Stus-List Re: To sell or not to sell

[Dave via CnC-List]

Only input I’ll provide is that I loved my 35 MK 3 and wish I never sold it.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 27, 2023, at 6:20 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thomas,
> 
> 4k is very cheap for trucking a boat. Does that include hauling demasting, 
> loading and unloading — and then restepping? 
> 
> My advice is that you are probably better off selling down there and shop for 
> a new boat up north. 
> 
> All the best, 
> 
> Edd
> 
> ———-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
> Bayliner 3788 | NCC-1701-C
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> ———-
> 914.774.9767   |Mobile
> ———-
> Sent via iPhone 14 Pro
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> 
> On Mar 27, 2023, at 6:06 PM, Thomas Perison via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Greetings all - 
> Long-time follower, believe this is my 1st post.  …welcoming all input / 
> advice from the elders…
> -sorry in advance for the long post - 
> 
> Background: My boat “Therapy” (29 mkII) currently is berthed in Solomons MD. 
> I moved to Buffalo NY this past fall (the “why” is a long story …planning on 
> trucking her here this spring (have quotes etc). 
> Debating about selling her in MD vs the ~$4k moving cost.   I have put 
> extensive work ($) in her over the past 5 yrs: new electronics w/NMEA 2000 /  
> running rigging / interior / exterior cushions / Bimini & dodger / traveler & 
> main sheet; lifelines,  lights; among other things. 
> I know most of that doesn’t translate to much add’l value….online ads range 
> from $teens to low $20s. 
> My main question..thoughts on the least-bad option:  sell in MD or bear the 
> cost to truck her to WNY? 
> I believe she’s worth about $20k…thinking realistically.  
> Before y’all think I’m throwing out the anchor - there is a very nice 35-Mk 
> III for sale locally…! 
> 
> Cheers ! 
> Tom 
> “Therapy”
> 1984 29-Mk II 
> Solomons MD 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Forward Hatch Handles

[Dave via CnC-List]

Brian – don’t cut it off!Is it like this one? https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/hatch-refurbishment.html DaveWindstar, 33-2  Sent from Mail for Windows From: Brian Morrison via CnC-ListSent: March 11, 2023 10:51 PMTo: Stus-ListCc: Brian MorrisonSubject: Stus-List Forward Hatch Handles Hello, Does anyone know where I can purchase replacement handles for the forward v-berth hatch on a 1979 C? I am replacing the hatch but cannot remove the pin/screw that holds the exterior knob in place on one of them. I think I may have to cut it off and get a new one.  ThanksBrian C. MorrisonPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List 1985 Bomar hatch gasket source?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Hello all – have moved my hatch refurbishment ahead somewhat, and have the powder coated frames back, and have the replacement acrylic in the shop, ready to be cut.    I need to order the extruded black foam (neoprene?) rope style gasketing.   I have attempted to measure the squashed-but-still-resilient originals and there may be two diameters, .50” for the smaller hatch and around .56” for the larger.   (so, ½” and 9/16” maybe?  Or maybe just 9/16”?) Does anyone know the correct dimension and specification of this material, and where it can be sourced?    Thanks!   Dave1985 33-2 Windstar. https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/hatch-refurbishment.html  Sent from Mail for Windows Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2 GMF

[Dave via CnC-List]

We have met the enemy, and he is us!  LolMine also disintegrated, and the particles were ingested by the engine.   Seems a bit ironic for an air filter to expire this way, though oddly just for failing to replace it.   You too were punished.   Karma. Glad it worked out. Dave  Sent from Mail for Windows From: Robert AbbottSent: June 29, 2022 6:18 PMTo: Stus-ListCc: Dave SSubject: Yanmar 2 GMF Dave,The truth be known, genius here 2 or 3 years ago took the old filter out and it had pretty much had been disintegratednot having a new Yanmar air filter, but the old metal ring, I took a piece of a sponge and cut it to fit into the metal ring and thought it was all O.K.   The sponge will filter the air.    Right?Well no, it did work for a while but a genuine Yanmar air filter works better.as I found out.There, I confessedit was me that caused the problem.   The new Yanmar air filter cost $45 here which seems like a lot for a simple device.  But $45 is not a lot when the pain, angst, and disruption of one's sailing season is in jeopardy.Rob AbbottAZURAC 32 - #277Halifax, N.S. On 2022-06-29 2:06 p.m., Dave S via CnC-List wrote:Good to hear.   How the heck did the old one get that clogged?   Bad decade for mosquitoes?    Dave   On Tue, 28 Jun 2022 at 22:19, Robert Abbott via CnC-List  wrote:While I awaited another day for a marine mechanic to get around to addressing my engine problem, while on the boat today, I thought of something.    I had a new Yanmar air filter on the boat which I got last year, which I thought what harm could a new air filter dochanged out the old one and replaced with new one, and guess what, in neutral, the engine revived up to 3,400 before i stoppedran the engine in forward gear at the slip for another 20 minutes shut the engine off...started again...revved up and downengine works as it should.The problem was a lack of airexplains where the smoke was coming fromincomplete combustion...now, with the new air filter, no smoke.Thanks to everyone for thoughts/possibilities of what might be the cause of my engine issue.Going for a sail tomorrow.Rob AbbottAZURAC 32 - #277Halifax, N.S.  

Stus-List Re: C 41 thoughts?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Thanks Glenn, the short cockpit seats/big wheel are one of the compromises on my 33 as well.   I had seen seat-fillers on other boats, along with the traveller relocation, though I do like traveller and especially mainsheet access from the helm   Need to work those things out.   Am glad to hear that the much-maligned IOR influence doesn’t seem to make the boat any less enjoyable than it does with my 33-2.   I agree completely on windward ability – here in the Toronto area we spend much of our  time sailing to windward in light air, and I would be really frustrated with a boat that didn’t perform well in those conditions.    Reinforces the point about buying the right boat for the conditions.    I am unlikely to be roaring downwind in huge seas under full spin any time soon, nor will I be rounding the horn in this boat.     It appears (circumstantially) that the ’81-84 boats were customs or semi customs, typically racing biased.   This aligns with the perception of the production boat (most evident post-’84) as a racing-oriented but cruisable model defined by the constraints of IOR in its twilight.   Seems as though the custom was somewhat repurposed to a production model under a new leader – the Wikipedia comment cited below.   This further jives with the my understanding of the evolution of the IOR  -that dual purpose boats were not as competitive as in the past, and that the racer/cruiser niche was less relevant under this rule.   The 8’ draft of many examples does not suggest cruising as a priority but the existence of the CB model and the relatively posh cabin of the production model speak to C remaining centred in this racer/cruiser niche.  It interesting to read all of this in the context of the marketplace at the time.   Long and the short of this appears to be that its a good fun boat depending on how one intends to use it.     Going to see the boat tomorrow. Biggest concern I can see is ease of shorthanded/singlehanded sailing – this was probably not in scope for the design.     My baseline is a 33-2, which is manageable, due to its handy size.    Second concern is to buy at the right price - resale appeal is not as broad as it could be. Glenn – do you single-hand the 41, and do you (or anyone else) have any wisdom you could share on this?  Thanks as always, Dave   Sent from Mail for Windows From: Glenn Henderson via CnC-ListSent: September 22, 2021 12:17 AMTo: Stus-ListCc: Glenn HendersonSubject: Stus-List Re: C 41 thoughts? I have a 1984 41 and I love it. The hull is not a tortured IOR shape. It is fairly clean. She moves through the water very cleanly. She sails well in light or heavy air. She is perfectly balanced. She will sail upwind with the wheel brake on and sail like on an auto pilot. The Dollar/Boatspeed ratio is very high. I love the interior. Granted, she doesn't have as much room as a modern 41 foot boat but it is well laid out and proportioned well. I love the Nav Station/Office. I put plywood "fillers" in the cockpit to extend the seating for cruising. I wouldn't cruise without them. I cannot cruise long distances in a slow boat or one that cannot go upwind.The 41 suits my purposes just fine. Glenn Henderson  On Sun, Sep 19, 2021 at 11:01 PM G Donald Wagner via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Dave  I own a C 41 CB hull # 93, Der Baron. Bought her new in 1986, and have cruised/raced her ever since. We have enjoyed every minute aboard.Many trophies, and many fine memories. My  crew and I , mostly very senior citizens, are not able to sail very much, so, I am considering the possibility of putting her up for sale. If you have any specific questions about C 41s, I can answer most of them. They are great boats, easily sailed, and sail to the PHRF  Rating here on the Chesapeake. Feel free to call me, 443-994-5669, and We can talk about C 41s. I'm a dedicated C, Having previously owned a C 30 for 12 years prior to purchasing the 41. Never had a Keel/ mast step issue on the 41 . I did experience it on the 30.My boat is essentially like the standard brochure:    Tall 3 spreader rig    Yanmar 3GM35 HF   Forward facing Nav Station   aft quarter berth    Full spinnaker Gear with winch upgrades. Yes, windows have been a problem, and I have had them replaced. You need to pay attention to them.I've up graded the track hardware, traveller hardware, the spinnaker pole (carbon fiber), the electronics, etc.The rig has been unstepped, inspected, stripped, and repainted with Awl-Grip.The hatches have been stripped, and powder coated prior to replacing the acrylic lenses Don WagnerC 41 CB Der Baron West River, MD   -Original Message-----From: Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>Cc: syerd...@gmail.comSent: Sun, Sep 19, 2021 8:41 pmSubject: Stus-List C 41 thoughts?   Good evening all. Am looking to stretch out a bit, and much as I’ve enjoyed and invested in my ’85 33-2 Windstar, I’m exp

Stus-List Re: wind instrument

[Dave via CnC-List]

My Raymarine compass sensor was WAY off until I updated the firmware and then ran the calibration routine.   A known issue, but one not often directly discussed.   Dave  Sent from Mail for Windows From: Shawn Wright via CnC-ListSent: September 21, 2021 6:39 PMTo: Stus-ListCc: Shawn WrightSubject: Stus-List Re: wind instrument I like the idea of an integrated compass and wind sensor, as I am currently dealing with possible compass calibration issues; either that or my boat points 7-10deg higher on the port tack, which doesn't seem likely. As a result, I don't pay much attention to the TWA/AWA numbers and go by telltales and windex. I've done the compass calibration procedure, but it still always shows the boat crabbing slightly, so the heading sensor and/or wind sensor must be slightly off.--Shawn Wrightshawngwri...@gmail.comS/V Callisto, 1974 C 35https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto  On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 3:24 PM Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:Very interested in this one.  Intriguing sensor.Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 21, 2021, at 3:57 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  wrote:Does anyone have experience with the Airmar WS-150WX?    This is an ultra-sonic transducer that seems to measure just about everything:  true/apparent wind, pressure, temp, gps, compas, pitch & roll, NMEA 0183/2000. I currently have a regular cable-run Raymarine wind system.   It always works.  -Paul E.1981 C Landfall 38 S/V Johanna RoseFort Walton Beach, FL http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/   On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 1:00 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List  wrote:Hi, I am starting to think about adding the wind instrument to the boat. The main reason is for being able to feed the data (wind direction) to the EV-100 autopilot. I have a SeatalkNG network on the boat. I don’t have a Raymarine MFC, though (I have a small Garmin chartplotter, instead). I am a minimalist (you could say “cheap”), so e.g., I don’t have a Navpod on the binnacle; rather I have two individual RAM mount pods (for the chartplotter and one for the p70s (the autopilot control head). I unstep the mast for every winter, so I am biased towards a wireless unit. I have a few questions: - Any recommendations for the wind instrument (Raymarine, Garmin, B)? My first choice would be a unit that talks NMEA 2000 (SeatalkNG) (as opposed to an analog unit that requires an extra device (iTC-5?) to connect. But this is mainly to control the costs. - With limited space at the helm, what is the minimum requirement to feed the wind data to the EV-100 autopilot? I don’t think I need the detailed wind angle displayed, as long as the AP can follow. Though I could put the wind display somewhere else (on the bulkhead?). But if that display is not required AND I could save the cost by not including it, I might be fine with that. - Any strong recommendations against the wireless? - Any other suggestions or recommendations? Thanks Marek 1994 C270 ”Legato”Ottawa, ON  Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List C 41 thoughts?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Good evening all. Am looking to stretch out a bit, and much as I’ve enjoyed and invested in my ’85 33-2 Windstar, I’m exploring larger options.  Goal is shorthanded or singlehanded daysailing and local cruising on the great lakes and possibly Bahamas/Caribbean.  I’ll likely upgrade to a more substantial passagemaker when I retire in 5 years or so.     A centreboard C 41 has piqued my interest of late, and if anyone can shed some light on the evolution of the model and offer some informed commentary or critique, I would greatly appreciate it. I cannot find any reference to how many 41s were made, and I have not seen any for sale that were made prior to ’84, though apparently it was first produced in ’81.   They were available with a variety of keels, mostly 7’ or more. Photos of the earliest 41’s especially are very familiar to me, clearly they are big sisters to  the 33-2 and 35-3, sharing many features, hardware and materials.    I am aware too that the 41 also shares a few of the 33-2/35-3 “gotchas” – leaking windows and keel sump/mast step failures.   Is the keel sump/mast step problem limited to fin-keeled boats, or is this also a problem with centreboard boats? Some seem to have had the handy but butt-cracking bridge deck traveller (like the 33-2) filled with teak and relocated.  Brochures show the traveller at the wheel and also on the cabin top.  Was traveller location an option, or have many owners relocated this in the interest of comfort?  Thoughts?   Some have forward-facing nav stations, with the typical smaller boat open quarter berth, some (seemingly  later models) with the bigger-boat  rear-facing  nav station and an “aft cabin”  (more like an enclosed quarter berth) Some have with an opening tailgate through the transom, some not. The galley cabinetry appears to have varied also. And finally – a google search will turn up a fair bit of criticism of the model, this surprised me.  Much of it is the usual opinion-fuelled opinion (repeated ad nauseam), and some the usual sweeping generalizations regarding IOR boats.  (I don’t plan to fly a spinnaker downwind in huge seas)  Wikipedia curiously states:    “Designed by Robert Ball at the request of C’s new owner Robert plaxton, who wanted [an IOR design]”Many commentators also suggest that the 41 is particularly racing-biased, and therefore makes a less than ideal choice for single or shorthanded sailing.   The brochure suggests the 41 was a production development of a custom racing model.   I will likely visit the boat this week, and can certainly form my own opinion much of this, but would very much welcome any thoughts.   Many thanks in advance! Dave  -  33-2 (for now).      Sent from Mail for Windows Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: A4 Alternator

[Dave via CnC-List]

Neil, I went down this rabbit hole awhile back. There’s some useful info on the marinehowto site, a couple of alternator-specific articles and a section in the article below covering “do I really need a high performance alternator”.    Rod, who runs the site is knowledgeable and thorough.    https://marinehowto.com/automotive-alternators-vs-deep-cycle-batteries/ Now the opinion part:   For my use-case, with a 2gm20 yanmar, the balmar alternator/smart reg didn’t really hit the mark.   As pointed out by joe, these setups are not cheap vs a stock-type unit.     My takeaway was that with sufficient engine power, a larger house bank supporting heavy electricity use,  (likely involving air conditioning or 120v ac appliances and an inverter) and a situation where charging was more critical (like long distance cruising) these big alternators/smart regulators come into their own. Dave – 33-2  Sent from Mail for Windows From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-ListSent: September 15, 2021 6:30 AMTo: Stus-ListCc: Neil Gallagher; j...@dellabarba.comSubject: Stus-List Re: A4 Alternator Note you will need one of these to fit a Balmar, 10si clone, or other alternator that isn’t a stock Motorola onto an A4:https://moyermarine.com/product/alternator-support-arm-late-model-ovel_03_222/ Balmar does make alternators that fit, but be prepared to spend $ if you buy one new. Moyer sells a couple of them too. What kind of batteries are you charging?  Joe Della BarbaCoquina C 35 MK IKent Island MD USA   From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List  Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2021 8:24 PMTo: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List Cc: Neil Gallagher Subject: Stus-List Re: A4 Alternator Joe,Thanks, that's good info.Neil GallagherWeatherly 35-1Glen Cove, NYOn 9/14/2021 6:48 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:The 60 amp Balmar I have fit the mounts just fine.Here is a thread about installing it.Balmar Alternator Installation and Test - Moyer Marine Atomic 4 Community - Home of the Afourians (moyermarineforum.com) I only paid around $60 for it if I recall correctly. A new Balmar is very expensive and probably not worth putting on an A4. Due to the pulley ratios you are not likely to get more than 50-60 amps out of any alternator you put on there.  Joe Della BarbaCoquinaC 35 MK I From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List  Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2021 6:31 PMTo: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List Cc: Neil Gallagher Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: anyone gone lithium? Joe,Also a bit of thread creep, but I'm in the process of rebuilding or replacing my alternator on the A4.  Does the Balmar fit on the engine without significant modifications?Neil GallagherWeatherly 35-1Glen Cove NYThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu  Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Dave via CnC-List]

“If the BMS does disconnect for high-voltage cutoff while the Alternator is charging / spinning then it's going to blow something up in the alternator. To mitigate that I've been running our starting bank in parallel while the motor is running (and most of the time sailing as well).” Adding a ACR (aka VSR) addresses this.  Useful device with lead acid as well. Dave 33-2 Sent from Mail for Windows From: Chad Osmond via CnC-ListSent: September 14, 2021 2:49 PMTo: Stus-ListCc: Chad OsmondSubject: Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium? I bought 3x 100ah 12v Xubi LiFePo4 batteries from Alibaba. Shipping was around 6-8 weeks with COVID.I'm running 3x in parallel and so far they've been great. One 3 day trip with motoring, and day cruising where I run the fridge and AP. So far no issues. If the BMS does disconnect for high-voltage cutoff while the Alternator is charging / spinning then it's going to blow something up in the alternator. To mitigate that I've been running our starting bank in parallel while the motor is running (and most of the time sailing as well).  There is a relay that is available from Marine How-To that combines the house and starting banks when the voltage is above 13.4v or something like that. The Xubi batteries are drop-in style and have a charging rate of 50A and discharge of 100A, so plenty of power in and out for my needs. We have a newer 40A charger that has no issues charging. Usually my 30 minutes of motoring with the 2GM20 40A alternator charges me back up to 90+% so I don't worry about topping them off. On Tue, Sep 14, 2021 at 9:27 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  wrote:My batteries are about shot and I am thinking of going to lithium batteries Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: universal M20 diesel question

[Dave via CnC-List]

Thanks Neil – We did check for fuel returning but only at varying no-load RPMs, not under load.There should be no air or water in the system- we also ran it from a jury rigged tank, no filter, clean fuel, so I’m pretty sure those basics were eliminated.No offense taken – most of the time people do miss these things.We haven’t torn things down too far yet.   Any way to check for a sticking governor? Dave Sent from Mail for Windows From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-ListSent: September 7, 2021 10:13 PMTo: Dave via CnC-ListCc: Neil GallagherSubject: Stus-List Re: universal M20 diesel question Dave,Sure sounds like a fuel issue.  The governor does not restrict flow, it sets the rotation of the plungers in the HP pump which controls how much fuel in delivered to the injectors.  The fuel not used or which leaks by the pump plungers is what returns to the tank.  Under light load you'll hardly see any return fuel, more as the load goes up.  The governor works by a balance between a spring and flyweights, the throttle lever adjusts the spring tension and engine speed sets the flyweight position.  A quick look at the M20 tech manual shows the governor is right in the HP pump assembly, it's possible the governor is sticking and causing slow response but it may also be worn fuel pump.  You'd have to pull the whole assembly and send for rebuild.  Cost me about $700 for that on an M3-20B engine last year on my club launch.  Before that extreme, however, let me ask the more obvious questions (don't mean to offend, just asking): any water in the fuel?  That could give a slow response, or maybe an air leak on the fuel supply hoses, though it sounds like you've checked that?Neil GallagherWeatherly 35-1Glen Cove, NYOn 9/7/2021 9:16 PM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:Evening all.   Trying to help a neighbour here with a diesel issue.   His engine will rev freely at idle but with the transmission engaged in either forward or reverse, revs increase very  slowly and only to 1800-2000 RPM on the tach.   (whether tach is accurate or not, RPM under load is much lower than no-load, and  RPM increases quite slowly.)We have verified that neither the exhaust system nor the fuel supply to the high pressure pump is obstructed.  Air Intake is clear.  The speed lever works smoothly to its full travel.   The compression release is not engaged.  The engine runs a new facet electric fuel pump with plenty of flow.When the engine is running, no fuel returns to the tank via the return line.  The return line is not blocked, at least not downstream from the return barb at the injector.  I am not sure under what circumstances the fuel should return to the tank in a diesel, as the return occurs after the high pressure pump.   All This leads me to suspect a fuel (volume) problem but i am not exactly sure where to look next.      I believe all that’s left are injectors and high pressure pump.  The high pressure pump has a governor, not sure if that functions by restricting fuel flow. Any thoughts? Many thanks!   Dave 33-2 Sent from Mail for Windows Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu  Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List universal M20 diesel question

[Dave via CnC-List]

Evening all.   Trying to help a neighbour here with a diesel issue.   His engine will rev freely at idle but with the transmission engaged in either forward or reverse, revs increase very  slowly and only to 1800-2000 RPM on the tach.   (whether tach is accurate or not, RPM under load is much lower than no-load, and  RPM increases quite slowly.)We have verified that neither the exhaust system nor the fuel supply to the high pressure pump is obstructed.  Air Intake is clear.  The speed lever works smoothly to its full travel.   The compression release is not engaged.  The engine runs a new facet electric fuel pump with plenty of flow.When the engine is running, no fuel returns to the tank via the return line.  The return line is not blocked, at least not downstream from the return barb at the injector.  I am not sure under what circumstances the fuel should return to the tank in a diesel, as the return occurs after the high pressure pump.   All This leads me to suspect a fuel (volume) problem but i am not exactly sure where to look next.      I believe all that’s left are injectors and high pressure pump.  The high pressure pump has a governor, not sure if that functions by restricting fuel flow. Any thoughts? Many thanks!   Dave 33-2 Sent from Mail for Windows Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Matt – thanks for the detail, very very much appreciated. Yes likely VC tar.   My Dutch/Scottish heart also warms to the reuse of a disposable brush, gripped in a very tight fist.        Dave Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Matt JanssenSent: April 5, 2021 11:03 AMTo: Stus-List; Dave SCc: Della Barba, JoeSubject: Re: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal? Dave, Is it possible you are trying to remove VC Tar or similar?  Coal tar epoxy is the corrosion protection system we typically spec for steel sheets in a marine environment. Bluewater makes a bottom barrier coat for boats, but I suspect it's for commercial use on steel hull barges etc.  If you're dealing with VC Tar as Joe and others have suggested, then misery loves company. I am the final stretch of the same project. For me the tar was softer, it smelled terrible and was still somewhat tacky in warm temps. After much trial and error I settled on two techniques that worked for me. Chemical stripping - I used Citristrip and a glass cleaner (4-inch wide razor blade) in lieu of a putty knife. With the razor blade (lots of replacement blades), and a little practice, i was able to peel off two or three layers of paint at a time and leave a smooth fair surface. On the tar, i was able to get between the tar and gel coat without gouging the hull. My boat was raced by the original owner and had a decent bottom, but had suffered from paint build up. While this sounds tedious, it minimized the fairing and longboarding. The rub is the stripper needs the temps to be close to 60-F (15-C) to work and needs to sit for at least an hour or two. If you're in direct sunlight or windy, you'll want to cover the stripper with plastic. You want to avoid letting it dry out. (Another boat in the yard didn't use plastic, but just mist the gel with a water bottle to keep it from drying out.) With the citristrip, i was able to apply it and leave it overnight covered with plastic and then come back to scrape it the next day. It seemed to work up to about 3-layers of paint.   Mechanical Removal - Unfortunately, I counted 12 separate colors of bottom paint before getting to the tar, i'm located in the NE and with a hard launch date, i had to use a mix of chemical and mechanical removal. The only system that worked for me without destroying the hull shape was a 6-inch random orbital sander using 80-grit Mirka Abranet pads. The Mirka are a mesh pad and do not clog with the tar as long as your dust collection system is decent. I used a home depot dust stopper  separator before the shop vac. It is stupid expensive for what it is... but it really works and saves your shop vac filters. I could get 10 to 15 minutes out of the Mirka pads. I've gone through close to 30-pads in the project. I tried using traditional 36-grit pads but they were dulled after about 5-minutes. Also tried the Bahco carbide scrapers. Those worked well for level surfaces (e.g the rudder that you drop and put on saw horses) but it was tough sledding to work on your back under the hull. If you do go that route, bevel the edges of the blades and you won't gouge the hull.   If you're still here, a few other lessons I learned the hard way.  Managing heat on the pads was important. The Mirka pads do not insulate the hooks from heat. So you'll absolutely need to use pad protectors. If you don't, you'll melt the hooks on your sander and your disks will be flying off the sander by lunch on the first day. I lost a few days waiting for new parts when this happened to me... I also found lighter pressure on the sander worked better. Letting the pad spin faster allowed it to chew more of the material away. Easier on the shoulders too.  Switching back to the stripper, I applied with a chip brush. Someone in the yard pointed out that i should only be brushing in one direction. Most have a wax in them that helps prevent drying out. Applying in one direction certainly helped increase the working time of the gel. Being dutch, i was able to wash the chip brush in hot water and used one brush for the whole job.  Best of luck with the project -- cheers, matt C 27 Mk VEDUAMRYC, NJ   On Mon, Apr 5, 2021 at 8:51 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  wrote:I think this might mean coal tar epoxy barrier coat, which is nice until it starts coming off ☹ JoeCoquinaThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List No longer receiving emails.... how can I get this restored?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Many thanks, Dave 
Windstar 33-2

Sent from my iPad
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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Surprised at the comment on the yanmar 2gm, I have one in my 33-2 and no such 
complaint.  Perhaps I just don’t know any better.
The 34 was on my shopping list and I looked at several.   Iirc, the balsa core 
extends into or close to the bilge so a damp core in this area is worth 
checking for.Good luck!
Dave


Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 12, 2020, at 2:11 PM, Della Barba, Joe  wrote:
> 
> I used to sail on a 34 that had the 2 cylinder Yanmar. That thing would shake 
> the entire boat. Some had Atomic 4s I think, which are much smoother, but any 
> original A4 that is not FWC is living on borrowed time at this point. 
> Actually ANY RWC engine from the 80s not in a fresh water lake is.
> 
> Joe
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and 
> Maryann Read via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 1:41 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: John and Maryann Read 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?
> 
> Owned our 82 for 21 seasons.  Absolutely love it.  Original Yanmar 3GM which 
> is just the right power (do not recommend a smaller engine)  No major design 
> or build issues just issues of being such a tender age :-)  Of course get a 
> competent survey of hull rig and all systems.  Our main hatch cover had 
> delamination of core as screws around the edge went through the balsa core, 
> they leaked and core rotted.  Removed cover, installed solid glass around 
> edges for screws, new balsa and glass, reinstalled.  Filled 2 screw holes in 
> deck with epoxy reassembled and no more leaks :-)
> Sails like a dream.  Very sensitive to trim and weight distribution.  Races 
> with the best of them need a crew of 6 or 7.  Easily cruises for 4.  2 can 
> easily sail her.  Is designed for light airs but can handle high winds and 
> seas well.  The designer Rob Ball has one - need I say more?  Contact off 
> list if need anything else.
> 
> 
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C 34
> Noank, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Rob Ball comment on 41 "robustness"

[Dave via CnC-List]

In my 33-2 I eliminated the one creak I had by cutting the overhead liner out 
of the hanging locker interior and tabbing the bulkheads directly to the deck 
after filling the gaps with glass-filled epoxy, and then creating a nice 
raduised fillet.  I used epoxy and 2 layers (iirc) of biaxial stitch mat.  
Other 33-2s seem to have been built this way, while mine had the bulkhead 
simply fitted into a groove in the overhead liner. The 1985-6 33-2, and I 
presume others of the era (35-3, 41?) had the hull and deck fastened with large 
blobs of polyester putty in some places.  This had fractured in the hanging 
locker area, I cut it out and packed the gap with epoxy/chopped glass to 
reinforce.   
I also tabbed the liner to the hull under the v-Berth where the attachment was 
poorly done at the factory and had fractured.  Same process but with a limber 
hole incorporated.
Finally, a poor repair was cut out and replaced where the port-side bulkhead 
meets the hull, same process.
In each case this reinforcement was added inside a locker, so no cosmetic 
concern.  (Upgrade potentially)
FWIW I wouldn’t hesitate to do this on any production boat, but would only make 
the effort if attaching the bulkhead directly to the hull or deck.

Dave 
Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 12:07 PM, Bailey White  wrote:
> 
> Has anyone added material to tie the bulkheads to the liners for those 
> earlier boats?  I wasn't sure if the liner could take it or if some work 
> would need to be done to grind out the liner and fiberglass directly to the 
> hull laminate, which would be more involved and error prone.
> 
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Rob Ball 
> To: Shawn Wright , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> 
> Cc: 
> Bcc: 
> Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 12:39:15 +
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rob Ball comment on 41 "robustness"
> Earlier C’s had the bulkheads ‘floating’ in the headliner groove, and as we 
> got into larger sizes (bigger loads) those tie downs were the solution.
> 
> On the C 40, there were a lot of warranty claims for those leaks, and 
> eventually it was decided to stiffen up things to prevent this.  The first 
> boat was the new C 35 and the bulkheads were ‘tabbed’ to the deck – much 
> stiffer . . . . BUT . . . . it meant that the headliner, which is installed 
> on the deck when it’s upside down, had to leave space for the tabbing after 
> the deck is placed on the hull.  And then those spaces had to be covered up 
> with separate pieces to blend with the headliner after the tabbing . . . . 
> Much more labor and cost . . .
> 
> But – a much stiffer boat – the sailmakers loved the straighter headstay  . .
> 
> Victory by the designer over the accountants . . . .
> 
> The downside, other than cost is that when you hit a rock – the damage is 
> more extensive, because the boat is now actually more brittle  . . .
> 
>  
> 
> Rob Ball   C 34
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Re: Stus-List Transom cover to protect from sun

[Dave. via CnC-List]

I’ve not thought of the canvas cover idea but I did have a local Seattle guy 
give me a quote to cover the entire transom with vinyl matching the hull color 
and with the name on top. I think I would have gone that route if we were not 
planning to sell SLY. The reverse shear transom sure takes a beating from the 
sun, even in the Northwest.
Dave.
SLY
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 6, 2020, at 2:06 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The thread on paint was timely.  I commented that I was beginning to see some 
> fading on Touche's transom as it faces the sun in my Pensacola slip.  Red 
> seems to be particularly susceptible to fading.
> 
> I just talked to my canvas maker about making a custom "transom cover".  The 
> cover would cover the rebuilt teak taffrail and the transom.  Any lister's 
> thoughts on the pros and cons of draping canvas down the transom?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Dumb question of the day - life rings, horseshoe or

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Can’t help but jump in. 
If someone goes overboard and there are enough people on board, someone should 
be assigned to watch the mob at all times. A person in the water can be hard to 
see and easy to lose track of. Learned that in the CG. Also, we have a friend 
(female) who fell overboard from her large boat while single handing in the 
Northwest. Somehow she grabbed the trailing dinghy as it went by and was able 
to pull herself up to the transom and get back on board. I sure wouldn’t bet on 
that to work very often.
Dave. 
SLY 1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 3, 2020, at 7:26 PM, James Nichols via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 100% agree Andy.  I think that 50/50 chance of getting back on board is only
> if someone sees you go overboard also.  If you are on watch alone, your
> chances drop to pretty much nil.
> 
> James
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
> Burton via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2020 11:55 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Andrew Burton
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dumb question of the day - life rings, horseshoe or
> cushion?
> 
> 
> 
> One of the things I stress before we head offshore is that if someone goes
> overboard, absolutely everything that floats should be tossed in after them.
> You're trying to create a debris field to aid in locating the MOB, not just
> give them something to hang on to.
> 
> Another thing I stress is that if you go overboard, you stand at best a
> 50/50 chance of being retrieved, so stay on the boat! 
> 
> Andy
> 
> Masquerade
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> 
> https://burtonsailing.com/
> phone  +401 965 5260
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Stus-List SLY 4 Sale

[Dave. via CnC-List]

After a lifetime of great racing and cruising its time to part with our beloved 
C 33 mk1. She is a great boat for a small family to race and cruise. In our 
opinion she has been the perfect boat. Not too big or too small. Check out the 
listing on Craigslist Seattle.
Dave.
1975 C 33
“SLY”

Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 replacement

[Dave. via CnC-List]

I did this a couple of years ago and found it much easier than anticipated. I 
was dealing with an early C 33 so different configuration. I built a plywood 
platform to cover the cabin sole so as not to scratch it. I used a chain fall 
attached to the main halyard to lift and a block and tackle to drag it forward 
from under the companion way. I tied the halyard to the boom so when the engine 
was high enough I could swing the boom with the engine over the dock and 
lowered it into a dock cart. Once you have all the stuff off the A4 is pretty 
light.
Dave.
1975 C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 23, 2019, at 7:06 PM, Ian Matthew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> After years of abuse and keeping it on life support, my A4 finally decided 
> enough is enough.  So now I need to remove it and put a replacement back in.  
> My budget didn't allow for going to a diesel but I have a rebuilt A4 coming 
> from a person who rebuilds these as a hobby.  He has a very good reputation 
> for the quality of work.
> 
> I have been persuaded by two sailing buddies (both of who race Cal 40's) that 
> this isn't too difficult a job and they will help me do the replacement.  I 
> am looking for any tips and gotcha's that this venerable group can provide me 
> before I get started.
> 
> One major issue I can see is how to lift the engine off the mounts when the 
> engine is under the cockpit.  My engine builder who has done this a few times 
> (but can't any more due to his age) suggested I slide a 6x4 under the engine 
> then use a 2x4 as a pivot and raise the engine by having someone stand on the 
> 6X4.  Then once free of the mounts, gently slide it back into the saloon and 
> lift it out through the companionway.  Has anyone tried this?
> 
> I have lots of able-bodied helpers to help me so manpower won't be a problem. 
>  
> 
> I am going to do all this at the dock, so no crane to help with the lift.  
> And while the engine is out, I'll remove the fuel tank and clean it out.  I'm 
> sure there's crud at the bottom.
> 
> I'll document the experience for the benefit of others and share it once it's 
> done.
> 
> -- 
> Ian Matthew
> "Siento el Viento"  C 29-1
> San Francisco Bay
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List JAM vs Spinnaker Racing

[Dave. via CnC-List]

To me the biggest issue is the rules. You don’t have a game unless there are 
rules whether we’re play a board game, baseball, football, hockey or sailboat 
racing. There is no game unless we are all onboard with the rules. In most 
sports we have umpires or referees to keep everything on the straight and 
narrow but In sailboat racing, for the most part, we referee ourselves and in 
orders to do that we must each know the rules. Our rules may seem very daunting 
and hard to understand but they can be learned and should be by those 
participating in regattas whether they are competing in the JAM or spinnaker 
division. Sometimes those we encourage to participate in racing are not 
interested in taking the time to learn the rules and opt to stay away or hide 
in the JAM division where they think the rules seem less critical. Wrong, rules 
apply and are important in all divisions.
In my option all organizations who sponsor races should also offer racing rule 
clinics on a regular basis. Actually, learning the rules and how to apply them 
can be a fun part of the game and with a beer and some refreshments clinics can 
help all competitors to improve their game and enhance the fleet’s 
participation and togetherness.
My 2 cents. 
Dave. Kaseler
SLY
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 19, 2019, at 10:52 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Same here in Oriental.
> They call it a pursuit race with the varying start and no calamity 
> as you reignited my spark from 29 + year ago and I was hooked immediately!
> Well truth be told I knew I wanted to race and big part of why I bought the 
> C and in amazing condition for the price ! With full spin gear, 2015 sails 
> new canvas ... oh and used 2-3 times a year ! Lol
> 
> John Conklin 
> S/V Halcyon 
> 
>> On Dec 19, 2019, at 11:40 AM, Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Making the plunge from JAM to Spin doesn't need to be terrifying or 
>> expensive (unless you want it to.) You can find a used chute for a couple 
>> hundred bucks online and as others mentioned a few blocks and line and 
>> you're going. Once you've learned to tame the pole and kite then go and 
>> spend the money on those fancy black sails and a new properly cut colorful 
>> one... or dont. Iv'e found that we loose more often not becasue we have 
>> older sails but because we blow a tack or spinnaker douse. All of the money 
>> in the world won't make up the 2 minutes you spend trying to get that 
>> hourglass out of the kite. 
>> 
>> That said, Chicago has a pretty robust racing scene on weekends with 5 major 
>> clubs working together to provide lots of events and variety. In order to 
>> help develop those white sail JAM guys and get them out on weekends where 
>> things are more competitive we started what is referred to as our Casual 
>> series of races. The idea is to remove as many of the barriers as possible; 
>> it's like a drug once you've gotten a taste you're hooked. Basically the RC 
>> assigns a phrf rating to boats without a certificate and then the start is a 
>> 15 minute rolling start. That way folks that are intimidated by jockeying 
>> around can hang back and not be penalized. The course are usually around 
>> 8-10 miles long so plenty of time to make maneuvers etc. We've typically 
>> seen 10-20 boats out on a given saturday and after a few seasons we're 
>> starting to see some of them come out into the racing fleet.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Luke
>> 1985 35-3 Zella
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Installing a 3YM30 in a C 33-I

[Dave. via CnC-List]

I looked into various diesel replacements for my A4 and learned that the 
conversion is difficult and expensive. I chose to replace my old engine with a 
rebuilt A4 from Moyer Marine. Those guys are great and helped me through the 
entire process, long distance. I’m happy with my decision. In our case we carry 
30 gallons of fuel in two tanks. 18 gallons in a tank located in the original 
location under the cockpit sole and another 12 gallon tank located under the 
settee, starboard side immediately forward of the stove. 
Good luck.
Regards,
Dave. Kaseler
SLY 
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 28, 2019, at 11:54 AM, David Paine via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Does anyone out there in C land know of a 33-1 with an installed Yanmar 
> 3YM30?  I ask because I am considering repowering my C 33-1.  I love my 
> atomic 4 but last summer's cruise of over 1000 nm to Cape Breton and beyond 
> (and back) became a logistics challenge due to limited fuel range and storage 
> so I'm playing with the idea of repowering.  I know that there is a 22 vs 15 
> degree v-drive issue so the question is, can it be done or is the 3YM30 
> (which I can get used) too large to fit?
> 
> Thanks for any insight!
> 
> David 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Boat insurance...reimbursement vs. depreciated coverage

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Be careful to understand your insurance policy. Lots of terms like “replacement 
value” or “agreed value” or “new for old” have different definitions. See the 
definitions section of your policy. Sometimes the “agreed value” provision 
applies only in the case of a total loss while a “depreciated value” provision 
is applied in case of a partial loss. If you purchase your insurance from a 
“marine” broker or even a “marine” agent you should be able to get straight 
answers about how claims will be handled but if you are buying your insurance 
from the same person you are buying your home owners or auto coverage you may 
find the broker/agent less knowledgeable about your yacht/boat policy because 
it’s a very different product. And remember that a “broker” works for you while 
an “agent” works for the insurance company. Property/casualty insurances are 
regulated by your state’s insurance commissioner while a true “ marine” policy 
falls under federal jurisdiction. A lower price often equates to less coverage. 
I suggest you be very careful here. Just my opinion. 
Dave. Kaseler
SLY 1975 C 33



Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 11, 2019, at 12:29 PM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have agreed upon value with Allstate.  Straight-up agreed-upon value 
> coverage, 35-40% cheaper than Boat US and Geico.  (Geico's been insuring my 
> cars since the 90's but they wouldn't  / couldn't compete with Allstate.) 
> 
> I'm on an inland lake / that most likely makes a difference.  
> Your actual mileage may vary. 
> 
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five" 
> Lake Lanier, GA
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Test new VHF wire for dummies...

[Dave via CnC-List]

I doubt I meet your requirement however a basic test:

Use a digital ohmmeter  to test for open, (none or poor conductivity)  short 
(no resistance between shield and centre conductor).

You will need a meter, and a short jumper wire with alligator clips each end.  
Use the resistance scale (ohms).   

 To test, measure resistance between the pin and housing.  Should be infinite 
(meaning they are not accidentally connected to each other).   If there is 
conductivity, one of the terminations has allowed the shield to contact the 
conductor.  You will need to redo.

  If ok, then use the jumper cable to connect the pin to the housing at one end 
and measure again at the other.  This time there should be conductivity with 
some resistance (cumulative effect of a long run of cable, out and back)

If the jumper test shows infinite resistance, then you have either jumpered 
poorly or one of the connections  isn’t.  Redo.

Wiggle and yank each connection then test again.

Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 9, 2019, at 11:43 AM, David Risch  wrote:
> 
> I just replaced the VHF wire in my mast and crimped on new connectors.  Would 
> like to test it to make sure all is well before the mast goes up in the 
> spring.  Any suggestions from those much smarter than I regarding these 
> matters?
>  
> Thanks in advance.
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Re: Stus-List C 33 in Victoria

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 2, 2019, at 7:06 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> It was a seizure auction at Oak Bay a couple of weeks ago, so presumably this 
> person is trying to make a few quick dollars. Not saying it's a bad or good 
> boat as I haven't seen it.
> 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Shawn Wright via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: November 2, 2019 8:24 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Shawn Wright 
> Subject: Stus-List C 33 in Victoria
>  
> I don't know the story on this boat, but the price is very cheap!
> 
> https://victoria.craigslist.org/boa/d/oak-bay-south-sailboat-and-33/7011884820.html
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Air Filter Media, Yanmar 3JH2E

[Dave via CnC-List]

Agreed,  run it without the filter as a test.  ( a boat is one of the least 
dusty environments a diesel will see.).Not sure I’d be too concerned about 
getting a ‘high performance’ type for this use, I’d just re-foam the metal 
cone-thing.  Weird you can’t find an OE filter,   No problem for my 2gm.  
I assume you’ve verified that the fuel flow is unimpeded?

Good luck.  

Dave, 33–2.
Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 31, 2019, at 4:15 PM, Gary Nylander  wrote:
> 
> First thing I would try is just to remove the foam part of the air filter and 
> see if that makes a difference, just for a short trip. Even though you 
> cleaned it, there could be some collapse inside.
>  
> Gary
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2019 3:30 PM
> To: C List 
> Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
> Subject: Stus-List Air Filter Media, Yanmar 3JH2E
>  
> Hello all,
>  
> Some of you may remember a few weeks back I was inquiring about an apparent 
> lack of power on our 3JH2E.  This was resulting in the engine, when in 
> forward, not getting up above 2,800 rpm when I used to be able to get up to 
> 3,200. 
>  
> Lots has been happening since then, as we figured out:
>  
> A).  We had a transmission problem (bearings spinning, trans slipping, etc.) 
> that required a rebuilt transmission. 
> B).  I realized that my rather robust job of re-insulating the engine 
> compartment might be causing the engine to starve for air.
> C).  I removed a Panda generator in the port aft locker that was entirely 
> seized.  That included removing and covering a very large air vent measuring 
> 11' x 7" in the side of the locker, meaning that if we were really pooped by 
> a large wave, the boat could ingest a big volume of water while the cockpit 
> drained.  I subsequently heard you folks talk about engine blowers, which my 
> boat never had, and I overlooked.  Had my boat included a blower, I would 
> have known not to entirely cover the vent.
> D).  The "intake silencer" noted in my Yanmar 3JH2E manual and which looked 
> mostly like a metal mesh/stainless cone with holes from the inside is 
> actually removable and has foam that is now clean.  I got a reasonable amount 
> of crud out of it, but I don't want to say it was fully clogged.
>  
> As we got this done, coincidentally the diver came by and cleaned the hull.  
> Here in the warm, shallow Tampa Bay area, we tend to grow stuff pretty 
> quickly in summer and fall, so the timing was perfect.  Once we got all this 
> done we went out and motored and, with one of the engine side panels removed 
> to ensure good airflow (I've not yet addressed the vent where the generator 
> was as of yet), the engine will now go to 3,000 rpm in gear, but still not to 
> 3,200.  It revs to 3,600 WOT at the dock in neutral.  Fuel filters are good, 
> I don't think I have any air leaking into the lines. I'll seriously look for 
> black smoke under hard acceleration thought I have not noticed it in the 
> past. 
>  
> I want to start by eliminating the easy stuff.  like improving airflow.  I 
> tried to price out the filter with Yanmar, but they only sell the complete 
> silencer, metal casing and all for $132.  Sigh.
>  
> I can get green 65 PPI foam online, but there's always the quality issue with 
> Amazon. 
>  
> I can't seem to find an aftermarket K or other high performance filter 
> (which I would prefer instead of relying on foam).
>  
> Once I'm 100% sure the airflow is not restricted, I'll make sure the 
> injectors are really clean, then move to timing & injector testing. etc. as 
> per your previous recommendations. 
>  
> What would you do about replacing the foam/filter?
>  
> Thanks in advance,
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
>  
>  
>  
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar tach issue

[Dave via CnC-List]

Make sure the ground is good by rigging a jumper to bypass the wiring harness.

If tach works then troubleshoot by cleaning ground stud and terminals at 
engine.  If that doesn’t work verify continuity through the ground wire.  

I had exactly this issue, replaced the tach, then determined that the ground 
was oxidized.   Cleaned that up, returned  the tach, (thankfully)  it’s been 
good since.

Basics first.  Good luck.

Dave.  33-2

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 31, 2019, at 5:53 PM, sv Rebecca Leah  wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know anything about Yanmar 4JHE tachs? Rewired my engine, now 
> tach fails to work. Tried new tach no help. 
> Pickup off flywheel shows an ac voltage that increases with rpm. 
> Tacoma desiel had me check cleanliness of pickup. No dirt. 
> At a loss. I need help. 
> 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy 
> Sv Rebecca Leah 
> C LF39
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC wa.
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Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[Dave. via CnC-List]

SLY
1975 C 33  Propulsion rebuilt Atomic 4
David and Susan Kaseler. 
Susan is the racing skipper. 
Bainbridge Island, WA
Puget Sound

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 24, 2019, at 6:37 PM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Bill Dakin
> Tapestry, 81’ C 25-2, 581
> North Texas
> 
> Bill Dakin
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List C Regatta on Lake Ontario

[Dave via CnC-List]

Subject to the usual work-related caveats, I’m interested.

Dave Syer
Windstar 33-2


Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 23, 2019, at 10:42 PM, Michael Crombie  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Glen,
> 
> I'm game!  Perfect excuse to get a new mainsail.
> 
> Mike
> Atacama
> C 33 mkii
> Toronto
> 
>> On Wed, Oct 23, 2019, 4:45 PM Glen Eddie via CnC-List > wrote:
>> Hello everyone,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Just checking in to see if there is any interest in a 2020 regatta on the 
>> north shore of Lake Ontario?  I know the National used to hold the regatta 
>> and it died for various reasons, but it would be great if we could have 
>> something on the lake where it all began.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Glen Eddie
>> 
>> Tel:  416-777-5357
>> 
>> Fax:  1-888-812-2557
>> 
>> Torkin Manes LLP
>> Barristers & Solicitors
>> 
>> This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
>> recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
>> and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received 
>> this message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email 
>> message. Thank you.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
>> Boyer via CnC-List
>> Sent: October-23-19 04:40 PM
>> To: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
>> Cc: Robert Boyer
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 2020 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> If we can hold the 2020 rendezvous at Anchorage Marina in Baltimore, Maggie 
>> and I will host it. giving Josh a break.  I would prefer Oct 2, 3, and 4 but 
>> we are very flexible.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Oct 23, 2019, at 12:05 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> All right folks, 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> With the 2019 Rendezvous only slightly in the rear view mirror, we're 
>> already seeing quite a bit of discussion regarding next year.  I'll take 
>> that as an indication of the success of this year's event!
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Additionally, we are already discussing a location for 2021!  It tentatively 
>> looks like Solomons for 2021.  Dates TBD. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> As for 2020: We are REQUESTING input on locations and dates.  
>> 
>> Weekend dates we are in the early stages of considering are the last weekend 
>> of Sept and the first weekend of Oct. (Sept 25, 26,27 and Oct 2, 3, 4)
>> Previous year's polls have indicated that the highest number of people were 
>> interested in locations on the Chesapeake Bay between Annapolis and 
>> Solomons.  Outliers both further North and South voted but not in 
>> sufficiently high numbers to warrant an immediate venue consideration.
>> I also say that those who attend most in the past get priority vote for 
>> future events.  As such - Rainy Days, La Neige, Coquina, Crazy Legs, Der 
>> Barron, Sea Hawk, SEA YA !, and Ciothog - your input is absolutely requested.
>> A lot of spirit has been generated around Baltimore's Anchorage Marina.
>> All thoughts, inputs, votes, considerations, etc. are more than welcome.  
>> Please!  I'm begging!  I'll re-poll shortly but without input we'll have to 
>> just make executive decisions.  I say it again and again, "This isn't my 
>> event, it is ours.  If no one attends then the event is a failure of 
>> efforts.  I want it to be whatever, where ever, and whenever is best for the 
>> largest number of interested people."
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> 
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 
>> 1989 C 37+
>> 
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Robert Boyer
>> s/v Rainy Days
>> C Landfall 38, Hull #230
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 411 Walnut Street #11447
>> 
>> Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
>> 
>> (443) 994-1802
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Leaving luddite-land...

[Dave via CnC-List]

David, 
There is some information Under “electronics” here:

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/livability.html

Dave 33-2

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 22, 2019, at 5:20 PM, David Risch  wrote:
> 
> A sad day.  I must replace my trusted, hand cranked, ancient Garmin 48 
> (feeding ST60 MFD) that deservedly bit the dust after many years of admirable 
> service. 
>  
> I am thinking Android (not an Apple fan) tablet with waterproof case.   Can 
> those feed too the Raymarine network when tied in down below?   I do not want 
> a chartplotter at the helm for the 98% of the time I don’t need it.
>  
> And does anyone want to sell their unused tablet before I go “Ebaying” about?
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus drive upgrade - UPDATE

[Dave via CnC-List]

It’s a fair question as the wheelpilot works fine in gentle conditions.
I generally sail singlehanded and sometimes in rough or breezy conditions it 
unlatches or partially unlatches itself.  This has been quite a surprise a few 
times, not always a safe one.Have read that many owners rig a bungee cord 
to hold the latch closed.  
I realize it can be adjusted though the plastic bits and means of adjustment 
seem really Marginal to me.   maybe I haven’t spent enough time playing with it.
I don’t like the motor noise.  (Lol)
I’m hoping the drive will be faster, which would help a bit off the wind in 
rougher conditions, which is also when it unlatches.  Again to be fair I 
sometimes carry quite a bit of sail, part of the fun for me.
I guess in the end it doesn’t seem as bulletproof or effective  as the other 
work or upgrades I’ve done, (which, to your point, come at a price) and I don’t 
quite trust it.  
It it fails and I’m solo that would be a real nuisance for me, and I’m 
progressing through longer passages in more challenging conditions as I learn.
I welcome any comments or suggestions.
Dave

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 12, 2019, at 6:13 PM, Paul Fountain  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> 
> Interested why you feel the current unit needs to be replaced. We put the ray 
> system you have on Perception our 33-ll 3 years ago when we upgraded our 
> electronics so far it’s performed as well as the Navico wheel pilot it 
> replaced, and as Dennis has said they work well! With our short season I 
> could not justify the expense and effort to put in the octopus unit, which I 
> really wanted to use.
> 
> Used the saved funds towards the rest of the electronics upgrade. 
> 
> Paul
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2019 11:13:56 AM
> To: C Stus List 
> Cc: Dave S 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus drive upgrade - UPDATE
>  
> Had an exchange (after some effort) with the folks at octopus drives and 
> here’s the result:
> 
> 
> 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> The boat is a 1985 C 33 mkii, and it displaces around 10,000 lbs.  it is 
>>> currently fitted with a 2015 Raymarine ev100 wheelpilot system.  This 
>>> system includes a control unit - the acu-100 - which can provide 7A of 
>>> current to a drive unit.  the acu-100 has provision for a rudder position 
>>> sensor, but one is not currently installed.   It does not have electrical 
>>> connections for a clutch.
>>> I am not happy with the wheel drive for a variety of reasons and would like 
>>> to install a below-deck linear drive. 
>>> Unfortunately, Most larger and especially hydraulic drives require more 
>>> than the 7A current available from the ev-100, meaning I would have to 
>>> upgrade to a larger unit (acu) in addition to acquiring the drive itself 
>>> and hardware.
>>>  
>>> It appears however that the octopus RS drive is designed more or less for 
>>> this sort of application, though I do have some questions and have been 
>>> unable to find consistent application information.
>>>  
>>> -Is this drive compatible with the Raymarine system described above?
>>> No it is not, I believe the EV100 does not have a solenoid/clutch output.. 
>>> though the 7A max is no problem the EV200 would be the minimum requirement
>>> -how does the clutch engage/disengage electrically?  Would assume 12v 
>>> either engages or disengages the clutch, and this could be accomplished 
>>> with a switch if necessary.
>>> Engaged and disengaged by the ECU  
>>> Is it even necessary given the “joggle the wheel” clutch disengagement 
>>> feature of the RS drive?  (You could have the clutch engaged by the motor 
>>> voltage, then disengage manually in the absence of that voltage, if I 
>>> understand correctly)
>>> It still requires a joggle of the wheel to disengage the pin activated by 
>>> the solenoid
>>> - is this the drive your experts would recommend for this application?   Is 
>>> there a better option?
>>> This is the preferred drive for smaller displacement sailboats due to its 
>>> lower amp draw and less wheel resistance compared to the hydraulic linear 
>>> drives
>>> -Any other advice?
>>> Upgrade to a EV200 or any other pilot with clutch/solenoid output
>>> 
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Stus-List ‘69 Redwing for sale C$3500

[Dave via CnC-List]

Just saw the ad, know nothing of boat or owner.

Dave
33-2 Windstar 


https://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/norfolk-county/classic-c-c/1461269013?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Sent from my iPad___

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus drive upgrade

[Dave via CnC-List]

Answering my own question here - for the record.   It would appear that the 
acu-100 is limited in the current it can deliver to a drive, and is therefore 
only recommended for the smallest types.  I expect though, that this could be 
overcome by using the acu to operate relays of  adequate ampacity.
See below.

http://forum.raymarine.com/printthread.php?tid=3585

Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 3, 2019, at 9:17 AM, David Risch  wrote:
> 
> Without a rudder indicator and compass and their inputs your flying blind
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Tom Buscaglia via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Thursday, October 3, 2019 1:42:36 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
> Subject: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus drive upgrade
>  
> I am planning on doing the same, though I am planning on going with the 
> Raymarine drive.  As I understand it the AC 100 is not compatible with the 
> drive and I’ll have to go with the AC 100.  Raymarine offered a modest 
> discount with the trade in.  As I remebmber it was $400 plus the old AC100.
> 
> No idea about the Octopus drive.
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
> 
> 
> On Oct 2, 2019, at 9:44 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2019 21:56:20 -0400
>> From: Dave S 
>> To: C Stus List 
>> Subject: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus drive upgrade
>> Message-ID: <92a7e462-73df-4a4d-bb7d-a32dadf48...@gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Looking to upgrade my Raymarine EV100/p70/acu100/ wheel drive to a 
>> below-deck linear actuator.Octopus has an electric linear drive that 
>> appears to be a good choice for the tight confines of a 33-2
>> 
>> http://octopusdrives.com/products/type-rs-sailboat-drives/
>> 
>> Looks like I?d need the drive and a tiller arm. 
>> 
>> Any suggestions as to a source for the tiller arm?
>> 
>> Wondering if the acu-100 is compatible with the octopus type RS?
>> 
>> Has anyone done this conversion?   Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>> 
>> Thanks, Dave 
>> Windstar 33-2
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)

[Dave. via CnC-List]

OOOPS. How about 1975? I have a 1965 VW 21 window transporter, does that count?
Dave.
SLY
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 26, 2019, at 9:58 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dave, you have a 1965 33-1? I'd like to see photos of your boat! thanks
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4
> 
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-
> From: Dave. via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: kaselers 
> Sent: Thu, Sep 26, 2019 12:46 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)
> 
> Its always great to hear from another 33-1 owner. These are great boats. 
> Prefect size with great sailing characteristics. We have won many PHRF races 
> in ours. In our case, a prior owner removed the window frames entirely and 
> using a double sided foam tape type material stuck the windows directly to 
> the cabin house. We have replaced the tape twice in our 30 something years of 
> ownership but are not troubled with window leaks. The job is not easy and 
> requires cutting many short pieces of this foam tape to get around the 
> corners but we then screw the plexiglass to the house which compresses the 
> foam and creates a seal. 
> Good luck,
> Dave.
> SLY
> 1965 C 33-1
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Its always great to hear from another 33-1 owner. These are great boats. 
Prefect size with great sailing characteristics. We have won many PHRF races in 
ours. In our case, a prior owner removed the window frames entirely and using a 
double sided foam tape type material stuck the windows directly to the cabin 
house. We have replaced the tape twice in our 30 something years of ownership 
but are not troubled with window leaks. The job is not easy and requires 
cutting many short pieces of this foam tape to get around the corners but we 
then screw the plexiglass to the house which compresses the foam and creates a 
seal. 
Good luck,
Dave.
SLY
1965 C 33-1

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 26, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Evan Kane via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The metal-framed windows on my 33-1 all leak, and the (vinyl?) spline is 
> pulling away at the corners and looks bad. The leak is between the frame and 
> the plexi, not the frame and the fiberglass. 
> 
> I’m aware that holland marine and south shore sell the spline but at 
> relatively large expense. 
> 
> The local window shop didn’t have anything matching in stock but recommended 
> picking something from CR Laurence’s options ($20-40 for a 100 ft roll), but 
> I can’t tell which would work best. 
> 
> What is the list using for replacement spline?
> 
> Also, do you recommend butyl tape or 3m vhb tape or other products for 
> sealing the plexi to the frame?
> 
> Please excuse any technical errors using the list on my part, this is my 
> first post (likely of many)
> 
> Evan
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Stus-List 33-2 portlight material

[Dave via CnC-List]

Evening all - have searched the archives and have found a great deal of info on 
adhesives and the replacement process, however not a lot on the material.

I understand the windows are acrylic (plexiglass) can anyone please confirm the 
thickness?  (Mine are leaking, but still installed)

I know that some have used uv and scratch resistant polycarbonate .  (Can’t 
locate the post). Any thoughts?

Is the material used for the portlights the same as for the (now quite crazed) 
hatches?  

Many Thanks in advance.

Dave 
Windstar 33-2 

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List 1981 C 34

[Dave via CnC-List]

When I was boat shopping a few years back here on Lake Ontario, 34’s were 
fairly common and could easily be had for less than C$20k.  More needy examples 
quite a bit less, especially if a broker is not involved.  I doubt the price 
has changed much.

Dave
Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 23, 2019, at 2:48 PM, Nathan Post  wrote:
> 
> Steve,
> 
> I have a 1981 C CB version which we bought in June 2018. It is a fun boat 
> which sails really well and is comfortable for coastal cruising. 
> 
> Prices vary a lot with condition and what it comes with and where you are 
> located. Mine was pretty bare bones with old main and jib (had a sail loft 
> fix them only to have new rips a few months later), broken water heater, 
> broken propane system, head hoses needed to be replaced, missing parts and 
> had been sitting on the hard for 2 years so the cushions we mildewed etc. the 
> hull is solid with no soft spots although there are some problem areas in the 
> deck that I want to fix at some point.  Westerbeker 20B2 diesel engine had a 
> bad fuel pump relay which was a $30 part, but it was not running when we 
> bought the boat because of that.  
> 
> We paid $7500 US for the boat. Not sure if that was a good deal in the end or 
> not. We put ~11k in so far (not counting marina costs, haul and storage fees) 
> and lots of sweat equity in getting most systems working over the last year, 
> including new WH, water pump, battery shore charger, rebuilt prop, dripless 
> shaft seal, new foam in the cushions, new cruising sails, some new running 
> rigging, fenders, dock lines, buying safety equipment, a rigid vang, etc. 
> etc. So we have an $18k boat at this point which is mostly in working order 
> although there are always things that need fixing and enhancements that would 
> be nice. I didn’t realize how much a dodger would cost (~5k) and we don’t  
> have one so if your boat comes with one in decent shape that is worth a bit.  
> Same goes for a working autopilot and self-tailing winches.
> 
> Old boats always can always use more boat bucks so plan on that.  It might be 
> better to buy a boat where the previous owner did a bunch of the upgrades - 
> on the other hand I get new stuff the way I want it. In any case, if the 
> sails are crispy and all systems are working and it is reasonably well 
> equipped and clean then something in the $16-$24k US range might be 
> reasonable I think.  Lots of recent upgrades, good sail selection, and very 
> clean, then maybe even a bit more. If not, then it should be significantly 
> less I think but you will put most of that money in regardless. 
> 
> Hope that helps.  Not sure how the market compares further north.  Get a 
> survey done and if it looks good  get it and have fun sailing!
> 
> - -
> Nathan Post
> S/V Wisper 
> 1981 C 34
> Lynn, MA, USA
> 
>> On Aug 23, 2019, at 2:04 PM, Stephen via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I live in Nova Scotia and have the opportunity to purchase a C 34. 
>> Assuming that the boat is in good condition with no major structural issues, 
>> what would be a reasonable price range?
>> The pictures show a clean boat which looks like it’s been well maintained. 
>> It does have the Yanmar diesel and the current owner says the sails are in 
>> good shape.
>> Thanks in advance for your responses.
>> Steve McCarthy 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Hitachi 55A alternator question - 12.63 v output...

[Dave via CnC-List]

Thanks Steve, will look int that further, how to test.  lots to learn on this 
as I research repair and possible upgrade.
Dave

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 10, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Steve Thomas  wrote:
> 
> Yes there is most likely a problem with your voltage regulator, but in the 
> absence of other information, you don't know for certain. One other thing 
> that just might be going on is very low output caused by poor contact between 
> the brushes and the slip rings. If there is lots of current available to 
> charge the battery when mostly depleted, but only up to 12.6 volts, then 
> regulator it is. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> Yanmar YSB12
> Yanmar 3HM35F
> Way too many other vehicles. 
> 
>  Dave S via CnC-List  wrote: 
> Thanks Neil - and yes sounds similar.  I have the smaller acr which has 
> on-board led indicators.   I gather you needed the larger unit for a higher 
> output alternator.
> According to the support docs, the charge source has to exceed 13.7 v for a 
> period of time for the batteries to combine.  On the shore charger the 
> batteries see 14.28 v from the charger, and settle at 13.2v fully charged, as 
> do yours. 
> Here’s the installation:
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html?m=1
> I missed and will add the ability to monitor the voltage on the start 
> battery, this will give all the necessary info.
> Off to the alternator shop...
> 
> Dave. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Toilets

[Dave. via CnC-List]

I’m installing one now. All reports I get so far are positive.
Dave. Kaseler
SLY
1975 CC 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 7, 2019, at 9:08 AM, Glenn Henderson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Have any of you had experience with Composting toilets?
> 
> Glenn Henderson
> C 41 
> WeGo
> 
>> On Sun, Jul 7, 2019 at 12:00 PM  wrote:
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>1.  C spinnakers for sale (Rich)
>>2. Re:  Voltage / Amp Hours (Josh Muckley)
>>3.  Toilet Replacement (Raymond Macklin)
>>4. Re:  Toilet Replacement (Neil E. Andersen)
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Rich 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: 
>> Bcc: 
>> Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 21:05:41 -0400
>> Subject: Stus-List C spinnakers for sale
>> I have a great 2014 North Sails S2 Airmax 600 all purpose spinnaker that 
>> needs a new home. I will also throw in an old spinnaker that came with the 
>> boat that is a great heavy air chute. It probably came with the boat in 1988 
>> but never used. It was still crisp when I got my boat in 2011. Anyway, we 
>> converted to asym 2 years ago so have no more use for them. 2 great sails. 
>> You won’t be disappointed. Make an offer!
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> Richard Spitzenberger  CPA
>> R JMS
>> C 35-3
>> Phone 631-331-3140
>> r...@spitzenbergercpa.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Josh Muckley 
>> To: "C List" , ocha...@gmail.com
>> Cc: 
>> Bcc: 
>> Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 21:49:11 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours
>> Olivier,
>> 
>> It sounds like you are using solar to charge? Under this situation you would 
>> have charge current at high noon.  While charging (with or without any other 
>> loads) the battery is nowhere near full charged if it is reading 14.01v.  
>> While charging, the very lowest voltage reading which you could even halfway 
>> consider full would be 14.4v which is kinda common for auto alternators and 
>> some bench type chargers.  More likely you haven't come close to full charge 
>> until 14.6v or 14.7v but as discussed previously this is just the end of the 
>> bulk charge phase and represents only ~80%.  You really need a measure of 
>> the charge current once 14.7v is reached to know better where you are 
>> between 80% and 100%.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Fri, Jul 5, 2019, 2:37 PM Olivier Chatot via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Hi Edd,
>>> 
>>> I agree with Marek and Gary about the voltage reading not being a reliable 
>>> indication of the state of charge. Here's an example from my boat. At noon 
>>> my battery bank is normally back to full charge and the voltmeter shows 
>>> 14.01V, cool. A second later the fridge starts and the voltage drops to 
>>> close to 13V.  
>>> 
>>> Best,
>>> Olivier
>>> 
 On Fri, Jul 5, 2019, 13:46 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 Edd,
 to add to what Gary said...
  
 any measurement of the remaining capacity of the battery bank is tricky, 
 because it depends on how accurate your in- and out- meters are, what the 
 actual (current) total battery bank capacity is (it changes over time, 
 never up) and at what SoC (state of charge) you started the measurements.
  
 I assume that your 450 Ah is a nominal capacity, but you don’t know how 
 much of that is left.
  
 The 6 A you mention, is it 6 A over several hours (let’s say 3), i.e. 6 A 
 times “several (3)” hours = ~18 Ah or just 6 Ah? However, on a 450 Ah 
 battery bank, even 20 Ah is just under 5%, so if you started with 100% SoC 
 you should be at 95% (if it was 6 Ah, the SoC should be 98.5%).
  
 As Gary mentioned, re-synchronisation is a must.
  
 The voltage you are seeing depends heavily on what is using the battery at 
 the given time (as you check it). I can almost guarantee that if you were 
 watching the monitor at the time of starting the motor, the voltage meter 
 would show some number much lower than 12 V (even if the SoC was almost 
 100%).
  
 I am not sure if it helped you much, though
  
 Marek
 1994 C270 Legato
 Ottawa, ON
  
 From: Gary Russell via CnC-List
 Sent: Friday, July 5, 2019 13:08
 To: C List
 Cc: Gary Russell
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours
  
 Hi Edd,
 The battery voltage is only an indication of the state of charge of 

Stus-List Source for replacement lifelines in Toronto?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Hi all - can anyone recommend a source for replacement lifelines for my ‘85 
33-2?
Original pvc covered ss wire looking a bit tired.  Top lifeline passes through 
a cast eye atop the stanchion, lower passes through (very tired) nylon bushings 
set into holes in stanchions.  Need bushings also.

Thanks for any suggestions!

Dave 33-2.

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List C as offshore boat?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Enjoy the sail 
FWIW I only really understood what I wanted and needed from a sailboat after 
experiencing what I didn’t, and for me at least this took time. I still don’t 
have it quite right.  (Lol). I wouldn’t dwell too much on getting the right 
boat today for some future aspiration.  IMO, Get a good boat for today, and 
accept that it’ll still be imperfect.With experience You’ll progressively 
dial in on what you want, and in any case your aspirations will change over 
time.  
Good luck with (and enjoy) the adventure.
Dave -33 mk2 - (the not-ideal boat I am currently enjoying immensely)
Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 26, 2019, at 12:57 PM, Shawn Wright  wrote:
> 
> Thanks, Gary, for your thoughts. Having spent so long looking, I have become 
> more fixated on finding the right boat, but until we get some real 
> experience, we won't know what that boat is. As much as I dread the 
> possibility of selling her in a few years and beginning another search, I 
> can't see any way to avoid it. Even if we had $100K to spend, there is no 
> guarantee of finding the right boat for both local cruising, and going to the 
> South Pacific some day. We're probably going to proceed, unless something 
> serious comes up on the haul out, which doesn't seem likely. Backing out at 
> this point would likely mean not getting a boat in time for our planned trip 
> in June, or having to make a rushed decision on another boat. Getting the 10K 
> boat will do the job for a season, but I just know that I'll still be looking 
> at other boats, and I'd like to give that a rest for a while. I'm hoping to 
> go out tomorrow in some decent winds for a final trial, since we didn't get 
> much wind the first time. I plan to go below while under sail, hopefully with 
> a bit of wave height, to see what kind of movement and strange noises I hear 
> from the hull and bulkheads. I still have some concerns over the loose 
> bulkhead to cabin top connection (they just seem to loosely fit in the cabin 
> top liner groove), so I want to see how much movement is there.
> 
> The only comparable boat is a Niagara 35 ($25K) which is even better equipped 
> - radar, windvane, propane hot water. It's a boat well known for offshore 
> passage making, and I like the deeper bilge and heavier build, while it still 
> rates well under PHRF (159) so should be decent for light air. But it has 
> soggy decks are per past survey, and a cored hull. Oh, and there are two San 
> Juan 34/Crown 34s for $18 & 25K, which are closer to a C in build and 
> performance. 
> 
> I'm hoping for a good sail tomorrow, and to not find anything more that is 
> discouraging, so we can just get on with sailing, and learning to love our 
> new boat!
> 
>> On Fri, Apr 26, 2019 at 8:19 AM Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> We have owned our 30-1 for 25 years now, and, as our sailing dreams have 
>> changed, it still seems to answer the need. A couple more feet would not be 
>> a bad thing. A divorce in everything but boat ownership and the ex-Admiral 
>> still drives “her boat” with her new husband and some of the old crew on 
>> Wednesday nights and I drive “mine” at other times, do a little cruising and 
>> some weekend racing.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I’ve been watching your thought process with interest. I think, if you are 
>> comfortable with the concept of the 35II, I don’t see as much downside as 
>> others seem to see. It is a very good, stout, well sailing boat with some 
>> extras – maybe too many.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I would think that the engine issue with its complications may be a turn-off 
>> for many, but I don’t see why, with your skills, that a couple days 
>> stripping the extras out (water maker, extra batteries, and other items) you 
>> could get it down to a ‘normal’ boat. Then you have a garage full of stuff 
>> which may be handy in the future. When our hot water heater rusted into a 
>> pile, it came out, as we found our cruising to various places with marinas 
>> was more to our liking than camping out. You don’t know right now what you 
>> may end up doing with the boat in the future. Long distance cruising? 
>> Offshore? I would think that you need to spend some time developing your 
>> sailing skills and interests, then you can do more intelligent planning for 
>> future endeavors.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Just a contrary opinion.
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2019 10:38 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Shawn Wright 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C as offshore boat?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks for all the great replies. Interesting about the 30-1 setup for 
>> offshore. There is one in Victoria selling for $55K (for almost a year now) 
>> that the owner put over 50K into, but never left due to health issues. 
>> 
>> re: the hull-deck joint. This is one reason I was looking at Ericsons for 
>> months, as their glassed over joint is said to be very strong and leakproof 
>> 

Re: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

[Dave. via CnC-List]

I have purchased a composting toilet and will be installing it this spring.
Dave.
SLY
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 23, 2019, at 8:49 AM, T Sutton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> If or when I have to replace my head or the holding tank I think I’ll be 
> installing a composting head and be done with it.
>  
> Tom S
>  
> From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2019 11:21 AM
> To: CnClist
> Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
> Subject: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank
>  
> Listers:
>  
> New question for the group’s collective wisdom.  For reasons unrelated to 
> a holding tank issue, I recently removed the holding tank to gain access to 
> the area underneath.  While it is out, I am considering replacing it.  
> Ordinarily I would order a comparable plastic tank and be done with it.  
> However, some people swear by flexible tanks for this purpose.  What say you?
>  
> Matt Wolford
> C 42 Custom
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is  greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Interesting question Dennis. We steer with a tiller and I don’t think we ever 
go past 45 degrees. That a lot of rudder but maybe it is nice to know you still 
have more if you need it. I’m interested to hear what other wheel steerers 
think.
Dave. Kaseler
SLY
1975 C 33
Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 22, 2019, at 6:08 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I am putting Touche's steering system back together with the upgraded rudder 
> travel limiting bulkhead installed in the later model 35-1's.  Some may 
> recall my post some time back that rudder travel was limited by two small 
> bolts installed in the last links on each side of the chain.
> 
> I used a sketch that Neil Gallagher sent me of his rudder limit plate to make 
> wooden templates to tweak for finalizing the shape before cutting aluminum 
> ones.  These plates strike the newly installed bulkhead.
> 
> As a note, I have taken lots of pictures and am well documenting this entire 
> project.
> 
> When I tried moving the rudder side to side with the limit plate templates 
> installed, the rudder travel wasn't even close to what I saw when the travel 
> was limited by the nuts installed in the chain.  There were 4-5 links of 
> chain left before getting to the link that the stop bolts were installed in.
> 
> So I looked at the top of the rudder to see how much travel it was getting.  
> It's getting a bit over 45 degrees each side of midships.  Sheesh, it must 
> have been getting to 60 or 70 degrees with the old limit system.
> 
> At 45 degrees, the pulling cable is competely off the curved part of the 
> quadrant.
> 
> So, my question is "how much rudder travel is enough?"  Seems to me anything 
> past 45 degrees or so might act more like a brake.  I can't see using extreme 
> rudder travel anywhere except in tight quarters in a marina.
> 
> Can I live with 45 degrees?  Rob?  Chuck?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on '77 C 29?

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Shawn,
Not sure if this is an answer to your question but I have some thoughts. I have 
not sailed on either the Erickson or C 29 but both are good well made brands. 
My best advise for you is to encourage your wife to find a local “Learn to 
Sail” program so that she can learn to be comfortable under sail. All sailboats 
heal in a breeze tender or not and if this makes her uncomfortable you will be 
doing a lot of single handed sailing. If you too are a beginner you should take 
a class together so she can learn to trust your skills. She needs to be able to 
trust you in the boat. Once someone becomes frightened in a sailboat it is a 
hard thing to overcome. Adults are much harder to teach to sail than children 
mostly because of the fear factor.
Also, I’m a real believer in the “smaller cheaper” boat for almost anyone but 
certainly for someone who is new to the sport. While sailing a smaller boat, 
everything is easier to manage, forces are less and maintenance is simpler and 
everything costs less. My wife and I have sailed our entire lives and our 
biggest boat is our current C 33 and we sometimes think about downsizing. We 
spent many years racing and cruising a Newport 27 (a C design) sometimes with 
and sometimes without our two children. It was plenty big enough for our family.
Anyway, that is my two cents.
Dave.
SLY
1965 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 16, 2019, at 6:00 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm interested in opinions of a '77 C 29. There is one named "Tooth & Nail" 
> that has been for sale in Vancouver for some time now. The photos look good, 
> apparently has a good sail inventory, decent Yanmar engine, wheel steering. 
> Apparently a popular local race boat (so it may be beat up?)
> 
> It doesn't seem likely that we're going to find a 35' this season, so I'm 
> looking at smaller, cheaper boats so we can begin sailing while still keep an 
> eye out for the right boat. At the moment, the smaller, cheaper boats include 
> a very well kept Ericson 29, and this C 29, both for around $12K CAD.
> 
> One reason I overlooked the 29 in the past was based on where it sits on the 
> stability diagram - right at the top among the most tender of all boats. How 
> serious a concern is this for cruising as keelboat beginners? I don't want to 
> scare my wife, who has very little sailing experience, with a very tender 
> boat. She gets uncomfortable when sailing on a friend's Macgregor 26, which 
> seems to heel over at the slightest gust.
> 
> -- 
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Please always use a second halyard for safety. Many years ago I hoisted my wife 
up the mast using the jib halyard, all went fine but in the next race when I 
cranked hard on the jib halyard winch the halyard parted.
Dave.
1975 C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 10, 2019, at 11:51 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I don’t know about backup devices, but I can tell you that the ATN climber 
> keeps you very close to the mast (closer as you ascend).  I’ve only used mine 
> at the dock, however.
>  
> If you have a painted mast, you may want to tape or otherwise cover (I use a 
> piece of foam) the ATN’s metal parts.
>  
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2019 1:42 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Cc: David Knecht
> Subject: Stus-List Climbing the mast
>  
> I picked up a used Mastclimber on Ebay this winter.  I have not used it yet, 
> but am thinking ahead so I am ready when I need it.  When I went up the mast 
> a few years ago with an expert’s equipment and help, I was pulled up on a 
> halyard and the main winch.  I had a strap around the mast to keep me from 
> swinging out away from the mast in waves.  The ATN device allows you to climb 
> a fixed halyard so should have less tendency for swinging.  I am wondering if 
> I should still have a safety strap around the mast, but if so,  it must be 
> something that is easily attached and detached to get above spreaders.  Do 
> the expert climbers in the group think that safety is necessary, and if so, 
> what device do I want?  Line with carabiners on each end or something else?  
> Thanks- Dave
>  
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Prop pitch. And handing cc 33 mk1 1976

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Doug, 
I found an old survey that indicates that my Martec folding prop is 16x10. Hope 
that is what you needed.
Regards,
Dave.
1975 C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 3, 2019, at 10:34 AM, Dave. via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Congratulations on your purchase of a C 33 mk1. They are great boats, 
> lovely lines and a great sail-er. We have owned one for many years,  since 
> the 80s and love her. Perfect size for cruising with a couple and even with a 
> couple of kids and always performs well on the race course. And we have an 
> atomic 4 V drive with a Martel folding prop. I don’t know the specs for the 
> prop but I will see if I have that information in my file. I can tell you 
> that the pro works fine in forward developing about 6 knots at 1800 RPMs but 
> is a bit difficult in reverse. Takes a lot of revs in reverse to get any way 
> on and most often just wants to back to port or into the wind. Some times one 
> blade of the prop will stay folded causing heavy vibration but this can be 
> corrected by putting in reverse for a moment and then back into forward. 
> Good luck,
> Dave.
> 1975 C 33
> SLY
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Apr 2, 2019, at 10:19 AM, doug coup via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I have recently purchased mk1, with missing prop.  I have seen several other 
>> models but they have different pitches and sizes.  I am looking at Martec 
>> folding props used which I believe were standard.
>> 
>> What is the original spec for this Atomic 4 engine or if you have a newer 
>> better option.
>> Why.
>> 
>> 
>> Doug Coup
>> Renewal by Andersen
>> 847-452-8087
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Re: Stus-List Prop pitch. And handing cc 33 mk1 1976

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Congratulations on your purchase of a C 33 mk1. They are great boats, lovely 
lines and a great sail-er. We have owned one for many years,  since the 80s and 
love her. Perfect size for cruising with a couple and even with a couple of 
kids and always performs well on the race course. And we have an atomic 4 V 
drive with a Martel folding prop. I don’t know the specs for the prop but I 
will see if I have that information in my file. I can tell you that the pro 
works fine in forward developing about 6 knots at 1800 RPMs but is a bit 
difficult in reverse. Takes a lot of revs in reverse to get any way on and most 
often just wants to back to port or into the wind. Some times one blade of the 
prop will stay folded causing heavy vibration but this can be corrected by 
putting in reverse for a moment and then back into forward. 
Good luck,
Dave.
1975 C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 2, 2019, at 10:19 AM, doug coup via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I have recently purchased mk1, with missing prop.  I have seen several other 
> models but they have different pitches and sizes.  I am looking at Martec 
> folding props used which I believe were standard.
> 
> What is the original spec for this Atomic 4 engine or if you have a newer 
> better option.
> Why.
> 
> 
> Doug Coup
> Renewal by Andersen
> 847-452-8087
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Saturday morning reading - Wikipedia Article - Robert W. Ball

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Interesting stuff. Great to learn that the 33 was Rob’s first complete design 
for C It’s a great design and is fast on the race course. 
Also, in the list attributed to the C team I saw no mention of the Viking 33 
nor the Newport 27 which I believe were C designs. Am I right?
Dave.
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 15, 2018, at 8:27 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ken, that's awesome stuff; thank you for the compilation; this should be 
> posted on the Photo Album; I know there are parts of it and some of the cited 
> articles are already there, but this should be also;  
> 
> as a personal note; I believe that Wikipedia is in error by not attributing 
> the 37 as a Rob Ball design;  I cannot find anything that leads me to believe 
> it is not Rob's work, unless, of course he has stated such...
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River,Mile 596
> 
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Ken Heaton 
> Sent: Sat, Dec 15, 2018 10:40 am
> Subject: Stus-List Saturday morning reading - Wikipedia Article - Robert W. 
> Ball
> 
> Hello List,
> 
> As there are now over 100 article in Wikipedia that mention Rob Ball (mostly 
> as yacht designer at C Yachts) I felt it was time an entry was created to 
> explain who he is.
> 
> So now there is a short article about Robert W. Ball: 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_W._Ball
> 
> Please have a look when you have a few minutes,
> 
> Ken Heaton
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker Running Rigging

[Dave. via CnC-List]

On SLY, the prior owner was all about weight forward. They moved the batteries 
forward to under the V-birth port side and added a second fuel tank under the 
settee to starboard and would keep the aft tank empty.  When we acquired the 
boat we kept these changes and also lengthened the tiller a bit so the helmsman 
sits against the house. Except during tacks and jibes and sail trims the crew 
is forward of the helmsman but concentrated just forward of her. We get good 
boat speed out of this arrangement. In the day when we raced regularly we 
seldom raced with a full compliment of crew and were lucky to have 4. In our 
opinion this arrangement is most effective in light and medium air, while going 
to windward. Down wind, not so much. Just my thoughts.
Dave.
SLY
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 8, 2018, at 6:42 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> We move crew fore and aft so the water exits the clean from the bottom of the 
> transom without curling.  Max water line without a stern curl is our 
> philosophy.  It's the responsibility of the helmsperson to glance down every 
> now and then to monitor stern curl.
> 
> For the same reason we may move crew across boat to maintain minimum 10-12 
> degrees of heel.  Max waterline.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Fri, Dec 7, 2018 at 9:16 PM Donald Kern via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Alan, I find that my 35 Mk2 is sensitive to crew forward  of the mast, thus 
>> the only time I like to have crew forward of the mast is for sail set ups 
>> and sail changes.  Thus in spinnaker take down I have one person in cabin 
>> and two hauling the chute down.  Normal racing crew is 6 or 7.  Also race on 
>> a J30 and find on her that crew forward is good and only have two aft of the 
>> cabin companionway (helm & mainsheet/tactician), Normal crew on her is the 
>> same, 6 or 7.  
>> Would also like to know what others think about fore-aft trim on the older 
>> C
>> 
>> Don Kern
>> Fireball C 35 MK2
>> Bristol, RI
>> 
>>> On 12/7/2018 7:00 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List wrote:
>>> My arrangement is similar to yours, Don. The spinnaker guy has a shackle 
>>> with a large bale The sheet is attached to the guy and the guy is attached 
>>> to the spinnaker clew. I have a two or three inch diameter disk on the guy 
>>> just aft of the shackle which prevents the shackle from getting caught in 
>>> the jaws of the pole. My guy goes to a pad-eye just aft of the shrouds, and 
>>> the sheet to a block on the rail all the way aft. When dropping the chute, 
>>> we drop it under the jib, and down the forward hatch. That keeps the 
>>> companionway clear, and the spinnaker doesn't tangle with the cockpit crew.
>>>  
>>> Alan Bergen
>>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>>> Rose City YC
>>> Portland, OR
>>> 
>>> Don Kern via CnC-List 
>>> 1:08 PM (2 hours ago)
>>> 
>>> Reply
>>> 
>>> to cnc-list, Don
>>> 
>>> I race quite a bit (more than I cruise) and I have not used the reaching 
>>> strut in years, though it carried below on the shelf above the v-berth.  We 
>>> use both a sheet and a guy attached to each clue.  The sheet is lead to a 
>>> turning blocks at the aft most opening on the toe rail, the guy is lead to 
>>> a snatch block on the toe rail about a foot aft of the lower-aft shroud, 
>>> then inboard aft to the cockpit.  In light air we will drop the guy and 
>>> just go with the sheet.  The shackle of the guy is normally hooked into the 
>>> ring of the sheet's shackle. For spinnaker take downs we grab the lazy guy, 
>>> easy since there is no tension on it, lead it over the life line down the 
>>> companionway into cabin. Then let the pole go forward and blow the sheet's 
>>> shackle (guy is hooked into the sheet) and haul the chute down behind the 
>>> main. Two other advantages with this arrangement is that with the guy led 
>>> into the toe rail amidships it also acts as a pole downhaul and when 
>>> running dead before the wind, in very heavy blow we choke the spinnaker 
>>> with the lazy guy to inhibit death roles.
>>> Don Kern
>>> Fireball C MK2
>>> Bristol, RI
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>> 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] 37/40+ holding tank

[Dave. via CnC-List]

I agree with Joe. We will be installing a composting Head this spring. All 
reports I get are positive.
Dave.
1975 C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 6, 2018, at 7:01 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Metal holding tanks WILL leak. No idea why anyone ever used them.
> I would seriously consider getting a composting head. It would be a lot less 
> money and disruption. Speaking of disruption, I am not sure of your access, 
> but Grand Banks fuel tanks are installed early in the build and do not fit 
> out of any hatch. The usual way to remove them is to cut them up into pieces.
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Daryl 
> McKelvie via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 9:56 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Daryl McKelvie
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List 37/40+ holding tank
>  
> Hi guys, I'm trying to work towards getting the boat ready for a trip south 
> starting summer 2020 and one of the big things on my mind is the original 
> aluminum holding tank, which I'm told will eventually start leaking and get a 
> new plastic one in there, problem is getting it out, short story: friend with 
> same boat, he and the marine yard decided there was absolutely no way it was 
> coming out, cut the plastic vanity, replaced with a nice teak strip to hide 
> cut, looks great, $3500 and that was 5 years ago. Without taking everything 
> apart I'm looking at it saying but it looks like it might fit. Question to 
> any owners: has anyone seen this done, can anyone say it will absolutely fit 
> with making cuts, before I start taking things apart, I know it's been 
> discussed on here before but I'm hoping to find a definitive yes or no, thanx 
> guys.
>  
> Daryl McKelvie 
> Sarnia Ontario 
> 1989 37/40+
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Winter Battery Maintenance

[Dave via CnC-List]

Windstar has two parallel group 31 batteries as the house bank, and a single 
start battery with a 20a multi bank smart charger.
For winter I top up the electrolyte , and leave the shore power cable connected 
to the well-covered boat, coiled and hanging from the prop shaft.   Charger 
turned on.
Every month or so I emerge from hibernation and connect the boat overnight  to 
an outlet in the yard via a cheater cable to top up the batteries.
Seems to work fine.   Can anyone see any issue with this approach?

Thanks.
Dave - 
33-2 on the hard near Toronto.

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 30, 2018, at 8:23 PM, dwight veinot  wrote:
> 
> Rob Abbott’s method works but in addition i recommend disconnecting the cable 
> from the positive terminal
> 
>> On Fri, Nov 30, 2018 at 3:32 PM robert via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> There is a marine contractor at our club, who also owns a boat, and who is 
>> very knowledgeable about proper boat maintenance and he leaves his batteries 
>> on his boat over our winters. he just gives them a full charge and turns 
>> the battery disconnect switch off. ..doesn't even disconnect everything 
>> from the battery itself.  He checks each cell to ensure the electrolyte 
>> is to the top of each plate and brings them to full charge.  
>> 
>> If the battery is in good condition with the acid of a specific gravity of 
>> around 1.260, the freezing temperature to do any harm to it would be colder 
>> than anything we might experience in North America.
>> 
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - #277
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
>>> On 2018-11-30 11:15 a.m., Raymond Macklin via CnC-List wrote:
>>> I have two batteries that I am looking for information on how to Maintain 
>>> my batteries over the winter.  What charger to purchase and process to 
>>> follow. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Ray
>>> LakeHouse
>>> Milwaukee, WI
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
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>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>>> 
>> 
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>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Sticker residue

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Has anyone tried 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner? We use it often around 
the house and even to remove glue from numbers on sails but we have not tried 
it on Awlgrip. Comes in regular can like acetone and in a spray can at most 
hardware stores.
Dave.
SLY 1975
C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 30, 2018, at 7:47 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks to all who sent suggestions on this glue residue removal. 
> 
> I am going to try acetone with a soft rag and hope that it evaporates so fast 
> that it won't bother the Awlgrip. 
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> C 36 XL/kcb
> 
> cenel...@aol.com
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Filling diesel tank

[Dave. via CnC-List]

I use an outboard motor fuel hose with the end fittings removed for emptying 
the tank and I’m sure it would work to fill the tank. Squeezing the bulb is I 
little slow but is does work. 
Dave.
SLY
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 25, 2018, at 7:46 AM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I use a siphon hose like this:
> 
> 
> Podoy Gas Siphon Pump Gasoline/Fuel/Water Shaker Siphon Safety Self Priming 
> Hose 6' ft
> Amazon: http://a.co/d/4SIUlgu 
>  
> 
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: David Knecht 
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Cc: 
> Bcc: 
> Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2018 10:16:51 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Filling diesel tank
> I will soon be topping off my diesel tank for the winter, which I usually do 
> by pouring fuel through a funnel with a water filter from a 5 gal jerry can.  
> I have found it nearly impossible to pour into the funnel from a full 5 gal 
> container and hit the funnel without spilling diesel all over the transom and 
> into the water if still at the dock.  Has anyone found a device that works or 
> come up with a clever way to transfer fuel without spilling?  Thanks- Dave
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

[Dave. via CnC-List]

I have had to replace my manual whale gusher pumps twice over the years. My 
problem was not the diaphragm but the metal itself. I can’t remember for sure 
but I think the housing is aluminum but in any case the salt water erodes the 
metal and the seals no longer seal. Only way to tell is to disassemble the pump.
Good luck.
Dave.
SLY 1975 C 33


Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 17, 2018, at 1:53 PM, Chris Graham via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The diaphragm on the manual bilge pump in the cockpit seems to be 
> compromised. Would one try to find a new diaphragm to replace it or install a 
> better system in the lazarette, such as a whale or something similar? 
> 
> Do they even make replacement diaphragms for a 1978 26’?
> 
> Chris 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Rain Water & bilge pump questions

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Sidney,
I can’t provide advice on all your questions as I’m not familiar with the 24 
but I can tell you that we always get water in the bilge after a heavy rain in 
our 33. I believe that most of this water comes down the mast, which is keel 
stepped. If your mast is stepped on deck you shouldn’t be getting much water 
there. And if you are you need to figure where the water is getting in. As for 
the cockpit, the water should drain overboard. In our case there are two valves 
which open and close these drains. If you have one or two valves they may be 
closed. If you have no valves, the drain hose most be clogged with debris. 
Regards and good luck,
Dave.
1975 C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 15, 2018, at 10:29 AM, Sid via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Good Afternoon,
> 
> I have a 1980 C 24ft. Sailboat.
> We had some heavy rain a couple times last couple weeks. 
> 
> There is a board inside the cabin on the floor the covers the keel. It fills 
> up with water when it rains.
> The boat has a manual pump in cockpit close to the stern of the boat that I 
> use to pump out that water but it does not pump out the water in the holes in 
> the cockpit.
> There are two holes that the rain water goes in to in the cockpit. I can 
> access the space below the cockpit via the right locker. I can see a U shape 
> pipe the two holes connect to and that pipe goes inside the bottom of the 
> hull.  This past storm there was so much rain that the keel hole filled up 
> the floor had 1/8 inch of water on it.
> 
> I notice that when I manually pump out the water in the keel that the water 
> in the cockpit pipe it did not pump that out.
> 
> 1. is it normal to get water in the keel after it rains?
> 2. anyone know how the water leaves the boat when it rains in the cockpit?
> 3. where to install a bilge pump that turn on automatically to pump out the 
> water?
> 4. how / where to run the bilge pump pipe to?
> 5. does to cockpit water goes to the keel hole in the cabin? I am assuming no 
> the way the pipe leave the hull below the cockpit.
> 
> Thank You
> Sidney
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Solar panels and LED light bulbs.

[Dave via CnC-List]

Interesting - have been contemplating exactly this for Windstar - 33-2, and  my 
needs and equipment are  similar for contemplated summer cruising in Georgian 
bay.

I have a Bimini and can barely fit 200w (iirc) of solar panel on the Bimini, 
which is the bare minimum required to keep my house battery whole.   (I could 
be misremembering the wattage)  Mounting the flexible panels will take some 
thought.   I don’t want to bother with set up and take down panels

I have converted to LED lighting - a big difference in power consumption and 
have used a variety of light sources, including some inexpensive halogen 
replacement bulbs from amazon and some dome lights from princess auto.   Am 
very happy with both despite the low cost.

IMHO Biggest remaining issue is the fridge - it needs to be better sealed and 
better insulated is to reduce the amp-hour draw.  This will take some thought 
and is a project for the winter.   

Am a bit behind on blog updates but will catch up over the next week or so.
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2015/12/hello-all-this-blog-is-intended-to.html

Am interested in the evolution of your plans!

Dave 


Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 13, 2018, at 1:42 PM, DON JONSSON  wrote:
> 
> Hi All
> 
> Last year after putting in a new Beta engine with a larger alternator (110 
> amp) we added an additional battery, a battery monitor, and to use all that 
> power, a fridge.  (Of interest, and not the point of this email, is we went 
> through two alternators on the boat last summer both on warranty.  Doesn't 
> bode well.  We did not put in a smart regulator as it would void the 
> warranty.  Guess that was a good thing.  Two mechanics have gone through the 
> boat and all wiring is good.  They claim manufacturing default in both 
> alternators.   Hmmm.)
> 
> The fridge is a fantastic addition especially when you are up north with no 
> stores to buy ice, or much food for that matter.   BUT, as you all know it 
> takes a lot of power.  Which gets me to the questions.  Easy one first.
> 
> 1.  We have added some new LED reading light fixtures but still have a few 
> more old incandescent lights where we would like to keep the fixtures.  You 
> can get replacement LED bulbs that range in price from a couple of dollars to 
> $15.   I read that cheaper ones don't deal with variations in voltage very 
> well and you should spend more money.  Does anyone have experience and 
> recommendations.
> 
> 2. The real solution, we think, is solar panels.  But how much do they really 
> help and where to put them on a 34 foot sailboat.  It seems all locations 
> come with a compromise.   We are considering:
> 
> A: On top of the dodger, but the boom will always be an issue.  Especially 
> since we don't have a bimini we use the boom for supporting our awning that 
> we put up on hot sunny days.  Yes we occasionally get them up on the BC coast 
> and blocking the sun is mandatory.
> 
> B: Get a bimini and mount them on it.  But this gets us back to the sunshine 
> issue.  Lots of days it isn't that warm and you want the sun on you.  A 
> Bimini with solar panels is not that easy to fold out of the way.  Also it 
> isn't cheap.
> 
> C: Hang them off the life lines or rails at the back of the boat with a 
> support that allows you to set them flat when at anchor.  But we occasionally 
> carry bikes back there and we couldn't have both at the same time.  Also 
> looks a little clunky.
> 
> D:  Leave them as portable and set them out when at anchor.  But then it is a 
> pain and you don't do it unless you are sitting for a while and you have all 
> the wire to deal with, etc.  And they aren't helping much under sail.
> 
> So does anyone have a recommendation as to what they have done and how it 
> works.  Also how many amp hours did you get on a sunny day?  What size of 
> panels did you use.
> 
> I know, that like everything on a boat it is always a compromise, we are just 
> trying to figure out which one to make.
> 
> Thanks for any help.
> 
> Don Jonsson
> Andante, C 34
> Victoria, BC
> 
> 
> 
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Stus-List Recommended 33-2 deck fill replacement

[Dave via CnC-List]

Doing some work on Windstar, and while I’m at it I will probably replace the 
sun-beaten original water deck fill.   Any recommendations as to a high-quality 
replacement?Thanks!

Dave

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Holding tanks

[Dave. via CnC-List]

I still marvel that Rod knew the dimensions, manufacturer and model number of 
the original holding tank on the C 33 mark 1. Thanks again Rod. 
As this tank is no longer available and to manufacture a custom replacement 
would be pretty expensive I’m now considering an AirHead composting toilet. All 
reports are positive. My two concerns are, where to exit the vent hose and how 
to power that vent without shore power. Have any of our listers made the 
switch? Is so, how did you solve the venting problem?
Thanks again for your input.
Dave.
SLY 1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 3, 2018, at 11:48 AM, Rodney Randow via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 1. The holding tank is behind the head and under the locker shelf. All the 
> fitting are located on the top surface. The tank is shaped to fit into this 
> space and I believe the tank is original.
> 
> 2. Model: Kracor R-6046
> Tank top: 12.5 x 22
> side view: 19h (cabinet)/5h (hull) x 12.5w (top)/5w (bottom)
> 
> Rod
> C
> 
>> On 08/31/2018 04:55 PM, Dave. via CnC-List wrote:
>> SLY has been using a Type 1 Sanitation System but these are no longer legal 
>> in Puget Sound so we need to install a holding tank. Yuck! I looked in our 
>> original C manual and found a 15.5 gallon holding tank listed. Not sure if 
>> these were standard issue or an option but SLY did not come to us with a 
>> holding tank. So my questions are:
>> 1. Where were the holding tanks installed?
>> 2. What were there configuration? Dimensions?
>> 3. Are these units or similar units available and from whom?
>> Thanks again for your collective thoughts.
>> Dave. Kaseler
>> SLY
>> 1975 C 33
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
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>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 


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Re: Stus-List Rob - C long time question

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Don Kern put together a great list of C owners which unfortunately I can no 
longer find. In any event, we purchased SLY in December 1984 here in the 
Seattle area. She is a 1975 C 33 but we are often asked about her 
manufacture. She was somewhat disguised by the prior owner. She came red from 
the factory but the PO had her Algriped Black. They removed the traditional C 
cove strip and greatly increased her boot top width, which is white and 
contains her name. Name is also on her transom. It is surprising how much this 
changes her appearance. She is a great boat, sails well and has won many races 
for us. Her older sails and sailors have kept us off the race course of late 
but we still plan to cruise her locally to the San Juan and Gulf Islands. We 
will see what next summer brings.
Dave. Kaseler

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 1, 2018, at 7:04 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Would it make sense to put it on Google Drive and have it available to others 
> for update?
>  
> Marek
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> From: Don Kern via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2018 19:10
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Don Kern
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rob - C long time question
>  
> Being retired, and having a rainy day I put together a spread sheet 
> (attached) from the replies to Jack's request.  Please let me know by 
> email, if you want to be removed or want to make corrections to the 
> list.  Rhis is a shorten list that does not include the second and third 
> boats that folks have owned.
> 
> I will send out an update as soon as the replies peter out.
> 
> ps: What part of the C serial number is the hull number, the last 
> three digits?
> 
> Best regards,
> Don Kern
> Fireball - 12708
> 1974 C 35 Mk2
> Bristol, RI 02809
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Composting head in 33-2?

[Dave. via CnC-List]

This info is great. We measured the head compartment and the airhead unit would 
fit. Just. Our biggest concerns are where to locate the vent and how to deal 
with the 24/7 need for electricity. How did you guys deal with these issues? 
SLY has no anchor locker in which to lead the vent nor shore power to support 
24/7 electrical consumption. A solar panel might work but here in the northwest 
we see precious little sun in the winter. And we are concerned that a deck led 
vent would allow water intrusion in rough weather. Thoughts?
Thanks again.
Dave.
SLY 1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 30, 2018, at 12:27 PM, Robert Boyer  wrote:
> 
> We have had a composting head (Air Head) for several years now and love it.  
> It sits a little higher than a standard toilet but we got used to it.  We 
> live aboard and go south every winter and we have to empty the solids 
> container every 3 weeks (2 people).  As I recall, composting requires a temp 
> of at least 55 degrees F which is not a problem for us but could be for some 
> people who keep their boats in cold weather.  I have more info on my blog...
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD 
> 
>> On Sep 30, 2018, at 12:16 PM, Dave. via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Dave.
>> I love your question and look forward to responses. We, on our 33-1 are 
>> looking at the same issue. In our case we have had no real holding tank (a 6 
>> gallon job which was never used) but have used an electro-scan Type 1 Marine 
>> Sanitation Device. As Puget Sound in now a no discharge zone we need to 
>> choose our next system. The composting head sounds like an interesting 
>> option but I too would like to here what others have experienced. They are 
>> not cheap but neither is a custom made holding tank. I’ve looked at the many 
>> prefabricated tanks and have not found one which would fit our situation.
>> Dave.
>> SLY
>> 1975 C 33
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Sep 29, 2018, at 11:40 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Has anyone installed a composting head in a 33 or similar?
>>> Have been contemplating replacement of my stench-impregnated holding tank 
>>> and hoses and it was suggested I look at a composting head instead.  
>>> Very tempting for many reasons, plus a huge gain in interior space below 
>>> the v-berth.   
>>> my only concern is size of the unit itself and I wonder  if anyone has 
>>> already been down this road.   Any thoughts or guidance?
>>> Thanks!
>>> Dave - windstar 33-2
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 


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Re: Stus-List Composting head in 33-2?

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Dave.
I love your question and look forward to responses. We, on our 33-1 are looking 
at the same issue. In our case we have had no real holding tank (a 6 gallon job 
which was never used) but have used an electro-scan Type 1 Marine Sanitation 
Device. As Puget Sound in now a no discharge zone we need to choose our next 
system. The composting head sounds like an interesting option but I too would 
like to here what others have experienced. They are not cheap but neither is a 
custom made holding tank. I’ve looked at the many prefabricated tanks and have 
not found one which would fit our situation.
Dave.
SLY
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 29, 2018, at 11:40 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Has anyone installed a composting head in a 33 or similar?
> Have been contemplating replacement of my stench-impregnated holding tank and 
> hoses and it was suggested I look at a composting head instead.  
> Very tempting for many reasons, plus a huge gain in interior space below the 
> v-berth.   
> my only concern is size of the unit itself and I wonder  if anyone has 
> already been down this road.   Any thoughts or guidance?
> Thanks!
> Dave - windstar 33-2
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Re: Stus-List Mold prevention

[Dave. via CnC-List]

We use 3 Dri-Z-Aires in the winter in SLY and for us that does the trick. SLY 
lives in the water at her slip but is inactive all winter here in the 
Northwest. No issue with mold in the summer for us.
Dave.
1975 C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 30, 2018, at 6:58 AM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Boat is ventilated ( not dehumified) and bulkheads clean but we get this 
> light patina of easily removed mold on a regular basis.   Is there a solution 
> to prevent regrowth or is that the TSP bleach water solution to clean same.  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From my Android
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Florence Livestream From Offshore Oil Rig

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Makes me feel old but when I was in the Coast Guard for three years in the 
1960s it was one of our jobs to service the Frying Pan Shoals light ship and 
then the NEW light tower. We brought them food, water supplies and change of 
personnel. We were on the CGC Chilula stationed in Moorhead City. Our main job 
was search and rescue.
Dave.
1975 C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 14, 2018, at 7:38 AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yes, I stand corrected.  
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frying_Pan_Shoals_Light.  "The light tower is 
> modeled after a steel oil drilling platform”.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> 
>> On Sep 14, 2018, at 8:28 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> That is a lighthouse, not an oil well.
>> It also is offline, they have a placeholder running of a sunrise. Yesterday 
>> was amazing!
>>  
>> Joe
>> Coquina
>>  
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
>> Stafford via CnC-List
>> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2018 4:32 PM
>> To: cnc-list
>> Cc: Randy Stafford
>> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Florence Livestream From Offshore Oil Rig
>>  
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deG4NxkouGM
>>  
>> Warning, addictive.
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Stus-List C 33 Mt 1 holding tank

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Rodney, thanks for the great information. I’ll be going to the boat this 
afternoon and opening up that cabinet to check it out.
Dave. Kaseler
SLY
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Recall interior your LED light conversion

[Dave via CnC-List]

I am that person.

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2017/07/led-interior-lighting-on-budget.html

Dave

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 2, 2018, at 9:02 PM,   
> wrote:
> 
> Ok, I spent way too much time looking on the archives for a LED conversion
> someone posted last year.  Hard to find and didn't find it.  The person
> bought an LED light fixture off the shelf and added red LED diodes with
> switch to make it a red/white light.  I made one and put over the head and
> really like it.  Was going to do some more but can't find the instructions
> for the light including the link to the LED resistor type, etc.  Could that
> person forward me the link pleaseassuming you are still around. 
> 
> Thanks,
> Paul Hood
> C REFUGE, Georgian Bay
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Stus-List Holding tank

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Thanks Doug, Matthew, Brad and Dave for your helpful info. I will start with 
Marine Sanitation here in Seattle and go from there. Matthew, if you find the 
extra tank you referred to, let me know. 
Thanks to alldave.
SLY
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Holding tanks

[Dave via CnC-List]

Dave,

On my 33-2 the pump out and vent hoses are routed to the port side deck and 
sheer line respectively via the head compartment, and the tank itself is 
located under the v-berth.
 
a plastics fabricator here (near Toronto) will make a custom tank for C$500 
ish.  Perhaps you have similar locally.

I will be improving my tank ventilation by increasing the hose/vent sizes and 
adding a second vent on the starboard side.  There have been discussions on 
this list about how best to circulate  oxygen into the tank.  Something to 
think about.

Also, make sure you use the best quality rubber sanitation hose, not the white 
pvc stuff, which I can assure you is gas permeable.

Dave
Windstar 33-2

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 31, 2018, at 5:47 PM, Matthew L. Wolford  wrote:
> 
> Don't know about the 33, but my 1978 34 (similar boat) had the holding tank 
> under the forward berths.  Although the tank was unique in shape, I found a 
> replacement at Ronco that fit perfectly.  Shipping costs are high, 
> unfortunately.
> 
> http://ronco-plastics.com/newRonco/ProductCatalogs/Marine2017.pdf
> 
> -----Original Message- From: Dave. via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, August 31, 2018 4:55 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: kasel...@q.com
> Subject: Stus-List Holding tanks
> 
> SLY has been using a Type 1 Sanitation System but these are no longer legal 
> in Puget Sound so we need to install a holding tank. Yuck! I looked in our 
> original C manual and found a 15.5 gallon holding tank listed. Not sure if 
> these were standard issue or an option but SLY did not come to us with a 
> holding tank. So my questions are:
> 1. Where were the holding tanks installed?
> 2. What were there configuration? Dimensions?
> 3. Are these units or similar units available and from whom?
> Thanks again for your collective thoughts.
> Dave. Kaseler
> SLY
> 1975 C 33
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 

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Stus-List Holding tanks

[Dave. via CnC-List]

SLY has been using a Type 1 Sanitation System but these are no longer legal in 
Puget Sound so we need to install a holding tank. Yuck! I looked in our 
original C manual and found a 15.5 gallon holding tank listed. Not sure if 
these were standard issue or an option but SLY did not come to us with a 
holding tank. So my questions are:
1. Where were the holding tanks installed? 
2. What were there configuration? Dimensions?
3. Are these units or similar units available and from whom?
Thanks again for your collective thoughts.
Dave. Kaseler
SLY
1975 C 33



Sent from my iPad

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Stus-List Long Island

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Don’t forget City Island. Interesting maritime place (at least it was when I 
was growing up on western Long Island Sound in the 50s). Just outside of NYC.
Dave.
SLY
1975 C
Sent from my iPad

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Stus-List 33-2 storage addition

[Dave via CnC-List]

A long interval between posts, and a busy summer, but I did find time last 
weekend to create a new storage space in Windstar.  Am pleased with the result, 
a surprising amount of space available!

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2018/08/another-storage-addition-hatch-in-nav.html

Dave

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Re: Stus-List C 35 MK3 for sale

[Dave via CnC-List]

Thanks Ron,
I remember seeing you and waving.
Dave

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 8, 2017, at 8:00 PM, Ron Ricci <ron.ri...@1968.usna.com> wrote:
> 
> Dave,
>  
> Your boat sailed by our mooring in Bristol last weekend.  It is a sharp 
> looking boat.  Good luck with selling it to a (lucky) new owner.
> Regards,
> Ron
> Ron Ricci
> S/V Patriot
> C 37+
> Bristol, RI
> 
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2017 3:34 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net
> Subject: Stus-List C 35 MK3 for sale
>  
> Fellow C owners,
>  
> After sailing her for 4 years Saltaire, my 1984 C 35 MK3 is going up for 
> sale.
>  
> Since I've owned her I've added the following;
>  
> 2014
> Rod Rigging
> Quantum Sails Main
> Quantum Sails 135%
>  
> 2015
> Raymarine aSeries Chart Plotter, GPS and Depth
> Raymarine i50 Speed
> Raymarine i60 Wind instrument
> NMEA2000 Network
> Pressure hot and cold water
> Bottom stripped, new barrier coat and paint
> Transmission rebuilt
> Port lights replaced
>  
> 2016
> 145% North 3D Headsail
> 2 blade FlexFold prop
>  
> Next purchases would be new North racing main and new traveler cars.
>  
> Saltaire, located in Bristol RI sails beautifully and is very competitive at 
> her cruising class rating of 149. There are 3 spinnakers that unfortunately 
> I've not used but appear to be in very good condition. Asking price is $34K. 
> If anyone on the list is interested please let me know.
>  
> Dave J
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Stus-List C 35 MK3 for sale

[Dave via CnC-List]

Fellow C owners, 

After sailing her for 4 years Saltaire, my 1984 C 35 MK3 is going up for 
sale. 

Since I've owned her I've added the following; 

2014 
Rod Rigging 
Quantum Sails Main 
Quantum Sails 135% 

2015 
Raymarine aSeries Chart Plotter, GPS and Depth 
Raymarine i50 Speed 
Raymarine i60 Wind instrument 
NMEA2000 Network 
Pressure hot and cold water 
Bottom stripped, new barrier coat and paint 
Transmission rebuilt 
Port lights replaced 

2016 
145% North 3D Headsail 
2 blade FlexFold prop 

Next purchases would be new North racing main and new traveler cars. 

Saltaire, located in Bristol RI sails beautifully and is very competitive at 
her cruising class rating of 149. There are 3 spinnakers that unfortunately 
I've not used but appear to be in very good condition. Asking price is $34K. If 
anyone on the list is interested please let me know. 

Dave J 
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Re: Stus-List Newport, RI weeknight racing?

[Dave via CnC-List]

September 24: Bud Humphrey Memorial Race , Barrington YC. 

Good non-spinaker pursuit race. Always a large turnout. 

Dave J 
Saltaire 
C 35 MK 3 
Bristol, RI 

- Original Message -

From: "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List"  
To: "CnC-List"  
Cc: "Kevin Driscoll"  
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2017 5:53:32 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Newport, RI weeknight racing? 

I should also say that we will be in Gloucester, MA later during the week ~ 
22nd-24th of September if anyone needs a hand with lines or someone to grind! 

On Thu, Aug 31, 2017 at 2:50 PM Kevin Driscoll < kevindrisc...@gmail.com > 
wrote: 



We are visiting family on the east coast in about 2 weeks and spending a few 
days in Newport, RI on the wharf. Does anybody know of any weeknight racing 
that happens out of the Newport Yacht Club or somewhere nearby? It would fun to 
get out on the water for an evening. 

Does anybody else here have a boat in Newport RI? 

Thanks, 
Kevin 




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Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase

[Dave via CnC-List]

I think her biggest gripe is that it's not a Tartan 40 or better yet a trawler. 

- Original Message -

From: "G Collins via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "G Collins" <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com> 
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2017 7:41:43 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase 



My wife and I love cruising our 35-3, what do you see as deficiencies? 
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11 





From: Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: schiller <schil...@bloomingdalecom.net> 
Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 1:55 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase 

Congrats on the C 35 MK3. I own a 1984 MK3, am in 1st place in our Wednesday 
night racing series and enjoy the boat immensely. It's a pleasure to sail. 

My wife, the boss doesn't race and would like to have more of a "cruiser". So 
although this will be a very hard decision for me I may be putting the boat up 
for sale in the fall. 

Best of luck, 

Dave J 
Saltaire 
C 35 MK3 
Bristol, RI 



From: "schiller via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "schiller" <schil...@bloomingdalecom.net> 
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 2:21:52 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase 

Well, we went to Charlevoix to look at the 1981 C 32. Not the boat for us. 
Interior has not been taken care of. Buckets under the portlights to catch the 
leaks, forward hatch so crazed that it looks like it might break with a big 
rain drop, floor so bad that it was mushy in front the mast and head door. Too 
bad really, it was really a nice layout. 

So, called the owner of the 35 and negotiated a deal over the phone. We will 
soon be the proud owners of a 1983 C 35, Mark III. I talked with the surveyor 
that did the previous survey. He has retired but has agreed to do an 
incremental survey. 

Neil Schiller 
Soon to be 1983 C 35, Mark III 
Currently "Grace" 
In Muskegon to be relocated to White Lake, Michigan 

Sent from my iPad 

On Aug 23, 2017, at 10:45 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 




Is the mast step a more difficult repair than on the 30-1? 
Ron 
Wild Cheri 
C 30-1 
STL 




From: Dave S via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
To: JP Mail < jon.peterpr...@gmail.com > 
Cc: Dave S < syerd...@gmail.com >; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2017 6:26 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase 

Do make sure that with the 35-3, that you and your surveyor research then 
examine very closely the keel stub/mast step area. Several on this list have 
repaired theirs, and a pro repair is an expensive proposition. 

Dave 
33-2 

Sent from my iPhone 






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___ 

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 

___ 

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https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 




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https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 




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Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase

[Dave via CnC-List]

Congrats on the C 35 MK3. I own a 1984 MK3, am in 1st place in our Wednesday 
night racing series and enjoy the boat immensely. It's a pleasure to sail. 

My wife, the boss doesn't race and would like to have more of a "cruiser". So 
although this will be a very hard decision for me I may be putting the boat up 
for sale in the fall. 

Best of luck, 

Dave J 
Saltaire 
C 35 MK3 
Bristol, RI 


- Original Message -

From: "schiller via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "schiller"  
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 2:21:52 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase 

Well, we went to Charlevoix to look at the 1981 C 32. Not the boat for us. 
Interior has not been taken care of. Buckets under the portlights to catch the 
leaks, forward hatch so crazed that it looks like it might break with a big 
rain drop, floor so bad that it was mushy in front the mast and head door. Too 
bad really, it was really a nice layout. 

So, called the owner of the 35 and negotiated a deal over the phone. We will 
soon be the proud owners of a 1983 C 35, Mark III. I talked with the surveyor 
that did the previous survey. He has retired but has agreed to do an 
incremental survey. 

Neil Schiller 
Soon to be 1983 C 35, Mark III 
Currently "Grace" 
In Muskegon to be relocated to White Lake, Michigan 

Sent from my iPad 

On Aug 23, 2017, at 10:45 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 




Is the mast step a more difficult repair than on the 30-1? 
Ron 
Wild Cheri 
C 30-1 
STL 




From: Dave S via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
To: JP Mail < jon.peterpr...@gmail.com > 
Cc: Dave S < syerd...@gmail.com >; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2017 6:26 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase 

Do make sure that with the 35-3, that you and your surveyor research then 
examine very closely the keel stub/mast step area. Several on this list have 
repaired theirs, and a pro repair is an expensive proposition. 

Dave 
33-2 

Sent from my iPhone 






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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 

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Stus-List Hitachi Alternator woes...

[Dave via CnC-List]

Good evening all,

A new one on me, my batteries no longer appear to be fully charging via the 
alternator, while they do fully charge via shore power.   Specifically, the 
(new) start battery sees only 12.56v while the engine is running, this is not 
sufficient to close the ACR, and the house bank (2 ea, also new, group 31 @ 
130a/h ea).  therefore receives no charge at all.   Surprise!
I believe this means the stock Hitachi 55a alternator is failing.   
Any thoughts on this and any recommendations on a replacement alternator?   

Thanks!  Dave.

Windstar, 33-2 with yanmar 2gm20



Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door

[Dave via CnC-List]

My 33-2 does that if I crank things too tight.   (mast step has been rebuilt), 
and I do not have a hydraulic backstay.  It binds at the top of the doorframe.

There are there are j hooks that are bolted through the mast that grab the cast 
mast partners/ collar to which the halyard turning blocks are mounted.  I 
believe these hooks are there keep the mast collar from being lifted by  pull 
of the halyards.There are shims between the base of the mast and the step 
that can slightly vary height of the mast and therefore the distance between 
the hooks and the step.   S, without those shims, the mast is inclined to 
press the cabin top down, and therefore the top of the head door frame.   If 
shimmed correctly, the hooks don't pull the cabin down, but they keep the deck 
from lifting via halyard pressure etc..
If you have a similar arrangement, this could be impacting things.  

Dave.  33-2


Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 10, 2017, at 4:18 PM, Patrick Davin  wrote:
> 
> Interesting. I inspected my mast step closely when the mast was out, since I 
> know some LF38s have had that issue. Mine looked okay. Dennis when your head 
> door was stuck, was it binding at the top and bottom edges of the door?  
> Given your cabin roof was being pushed down I imagine that's what would 
> happen. My v-berth door is binding at the sides - the bottom 3 feet - so that 
> makes me think it's due to horizontal squeezing of the hull. 
> 
> I know some flex / compression is natural from the forces of the rig on all 
> sailboats, more so on more flexy boats than on older solid fiberglass boats. 
> The LF38 has no deck tie downs at the fwd bulkhead, just the aft bulkhead. So 
> I'm wondering whether that lack of deck tie downs allows the hull to flex 
> more at that fwd section. 
> 
> -Patrick
>  
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: "Dennis C." 
>> To: CnClist 
>> Cc: 
>> Bcc: 
>> Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 14:08:47 -0500
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door
>> Years ago, I installed a hydraulic backstay adjuster on Touche'.  Hot dog!  
>> Picked the boat up from the yard and went out on the lake to try it out.  
>> Cranked it down and, oops, the head door wouldn't open.  Temporary boat 
>> rule:  nobody uses the head going upwind.  Downwind, backstay off, door 
>> opened fine.
>> 
>> Didn't take long to discover deteriorated mast step.  Tightened the rig, the 
>> mast was driven downward into the boat.  The turning blocks on the mast 
>> pushed the collar down, deformed the cabin roof and bound up the head door.
>> 
>> Rebuilt mast step solved issue.
>> 
>> Your experience may be different.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>>> On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 1:43 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I've had this (minor) issue over a year where we can't fully close the 
>>> v-berth door on our Landfall 38. 
>>> 
>>> At first I thought it was just due to heat expansion of the wood in the 
>>> summer, but it started roughly after I tightened the main shrouds a couple 
>>> turns (due to masthead fall off in higher winds). And this winter when I 
>>> had the mast out for rerig I noticed the v-berth door closed fine. 
>>> 
>>> Is this just normal flex for C's?  Anyone else had this issue? 
>>> 
>>> It's binding at the door jamb and the lower right half of the door. I tried 
>>> to check the bulkhead to hull and deck joints, but it's hard to inspect 
>>> those much since they're covered by a permanent liner.
>>> 
>>> Releasing backstay tension doesn't help. So I suspect it's the fwd lowers 
>>> or main shrouds that flex the hull the tiny amount needed to squeeze the 
>>> door frame. I double checked that the tie rods are adequately tensioned and 
>>> there's no upward inflexion of the deck at the U-bolts. 
>>> 
>>> The only thing I can think to do would be to sand down the lower half of 
>>> the door edge and revarnish it.
>>> 
>>> -Patrick
>>> 1984 C Landfall 38
>>> Seattle, WA
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>> 
>> 
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>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Dave via CnC-List]

Will need to check mine, i did a ton of work, and would have noticed what it 
was, but have forgotten.   There was no corrosion anyway.   The in-mast wiring 
was bare copper and uncorroded after 30 years, but it's a fresh water boat.
Dave.
Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 1, 2017, at 10:11 AM, Bruce Whitmore  wrote:
> 
> Agreed as to the warning on the wiring, and as of 1994, no, they did not wire 
> the boats with tinned wire.  I am finding a LOT of the wire in my boat to be 
> blackend with corrosion.  While it is still largely functional, in the back 
> of my mind I'm weighing the long-term need for properly rewiring the boat.  
> 
> :(  
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+
> Madiera Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
> To: "syerd...@gmail.com"  
> Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 1, 2017 8:48 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
> 
> They finally discovered tinned wire?
> J
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: syerd...@gmail.com [mailto:syerd...@gmail.com] 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 8:47 AM
> To: Della Barba, Joe 
> Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
>  
> With the exception of push and pulpit, IMO '85 was done quite well by the 
> factory.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Aug 1, 2017, at 8:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe  wrote:
> Be warned – learned this the hard way – If 1981 C wiring is as good as 1973 
> wiring was, it is ALL about to turn into black dust. I started a one hour 
> project and ended up rewiring my whole boat!
> Speaking of wiring, Blue Seas stuff is great and frequently on Fleabay for a 
> huge discount. Do also go to West Marine and explain you got “hired” to 
> restore a boat and get yourself as Port Supply account.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 6:36 AM
> To: C Stus List 
> Cc: Dave S 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
>  
> Inspect label and secure all wiring.replace as required.
> Inspect and service (as required) all through hulls.
> Inspect (and replace as required)  all hoses.
> Inspect, clean and protect all key electrical grounding points.
> Consider upgraded protection for exposed engine controls and instruments.
> Consider upgraded ventilation for holding tank.
> Ensure batteries are well secured
> Upgrade air movement within lockers etc where possible.
> Inspect and improve any marginal bulkhead tabbing.
> When working on critical deck hardware consider upgrading backing plates, 
> etc, where practical.
> convenient stowage for hatch drop boards, emergency tiller, ditch 
> bag/flares/horn.
> make/buy webbing jacklines
>  
> Howzat?
>  
>  
> Dave
> 33-2
>  
>  
>  
>  
> - Forwarded message --
> From: john wright 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: 
> Bcc: 
> Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 18:35:48 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
> Hello everyone
>  
> I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose 
> ( sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
> after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
> in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.
>  
> I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
> recommendations and reorganizing of the list. 
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Level 1: Repairs and Installations
> Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set
> Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as 
> needed to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e
> Replace all hoses for new engine
> Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location to 
> monitor visually
> Gelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoat
> Clean stains with FSR
> Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)
> Clean teak with teak cleaner
> Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards
> Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces 
> Hull bottom – sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint 
> Re-install mast and tune rigging
> Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again
> Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat
> Repair/ refinish wood framework to companionway
> Re-varnish companionway door
> Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood
> Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit
> Update propane solenoid 
> Remake companionway door cover to fit better
> Deck and House – clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)
> Clean and polish all stainless hardware
> Replace gasket 

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Dave via CnC-List]

With the exception of push and pulpit, IMO '85 was done quite well by the 
factory.

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 1, 2017, at 8:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe  wrote:
> 
> Be warned – learned this the hard way – If 1981 C wiring is as good as 1973 
> wiring was, it is ALL about to turn into black dust. I started a one hour 
> project and ended up rewiring my whole boat!
> Speaking of wiring, Blue Seas stuff is great and frequently on Fleabay for a 
> huge discount. Do also go to West Marine and explain you got “hired” to 
> restore a boat and get yourself as Port Supply account.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 6:36 AM
> To: C Stus List 
> Cc: Dave S 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
>  
> Inspect label and secure all wiring.replace as required.
> Inspect and service (as required) all through hulls.
> Inspect (and replace as required)  all hoses.
> Inspect, clean and protect all key electrical grounding points.
> Consider upgraded protection for exposed engine controls and instruments.
> Consider upgraded ventilation for holding tank.
> Ensure batteries are well secured
> Upgrade air movement within lockers etc where possible.
> Inspect and improve any marginal bulkhead tabbing.
> When working on critical deck hardware consider upgrading backing plates, 
> etc, where practical.
> convenient stowage for hatch drop boards, emergency tiller, ditch 
> bag/flares/horn.
> make/buy webbing jacklines
>  
> Howzat?
>  
>  
> Dave
> 33-2
>  
>  
>  
>  
> - Forwarded message --
> From: john wright 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: 
> Bcc: 
> Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 18:35:48 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
> Hello everyone
>  
> I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my purpose 
> ( sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), 
> after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is 
> in better than average condition, I will post pictures later.
>  
> I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any 
> recommendations and reorganizing of the list. 
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Level 1: Repairs and Installations
> Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set
> Remove old engine, clean and repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as 
> needed to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e
> Replace all hoses for new engine
> Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel filter to easier location to 
> monitor visually
> Gelcoat – fill all chips and nicks with gelcoat
> Clean stains with FSR
> Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy the connections to frame)
> Clean teak with teak cleaner
> Replace teak combing with thicker mahogany boards
> Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces 
> Hull bottom – sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint 
> Re-install mast and tune rigging
> Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again
> Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat
> Repair/ refinish wood framework to companionway
> Re-varnish companionway door
> Make better drainage in port cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood
> Install the new Whale Gusher manual pump in cockpit
> Update propane solenoid 
> Remake companionway door cover to fit better
> Deck and House – clean and re-varnish woodwork (handrails, dorade boxes)
> Clean and polish all stainless hardware
> Replace gasket material on all opening ports
> Repaint all dorade vents
> Replace traveler cam cleat
> Clean, sand and varnish bow platform
> Stanchion support on starboard bent – take to shop and straighten
> Add maintenance coat of varnish on floors and re-secure
> Install and varnish framework for windows
> Repair and revarnish bulkheads where needed
> Re-install all cabinets and tables
> Finish installation of canvas cover for ceiling in forward berth
> Ice box cover – install hardware and gasket
> Head – re-cut new mirror and install
> Forward cabin has trim work that needs to be installed
> Brow in forward cabin to be replaced with new trim work
>  
>  
> Level 2: Updates and Improvements
> Hull repainting – large project to be described as we get closer to that 
> project
> Paint steering pedestal white
> Replace instruments
> Replace opening port in cockpit with new
> Add winch handle holders in cockpit
> Paint new non-skid in cockpit seats and floor
> Make set of cockpit cushions
> Install a cockpit shower
> Re-bed all deck gear, hardware and chainplates (last another 20 years)
> Replace all blocks with updated equipment
> Replace all running rigging
> Replace genoa sheet cars with moveable sheet lead under load
> Replace missing wood bungs on teak toe rail (may need to reset screws deeper 
> as wood has shrunk over time)
> Sand toe rail and varnish
> Winches to be stripped cleaned and 

Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question - spinnaker reach

[Dave via CnC-List]

Next wheelpilot question - mine cannot reliably steer at higher speeds off the 
wind with my asymmetrical set .  It ends up yawing and eventually overpowered.  
Hand steering requires precision in these conditions but is not difficult.  Am 
I expecting too much?
Thx.   Dave, 33-2

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 16, 2017, at 6:06 PM, jackbrennan  wrote:
> 
> Check the belt. My autopilot acted like that when the belt was shot.
> 
> Jack Brennan
> Former C 25
> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> Date:07/16/2017 1:58 PM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Edd Schillay 
> Subject: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question 
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Yesterday, on a dinner trip to Oyster Bay, our autopilot stated to 
> malfunction after about an hour or so.
> 
> It would be holding a course, then start veering to port, then to starboard, 
> then much more to port, then much more to starboard . . and so on. 
> Eventually, it would get so far off (over 90 degrees), a the autopilot would 
> disengage. I shut it down and tried to restart it by cutting power to it for 
> about a minute, then it would happen again after a minute or two. 
> 
> I tries setting the p70 to “performance” to keep the boat more tightly on 
> course, but that had no effect. The display kept showing how far off we were 
> (so I know the EV sensor core was working), but it wasn’t correcting course 
> properly. 
> 
> I ended up turning it off completely, in fears of getting a DUI inquiry from 
> all the S-turns. 
> 
> Any ideas? To clarify, I have a ACU-200 and a ST4000+ wheel pilot. And, up 
> until yesterday, it was working flawlessly. 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
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Re: Stus-List C 40 question - now shower

[Dave via CnC-List]

My dad and his wife did that for two one year cruises.  They painted the 
sprayer black for solar heat.
Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 6, 2017, at 11:57 AM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> 
> On my previous boat I used this:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsN2FwWkxodmJnRUk
> 
> I took a cheap pump up garden sprayer and replaced the nozzle with a generic 
> kitchen sink spray head.  I'd wash in cockpit or on foredeck with lake or 
> brackish water, then rinse with the pump up sprayer.  Worked very well.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Jul 6, 2017 at 10:13 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I agree about spraying water everywhere.  That was one of the selling points 
>> for the 37+.  It has an enclosed shower.  We found considerably larger boats 
>> with 3 or 4 births and 2 or 3 heads and none of the heads had enclosed 
>> showers.  You basically stood/sat on the toilet and used the faucet while 
>> washing down the toilet paper holder.
>> 
>> The 37+ shower isn't perfect.  In fact it is quite tight and for me and 
>> necessitates sitting on the built in bench.  It is hard to use less than 7 
>> gallons of water... But doable.  My wife, her friend, and I all managed to 
>> get one shower each out of a 20 gallon tank and we all have long hair.  We 
>> even had enough hot water.  If it is warm enough we try to use the deck 
>> shower which includes hot water.  If we're in a marina we'll use the 
>> bathhouse.  If we're up a clean-ish and fresh-ish tributary we'll wash off 
>> on the swim platform.
>> 
>> In short, yes I use the shower...on my 37+.  I think the 30 and the 34/36 
>> have similar layouts and I've thought for years that the 30 would have been 
>> a great way to start with a smaller boat.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
> 
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Winch handle holder

[Dave via CnC-List]

Anyone know where to buy these or similar in Canada or the US?
Single
https://www.marine-deals.co.nz/nylon-winch-handle-holder-black
Triple
https://danardmarine.com/product-info.php?pid45.html
Now Dealing with the nuisances on Windstar.
 Thanks, Dave.
33-2

Sent from my iPad___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 music and speakers

[Dave via CnC-List]

Merci sylvain, C'est possible, and I will check for an impedance mismatch, but 
perhaps  I should have been clearer.The setup works ok, I just want better 
sound.   The bass is weak and the amp (I did not want complexity of a 
standalone amp) is  probably underpowered vs the efficiency of the speakers, 
and the aging speakers themselves may be suspect.  
I don't want to chop holes in the boat for a mall-thumping adolescent mating 
call, I just want as close to 'audiophile' as I can get within the existing 
footprint/compromises, and am wondering mostly about the speakers listers may 
have discovered.

Dave.


Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 3, 2017, at 7:54 AM, Sylvain Laplante  
> wrote:
> 
> Maybe the speakers are 8 ohms and the radio output is 4 ohms ( or vice-versa) 
> ?
> Sylvain 
> C 27
> 
> 
> Envoyé de mon iPhone
> 
>> Le 3 juil. 2017 à 07:31, Dave S via CnC-List  a écrit 
>> :
>> 
>> Sorry bout the accidental early send...
>> 
>> So, I did replace Windstar's 1980's Blaupunkt car cassette player that came 
>> with Windstar with a gimmicky but functional Pioneer unit, that has a fancy 
>> lightshow, a remote and many features that I will probably never use.  (the 
>> bluetooth input is great)   I did not even look at the 80's vintage bracket 
>> mounted micro bookshelf speakers.   
>> 
>> The sound quality overall is pretty poor and I suspect that the speakers are 
>> tired, and may be suffering from age.  
>> 
>> Any suggestions as to efficient, compact speakers that can be bracket 
>> mounted in a boat?
>> 
>> Thanks all.
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List engine shut-off t-handle repair or replacement

[Dave via CnC-List]

Nice.  Where did you find that handle?

Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 30, 2017, at 2:37 PM, Marek Dziedzic  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
>  
> Thanks for the suggestion. I did look at Lee Valley, but I did not find what 
> you did. I bought the handle and installed. The total cost $2.50 (CAD). 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/8w4rk7hjs29j66r/20170628_202718.jpg?dl=0
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Marek
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
> From: Dave S via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2017 06:47
> To: C Stus List
> Cc: Dave S
> Subject: Re: Stus-List engine shut-off t-handle repair or replacement
>  
> Marek - 4 thoughts:
>  
>  
> repair the handle with epoxy, with a heavily waxed 1/4-20 bolt or threaded 
> rod inserted.   do it on your workbench at home.  Once it kicks, clamp the 
> bolt in a vise, if necessary gently it heat with a torch, and remove the 
> handle.
> or
> Drill and tap something cool to make a new handle.
> or
> Check busybee, lee valley or McMaster Carr for a replacement handle.  its a 
> common thread size.
> 
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=61652=1,43455,61994=1
> or 
> Drill and tap (if necessary)  a line terminal ball and secure with a nut, or 
> devise a lanyard.
>  
> https://www.westmarine.com/buy/sea-sure--line-stopper-balls--P002_065_006_026?recordNum=12
>  
>  
> Howzat?
>  
>  
> Dave
>  
>  
>  
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C List" 
> Cc: 
> Bcc: 
> Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2017 21:02:00 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List engine shut-off t-handle repair or replacement
> To prevent epoxy from adhering to anything, you can use fiberglass mold 
> release.  You can also use a fiberglass or automotive paste wax.  Or don't 
> and just have the handle permanently attached.  Maybe some JB Weld?  JB Weld 
> Putty?
>  
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
>  
> On Jun 19, 2017 7:42 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> Hello,
>  
> My t-handle on the engine shut-off has some broken threads. When I pulled the 
> handle to turn off the engine, it stayed in my hand. It is a simple 
> replacement, but I could not find a source anywhere in Canada. I found it on 
> SBO and Catalina Direct, but with shipping, taxes, and after the exchange it 
> comes to about $60.
>  
> I considered a proper thread insert, but a kit with a dozen inserts costs 
> about $40.
>  
> I am thinking that there should be a way to restore the threads in a cheaper 
> way. I was wondering if anyone has a reasonable way to do that. I am thinking 
> about spreading some grease on a bolt with the correct size thread, putting 
> some epoxy into the hole, and threading the bolt into the handle. The idea is 
> that the epoxy should attach to the handle and not to the greased bolt. The 
> thread is 1/4 - 20.
>  
> Am I completely out to lunch? Any ideas how to prepare he bolt, so that the 
> epoxy won’t adhere to it?
>  
>  
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Re: Stus-List Landfall 42 sails

[Dave via CnC-List]

Just bought a new main to year and in the interest of better performance chose 
a "full phrf" club racing sail.   I like it, but if I were to do it again I 
would have a slightly higher clew and maybe a bit shorter hoist.   The clew in 
particular is noticeable as the boom is now lower and within skull-cracking 
distance, it was not with the previous main.

Dave

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 29, 2017, at 1:09 PM, Gary Smith  wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I am in the process of acquiring a new set of sails.
> 
> I've had North & Ullman give me quotes and they are within US$70 of each 
> other for all three sails - furling headsail, furling staysail and main for 
> their basic offers. The quoted prices are in the range of $6,600 for all 
> three sails. 
> 
> One of them offered an alternative at $8,200 which had "better" material for 
> the headsail and staysail options.
> 
> As I am a novice sailor I need some assistance please...
> 
> The original sail area according to Sailboatdata.com 
> (http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=2144) is as follows:
> 
> Original
> Main318 ft2 / 29.5 m2 
> Foresail   391 ft2 / 36.3 m2 
>  
> I don't have details on the size of the original Staysail. 
> 
> Here are the sail area values from the 2 vendors.
> 
> Vendor 1
> Main335 ft2 / 31.2 m2 
> Foresail   558 ft2 / 51.8 m2 
> 
> Vendor 2
> Main335 ft2 / 31.1 m2 
> Foresail   466 ft2 / 43.3 m2 
> 
> Although the area of the main from both vendors is similar to the original, 
> the shape of the main is different to the original (not the current). The 
> boom is shorter and mast (P) is longer than the original.
> 
> The original design has a VERY short foresail track which is well aft with 
> the resultant foresail with a high clew as can be seen from the picture at 
> the link. What worries me is that both vendors are offering a foresail which 
> is significantly larger than the original. How would this impact on 
> performance? Will I have the foresail partially furled most of the time?
> 
> The original staysail was a self-tacking, club-footed jib. The proposal from 
> one vendors calls for a new track to be installed roughly midships and the 
> other believes that I can sheet from an existing padeye. Both propose 
> sheeting on the inside of the shrouds.
> 
> Both, in discussion, are advocating the headsail for reaching and the 
> staysail for beating and heavy weather.
> 
> I should add that I intend cruising although a little performance certainly 
> wouldn't go amiss :-).
> 
> Are there any Landfall 42 owners who could share the details of their sail 
> configurations?
> 
> Thanks
> Gary
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Re: Stus-List 33 mk2 Mast step loads

[Dave via CnC-List]

Have been thinking about your post Greg.
Remember, the 33-2 mast step is not only compressed by the mast, it also bears 
the compression load of one of the four large keel bolts.   Don't only think of 
the rig  
Fellow lister Doug A quite wisely convinced me to install compression posts 
when I rebuilt my keel, and the pro repair by Bristol marine here in Toronto 
does the same.

Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 27, 2017, at 1:59 PM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:
> 
> Don’t fill in the hole.  Use it for beer storage!
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Greg 
> Sutherland via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 12:24 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Greg Sutherland
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 33 mk2 Mast step loads
>  
> Thanks everyone for the info. I spoke with Danny from Klacko spars yesterday 
> and he's certain that he would have installed my original mast in '87. He 
> figures even when falling into a wave with full sails the forces wouldn't 
> exceed 4000 psi. Seems light to me but who am I to argue with him. 
> I thought I notice Mr. Knowles at the club on the weekend so I'll definitely 
> run it past him - thanks for mentioning that. 
>  
> I have the entire mast step "excavated" to the keel and am starting the 
> rebuild. Can't wait for this one to be finished! 
>  
> Thanks!
> Greg
> 33 mk2 
> Halifax
> 
> On Jun 27, 2017, at 10:52 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I used a total of ½”  aluminum on mine when I rebuilt it. It looks about 20 
> times stronger than the original was too.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
> CC 35 MK I
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & 
> Melody via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 26, 2017 9:18 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Russ & Melody 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 33 mk2 Mast step loads
>  
> 
> Hi Greg,
> 
> You can research the righting moment, at say 30 - 33 degrees, for various 
> boats in your size range for a second opinion. The 33-2 is similar in 
> stability to my 35 mk-1(check diagram in the Technical Info on Stu's CNC 
> site).
> 
> I put the load at about 10,000 lbs, so building for 12 - 15,000 lbs is not a 
> unreasonable. If you're going with aluminum only then I would spec it at 
> 20,000 for a 50% corrosion allowance and say, "I expect this to last another 
> 20 years."
> 
> BTW, check with Rich Knowles on my credentials, if in doubt. :)
> 
> Hi Rich, we miss you on the Left Coast. 
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> At 03:15 AM 26/06/2017, you wrote:
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what the maximum load would be on the mast step of the 33? 
> I'm trying to figure out the psi force for a rebuild
> Thanks!
> 
> Greg
> 33-2 
> Halifax
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Sailing NS to NY

[Dave via CnC-List]

Lol...   I was thinking the same thing.   Well done Violleta!

Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 25, 2017, at 2:16 PM, David  wrote:
> 
> I don't know AndyVioletta looks a little shallow on the credentials...
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List  
> Date: 6/25/17 8:14 AM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Violeta Ivanova  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing NS to NY 
> 
> Hi Andy,
> 
> Do you still need crew for this delivery? I will be interested in coming for 
> this one and/or getting on your crew list in general.
> 
> Brief resume for me: USCG Master 50 Ton Inland license with sail endorsement 
> (brand new Oct 2016, exp 2021), certified sailing instructor for ASA basic 
> keelboat sailing, basic coastal cruising, and coastal navigation. The ink is 
> still drying on the last one, I just got certified as an ASA instructor in 
> March. Since then I did my first Atlantic crossing as a watch captain 
> (actually, solo watches) on a Hallberg Rassy 40 (Tortola-Bermuda-Faial). I am 
> looking to buy my own boat now, checking out a Swan 40 among other things. I 
> got the captain's license, so I could teach sailing, and would like to have 
> my own sailing school on day. I am based in Boston, but don't spend much time 
> there this year. I've been sailing almost full time since February. When I am 
> in Boston, I skipper MIT's 1970s C custom 43 xDimension (XD). I posted some 
> XD-related questions a while ago and the C listers were super helpful. 
> 
> If you'd like to talk, let me know. My US phone is off right now, because I 
> am still in Europe after the crossing, but I get back to the US in July. You 
> can reach me at this email or my MIT email viol...@mit.edu. If you want to 
> chat on the phone, I can call you at a convenient time. For future reference, 
> my US mobile is +1.857.366.1706, but again, it's off right now. 
> 
> My guess is this is a delivery back home of a boat that will race from 
> Marblehead to Halifax. Out of curiosity, are you racing too? 
> 
> Fair winds,
> 
> Violeta
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Jun 24, 2017 at 5:05 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi everyone,
>> I have to bring a racer/cruiser from exotic Halifax, Nova Scotia to NY 
>> leaving around July 14. I am in need of a third hand for the trip. The boat 
>> is an Xp 44. It's an excellent boat (I brought it back after they won the 
>> Bermuda race last summer); kind of a modern take on what our boats might 
>> have been like if they'd been designed last year instead of 40 years ago!
>> Anyway, if anyone would like to sign on for the trip drop me a line or call. 
>> I have room for one or two people. All reasonable expenses will be on me. My 
>> mate and I plan on going up a day early and renting a car to have a look 
>> around the area before we head to the boat.
>> 
>> Cheers
>> Andy
>> C 40
>> Peregrine
>> 
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett
>> Newport, RI
>> USA02840
>> 
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> +401 965-5260
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
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Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[Dave via CnC-List]

Verrry interesting.your refrigeration unit is in a completely different 
location.   Windstar has a plywood separator dividing the two spaces, but it's 
only a foot high at its tallest.  I was thinking after reading this thread to 
make a machine guard to cover the rotating parts, essentially leaving what I 
have intact. 
Was in FB on Saturday, didn't think to look for you.  Should have studied your 
boat more when you visited!
Btw, Canada day and harbour day festivities are combined next weekend in 
Whitby.   Lots going on, probably the best weekend to visit if you can get a 
slip.  (I'm still on pier 7)


Dave.  

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 25, 2017, at 7:02 PM, Doug Welch  wrote:
> 
> Done 
> 
> C 33-2 Cockpit Locker Separator
> 
> C 33-2 Cockpit Locker Separator
> By Imgur
> Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet.
> 
> 
> 
> On Thursday, June 8, 2017 9:44 AM, doug.welch--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Thanks all for your input and ideas. I will share the solution I implement on
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> On Wed, 7 Jun 2017 at 6:41 PM, Tortuga via CnC-List
>  wrote:
> On my 30, I use a piece of fishing net stretched between broom handles. I can 
> drop the top handle to access the engine compartment. I try not to stow 
> anything in the lazarette that is small enough to go through the net. So far 
> so good. 
> 
> https://1drv.ms/i/s!AkpvkGQ7RaWRhvUpERLYFLJ4uYH1gQ
> 
> Derek Kennedy
> 1979 C 30 mk1- Tortuga
> Ballantyne's Cove, NS
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 on mast clam cleats - are they still available?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis.   I found clamcleat, (which was what I thought they were called) 
 who I think is the patent holder, and is identified as the manufacturer for 
Selden's equivalent.   I could not find the same form factor in clamcleat's 
offering but maybe I missed it.  

The question you ask is a good one.  I have had fun single handing with a 
spinnaker, learning the hard (but fun) way why one might need to manage the 
halyard at the mast, and am trying to decide the approach.  

The  33-2 has 3 fore halyards.   One is used for the jib, the other two are on 
either side of that and are referred to to as port and starboard wing halyards. 
 When I got Windstar only one was rigged.   There is a spare sheave for the 
heretofore unused one on the 5-sheave deck organizer, but no clutch or cleat 
available on the cabin top.

So, basically I have the choice of a mast-belayed starboard wing halyard in 
addition to the cockpit belayed port wing halyard,  or adding clutch capacity 
to starboard, and a parking cleat to one or both.   

Simplest is to have one at the mast and one at the cockpit, maybe with a 
parking cleat installed on the cockpit-belayed port side halyard.   Maybe a 
standard horn cleat on the mast for the starboard halyard.  The halyards are 
internal, so a stop-knotted halyard cannot fly out of reach.

Thoughts?

Dave.


Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 18, 2017, at 9:16 AM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> 
> Those, or a similar version should be available from Ronstan, Camcleat, 
> Selden and others.  They are called open V-cleats.  
> 
> http://www.mauripro.com/us/product/SEL432010R.html
> 
> However, I need to ask exactly what you intend to do with it.  If you are 
> going to permanently cleat the halyard I'd consider a rope clutch instead.  
> If you are looking to temporarily cleat a spinnaker halyard after hoisting 
> until the pit person can tidy up and take up slack in the tail, then I'd 
> recommend a spinnaker halyard parking cleat.  The bracket can be found here:
> 
> http://www.apsltd.com/spinnaker-halyard-parking-bracket.html
> 
> Mount a Harken 150 aluminum cam cleat in it.  I have one on Touche' and it 
> works pretty slick.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Sun, Jun 18, 2017 at 6:58 AM, Dave S via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Looking to have one of my wing halyards terminate or at least be cleat-able 
>> at the mast, and would like to match the existing hardware.
>> Does anyone know who made these and whether they are still available?  
>> 
>> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2017/06/who-made-these-cleats.html
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Job and spinnaker sheets

[Dave via CnC-List]

Brad, search on this thread, from May.

RE: Stus-List 33-2 secondary winches and t-track - worth considering?

Dave, 33-2

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 11, 2017, at 9:32 PM, Bradley Lumgair  wrote:
> 
> We have 2 sets of jib track on Pulse, a short set inboard and a standard set, 
> both ending abut the same place. The long set lines up nicely with the 
> turning blocks, and the sheets feed nicely to either set of winches. The 
> inboard set wrap  badly when grinding and don't feed well to the turning 
> blocks. Does anyone have a second set and how do you rig? They may work 
> better with a smaller jib?
> Do you use lazyguys when flying your spinnaker? Where do you rig 
> snatchblocks?  Does anyone have a rigging diagram? Dont see anything in my 
> C owners manual, and the gentleman we bought from wasn't a wealth of 
> knowledge.
> Thanks
> Brad
> Pulse
> C 33 MkII
> Lake Huron
> 
> Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Good thing the brackets are still there.   You know, I will need to look at the 
boat to determine what the valves are for, I really don't know though I would 
assume to isolate the hot water tank.
I hope you got out for a sail today - fantastic conditions a few miles out, 
windstar was flying.
Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 11, 2017, at 7:24 PM, Doug Welch  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Dave. I have the hose coming from the ice box and the clamps where the 
> pump was affixed to the side, so I suspect my was plumbed the same way and I 
> just have to replace the pump. 
> 
> I notice your intake set up is the same as mine with a tee, two valves with 
> one running through a filter. What is the purpose of this set up? Do the 
> different valves draw from differnt locations? 
> 
> Thanks
> Doug
> 
> 
> On Sunday, June 11, 2017 9:56 AM, Dave S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> All, I have posted some photos - of interest may be the factory location of 
> the Beckson Siphonmate pump, (in windstar, 1985 33-2)  as well as Lee's dual 
> footpump repurpose..
> 
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2017/06/how-to-drain-ice-box.html
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
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Stus-List Bye bye pretty boat.

[Dave via CnC-List]

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-boat-parts-trailer-accessories/hamilton/c-c-corvette-sail-boat-31ft-parts-and-sails/1255274199?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Had mulled over Corvette project - essentially free - before buying Windstar.  

Dave   33-2 Windstar 

Sent from my iPad___

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Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Lee - Where does the outbound hose go?Coiled under the sink, and pulled out 
when needed?
Would like to plumb mine in somehow.

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 5, 2017, at 3:37 PM, Lee Rosenbaum  wrote:

>> On my '85 33-2 we have the ice box drain connected to the foot pump under 
>> the sink.
> This way we can just pump the water out of the ice box into the sink when 
> needed.
> 
> We have two foot pumps: 1) for water from the water tank, 2) Water from ice 
> box.
> 
> Lee Rosenbaum
> Kookaburra 1985 33-2
> Kenosha, WI
>  
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2017 18:04:38 +
>> From: Tim Sippel 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom
>> of the ice box drain to?
>> Message-ID:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> On my 85 , it drains into the bilge , it often clogged , I cut out an access 
>> panel and found the hose was about a foot longer than necessary and had a 
>> loop in it (wtf) once cut to proper length and loop removed , no issues .
>> 
>> Tim Sippel
>> 
>> Matico
>> 33Mkii
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Dave via CnC-List]

Same.   And I bring my main halyard back when putting the boat away.   Both it 
and the topping lift attached to a soft shackle at the boom end.   

Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 2, 2017, at 8:26 PM, john sandford  wrote:
> 
> Seems the reason that having a topping lift is even an issue, is that most 
> folks don’t have it lead back to the cockpit, where they can do ‘instant’ 
> adjustments
> Mine is lead forward on the boom, down and back to a camcleat in the cockpit 
> area.
> I can work it as needed to adjust twist, or not, and also can lay full weight 
> on the boom when im putting the main away.
> Never does it chafe my Luff for more than a  minute.
> Never does it even kiss my backstay.
> But.. that’s just me
> John
> LF38
>  
>  
>  
> From: Rick Brass [mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net] 
> Sent: June-02-17 2:57 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>  
> The springs in the solid vang (or hydraulic pressure, or bent fiberglass in 
> the case of a boomkicker) supports the boom. Tensioning or easing the control 
> line on the vang controls luff tension – easing the line induces twist.
>  
> The topping lift has two main purposes:
> It screws up your tacks in light air when it wraps around the backstay
> It makes money for your sailmaker when it abrades the leach of your mainsail
>  
> And you don’t need to leave the cockpit to adjust the rigid vang as you do 
> when you invariably forget to adjust the topping lift before actually going 
> sailing.
>  
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
> Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, June 02, 2017 9:06 AM
> To: C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>  
> I agree with the limited value added by a topping lift.  I've considered 
> getting rid of mine.  Then I realized that I tie off my mainsail sail pack to 
> it.  A topping lift also allows some control of the luff tension which can 
> induce twist...if desired.  The boat I race on has never had a topping lift.
>  
> Josh
>  
> On Jun 2, 2017 8:44 AM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella 
> blue”. The documentation is outstanding.
>  
> Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid vang. 
> My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above horizontal 
> unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years ago.
>  
> Gary
> 30-1
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian 
> Davis via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Brian Davis 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>  
> Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If you 
> have pictures as well please email me some directly. 
>  
> Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and also 
> have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this list also 
> helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have not seen 
> his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a reference for 
> other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an amazing job 
> documenting his work.
>  
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html
>  
> On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Hey Brian, 
>  
> I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it is 
> relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel eye 
> splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the 
> halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end and 
> figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the boom 
> has room to be lifted.
>  
> Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.
>  
> Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the 
> boom just forward of the dodger.
>  
> Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot like 
> my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to the 37 
> but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance that yours 
> is a 37?
>  
> Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?
>  
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
>  
>  
>  
>  
> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> Greetings everyone,
>  
> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I 
> have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully 
> educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old 
> rope guides that keep the main from falling on 

Re: Stus-List C 33-2 livability improvement - settee access

[Dave via CnC-List]

So, they changed in later years I guess.   As discussed my '85 has water tank 
under starboard settee.   Opposite side from the batteries, chart table, head, 
but same as water heater, range, refrigeration.  Not sure why really.  Deck 
fill opposite side from pumpout?

Dave

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 4, 2017, at 12:42 PM, Bruno Lachance  
> wrote:
> 
> Nice Dave,
> 
> On my 1987 33 mk II the water tank is port side under this sette and it is 
> original, so the starboard side is storage and more accessible.  This must 
> have an impact in weight distribution? 
> 
> How many 33 mk II owners have their tank on the starboard side?
> 
> Bruno lachance
> Bécassine, 1987 33mkii
> New-Richmond, Qc.
> 
> Envoyé de mon iPad
> 
> Le 4 juin 2017 à 10:06, Doug Welch via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
>> Great idea. My boat has two pull out drawers underneath the settee that look 
>> like they might be original (teak that matches the rest of the boat) 
>> however, your solution makes much more sense. I'm adding this to my list :)
>> 
>> Doug Welch
>> Celtic Knot 33-2 c/b
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Saturday, June 3, 2017 7:14 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Added some access hatches below deck - improved livability.  pics below
>> 
>> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2017/05/port-side-settee-stowage-access.html
>> 
>> Dave
>> 1985 33-2 Windstar
>> ___
>> 
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>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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>> 
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Re: Stus-List Intriguing challenge

[Dave via CnC-List]

YES.  Bore the slide hole oversize vs the pin, the track is protected by the 
pin.  Extract the pin.  
Dave.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 4, 2017, at 5:46 PM, Jim Watts  wrote:
> 
> I would drill the top hole way oversize (like 3/8") and pull the whole works 
> out through it. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 4 June 2017 at 11:50, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Good idea, but with my luck and shaky hands, I'd probably glue the slide to 
>> the track.  :)  At the least, I'd get glue in the spring so it wouldn't lift.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>>> On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 1:35 PM, randy via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> Ouch, Dennis, but I wonder if a drop of five minute epoxy on a small bolt 
>>> or dowel could be used?  Perhaps a little oil squirted in to defeat 
>>> adhesion around pin/track, clean top of pin, and glue.  Go have a couple of 
>>> barley pops (ne’er mind that, wait til done!), and then with some judicious 
>>> wiggling of slide, lift dowel and pin enough to move slide to top of track? 
>>>  At that point a piece of tin could be slid between slide and track to 
>>> slide back to remove.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Just a thought, perhaps you can develop better.  Good Luck,
>>> 
>>> randy
>>> 
>>> Tamanawas
>>> 
>>> 29-II
>>> 
>>> Hood River, OR
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis 
>>> C. via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Sunday, June 4, 2017 10:28 AM
>>> To: CnClist 
>>> Cc: Dennis C. 
>>> Subject: Stus-List Intriguing challenge
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Was replacing end stops on the jib track this week and noticed a knurled 
>>> knob on the deck.  It was the pull knob for the jib slide.  See pic:
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWm0yY3FCT0x3TjA
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Note knob in shadow and the top of the pull pin on the slide.  It is a 
>>> spring pin slide.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I have found a replacement slide but now need to remove the broken one.  
>>> This is the challenge.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Option 1:  Tie line to slide, take to winch and tension to "bind" pin in 
>>> hole in T-track.  Drill and tap pin and insert machine screw to lift pin in 
>>> order to slide it off.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Option 2:  Cut slide lengthwise, separate and remove.  I have Dremel, 
>>> RotoZip and side grinder.  Side grinder and RotoZip would be great but they 
>>> have a way of getting away from me.  I don't need a bunch of gouges in the 
>>> deck.  Might take a lot of cutting wheels with the Dremel but higher 
>>> comfort level with control of tool.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Option 3:  Remove the T-track.  Plug all the holes on one end, drill hole 
>>> from back side to push pin up and slide off.  Probably would have to drill 
>>> a couple holes.  This is by far least desirable option.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Option 4:  Drill/grind metal from top of slide to expose pin, remove spring 
>>> and try to remove pin with needle nose pliers, hemostat, magnet?, etc.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Option 5:  Remove T-track, dumpster it and the slide.  Install new track.  
>>> Seems dumb.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Options 1 and 4 seem best.  Probably won't do this job for several weeks 
>>> since I don't expect to use the slide anytime soon.  Will advise how it 
>>> went.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> A, the joy of boat ownership.  :)
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> 
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> 
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20 now ICom 506

[Dave via CnC-List]

Agreed with Paul - my n2k/AIS ICOM m506 displays GPS data from the n2k Garmin 
antenna reliably.  In fact an alarm goes off to warn me of no gps data if I 
turn off the instruments but not the gps.  

Similarly, the ais data provided by the M506 displays on The Raymarine i70 
display.  So, it works both ways.

This worked all last season as well, so if there was an issue it predates late 
2015/2016.  (Radio purchased Jan 2016) 

What does not work is getting the AIS data to via gateway to devices outside 
the wired n2k network.   Working on that.

Dave



Sent from my iPhone

> On May 24, 2017, at 5:29 AM, Paul Fountain  wrote:
> 
> Not sure this is still the case ... I just installed an icom 506 AIS/ N2K 
> radio, and it and my ray N2K MFD they recognized each other and the radio got 
> the gps info right away, and the AIS info was showing on the MFD once the 
> antenna was connected. There are no 0183 devices left on Perception. 
> 
> Get Outlook for iOS
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jerome Tauber via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2017 3:56:12 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jerome Tauber
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20
>  
> From a cruising forum.
> 
> So my partner contacted ICOM UK, who said that despite what is printed in the 
> manual, the Icom M506 does not support obtaining a GPS position over NMEA 
> 2000. The menu option to select an NMEA 2000 GPS source does nothing.
> 
> Apparently they had compatibility issues with different manufacturers' MFDs 
> when designing the radio, so at the last minute they pulled support for 
> obtaining position information via NMEA 2000. They have asked ICOM Japan for 
> a firmware update to fix this, but none has been forthcoming.
> 
> So caveat emptor. I would still recommend this radio, on the proviso that you 
> are able to provide position info via NMEA 0183. Without it you will still 
> get AIS on your plotter (but not the radio), but the radio will not be able 
> to make GPS tagged DSC calls, which is obviously concerning.
> 
> It's advertised as a fully native NMEA 2000 device, but at this time it is 
> not.
> 
> Jerry
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: John McKay via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: John McKay 
> Sent: Tue, May 23, 2017 9:02 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20
> 
> I believe my network is set up properly. I have given Garmin a schematic of 
> everything on it and they have not suggested changes.
> 
> I failed to say in my original question that I have a GMI 20 display right 
> next (T's attached to each other) to the GNX 20 display and the GMI 20 works 
> flawlessly. I have switched the two drop cables between the T's. Garmin 
> cannot explain why the GNX 20 fails and the GMI 20 continues flawlessly.
> 
> Thanks for everyone's suggestions so far.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 8:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Is your N2K network properly terminated?  Another thing to check.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
> On May 23, 2017, at 7:26 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> John – 
>  
> Also check the voltage at the unit.  Pin-out of the cable is available 
> online.  N2K circuits have limits to the number of devices and the power 
> consumption of all devices, length of cable, etc.   Double check to make sure 
> you’re inline.  N2k also has issues if multiple power supplies exist – just 
> in case that accidently happened.  
>  
> Others can probably provide more thoughts. 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:   
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Aqua signal 25 direct LED replacement?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Thanks Derek - will be interested in your opinion - iirc there was a line of 
lights that uses standard twin lead electronics-type leds as a light source - 
might be those.  Wasn't thinking about this project when I saw them (it was at 
Nat's in Pickering I think).  

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 7, 2017, at 10:37 AM, Derek McLeod  wrote:
> 
> I ordered a set of Victory LED lights from Boulet Lemelin Yacht in Quebec and 
> it appears they will fit the existing holes in the stainless brackets. I am 
> also replacing Aqua Signal 25's. I can't really speak to the quality of them 
> yet as they are not installed but they were very reasonably priced. I figure 
> the UV exposure is going to take a toll on whatever product is installed. 
> 
> Derek McLeod 
> 1983 C 29-2, Aileron 
> Toronto
> 
>> On May 7, 2017, at 6:59 AM, Dave S  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi all - Windstar is enjoying new Marinebeam LED nav-lighting on the mast, 
>> but still has the original aqua signal 25 (i think that's the series) 
>> running lights mounted on the pulpit and pushpit.  Port starboard and stern. 
>>  
>> 
>> Would like to avoid swiss-cheesing the existing mounting flanges, or 
>> fabricating an adaptor plate, etc   changing the bulb is an option but 
>> not my first choice. 
>> 
>> 
>> IS anyone aware of quality LED nav lights that are a direct 
>> footprint-compatible replacement for the AS25?   
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>> 

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Re: Stus-List Aqua signal 25 direct LED replacement?

[Dave via CnC-List]

It's a good question josh,  and changing the bulb is my second choice.  

 One reason is that a purpose built led fixture is typically more efficient.  
You can orient the sources in the correct direction.  This is compromised in 
traditional light sources (or led lamps which mimic same) where optics and 
reflectors are required to re distribute the light and improve efficiency.  
(Ok, I'm in the lighting biz)
Another reason is that my existing lights' lenses are crazed and the wire is 
crumbling  - so, im into minor project anyway.
Third, I want a sealed, hard wired fixture.  I don't know if the led bulb will 
suffer from corrosion issues, but  it will be installed and ignored for much 
longer than the standard festoon bulb. 
Last reason is 'cuz I'm 53 years old, and I can.  :-). The work on the boat has 
been done to a high standard, which is a pleasure in itself.

All that said, the retrofit lamp is choice 2.

Dave


Sent from my iPhone

> On May 7, 2017, at 10:01 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> Why isn't changing the bulb a first choice?  Marinebeam has the bulbs.  I've 
> bought them.  They work great.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On May 7, 2017 7:00 AM, "Dave S via CnC-List"  wrote:
>> Hi all - Windstar is enjoying new Marinebeam LED nav-lighting on the mast, 
>> but still has the original aqua signal 25 (i think that's the series) 
>> running lights mounted on the pulpit and pushpit.  Port starboard and stern. 
>>  
>> 
>> Would like to avoid swiss-cheesing the existing mounting flanges, or 
>> fabricating an adaptor plate, etc   changing the bulb is an option but 
>> not my first choice. 
>> 
>> 
>> IS anyone aware of quality LED nav lights that are a direct 
>> footprint-compatible replacement for the AS25?   
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
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Stus-List 33–2 secondary winches and t-track - worth considering?

[Dave via CnC-List]

The 33-2 deck has provision for secondary jib sheet winches and sheet lead 
blocks on a short length of coaming-mounted t-track.   Windstar does not have 
either installed.

How useful are the secondary winches and the coaming-mounted sheet leads?

Thanks!   Dave.

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Kids entertainment

[Dave via CnC-List]

My kids are older  podcasts (like 'the moth') or radio dramas, new and old. 
 The kids rarely experience storytelling in this way, and it is a 
looked-forward-to experience before bed time on the boat.  Kerosene lamp only 
of course!  
(I save the podcasts to my iPad which connects via Bluetooth to the stereo...)
I'm sure there are similar options for younger kids.  

Dave.  

Agreed on lego as well, and of course reading for older ones. 






Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 12, 2017, at 8:03 PM, Kevin Paxton  wrote:
> 
> Hey everyone,
> We are looking for ideas for kids entertainment on our 34'. We have 3 young 
> kids (19mo, 2, and 5) and 1 preteen (12).  What have you all done to get them 
> involved and also entertained during sails?
> 
> We are also looking for ideas and set ups on showing movies when things get a 
> little crazy and we need a break. What kind of setups do you all have?  TV 
> size, portable, fixed, DVD/Blu-ray, power, mounting etc?
> 
> Thanks,
> Kevin 

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