Stus-List Re: help with hull numbers

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

In the case of the 30-1, from the numbers I have heard of, I don’t think there 
were skips. I have #593, and it was built in late 1980. From the ones numbered 
in the high 200’s which were built in 1974, that gives them six years to build 
300 boats – 50 a year. One per week? Does not seem to be out of line.

 

Gary

St. Michaels Maryland

 

From: cenelson via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, October 8, 2021 9:37 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: cenelson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: help with hull numbers

 

Has it been determined that C never skipped some hull numbers as different 
modifications to say a 30 Mk I were incorporated.

 

In that case perhaps hull number 129 was followed by hull #200 which was the 
same ‘model’ but incorporated a new/improved something or other.

 

Skipping numbers in a sequence is not unheard of in many industries.

 

Charlie Nelson

 




Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS 
 

On Friday, October 8, 2021, 9:03 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I think 351 C 35 MKI and MK II combined. Only 147 MKII’s and 204 MKl’s.  And 
the marine carpenters did real nice teak work back in the mid 70’s and the 
hulls are thick solid polyester resin with glass fibre. No coring like balsa 
below the toe rail. Heavy and tough yet sleek looking and fast. No 
characteristic sword and dagger but unmistakable C quality.  I love the shear 
lines of my MKII and the extensive teak carpentry below decks. However, 
Considering the work required nowadays and the type of sailing I enjoy, I think 
I would trade my 35MKII for a good 30 MKI with diesel auxiliary power. 

On Fri, Oct 8, 2021 at 8:53 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I have a 1973 C 35 Mk I, so in 73 they were not on MK IIs yet. I am hull 
number 179. The number of boats they built seems inconceivable today and they 
weren’t cheap, we paid more for our USED 35 than we did for our house!

 

Joe

Coquina

 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, October 8, 2021 5:37 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: dwight veinot mailto:dwight...@gmail.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: help with hull numbers

 

I think you got it right. The C 30 MKI was a very popular design and my 
experience she is one helluva good boat. The company was turning out a lot of 
boats in 1974. My 35MK II hull 242 was also a 1974 model. I am not sure if 
there was a 1973 35MKII. Your 30 is one of the stiffest designs in the C line 
and slippery too. Good accommodations below as well. Congrats you got a good 
one. 

 

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 Thanks - Stu

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Stus-List Re: Prepping for overland transport

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Why are you not thinking about just motoring it down the Potomac and around to 
Solomons? It could be an adventure and avoid the hassles. Is the mast still up? 
Could you find a yard in Solomons who would do the work? Just asking. To me 
(with a 30-1) putting it on a truck for 100 miles seems not right.

 

Gary

St. Michaels MD

 

From: Stephen Kidd via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2021 9:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stephen Kidd 
Subject: Stus-List Prepping for overland transport

 

Hi all,

 

The excellent advise a couple weeks ago on replacing standing rigging led us 
down a rabbit hole. Long story short, we are now getting ready to have our 25, 
Sweet Chariot, moved from Washington DC to Solomons MD on the Chesapeake. A 
much longer drive, but better sailing and boat yard options.

 

We've never had her moved by trailer, and I'm curious what we should expect of 
the hauler. One says we should have the boat fully prepped with mast secured to 
deck. Another said they prefer to do it all themselves (which I also prefer). 

 

Any tips for getting her ready for a road trip or dealing with boat haulers? 
We've checked with a few people in the area, but any recommendations would be 
appreciated as well!

 

Thanks!

Stephen

 

Just asking

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Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C 33-II vs 35-II now race course design

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I’m surprised that nobody has mentioned the Chesapeake Bay PHRF which has 
adopted multiple ratings for boats. They have Circular/Random ratings which 
cover the kinds of courses which run around government marks and have all kinds 
of directions and they have W/L ratings for those courses. Messy but trying to 
cover the bases. Th main issue is they give all us old folks with old types of 
boats (read C) the same ratings for all courses. That’s why more boats are 
racing CRCA and CHESS (Ches Bay Short Handed). That’s why I don’t bother any 
more. 

 

Gary

30-1

Maryland

 

From: David Risch via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2021 7:14 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: David Risch 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C 33-II vs 35-II now race course design

 

It was my understanding that PHRF ratings factored in reaching.  

 

That said.   1 ¼ mile W/L course(s) on a sym 40’  got old real fast.   Needed 8 
crew.  And then burnt out that crew in a 4 race a day regatta.   No fun. 

 

We stopped that silliness years ago.  

 

Only long distance now.

 

From: Randal Stafford via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, September 10, 2021 10:58 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Randal Stafford mailto:randal.staff...@icloud.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C 33-II vs 35-II now race course design

 

This debate has raged within Colorado Sail & Yacht Club for the last several 
years.  The J/22 racers argue that the larger PHRF boats (spinnaker or not) 
should sail windward/leeward courses like they do.  The larger PHRF boats 
(including spinnaker boats) like reaching because that’s when they’re fastest.  
And it’s not unusual for RC’s best-laid plans to be ruined by mother nature 
(e.g. 180-degree wind shifts after a race has started on a course around fixed 
buoys).

 

I conclude that a single rating number is a poor compromise across multiple 
points of sail and a range of wind speeds - it’s like estimating a surface with 
a point.  I win when it’s blowing hard, but get beat in light air by asym boats 
on broad reach.  There’s no way a single number can equalize boats across all 
possible courses and conditions.

 

So as an experiment we’ve done what Donald Kern mentioned in another reply - 
sometimes we make the J/22s and Capri 22s sail triangles in addition to W/L, 
and the larger PHRF boats sail W/L in addition to triangles, using long courses 
that combine course types.  At the very least it gives us some empathy for each 
other.

 

Cheers,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C 30-1 #79

Ken Caryl, CO

 

On Sep 10, 2021, at 12:49 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Joe, Kenny Read agrees with you. He wrote an article to that effect some months 
ago. 

 

Andy

Andrew Burton

26 Beacon Hill

Newport, RI 

USA 02840

 

+401 965 5260

https://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 

 

 

 

 

On Sep 10, 2021, at 12:35, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

I have been in races that were almost 100% downwind or 100% upwind, thanks to 
perfect timing of wind shifts. Somehow it worked out and the PHRF ratings are 
what they are and we dealt with it.

I know many people disagree, but IMHO making big boat racing resemble dinghy 
racing and making dinghy racing a science experiment with perfect upwind and 
downwind legs has not been a good thing at all. I once had 3 dinghy fleets and 
sent the Lasers reaching up the river a bit to deconflict them with the other 
fleets and I never heard so much whining – we can’t sail on a REACH! It turned 
out you actually can if the RC makes you 

YMMV

Joe 

Coquina



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   Thanks - Stu

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Stus-List Re: IDA - C check in

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Glad you’re OK, hope Touche’ is.

Gary in Maryland

 

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2021 5:06 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: IDA - C check in

 

The Admiral and I spent a scary sleepless night listening to 50-70 mph gusts 
working on the many big trees around the house. One branch took out a couple 
panes of glass in the master bedroom and the top 15-20 feet of a large oak tree 
in the front yard bent over but stayed in the tree. Lots of branches in the 
yard this morning. Otherwise we’re okay. 

 

Fortunately, the eye passed about 20 miles east of us so we got very little 
rain. 

 

We have no power, internet or cable.  We just got cell phone service about an 
hour ago. 

 

The water in Touche’s marina was 4.5 feet over the dock.  I have not heard any 
news about Touche’ yet. The water is still high in the marina. 

 

Our friends in New Orleans might not have been so fortunate. Hope to hear from 
Ed Levert and Kevin Benoit but suspect it may be a while.  A major electrical 
transmission tower blew down and left all of Orleans Parish without power. That 
will not be an easy fix. 

 

Dennis C.

Touché 35-1 #83

Mandeville,LA





On Aug 30, 2021, at 8:10 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Everyone OK in the Gulf area?

 

BTW, either a storm jib or storm jib + triple reefed main works for me in 50.

50 foot waves though ………..I think I would pass on that one! That is almost 
mast height! YIKES! I have never been in waves higher than the boat is long and 
look to continue that trend. 

 

Joe 

Coquina

C 35 MK I

 

From: Bill and Gaynor Hoyne via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2021 1:31 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Stu mailto:s...@snghost.com> >; Bill and Gaynor Hoyne 
mailto:ho...@telus.net> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Don't forget the upcoming rendezvous

 

Hi All,

I am on a drillship just south east of hurricane Ida. We rode out the edge of 
the hurricane last night. We were about 80-100 miles from the centre of the 
storm. It was a bumpy ride! Saw some 50’ waves and 50+ knots wind. Lots of big 
breaking waves. I was wondering what sail configuration would have worked out 
here :-) :-) 

If the internet is working better I will try to join the meeting.

The Hurricane is about to hit New Orleans and Louisiana later this morning. 
Lets let Dennis and the southern gang know we are thinking of them! I wish them 
all the best, it’s going to be a tough go!

 

Stay safe out there!!

 

Bil

 

Bill Hoyne

Mithrandir

’74 C MkII

in Victoria,BC

 






 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

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Stus-List Re: C smile and rust

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

>From remembering what my keel sump looked like before I filled it with epoxy, 
>it could be where something like a garboard drain used to be (but mine was 
>bronze) or something else rusting in that area. I would want access to that 
>area (is the mast in or out?) from inside or have it drilled out and examined. 
>I have the usual smile, but as I remember, that area inside was empty. Dropped 
>pliers? Look inside – is there a keel bolt in that area? I keep thinking my 
>most forward is aft of that spot, but could be wrong.

 

Gary Nylander

#593

 

From: Steve Mallett via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, August 3, 2021 3:09 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Steve Mallett 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C smile and rust

 

Possibly a garboard drain from the bilge, but I would search out what is 
causing the "rusty" water. Something corroding inside the boat?

 

Steve Mallett 

C Second Lady

Dartmouth, NS

 

On Tue, Aug 3, 2021, 3:45 PM Greg Van Nest via CnC-List, mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi, I'm new here. I tried posting this a couple days ago, but I don't know if 
it went through.  I apologize if it did--I'm not trying to be irritating.  

 

I tried searching the archives regarding my question, but didn't find anything 
exactly helpful. 

 

I was looking at a Mk I C 30, and noticed the "C Smile" on both sides of 
the keel. From what I've read, it's not a terrible problem. Certainty not a 
non-starter, walkway problem. 

 

But there's also a rust stain that looks like it starts above the keel joint. 
Anyone have any idea what this might be?  It's only on the port side, not 
starboard, although both sides have the smile. 

 

I haven't had a chance to look closely at the boat, just a walk-around outside 
without the owner. I hope to look at it closer this week, including interior 
and looking in the bilge, but thought I'd ask here first what people think. 
I've linked two pictures (port and starboard). 

 

Thanks in advance for any advice or insight,

 

Greg

 

Rusty port: https://photos.app.goo.gl/s7juWvBn86WozXAc9

Starboard: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pPdfCkc2mTs47ZXE9

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Stus-List Re: Checking the list

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Oh damn. Sorry to hear about that. I’m not sure I would have the fortitude to 
rebuild anything that extensively. I hope you come out OK and get back on the 
water next winter.

 

Gary Nylander

St. Michaels MD

 

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, August 1, 2021 9:49 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Checking the list

 

My sailing season ended the night of May 17 when we got 12 inches of localized 
rain in 2 hours.  A short time later the Admiral, Lexie the cat crew and I were 
sitting on the bed watching stuff float through our bedroom in 18 inches of 
water.  A few days later after loading two roll off dumpsters full of saturated 
carpet and pad, drywall, insulation, furniture, appliances and a lot of 
memories, we had a mostly empty house with some patio furniture and a bed.  A 
few weeks, two large commercial dehumidifiers, lots of fans, portable heaters 
and a good moisture meter and we had a dry house.  

 

We've installed new drywall, textured it, painted it and replaced all the door 
trims, baseboards, etc. that were removed during the drying process.  Waiting 
on flooring now.

 

Bottom line, if you think refurbishing/rebuilding a boat is work, try restoring 
a flooded house while you're still living in it.  I haven't seen Touche' in 
weeks.

 

--

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Stus-List Re: New Foresail.

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I have a boatload of Jenkins. Good man, good sailor. He makes most of the Log 
Canoe sails and those for the Star fleet in the Mid-Atlantic. Recommended – 
we’ll see how they work this year, first race today.

 

Gary

 

From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2021 8:00 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Subject: Stus-List Re: New Foresail.

 

I just ordered a new main from Jenkins Sails in Easton, MD. I chose to go with 
GPL Lite Skin fabric for its longevity, ability to hold its shape, ease of 
handling (much lighter than Dacron), and abrasion resistance. 

Great price; and Jenkins came highly recommended; he was the sailmaker at the 
naval academy for many years.

Tell him I told you to call.

Andy

Baltic 47 Masquerade




Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/


phone  +401 965 5260

 

 

On Sat, Jul 10, 2021 at 11:36 PM Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

This year I  ordered a ‘performance cruising’ radial cut #2 Genoa from rolly 
tasker sails in Thailand - second sail from them, no regrets at all.

 

Dave 

33-2

Sent from my iPhone





On Jul 10, 2021, at 10:22 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Im looking online for a new foresail for my 1980  34 C  New prices run from 
$2 to $4,000.  Where do I start?

 

Get Outlook for Android  

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

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Stus-List Re: UFO noise update

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The 115 I sailed on had that same arrangement.

Gary

30-1

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, June 1, 2021 5:07 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Re: UFO noise update

 

I have a short line with a clip on the back of the boom that I attach to the 
split backstay and pull the traveller to the opposite side until it is 
tensioned to keep the boom from swinging.  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT








On Jun 1, 2021, at 4:54 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Doug,

 

Thanks for the follow up info.  I enjoy reading how C mysteries are solved.

 

On Calypso, to prevent the boom from swinging like a late 40’s Bebop band I 
have pulled the traveler hard over to one side then used a light line to hold 
some tension from the other.

 

Also when at anchor with a side wind I used the foreguy attached to the 
spinnaker pole track and applied some pressure forward to prevent “UFO” type 
pumping of the mast.

 

Martin DeYoung

Calypso

1971 C 43

Seattle/Port Townsend’s yard

 

From: Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, June 1, 2021 10:55 AM
To: Stus-List  
Cc: Doug Mountjoy  
Subject: Stus-List UFO noise update

 

I just wanted to give an update on my UFO noise. It turned out to be my boom 
lift. I had it tight to slow down boom swing. Now the boom swings, but no 
UFO's. 

 

 

 

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

 

Doug Mountjoy

Port Orchard YC

Port Orchard,  WA

Rebecca Leah

1988 LF39 

 

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Line question

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

On my 30, they are both 3/8. Your style of traveler may be different. Stay Set 
or equivalent is OK,I got something similar for less $. Double braid works OK.I 
have a Garhauer vang, so don’t have a topping lift, but my spinnaker topping 
lift is 3/8.

 

Gary #593.

 

From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2021 3:25 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Stus-List Line question

 

This question shows a terrible lack of knowledge but here goes:  To replace 
some running rigging like the downhaul, topping lift and traveler line, is a 
double braid like Sta-Set the normal product to use?

I no longer race my own boat, so it's just what's needed for playing around.

If I measured correctly, the traveler would be quarter inch and the downhaul 
would be 3/8in.

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL

 

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Stus-List Re: backstay tension?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

On my 30-1, I use an old vang and a couple of old blocks – tie the blocks 
together with the sheaves on the split part of the wire (have to un-do the 
turnbuckles). Then hook the ‘vang’ to the joint between them and pull away! 
Goes from about 500# per leg to nearly 1000. On my boat all It does is firm up 
the forestay with my tree trunk mast.

 

Gary

 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2021 2:53 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Stus-List Re: backstay tension?

 

Backstay tension adjuster. If you are a cruiser!”set it and forget it”. If you 
are a handicap racer, “set it and forget it”. There are many more important 
things to pay attention to. Let that one be “you excuse to lose”. 

 

On Sun, Apr 18, 2021 at 9:20 PM Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Any advice/help appreciatedmy 32 has a split backstaySS rod down 
to the split where it is now wire coated to the turnbucklesno 
hydraulic gauge to measure pressureevery year when stepping the mast 
the backstay is attached and I tension the two turnbuckles before any 
after manual tension available...by looking at the mast, feeling the 
forestay, and the backstay,and I use my Loos RT 10 gaugeI know 
meant for the rod rig shrouds and not  to measure tension on each side 
of the plastic coated wire split backstay.   I estimate it to be 1,000 
to 1,100 lbs. the way I am doing it but who knows.

Is there a better way to determine what my at the slip backstay tension 
could be?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

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-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

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Stus-List Re: Heavy spinnaker sizing vs medium/light for 33-2

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Bruno, I tried what you are thinking about. It didn’t work. Dennis is right, 
you do not want three feet of halyard swinging your chute around – it does not 
get pretty. And, if you have the pole hoisted up in the air to get the chute 
hoisted all the way, you have a higher center of effort for that chute and it 
will move around, which is what you don’t want in heavy weather. The ultimate 
trick would be to have a separate halyard attached three feet down the mast 
just for that chute, but on our masthead boats, you will get all tangled up 
with the forestay. Sorry.

 

Gary – 30-1

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, April 6, 2021 3:56 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Heavy spinnaker sizing vs medium/light for 33-2

 

A heavy weather chute should have narrow shoulders.  It should be fully 
hoisted.  Failure to fully hoist in heavy weather will increase the potential 
for oscillation and loss of control.

 

While we're on heavy weather spin flying, on Touche', we never ever let the 
center seam cross to the weather side of the forestay.  That is, we prefer a 
slightly reaching trim as opposed to a dead downwind trim.  Trimming the 
chute's center seam to weather of the forestay increases the chances of 
oscillation and ultimately a death roll.  

 

I'd rather broach than do a death roll!

 

To answer the question, talk to your sailmaker.  This chute sounds a wee bit 
short to me.

 

  -- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Tue, Apr 6, 2021 at 11:22 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Bruno,

 

Sounds about right.  Just don't hoist the chute to the masthead.

 

Joel

 

On Tue, Apr 6, 2021 at 10:42 AM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Question for the spinnaker gurus of the group:

 

The light/medium sym spinfor my 33-2 has a luff/leech lenght of 44 ft and a 
foot of 23.3 ft. This is a sail designed for this boat

 

I'm looking at a used spin that seems to be a heavier cloth, that would be used 
as a S-3. The dimensions are Luff: 40.8 / foot: 21.5 

 

 




 

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Stus-List Re: G-Flex or Total Boat Fairing Compound?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Has anyone (else) tried EZTex from Pettit? I used it two years ago on my
'smile' and it held up OK. Simple to use, and can be sanded. I'm using it on
some home projects as well.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: John McCrea via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, March 9, 2021 11:14 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: John McCrea 
Subject: Stus-List Re: G-Flex or Total Boat Fairing Compound?

 

I used it last year for the same purpose. It is a great product and very
easy to work with and sand. I applied barrier coat over it.

 

John McCrea

Talisman

1979 36-1

Mystic, CT

 

From: David Risch via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Tuesday, March 9, 2021 10:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: David Risch mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com> >
Subject: Stus-List G-Flex or Total Boat Fairing Compound?

 

Keel stub joint fill for a fairly large fairing chunk that fell off.  I have
plenty of the Total Boat fairing compound and before I go spend $100 on
G-Flex.do I need it or is fairing compound OK?   I am thinking yes.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

David F. Risch

Managing Director

Great Benefits USA

401-419-4650 - Direct Line

 
 

 
 www.greatbenefitsusa.com

 

The content of this email is confidential and intended for the recipient
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Stus-List Re: Early C mk1

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I don't think they ever changed the strut layout on the 30-1. I have not
seen any numbers on mine and it is also angled as described. You won't get
any numbers on the shaft - my old one is sitting in my workshop and I think
it is original. Boat is #593 from the end of 1980.

Gary Nylander

 

From: Cleverboy via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, February 22, 2021 3:43 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Cleverboy 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Early C mk1

 

@Lewis Cooke, Thanks for looking. My hull is 305, from 1973. It would be a
number that might be on the prop strut. I'm assuming that your prop shaft is
also off center. I'm wondering if it also looks tilted to port. I know it's
off center to port but is the strut also tilted in that way?

 

Charles Ferrari

s/v Destrier

C 30 mk1 #305

Bronx, NY

  _  

From: Lewis Cooke via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Monday, February 22, 2021 7:24 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Lewis Cooke mailto:lewiscooke...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Early C mk1 

 

Hello Charles, 

 I have hull #45, Next time I go down to check on her I will look to see if
there are any markings on the shaft.

   

Lewis Cooke

S/V For Play

C 30-1 #45

Lorain, OH

 

On Feb 22, 2021 12:34 PM, "Cleverboy via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

While it's snowing, planning still goes on. I am trying to find a prop strut
for an early C 30 mk1 with the offset prop shaft. It appears that in
pulling the boat the rear strap overlapped the prop shaft putting a bend in
it so when starting it the following summer the oscillations almost
immediately snapped the strut. The boatyard denied all responsibility. I had
a propeller shop make me a new one out of stainless steel. Still, I would
like to have what the boat came with. Algonquin iron works may have made the
original but my strut did not have a casting number on it and they said I
absolutely needed a casting number as they have countless molds but not
stored by application. I tried boat salvage but no luck. This year, I'm
planning on completely unbolting the Atomic 4 and spending the time on
mounting the strut so the new shaft slides through the cutlass and stuffing
box. Hopefully, remounting the engine to mate. Any input or insight would be
appreciated. I do my own work and enjoy the time spent if it actually makes
for progress.

 

Charles Ferrari

Destrier

C 30 mk1

Bronx, NY


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PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks -
Stu

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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 34 re-power HP

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Get something with at least 25 hp and three cylinders – you and I both know 
about vibration. 

 

Gary 2QM15.

 

From: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2021 2:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph 
Subject: Stus-List C 34 re-power HP

 

Hello,

I have a 1978 C 34 with original Yanmar 2QM20.  Looking at Betas and 
wondering what horsepower to go with if I were to repower.  I've heard of 
people with 20, 25, 30HP in these boats.  We're in the Salish Sea off of 
Vancouver Island and often need to battle wind, waves and current.

Thanks

  Jeremy

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Stus-List Re: asail flown from spinnaker pole

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I raced on a C for a few years – it has an oversized spin pole and only 
has asyms. As Joel says, ease the sheet and do an outside of the forestay 
(inside of the pole tip) jibe and let the spin float in front of the boat when 
turning. We had a crew grab the new sheet and haul it back as fast as possible 
on the new side to get the spin to invert. If not, it would hang on the 
forestay or create an hour glass. Look for videos of J boats (I also raced on a 
J-80). Not much different than jibing a big genoa.

 

Gary  

30-1

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 7:53 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: asail flown from spinnaker pole

 

Do an outside gybe. Trim main, ease spin sheet a lot and let it float forward 
then bring it over and gybe the main 

 

Joel 

 

On Thu, Jan 28, 2021 at 7:42 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

No sock. 

  

The board really only wanted to use A3 on races of 25nm or more, where there 
would be minimal gybing and long legs. I got them to change it to any race so 
that when we're short-handed we're still able to jibe be competitive against 
full spinnakers 

  

Bob 

On 01/28/2021 5:58 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

  

  

I would just go as far as I could, pull the sissy sock down over it and just 
broad reach into the leeward mark. If there was too much distance, I would then 
re-set on the other side and pull the sock back up,  THAT is why I really want 
a top-down furler!

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Bob Mann via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 ] 
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2021 3:57 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Bob Mann
Subject: Stus-List asail flown from spinnaker pole

 

The Detroit area OD fleet of 35 mk I's is allowing asails (A3 specifically) 
this year for the first time ever, but they must be flown from the tack or 
spinnaker pole.  Does anyone know of any videos showing asails flown from a 
spinnaker pole?  I'd especially like to see one being gybed.  I've flown an A2 
from my tack before, and gybed it, so that's not an issue.  I think I have an 
idea of how it's done using a tack line and spinnaker pole, but I'd like to 
"see" it done as well.  FWIW we do dip-pole gybes. 

  

Bob Mann 

Mystic 

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costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

-- 

Joel 

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Stus-List Re: loose mast wedges

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Me neither- 30-1 #593

Gary

 

From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2021 7:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeff Nelson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: loose mast wedges

 

I've never had any issues with my wedges moving.  I make my own and give the 
heads a bit more
"lip".   Perhaps mine have less taper than pre-made ones, as that's the only 
thing I could think of
that would cause them to work upwards.  Gravity is supposed to be our friend.  

Wedges are pretty easy to make out of hardwood block, just a few minutes on the 
table saw
and you've got 30 or 40.

Cheers,
  Jeff Nelson
  Muir Caileag
  C 30 549

On 2021-01-21 12:09 a.m., Peter McMinn via CnC-List wrote:

Risking another topic in tandem with my windlass question. Don’t think they’re 
easily confused, but we can try;)

When we purchased Sirius in October, the wood wedges at the deck mast hole were 
all low and fairly tight. Now, after a few sails and seasonal changes (not sure 
that matters), they have all worked upward and a few are loose. Is it important 
to keep these tightly wedged, and if so, how do I keep them from drifting 
upward?

Without removing the boot, I’d like to try looping some light spectra around 
the top of the loose wedge, then a block at the bottom of the loop to pound it 
down. Feedback welcome.

Found this interesting article on the merits of wood wedging:

https://www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2016/2/29/wedging-the-mast-deck-partner





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Virus-free.  

 www.avast.com 

 

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Re: Stus-List Lithium Ion batteries

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

>From experience with model boats, there are many types of lithium batteries.
Not sure what kind you are talking about. I have used lithium polymer
batteries - similar to your cell phone. They are very fussy, need to be
charged on a special charger which will first discharge them and then
balance the cells when charging. These are the ones they warn you not to
charge indoors, put in a special bag, etc. When they discharge beyond a
certain point, they are toast..don't ask me how I know.  I have moved to
Lithium Ferrite - LiFe. Different chemistry, less fussy, still light and
powerful.

 

I have no idea what "lithium' type are being used in big boats. Maybe
someone who is smarter than I can enlighten me..

 

Gary

Model Skipjack on the Chesapeake

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Knecht via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 4, 2020 12:08 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lithium Ion batteries

 

I got a bad feeling about Lithium batteries last summer listening to an
emergency Coast Guard call on VHF from a boat whose lithium batteries were
on fire and they could not put out the fire. I thought I read that current
lithium batteries are now designed to reduce that hazard.  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT








On Sep 4, 2020, at 10:40 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

I've been following a few RV channels on YouTube and learning about lithium
batteries?   Some people are living "off-the-grid, living large with solar
panels and inverters.  Just learned that lithium batteries are 40 pounds
less weight per battery and last three to five times as many years, (3000 to
5000 cycles vs 1000 cycles for AGMs).  AGMs and Lead Acid shouldn't be
drained below 50% so you really need four 100ah AGM batteries to have 200ah
available.  Lithium can be drained down to nothing without harm, so two give
you 200ah.  If I was keeping my boat, or doing any long cruises, I'd
definitely look into those.  I got eleven years from my first AGM batteries
so Lithium should last me thirty years.  One Lithium battery presently costs
$950 for Battleborn vs $300 for a quality AGM and two lithium batteries
($1900 and 58# total weight) equal the amp hours of four AGMs ($1200 and
276# total weight).  Lithium is actually $500 cheaper if you keep the boat
long enough to have to replace the AGMs twice (cost $2400) and they are 218#
lighter.  That's a hell of a weight savings for racers. 

 

Prices keep falling for this new technology, so it's simply a matter of
time.  I think one Lithium might replace my two AGMs at some point in the
near future. 

 

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R 

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Re: Stus-List Freya Keel work 35-3

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I used some black stuff I got from McMaster-Carr (can’t remember, but they list 
the characteristics of each of their plastics). It wasn’t as hard or expensive 
as the red stuff which Randy used, but I put a thin piece in a big vise and 
couldn’t make a dent in it. So, it is now my crosswise mast support blocking. 
Filled the sump area with about a gallon of epoxy to keep the water out – it 
now has a slope to where the bilge pump is. And, with a little 2QM15, a crow 
bar at each end in turn allowed me to keep the engine in place while replacing 
motor mounts. Shims showed no movement so I bolted it up and it has been great 
for over a year.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dave S via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 9:55 AM
To: Josh Muckley 
Cc: Dave S ; C List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Freya Keel work 35-3

 

I should be clearer - By epoxy glass I mean a dense layup vs filled putty.  
That said I don’t know the deflection data For each material  etc etc etc  but 
I do know that my 33-2 wedges are not used on all the bolts and where not, the 
compression bears on the layup via a fender washer.  This suggests the layup 
adequately resists compression, and that the AL wedges are there as wedges only 
to address the slope of the bilge.

Filled putty?  Agree completely, it’s the wrong stuff. 

 

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone





On Aug 27, 2020, at 9:03 PM, Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> > wrote:



Alan, 

 

Epoxy and glass is a bit different than G10 (which is technically fiberglass 
and epoxy.)  The rated compression and deflection strength are competitive with 
any other material.  Especially when you get to the 1/2 inch thickness.

 

No?

Checked 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

On Thu, Aug 27, 2020, 18:35 ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Don't use epoxy/glass to replace the wedges. There's tremendous pressure on 
them when the keep bolts are tightened, and they won't hold up. Have them made 
out of stainless.

 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

 

 

On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 2:31 PM Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Plenty of detail on keel work here- mine and others.  

 

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/c-33-mk-ii-keel-and-mast-step-work.html?m=1 

 

 

I think any sense epoxy/glass would be fine to replace the wedges.  

 

You can also use ‘tack tape’ reversed to protect the bolts.  One advantage of 
this vs  wax is you can build layers for clearance.  

 

Good luck with the project!

 

Dave 

33-2 (same dna as the 35-3)

Sent from my iPhone





On Aug 27, 2020, at 2:10 PM, David Swensen mailto:ka123dswense...@gmail.com> > wrote:



 

 

Fellow listers,

I have moved Freya to my backyard and started work on the keel hull joint. She 
has on the hard for about 4 weeks. I opened up thekeel hull joint and have 
raised the hull a few inches.   The forward bolt is still draining ( and it 
smells?). 

The most aft bolt is the one that was leaking enough to set off my bilge pump 
every 4 minutes. The inside of the hull was compressed under the washers on 
this bolt. I think this will need to be ground out and filled

I have added a link to some pictures.

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/uoZHWJbR2jH8Wb6F6 



 

My questions:

 

I cannot lift the hull entirely off of the keel. Any suggestions on how to 
repair the compressed area without epoxy bonding to the  bolt?  I was planning 
on a 1/2 inch G10 backing plate before putting  the washers on.

 

It looks like I will need to excavate the space under the mast step. It feels 
and sounds solid, but apparently there is water inside, because it is still 
draining.  What is the best material to fill this space? 

 

Two of the middle bolts had aluminum wedges under the washers because of the 
angle of the keel sump. One was corroded to dust. There was not much left of 
the other. Can I use G10 to replace these, or should I have them fabricated 
from stainless steel?.

 

One of the pictures shows the placement of the jackstands. I am open to input 
on their placement. Is it sufficient to hold the hull for an extended time?

 

Thanks for any input. 

 

David Swensen

Freya   35 MK 3

On the Hard in Beverly, MA

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Re: Stus-List Northeast 39

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

One of the guys who used to co-own a boat yard here in St. Michaels had a
deep draft ex-racing boat and converted it for cruising. Chopped the extra
keel off with a chain saw, and had Mars Metal take the lead and mold a wing
keel (in halves) and bolted it on, faired it in and used it for a number of
years. It sold.

Gary

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2020 2:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Northeast 39

Be cool if the keel was the same as a 40 or 41 at the top, just stick a K/CB
keel on and save the deep keel for racing ;)

Joe

Coquina


On 8/18/2020 2:26 PM, Rob Ball via CnC-List wrote:
> The project was a limited run boat from the Custom Shop - built by
Bruckmann.  Not intended as a comfy cruising boat obviously . . . The market
was intended for Long Island Sound and try to come up with something to
appeal to C 40 owners looking for something uptick . . . .
> Clearly much more carefully built, and one could add skylights now, but to
get reasonable draft obviously a keel job is in order  . . . .
> But it's always a shame to remove the engine from a Ferrari and put in a
Chevy replacement . . .
>
> Rob Ball
> C 34 Escapade
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

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Re: Stus-List C 33 MK II backstay

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I recycled a Garhauer vang and a couple of wire/rope blocks into a split
backstay adjuster. Essentially no cost as they were take-offs from upgrades.
Been on there for about 20 years.

 

Gary

30-1 #593 which I presume came with the split backstay, but no adjuster.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Knecht via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2020 11:04 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 33 MK II backstay

 

There is very little strain on that tackle with the split backstay and it
requires little effort to adjust.  I have a much lighter duty (much less
expensive) double blocks and line on mine and it works fine.  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT








On Aug 17, 2020, at 10:34 AM, Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Here's the backstay tensioner tackle:

https://telamontechnologies.com/epilogue/images/backstayTensioner.jpg


Adrian Humphreys
Epilogue, Rockport ME
C 33-2 
adri...@telamontech.com  



 

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Re: Stus-List 1979 C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Nope, the halyards are run to blocks on the ring around the base of the mast, 
then to the winches (originally) on the dorade boxes. And the 30-1 has the 
tangs.

Gary 30-1 #593

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2020 9:23 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1979 C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?

 

Hi Glen

 

I believe on C 30-1 the halyards are run at the mast not at the cockpit in 
factory configuration.  Therefore no pulling upward on deck by halyard 
tensioning at mast collar

 

Just my guess for whatever that is worth

 

Mike Hoyt

 

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Glen Eddie via CnC-List
Sent: August 12, 2020 9:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Glen Eddie mailto:ged...@torkinmanes.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1979 C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?

 

I don’t have any hangers on my C 35 Mk I.  Is there a reason why?  Thanks in 
advance.  

 



Glen Eddie


Tel:  416-777-5357


Fax:  1-888-812-2557


Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank 
you.

 

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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I am going to be a bit contrary in my reply. I applaud your interest in
converting to electricity (as I have had that thought process), but after
just replacing the cylinder head on my two cylinder Yanmar, you may be
attempting a larger job than necessary.

 

A diesel is a simple engine. It is like an old car engine. Assuming it turns
over (which apparently it does as it overheats) what may be wrong is similar
to what I just experienced. Mine was overheating to the point where it would
not run. Repair, replace, new or used? Researching the options, I decided
that I would pull the head off and take a look.  I have some engine building
experience, but on Volkswagen and Porsche engines. A VW engine is also
simple as is a Porsche four cylinder. I figured a simple overhead valve
diesel would not be a killer project and it was not. Once the head is off
(which was not easy because of 40 years of rusty fasteners), the only thing
needed to be done to the block was to make sure the water passages were
clear. That was not easy because the engine was still in the boat and the
working area was a hassle. My old knees didn't like me. I had to buy a new
cylinder head as mine was cracked (about a quarter inch between the exhaust
valve and the injector) where it would not be easy to weld. The new cylinder
head was not cheap but came complete with the valves installed, so it was
rather simple to mount it. Make sure you have the valves timed with the
pistons and adjusted, and it ran! Gat a new set of hoses, as the old ones
never seem to go on as easy as they come off. And, all the auxiliary stuff
just bolts back on. I didn't have to realign anything, or build new mounts,
design anything or figure out the weights or any of that. And the cost was
less than half of another old 'take out' with questionable history and 1/10
or less than conversion to a new diesel (counting things like exhaust
system, prop, shaft, wiring, etc.)..

 

Just another viewpoint. 

 

Gary Nylander, 30-1, 2QM15

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Fitteral
Mindspring via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 4:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   
Cc: Fitteral Mindspring fitte...@mindspring.com
  subject: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to
Electric?

 

Hello all,  

 

I am on the precipice of being C owner and already have a question
(actually several).  

 

I am purchasing a 1981 C 36 which has a sound hull, deck, sails but has
the original Yanmar 3GM30 which is overheating and, at a very minimum, needs
a new head gasket.  Additionally the transmission is a little suspect so I
am pursuing my options, one of which is an electric repower/conversion. The
quiet, green, instant start and low/no maintenance aspects are all enticing
to me.  Additionally, the thought of investing a chunk of change on a
rebuild of a 40 yr old engine and transmission isn't terribly appealing to
me.  Another aspect of this is, that while I know a bit about engines, don't
have any experience working with marine diesels.  While I am always
interested in learning, I feel that marine diesels is perhaps a learning
rabbit-hole I could avoid.  

 

I currently have a smaller (Chrysler 22') boat and am purchasing this boat
with the anticipation to take longer day sails, weekend cruises and an
occasional longer close-ish to shore trip (no plans for open ocean passages
at this time).  I do intend to stay under sail whenever possible.  

 

I currently have a slip so will have access to shore power when at home,
however this may not always be the case on longer trips.  I am exploring
solar, regen & a portable supplemental generator for re-charging while
underway.

  

The C 36 currently has navigation, radar, miscellaneous electronics which
we need powered.  No A/C or heat on the boat nor anticipation of installing
them.  There is a hot water heater which is currently heated by the diesel
engine so would need to convert that to keep the Admiral happy.  

 

Looking to see if anyone out there has considered and/or attempted this
conversion and would like to get your thoughts and experiences.   One of the
primary questions (beyond whether I should attempt it at all) is whether to
go with a SailDrive or simply drive the existing shaft/prop with the
electric.  

 

Also, if anyone recommendations for installers in the CT/NY area.  The boat
is in CT and I am based in NY.  I could potentially do it myself since my
season is likely shot but wanted to get some configurations/estimates from
installers from which I could potentially use to derive configuration ideas.


 

Apologies for the long-winded, multi-part, question but it's a relatively
big decision.  

 

Thank you in advance,

Chandler Rohal

TBD

C 36

Rockaway Park, NY

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Re: Stus-List Isaias

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

On the other side of the Bay from Reedville (and just South of Joe), St. 
Michaels fared rather well. The eye went right over us and eight inches of rain 
flooded the boat yard and low lying places, and the wind blew big time. 
Branches down, etc. But it came near low tide which helped a bunch. Moved 
Penniless over to the sheltered side of the boat yard yesterday, everything 
held and now I can move her back. We lucked out.

 

Gary

30-1 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 4, 2020 2:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Isaias

 

Reporting in from Reedville.

 

We had a series of tornados land all around. Pavilion next to my powerboat 
shattered the uprights as the metal roof peeled off. Owner’s son had a tree 
limb crush the bed of his pickup while was driving. All of this about 1/4 mile 
from my boat shed and Ronin. 

 

 My friend who is keeping is ‘79 Tartan 37 at my dock lost 14 trees in his yard 
in Fleeton. Twisted off halfway up. Nearby town center struck and trashed. No 
power here. 

 

“Ronin” rode it out no problem. Shed didn’t take off for Kansas.

 

Working a cold Stone IPA... ;-)

 

Regards,

Dave

Ronin - 1982 C 37

Sent from my iPhone





On Aug 4, 2020, at 10:54 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

How can I? I thought the list would not send photos.

Joe

On 8/4/2020 10:42 AM, Richard Bush wrote:





Joe, send photos if you can!

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River Mile 584;

 

 

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-

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Re: Stus-List Engine starting issue

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Amen. After some engine work, I was able to start it a number times, then 
nothing. I spent many hours chasing the wires. Everything connected, yes. 12 v 
where needed, yes. Finally realized that even though I had connectivity, there 
was just not enough current. Ran a separate wire from the terminal on the 
starter (direct cable from battery) to the ignition switch. Aha! Running again. 
40 year old wire and connections….

 

Gary

30-1

St. Michaels MD

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2020 11:36 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine starting issue

 

Yanmar?  Don't forget to service the wiring harness connection near the engine, 
coat contacts with TefGel and then plug and unplug it several times.  
Generously wrap electrical tape around it when finished.

  -- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 9:44 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Twice in the last week, I have noticed an issue that might be a prelude to a 
greater problem. Normally, I start the engine by turning on the key, hitting 
the glow plug button for 30 seconds and then hitting the start button.   Never 
been a problem there.  Both times that this has happened, the engine was 
already warm and I just turned the key on, hit the start button and got no 
response.  Tried again a few seconds later and it started up fine both times.  
Is it possible that something needs a few seconds to power up after turning the 
key on (solenoid?)?  I don’t remember this being an issue in the past, but it 
is not often I start the engine by just turning the key and pushing start.  My 
start battery is a 10 year old AGM and has had no trouble cranking the engine 
in general, even after warming the glow plugs for 45 seconds. Thanks- Dave

 

David Knecht

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

 




 

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Re: Stus-List Sailing with a spin thru the lee of a bigger boat

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

9.9 meters or 32 feet. As  someone said, the first of the 99’s was shipped out 
to the Annapolis show with a cobbled up part of an interior (from a 110?) and 
Tim Jackett came with it to show it off. They assembled a crack crew and showed 
if off quite well (and it got a lousy PHRF rating that nobody else could quite 
live up to). That boat was Rabbit. Not the best marketing practice if you want 
to sell boat to mortal people. 

 

Gary

30-1 #593

St. Michaels MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joel Delamirande 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2020 6:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Delamirande 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing with a spin thru the lee of a bigger boat

 

Is 99 mean 99 feet boat

 

On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 1:17 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I think Hull #1 had been modified to do that at some point.  The regular C 99 
comes with symmetric 200% spinnaker and J+1 pole.  A number have since been 
modified to add a small fixed sprit which has total sprit length no longer than 
Spinnaker pole length.  The four racing here (Halifax) do not use the 
sprit/asym a lot.

 

The 99 is a very nice boat

 

Mike Hoyt
Persistence

Halifax

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: July 21, 2020 2:13 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing with a spin thru the lee of a bigger boat

 

Hi Chuck- I looked at a C 99 when I was buying my boat and it had an integral 
extending pole for an A sail.  I presumed that was standard on the 99, but the 
one in your video doesn’t have one.  Did some have them or was the one I looked 
at modified?  Dave

 

Dr. David Knecht

Professor, Department of Molecular and Cell Biology 

University of Connecticut 

91 N. Eagleville Rd 
 .

U-3125

Storrs, CT 06269-3125

 

 

 

On Jul 21, 2020, at 12:48 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Hi Don, 

I wasn't there, but a crewman aboard the 99 told me the owner has a long 
rivalry with the J-109 which was flying an assymetric on a sprit, also.  He 
told me the 99 is for sale because the owner bought a J-109 cause it's faster 
upwind and points higher.   I find the video quite exciting with so many 
different boats so close together.  The essence of racing. 

 

Chuck   

On 07/21/2020 12:27 PM Donald Kern via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

 

 

Chuck, 
Good demonstration of what happens when you decide to sail a smaller boat thru 
the lee of a bigger boat.  Especially dead downwind with a A-chute and the 
bigger  has a symmetric chute.   Unless the A-chute was in restricted water or 
closing the mark they should have been maxing their VMG by tacking downwind.  
Brings back memories of those blue and gold chutes - use to skipper the wood 
and first glass NA 44 yawls. Preferred the wood, they were faster; had no 
engines, less weight and drag.  Bristol YC and Herreshoff Marine Museum sponsor 
the boat school's 44s each June for the last 5yrs (missed this year of Offshore 
Training because of CORVID 19). 

Beat Army !! 
  
Don Kern 
Fireball C Mk2 
Bristol, RI 

On 7/21/2020 10:55 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote: 

I focus on the sailing ability in selecting a boat.  If you sail in a steady 
high winds, go big.  But if you are more like the rest of us and have low wind 
predominantly, I would steer toward the smallest, lightest model C that still 
has just enough interior to accommodate my family.  Smaller, lighter, hulls 
move first as the wind builds from a calm while heavier boats struggle until 
the wind gets up over 10 knots.  It takes much less wind to move a 10,000# boat 
than a 20,000# one.  Even less to move a 5000# boat like a 27 footer which has 
standing headroom and can be trailered home for the winter.  They will all sail 
to hullspeed once the wind reaches about 12 knots and then the longer waterline 
boat has a speed advantage, but under 10 knots which is predominantly what we 
sail in, the lighter boats win and are easier to singlehand and dock, etc.  
Check out this video of a C 99, a 32 footer catching a J109 and two Navy 44 
footers in a race. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBKifuS60Go 

 

I also prefer the C 34/36 model as I own the racing version w vee berths 
(removable for racing) and settee berths, pilot beths, a full width aft berth 
and two pipe berths.  We rate faster than the 40 and the bigger sister, the 
37/40 rates faster still, though I think the 34/36 was an improvement over it.  

Check out the brochures on Stu's cncphotoalbum.com   

  

 

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R Pasadena, Md 

 

   

On 07/21/2020 9:55 AM Nathan Post via CnC-List   
 wrote: 

 

 

Welcome 

Re: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

In my case there was a crack in the cylinder head. You don’t want to go there.

Gary 30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Doug Mountjoy via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2020 2:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Mountjoy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35

 

Black smoke from a diesel is usually an indication the engine is loaded up. ie. 
Pulling hard. It could also mean your injectors and or injection pump need 
overhaul. 

 

 

 

Doug Mountjoy

sv Rebecca Leah 

C Landfall 39

Port Orchard yacht club

 

 Original message 

From: Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 6/22/20 11:42 (GMT-08:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Peter Cowenhoven mailto:pscowenho...@yahoo.com> > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35 

 

Quick question and I'll put it out to the list too.  I've got a fair amount of 
black smoke that dirties the stern and is pretty visable while motoring.  

 

Any thoughts on where to start?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 

 

 

On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 2:40 PM, Peter Cowenhoven

mailto:pscowenho...@yahoo.com> > wrote:

Really, wierd and that was consistently slower?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 

 

 

On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 2:32 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List

mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

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Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

FWC is fresh water cooled, RWC is raw water cooled. If you have a 2QM like I 
do, it is Raw Water Cooled – water from the lake/bay/ocean is pumped through 
the engine for cooling and merged with the exhaust and expelled.

 

Gary 30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2020 2:52 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

 

Pardon my ignorance, but what is FWC/RWC?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL

On Friday, June 12, 2020, 01:11:53 PM CDT, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

 

 

I used to sail on a 34 that had the 2 cylinder Yanmar. That thing would shake 
the entire boat. Some had Atomic 4s I think, which are much smoother, but any 
original A4 that is not FWC is living on borrowed time at this point. Actually 
ANY RWC engine from the 80s not in a fresh water lake is.

 

Joe

 

-Original Message-

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 ] On Behalf Of John and Maryann Read via 
CnC-List

Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 1:41 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  

Cc: John and Maryann Read mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com> 
>

Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

 

Owned our 82 for 21 seasons.  Absolutely love it.  Original Yanmar 3GM which is 
just the right power (do not recommend a smaller engine)  No major design or 
build issues just issues of being such a tender age :-)  Of course get a 
competent survey of hull rig and all systems.  Our main hatch cover had 
delamination of core as screws around the edge went through the balsa core, 
they leaked and core rotted.  Removed cover, installed solid glass around edges 
for screws, new balsa and glass, reinstalled.  Filled 2 screw holes in deck 
with epoxy reassembled and no more leaks :-)

Sails like a dream.  Very sensitive to trim and weight distribution.  Races 
with the best of them need a crew of 6 or 7.  Easily cruises for 4.  2 can 
easily sail her.  Is designed for light airs but can handle high winds and seas 
well.  The designer Rob Ball has one - need I say more?  Contact off list if 
need anything else.

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List polishing

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Another useful coating option is Poli-Glow. But… you must get rid of all the 
old chalked on oxidation before using, or you will encapsulate the oxidation 
under many coats of the Glow. There is Poli-Prep which does a pretty good job 
on the oxidation, and PoliOx which is even stronger. Poli-Glow is an acrylic 
coating – looks like crap after the first coat, but dries immediately and then 
you add coats as fast as you (and a helper) can walk around the boat – after 7 
or 8 coats it really looks good and lasts all year, another coat or two the 
following year keeps it up. 

 

Gary

30-1 #593

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of detroito91 via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 7, 2020 9:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: detroito91 
Subject: Re: Stus-List polishing

 

Take a look at another product...

Nu-glass.   Wipe the cleaner on then wipe the liquid on. Easy, simple and no 
rubbing/buffing.

If I remember,  $59.00 a kit and I used 2 kits for my 38 with some left over. 
No waxing for a year.

Jim Schwartz 

38 landfall 

SEA YA !

Washington nc 

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 

 Original message 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 6/7/20 5:37 AM (GMT-05:00) 

To: C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List polishing 

 

Looks normal to me.  The chalk gives it a whiter haze look.  Remove that and 
the true color comes out.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

On Sat, Jun 6, 2020, 22:52 General Gao via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi everyone,

 

The hull of my boat has not been polished/waxed for a few seasons (I don't 
believe the previous owner did anything in recent years) so the white hull is a 
bit oxidized and dull. Today my son helped me to polish the hull. We used the 
Meguair Wax #50, to my surprise, where it was polished (a small area) turned 
out to be a bit more yellowish than white. Is this expected? (I hope the 
picture is clear enough).

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BAiDMWmeSLHU3r-Gsh-N-f3B_iR4FU3J/view?usp=sharing

 

Or is it just I am not doing this correctly?

 

Thank you,

 

Bo

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Shaft coupler removal

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I cut mine off as well. A pinhole leak in one of the water hoses a few years
ago melted everything into one solid rusty mess. New shaft, half the
coupler, and put in a new cutless bearing just for fun. The 2018 project.
Gary
1980 30-1 #593

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of rick bushie via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 8:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: rick bushie 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shaft coupler removal

Josh, I had to cut mine off. Luckily, a ready replacement was available from
Moyer Marine for my A4.

Rick Bushie
Anchovy
1971 30-1

Sent from my iPhone


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Re: Stus-List C 32 - toerail bolts

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

As one who has replaced many of these bolts, I checked today just to make sure. 
The ones I have are 5/16 x 2 inch. Just having used that same diameter on my 
exhaust manifold, I think you could substitute an 8mm bolt. My toe rail bolts 
are a mix of flat head and oval head Philips style. I replaced a toe rail and 
used the good butyl – so far no leaks after a couple of seasons. By the way, 
old butyl comes off really easy with paint thinner.

 

Good luck.

 

Gary

30-1

St. Michaels Maryland

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Adam Johnson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2020 4:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Adam Johnson 
Subject: Stus-List C 32 - toerail bolts

 

Hello all, 

 

I am currently stuck in lock down a long way from where my new to me C 32 is 
moored hence seeking information to plan out some spring jobs when I can 
finally get back. Leaking toe rail bolts from midships to stern on both sides, 
many showing heavy corrosion. Will attempt tightening however some really need 
to be replaced. Anyone know the type of bolt used i.e. size, min length etc and 
good online source to order from? Assume I'm going to need 30-40 of them. 

 

Secondly - assuming i dont lift the rail, any view on best sealant to use on 
new bolts going in or for those needing some new sealant? I have sourced some 
butyl tape from maine sail in the US plus have access to sika products here.

 

Thanks!

 

Adam Johnson

'84 C 32 

Melbourne, Australia

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Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My 38 year old aluminum tank had pinholes in the bottom where it sat on a 
plywood platform. Replaced with plastic.

Gary 30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of ssjohnson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 12:23 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Cc: ssjohnson 
Subject: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

 

Allwhen tensioning the steering cable.   It looks like the tank is sitting 
in a pool of dieselI an bummed.   It is the original aluminum tank, but the 
boat has only been in fresh water - Lake Michigan - so I had though I was safe 
from corrosion.  Access to the tank is very limitedthe engine and a 
retaining stringer would probably need to be cut outat least that is what 
Wally on Stella Blue did.  I cannot think of other optionsand am open to 
ideas/suggestions.  Cannot launch it as is...

Spencer Johnson 

84 LF38 "Alegria" #165

Waukegan, IL / Racine, WI

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Re: Stus-List Keel movement in C 24

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I was under the impression that the bolts on my 30-1 are to be torqued to over 
300 pounds. Am I mistaken?

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Chris Bennett via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 2:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Bennett 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel movement in C 24

 

Russ - thanks for the west coast humour - yes we are lucky here to have our 
boats in the water year round - though it does have its downsides too in that 
the hulls never dry out and growth on the bottom continues even in the winter. 

 

The torques I applied to the 3/4 inch bolts were around 140 foot pounds. After 
consulting some torque figures on this website, I looked up a value for 3/4 
inch stainless bolts on a fastener website that had been recommended to me. I 
increased that value by about 10% to allow for the extra weight of the keel. 
The 4th bolt under the mast step is too tight and buried to get a torque wrench 
on so I tightened it with a beefy 1/2 inch socket wrench as far as possible to 
a guesstimated 40-50 foot pounds. Incidentally, 140 foot pounds was about as 
much as I could easily put on the torque wrench without adding leverage of an 
extension handle or torque converter.

 

Chris

 

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Re: Stus-List Keel movement in C 24

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

+1 with Joe on the repair possibility. The pictures show that many of the early 
C’s used the same type of construction. The 30’s have three of those 
‘bundles’ of fibers laid across the keel sump with some plywood stringers in 
between. These, in turn, have a big oak block on top with a box for the mast. 
“Keel’ stepped, so they say, but really ‘plywood’ stepped. My plywood was 
rotted from the bottom, as they didn’t completely cover it in glass. After a 
couple of quickie repairs, I finally bit the bullet, cut all that crap out, and 
threw about a gallon of epoxy in there, with new crossmembers made from some 
really hard stuff I got from McMasters-Carr. Now I don’t have any low spots 
where water can gather – all water flows to the low spot where the bilge pump 
is mounted. It was a messy and dusty job, and my knees are still mad at me 
after a couple years, but solid. There are some pix on Stu’s site which show 
the mast step repair on a 30, but you can get a good idea of what you are in 
for. Not rocket science, but just grubby work.

 

Gary

1980 30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 10:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel movement in C 24

 

Wow – sorry to hear about this :(

First off, do NOT troubleshoot this in the water unless prepared to swim home!

I think you can do the “survey” yourself, just have the boat in the slings and 
grab the keel. It sounded like a pretty obvious issue. Assuming you find this 
is actually a problem, there is a decision to make. It will be cheaper to buy 
another boat than pay to have this fixed. As a DIY project, the cost is not 
huge. I would guess $500 or less in epoxy, wood, glass, and miscellaneous 
items. The PITA factor will be high, a lot of cutting, grinding, and sanding 
lying on your belly will be involved. Only you know how badly you want the boat 
fixed.

Some of us have done something similar, I did my mast step back in 1994 or so.

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com  

 

 

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Re: Stus-List A Different CNC inquiry

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

It looks like your machine is a 2D machine. If so, you may be able to use 
Lightburn software, which we are using on our Laser cutter. We have a large 
flatbed laser cutter which has a Ruida controller but Lightburn says it can 
handle other types of controllers as well.

 

Gary Nylander

CBMM Model Guild

St. Michaels MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Stu via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 9:38 AM
To: C Email List 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List A Different CNC inquiry

 

This is not about C but CNC (Computer Numerical Control).  I would like to 
touch bases with any of our listers who have and use a desktop style CNC 
machine and find out what design software they are using.

 

If you don’t know what I am talking about – here is one for you to look at:

 



 

Stu -- 

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Re: Stus-List Cruising Love

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The owner of a classic sailboat here in St. Michaels met her now husband on a 
sailing romance web site. They are now taking their extended cruise around the 
world on his Amel. 

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Randy Stafford via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 9, 2020 5:42 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cruising Love

 

Gotta confess, I had a hearty laugh over that too.  Thanks Matt :D

 

One anecdote for Will.  Colorado Sail & Yacht Club has a Meetup group 
(meetup.com  ) as a recruiting tool.  It’s been surprisingly 
popular, with 350 members.  We invite them to social events, cruising events, 
practice races, etc. (with RSVP limits of course).  Anyway, this winter I 
SurveyMonkey’d the members about their sailing interests.  One of my survey 
questions was “why did you join this Meetup group?” with answer choices of “it 
will look cool on my Meetup profile” and “I’ll find a romantic relationship” 
along with more serious choices of course.  Anyway it turned out about 8% of 
respondents ticked the “looking for love” box.  Moral of the story, maybe you 
can find sailing Meetup groups in your location(s) and meet eligible candidates 
that way.

 

Cheers,

Randy





On Apr 9, 2020, at 2:22 PM, Matt Wolford via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

If you're looking for love on this list, I'm afraid you'll be single-handling 
more than your boat.

Sorry, Stu, I couldn't resist.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Will Gerstmyer via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2020 3:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Will Gerstmyer mailto:wgerstm...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Cruising Love

This may be the weirdest posting but i like this forum and it is important to 
me so I’ll risk asking. 
I am seeking a 50-60-ish woman who wants to cruise the world with me, a 
live-aboard. Oh, and we need to fall in love, too. 
I needn’t be the captain. 
My profile “Bohemon” can be found on freebie site OKCupid or simply write/call 
me. 
Yes I can single-hand my boat but that isn’t the dream. 

Will Gerstmyer 
1986 C 41 
Portland ME (at present)
978-609-1331
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 27

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My 1980 pedestal has the sideward handles, the shift one is just like the
throttle, except facing the other way. I think you could fabricate one out
of aluminum.

Gary

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Paul Hood via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 8, 2020 12:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Hood 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 27

Not those Joel.  Of course the only original one I have is the throttle,
starboard side.  Don't know what the gear shift is suppose to look like.  It
appears the handle you show rotates back and forward.  On mine, it actually
slides up/down in a slot, same action as the throttle.  Right now I have a
1/2" bolt, tapered the threads slightly and slid it in the hole, cut the
head off the bolt and slid the bilge handle over the bolt for leverage.  It
was meant to be temporary...been a few year now.  BTW, the engine is atomic
4 with reduction drive.   I'll get better pictures this weekend.

Paul Hood
'81 C
Georgian Bay

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2020 11:42:49 -0400
From: Joel Aronson 
To: cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal gear shift handle
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

This?   http://www.marinepartdepot.com/stthha.html

On Wed, Apr 8, 2020 at 12:30 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Like Josh says, your pedestal appears to be an Edson and FWIW, I 
> replaced my OEM plastic levers with Stainless versions and though a 
> little costly, much more reliable for the last 18 years.  Read the 
> Edson manual and if you don't know how old the chain and cables are, 
> you may want to replace those too.  IIRR, the levers cost about $50 
> each and the chain/cable kit costs over $400.
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena, Md
>
> On April 8, 2020 at 12:04 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> A picture of the pedestal from behind the wheel would be helpful but 
> from the angle you provided it sorta appears to be an Edson.  If so 
> try the link below for replacement engine controls.
>
>
> https://edsonmarine.com/products/pedestals-cockpit-accessories/engine-
> controls-accessories/
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 23:20 Paul Hood via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> I have not had a proper handle for my gear shift since the PO and I 
> would love to fix that but can't find one.  Not even sure what the 
> original looks
> like.I have a lock and small throttle on the starboard side and the
> gear
> shift on the port side.  I have links to my current pedestal although 
> not great.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1_jr6sFse0ef4jYj9FojBck3blxWEnO
> Q8?usp
> =sharing
>  OQ8?usp=sharing>
>
>
> Paul Hood
> '81 C
> Georgian Bay
>
>
>
>



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Re: Stus-List Marinas in Md, Covid-19

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Same adjustment on the Eastern Shore – I just cannot get close to the ‘real’ 
workers.

Gary

St. Michaels

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2020 12:15 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Marinas in Md, Covid-19

 

Hey, 

Good news!  After seeing the earlier email from Bill Coleman, I called Bert 
Jabin's boatyard and they told me their yard is open to owners to work on their 
boats, "Come on down, just use social distancing and common sense." 

 

I then called my yard in Pasadena and shared that info.  Bert Jabin's is 
probably the biggest yard in the area with the most expensive boats.  My marina 
guy said he knew about it, though I doubt it, and said they were discussing the 
change and would notify me after their meeting.  I expect they will free up the 
restriction and though I missed three really good days for epoxy work, I'll be 
happy to get back to finishing my projects. 

 

Chuck S 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Covid 19 update MD & USVI

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I live a block away from my boat. I walk there to work on the boat and have
no interaction with anyone unless I want something they have in stock - I
agree it does not make sense. It is obvious the lawmakers have no concept of
a working boat yard or marina is about.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2020 10:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Covid 19 update MD & USVI

 

How the hell is THAT going to work? My marina has about 20 live-aboards. I
don't even see the point, when I am on the boat I am remotely close to any
other person. I get out of the car and go directly to my boat.

 

 

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Gary Nylander via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2020 9:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Gary Nylander mailto:gnylan...@atlanticbb.net> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Covid 19 update MD & USVI

 

That may be a state instruction. Talbot County is saying the same thing. 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Neil Andersen via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2020 9:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Neil Andersen mailto:neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Covid 19 update MD & USVI

 

All the marinas in Kent County Maryland (Rock Hall, Tolchester, Worton
Creek, etc.) are closed for boat owners.  The county instruction allow them
to staff with their own people if the maintain "social distancing".  So in
at least some cases you can't work on your own boat but can pay them to do
work.

 

USVI is closed to visitors too. 

 

Neil

1982 C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

Neil Andersen

20691 Jamieson Rd

Rock Hall, MD 21661

484-354-8800

 

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Re: Stus-List Covid 19 update MD & USVI

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

That may be a state instruction. Talbot County is saying the same thing. 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Neil Andersen
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2020 9:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Neil Andersen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Covid 19 update MD & USVI

 

All the marinas in Kent County Maryland (Rock Hall, Tolchester, Worton
Creek, etc.) are closed for boat owners.  The county instruction allow them
to staff with their own people if the maintain "social distancing".  So in
at least some cases you can't work on your own boat but can pay them to do
work.

 

USVI is closed to visitors too. 

 

Neil

1982 C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

Neil Andersen

20691 Jamieson Rd

Rock Hall, MD 21661

484-354-8800

 

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Re: Stus-List Tank tank

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I am not sure you have a problem. My tank was aluminum and it was sitting on
a flat plywood shelf. No rubber or other barrier between the shelf and the
tank. As mine was nearly 40 years old, I would surmise your stainless one
would outlast that easily.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Matt Wolford via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2020 9:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wolf...@erie.net
Subject: Stus-List Tank tank

 

Listers:

 

All this tank talk provides an opportunity to ask a question.  I currently
have my stainless steel, cylindrical 20-gallon tank sitting on the deck
(under cover) while I repair wet core underneath its normal location.  There
does not appear to be anything wrong with the tank, so my evil plan is to
simply clean it out and put it back when the core repair is finished.
Should I be thinking about replacing it with a plastic tank?  If so, what's
the benefit of plastic tanks over stainless tanks, and who makes good
plastic tanks for this purpose?

 

Thanks as always.

 

Matt Wolford

C 42 Custom

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Gary Nylander via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2020 8:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Gary Nylander mailto:gnylan...@atlanticbb.net> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tracker app

 

All this tank talk makes me feel good, since my 40 year old aluminum tank
started oozing fuel a couple years ago - I replaced it with a plastic tank.
I can now just look at the tank and see the fuel level. Ducked that problem
- and the gauge on the new tank isn't that accurate.

 

Gary Nylander, 30-1

 

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Re: Stus-List Fuel tracker app

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

All this tank talk makes me feel good, since my 40 year old aluminum tank
started oozing fuel a couple years ago - I replaced it with a plastic tank.
I can now just look at the tank and see the fuel level. Ducked that problem
- and the gauge on the new tank isn't that accurate.

 

Gary Nylander, 30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Risch via
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 10:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Risch 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tracker app

 

So how do folks "fill" condistently without vent spill.  One of those vent
"catchers"  or some other arrangement?

Thanks. 

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you. 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of Andrew Burton via
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 6:28:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Andrew Burton mailto:a.burton.sai...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tracker app 

 

Tracking your fuel consumption and fuel available is really a fairly
important safety measure. I filled my tank and ran my boats for 12 hours at
cruising speed and then filled up again. It was pretty easy to figure fuel
consumption in gallon/ hour and get a good idea of my range under power. I
know that if I run at lower rpms I can go longer and if I run faster my fuel
will give out sooner. I also have a good idea of the capacity of my tank
because with 5 extra gallons handy I've run the tank dry. Bleeding the
engine is easy and a handy skill to possess. 

One of the few ways a Swan is better than a Baltic is that they have a tube
and a calibrated dipstick for water and fuel tanks so up you can get a good
handle on your remaining fuel. I plan to install a way to dip my tank on
Masquerade soon. Another great way to monitor tank level is to have a sight
tube; basically you have an elbow coming out the bottom of the tank and
another at the top directly above and connect them with a clear or
translucent hose. Simple and elegant.

The only fuel gauges I've seen that consistently work are the ones where you
pump them up at the gauge and take a reading. I think it's called a Tank
Tender.

Good luck

Andy

Masquerade

Currently in Oxford, MD

Planning to start back toward Newport tomorrow

Andrew Burton 

26 Beacon Hill

Newport, RI 

USA02840

 

www.burtonsailing.com  

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 

+401 965-5260

 

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Re: Stus-List wire-to-rope vs rope

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I haven’t had a problem in over 20 years – but my sheaves were not damaged.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2020 11:13 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List wire-to-rope vs rope

 

Joe,

Unless the sheave was damaged, it should not be an issue.  You could add a 
cover to the end of the halyard.

Joel

 

 

 

On Wed, Mar 11, 2020 at 11:02 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

My wire to rope jib halyard dates back to the 1980s and has some nasty meat 
hooks. I have several all rope halyards that were given to me and have sat 
inside my shed for years. I used the old wire halyard to pull one through and 
my original thought was to get another one made. This does raise an obvious 
question – why not just use the rope?

My fear is that since the sail usually only comes down once a year if that, the 
rope will get chewed through on the masthead shiv. Is this an issue?

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com  

 

 

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-- 

Joel 

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Re: Stus-List Number of C 41s that are still afloat?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I think you are way off in your numbers. Just in the 30-1 model, we have number 
1 still around and there are numbers in the mid 600's (I have 593). So I think 
there are far more than 700 total C's ever built.

Gary

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Will Gerstmyer via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 29, 2020 8:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Will Gerstmyer 
Subject: Stus-List Number of C 41s that are still afloat?

Hi. I can find that there were 700-something C built—but no breakdown by 
model, so that includes all models. Does anybody know how many were 41’s? How 
many are still afloat? Thanks, Will

Will Gerstmyer 
978-609-1331
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Re: Stus-List Raw water blockage

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I am in the process of installing a new cylinder head on my Yanmar (raw water 
cooled) and discovered the exhaust manifold, where the passages looked free, 
had blockage on the end of the manifold where the mixing elbow connects. There 
is a large, flat copper gasket between the manifold and elbow which, when 
removed, showed a large build-up of carbon in the manifold passages, 
substantially blocking passage of the cooling water. Just another place to look.

 

Gary Nylander -  30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Tom Buscaglia via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, February 2, 2020 2:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List Raw water blockage

 

I have checked the intake, pump, strainer, heat exchanger, mixing elbow.  All 
are clear, elbow is new.  Still, no water out exhaust.

 

I am wondering if the vented loop between the heat exchanger and mixing elbow 
could be the culprit.  It is even necessary on my boat?  Seems that the elbow 
is well above the water line and the loop could be bypassed.

 

The  only other possibility is the hoses on the suction side of the system 
collapsing on the inside...but that still seems unlikely.

 

Thoughts appreciated.

 

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera 

1990 C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

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Re: Stus-List Combing Box replacement

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Were those standard on a 30-1? Mine does not have any.
Gary

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Matt Wolford via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2020 1:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wolf...@erie.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Combing Box replacement

A coaming box is a storage box inserted into the coaming surrounding the 
cockpit.  They're good for storing winch handles and the like.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Gary Nylander via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2020 1:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Combing Box replacement

Forgive my ignorance, what is a combing box? Wooden? On a 30-1?
Gary 
30-1 #593



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of T Smyth via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2020 12:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T Smyth 
Subject: Stus-List Combing Box replacement

My wooden combing boxes have mostly collapsed on the inside and I would like to 
replace them.

Plastic is OK.  Has anyone on this list had success replacing your combing box?
Any suggestions about where to purchase an “exact” size. (Internet searches 
have not been terribly productive.)

Thanks!
Tom
C 30 MK1 (1974)
Augusta GA



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Re: Stus-List Combing Box replacement

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Forgive my ignorance, what is a combing box? Wooden? On a 30-1?
Gary 
30-1 #593



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of T Smyth via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2020 12:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T Smyth 
Subject: Stus-List Combing Box replacement

My wooden combing boxes have mostly collapsed on the inside and I would like to 
replace them.

Plastic is OK.  Has anyone on this list had success replacing your combing box?
Any suggestions about where to purchase an “exact” size. (Internet searches 
have not been terribly productive.)

Thanks!
Tom
C 30 MK1 (1974)
Augusta GA



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Re: Stus-List cleaning the bilge

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

A roll of paper towels and a bottle of Simple Green should to the trick unless 
you have a pool of oil, then two rolls will be better. Just did some of that 
stuff.

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bev Parslow via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2020 10:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bev Parslow 
Subject: Stus-List cleaning the bilge

 

Need to clean out an oily bilge. Can I use a normal degreaser, or will that 
mess up the bilge pump? Any thoughts?

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Re: Stus-List listed weights

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I seem to recall a story about C 99 number one. When it was shipped to 
Annapolis for the boat show, it was “not quite done”, so the story goes. It had 
a cobbled together interior – I heard it was made of some 110 parts, but cut 
down and very light.

 

Then the boat was shown at the show and sailed around and left in Annapolis - 
and the designer and a carefully selected crew of hot shots sailed it around 
and kicked butt in a big way. Nice handicap indicating a very fast 32 footer. I 
understand it was very hard for mere mortals to match that handicap. 

 

True? Beats me, but the PHRF guys adjusted the rating somewhat later.

 

Gary  

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Charlie Nelson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2019 4:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List listed weights

 

+1 to Chuck regarding marketing.  

 

OTOH, given the potential variations in the layup of our 'not one design boats' 
as they were manufactured, with different masts, keels, interior fit-outs, etc. 
etc., I doubt that even the designer/builder knows how much the boat weighs 
when it leaves the factory. 

 

As a minor example, when I had my centerboard rebuilt for my 1995 36 XL/kcb, I 
contacted Rob Ball who designed the boat to ask how much lead to add to the 
inside of the fiberglass board. I could not find a reference to this in any 
drawings I was able to obtain after C went out of business.

 

I don't recall his exact words but they were something like "...we poured lead 
or lead shot inside the fiberglass until it looked pretty full...". The board 
or the boat were never weighed at the factory.

 

The yard who rebuilt the board did the same and they started a pool among the 
workers who estimated how much it would weigh when filled. Turned out it 
weighed in at 924 lbs and the office secretary won the pool!!

 

Unless one of our boats is weighed or measured for a rating certificate, its 
estimated weight/displacement/etc. is mostly a guesstimate with a wide 
(probably +/- 10%) range IMHO.

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C 36XL/kcb

 

-Original Message-
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net> >
Sent: Mon, Dec 16, 2019 4:03 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List listed weights

Sometimes marketing people adjust specifications to sell boats.  I would call 
it lying, but sales people call it marketing.  I'm a person who would pour over 
data and specifications to make a buying decision and the sales guys know us 
and simply change the manufacturing specs to sell product.  As a resuIt, I 
never believe manufacturers' specs.   

 

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C 34R 

 

  

On December 16, 2019 at 1:36 PM Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

The listed weight of the 30-1 on the spec sheets is 8000#. I doubt there was 
ever one that light. The ones which have been weighed seem to hover around 
9000. After looking at Rich’s #1, I can see a lot of differences, such as his 
chainplate system. And, after seeing pictures of other boats – mine has the 
teak and holly floor throughout, a sump pump for the shower, pressure water, 
hot water heater, two batteries, and the three burner propane stove/oven which 
were accessories. 

  

>From some earlier comments by owners, I don’t think the raising of the boom 
>did much for performance, but it did relieve a lot of headaches. 

  

And I agree with Michael, the boat does quite well in 15 knots and above. 

  

Gary 

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List PHRF Reviews and Adjustments

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

PHRF of the Chesapeake assumes you have a prepared boat. That means good to 
excellent sails, a crack crew, clean bottom, folding or feathering prop, and so 
forth. They used to assume a 155% genoa, but I have seen some adjustments for 
smaller or larger (class boats). They are also coming up with a double handed 
fleet, cruising classes, and so forth – some of which fall outside of PHRF. Any 
way to get boats out of their slips.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2019 9:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER ; Michael Brown 
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Reviews and Adjustments

 

My two cents;  With hundreds of boats to rate, I wouldn't expect the rating 
committees to make any rating adjustment unless there was a serious complaint 
or an appeal to get their attention, and some good solid race results to make a 
judgement.  Someone I know asked for an appeal to raise his rating and was 
denied.  He had to answer a list of questions that revealed he had older sails, 
inexperienced crew, and never scrubbed the bottom of his boat during the racing 
season.  The rating assumes you have properly prepared the boat to race, have 
decent sails, and knowledgeable crew and clean bottom.  

 

Does anyone race in a fleet where they give a handicap for solo sailors?  I 
heard San Francisco gives 13 seconds. 

 

Chuck, Resolute 1989 C 34R 

 

On December 16, 2019 at 12:08 AM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

Thank you all for the responses on this subject.  I got information I was 
looking for: 

 

* The Gulf Yachting Association PHRF Committee conducts an annual review. The 
minutes of the most recent annual review show +3/-3 adjustments based on 
performance. 

* The Narragansett Bay PHRF Committee reviews boat performance regularly.  Its 
principles state that handicaps are adjusted on the basis of the boat's 
performance. 

* At Shawn Wright's club (somewhere in British Columbia), the club handicapper 
provides a rating and it is reviewed after each series of races based on 
results. 

* In PHRF Lake Ontario, classes that consistently perform differently from 
their rating get reviewed by PHRF-LO Central Council every year. 

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Re: Stus-List PHRF Reviews and Adjustments

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The listed weight of the 30-1 on the spec sheets is 8000#. I doubt there was 
ever one that light. The ones which have been weighed seem to hover around 
9000. After looking at Rich’s #1, I can see a lot of differences, such as his 
chainplate system. And, after seeing pictures of other boats – mine has the 
teak and holly floor throughout, a sump pump for the shower, pressure water, 
hot water heater, two batteries, and the three burner propane stove/oven which 
were accessories. 

 

>From some earlier comments by owners, I don’t think the raising of the boom 
>did much for performance, but it did relieve a lot of headaches. 

 

And I agree with Michael, the boat does quite well in 15 knots and above.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Michael Brown via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2019 8:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown 
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Reviews and Adjustments

 

Also the 30-1 is far from a one design.

 

The earlier models tended to be heavier, possibly due to things

like the water tanks being made out of fiberglass versus the

later models having plastic tanks. The rudder design changed

and the boom was raised 1'. I have pictures of 30-1s side by

side with obvious differences in the spreader height.

 

At the club haul out the crane measures the boat weights. While

not striped out but somewhat equally emptied the 30-1s can be

as much as 500 lbs difference in weight to each other.


Michael Brown

Windburn

C 30-1






From: Fred Hazzard mailto:fshazz...@gmail.com> > 
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: 12/13/2019 7:33 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Reviews and Adjustments 

I am surprised that all the 30’s are rated the same given the dramatic 
differences in conditions they race in. San Francisco verses San Diego for 
example. 

 

Fred Hazzard 

S/V Fury 

C 44

Portland Or 

 

On Fri, Dec 13, 2019 at 7:08 AM Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I’m guessing most of the reviews are for boats with big changes in performance. 
PHRF Chesapeake has done some, but not often. Looking around the country, the 
30-1, from hull number 1 (on the Chesapeake) to hull numbers over 600 seem to 
have the same 174 handicap (mine is number 593 and is 174 also). There may be 
exceptions, but I would doubt that Randy’s boat (assuming it has not been 
modified in major ways) would prompt a review. I’m not sure what one would do 
to a 30-1 to increase performance unless you cut a bunch of weight off the keel 
– and that would decrease it’s performance in heavy weather. At the Chesapeake 
rendezvous a couple months ago, I got to look at Rick’s number 1 and it is very 
similar to my 593, only differing is the area of chainplate attachments and 
some cabinet doors. 

 

Gary Nylander

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Re: Stus-List PHRF Reviews and Adjustments

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I am pretty sure there was a shoal draft version of the 30-1. There is a 
drawing in the back of my owner’s manual which shows such a boat – dotted line 
about six inches above the profile of the keel. No other mentions in the manual 
(which covers most of the early boats and is dated from 1976 to 1979, depending 
on the page.

Gary Nylander

#593

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Rick Brass via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2019 11:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Reviews and Adjustments

 

According to the US Sailing PHRF Rating Book, the base for the 30-1 is 174. 
That number is generally established as a “yardstick” based on information 
supplied by the manufacturer when the boat is first manufactured.

 

The actual base ratings across the various PHRF fleets range from a low of 168 
to a high of 186 (based on the “dramatic differences in local conditions” as 
you put it. Individual boat ratings will depend on modifications, sails, and 
all the other variables that PHRF considers.

 

NC-PHRF doesn’t have any 30’s in the fleet. Chessie PHRF shows 3: Anchovy and 
Gary’s boat at 174, and a shoal draft 30 (could this really be a 30-2?) rated 
at 180.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2019 7:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Fred Hazzard mailto:fshazz...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Reviews and Adjustments

 

I am surprised that all the 30’s are rated the same given the dramatic 
differences in conditions they race in. San Francisco verses San Diego for 
example. 

 

Fred Hazzard 

S/V Fury 

C 44

Portland Or 

 

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List PHRF Reviews and Adjustments

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I’m guessing most of the reviews are for boats with big changes in performance. 
PHRF Chesapeake has done some, but not often. Looking around the country, the 
30-1, from hull number 1 (on the Chesapeake) to hull numbers over 600 seem to 
have the same 174 handicap (mine is number 593 and is 174 also). There may be 
exceptions, but I would doubt that Randy’s boat (assuming it has not been 
modified in major ways) would prompt a review. I’m not sure what one would do 
to a 30-1 to increase performance unless you cut a bunch of weight off the keel 
– and that would decrease it’s performance in heavy weather. At the Chesapeake 
rendezvous a couple months ago, I got to look at Rick’s number 1 and it is very 
similar to my 593, only differing is the area of chainplate attachments and 
some cabinet doors. 

 

Gary Nylander

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Knecht via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2019 5:40 PM
To: CnC discussion list CnC 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF Reviews and Adjustments

 

I am pretty sure that no review of ratings has been done at my club in at least 
10 years.  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT








On Dec 12, 2019, at 5:36 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Well Lee, since you bring up PHRF reviews, let me ask you listers, how often do 
your clubs or RSAs conduct rating reviews and adjustments?  

 

The introduction in “the book” 
(https://www.ussailing.org/competition/offshore/phrf/phrf-handicaps/) says 
under heading "Considerations when using this listing to determine a handicap 
by averaging fleet data” that "After the initial handicap is chosen and the 
boat is raced, an empirical analysis of performance may permit a more refined 
estimate of its speed potential.”  And a review of 
https://www.ussailing.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/USPHRF-Fleets-1.pdf shows 
that most clubs derive handicaps from “the book,” then review and adjust based 
on local experience. 

 

So, how many of y’all do that?

 

Cheers,

Randy





On Dec 12, 2019, at 11:20 AM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Dear Sir,

 

RE:  Randy Stafford  S/V Grenadin   C 30 MK I #79  LISTED as Hull #7

 

I have put in a request for an immediate PHRF review of your boat.  With over 
70 shipyard refinements, it’s clear now, why your boat is so fast, and only 
right that your rating reflect the changes you failed to document.  I expect 
the board will want to question you very carefully about the additional changes 
to your boat over and above the documented 1972 norms.  I have suggested that 
the penalty not be limited to just changing a PHRF number, but the monetary 
fine should reflect the price of the current boat you have chosen to race.  
Perhaps if you raced a newer more expensive boat, you would be disinclined to 
perpetrate this excessive winning streak, which is depressing both the local 
fleet and the attendance of future sailors to the sport.  You should hear from 
the PHRF board by the end of the month.

 

Regretfully, Lee   

Yea, cold and wet in Seattle 

 

On Dec 12, 2019, at 2:31 09AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Listers-

 

When I was buying my 30 MK I (HIN 30007972) four years ago, I came to the 
conclusion she was hull number 7 laid up in September 1972, I think based on 
this old post: 
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2012-April/044412.html.

 

Meanwhile a discussion arose recently in the Facebook C Owners Group where a 
guy asked how to decode HIN 30002672.  I emailed Rob Ball hoping for 
clarification, and Rob referred me to Rob MacLachlan of South Shore Yachts.  
Rob MacLachlan said definitively I have hull #79, not hull #7.  So the HIN 
format C used before standardization on November 1st 1972 apparently didn’t 
include any digits indicating the month in which the hull was laid up.

 

I’ll be damned, I said.  All this time I thought I had hull #7.

 

Rick Bushie on this list owns 30 MK I hull #1, and his HIN plate says simply 
“30-1 1971N”.

Brian Buttigieg in the Facebook group owns 30 MK I hull #5, he says, but hasn’t 
posted his HIN yet.

Jack Rousseau in the Facebook group owned 30 MK I hull #8 and said it was made 
in 1971.

Sean Dillon in the Facebook group owns 30 MK I hull #14 and says it’s a 1971 
boat.

Ed Levert on this list owned hull #19 and thought it was a 1971 boat.

The owners of HINs 30002672, 30005972, and 30009472 have also been heard from 
here or in the Facebook group.

Steve Guiney in the Facebook group owns hull #123 and his HIN is CCY301231172 
(CCY was later used by the Rhode Island factory but it didn’t open until 
February 1976)

 

It seems clear that C changed 30 MK I HIN formats at least twice over the 
production run.  And I shall change my email signature according to what I’ve 
learnt.

 

Cheers,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C 30 MK I #79

Ken Caryl, CO

Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I had a fellow competitor drift into me on a no-wind day and the tall bow of 
his large boat bent the toe rail, just forward of the joint between the two 
halves. I took it off – about 50 bolt/nut/washer combinations. A local shop put 
it on their 20x20 flat table and straightened it and I put it back on with a 
fresh strip of butyl. No leaks – It was not fun taking it off, as access is not 
the best (I found on a 30-1 if you take the shelves off in the Vee berth area, 
it is a lot easier). Put it back on – much easier and no leaks. I doubt you 
would need the 5200.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of James Hesketh via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 7:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: James Hesketh 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

 

Thank you all for the helpful responses. 

 

I did have extensive leaking from under the toerail when first getting the boat 
5 years ago and mostly stopped it by running a bead of 5200 around the inner 
perimeter of the rail and figured that was a temporary fix. That 5200 had now 
degraded and is cracking, I'm assuming due to UV exposure. 

 

My boat has been a Florida boat since new and I'm guessing the heat has had an 
affect on the deck/hull seal -- the original butyl sealant is weeping out and 
dripping down onto the inner hull (big mess); it would be an impossible job to 
remove the deck to replace. Don't know why I never thought to check the bolt 
tightness before it being mentioned in your replies; they are almost all 
finger-loose, I'm assuming because of the settling of the deck due to the loss 
of the original deck/hull sealant. I haven't seen any weeping of the sealant 
between the toerail and deck

 

I'm currently prepping the boat for deck/cabin/cockpit painting and have all 
deck hardware removed and will re-bed when refitting -- now is the time to 
tackle this.

 

I'm thinking now my options are to go with my original plan of total R of the 
rail -- or to pull the bolts a few at a time, work some fresh butyl into the 
hole and screw the bolt back in through the sealant, tighten them properly, and 
back that up with another bead of calk on the deck/rail if needed (and redo 
that every few years as needed).

 

Thoughts . . .?

 

Last year I rebuilt the kingpost support in the bilge, reinforced the bulkheads 
for the chain plates and did some deck repair where the chain plates went 
through, did some glass/gelcoat work around the fore hatch where it had 
deformed due to the mast step setteling, made a new main hatch slider and 
cockpit locker rails. I enjoy bringing her back to shape, but I do enjoy 
sailing more than working on her. I figure these projects will be good for 
another few decades.

 

Thanks again,

Jim 

 

On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 3:21 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

This link will take you (should take you?) to a drawing of the C toe rail 
design by 1988 or so:

 

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a9bOV0skefEUTFpVkv51NwlYdrABb80JetHmGGeftc-PldDJ8aKaUXnUIPBbrBcvKjmlAtasRO2pjwvuFYHGYx4faUPYxLb6qQKvCVHCGyOcywF-TyJZ-otqWTYyRzMHyhW1gk_lBUwtLo5fCWneDsjWlqD6CRnJeEtCCFBBWfZPJrW3jkKa9XDbHwUBggCBdoTwe-RNvX66kvPmOqKceLDKSV_EP5XOhOWoQXeUCz-0ScJ-4Gp1sjozsS9lz5eAhF-tD90yYrbGwq0_6XS4DWPtJt0uznrt_3tCzJeAawhBbv0Djih947M8tI9C8dQXyqBS8EgDMI4jNvyNOZall4nFT2yDac4lhxpMginaj4poGEBeEP7_fGdoX0b-5chgfu3vt8jKOjSZ-L7I4qmez7BPkMWMhvXErtwpQihxQBb7x072jjn6Qg5xoNwTqVhxAmQuvxDP7JsD9rudEEI4256eYKGqS8Xn9iFR15-TC5nEB9NKfDGpEP4dp56zvKKmjuyqLHjVI1XSV7MZ-0IPVevvkKoVeWhHOGo-9gj4mCrG5_vce1-l-5yDPNn_uqlobzzW4rvkBtpTRx7sopLHxAuN-eBIFRL-XK9Nbc5KiAeE1v7wGxD-yXd_Gq5SawAeb0MYBGaStF_TMeW6Ve6bdGP1dMUCJf0si24nNuPdBYqU5MJSH5LanQ=w805-h1057-no

 

I realise the older boats are a bit different as the Rub Rail is part of the 
'sandwich' in the older ones.

 

Ken H.

 

On Tue, 5 Nov 2019 at 14:34, Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I think you’ll find the consensus of advice to be “Don’t do it.”

 

The hull to deck joint and toe rail on the older C is a pretty well 
engineered setup that will last a lifetime. There are several  hundred of us on 
the list, and I suspect the number who have had leaks in the toe rail or hull 
to deck join is near single digits.

 

Basically the joint (from bottom to  top) is as follows: Inward facing flange 
on the hull, layer of butyl, rubber rub rail riveted to the hull flange, 
another layer of butyl, the deck, another layer of butyl, the toe rail, then it 
is all through bolted with stainless oval head machine screws. My 25 has screws 
every 6” (IIRC) and my 38 is bolted every 4”. Removing the bolts and toe rail 
can possibly compromise every layer of the seal.

 

If you have an owners’ manual (or buy one from the Photo Album website) you can 
see a cross section of the joint.

 

In almost all cases the recommended fix for a leak (which seem to mostly be 
around the machine screws) is to tighten the through bolts about ½ to a full 
turn, and apply Captain 

Re: Stus-List Air Filter Media, Yanmar 3JH2E

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

First thing I would try is just to remove the foam part of the air filter and 
see if that makes a difference, just for a short trip. Even though you cleaned 
it, there could be some collapse inside.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2019 3:30 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Stus-List Air Filter Media, Yanmar 3JH2E

 

Hello all,

 

Some of you may remember a few weeks back I was inquiring about an apparent 
lack of power on our 3JH2E.  This was resulting in the engine, when in forward, 
not getting up above 2,800 rpm when I used to be able to get up to 3,200.  

 

Lots has been happening since then, as we figured out:

 

A).  We had a transmission problem (bearings spinning, trans slipping, etc.) 
that required a rebuilt transmission.  

B).  I realized that my rather robust job of re-insulating the engine 
compartment might be causing the engine to starve for air. 

C).  I removed a Panda generator in the port aft locker that was entirely 
seized.  That included removing and covering a very large air vent measuring 
11' x 7" in the side of the locker, meaning that if we were really pooped by a 
large wave, the boat could ingest a big volume of water while the cockpit 
drained.  I subsequently heard you folks talk about engine blowers, which my 
boat never had, and I overlooked.  Had my boat included a blower, I would have 
known not to entirely cover the vent.

D).  The "intake silencer" noted in my Yanmar 3JH2E manual and which looked 
mostly like a metal mesh/stainless cone with holes from the inside is actually 
removable and has foam that is now clean.  I got a reasonable amount of crud 
out of it, but I don't want to say it was fully clogged. 

 

As we got this done, coincidentally the diver came by and cleaned the hull.  
Here in the warm, shallow Tampa Bay area, we tend to grow stuff pretty quickly 
in summer and fall, so the timing was perfect.  Once we got all this done we 
went out and motored and, with one of the engine side panels removed to ensure 
good airflow (I've not yet addressed the vent where the generator was as of 
yet), the engine will now go to 3,000 rpm in gear, but still not to 3,200.  It 
revs to 3,600 WOT at the dock in neutral.  Fuel filters are good, I don't think 
I have any air leaking into the lines. I'll seriously look for black smoke 
under hard acceleration thought I have not noticed it in the past.  

 

I want to start by eliminating the easy stuff.  like improving airflow.  I 
tried to price out the filter with Yanmar, but they only sell the complete 
silencer, metal casing and all for $132.  Sigh.

 

I can get green 65 PPI foam online, but there's always the quality issue with 
Amazon.  

 

I can't seem to find an aftermarket K or other high performance filter (which 
I would prefer instead of relying on foam).

 

Once I'm 100% sure the airflow is not restricted, I'll make sure the injectors 
are really clean, then move to timing & injector testing. etc. as per your 
previous recommendations.  

 

What would you do about replacing the foam/filter?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Bruce Whitmore

 

 

 

 

Bruce Whitmore


(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net  

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Stubs-List Engine cut out in rough seas

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Yes. Mine has saved me – the surface area and collection area are much much 
larger.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Derek McLeod via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2019 1:51 PM
To: Doug Mountjoy 
Cc: Derek McLeod ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine cut out in rough seas

 

Hi,

 

This video was very helpful to get the air bled out of the system. In the end, 
it was just air and not any gunk that I could see inside the tank. That said, 
I’ll get some of the biocide mentioned and worry a bit less. I bled up to the 
injectors and then flipped them off and cranked for a few seconds. After that, 
flipped the injectors back on and it fired right up. 

 

I also realized that my engine doesn’t have a primary Racor fuel 
filter/separator. It came this way and does have the secondary Yanmar one on 
the engine. Would adding a Racor be a good idea? 

Derek McLeod

Aileron, 1983 C 29-2

Toronto


On Oct 17, 2019, at 12:28 PM, Doug Mountjoy mailto:svrebeccal...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Derek, 

Sounds like your fuel filters are plugged. 

here is a good video of changing your fuel filters and bleeding the fuel 
system. Its 





not a hard job, but it can be a bit messy. have lots of oil diapers on hand. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ub0zfW42mVo

 

Doug 

 

 

On Thu, Oct 17, 2019 at 9:02 AM Derek McLeod via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi,

Any suggestions as to troubleshooting my Yanmar 2GM that cut out on me in rough 
seas the other day? It was windy and confused waves near the shore of the 
Toronto island. I was motoring out of the channel, rounded into the lake and it 
died and wouldn’t restart. This happened a couple years ago when debris was 
kicked up in the bottom of the diesel tank. I had the marina tackle it last 
time and would like to take care of it myself. Thanks,

Derek McLeod 
Aileron, 1983 C 29-2
Toronto
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-- 

Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412

Port Orchard YC, WA

Rebecca Leah

LF39

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Re: Stus-List Boat Selling Tips

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

As one who has seen the boat on the course, one should look at the racing 
record Jake has accumulated. It is impressive. He dominated the NS class on the 
Chesapeake for a number of years. One who may be interested in a good 
cruiser/racer should jump.

Gary Nylander

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bailey White via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2019 4:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bailey White 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Selling Tips

 

Mike Hoyt has done an admirable job of describing his boats' value but that is 
not easily done in retrospect.

 

Jake, I don't have much advice for you except some practical questions and 
thoughts that I hope help:

* Is there anyone local who appreciates the boat and has interest or has 
passed?  If people passed, what was the feedback?

* Are the advertised ratings for things like the 2012 #1 jib in Excellent 
condition really true?  This seems a little hard to believe given it is 7 years 
ago but is possible if properly stored and not used.

 

Overall, the boat has many improvements included that cost quite a bit.  Might 
be worth listing how much investment the boat has had as I think that would be 
a differentiator.  

 

My sense reading the ad in Yachtworld is that the boat has been very well cared 
for and it would cost much more than the $25K asking price to bring up to snuff 
another boat of its vintage that was neglected and came with old sails ready to 
be replaced.  

 

If that is true, the pictures of sun beaten cordage around the traveler and no 
shots of the boat sailing with its pristine carbon / kevlar sails could the 
boat feel much more average that perhaps it really is. 

 

Many people these days want either a boat that is more cruising oriented with 
an aft cabin under the cockpit or a hard core racing boat.  You have a great 
boat that can do both racing and cruising if the right person comes forward.

 

best,

Bailey

 

1979 C 36

Lake Lanier, Georgia

 

 

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Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Gary Nylander/Penniless/30-1 #593/’80/83346/ gnylan...@atlanticbb.net 
  /St. Michaels, MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Jeff Helsdingen via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 3, 2019 5:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeff Helsdingen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

 

Jeff & Jill Helsdingen / Caposhi / C 35 mk1 / 24141 / onemorej...@gmail.com 
   / Port Stanley ON

 

On Thu., Oct. 3, 2019, 4:53 p.m. Edd Schillay via CnC-List, 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Listers,

 

In my spare time, I’m going to start working on an email list / bulletin board 
/ photo archive / information center website for C Owners, that will act as a 
supplement and perhaps one day, only when Stu says he’s no longer interested in 
continuing on, act as a replacement to the service we are using now.

 

I’d like to start compiling a database of C Owners. When you have a moment, 
please respond to this email (either to the whole list or by direct email to 
me) with the following information:

 

Name / Boat name / C Model / C Year / Sail number / Email Address / Home 
Port

 

For example:

Edd Schillay / Starship Enterprise / C 37/40+ / 1990 / NCC-1701-B /  
 e...@schillay.com / Venice Island, FL

 

Thanks to all. 

 

And for those of you up north who are reviewing/signing their winter haul-out 
and storage contracts, I can now say, “Nah, Nah. Na-Na Nah!"

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Captain of the Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL 

 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log   

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Re: Stus-List cockpit cup holders

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I have two of the four-cup/binoc holders on the binnacle of Penniless. The top 
one gets the binocs (when needed) and the hand held VHF and the bottom gets the 
crew’s miscellaneous cans. I have the plastic ones.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Doug Mountjoy via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 11:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Mountjoy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit cup holders

 

Tom, 

Check these out from Fisheries Supply. 

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/boat-furniture-and-outdoor-living/cockpit-accessories

 

On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 5:28 AM T Smyth via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

This may seem frivolous but I recognized a serious need for cockpit cup holders 
during a recent outing on Shangri-La.

 

I am looking for recommendations for types of and recommended locations for 
cockpit cup holders on a C 30 MK1 (1974).

 

There are lots of possibilities. I’m looking for something that is 
aesthetically pleasing and functional and will not interfere with activity in 
the cockpit.

Horizontal and vertical examples include https://amzn.to/2nJuNqe and 
http://bit.ly/2nMnWML

 

What has worked well for you? Thanks for sharing any experiences and ideas if 
you have a moment.

 

…. Cheers!

 

Tom

 

C 30 (1974)

Augusta GA

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-- 

Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412

Port Orchard YC, WA

Rebecca Leah

LF39

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Re: Stus-List Rigging information.

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The owner's manual does not have much rigging information. I have hull
number 593, and there are hull numbers 1 and 7 on this list, ranging up to
the low 600's. Lots of good information. You spoke of blocks for the main,
do you mean the oak ones (I have six) at the partners (mast exit from the
cabin) or the shims in the aluminum box at the base of the mast (I have
four). As Joe said, the hull number is molded in the upper right corner of
the transom - the last three digits are the hull number.

Keep asking, there is a lot of help here.

Gary Nylander
#593 - 1980

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of HV via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 8:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: HV 
Subject: Stus-List Rigging information.

Hi all,

Recently purchased a 1979 C 30 MK1, I have sent a payment to get the
owners manual but I am unsure if it has rigging information.

So I am wondering if anyone would be willing to share some images of how
their Cunningham/Downhaul may be rigged...

Additionally, for some reason the waste tank behind the bulkhead in the head
has been abandoned, does anyone have any information on how this was setup?

I am really liking this boat (I have owned many), she is in very good
condition and just needs some TLC, oh I am also interested in adding a bow
anchor roller, has anyone done this to their 30Mk1?

Does anyone know how many blocks should be used as mast spacers and their
placement? mine only has 5 and are installed randomly...

Lastly, how do I know the hull # for placing on my new Mainsail?


Thank in advance for any help, pictures and advice...


Fair Winds and Following Seas.

Hari

S/V Thalassa


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Re: Stus-List 19th of October Saint Michaels Maryland C Rendezvous

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

That should be no problem. I know Jamie (owner) quite well. I’ll arrange it.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2019 11:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 19th of October Saint Michaels Maryland C Rendezvous

 

I am going this afternoon to sign up for the Maritime Museum. 

My understanding is this supports 4 boats including me, so Tuesday we should be 
able to sign up 3 more.

I saw these people at our local farmer’s market:

http://lyondistilling.com/

They are in Saint Mike’s and might be persuaded to do a tour.

 

Joe

Coquina

 

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Re: Stus-List 19th of October Saint Michaels Maryland C Rendezvous

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Let me see what arrangements need to be made. The slips are free for a member 
at a certain member level. I may qualify. I’ll catch her tomorrow.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2019 5:30 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 19th of October Saint Michaels Maryland C Rendezvous

 

As I believe Liz is intending the message to be understood, a member has to be 
hosting the Rendezvous by bringing their boat and renting a slip.  If none of 
the rendezvous attendees that are coming by boat are members then one of us 
would have to purchase a membership.  I would gladly do it but have no use for 
a membership.  I would be willing to offset someone else's membership fee if 
they had a use for a membership and I would expect/encourage other attendees to 
do the same.

 

Josh 

 

On Mon, Aug 26, 2019, 5:22 PM Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Not sure.  No one?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
<https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers_wl=ym_sub1=Internal_sub2=Global_YGrowth_sub3=EmailSignature>
 

 

On Mon, Aug 26, 2019 at 5:02 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List

mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

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Re: Stus-List 19th of October Saint Michaels Maryland C Rendezvous

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I’m a lifetime member and volunteer. Who are you dealing with?

Gary

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2019 4:46 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 19th of October Saint Michaels Maryland C Rendezvous

 

OK folks, I got word back from Liz at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum in St. 
Michael's.  It looks like she can accommodate our party.  I think the amenities 
are going to be nicer than Higgin's.  There are some caveats regarding the 
price.  I'm looking for someone who has or wants to have a membership to CBMM 
at a cost of $125.

 

See the Facebook post in the link below.

 

https://m.facebook.com/events/249336025743002?view=permalink 
<https://m.facebook.com/events/249336025743002?view=permalink=370114306998506>
 =370114306998506

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

On Mon, Aug 19, 2019, 4:52 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

This should help!

 

Joe

Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> ] On Behalf Of CHARLES SCHEAFFER via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2019 4:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

 

Hi Guys,
Sorry for this last minute commit. I live in New Jersey and keep my boat in 
idyllic Magothy River but presently on the hard in Pasadena, Md at Oak Harbor 
near Baltimore. I'm redoing my decks so not sure if I will bring the boat, but 
that's what I'm working toward. Anyway, I just wrote the rendezvous onto my 
calendar and suggest any future correspondence include Oct 19th in the subject 
line as it was hard to find the date. My boat has no dodger or bimini for rainy 
day gatherings, but Resolute would like to provide iced coolers of local craft 
beer at any events planned. Our way of supporting the event. 


Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1990 C 34R



On August 19, 2019 at 1:53 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

Gary, I have previously envisioned pavilions, music, sponsors, vendors, 
demonstrations, races, and tours.  What I have experienced in reality thought 
is that people really just enjoy getting together and hanging out.  Most of us 
are casual cruisers and enjoy an excuse to cruise to a location and hang out 
with other boaters.  No one wants to over-commit as people still enjoy their 
own private space and adventures.   

 

- Group trips to local restaurants are well received. 

 

- There are a few distilleries that I'm thinking about setting up for a tour.  

 

- I figure the museum is going to be a nice visit. 

 

- For meals people do pretty well with pot luck and we all move between 
different host boats.  Last year was kinda rainy so Bob Boyer's full enclosure 
and Brian Fry's full bimini/dodger both came in handy. 

 

Josh  

 

On Mon, Aug 19, 2019, 1:06 PM Gary Nylander via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

I’ll have to walk the block over there… Thanks. What do you think about 
somewhere to meet/greet. We could do something at the museum, but would have to 
bring the food/drink or get a catering outfit. Higgins has picnic tables, or 
reservations could be made for a group at one of the restaurants. What has 
worked before?

Gary

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2019 12:56 PM
To: C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

 

I got word from Higgins they should be able to accommodate ~6 boats.  We had 5 
official boats in the reserved slips at Annapolis last year plus S/V Rainy Days 
who stayed separate.  When I attended the 2017 N.E. Rendezvous there were 5 
boats with a late breaking cancelation.  So 6 feels good as an unofficial 
count.  I need to move fast to make the reservation.  As I was warned St. 
Mike's does lots of festivals and that weekend turns out to be one of their 
biggest.

 

As Gary stated before, Higgins is not a "Marina" it is a boat yard.  The cost 
is very reasonable but amenities like pool and restaurant are not available the 
bathrooms are sparse.  My favorite thing about Higgins is the location.  It is 
perfectly located in the center of town.  Such an easy walk everywhere.

 

This is the make or break day on whether we keep the venue at St. Michael's or 
change to a different venue.  

 

PLEASE RSVP TODAY SO THAT I CAN MAKE THE FINAL DECISION AND DOCKAGE RESERVATION!

 

 

All the best, 

 

Josh Muckley

443-295-3238 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

 

On Mon, Aug 19, 2019, 11:50 AM detroito91 via CnC-List

Re: Stus-List Barber haulers and whisker poles

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I use the spinnaker twings. The blocks at the end are  of the opening variety, 
so all I have to do is open them, snap them around the jib sheet and tune 
accordingly – outside the lifelines. I open the gate to run the sheet back 
aboard. On a 30-1, it really helps – wide boat.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Wade Glew via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2019 12:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Wade Glew 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barber haulers and whisker poles

 

Got it. Makes sense as I visualize the scene. Thanks

Wade 

 

On Wed, Aug 21, 2019, 20:34 Jim Watts via CnC-List, mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Yes. The geometry doesn't work unless the sheet is led underneath the lifelines 
too. Easier to use a second sheet led through a block on the toerail.  

 

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

 

On Wed, 21 Aug 2019 at 15:43, Wade Glew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

good pic John; thanks.   Is there a reason the twing line can't be attached 
outside the lifeline?

Wade

Oh Boy, C 33 MK II

 

On Wed, Aug 21, 2019 at 11:09 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I use a simple twing setup...easy to attach, easy to trim, cheap. Up to the 
point where you need to rig a second sheet outboard of the lifelines, anyhow. 

https://i.imgur.com/EwjDofL.jpg

 

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

 

On Wed, 21 Aug 2019 at 09:02, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

John:

 

Yes, leave the jib sheet attached.  Also, if you don’t like the position 
you get attaching the barber hauler line to the clew, you can also attach it to 
the jib sheet itself to deflect it.

 

 

 

From: John Conklin via CnC-List   

Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2019 11:30 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: John Conklin   

Subject: Re: Stus-List Barber haulers and whisker poles

 

All makes sense  

Based on replies Plan is to attach snatch block to toe rail mast area have the 
sheet run to and tied off at my extra winch on one end thru block and clipped 
off to upper lifeline tensioned to not flip around 

When reaching will attach this second line to clew  (leaving jib sheet 
attached??) and this should move clew outward the open the slot ! 

Let try it !! 

 

Thanks all!


John Conklin 

S/V Halcyon

S/V Heartbeat

www.flirtingwithfire.com  

 


 

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Re: Stus-List Barber haulers and whisker poles

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

We use the spinnaker twing also. Opens up the slot nicely.

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2019 4:13 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barber haulers and whisker poles

 

If you have a twing for your chute you can also try that instead of a snatch 
block.  With a snatch block we use the lazy sheet to run through the block and 
then switch sheets.

 

Joel

 

On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 3:54 PM Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Dave, here’s an article with pic I wrote for Cruising world. I only get the 
pole out to go wing and wing.

Andy

Andrew Burton

139 Tuckerman Ave

Middletown, RI 

USA02842

 

www.burtonsailing.com  

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

+401 965-5260


On Aug 20, 2019, at 15:48, David Knecht via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I have been reading about Barber Haulers to help with reaching by getting the 
clew further outboard and keeping the leech from twisting off.  I was thinking 
of a snatch block on the toe rail and a line snap shackled to the clew 
attachment point to accomplish this.  However, I have also seen people using 
their whisker pole on the leeward side to hold the genoa clew outboard and up.  
Has anyone compared these options?  The pole seems more of a hassle, but should 
be more effective.  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT


 

 

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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Tuning the mast.

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Or, you could have a Monday morning boat like mine. When I was trying to center 
the mast, I discovered the chainplate on the starboard side was an inch closer 
to the rail than the port one.  

 

Gary

30-1 – 1980 (maybe a Friday afternoon boat before vacation time?)

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2019 12:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tuning the mast.

 

I might be stating the obvious, but the boats are not completely symmetrical. 
They are, after all, made by hand by humans and they all have various 
imperfections. So the shape might be a bit different on stb or port; the boat 
might be listing in one direction; the keel and rudder might not be 100% 
symmetrical etc. 

 

On a boat with a keel-stepped mast, the deck opening through which the mast 
goes might be off by a small amount; as Josh mentioned, a 1/4” might be a lot, 
when you consider the length of the mast.

 

And on top of that, the growth on the bottom is also asymmetrical (the stuff 
grows on the sunny side more than the opposite).

 

in short, I would not consider difference in performance on different tacks as 
the symptom of a off-centre mast. It might be, but it is not the only one.

 

Marek

1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

 

From: Len Mitchell via CnC-List 

Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2019 12:33

To: CNC List 

Cc: Len Mitchell 

Subject: Stus-List Tuning the mast.

 

I am following this thread with great interest. I measured distances using the 
main halyard and believe my mast is plumb. The partners and foot hold the mast 
centred as far as I can tell and as long as the boat, keel and rudder are 
symmetrical. I continue to point higher and get better performance on a 
starboard tack and the boat lists a couple degrees at anchor, probably because 
of the battery bank located sb. There are more reasons than mast plumb that a 
boat performs better on one tack is my point. I noted better sb performance 
with all combinations of water tank and holding tank levels. I have tried for 
over 10 years to tune a better balance but she still sails a little better on 
starboard tack! 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+ 
Midland On

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I’ll have to walk the block over there… Thanks. What do you think about 
somewhere to meet/greet. We could do something at the museum, but would have to 
bring the food/drink or get a catering outfit. Higgins has picnic tables, or 
reservations could be made for a group at one of the restaurants. What has 
worked before?

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 19, 2019 12:56 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

 

I got word from Higgins they should be able to accommodate ~6 boats.  We had 5 
official boats in the reserved slips at Annapolis last year plus S/V Rainy Days 
who stayed separate.  When I attended the 2017 N.E. Rendezvous there were 5 
boats with a late breaking cancelation.  So 6 feels good as an unofficial 
count.  I need to move fast to make the reservation.  As I was warned St. 
Mike's does lots of festivals and that weekend turns out to be one of their 
biggest.

 

As Gary stated before, Higgins is not a "Marina" it is a boat yard.  The cost 
is very reasonable but amenities like pool and restaurant are not available the 
bathrooms are sparse.  My favorite thing about Higgins is the location.  It is 
perfectly located in the center of town.  Such an easy walk everywhere.

 

This is the make or break day on whether we keep the venue at St. Michael's or 
change to a different venue.  

 

PLEASE RSVP TODAY SO THAT I CAN MAKE THE FINAL DECISION AND DOCKAGE RESERVATION!

 

 

All the best, 

 

Josh Muckley

443-295-3238 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

 

On Mon, Aug 19, 2019, 11:50 AM detroito91 via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Will take your advice

Jim Schwartz 

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 8/19/19 11:45 AM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned 

 

I would reserve a room now. St Mikes is a popular place to go and you want to 
be in town.

Joe

Coquina

 

From: detroito91 [mailto:detroit...@aol.com  ] 
Sent: Friday, August 16, 2019 9:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

 

We should be there without boat

Jim Schwartz 

38 landfall 

SEA YA !

Washington nc 

 

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

As my boat is berthed next to Higgins (and winters there), I asked. Busy. The 
marinas around here are busy until the end of October. We only have a few slips 
available – Higgins has about 20 but a lot of repeat visitors, St. Michaels  
Marina has more but is busy most weekends, you may be better at CBMM (I am 
involved there and can ask) and Harbor Inn and Marina is limited and expensive.

 

I asked at Higgins (by the way they are new owners and great folks, but are 
keeping full) so I have to wonder how many attendees would be willing to anchor 
out – we can probably find a place for a party – my lawn is too small – the 
shuttle service is rather good, so anchoring is not a problem – I would 
recommend Fogg Cove by the Museum (and Perry Cabin megabucks resort – you have 
to endure the Hinckley tour boat and the fleet of Alerions of various lengths). 
About 10 feet and good holding.

 

Would you consider Miles River Yacht Club – again limited slips (bunch of owner 
boats) but the ‘creek’ has good space and I think the shuttle would be OK to 
get into town?

 

Sorry for no more local knowledge, but it has been a busy spring/summer, and we 
don’t have a lot of room, but a great place to live and sail.

 

Gary Nylander

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 4:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

 

I don’t think we have a final location. The Maritime Museum is fun. The Harbor 
Inn on the other side is luxurious. Higgins is a boatyard – not fancy – but 
nice people. The St Michaels Harbor Marina (sp??) is loud and the owners don’t 
care. Kind of the party marina over there.

 

Joe

Coquina

 

From: Robert Boyer [mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 4:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

 

Where in St. Michaels?

Bob Boyer

s/v Rainy Days

C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)

(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 

 

email: dainyr...@icloud.com  


On Aug 13, 2019, at 11:15 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Sounds fun! We love fall :)

 

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 11:11 AM
To: C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Any Mid-Atlantic rendezvous planned

 

That's right.  Weekend after sailboat show in October.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 10:56 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I seem to recall something about St. Michaels maybe?

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

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Re: Stus-List Boat Speed Paddlewheel ?'s

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Nope, our transponder housings are just plastic tubes – the transponder itself 
has a couple of “O” rings to seal it. My instruments came with a plug which 
looks just like the transponder without wires and paddlewheel, which goes in 
when the transponder is out (lately, that is all the time because the unit does 
not work). I have removed the wheel and cleaned the inside of the housing, I 
may try my handy Dremel with a wire wheel). 

 

Now that something just clobbered the masthead unit, I may just leave the depth 
working and scrap the rest. Buy something else.

Gary 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of dwight veinot via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2019 7:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Speed Paddlewheel ?'s

 

I have a Raymarine st60 paddle wheel. It is sensitive to how i insert it paddle 
wheel unit into the tube and i believe that is because the tobe has a little 
shutter which is supposed to slow water entering the boat when i remove the 
paddle wheel. Just a little adjustment up or down and it can go from showing 
zeros to speed i expect. I calibrated the I50 display against gps speed on the 
chart plotter.  Might help in your case

 

On Fri, Jul 26, 2019 at 6:34 PM Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I have also been having issues with my speed transducer. I pulled the pin, 
cleaned the wheel, made sure the pin was straight, and I could flick it by hand 
and it would measure OK. Put it in the water, no good. Bought a new wheel, went 
through the same deal, got the same result. I cannot figure out why it will 
rotate freely in air, measuring accurately, and then won’t work at all when 
installed. New wheel, old wheel, new shaft, old shaft, no change.

 

Any ideas?

Gary 

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2019 4:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Speed Paddlewheel ?'s

 

Hodges Marine has the Garmin GST 43 mm transducer for $122. The number on my 
spare is 010-04283-00. 

 

If you replace it, be sure and add stress relief to the cable where it exits 
the transducer. Slide a couple 2” pieces of heat shrink down the cable, shrink 
them then pour epoxy in the top of the transducer around the cable. 

 

Dennis C. 

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 26, 2019, at 2:42 PM, Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Brian,

 

First, replacements are readily available. Look for the 43 mm transducer. If 
you can’t find one, contact me and I’ll find you one. 

 

Second, I leave mine out unless I’m sailing. 

 

Third, I spray mine with Corrosion Block. Probably doesn’t stay on long but it 
makes me feel like I did something. Any lightweight oil should work.

 

Dennis C. 

Touché 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 26, 2019, at 1:18 PM, nausetbeach--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

This year the boat speed paddlewheel on my Nexus Classic system seems to be 
binding.  I get 0 boat speed when motoring at 3-4 kts and it finally starts to 
read when the boat accelerates to 5-6 kts, but it shows the boat speed ~ 4 kts. 
 I pulled the paddlewheel and left it sitting in a cup of fresh water for 
several days to loosen any shrimp and other potential aquatic growth and then 
used a tooth bush on it to clean it. I can spin the paddlewheel by flicking my 
finger on it but still slows then stops much more quickly than it used to.  

 

I cannot see anything that might be binding the paddlewheel.  Any suggestions?  
Soak it in dilute white vinegar?  Spray McLube on it?  The unit / system is 
long time discontinued so  getting a replacement is not possible.  

 

TIA,

Brian

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-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

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Re: Stus-List Boat Speed Paddlewheel ?'s

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I have also been having issues with my speed transducer. I pulled the pin, 
cleaned the wheel, made sure the pin was straight, and I could flick it by hand 
and it would measure OK. Put it in the water, no good. Bought a new wheel, went 
through the same deal, got the same result. I cannot figure out why it will 
rotate freely in air, measuring accurately, and then won’t work at all when 
installed. New wheel, old wheel, new shaft, old shaft, no change.

 

Any ideas?

Gary 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2019 4:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Speed Paddlewheel ?'s

 

Hodges Marine has the Garmin GST 43 mm transducer for $122. The number on my 
spare is 010-04283-00. 

 

If you replace it, be sure and add stress relief to the cable where it exits 
the transducer. Slide a couple 2” pieces of heat shrink down the cable, shrink 
them then pour epoxy in the top of the transducer around the cable. 

 

Dennis C. 

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 26, 2019, at 2:42 PM, Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Brian,

 

First, replacements are readily available. Look for the 43 mm transducer. If 
you can’t find one, contact me and I’ll find you one. 

 

Second, I leave mine out unless I’m sailing. 

 

Third, I spray mine with Corrosion Block. Probably doesn’t stay on long but it 
makes me feel like I did something. Any lightweight oil should work.

 

Dennis C. 

Touché 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 26, 2019, at 1:18 PM, nausetbeach--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

This year the boat speed paddlewheel on my Nexus Classic system seems to be 
binding.  I get 0 boat speed when motoring at 3-4 kts and it finally starts to 
read when the boat accelerates to 5-6 kts, but it shows the boat speed ~ 4 kts. 
 I pulled the paddlewheel and left it sitting in a cup of fresh water for 
several days to loosen any shrimp and other potential aquatic growth and then 
used a tooth bush on it to clean it. I can spin the paddlewheel by flicking my 
finger on it but still slows then stops much more quickly than it used to.  

 

I cannot see anything that might be binding the paddlewheel.  Any suggestions?  
Soak it in dilute white vinegar?  Spray McLube on it?  The unit / system is 
long time discontinued so  getting a replacement is not possible.  

 

TIA,

Brian

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Log Canoe Race Photos

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Actually it is Main Trimmer. The three sails on a canoe are the jib, fore, and 
main, with the largest being the fore. You will also see a ‘kite’ which is 
launched off the top of the foremast and a staysail which is flown like a 
mizzen staysail on a yawl.

 

And, you’re right. Light weight is important. And most often, she sits on the 
stern pulpit, goes out there before the race starts and stays. You may notice 
on some of Joe’s pictures that there are some small boats where the main is 
trimmed by somebody more forward through a block at the aft end of the pulpit. 

The boat I was on used to squat badly and often she got a bath – when the water 
was cool, she wore foul weather bib overalls and taped the bib legs around her 
ankles to avoid getting a bath.

The races are usually about 2 hours long – they race at about 10 am to noon, go 
in for lunch, then go back out around 2. Two races on Saturday and one on 
Sunday is the norm. Almost every boat has a tender – you saw Midnight Lace 
which tows one of the North family boats ( #9 or 15 or 4) out and back (that 
was the black boat with the little sitting area in the bow). They have two 
other smaller boats for the others. 

 

And, each boat has a log bottom, even the newly built ones – CBMM built a small 
one a couple years ago and is finishing a 5 log one right now. It is about 33’ 
or so long, not counting the bowsprit (with the jib extending forward of that) 
and the pulpit. 

 

If anyone is interested, there’s a great book by John North II called 
Tradition, Speed and Grace which documents the boats, the history and has an 
impressive selection of pictures and prints of paintings of the canoes.  John’s 
family has been involved with canoes for about 80 years, and he is still the 
skipper of Island Bird – he’s in his ‘80’s.

 

Gary Nylander

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Richard Bush via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2019 11:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Log Canoe Race Photos

 

Looks to be the safest too!   What is the name for this person's job...Mizzen 
Trimmer?  I notice that most of the boats delegate this to a lighter type 
person, usually female...how does she get out there and does she stay there all 
day?

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River,Mile 584.4

Richard N. Bush 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Sent: Tue, Jul 16, 2019 11:07 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Log Canoe Race Photos

Best job on the boat!

http://www.cryc.org/CRYCandCRYCCLogCanoeRaces/cryc_logcanoe_dsc_5940.html

 

Joe

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2019 10:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Gary Nylander mailto:gnylan...@atlanticbb.net> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Log Canoe Race Photos

 

Most of the canoes still have most of their wood in the hulls, some have been 
sheathed in fiberglass, but they still flex. (there is often a bailer person 
keeping them dry). The one I was on leaked between some of the logs. Very high 
maintenance.

They have a handicap system, which uses the length, width at certain points, 
and so forth. Sail area is not counted, that is up to the braveness of the 
owner and crew. 

The number 9 boat in Joe’s pictures is a steady winner – the family which owns 
it has two others as well. There is no way they are casual – as there is only a 
centerboard (about 8 feet deep, pivoting, with a cord of two feet or so – no 
ballast in them), the hiking boards as shown (usually more of them – from two 
to four) are the ballast with crew scrambling out to steady the boats and then 
scrambling down, taking the boards out from under the gunwale and sliding them 
to the other side when they change course.

 

Most of them are not steady enough to stay upright when the masts are up 
(spruce, hollow, works of art) without having the boards laying across them. 
The masts are raised by hand – generally about a dozen people hauling them up – 
pivoting on the mast step. They are tender and fast! When they tip over, they 
must be disassembled and taken to shore or a dock and then reassembled for the 
next race. 

 

Awesome to watch and exciting to race upon.

 

Gary

 

 

From: Richard Bush [mailto:bushma...@aol.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2019 10:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Log Canoe Race Photos

 

Joe; fascinating photos...thank you ro sharing these; we certainly have nothing 
remotel

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Log Canoe Race Photos

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Most of the canoes still have most of their wood in the hulls, some have been 
sheathed in fiberglass, but they still flex. (there is often a bailer person 
keeping them dry). The one I was on leaked between some of the logs. Very high 
maintenance.

They have a handicap system, which uses the length, width at certain points, 
and so forth. Sail area is not counted, that is up to the braveness of the 
owner and crew. 

The number 9 boat in Joe’s pictures is a steady winner – the family which owns 
it has two others as well. There is no way they are casual – as there is only a 
centerboard (about 8 feet deep, pivoting, with a cord of two feet or so – no 
ballast in them), the hiking boards as shown (usually more of them – from two 
to four) are the ballast with crew scrambling out to steady the boats and then 
scrambling down, taking the boards out from under the gunwale and sliding them 
to the other side when they change course.

 

Most of them are not steady enough to stay upright when the masts are up 
(spruce, hollow, works of art) without having the boards laying across them. 
The masts are raised by hand – generally about a dozen people hauling them up – 
pivoting on the mast step. They are tender and fast! When they tip over, they 
must be disassembled and taken to shore or a dock and then reassembled for the 
next race. 

 

Awesome to watch and exciting to race upon.

 

Gary

 

 

From: Richard Bush [mailto:bushma...@aol.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2019 10:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Log Canoe Race Photos

 

Joe; fascinating photos...thank you ro sharing these; we certainly have nothing 
remotely close to that kind of racing around here...; are these boats used just 
for racing or are they used  for casual sailing etc.; They look to be high 
maintenance!  How are the races scored?  

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 584.4

 

Richard N. Bush 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Sent: Tue, Jul 16, 2019 8:55 am
Subject: Stus-List Log Canoe Race Photos

 

http://www.cryc.org/CRYCandCRYCCLogCanoeRaces/index.html 

 

 

OK this is the real link, no idea what happened to the last one???

 

10 hours is a very long day in a 13 foot Whaler, next time I am bringing better 
cushions!

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List Log Canoe Race Photos

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Great shots - I spent my first summer on the Chesapeake crewing on one of
these - if you think you have a sore fanny, try bouncing up and down the
boards. Looks like the breeze was a bit light. 

Gary Nylander
St. Michaels

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2019 7:57 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Log Canoe Race Photos

I spent all Saturday being a chase boat and photo boat for the log canoe
races on the Chester River.
http://www.cryc.org/CRYCandCRYCCLogCanoeRaces/index.html

10 hours is a very long day in a 13 foot Whaler, next time I am bringing
better cushions!
Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List Hanging Zinc

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The C I race on has one which is connected while at dock – to the shrouds, 
which I assume are connected to the grounding system. My C is seldom 
connected to shore power and is run for about half an hour a week (out to the 
race course and back), so I don’t use one. 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 9, 2019 9:58 AM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List Hanging Zinc

 

Listers,

 

Every once in a while, I come across a boat with a submerged zinc hanging from 
a wire off the stern of a boat. Some people swear by them and others think it’s 
a wasted effort. 

 

What does the group think? Is it worthwhile to add (especially when on shore 
power) and, if so, where do you connect it on the boat? 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Captain of the Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 








 






 

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Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

+3. Have had it for about 20 years, still working great – Guido made properly 
shaped brackets for me as well.

Gary

St. Michaels

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Rick Brass via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2019 11:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

 

+2 on the Garhauer rigid vang. 

 

I have one on each of my boats…. Getting rid of the verdamte topping lift is 
such a wonderful thing, and the Garhauer vang is such a bargain. Guido made 
custom brackets for the mast base and boom for each of the vangs – included in 
the price. The one on the 25 was bought about 1996 and the one on the 38 about 
2004. 

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

It depends on your sail configuration. You said you have a light number 1. We 
have an all-purpose no.1 and a rather large no.2, and a “working jib” as our 
number 3, which we seldom use here on the Chesapeake. So, if it is blowing, we 
will start with the number 2 and a reef (only have one). On downwind legs we 
may shake the reef out, but I only remember a couple of times we have changed 
to the 3 as it is only about 105% or so, whereas the 2 is 135 or 140 or so. 
This year, we have had 3 races where we have sailed with the 2/reef/shake out 
configuration and we won 2 of them. Maybe would have won the other, but an 
eager crew removed the reef line when we shook it out and we were not brave 
enough to try to put it back in, and ended up flogging the (full) main for 
about half the race. But that is on a 30-1 which is stout! We did have a couple 
times when we tested my window caulking, and we enjoyed watching some of the 
more tender boats in the fleet dunking their sails.

 

Gary

St. Michaels MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2019 4:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

 

That sure seems to be true and I wonder why???  Are we just being too cautious 
when we start with a no.2 or when we drop to the no.3?  Or is there really no 
need ever for a no. 2?

Although cloth density might make a difference if our no. 1 is really for light 
air.

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL

 

 

On Tuesday, June 18, 2019, 03:29:55 PM CDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

 

 

For those of us race and change sails, one of my racer buddies told me you 
never change down from a #1 to a #2. You always drop to your #3. In my years 
racing since he told me that, I’ve come to agree with him. 

You might start with a #2 but you rarely change down to one. 

Dennis C. 
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Your spinnaker is just a small bit larger than mine – less than a foot longer 
in the foot and a few feet taller. That is possible to handle with two folks on 
the foredeck – end for end jibing and a 13 foot pole. On the 30-1, our pole is 
13 ½ feet and our hoist is 39 whereas yours is 44. We have been doing 
end-for-end and using a single set of sheets for over 25 years with success.

 

We do have a set of twings – the lines are run through blocks on the rail at 
the widest point and run back to cam cleats/blocks near the cockpit. We use 
them all the time, pull them tight when jibing, letting the ‘sheet’ end loose 
and keeping the pole end tight. We are not very brave and do not do serious 
reaching with the chute because it is full and high shouldered – would like to 
have a smaller, flatter, chute for reaching, but that just adds complexity for 
our short races. The 30-1 is very stout, I don’t know how tender the 33 is.

 

I have crewed on a number of boats with sheets/guys and dipping and I find our 
way is much simpler – and not so prone to mistakes. But I’ve crewed on J-80’s 
and find a sprit and asym easiest of all. The 115 I will be on tonight with an 
extra long pole is most difficult to get right.

 

Keep it simple and you will find it enjoyable.

Gary Nylander

St. Michaels MD 

30-1 Penniless

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2019 4:17 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker

 

 

I believe that regardless of method (end-for-end or dip jibe) the consensus is 
that the baby stay is best disconnected and stowed at/on the mast collar.

 

I've always been an end-for-end foredeck crew but that was on someone else's 
boat.  With just 2 spin-lines (1 guy and 1 sheet) it kept the setup simple.  We 
had twing blocks but only set them as an after though and most of the time not 
even then.  The downhaul was usually effective enough unless we were forced to 
be on really deep down wind runs for a long time.  The helmsman and tactician 
knew this was a slow point of sail so they avoided that point of sail.

 

I've learned from this list that the end-for-end is typically good for boats up 
to 35-ish feet.  Much over that and the pressures involved with such a large 
pole and kite become difficult for even the biggest of crew to manage.

 

On Wed, Jun 12, 2019, 3:23 PM Tom Lynch via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

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Re: Stus-List SAIL TRACK MISSING PART

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Or drill a hole into the mast from the aft side, through the sail track, and 
tap it for a ¼ x 20 stainless bolt. Works well.

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 9, 2019 2:07 PM
To: C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List SAIL TRACK MISSING PART

 

If you have a slot in the mast extrusion, you can drill a hole through from 
port to starboard, and insert a clevis pin. It's easily replaceable if you lose 
it, and it's only a couple of dollars.

 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

On Sun, Jun 9, 2019 at 10:40 AM Sam Salter via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Those are called “Mast Gates”!

Do a search, there are a few sites that sell them.

I think Binnacle Marine also sell them.

 

Sam Salter

C 26  Liquorice 

Ghost Lake  Alberta


On Jun 9, 2019, at 11:13 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Same here. 2 pieces each side of track  that screw inro mast close the track. I 
did find a piece shown on board so not sure if its original method. 

John

John Conklin 

S/V Halcyon

www.flirtingwithfire.net 

 

 


On Jun 9, 2019, at 12:10 PM, Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

My 33-2 has a simple screw on plate that closes a widening of the sail track. 
If I lost mine I’d make another out of a piece of aluminum. 

 

Dave

Sent from my iPhone


On Jun 9, 2019, at 5:38 AM, Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> > wrote:

There are a couple different types of track stop.  You have to know what type 
of track cross section you have.  Round, flat, or tides marine (strong track) 
all come to mind.  Round and flat can be found at most chandleries. 

 

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/davis-instruments--sail-track-stops--P002_068_001_505
 

 

 

For the strong track system you'll need to contact tide marine. 

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

 

On Sat, Jun 8, 2019, 11:58 PM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hello: 

 

1985 C 33-2.  I misplaced the part on the mast that holds the sail slides in 
the mast track.  Does anyone know where i can get a replacement?  

 

Ray Macklin

LakeHouse

Milwaukee WI.

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On Sat, Jun 8, 2019, 11:58 PM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hello: 

 

1985 C 33-2.  I misplaced the part on the mast that holds the sail slides in 
the mast track.  Does anyone know where i can get a replacement?  

 

Ray Macklin

LakeHouse

Milwaukee WI.

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Re: Stus-List Used Nexus Instruments

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I’m interested. Don’t need the wind – mine is working. Would not mind the extra 
propeller. My speed sensor is also a bit wonky, but would like to try another, 
need displays, have computer, don’t need depth. 

 

Sounds like we may have a fit. What are you asking? How many displays?

 

Gary Nylander

gnylan...@atlanticbb.net  

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of ed vanderkruk via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 4, 2019 3:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: ed vanderkruk 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Used Nexus Instruments

 

I have a full set of Nexus Classic just replaced with B Wind transducer is 
not working. Speed was a bit wonky but think the paddle wheel was sticky. 
Classic computer. 

 

Autonav autopilot computer and head.

 

Nexus ferro compass.

 

Including a new-in-box spare depth transducer. 

 

Ed Vanderkruk 

 

Toronto, Ontario 

 

On Tue., Jun. 4, 2019, 11:13 a.m. Rod Stright via CnC-List, 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Anyone out there have any used Nexus instruments they have replaced and no 
longer need that could be used for spares for a good working system.  You can 
pm me at strig...@eastlink.ca   to avoid bothering 
others on the site.

 

Thanks

Rod

Halifax

 


  _  


  

This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
www.avast.com   





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Re: Stus-List Yanmar SB8 shut off

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

On mine, definitely not. Ignition off just turns off the warning lights and the 
tach. 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Otf Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2019 11:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar SB8 shut off

 

When you turn the ignition off, does it activate a solenoid that shuts the fuel 
off?

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [  
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2019 10:57 AM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar SB8 shut off

 

I am very familiar with the gm/hm/ym/qm series engines... Not so much with the 
SB8 series.

 

That being said, whatever actuation method is employed, it is best for the fuel 
to be shut off to kill the engine.  If there is a fuel solenoid - fine.  If 
there is a throttle actuator that goes below idle - fine.  Ultimately you want 
the engine to be starved of diesel fuel.  What you don't want is to regularly 
kill the engine by obstructing the air or eliminating the compression.  These 
methods allow fuel to collect and linger on the cylinders after shutdown.

 

Check your engine to see what is being activated to shut it down.  If it is 
fuel related then you're probably fine leaving it as is. 

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

On Wed, May 1, 2019, 10:43 AM Chris Graham via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi Listers!

 

Probably a dumb question but in my research I have encountered a variety of 
opinions about shutting down the SB8. 

 

The previous owner had disconnected the kill switch and just used the ignition 
to shut the engine down. I have always used the kill switch on all my diesels 
and this concerned me. Any opinions out there on this subject? Should I 
reconnect the cable or is it fine to just use the ignition to turn the engine 
off? Any concerns about doing damage to the engine or electronics using this 
method?

 

Thanks so much! Approaching launch date but still some projects to complete!

 

Chris Graham

1978 C 26'

Papillon

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Re: Stus-List C as offshore boat?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

We have owned our 30-1 for 25 years now, and, as our sailing dreams have 
changed, it still seems to answer the need. A couple more feet would not be a 
bad thing. A divorce in everything but boat ownership and the ex-Admiral still 
drives “her boat” with her new husband and some of the old crew on Wednesday 
nights and I drive “mine” at other times, do a little cruising and some weekend 
racing. 

 

I’ve been watching your thought process with interest. I think, if you are 
comfortable with the concept of the 35II, I don’t see as much downside as 
others seem to see. It is a very good, stout, well sailing boat with some 
extras – maybe too many.

 

I would think that the engine issue with its complications may be a turn-off 
for many, but I don’t see why, with your skills, that a couple days stripping 
the extras out (water maker, extra batteries, and other items) you could get it 
down to a ‘normal’ boat. Then you have a garage full of stuff which may be 
handy in the future. When our hot water heater rusted into a pile, it came out, 
as we found our cruising to various places with marinas was more to our liking 
than camping out. You don’t know right now what you may end up doing with the 
boat in the future. Long distance cruising? Offshore? I would think that you 
need to spend some time developing your sailing skills and interests, then you 
can do more intelligent planning for future endeavors.

 

Just a contrary opinion.

Gary 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2019 10:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C as offshore boat?

 

Thanks for all the great replies. Interesting about the 30-1 setup for 
offshore. There is one in Victoria selling for $55K (for almost a year now) 
that the owner put over 50K into, but never left due to health issues. 

re: the hull-deck joint. This is one reason I was looking at Ericsons for 
months, as their glassed over joint is said to be very strong and leakproof 
(outward facing flange, with inside glassed over). I was hoping to take this 35 
into some big waves to test the joint for leakage, but the owner wasn't game 
for it. There is a hose at the slip, so I might try spraying it if I get a 
chance.

 

Still pondering things tonight. Thanks everyone!

 

 

On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 6:03 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Interesting discussion - thanks Shawn for launching it.

 

Last October at Emerald Bay, Catalina Island I moored a chartered Catalina 390 
next to C 30 MK I hull #493, “Katherine Patricia,” hailing port Berkeley, CA. 
 I spoke with her owner Alexander Simpson, who is not on this mail list as far 
as I know, but is on the C owners’ Facebook group.  He said he’d sailed her 
from the West Coast to Hawaii and back.  We didn’t discuss what kind of 
conditions he encountered.  But he did say that in preparation he’d resealed 
the deck / hull joint (with 5200, which made me wonder if that’s the right 
material for that job).  His boat was also set up with a self-steering wind 
vane and an asymmetrical spinnaker.

 

I’ve also seen a couple 35-40’ C in marinas at Harbor Island, San Diego, but 
have no idea if or where those boats have sailed.  Maybe down Mexico way.

 

As for Grenadine, the worst conditions I’ve been in were 48mph gusts at 
Chatfield Reservoir. We saw it coming and doused the headsail before getting 
hit, but had to motor head-to-wind into the shadow of the dam to douse the main 
safely, then motored to the marina and took two tries to get into the slip.  
Sea state is not that big an issue on my lake.  So all that doesn’t really 
apply to your question.  But having said that, I chartered a Bali 4.5 cat in 
the BVI a few weeks ago.  We had some 25kt days, with 6’ wind waves, and 
another day with a 5’ east swell, and I would have loved to sail Grenadine down 
there.  I’m sure she would have handled it just fine, and loved it.  Didn’t 
happen to see any C on that trip, and not for lack of looking.

 

Josh I’d be interested in that article you referred to, if you can find it.

 

Cheers,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C 30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO





On Apr 24, 2019, at 5:05 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

1I saw a C in Uruguay.  It's hailing port was in Delaware.  So there is that.

 

My experience and my the reports from others is that C are generally well 
built, strong boats.  That being said, "Are the good blue water boats?"  I 
would suggest no.  They typically have less tankage than other similar sized 
boats.  They often have fin keels that create a flat spot forward of the keel.  
This can result in a pretty good pounding with the right wave height and 
frequency.  Most of them were catering to the racer-cruiser an as a result tend 
to carry a bit more sail for the racer but as a cruiser often had shorter than 
appropriate keels.  

 

Many people have blue 

Re: Stus-List 'Kedging anchor' for ICW

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Our system, when running into mud in Georgia, (on a 36 foot motorsailor with
Sheel Keel), was to drop the dinghy, take a main halyard and small anchor,
take it way out sideways to stabilize the boat, and then wait 5 hours for
the tide to go out and come back up. Boat got way over, undamaged, and when
afloat again, we merrily continued on our way. The fat Sheel Keel does NOT
lend itself to being powered backwards, even with about 80 hp and a 23 inch
prop.

I managed to bury a Bermuda 40 about 100 yards from its dock after a race
here on the Miles River while being "guest skipper". The board was up and it
took all the tricks - heel, weight forward, crew hanging on boom, windless
with anchor, and motor. Still didn't work. A curious guy in a 20 foot power
boat came by and we talked him into taking our anchor way out. Then, all the
other tricks did actually work. 

On the Chesapeake, if you haven't run aground, you have been faking it.
Gary
St. Michaels MD

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2019 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 'Kedging anchor' for ICW

Our ICW system worked as follows:

1. Run aground

2. Everyone off the boat, swim around and find the deep water.

3. Everyone back on and all but one sit on the boom.

4. Swing the boom out, heel over, and head towards area found in step 2.

Joe

Coquina

C 35 MK I


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Stus-List Rudder rebuild

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

As I mentioned the other day, a friend rebuilt his Jeanneau rudder. I now
have a bunch of pictures of the process in case anyone wants a blow-by-blow.
I must say, as I didn't see it after he took it home for the task, just how
rotten it was. I don't know that any of the C rudders are made up of
layered plywood fastened to a backbone, but this example was mush...

Email me if you are interested, I don't want the burden the list with the
horror show.

gnylan...@atlanticbb.net
Gary


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Re: Stus-List Replacing a CnC 44 Rudder

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

A good buddy of mine rebuilt his Jeanneau rudder – it came out great! It is now 
a year old and just went back in the water for the season. I’ll try to get some 
pictures.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dan via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2019 12:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing a CnC 44 Rudder

 

Thanks everyone,

I've looked into both Foss Foam and Competition Composites. Both options are 
landing well into the $5000 cdn range (including freight) which is way beyond 
my budget. Foss Foam doesn't have a C Rudder mold but can try to "match" 
something similar which scares me a little and it's roughliey $1200 US to get 
it to Canada. Competition has a very expensive high-tech process using CAD 
software and a milling machine which I'm sure is standard for any Americas Cup 
contender but drives the price as expected.

 

 

Has anyone tried to re-build their own rudder? - I've been told carving 15lb 
density rigid foam and encapuslating is the way to go - like this:

http://boatprojects.blogspot.com/2011/07/rudder-rebuild.html

 

Dan

 

 

On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 9:00 AM Rod Stright via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I would suggest Competition Composites in Ontario excellent 
workmanship,Canadian 

Rod

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 18, 2019, at 4:38 PM, Dan via CnC-List   > wrote:
> 
> Has any C owners on the list replaced their rudder, and if so, where did 
> you have the work done? - The price is dramatically reduced if they have an 
> existing mold to work with.
> 
> Dan Cormier
> Breakaweigh
> C
> Halifax, NS
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Re: Stus-List Depth Transducer Installation

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The hull down toward the keel is solid. I have my depth transducer in the
compartment under the forward dinette seat, near the mast. Also speed.

Gary

#593

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Morris via
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2019 11:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
Subject: Stus-List Depth Transducer Installation

 

I'm installing a new thru-hull depth transducer on our 1975 C 30 Mk1,
which requires cutting a hole for it. Dumb question I'm sure, but is the
hull cored or solid? Any suggestions on where to locate the transducer on
this model?

 

 

David J. Morris, MBA
President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
427 Division Street, Kingston, ON Canada K7K 4A8
Tel. 613-531-4429
email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com  
Member: Professional Writers Association of Canada 
Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/

 

 


 
 

Virus-free.
 www.avast.com 

 

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Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I use a wick – yes it becomes pretty ugly after a while. For most of our boats, 
the toe rails are in two pieces – each around 15 feet long (on my 30 at least). 
There is a seam where they meet, but it is not at the lowest place on the deck. 
A piece of unused halyard or sheet laid in the low spot and then run through 
one of the holes in the rail will wick almost all the water out. Dennis’ 
webbing is more elegant.

 

After having part of my rail off the boat, I don’t see why you could not put a 
hole in the rail – above the flat part to let the excess water out.

 

Gary Nylander - 30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2019 9:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

 

Wow, that is interesting about the saw cut on the deck. I will have to inspect 
the photo I took; it sure looked amateurish to me. I would sooner cut a notch 
in the glass below the toe rail, then epoxy it smooth both inside and outside 
to allow water to drain under the rail. I've seen some boats where this is part 
of the deck/hull mold. The wick idea also sounds reasonable, except it will 
become a green slimy worm after a while if not cleaned... :)

 

On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 2:36 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

On my friend's C Mk.1 there is a joint in the Toe Rail extrusion as two 
different toe rails are used.  The two different Toe Rails are identical except 
the forward section has twice as many of the holes in the side per foot to clip 
snatch block, etc. to.  That joint isn't what you're seeing is it?  It seems to 
me on my friend's Mk.1 there is that same saw cut that nicks the deck and the 
hull deck joint edge, almost like they cut the Toe Rail on the boat wile 
assembling it.

 

Have another look.

 

Ken H.

 

On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 at 17:22, Shawn Wright via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something quite alarming: it appears 
that in an effort to allow drainage off the decks, someone decided to cut a 
small section of the toerail out, about 1/4" wide, using a hacksaw or recip. 
saw. I could see where the saw blade nicked the deck slightly below, and it 
also exposed the hull-deck joint edge. 

 

While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and quite a difficult hack to 
reverse (I think the toerails are continuous), it also got me wondering how 
others have solved this problem. In our wet climate, allowing water to pool 
promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was the reason for this ugly hack 
job. I suppose one could hide it by attaching a short section of toe rail or 
similar material on top of the cut, while still allowing water to drain.

 

-- 

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com  

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-- 

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com  

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Re: Stus-List Downwind sailing- Whisker pole length and height

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Check your local rules – some areas (ours for one) only allow the pole to be 
extended out to the J measurement (forestay to mast). That may restrict you 
from the optimum sail shape.

 

Gary 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Knecht via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2019 12:42 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Downwind sailing- Whisker pole length and height

 

We race non-spinnaker class and a few years ago I got an extendable whisker 
pole for the genoa.  I am unsure about optimal settings for pole height and 
length.   I suspect it is sometimes suboptimal because I have noticed some 
boats able to carry the genoa poled out at much closer angles than I have 
achieved.  Presumably the optimal pole angle is near perpendicular to the 
apparent wind.  It seems that extending the pole flattens the sail to some 
extent but I suspect it is more complicated than that.  Height I have no idea.  
Any general rules of thumb?

 

 Related to this, the VMG chart I have from C  has optimal VMG downwind 
apparent angle of about 140-145° true.  Are those numbers +spinnaker, 
-spinnaker standard or -spinnaker wing on wing with whisker pole?  Thanks- Dave

   

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I have a simple bail about 2/3 way back on the boom. I clip a line on that
and run it forward to a snap shackle on the rail then back to a cleat on the
top/side of the cabin. 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2019 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer

 

Mine goes form mid-boom to the toerail. I have never seen an end-boom
preventer.

I also have a boom brake device I need to rig up one of these days. It does
not prevent a gybe, it just makes it sloow

Joe

Coquina

 

On 3/16/2019 11:51 AM, Neil Andersen via CnC-List wrote:

My Gybe preventer is simply a soft Vang taken to the toe rail.

 

Works great and doesn't require any special rigging.

 

Neil Andersen

1982 C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

Neil Andersen

20691 Jamieson Rd

Rock Hall, MD 21661

 

  _  

From: CnC-List  
 on behalf of David Knecht via CnC-List
 
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2019 11:44 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer 

 

I have been thinking aobut rigging a preventer on my boat so re-read this
old discussion of how people rig them. End boom attachment sounds
preferable, but does that have to run outside the shrouds?  If so, then you
would have to rig it before letting the main out while you can stlill get to
the end of the boom.  Then, how do you gybe when you want to?   

 

  I have a single reef point on my new main, so I have an extra internal
boom line and sheave  from the second reef setup that exits at the rear of
the boom.  I am thinking that if i put a long enough line with a snap
shackle at the end where it exits the boom, I could use that as a preventer.
Before letting the main out downwind, you would grab the shackle and run it
forward to the toe rail near the bow and clip it in and then have control
from the stopper on the cabin top.   Thoughts?  Dave 

PS- No expectation of offshore/big waves racing in my future so this is a
cruising/club racing solution

 





 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 





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Re: Stus-List Sea Hawk Bottom Paint

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I tried the SR version of Hydrocoat after using the normal version for years. 
That year it didn’t work in the middle of the Chesapeake. I went back to normal 
and it was better. It appears the special versions of some of these paints are 
very good in certain conditions – only.

 

I was happy with ‘regular’ last year and will try again this year – never know.

Gary Nylander

St. Michaels MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Jerome Tauber via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 8:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sea Hawk Bottom Paint

 

There is an anti slime version of Hydracoat. More expensive. PETTIT PAINT 
Hydrocoat SR Dual-Biocide Ablative Antifouling Paint. Hydrocoat SR takes the 
proven formula of Hydrocoat and adds the slime inhibitor Irgarol for effective 
prevention of tough hard and soft growth. Jerry 


Specifications:Aluminum Safe:  Not Aluminum SafeAnti-Slime Additive:  Irgarol


Sent from my iPhone


On Mar 10, 2019, at 8:28 PM, Mark Baldridge via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

The PO of our boat used SeaHawk in Mobile Bay. It looked great at the survey 
after 2-ish years.

I'm now in North Carolina in the Pamlico River. Had SeaHawk Biocop TF blue put 
on May 2017. I had the boat pulled last week to install a a PYI dripless 
stuffing box and cutlass bearing and the bottom still looks great. I've cleaned 
it in the water only 3 or 4 times (using scuba) and I've had a short pull and 
pressure wash twice in almost to two years. I'm in brackish water and in a 
creek that doesn't get a lot of current. Highly recommend it!

Mark Baldridge 
~~_/) 
'89 C/40+ "The Edge" 
Surf City, NC 

On 3/10/2019 6:43 PM, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List wrote:

I’m curious to see the responses as well.  Last year was my first with ablative 
bottom paint and I used TotalBoat Underdog.  Great reviews, but my experience 
in the Chesapeake Bay was that I had to be hauled and pressure washed by late 
summer, because I couldn’t get the engine above an idle.   The barnacle growth 
was complete coverage of the prop and about 3” thick algae forest on the hull 
with heavy barnacle growth under it.  I know last year was bad for growth on 
the bay, but I have to find something better this year.  

 

From: John and Maryann Read [mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 12:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Stus-List Sea Hawk Bottom Paint

 

Am searching for a better water based ablative multi season bottom paint.  Moor 
in a river with salt tidal water so there is a constant water movement.  
Temperature ranges from 55 in early spring to 70 in late August.  Have used 
Pettit Hydrocoat SR with less than satisfactory results – much slime.  Came 
across SeaHawk which by its claims looks promising.  Anyone have experience??

 

https://www.bottompaintstore.com/boat-bottom-paint-c-13523.html/boat-bottom-paint-water-based-bottom-paint-c-13523_14116.html/monterey-self-polishing-solvent-free-bottom-paint-p-9484.html

 

TIA

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 





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Re: Stus-List Mast Wire Question

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Beats me, my 1980 version has nothing like that. Just wiring to the wind
instrument and VHF antenna at the top. Lower down, there's wiring for the
steaming light/deck light combination.

 

Gary

30-1 #593

St. Michaels

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Steven A. Demore
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 11:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steven A. Demore 
Subject: Stus-List Mast Wire Question

 

I have the mast of my C 30 MK1 down for rebuild right now.  Just replaced
the wiring and found a cable I'm not sure about.  It is a heavy gauge
stranded single conductor wire, maybe 1/8 or 3/16, with a thick red
insulation on it.  If I had to guess, a heavy ground wire.  There is about
20 feet of cable coiled at the base of the mast and it goes all the way to
the top of the mast, where it just sticks out 6 or 12 inches.

Did these boats have lightning rods or something originally?  Is there
something that a big ground wire would do that a 45 foot hunk of aluminum
wouldn't do?  I'm afraid to ask this one, as it is probably a religious
argument, but should the mast (or a lightning rod??) be grounded to a keel
bolt or something?  If there is supposed to be a lightning rod, does anybody
have a picture of one and how it is mounted?

 

Thanks,
Steve

 

SV Doin' It Right
1973 C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

 

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Re: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I have six oak wedges and two stainless straps on my 30-1. I've seen some
ads for some hard rubber or plastic wedges which look interesting, but have
had only one oak one break in 25 years, so... The comment about Spartite or
some other system to fix the mast at the partners contradicts the idea that
you use the little plywood shims at the base of the mast to control mast
rake. My boat has four of those, they were split, two in front of the mast,
two behind, and for more rake I now have one in front and the other three
aft.

 

Not a big issue, just renew your wiring and remount.

 

Gary

#593

 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Steven A. Demore
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2019 9:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steven A. Demore 
Subject: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

 

I had my C 30 MK1 dismasted yesterday to do some work on it.  The boat
came with no wedges in the deck collar, so I made some one day, just to get
through summer.  While taking down the mast yesterday, I asked the rigger
what kind of wedges it should have.  He said he wasn't sure whether C
came with wedges, or a metal spacer.  Does anybody know what the factory
used to support the mast through the deck?

Also, while I am at it. Any suggestions on anything I should be checking on
the mast?  I'm replacing the wiring, going to LED lights, replacing all of
the running rigging, new blocks and sheaves, and checking out the step.  The
boom has the internal blocks and wire for tensioning the foot of the main,
but I don't know whether that is accessible for maintenance or not.

 

One last thing.  I was planning to mount steps (the triangular aluminum
ones) on the sides of the mast.  The rigger recommended against it because
of the number of holes in the mast.  Anybody have thought on whether a
series of small holes (1/8, 3/16??) would weaken the mast?

Thanks,

Steve

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Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My emergency tiller is a silver colored metal tube about 2 feet long - about
1 1/2 inch diameter and has an angled flat part on one end - about 45
degrees off. The angled part is about 5/8 inch thick, has a square cut into
it and a slot on one side where a bolt goes through which tightens that part
around the square end of the rudder post which sticks out under your feet
while you are standing at the wheel.

In my view it is of limited usefulness. First it is so short and at a funny
angle. The only thing I could see it use for is to hold the rudder steady in
one place, there is not enough swing room to do any worthwhile steering.

It should be obvious when compared to all the other 'boat stuff' you have.

Gary Nylander
#593

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of T Smyth via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 10:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T Smyth 
Subject: Stus-List Emergency Tiller

My new (to me) C 30 MK1 (1976) has a location under the wheel apparently
for an emergency tiller.
I am trying to identify the emergency tiller among the many items that came
with the boat.
Could someone post a picture of the appropriate emergency tiller for a C
30 of that vintage (1976)?
Instructions for use would be nice as well; I have not found discussion of
this topic on the archives or in manuals.
Just planning...

Thanks!

Tom
C 30 MK 1 (!976)
Shangri-La
Augusta (GA) Sailing Club


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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

David is saying the truth…. There was a Swan which was crunched on some rocks 
on a jetty down south a number of years ago. The owner got the check after he 
knew how much repairs were going to be. The yard stripped the boat (it had a 
big hole in the side and had nearly sunk) of everything! Engine, all 
electrical, tanks, etc… Built a new boat into the hull – (after just a few 
hours in the water, they found corrosion in the wiring 10-15 feet away from any 
damage – it spreads like fire!). He ended up with a great “brand new” boat 
which matched his excellent set of sails and other rigging. And re-designed to 
make it better than new. But…. Great craftsmanship, knowledgeable owner and 
yard, and a year’s worth of work.

 

This one appears to have been damaged so long ago that the basic shell of the 
boat is compromised, as well as all the rest of the systems. Pretty, but a lot 
of bondo!

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 6, 2018 9:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David davidrisc...@msn.com  

 


Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

 

Richard...you are numerically right.  But I would not rebuild a waterlogged 
boat.   Those water issues, like in a semi-flooded and thereafter "fixed" car, 
seem to forever migrate and show up years later.  As has happened, most likely, 
in the instant case.

 

Apparently it could not have happened to a nicer guy...

 

David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  

(401) 419-4650 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of Richard Bush via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Thursday, December 6, 2018 8:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Richard Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!] 

 

 

If it needs approx. $50k in repairs, wouldn't that make the sale price seems 
about right?the new owner would have about $85-90K in the boat?

Richard

s/v Bushmakr4: 1984 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;

 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: John Conklin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: John Conklin mailto:jconk...@hotmail.com> >
Sent: Thu, Dec 6, 2018 8:19 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

Yes, I’ll say, way too low! 

Curious what The survey findings were  that caused this “drastic reduction” ? 

I’ll Trade em straight up for my 37 :)

John Conklin  

S/V Halcyon 


On Dec 5, 2018, at 3:08 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I ran across this listing.  WIll someone please buy this boat to get it off the 
market.  It is listed way too low and is ruining thew 37+ values!

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/c-c-37-40-3169741/ 

  

Tom B

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com 

  



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Re: Stus-List Mast step repair

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I did much the same as Dennis on my 30-1. I used some very strong plastic stuff 
(3/4” sheet, doubled for the three crossmembers) from McMaster-Carr to replace 
the stringers which spanned the gap in the bilge. I filled the rest with epoxy 
so that water would not sit in the lowest part of the bilge, which was right 
under the mast. Now, I can empty the bilge or sponge it out with ease. After 
the year of sailing every week, no change in the rig.

 

Good luck, the worst part is the sawdust/fiberglass dust which comes from the 
cleanup process, the rest is relatively easy. Good mask and good vacuum.

 

Gary

30-1

Maryland, out of the water yesterday.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2018 8:13 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast step repair

 

Jim,

 

The most critical thing is to measure everything before you start.  Granted, 
the step has subsided so you need to account for that.  Measure against a known 
reference point.

 

Next, make sure you understand and make accommodation for drainage from the 
fore section of the boat.  This may be as simple as laying a short piece of PVC 
pipe in the bilge before you start the job.  Also consider any cable runs under 
the step, if any.

 

Consider where you are going to transmit the load.  The "shoulders" of the 
bilge should be fairly strong.  The shoulders are where the hull turns downward 
to the bilge.

 

Other than those two considerations, wing it!  

 

You may be able to use a car jack and 2x4's to lift the cabin roof and remove 
the compression post will you do the work.

 

When I rebuilt Touche's mast step in 2000, Here's the steps I took.

 

*   Cleaned out all the old rotted wood from the original step
*   Sanded the shoulders to reveal clean fiberglass
*   Cut a piece of cardboard for the floor leaving a nice gap for drainage 
and cables
*   Formed more cardboard for the fore and aft ends
*   Laid in multiple layers of epoxy glass spanning between the shoulders 
of the bilge until it reached the proper elevation

Here's pics:

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WK_x9fw5BbqbNJN1UoduAQ68AJ2UuUcu

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sxolf_U_8EDzVeLUUYghorYhe4h_nLaP

 

Note the marks denoting locations.  The top of the epoxy glass block can be 
seen between the step box and the lip of the sole.

 

Pretty much a brute force solution.  That block of epoxy glass will last 
millenia.  

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Wed, Nov 21, 2018 at 6:25 PM James Hesketh via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Thanks for the reply Neil

 

My 26 is a bit more complicated -- the mast itself is stepped on the cabin top 
with a king post extending down to the support in the bilge, It's the support 
that has failed. I'm referring to that support as the mast step in this case as 
it is where the load is concentrated. 

 

Due to the warping of the "step" the cabin top and bulkheads have deformed by a 
half-inch or so and will need to be reshaped.

 

As you say, the cabin sole covers the outboard sections of the that spans over 
the keel at the turn of the bilge. I'm planing on cutting out those sections of 
the sole for access and room to glass in the new support.

 

Guess I'll figure it out as I go.

 

Thanks again,

 

Jim Hesketh

'78 C 26

Coconut Grove, FL

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I got mine from an outfit in New Jersey. Cheaper than Amazon, but I had to pay 
shipping. Ended up about the same. Keep the little guys in business.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Richard Bush via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2018 11:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

 

Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily 
available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
Thanks 

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;

 

Richard N. Bush 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: coltrek--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: colt...@verizon.net   mailto:colt...@verizon.net> >
Sent: Thu, Nov 15, 2018 11:39 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have 
fabricated  stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them that 
I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years ago my 
buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my suggestion, and 
within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different place. At which point 
he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I removed my own steel tank 
several years ago, that was not leaking, and replaced it with a plastic tank.
My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an aluminum 
tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't look back.  
The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than the cost of a 
new plastic tank.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie PA

  _  


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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Went from leaky aluminum to slightly smaller Moeller plastic. I’m pleased.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Edward Levert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2018 12:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edward Levert 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

 

Richard:

 

Measure your existing tank. Then check the Moeller web site for a compatible 
plastic tank. USCG approved. Ordered from Amazon. Fit like a glove.

 

Ed Levert 

C 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans

Sent from my iPhone


On Nov 15, 2018, at 10:57 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily 
available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
Thanks 

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;

 

Richard N. Bush 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

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Re: Stus-List List of 30-1s

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Penniless is 1980 and hull #593

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2016 3:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Re: Stus-List List of 30-1s

 

Wild Cheri was built in 4/73 and is hull number 166.

Ron

STL

 

 

  _  

From: Nate Flesness via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com  " 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Cc: Nate Flesness mailto:nateflesn...@gmail.com> >
Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2016 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List List of 30-1s

 

Sarah Jean (1980 30-1) is hull number 602.

 

Nate

 

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Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the keel!

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I volunteer for one such organization. The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum 
accepts donated boats all year. We sell some via our advertising. We hold a 
huge auction each Labor Day. This year there were about 125 boats. What a donor 
gets is: we take immediate possession of the boat, move it to our location 
(that’s where I come in) and when we sell it, you get a donation document for 
what we got. You cannot just ‘guess’ at the value, to be legal, it has to be 
what it actually moves for.

 

I’ll come over to the western shore and sail/motor it over here – have done it 
many times.

 

Gary Nylander

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 3:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the 
keel!

 

If it’s an IRS-qualified 501(c)(3), yes.  There are organizations out there 
that are set up to accept donated boats and cars specifically for tax deduction 
purposes.  They sell them for whatever they can get and use the proceeds for 
charitable purposes.  I would think you could donate this boat for about a 
$7,500 – $10,000 tax donation, depending on the condition.  On the other hand, 
some people prefer the cash. 

 

From: Steve Staten via CnC-List   

Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:59 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Steve Staten   

Subject: Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the 
keel!

 

So…wouldn’t the donation of a great, much-appreciated boat to a veterans 
sailing camp be tax deductible? Seriously?

 

Steve Staten

C’Est La Vie, 26

Langley, OK 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List


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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Years ago, while returning some distance from a regatta, my engine decided
to stop. I started it up and found it would run at about 1/2 throttle.
Motored that way for 45 miles. Took the Racor primary fuel filter apart and
I was shocked that any fuel could have gone through at all! Solid black.

Replace the filters, both primary and secondary. Try again.
Gary
30-1


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of DON JONSSON via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON 
Subject: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.
Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few
times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being
configured correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty
fuel as had been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could
stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.  

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2
inch?) hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see
the bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.
If you swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and
moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine
running well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In
fact I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only
has 500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both
claimed by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?  

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




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Re: Stus-List Swimming Pool Cover Pump

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

You may also want to check out small fountain pumps. I bought one at Lowe’s. I 
use it to pump out a low spot on my walk way where water somehow finds its way 
into the basement. Time to dig up the concrete, but this is a good interim.

 

Gary

St. Michaels MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 8, 2018 3:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Swimming Pool Cover Pump

 

I just ordered these, but there are dozens to pick from.  Most are kind of big 
for pumping a few quarts of water.

 

 

 
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Wave-Dredger-Ground-Winter/dp/B00FWOHJFS?SubscriptionId=AKIAJ2WSQIQLDL22FHMA=swimunive-20=xm2=2025=165953=B00FWOHJFS

 

 

 

 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ENTUEGE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8=1

 

neither have particularly good reviews, and look cheap, but they looks small 
enough to fit, and low enough to get most of the water.

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [  
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2018 2:28 PM
To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Swimming Pool Cover Pump

 

Bill, can you send a link or the name of the pump? Thanks

 

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596

 

Richard N. Bush

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List <  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <  cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Bill Coleman <  colt...@verizon.net>
Sent: Thu, Nov 8, 2018 2:21 pm
Subject: Stus-List Swimming Pool Cover Pump

Has anyone ever used one of these to suck out that last ¼” of water from the 
bilge?

I am thinking specifically of removing Mast Water from the bilge during the 
winter,  Altho it might be handy  during the season. My bilge now has a rule 
1500 which works fine as long as you have at least 3” of water.

 

I ordered a couple cheapies, but wondered if anyone has actually gone through 
this drill and has had success.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

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Re: Stus-List Folding Propeller

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I am still very happy with my Flex-o-fold 2 blade prop after over 15 years. I 
replaced a non-geared prop because I was sick of having to open the hatch and 
set the shaft to a horizontal position when racing. I got better performance in 
forward and much better in reverse.

 

They were great to work with and gave accurate advice about diameter and pitch.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 6, 2018 2:26 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding Propeller

 

Consider J-prop and max-prop.  I have a 3 blade max-prop and it works as good 
in forward as it does in reverse.  No complaints.  The only real disadvantage 
is that it is a feathering prop... So underwater obstructions may not slide off 
like they can on a folder like a gori.  Initial cost seems high and refurbish 
costs seem about the same as the cost for new j-prop.  IIRC, Ken Heaton has a 
j-prop and as I recall I found myself envious of his setup.

 

The max-prop does have the ability to adjust the pitch which means fine tuning 
and matching to many different boats and engines is possible.  The setup on the 
max prop is a bit more time consuming, messy, and (on the old versions) 
impossible to do by a diver underwater.  I think one of the other manufacturers 
has a more automatic and less involved setup.

 

I would suggest that you ensure any folding prop options be geared.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

On Nov 6, 2018 12:45 PM, "Wade Glew via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

May I please request some input and advice from list members re purchasing a 
folding propeller?

 

I have a Yanmar 20GM20F with constant rating of 16 HP at 3400 RPM

Gear Ratio is 2, 62

current prop is Michegan sailor fixed blade 16 RH 10

 

On Contacting FlexoFold they have recommended:  " a 2-blade 16X11R propeller 
for your C 33 MK II sailboat."

 

GORI, on the other hand, have recommended:  "  15" x 12 x 2-blade RH – or 15" x 
12 x 3-blade RH (at twice the cost)

 

the cost of the FlexoFold and Gori 2 blade folding props are approximately the 
same after shipping etc (about $1200 USD)

I don't know if I need a 3 blade prop and the cost is substantially higher.

 

I would appreciate any opinions

 

Wade

Oh Boy 33 MK II

 

 

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