the main's luff was separated from the mast, and the crew was busy 
> gathering up the main and trying to re-feed its luff.  He might have been 
> able to run downwind on starboard tack under jib alone (don't know where that 
> would have led), but then he gybed to port and couldn't make enough way to 
> avoid the pier or not get tripped.
> > 
> > Cheers,
> > Randy
> > 
> > 
> > -
> > From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > To: "CnClist" 
> > Cc: "Dennis" 
> > Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 12:44:21 PM
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Bad Race Start Last Night
> > 
> > 
> > Here's a nice video of it.
> > 
> > https://youtu.be/Isufp-6fudo
> > 
> > They looked a bit casual right before the wave.
> > 
> > Dennis C.
> > 
> > On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 12:55 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > > > > 
> > https://news.google.com/search?q=redondo+beach+sailboat+crash 
> > https://news.google.com/search?q=redondo+beach+sailboat+crash
> > > 
> > > Looks like a Capri 18.
> > > 
> > > Done right:
> > > 1. All crew wearing PFDs.
> > > 2. Capsized close to beach, easing rescue.
> > > 
> > > Mistakes?
> > > 1. Only had the jib up?  Hard to head up under jib alone.
> > > 2. No auxiliary power?
> > > 
> > > Cheers,
> > > Randy
> > > (from SoCal, where it is windy this weekend)
> > > 
> > > ___
> > > 
> > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our 
> > > members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please 
> > > go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > > 
> > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
> > you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
> > you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Solar Fans

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Solar Fans:

I considered adding some Lewmar opening ports, till I noticed many cruisers had 
solar fans installed thru them.  So I added two solar fans instead of ports, 
one over the Galley, and one over the Ice Box which are the highest points on 
the cabin.  They made a huge difference.  I added one to the head and replaced 
the one on the foredeck hatch so the boat has four fans. 


http://www.defender.com/expanded.jsp?path=-1|6880|2290139|2290144=1193043


The other thing that got rid of the boat smell, was cleaning the bilge, 
removing all of the grime, and painting it with bilgecote.   I only did the 
middle of the boat, but that's where the water collects and what a difference 
that made.  No more boat smell.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md___

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Re: Stus-List Metal sextant

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Funny, I was just at Bacon's yesterday. Picked up a used mainsail for my boat. 
It was 74 degrees, so I went for a harbor cruise and moved my boat to her new 
slip. Today we are prepping for an inch of snow and 17 degree temp. Crazy 
weather.


> On February 8, 2017 at 10:30 AM "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> It is on Legion Ave in Annapolis behind the Acura dealer.
> 
>  
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Liz 
> Mather via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 10:27
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Liz Mather 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Metal sextant
> 
>  
> 
> Thank you for the response…where is Bacon sails?
> 
> > > 
> > On Feb 8, 2017, at 8:48 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Bacon sails usually has several on the shelf.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Joel
> > 
> > On Wed, Feb 8, 2017 at 7:35 AM Liz Mather via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > > > > 
> > > Just wondering if anyone has or knows of someone that would 
> > > like to sell their sextant and would be interested in shipping to Canada?
> > > Thank you!
> > > 
> > > Mistral V
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Sent from my iPhone
> > > ___
> > > 
> > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our 
> > > members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please 
> > > go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > > 
> > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > --
> > 
> > Joel
> > 301 541 8551
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
> > you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> > 
> > > 
>  
> 
 

> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List C 25 MarkII mast step

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I lowered and raised the mast on my Cape Dory 22 every year using the boom as a 
gin pole. I also lead a team of guys to raise the mast on an O'Day 24.  Doesn't 
make me an expert, but we got it done safely and securely.  


The topping lift must be attached for this.
Two guys who work well together can do it, but it's better with three or four.  
One guy controls the mainsheet to raise or lower the mast while two others can 
guide the mast down onto the bow pulpit.  The key is to rig the mainsheet so 
you can operate it while keeping the boom on centerline.  If the boom falls off 
to one side, the mast will go to that side and bind at the tabernackle or 
worse, go overboard.

Lowering:  all sails are off.  Lube all turnbuckles.  Check your mainsheet and 
adjust the length so you can work the thing from the cabintop, with the boom 
straight up.  That's where the boom will be when the mast is horizontal.  You 
may need to reeve a much longer line for this, or add pendants, or add a 2nd 
purchase like a handy billy.  The weight of the mast is easy until it gets 
between 45 degrees and horizontal.  Two guys on the foredeck can easily work 
together and lower the mast from that 45 degree position onto the pullpit.  The 
guy with the mainsheet and guiding the boom as a gin pole can make their job 
super easy and that's why we made it so long.  The headstay can remain 
connected.  The backstay and shrouds need to be unattached just before the mast 
lowering, so lube them, loosen them but don't disconnect them until just prior 
to the deed. Tie a thick boat cushion to the bow pullpit to catch the mast.  
Have all this ready before assembling your two helpers, then explain th
 e plan and how they will need to grab the mast at about 6 feet up and steady 
it.  Tension the mainsheet before undoing the backstay.  Then with your helpers 
steadying the mast, you remove the turnbuckle clevis pins for the shrouds and 
backstay.   Then you remove the rear pin from the tabernackle. You take up 
position on the cabintop to steady the boom while controlling the boom on 
centerline.  A fourth person could help center the boom for you.  Then the mast 
guys walk the mast from vertical and (walking across the deck set it onto the 
pulpit.  They will be walking across the cabin top and down onto the deck, so 
be sure that surface is clean, clear and unobstructed. 


Raising: rig everything to the mast, all stays, shrouds, and halyards.  
Position clevis pins and cotter keys at each approriate deck fitting.  Get the 
mast on deck, but only attach the headstay.  The headstay will need to go over 
the pullpit rail to the deck fitting.  Reverse the lowering procedure.  Get the 
beckstay on and then the shrouds.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


> On February 1, 2017 at 10:39 AM Robert Snyder via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I'm very new to this list, so I'm not even sure if this is in the correct 
> format.
> 
> I've recently come into possession of a 1981 C, and would like to unstep 
> the mast. The mast fitting seems to have an incorporated tabernacle. Does 
> anyone have experience with this endeavor?
> 
> Thank you kindly,
> Robert Snyder
> 
> "North Country Lady" Lake Champlain 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Solvent for cleaning winches indoors?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I clean winches in the garage or on the boat using Diesel fuel or old Kerosene. 
I use an acid brush to wipe the gears and wipe off gunk with terry cloth (old 
face cloths) and final wipe off of solvent using cotton cloth (old tee shirt).

Chuck S


> On January 17, 2017 at 3:15 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Although kerosene is flammable, it is still safe to use in a garage.  I 
> did my winches that way.  The fumes are not volatile like gasoline fumes.  
> Just don't be near an open flame.  Let the parts soak for a while, before you 
> scrub with a tooth brush or wire brush.  When the parts are clean, wash the 
> kerosene off with soapy water, before re-lubing the winch.  Use the minimum 
> amount of winch grease, and only light oil on the pawls.
> 
> On Tue, Jan 17, 2017 at 11:54 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > I removed two of my mast mounted winches as they are 
> overdue for service (about 25 years overdue).  That was a job in itself, as 
> the bolts had fused to the aluminum mounting plates.  A combination of PB 
> Blaster, vinegar and acetone, along with a hammer and screwdrivers got them 
> off.
> > 
> > The grease is a gummy mess.  Any recommendations on a non-flammable 
> > solvent I can soak them in?  I'm working in the garage, so diesel and 
> > kerosene are out.
> > 
> > Joel
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > 
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> > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=vxTELKUm951Y3xTx8v_t_dNwN_Az7AFW6Ruzb6LMWzA=w0DMGcy3dbjItJ-qQ07XC6wQy40_hsePQ96Ikf1Mgog=
> >  
> > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=vxTELKUm951Y3xTx8v_t_dNwN_Az7AFW6Ruzb6LMWzA=w0DMGcy3dbjItJ-qQ07XC6wQy40_hsePQ96Ikf1Mgog=
> > 
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> 
> 
> --
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> ___
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Re: Stus-List C 37+ Backstay Inspection/Improvements

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

FWIW, I looked into splitting the backstay for my 34R and determined I would 
forgoe using U Bolts and substitute a length of Stainless Tee section from 
McMaster Carr.  That would allow me to shape the Tee bar into a proper tang 
with one hole for the backstay and six to eight bolts through the transom.   
It's easy to beef up the transom area by adding layers of glass inside and 
spread the load further using a large aluminum backing plate.  When I priced 
the 10,000# rated pulley needed for the backstay and faced hiring a rigger to 
shorten the backstay, I put the project into a folder marked, "If I ever win 
the lottery".


The point of all this is to encourage those who want the boat.  Reinforcing is 
a nice winter project; remove the U-bolts, apply layers of glass, add backing 
plates, make it better. 


Chuck
Resolute1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On January 4, 2017 at 7:04 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Follow the link below.  Find a transom picture - there are many.  The 
> humps on port and stbd top corners are the attachment points for the 
> hydraulics.  On Michael Cotton's boat,  Blue Pearl, there was only a single 
> hydraulic piston which attached on the port side.  This piston pulled down 
> against a turning block attached to the backstay which transfered half the 
> load to the starboard side.  The humps have a horizontal portion where a 
> standard u-bolt extends through.  It is hard to tell but the load 
> distribution has relatively limited surface area.  Even if it had (and it 
> doesn't) a custom strongback designed to fully engage the horizontal section 
> of the hump, it is still a considerable amount of point loading.  I've 
> visualized all manner of correction for this perceived weakness but continue 
> to fail to take action.
> 
> It is my belief that while a better design is/was possible, only one boat 
> has had a failure.  Evaluating that single known failure on that boat shows 
> that it is also possibly the only boat with a signal hydraulic ram.  Maybe a 
> hangup in the turning block caused an unequal distribution of the load 
> resulting in the failure.
> 
> I watch mine and consider pursuing the reinforcement from time to time.
> 
> https://plus.google.com/117078816966198897128/posts/2qzHVRgqeVz 
> https://plus.google.com/117078816966198897128/posts/2qzHVRgqeVz
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Jan 4, 2017 2:21 PM, "Mark Baldridge via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > Tom,
> > 
> > I looked at the boat about when the photos were taken and prior to 
> > the listing going up. The backstay is currently disconnected while the 
> > hydraulics are out being rebuilt. They are currently tied off to the stern 
> > pulpit. If you look close at the main picture you can see attachment point 
> > next to where the hydraulic line exits the deck.
> > 
> > I assume that this is standard.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Mark
> > 
> > On 1/4/2017 1:55 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List wrote:
> > 
> > > > > Hey Mark
> > > 
> > > I took a look at Ogopogo, the 37+/4- in Fairhope,online.  
> > > Since this string started with questions about the back stay on these 
> > > boats, I was wondering about the set up on the one you're looking at.  
> > > They seems to have been relocate inboard from their original location on 
> > > the transom.  I'm curious as to why this was done.  Any idea or 
> > > explanation given?
> > > 
> > > GL with the purchase...I am a huge fan of the 37+/40!
> > > 
> > > Tom B
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > 
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2017 21:17:34 -0500
> > From: Mark Baldridge  
> > mailto:jmbaldri...@gmail.com
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List C 37+ Backstay 
> > Inspection/Improvements
> > Message-ID: 
> > <6afc5ca3-ac75-7fc3-a725-64d0a88e0...@gmail.com> 
> > mailto:6afc5ca3-ac75-7fc3-a725-64d0a88e0...@gmail.com
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; 
> > Format="flowed"
> > 
> > Good luck Bruce!
> > 
> > Our survey is the 10th of January on the 1989 37/40+ out of 
> > Fairhope,
> > AL.  hull #30 (ex Dakota). Hoping for a good pass as well!
> > 
> > Mark Baldridge
> > ~~_/)
> > '75 C MKII "The Edge"
> > Surf City, NC
> > 
> > > 
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>  

Re: Stus-List mast wedge and hatch lens

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

My boat had green treated pine deck lumber for wedges.  I replaced them with 
wedges of teak from scaps I had.  But once wood  compresses, it doesn't come 
back.  If I did it again I'd look for hard rubber matting like a thick door 
matt and cut that into shapes to fit the mast collar.   


Spartite would be the ultimate fix.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On January 1, 2017 at 11:20 AM Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> If you have access to a bandsaw/tablesaw, it's fairly easy to make your 
> own wedges from a chunk of hardwood.  I don't know of anyone
> who has them comercially available.  I milled my own a while back from a 
> chunk of wood I grabbed off my wood lot.  The wedges are
> tapered on one side.  I cut the taper on my table saw on a wide board, 
> then ripped the board into the width for the wedge to make a
> bunch.  2 inches seems wide for the wedge.  More wedges and narrower will 
> make fitting easier.  I think I've got 8 or so around my
> mast.   You must have a place like:
> http://www.kjpselecthardwoods.com/
> around Kingston somewhere as a good source for some 4/4 or 6/4 hardwood.
> 
> Another option is to use a product like:
> https://www.spartite.com/Default.aspx?SiteID=3
> 
> I replaced my forward hatch lens a number of years ago for much of the 
> same reasons you are now.  I don't remember the
> exact product, but I suspect it wasn't acrylic.  Some other  
> polycarbonate.  Any plastics shop should be able to recommend the
> righ material for UV resistance and strength.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> --
> Cheers,
> Jeff Nelson
> Muir Caileag
> C 30
> Armdale Y.C.
> Halifax
> 
> 
> On 12/31/2016 10:43 AM, Kevin Deluzio via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > Hi, 
> >  I’m in the first year of owning a 1980 C 30 Mk1, (- love the 
> > boat -) and I have a couple questions that I am hoping some of you may be 
> > able to help me with - thanks in advance. 
> > 
> > First - mast wedges
> >  The boat came with about 3 or 4 wooden wedges about 1” x 2” x 4” 
> > that were wedged between the mast and the mast collar where it went through 
> > the deck. They were falling out most of the season. I am told that the 
> > original design had 4 wooden wedges that countered the mast to fill in the 
> > entire 360degrees around the mast. Is that true? What is a best way to 
> > replace these - Spartite ?
> > 
> > Second - hatch lens replacement
> >  The V-berth hatch lens was cracked and leaking last season. I have 
> > removed the lens and plan to replace it myself. Hoping that the supplier 
> > can cut the new one to shape using the old as a blank, or I have access to 
> > a bandsaw to do that part of the job. What’s the best material for this - 
> > Acrylic? Any advice from others who have done this job before? 
> > 
> > thanks
> > Kevin
> > 
> > Kevin Deluzio
> > 1980 C 30
> > Kingston, ON,
> > ___
> > 
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
> > you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> > 
> > > 
> --
> Boat_Sig Cheers,
> Jeff Nelson
> Muir Caileag
> C 30
> Armdale Y.C.
> Halifax
> 


 

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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
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Re: Stus-List Possible Boom modification

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Our boom used to swing across the cockpit right at head level.  I had a 
sailmaker add a cringle 18" higher on our mainsail leech, kind of a flattening 
reef.  I heard a cruiser did it to keep his boom above his bimini and called it 
a bimini reef.  It kept our boom just higher than my head and worked so well, 
the next season I had the sailmaker make the change permanent, reinforce that 
area and cut the foot material away.  I've been using that sail for the last 3 
years


If I had money, I'd buy a shorter boom than the original boom and buy a new 
mainsail to fit.  Alas.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On January 1, 2017 at 6:42 PM Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I wear a helmet for several different activities that I am involved in.  
> Several other activities that generally use helmets I feel comfortable 
> without it.  If I were worried about my head while sailing I think I might 
> consider a helmet.  A climbing helmet would serve the purpose very well.  
> Give you a nice place to mount your Go Pr to get videos of you whipping and 
> berating those short deck hands!  lol 
> I am surprised that more racing boats don’t use them actually.  
> 
> > > On Jan 1, 2017, at 8:55 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > Why not just shorten the leach on the main sail by about 6 - 12" 
> > and have the boom higher at the clew than at the tack.   That should clear 
> > all heads and avoid remounting the goose neck fitting.   You could add a 
> > new clew cringle or have the foot cut and original clew cringle moved up.   
> > Should not cost very much especially since it's loose footed.   Jerry
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: David Knecht via CnC-List  > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > To: CnC CnC discussion list  > mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com >
> > Cc: David Knecht  > mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com >
> > Sent: Sun, Jan 1, 2017 10:40 am
> > Subject: Stus-List Possible Boom modification
> > 
> > Happy New Year to All!   I would like to get some advice on a 
> > modification I am considering for my C 34+.  I love the boat, but one 
> > thing that has concerned me from the beginning has been the boom height.  I 
> > am 6’3” and the boom in normal sailing position is at head height.  If I 
> > were to be standing in the cockpit (or even leaning forward at the helm) 
> > during an unexpected jibe or tack, I would be in serious trouble.  We had 
> > someone killed during a race in Fishers Island Sound last year in an 
> > incident of that sort.  So I am considering moving the boom a foot higher.  
> > It looks like a fairly simple modification. I would have a new boom 
> > attachment fitting welded or bolted to the mast, leaving the old one in 
> > place.  I would have the sailmaker add cringles to create a new tack and 
> > clew attachment, leaving the old ones in place.  Since the main is loose 
> > footed, the extra sailcloth would just sit on the boom in the sail pack.  
> > With those changes, it would be easy to reverse the alterations in the 
> > future. I don’t think anything else would have to be done.  The only 
> > problem I can see is that I would be the only one who can reach the head of 
> > the main to attach the halyard, but I do that now so not a big deal.  
> > Thoughts?  Thanks- Dave
> > 
> > Aries
> > 1990 C 34+
> > New London, CT
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
> > you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> > ___
> > 
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
> > you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> > 
> > > 
> 


 

> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Looking at C 37/40+ CB as next boat

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

A "hand hole" is an inspection hole with a cover large enough to get a hand 
through. A "manhole" is larger allowing a man to get through.


> On December 5, 2016 at 2:08 PM "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Inspection plate???
>  
> From: David via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Monday, December 05, 2016 11:54 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: David mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking at C 37/40+ CB as next boat
>  
> Errr...what is a "hand hole"?
>  
>  
>  
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> Date: 12/4/16 19:44 (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking at C 37/40+ CB as next boat
> 
> My holding tank is plastic but the hand hole came loose and was a 
> considerable pain in the ass to fix.  The forward water tank in mine is 
> aluminum and the fuel tank is aluminum.  The back stay attachments are a 
> place for detailed inspection.  You'll probably find that the steering cable 
> idlers plate, directly under the pedestal, is probably badly rusted.  It 
> should be one of the first safety repairs.  The engine mounts may be soft and 
> in need of replacement too.
>  
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Sun, Dec 4, 2016, 6:28 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > Hi Mark,
> >  Wow!  We have a lot in common.  Last year I sold my 35 Mk II 
> > (Expresso) and bought my 37/40+.  I loved Expresso, but the 37+ is better 
> > in almost every way.  The performance difference is breathtaking.  The boat 
> > I bought was in pretty bad shape and I spent almost a year refitting her.  
> > We renamed her "Kaylarah" after my grand daughters Kayla and Sarah.  The 
> > side windows are chronic problems on these boats, but almost all of them 
> > have that problem, so you will probably have to deal with that.  If you 
> > are, at all handy, they are not that hard to fix.  I can give you a lot of 
> > advice in that area.  The holding tank is made out of aluminum, and the 
> > tank was installed before the interior was installed.  Repairing/replacing 
> > the tank is a big deal.  Of course, you should watch out for the usual 
> > punky cored deck.  Otherwise she is a good boat with minimal problems.  
> > Text me if you need specific advice.  There are a lot of 37/40+ owners on 
> > this forum and they have a lot of help
 ful knowledge.
> >  
> > Good luck,
> > Gary
> > S/V Kaylarah
> > '90 C 37+
> > East Greenwich, RI, USA
> >  
> > ~~~_/)~~
> > 
> >  
> > On Sun, Dec 4, 2016 at 6:48 PM, Mark via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > > > > I am looking at a 1993 C 37/40+ CB model as our next 
> > boat. My first big boat was a 1974 C 27 which I had to 12 years, then 
> > upgraded to a 1975 C 35 MKII in 1992. After 25 years (come February) on 
> > the best boat ever built, I'm looking to upgrade to something a little more 
> > cruising, but with C performance. Given that requirement, it seems 
> > reasonable that I should stick with C
> > > 
> > > I've read through the all the email lists concerning the C 
> > > 37+ and most everything looks positive. The boat I'm looking at is listed 
> > > in Marco Island and immediately needs hatches and windows. I looked at it 
> > > over the Thanksgiving holidays, and other that those issues, it seems 
> > > quite basic; doesn't appear to have been raced hard (i.e. no spin 
> > > hardware & Dacron sails) and not much in cruising upgrades (i.e. needs 
> > > windless, davits, etc.). Could be a good platform to start with.
> > > 
> > > For you C 37/40+ owners out there, is there any thing I 
> > > should pay close attention to other than engine condition & standing 
> > > rigging condition that could bite me.
> > > 
> > > Thanks,
> > > Mark Baldridge
> > > ~~_/)
> > > '75 C MKII "The Edge"
> > > Surf City, NC
> > > 
> > > 
> > > ___
> > > 
> > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our 
> > > members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please 
> > > go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > > 
> > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> > > 
> > > > >  
> > ___
> > 
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
> 

Re: Stus-List Sail Flaking

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

I read your suggestion about "pocketing the main".  30 to 40% from the 
gooseneck positions me on the cabintop.   And we are not flaking, but making a 
burrito that we stuff and roll up onto the boom and tie with a single sail tie? 
 Is that right?


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On December 3, 2016 at 10:17 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> On Fri, Dec 2, 2016 at 9:30 PM, Jim Eagon via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > I've been reading this subject for a few days now, and 
> it's interesting that it doesn't look like anybody has mentioned the Dutchman 
> Flaking System. I really like mine and it works very well for flaking my sail 
> when single-handing.
> > 
> > > 
> 
> Nobody has mentioned "pocketing" the main either.  However, pocketing is 
> a LOT easier with a second person or an autopilot.  It is NOT nearly the 
> equivalent of a Dutchman, Lazy Jack or stack system.
> 
> Pocketing is simply rolling the main in on itself.  First, the boom is 
> sheeted to center line and the sail is dropped.  A crew or the single hander 
> stands on one side of the boom about 35-40% of the way back from the 
> gooseneck, reaches across the boom, grabs a handful of sail and rolls it 
> inward towards himself.  Repeat until the sail is in a moderately tight roll 
> and then secure it with a sail tie.  The sail is secured and can be flaked 
> neatly later at the dock or anchorage.
> 
> I've used this technique dozens of times with success.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
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Re: Stus-List Cracked Boom

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Boom cracked at boom vang attachment:

I'd get it welded and ask for some reinforcement like an aluminum pipe be 
welded or screwed inside to spread the load of the vang.  You have a chance to 
make the thing stronger, take it.  


If you replace it, I'd highly recommend Selden.  My personal favorite.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On November 3, 2016 at 4:12 AM Ian Matthew via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would not recommend welding. There is a lot of force on the boom at the 
> boom bang attachment point so my recommendation is to get a replacement. Mine 
> broke during a race because of a small crack I had not seen. Interestingly my 
> rigger suggested the boom section (the original boom) was not strong enough 
> for the forces so I have a really good boom now.  Mind you summer racing is 
> always in strong winds!
> 
> Fair winds
> Ian Matthew
> C 29-1. "Siento el Viento"
> San Francisco Bay
> 
> On Thursday, November 3, 2016, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > The race boat I crew on had this happen.  IIRC they went to 
> > Annapolis Spars to get a replacement.
> > 
> > I wouldn't hesitate to contact a welder to see if they can repair 
> > it.
> > 
> > Josh Muckley
> > S/V Sea Hawk
> > 1989 C 37+
> > Solomons, MD
> > 
> > 
> > On Nov 2, 2016 9:54 PM, "ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List" 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > > > > After a race on Sunday, my crew discovered a 
> > crack in the boom.  It extends across the boom for about an inch on each 
> > side of the boom, and it's located just aft of the vang attachment.  The 
> > attachment is made out of aluminum, and it looks like the welds are also 
> > cracked.  Has anyone on the list experienced this? Can the boom be 
> > repaired, or will I need a new boom?
> > > 
> > > --
> > > Alan Bergen
> > > 35 Mk III Thirsty
> > > Rose City YC
> > > Portland, OR
> > > 
> > > ___
> > > 
> > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our 
> > > members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please 
> > > go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > > 
> > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > > 
> 
> --
> Ian Matthew
> "Siento el Viento" C 29 mk 1
> San Francisco Bay
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Radar mount

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Saw some nice pole installs on newer boats using a SS bracket that has a rubber 
ball.  The radar pole sits on the ball and needs minimal support by the stern 
rail.  Two guys used these to add an outboard engine davit with purchase.  
Looked like Edson fittings.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md



> On November 1, 2016 at 10:10 AM "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Anyone ever hoisted a mount up attached to the spinnaker pole track???
> 
> J
> 
> Coquina
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Frederick G Street via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 09:26
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Frederick G Street 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Radar mount
> 
>  
> 
> Mike - for something removable and rarely used, you may want to consider 
> self-fabricating a stern pole.  It’s a bit of work, but I’d suggest the type 
> that drops into a fiberglass tube glassed in and supported with gussets below 
> the stern deck.  If you design and install it well, you can get away with 
> minimal lateral support above the deck, and you could arrange things so that 
> you just pull the tube, disconnect the radar and cap the hole when you’re not 
> using it.  The tube below-deck tube should extend as far down into the hull 
> as you can get it, to provide support for the stern pole.
> 
>  
> 
> Here’s a guy who did a similar job on his Tartan: 
> http://www.oceannavigator.com/January-February-2003/Installing-a-radar-set-on-an-older-vessel/
> 
>  
> 
> You wouldn’t need to use Edson (or ScanStrut, or…) hardware for the pole 
> itself; get aluminum tubing of the correct diameter to mate with your top 
> plate of choice, and have it powder-coated.  That’ll save some $$$.
> 
>  
> 
> — Fred
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>  
> 
> > > 
> > On Oct 31, 2016, at 1:40 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > A question to this list about mounting a radar
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > I recently stumbled into a situation where a 5 year old Garmin 
> > radome that was the exact correct model for our Garmin GPSMAP 740 
> > chartplotter became available for just under $500.  Given this great price 
> > and our recent night trip up the coast in heavy fog we decided we should 
> > snatch this up.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > We like to be able to do a bit of cruising on our boat but we also 
> > like to do some racing.  As with all the other cruisy stuff (dodger, 
> > bimini, etc) I like the option of being able to install it only for a 
> > cruise and leave it home the rest of the time.  I do not wish to have the 
> > radome mounted on the mast for this reason (and the wear and other issues 
> > on the jib).  Was thinking of either a backstay mounted solution or a 
> > removable radar pole at the stern.  Something like the Scanstrut SC100 
> > series.  The issue I have found is that the backstay mount and removable 
> > pole mounts are extremely expensive and we are not even certain how much we 
> > will use this. 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Any advice from others on this list or knowledge of a used pole or 
> > perhaps info on how to manufacture my own?
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Thanks
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Mike
> > 
> > Persistence
> > 
> > HAlifax
> > 
> > > 
>  
> 


 

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> 
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Chart plotter problem

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Usually, there is a shop that specializes in alternator and starter repairs for 
cars somewhere nearby.  Google that for the best price.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On November 1, 2016 at 2:26 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I took the alternator out of the boat last weekend so I could get it 
> tested.  Any suggestions on where to take it?  Would a good auto repair shop 
> be able to do this, or do I need someone more specialized.  Dave
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> > > On Oct 3, 2016, at 12:07 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > If it's rf noise generated by the alternator it may be coming in 
> > through your GPS antenna as well as data or power lines.  If it is rf noise 
> > you should be able to hear it with a small AM radio held nearby (tune to 
> > around 1400 KHz).   I still think your voltage regulator is suspect. When 
> > the battery reaches its maximum charge of approximately 14.2 volts, the 
> > regulator will then limit the alternator's output. The battery acts as a 
> > buffer so that may be what's causing the problem to sometimes not show with 
> > the engine on..   If the engine has been off for a while the battery 
> > voltage may fall in the 12's and it may take a while for it to overcharge 
> > into the 14's where your chart plotter may start to act erratically again.  
> >  When you turn off the engine it may take a few minutes for the voltage to 
> > drop back into a safe level.   You said you are measuring in the 14 volt 
> > range with the engine on.  If it is above 14.2 that would be suspect. Jerry 
> >  J7J
> > 
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
> > Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
> > Sent: Mon, Oct 3, 2016 11:08 am
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Chart plotter problem
> > 
> > You could try something like this:
> > 
> > http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEWMAR-PC-25-Noise-Filter-Power-Conditioner-25-amps-/231859240381?hash=item35fbe33dbd:g:Zn0AAOSwPc9W0ftz=mtr
> >  
> > Oscilloscope (scope) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oscilloscope FYI
> > If you know any ham radio operators, they probably know where to 
> > find one to borrow.
> >  
> > Your plotter also could just be nuts ;)
> > Joe
> > Coquina
> >  
> >  
> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> > David Knecht via CnC-List
> > Sent: Monday, October 03, 2016 09:56
> > To: CnC CnC discussion list
> > Cc: David Knecht
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Chart plotter problem
> >  
> > Hi Joe and thanks for your input.  Some answers below.
> >  
> > Aries
> > 1990 C 34+
> > New London, CT
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > On Oct 3, 2016, at 9:11 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > Some things to try:
> > 1.   Run the plotter off its own battery. Little 6 ah AGM 
> > batteries are cheap enough if you don’t have a spare battery sitting around.
> > Given the intermittent nature of the problem, this would be 
> > challenging to do long enough to be definitive.  I am also not sure it will 
> > identify the source of the problem since it appears to be the power (see 
> > below).
> > 
> > 2.   Put a scope on the DC bus to see what, if any, AC/noise is 
> > on the line. Include an engine start with this.
> > I don’t have a scope and have not used one.  What kind of device 
> > would you do this with?
> > 
> > 3.   Disconnect the NMEA interconnection and see what happens.
> > As I said, when this happened last week, the NMEA input was 
> > disconnected from the chart plotter, so this seems to be coming from the 
> > power connection.  What is frustrating is that yesterday, I started the 
> > engine twice, once before and once after the race, and the chart plotter 
> > behaved perfectly and never beeped once.  Nothing was obviously 
> > different??
> >  
> >  
> >  
> > 4.   Check the NMEA connection for configuration. Does the 
> > plotter send and receive data or just send? No need to have the NMEA input 
> > line connected if there is no data headed that way. 
> > 5.   Put a laptop on the NMEA connection or run the diagnostic 
> > window on the plotter, if it has one, and read the raw NMEA stream to see 
> > if it is getting some odd data or any data at all if it should not be.
> > 6.   Put ferrites on all incoming wiring.
> > 7.   Check for ground loops 

Re: Stus-List Force on the midship cleat

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

FWIW, I installed midship cleats 12 years ago.  Think I paid $25 for 4 hole 
Schaefer stainless 8 inch.  I added big and thick aluminum backing plates under 
the deck.


http://www.shopsoundboatworks.com/sc6alcl.html?cmp=googleproducts=sc6alcl=CO6i-JD-iNACFRdbhgodCUAFjQ
 
http://www.shopsoundboatworks.com/sc6alcl.html?cmp=googleproducts=sc6alcl=CO6i-JD-iNACFRdbhgodCUAFjQ


If I did it again, I'd probably install fairleads instead: Better on your toes 
and doesn't snag lines.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/harken--grand-prix-big-boat-jib-lead--16023681?cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-Shopping_PLAs-_-16023681=1o3=108421558804=c==g=CLLqj9b-iNACFcJZhgodPP4GGg



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md




> On October 31, 2016 at 10:44 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm keen on these toe rail midship cleats that CnCers have been 
> recommending and thinking of ordering some:
> 
> 
> http://www.csjohnson.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info_id=23
>  
> http://www.csjohnson.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info_id=23
> 
> They're rated for a load of 2,000lb.  Assuming my 10,000 displacement C 
> is on a nylon spring line (with rubber snubbers) tied to this in a 40kn wind, 
> will the cleat hold?
> 
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boat Handling Skill

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I had a chance to see a Dock And Go system first hand aboard a friend's boat.  
We cruised 10 days thru Holland and docked in many different scenarios aboard a 
Beneteau Sense 55..  The owner was very technical and loved the system, though 
the bow thruster was sometimes underpowered in the conditions.  We had 20 to 
30+ knots every day I was there.  The controls seemed well thought out but the 
battery string was not, and some days we drained the batteries too low using 
electric winches sailing all day, for the navionics.  They've since separated 
the battery strings into engine start, house, and navionics so your chart 
plotter doesn't quit as you sail into a harbor entrance, when you need it most. 
 My skipper friend showed me a spring line docking technigues he employed 
because his fairway was only five feet wider than the length of his boat and 
they had a lot of strong cross winds to negotiate.  


One trick was to come into the fairway and lay the boat's stern quarter near 
enough to get a line around an downwind piling and winch the boat in tight and 
use the engine in reverse to power the whole boat so it lined up to back in to 
the slip, reverse while easing the line to the piling and enter the slip in 
control.   This can be done by one person, from the cockpit.  The Dock and Go 
worked well, but was just too risky in such a tight space with so many 
expensive neighboring vessels.  This technique works better for wider vessels, 
because of the longer lever, the thrust of the prop is further from the side of 
the boat/piling, the fulcrum point.   I saw another boater use this method to 
get his 41 into his slip when the tide was running a full ebb, sideways to his 
slip. 


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On October 27, 2016 at 10:35 AM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Several years ago, Beneteau announced that all of their boats over 47’ 
> could be equipped with an optional “Dock and Go” system, in which the primary 
> propulsion sail drive would be able to pivot and turn to allow joy stick 
> docking and close quarter maneuvering.  This was achieved through a 
> sophisticated computer system that adjusted prop drive angle to a joy stick 
> actuator, independent of the rudder.
> 
> 
> http://www.soundingsonline.com/news/dispatches/582-sept-15-2010/265542-beneteau-pioneers-joystick-docking
> 
> I saw it in action at the Annapolis Boat Show and it was quite 
> impressive, especially mated to a 50’ cruising sailboat with an enormous 
> beam.  Not long after the boat show debut,  several boats  equipped with the 
> system were reported to have reliability issues, most of which were 
> attributed to voltage drops computer issues and the company struggled to 
> support the owners having the new technology.  As a result, I haven’t heard 
> much to tout this steering augmentation in the last few years and perhaps it 
> has been dropped from the option list.
> 
>  
> 
> I know as a hands on boat owner who prefers to understand and 
> troubleshoot issues on my 33 year old cruiser,  I would be extremely bummed 
> out if a sail drive or any sort of prop could  potentially fail and  lock in 
> place while pointing 30-40 degrees off the centerline of the boat and have 
> the issue be a computer glitch.  Talk about “prop walk”!
> 
> Chuck Gilchrest
> 
> S/V Half Magic
> 
> 1983 Landfall 35
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
> Aronson via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2016 9:50 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joel Aronson 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Handling Skill
> 
>  
> 
> I've got a friend with a Riveria with the pod.  Makes docking more like a 
> video game.
> 
>  
> 
> With twin screws you should be able to put a power boar or cat almost 
> anywhere.  With one engine in forward and one in reverse it will pivot in 
> place.  You don't use the wheel when docking twin screws.
> 
>  
> 
> Joel
> 
>  
> 
> On Thu, Oct 27, 2016 at 9:19 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > I agree.  Some skippers demonstrate great seamanship. 
> > 
> > Then there's the joy of a well equipped boat.
> > 
> > Couple years ago, a fella with a nice MJM 40 
> > (https://mjmyachts.com/40z) was leaving a side to docking just in front of 
> > Touche'.  Being a helpful sort, I wandered up and asked if he needed help 
> > getting away from the pier.  With a wry smile, he graciously thanked me but 
> > declined.  He then finished untying and placed himself at the helm station. 
> >  With a couple of slight control moves, the MJM moved directly away from 
> > the pier.  He explained that not only was the boat equipped with a bow 
> > thruster but also pod drives. 
> > 
> > From the MJM 

Re: Stus-List zinc location

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

FWIW, In our area, any boat with a strut has a zinc forward of the cutless 
bearing.  An engine guy advised me to leave a good 1 inch gap between the zinc 
and the bearing to allow for movement caused by engine thrust and to help water 
to lubricate the bronze bearing.  Full keeled boats or boats without an exposed 
prop shaft, get a zinc installed in front of the prop.   There isn't enough 
shaft between the strut and the prop to mount a zinc on our 34R. 


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On October 28, 2016 at 10:44 AM Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My surveyor pointed out that if you place a shaft zinc FORWARD of the 
> cutlass bearing, coupler failure will NOT result in a big hole in your boat. 
> I see them AFT all the time walking boatyards after haulout..
> 
> Nate
> preciated!
> 
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List boat handling, spring lines and fenders

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Fender location is critical to sailboats because of the curved shape.  If I tie 
to a floating dock, I found I can get away with using two big fenders at max 
beam, one at the gate and the other at the stanchion 5 ft forward of the gate, 
and keep a round ball handy if I need to protect the bow or stern to spring off 
of something.  


IMHO  Too many skippers approach a slip, or a fuel dock without any lines or 
fenders rigged.   I learned long ago (the hard way of course) to prerig fenders 
and docklines ahead of time.  What works best for us, is to rig a bow and stern 
line long enough that it can be coiled at the side gate so myself or a crew 
member can step onto the dock with both lines.  On my 35 footer, the bow lines 
are 40 ft long and the stern lines 25 ft.  If someone is on the dock, we can 
also hand them a line, but I learned the hard way to not give them the bowline, 
but give them a spring line, and we tie our own dock lines ourselves.  Before 
coming into the fairway, I rig the fenders and lines to the side I expect to 
tie to.  I open the gate and hang the short coil of line on the lifelines.  I 
also rig a 25 footer to my midship cleat as my emergency line and lay that coil 
on deck so I can reach it from the dock.  I then approach the dock, stopping 
with the engine, so when the fenders kiss the dock, I step 
 thru the gate w both bow and stern in hand, get the shorter stern line on a 
cleat, then bow.  Sometimes I control the bow with that longer line, wrapping 
it round a dock cleat forward while tying the stern line to a cleat further 
aft.  The tail of the bow line is usually long enough that after cleating, I 
can take it to my midship cleat as a spring.  My emergency line rigged to the 
midship cleat is sometimes handy to grab and pull tight to the dock to control 
the boat, like in a river when current is a factor, or winds blowing off the 
dock.  That line eventually gets rigged as the other spring.  


Using cleats;  Two horn method;  wrapping the line around two horns without 
tying the line, you can easily stop your boat and/or ease a line very 
gracefully.  Some say you can hold an aircraft carrier.  I just know it is 
something you need to try and see to believe and I try to show people whenever 
I can.  Next time the wind is up and you want to tension a line, use the two 
horn method.  Untie the knot but keep tension on the line over two horns with 
one hand.  Then with the other hand, pull the line going to your boat at a 
sideways angle.  This gives you a 30:1 mechanical advantage.  Take up the slack 
with the first hand and maintain tension on the tail going round two horns.  
I've shown this to veteran cruisers who didn't know this little trick.  It will 
save your back.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On October 27, 2016 at 10:25 PM Dave via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Was going to say this, for docking, you can just tie a breastline to the 
> toerail...
> I have a line run from bow cleat, tied to toerail beside the cockpit with 
> enough slack that I can drop it over the cleat at my slip when docking 
> singlehanded.  I then turn the helm slightly away from the dock, put the boat 
> back in gear and just leave it idling.The boat takes up the slack and 
> snuggles itself against the dock, bow gently trying to turn away, and idles 
> there while I step ashore to secure things.I have a length of plastic 
> tubing over the line to stiffen it and make it easy to drop over the cleat 
> while drifting by.Watched a neighbour do that a few years back and copied 
> him.  very simple.  
> 
> Dave.
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2016 01:47:50 +
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Handling Skill
> Message-ID:
> mailto:ca+zacrahaqozxvxwrcahjgbdjoa+8mj+nfjitaj4ass+e+8...@mail.gmail.com >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Funny you should mention a midships cleat.  My wife has been begging me 
> for
> a midships cleat/solution of some sort.  I finally had some time and made
> some amsteel loops that I luggage tagged onto the toe rail at the midships
> position.  I tie my mooring line to it with a sheet bend.  The amsteel is
> rated at ~9000 pounds and the loop doubled over quadruples the number of
> fibers carrying the load so I feel very confident that the loop is not the
> weak point in the system.  When I'm done using the loops  they just live
> there on the rail until next time.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, M
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 


 

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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to 

Re: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

FWIW, I heard it explained that propwalk originates because the shaft is at an 
angle to horizontal. The more angle the more prop walk. Also, more surface area 
of the prop causes more prop walk. Sail drives have the least prop walk because 
their shaft is horizontal, not at an angle. Power boats with outboards have 
very little propwalk. Powerboats with inboards and angled shafts have the most 
prop walk as their props are huge, too.

Propwalk is not a problem but a sideways thrust that if used wisely, can be 
very helpful at times.

When docking stern first, I get the boat moving where I want it and shift into 
neutral. I leave the throttle at idle and shift into reverse just long enough 
to keep her moving. To slow or to stop, I place the shifter into foreward only 
long enough to stop. Impulse power vs warp power.

Chuck Scheaffer
Resolute 1990 C 34R


> On October 26, 2016 at 1:20 AM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had issues with my 2 blade Martec though not as bad as you describe.  I 
> would open with a clunk, sometimes stick when opening, and have some bad 
> vibrations. A surveyor informed me it should be be rebuilt, which is in the 
> works.  I replaced it with a 3 blade Campbell Sailer prop, which I'm happy 
> with, although reversing with the Martec had way less prop walk.
>  
> 
> > > Hey guys, with all of the discussion on props it reminded me that 
> I'm
> > having an issue with my 2 blade folding prop. Pretty sure it's the 
> > Martec
> > that you all are mentioning.
> > I continue to have issues with one blade not opening after we've 
> > been out
> > sailing. Once we drop the sails and go to engage the engine and 
> > prop it
> > fails to open one side and I get severe vibrations. Is this a 
> > normal thing
> > with these props? It truly makes me want to just get a fixed prop.
> > Unfortunately that's not in the budget right now though.
> > So far I've tried:
> >- to come to a complete stop and try again
> >- Kick it into reverse and then back to forward
> >- short kick to full throttle.
> > 
> > The last time we were out nothing worked. We ended up limping along 
> > back to
> > our slip. Afterwards I checked it by rotating it from the inside 
> > and it
> > sounded like both blades would open when it was facing down because 
> > I heard
> > the clunk.
> > Occasionally it will open but it's not a first time thing. On 
> > departure
> > from the slip I don't have any issues, it's only when trying to 
> > reengage
> > the motor after a sail. It's really frustratin
> > 
> > > ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
 
___

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