Stus-List Re: C 35 Mk 2 available

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

David,

If you are looking to donate it, SailMaine https://www.sailmaine.org/ in
Portland could be interested in a donation https://www.sailmaine.org/. They
have a great kids sailing program and use adult sailing memberships on keel
boats to fund it. I race on their J/22 fleet and volunteer at Sail Maine.
They just added a J/35 to their fleet this summer so they might be
interested in another boat in that size range - I am not sure. Reach out on
the website or you can contact Ben Lewis  who is their
adult program coordinator. What condition is your boat in and how is she
equipped? Is she in reasonable operating condition to be able to sail her
safely up to Maine? If so and if you want to donate her I can put a crew
together to sail her up in late June (earliest time that works in my
schedule) - you can let Ben know that I am offering to do that.

Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C KCB
Portland ME

~~~
Nathan Post
+1 (781)  605-8671
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: Mast step fun

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

It is where the stainless steel tube that supports the table on mounts into
it.

Nathan
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: Mast step fun

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

That does sound like a challenging project Matt. Interesting that your mast
step bent - my casting cracked in two around the keel bolt.  However I
don't have the stringer setup you do - it looks like it is just solid
fiberglass with filler under the mast on my 34.

Not the same part but I just designed a replacement mast step for my C 34
and had it machined from 6061 T6 aluminum by xometry. Photo of finished
part: https://photos.app.goo.gl/8GVyzAsBASdW8MuP7  It was about $700
including shipping (made in the US) which wasn't too bad as a one-off.  The
design is here in on-shape if anyone wants to copy it:
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/06778e11eadafc92b785b709/w/b7bc0fda88594aa1bd5a947b/e/dbcde4431b1a8f7be673194e


It is based closely on the original casting dimensions but designed so that
it will not collect water anywhere. I figure out of 6061 it will be
stronger than the original casting (which had cracked) and should last
another 40+ years if I bed it properly with filled epoxy so that it doesn't
have large bending loads applied.

Nathan

~~~
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C KCB
Portland ME
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Standing Rigging

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Joe,
It is a bit of a challenge to find a rigger who will do it  but you should
be able to find someone who will inspect and re-head the original rod
rigging  (North east rigging systems in MA did mine 4 years ago
https://www.nerigging.com/). The rods will generally form cracks and fail
at the ends where they are cold forged into a ball - thus cutting them
slightly shorter and reheading should be nearly as good as new rods
(fatigue of the rod itself is probably minimal). That is what I did and
only one upper and the forestay which was wire and damaged anyway had to be
replaced. That being said, it is probably only marginally cheaper than
replacing it with cable rigging, not sure - in 2020 it came out to about
$13000  to rehead the standing rigging including a new roller furler, new
turnbuckles and other components, new custom SS mast through threaded rods
(you end up breaking the old aluminum ones to get them out). However, I did
keep the rod rigging which has both weight and stiffness advantages. Of
course you could get all new rod but that is even more $$$.  You might be a
bit far for North East Rigging Systems to travel in MD - but maybe give
Kevin a call as he might know someone in your area who does that type of
work.

Nathan
S/V Wisper
C 34 KCB
Portland ME

On Mon, Apr 15, 2024 at 8:00 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I so need to move – that would probably cost $25,000 around here!
>
> Also I found out the rigging shops I called for a survey on that C 40 I
> looked at would all fail the rigging without even seeing it due to age even
> if it looked brand new. They were pretty sure they couldn’t do a proper
> look without doing enough damage to make replacement needed after the
> survey even if it wasn’t before ☹
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* cenelson--- via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, April 14, 2024 9:02 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* sai...@comcast.net; cenel...@aol.com
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Standing Rigging
>
>
>
> I replaced it on my 1995 36 XL/kcb a few years ago. IIRC, total material
> and labor and shipping was about $7000.
>
>
>
> This included the rigging and removal of old and installation of new.
>
>
>
>
>
> Charlie Nelson
>
> Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
> 
>
>
>
> On Sunday, April 14, 2024, 8:29 AM, sail51--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have recent experience with replacing standing rigging on a
> C 40 or 41 that could provide a rough estimate of cost to do and how was
> cost broken down between materials and installation?
>
>
>
> Thks
>
>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Winch Sealant suggestions

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Agree with everyone on butyl tape.  Also I suggest countersinking the holes
slightly to give a small shoulder area where the butyl can sit around the
boat.  Put the bolts through the base of the winch and wrap them with a
small rolled snake of tape right where they come through.  You can also put
a layer of tape on the entire bottom but it probably isn't needed and as
others have mentioned watch out for any drain holes.

With the butyl tape, you need to come back several times over at least a
few days and tighten the bolts further as it relaxes and flows into place.
Then trim the excess that comes out around the outside before putting the
top of the winch on.

Note, not all butyl tapes are created equal. As has been recommended by
many on this list, bed-it butyl tape is what I have been the happiest with:
https://bed-it.com/?gad_source=1=CjwKCAjw8diwBhAbEiwA7i_sJfsZj1Ga-q3dJepvUm9eG958mdXQ3BBk-yhNqhTZT0OAmtG8fOke1xoCytoQAvD_BwE

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
C 34 KCB
Portland ME
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stu

Stus-List Re: 36-1 Stuffing Box Access.

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hi John,

Why did your yard want to cut the shaft to install the PYI shaft seal? That
doesn't make any sense to me. It might be hard to get the coupling off but
if that is the case then you can cut off the coupling leaving the shaft
reusable (be sure to cut the coupler where the key is located in the shaft
so you don't cut into the shaft itself) and then you just need have a new
coupling machined to fit your shaft. I put a PYI on my C 34 and am very
happy with the results!  Not sure on the 36 but on my 34 the shaft is
offset so it fits past the rudder without pulling the rudder - I don't even
need to remove the folding prop off the shaft. PYI does recommend replacing
the bellows every 5 years and I am due for that so it is on the agenda for
this year.  It also does need some adjustment initially to get the
compression right but once that is set, I didn't need to touch it for 5
years (until 3 of my engine mounts failed this summer - engine shifted
forward when in gear and resulted in water coming in while motoring but
that wasn't really the PYI's fault.

Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34 KCB
Portland ME
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Hints on swapping winches?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hello Dean,

Not sure you need to add an additional backing plate unless you are
putting  the winch somewhere that there wasn't one before. There is a thick
solid plywood core where the primary winches are mounted on my 1981
C and they don't put a backing plate under it in the factory.  I
replaced the primary winches in 2020.  I did use fender washers on the
winch bolts to spread out the load.

How you repair the previous holes might play a role in choosing to put a
piece of G10 under and of course adding a backing plate isn't going to hurt
anything. I did go a little beyond just filling the holes - I started
filling the holes by
1 drilling the hole out a little bigger in order to create a clean surface
to bond to.
2 Grinding a tapered area into the glass at the top to enable me to lay in
a piece of glass fabric on top
3 with masking tape covering the bottom of the hole, put in a little
unthickened epoxy to coat the outside of the hole followed by
thickened epoxy using microfibers or similar.
4 follow with several layers of glass and epoxy at the top
once it cures, sand flush and use filler if needed to fill any remaining
low spots before painting.
This might be overkill but gave me confidence that I was restoring the skin
strength.

Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34 KCB
Portland ME

On Fri, Mar 22, 2024 at 8:26 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Don’t use plywood. Aluminum or G10.
>
> Joel
>
>
>
> On Fri, Mar 22, 2024 at 8:24 PM Dean McNeill via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm about to finally replace my old 2 speed Barient 25 primary winches on
>> my C 34, with Harken 46 Self tailing winches.
>> Anyone have experience doing a similar swap? I fully expect I’ll need to
>> fill old holes and drill new ones. And probably glass in aluminum or
>> plywood backing plates.
>>
>> Any other hints and tips?
>>
>> Thanks, Dean
>> BarraWind
>> 1980 C 34
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C 35 mk3 shaft line questions

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

When I did this on my 34 I wasn't able to pull off the old coupler and had
to cut it off with a grinder. I replaced it with a split coupler that was
machined to fit the shaft but was relatively easy to get on before
tightening the bolts that clamp it to the shaft. Definitely recommend the
spilt  type coupler if you get a replacement made.

On Sat, Feb 3, 2024, 19:49 Riley Anderson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Keith,
>
> You are not overthinking this. You are correct that the coupler is a
> designed interference fit. When I repowered our 38-2 I had a new coupler to
> install, but getting it on the shaft was not possible with the tools I had.
> You'd need a sledge hammer on the engine side and someone holding an anvil
> against the prop. I opted to reuse the old coupler out of necessity. The
> old one had a keyway and two 7/16" set screws. Not ideal but we now have
> 400 hours of motoring on it and have had no issues. I actually tried to
> take it off last winter to check the packing material and it was so tight I
> would've needed to remove the engine and use a puller to get it off. If
> you're really worried about it, drill out your small set screws and tap
> larger ones. You can put a lot clamping force on a 7/16" set screw.
>
>  Cheers,
>
> Riley
>
> On Sat, Feb 3, 2024, 9:22 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Gotta do the same project.
>>
>> I think you are over thinking this.  The OD of the hose is irrelevant.
>> The OD of the cutless bearing needs to be measured as struts can vary
>> between models and years.  Best to get the cutless bearing that fits the
>> strut, and that may need to be measured to get that right.
>>
>> I look forward to the replies.
>>
>> Chuck S
>>
>>
>>
>> On 02/03/2024 8:51 PM EST keith morgenstern via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hey folks, I'm hoping the C community will help me out.
>>
>> Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard.
>>
>> Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the
>> cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the
>> length is 4", but what is the OD??
>>
>> Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between
>> the shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to
>> remove the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem
>> (i've heard) is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so
>> that it has a nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really
>> hard, but once you get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer
>> a very good interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only
>> thing transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws,
>> rather than the nice "hug" of an interference fit.
>> Q1: is this a real thing?
>> Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems?
>>
>> Thanks a bunch!!
>>
>> -Keith M
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>>
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Hand rail replacement- sources

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Peter,

I replaced the teak rails with stainless steel with three attachment
points which Kato Marine https://www.katomarine.com/about.htm  in 2020.
They made custom length for me and shipped so it was pretty easy.  They
also make a great tieoff point for a lanyard when going up to the mast if I
don't have jack lines rigged and it gets a bit rough on a day sail. I had
them put the mounting points at the lengths required for the teak rail
although there are fewer so that they would align with some of the existing
the holes at each end and in the middle.  I fiberglassed over the other
holes during a full deck refit and repaint that I did at the same time. If
you aren't doing that then you could probably just put a bolt and washer
through the old holes you don't need with some bed-it tape to seal it. Love
the stainless steel and it is no maintenance. While the stainless steel was
built straight, it was flexible enough to bend to match the deck curve as I
installed it. Some say it gets hot in the sun but at least here in NE I
haven't had a problem with it getting too hot to touch.

Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34

On Wed, Nov 29, 2023 at 8:28 PM Peter W. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Anyone had any experience to share regarding the replacement of hand rails?
> I am looking for two(2) 6-loop hand rails for my 30MKII.
> I found several web sites, but I am not familiar with any of vendors.
> Also, from the (lack of) info, I can’t determine if the loops will match
> up with the existing holes in the deck.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pete W.
> Siren Song
> ‘90 C 30MKII
> Irvington, Va.
> Sent from my iPad
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C spreader cracked

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Yep, definitely not something we want to have fail catastrophically while
sailing!
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stus-List Re: C spreader cracked

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hello Matthew and all,

Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, looks like Rigrite might be able to do
this as well but from their website it isn't at all clear what you need to
order.

I reached out to both Holland Marine and Klacko Spars as well as Mass
Marine Parts (no response from  Mass Marine Parts by phone or e-mail -
maybe gone for the holidays?).  Holland actually forwarded my request to
Klacko https://www.klackospars.com/contact.html as well and Klacko got
right back to me and said I can send the spreaders to them and they will
repair or worse case replace with a new set for $700 worst case. So I plan
on going forward with that approach.

Nathan

Nathan Post

SV Wisper

C 34 1981

Portland ME
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stus-List C spreader cracked

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hello all,
My rigger found a crack in the spreader on my 1981 C 34 when they
took down the rig this fall.  It is a longitudinal crack on the leading
edge of the aluminum profile where it attaches to the mast several inches
long.  Welding is a possibility, but I am wondering if sourcing a
replacement is possible. Does anyone know of a source or by chance have a
lead on a used one from a rig that was parted out?
Thanks,
Nathan

~~~
Nathan Post
SV Wisper
C 34 1981
Portland ME
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stus-List Re: chain plate rebed ahead

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I second using Butyl tape - particularly the Bed-it brand. Not sure exactly
what your chain plates look like. I resealed my chainplates on my 34 with
bed-it in 2020 following recoring the deck in that region and haven't had
any leaking since. I suggest making an angled (e.g. 45 deg) cut in the
fiberglass around the chain plate on the top of the deck if there isn't one
already so that the bed it tape will have some thickness between the
fiberglass and the chain plate. Clean the surfaces with acetone or alcohol.
Roll a bead of tape and push it in as hard as you can - and add enough so
it is sticking up a bit. Then press down the little plate that holds that
in place (with a single layer of bedit tape under it) and screw in place
gently.  Come back and tighten the screws slowly over the course of a few
days so that the tape has time to flow.  Clean up excess tape around the
outside using a sharp knife to cut it around the edge of the metal plate.
Nathan
1981 C
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hi Jeff,

I replaced my primaries on my 34 with Anderson ST 50 winches in 2000. They
seem sized correctly to me - I certainly wouldn't go smaller. They work
fine for hauling in my 135 Genoa fully loaded up but it is about all a
typical crew can handle by themselves. If I was to do it again, I would pay
the extra for Lewmar Ocean winches of equivalent size or maybe even one
size up instead.

Nathan

~~~
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn, MA (currently in Rockport ME)
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stus-List Re: Dual output solar controller

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I am in the process of figuring out adding solar to my two bank setup
(start battery + house batteries) and have  been looking at this one:
https://www.renogy.com/dcc50s-12v-50a-dc-dc-on-board-battery-charger-with-mppt/
as a possibility. However, it is relatively expensive and doesn't include
monitoring or bluetooth connectivity without additional devices. I think I
might go to go with a Victron controller instead and just charge the house
batteries with solar but haven't decided for sure. Would be interested if
anyone has experience with the renology dc-dc mppt charge controller.  One
nice thing about it is that it will not load down the alternator so much
the way the bluesea relay suddenly connects the house and starter batteries
shortly after the engine starts.  Second advantage is supporting a mixed
bank if I upgrade the house batteries to lithium at some point.

Nathan

~~~
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper C 34CB
Portland ME


On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 1:57 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I put in a Morningstar Sunsaver Duo (
> https://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-duo/) paired with a 50W
> panel many years ago and it has worked perfectly ever since.  Keeps my 2
> batteries topped up while the boat is at the mooring.  I got the one with
> the separate output meter, which has proved useful in debugging charging
> issues.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Jun 17, 2023, at 1:08 PM, Peter W. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I am looking for feedback on dual output controllers.
>
> I want to add a battery bank to my existing setup, but I have a single
> controller now.  It’s a Renogy Rover 20A and has worked fine; however, they
> don’t offer a dual output controller currently.
> Thanks in advance for your help!
> Pete W.
> Siren Song
> ‘90 C 30-2
> Irvington, Va.
>
> Sent from my iPad
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List looking for delivery crew May 4-7

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hello all,

I am planning on sailing my C Wisper from Beverly MA to Rockport ME May
4-7 and could use an additional crew member or two to help stand watches
and steer (sorry no autopilot) Currently it is me and one other sailor
friend who lives in Rockport ME. Plan is to launch the boat in Danversport
MA on May 4, spend the night in Beverly on the boat and leave early Friday
morning May 5. If weather conditions are good, we will sail straight
across the Gulf of Maine arriving Saturday evening. Otherwise, if
conditions are less certain, we will stay along the coast possibly stopping
in Portsmouth and Portland areas and arriving Sunday evening.

Please respond to me off-list at nathan8...@gmail.com if you are interested
with a bit of your background and I can provide more info as well.

Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Bomar hatch refurb update

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

McMastercarr also sells smaller pieces of acrylic sheet with gray tint.
This is what I used for my Bomar hatch on the bow of my C 34:
https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/129/4052/8505K731
I matched the original thickness. Rough cut with table saw and then shape
to match with a router and a flush trim profile bit against the original
once it is removed.

Nathan

On Sun, Mar 26, 2023 at 2:51 PM David Swensen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dave and Chuck,
> Thank you for your replies. I will give Annapolis and hatchmasters a call.
> I finally found 3/8 cast in 2074 in Californis.  I wanted the 3/8 for the
> same reason - people stepping on it.  The shipping is half the price of the
> sheet, so hopefully I can find it on the east coast.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> David
>
> On Sun, Mar 26, 2023 at 2:30 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> wrote:
>
>> Hey David,
>> I used a company called Annapolis Maritime Plastics to make new cast
>> acrylic panels for my windows several years ago.  They are a little pricey
>> but do quality work and do what the say.   Cost me $1000 to make all my
>> side windows to template in 1/4" thick 2074.  Limosene dark.  I more
>> recently had the cabintop slider and window pane made and that cost me $500
>> for 3/8" thick 2074.  Thicker because people stand on it.  The company used
>> to have a large storefront for years but lost people during COVID and was
>> taken over by a guy who works out of his home workshop.
>>
>> I would highly recommend them for their work, but you might find a better
>> bargain, elsewhere.
>>
>> https://maritimefabrication.com/
>> 410-263-4424
>>
>> Dave S does some beautiful work, but considering all the time and money,
>> I'd buy new hatches and upgrade to one of the newer style, lower profile,
>> venting models.  New frame, new hardware, new hinges, new lever locks,
>> etc.  But that's just my two cents.
>>
>> Chuck S
>>
>>
>>
>> On 03/26/2023 6:29 AM David Swensen via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Dave, Where did you source your 3/8 acrylic? Is it cast and is it 2074?
>> Thanks,
>> David Swensen
>> Freya 35MK3
>> Beverly, MA
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Mar 25, 2023, at 9:11 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/hatch-refurbishment.html?m=1
>>
>> Dave - 33-2
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>>
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>>
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Bed it Butyl Tape

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Thanks for the heads up Roy! So glad that this is in stock and available
again. Definitely the best bedding compound out there!
~~~
Nathan Post
C S/V Wisper


On Wed, Mar 22, 2023 at 7:38 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That's great news, you ordered Bed-It.  Please let us know when it
> actually arrives.
>
> Thanks, Chuck S
>
>
> On 03/22/2023 6:11 PM Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> Awhile back there was a list discussion  on where to buy Bed-it Butyl Tape.
>
> As mentioned at that time, sailboatowners.com has worked with Rod to get
> it made again after Rod had a stroke.
>
> They now have it in stock and ships in 1 business day.
>
> 4 rolls for me and my marina buddies are inbound.  I was getting worried
> that their stock would arrive in time for spring !
>
> https://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?55717
>
>
> Cheers
> Roy
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C 34 aluminum plates on bulkhead

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Later model 34's (1981) don't have deck scuppers and drains as described -
unfortunately, that means that you get a puddle behind the aluminum toe
rail. A piece of cotton wick does a reasonable job wicking it over the side
but it isn't ideal.


On Tue, Jan 31, 2023 at 3:21 PM Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> One other item.  I don’t know if this was changed in later model years,
> but on the 1978 model the deck had a scupper drains near the toe rail that
> discharged through thru-hull fittings just below the gunwale.  It was quite
> elaborate to move the water just a few inches away.  Make sure the fittings
> and hoses are in good shape.  On my boat, one was located in the
> compartment behind the electric panel.  What a dumb place to put deck water
> fittings.
>
>
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C 34 aluminum plates on bulkhead

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Re my bow mod - overall, yes I am happy with it. It was a challenge to come
up with a good solution given the limited space and integration with the
forestay and bow chocks (which are now 6" further aft). Drawings are in
onshape if you want to duplicate it or base a new design off of it:
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/87319ac0373461e07d9c3465/w/8092d805cb5db461fce8cc09/e/94229b4df81f5f30af53d096
It wasn't cheep to have one off manufactured and anodized (~$2900 in
2020).  It didn't end up fitting perfectly but as each boat is probably a
little different some shims or adjustments are likely par for the course.
Having an anchor roller is very nice!  I would go with the Ronca or
standard Mantus M1 rather than a Mantus M2 if I was to do it again - I was
concerned about the metal loop on top interfering, but I don't think it
actually would be an issue.

The asym tack point works ok and I can jibe it inside but the angle of the
plate (very short bowsprit) isn't ideal as the load is vertical and I just
continued the bow angle up. I ended up adding a high strength screw eye for
the tack block and it isn't far enough forward to clear the pulpit for a
top-down furler which is a shame - using a sock is challenging when it is
windy.  A true bowsprit that extends out several feet straight
forward would be significantly better. I could potentially attach one on
the opposite side from the anchor with a brace further back on the deck.  I
intentionally didn't want to make the boat longer than ~34' as the marina
fees would increase. Probably some sort of retractable bowsprit would be
the way to go (along the lines of what Sailing Uma did).

Nathan
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C 34 aluminum plates on bulkhead

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hello Mack,
I have a 1981 C 34 and those outboard vertical plates on the bulkheads
are stainless steel, not aluminum. I would be very skeptical if any of
those components have been replaced with aluminum.  These components attach
the deck to the bulkheads since to save cost (and allow the molded head
liner) the bulkheads were not tabbed in to the deck. I haven't had leaks
there on my boat at the point you describe (my genoa tracks seem well
sealed).  However, the windows are hard to seal and might be leaking and so
it is also possible that is where the water is coming from and then
dripping down to the bulkhead (I would say that is in fact a likely source
of water in that area). Of course also check that the bulkhead isn't
rotted. The plates on top of the metal poles close to the main traveler
also are a problematic leak point (for me on the starboard side a little
water drips down the inside of that tube and ends up under the stove). I
would agree that if the bulkhead is rotted beyond repair and needs to be
replaced that might be a deal breaker.

Regardless you definitely want to check the whole deck for soft spots -
around the head vent, chain plates and penetrations for the bulkhead
attachments were the main problems on my boat (where I replaced the core in
2020 - see https://photos.app.goo.gl/8W4AdgmKqKxARvsY7 if you are curious
about what I did).  All repairable but good to know what you are getting
into as it is a big project (I also glassed a lot of old holes that weren't
needed and rebedded almost all the deck hardware, replaced the fixed
windows, rebuilt the forward hatch, and added a bow roller and asym tack
point
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN46y4vVixlceiv3AjB6UPNMGJqgTuuwxos4pobHlp1XsBQnteV-IcwYMBlBfcjXw?key=aTVDcEFMX3dzVFVSeFZVY256WWs5bkYtSlpWM2hR
as part of the project).

Feel free to reach out if you have other questions on the boat.
Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34 KCB
Portland ME



On Tue, Jan 31, 2023 at 1:33 PM Mack McKinney via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi everyone!
>
> I'm seriously considering purchasing a 1980 C 34. I have yet to make
> an in-person inspection, as the boat is 4 hours away, but in pictures I
> notice attached to the partial bulkheads which separate the settees from
> the galley/nav area there are what appear to be chainplates.  Those
> aluminum plates are rather far aft for any standing rigging.  Their
> purpose, I reckon, is to reinforce the genoa track (correct me if I'm
> way off, and these are distinguished from the aluminum tubes which, I
> suppose, reinforce the mainsheet traveler.  So, here's my question:
> there is noticeable water incursion, as there is some streaking on the
> port bulkhead below the "chainplate." I assume I need to be prepared for
> deck core rot, and possible rot in the teak plywood of the bulkhead. The
> extent of any rot, if it requires the replacement of that bulkhead, may
> be a deal-breaker.  Thoughts? Am I on the right track?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mack
> Formerly C 30-104
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Conduit Size for C 30 Mark 1 ?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

If you have internal halyards then you will need to leave clearance at the
halyard exits (and near the top of the mast to make sure the halyards will
not chafe on the end of the conduit (good idea to smooth/round the top of
the conduit before you stick it in.  Also the conduit has to fit past the
compression tubes where the stays attach.  I think I used 1-1/2 in the back
to the top of the mast and 1-1/4 in the front to the spreaders when I did
my mast on my 34'  With larger size coax and conductors it does fill up
pretty quick and the pop rivets I used leave a pin sticking into the
conduit space so it is a good idea to go larger if you can within reason.
I am pretty sure that more than 1-1/2 wouldn't have worked well with my
internal halyards as some of them exit toward the back of the mast. It can
be a real challenge to rivet it in place.  I ended up having to drill two
holes a few inches apart along the mast next to each other and used a self
tapping screw to temporarily pull the conduit to the side of the mast
before riveting the other.  Then remove the screw and put in a second rivet.

Nathan
S/V Wisper
C 34

Stus-List Re: C 34 Winch replacement

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I replaced the winches on my 34 with Andersen 2 Speed 50ST Full Stainless
Self-Tailing Winches two years ago. It did require filling the holes and
redrilling.  As this was part of a deck repaint with all hardware off, I
ground out fiberglass in a taper around each hole, filled the hole in the
plywood with thickened epoxy and layed in new glass and epoxy on top to
make a strong repair.  Finally sand and fill as required to smooth out the
top before repainting and then drilling installing the new winches.

The Anderson 50ST size is very nice and fits the boat well.  If I was to do
it again, I would probably go with Lewmar instead (not sure which size is
equivalent but you could look that up) - I thought that the Anderson all
stainless design would be nice, but the lines actually don't release very
smoothly under load if you want to ease a sheet. It tends to stick and then
release suddenly. The high end Lewmar winches are likely worth the price
difference for smoother operation.

Nathan

~~~
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
C 34 CB
Lynn, MA

Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets catch on shrouds

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I found that the luggage tag approach (attached at the middle of a long
continuous sheet) works well for me.  Of course that is only helpful if you
don't do headsail changes frequently or at all.  If you have eye splices in
your sheets you could try luggage tagging each of them to the clew if the
grommet in the sail is large enough to do that.

Nathan


On Fri, Jun 17, 2022 at 8:46 AM Matthew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Thanks, Josh.  The photo shows a soft shackle tied to a genny sheet with a
> bowline (or what appears to be a bowline).  How does this configuration
> solve the problem of the bowline getting hung up on stays when tacking a
> 150 genny?
>
>
>
> *From:* Josh via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, June 17, 2022 1:44 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Josh 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets catch on shrouds
>
>
>
>
> https://stingysailor.com/2015/06/27/diy-soft-shackles-for-quick-and-easy-headsail-changes-2/
>
> The alpine butterfly is the single best improvement for me.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1980 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> Jun 16, 2022 13:32:30 David Knecht via CnC-List :
>
> What have people found to be the best way to keep the genoa sheet
> attachment from catching on the shrouds during a tack?  I use a dyneema
> soft shackle to attach the sheets to the clew, but that has not solved the
> problem over knots.  Thanks- Dave
>
>
>
> S/V Aries
>
> 1990 C 34+
>
> New London, CT
>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Winch replacement

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hi Dean,

I went with Anderson 50ST winches for the replacement primaries on my C
34.  I like the size which is physically similar in diameter to the
original Barients and they make winching in the genoa a lot easier than the
old tired non-self-tailing Barients.  I don't remember how the sizing
compares to the Lewmars but you can compare the specs. I would probably go
with the higher end Lewmars if I was to do it again, but the Anderson's are
fine. Note, the bolt pattern was not the same as the Barrient and I filled
and glassed in the old holes and redrilled to install the new winch / it
was part of a bigger refit fixing lots of holes and repainting the entire
deck so that wasn't a big issue for me.

Not sure regarding Canadian sources.  I ordered mine from Defender and they
shipped directly from the factory in 2020 - I believe Defender does ship to
Canada if you want.

Nathan Post
S.V. Wisper
1981 C 34 CB
Lynn MA USA

Stus-List Re: Stanchion feet

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

John, I was able to buy some in 2020  (type A match the original for my
1981) from South Shore Yachts in Canada (they ship to the US and shipping
wasn't very expensive).  Their online website store doesn't work well but
you can also always call them if you have trouble with the website.

Nathan

~~~
Nathan Post
SV Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn MA

On Tue, Jan 18, 2022 at 1:13 PM John Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Am in process of repairing bow pulpit after it tried to make friends with
> Mr. Piling.  May need new feet (Klacko type A or C)  Can list advise who
> may have them?
>
> TIA
>
> John Read
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rudder issues

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hi Brian,

There are differing views on wet rudders.  Mine fills up with seawater over
the season - the first few seasons I drilled a hole near the bottom and let
it drain while hauled out for the winter (don't want it to freeze and
break the rudder).  Each spring I filled the hole, sanded, barrier coat and
paint.  A year ago I installed threaded bronze fitting so that I can plug
it with a set screw instead of drilling and patching each year.  My guess
is a previous owner on your boat was doing something similar, exploring
your rudder for water and perhaps poorly or not at all repairing the holes
afterwards.  Depending on how you use the boat (e.g. offshore vs. coastal
cruising) and where, getting it rebuilt may be a good idea or might be
unnecessary - e.g. is getting help and a tow reasonable if it was to fail?
The main concern would be if it is still structurally sound or if the metal
components are too corroded and could fail at some point which is hard to
tell without opening it up and rebuilding it. There are lots of
different opinions on how likely a problem is but nearly all older boats
have wet rudders it seems and they don't appear to fail very often on the
C at least as far as I know.

Nathan
S/V Wisper
Lynn MA
1981 C 34 CB
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: What's this thingy?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I have one on my 34 - I believe that it is there to help keep lines
(lobster pot etc.) from potentially getting jammed between the hull and the
rudder.
Happy holidays!
Nathan
S/V Wisper
C 34
Lynn MA


On Thu, Dec 23, 2021, 11:11 Brian Davis via CnC-List 
wrote:

>
> Good day C'ers,
>
> Wishing all a very merry Christmas!
>
> What's the little stainless steel rod about 2" long that come out of the
> bottom of the hull just a few inches forward of the rudder?
>
> Regards,
> Brian
>
> 1980 Landfall 38SL
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 12 volt DC power supply

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I suggest getting an older style computer adapter (pre-USB C).  They are
usually 50 or 60 Watts and sometimes 12 volt (24V versions are also
available).  For example, we used this one:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/108-ADP-66CRBE
to supply power for a small heating pad control system at work.
You will need a 120V computer power cord such as:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/552-AC30UNA-R
and you might want get a mating 2.5 mm DC connector for the other end (or
you can just cut the cable and strip the wires):
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/490-PJ-005B

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
C 34 CB
Lynn, MA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: GelCoat Color Matching and Cracked Mast Step

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hi Todd,

I have a 1981 C 34 with the same crack in the mast step that you have on
your boat. I have sailed it that way for a few years now. As the mast step
is in compression I haven't seen this crack as a critical issue or
a priority to fix seeing as the primary load on it is compression downward
into the hull. (I only found out about it a year ago when we had the mast
out for the first time but I suspect it has been this way for a long time
from before we bought the boat in 2018 as it isn't very obvious with the
mast and floor installed). I am jealous of your indoor storage but as my
boat is stored outdoors and I have a mast-up cover, I don't pull the mast
every year. While I will probably fix or modify it at some point it doesn't
seem to be a big deal right now.  Having a new custom mast step fabricated
will get somewhat expensive for sure. Obviously the real question is why it
cracks on these boats in the first place and that is probably worth
investigating so if you do pull it out I would be curious what you find
underneath it.

Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn MA


On Fri, Oct 22, 2021 at 5:50 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Replace it please  with a strong component. The mast step is very
> important on a sailboat.
>
> On Fri, Oct 22, 2021 at 12:38 PM Todd Williams via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Well, yesterday, the boat was hauled out for the winter... time to get
>> busy before winter sets in for Upstate NY. We had a great summer of sailing
>> on our new to us 1980 C which we named Indigo Out We Go.
>>
>> 1 - There are some chips in the gelcoat, especially around the perimeter
>> of the transom. What is the best way to go about color matching my
>> beautiful blue gelcoat? Is this a factory color that I can reference by
>> name or number at a marine supply store and get tinted? (See Photos for
>> nice blue color)
>>
>> 2 - I bought Indigo with a cracked mast step plate. We sailed all summer
>> with it, even up to 25+ knot gusts. I see no evidence of movement. I called
>> an aluminum welder and he told me it would be tough to adequately reconnect
>> the plate without knowing the alloy and grinding down the plate so the
>> keelbolt doesn't crack it again (not sure if that is the original cause).
>> Should I be concerned with this crack? Where am I likely to find a
>> replacement part? (See Photos)
>>
>> PHOTOS - https://photos.app.goo.gl/XNxxNMUeBmkdUkyHA
>>
>> Thanks for the information on various threads all summer, I have learned
>> a lot!
>>
>> TODD
>> Sodus Bay, NY
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bow Repair

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hi Brian,

My C bow fitting replacement is shown in photos here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Sd5YJg8rJ5GwGZ8M7
I got the general concept from the Johanna Rose blog
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2018/06/stemhead-replacement.html but
wanted to keep it lighter (using aluminum rather than stainless steel) and
needed to design around the different features of the C bow.
It is designed to use a Mantis roller and I extended the bow a little to
provide a tack point for the asymmetrical spin.  I created the design
myself in Onshape
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/87319ac0373461e07d9c3465/w/8092d805cb5db461fce8cc09/e/94229b4df81f5f30af53d096
using measurements and a wood moc up and then had Xometry build it for me
including welding and heavy duty black anodizing.  It didn't fit perfectly
and I had to add a stainless steel spacer in front of it so some small
adjustments to the design might be a good idea if you are going to have
another one fabricated.

Since I designed the bottom to be flat for easier fabrication, I had to
fill the deck with thickened epoxy to create a flat mounting surface.  I
was concerned about the added bending moments from the anchor so I extended
it back about 8 inches compared to the original and cut the toe rails
accordingly.  That also gave me room to move the chalks back behind the
forward pulpit legs. I also added an additional 1/4" G10 backing plate
bonded under the existing plywood backing plate underneath it. Fabrication
was ~$2800 and then the stainless steel chalks (Schaefer XCL Model 60-50) and
roller assembly it was closer to a $3500 upgrade all told.  Probably not
the most economical approach in the end and definitely a lot of work
although I do like how it came out.

I did this as part of a full deck repair/repaint/refit project in spring of
2000.

Having an anchor all the way out on the bow does weigh the bow down a bit -
I ended up moving my spare anchor out into the aft lazarette to
compensate.  Having the roller definitely makes launching and retrieving
the anchor a lot easier!

Let me know if you have any questions.

Nathan

>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bow Repair

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hi Brian,

Ouch -- yes, that is fairly extensive damage, but anything is repairable.
Was the welded chainplate on the inside damaged as well?  I am talking
about the part with the tang that the forestay actually attaches to)?  You
will want to remove it entirely and inspect carefully for cracks.

I suspect you will need to fabricate (or have fabricated for you) a new
stainless steel plate on the outside at a minimum. However, that is a
fairly simple part as it is just a flat piece of stainless steel cut to the
correct shape with countersunk holes.  McMasterCarr sells the stock you
will need in small quantities:
https://www.mcmaster.com/stainless-steel-plate/corrosion-resistant-316-stainless-steel-6/
and a local machine shop should be able to do the machining if you don't
have the tools to do it yourself. If you are handy with cad (on-shape is a
free online program for personal projects) then you can also use a company
like Xometry online to have it fabricated elsewhere (they can do welding
etc. to - you just have to request it).

My recommendation for the fiberglass is to grind out the damaged area
entirely and then create as shallow a taper as you can (at least a 12/1
slope) from there going outwards in all directions on the sides of the
hull.  If the resulting hole is large, it may be helpful to glue a thin
sheet of pre-cured but flexible fiberglass laminate (could start with G10
from mcmastercarr) on the inside to provide a backing plate to lay up the
new glass against, or you could create an inside mold with wood that is
shaped to match the inside of the hull and wrapped in release cloth and
braced inside the chain locker. Then cut and layer in glass cloth soaked in
epoxy that gradually increases in size and rotate every layer by 45 deg to
create a quasi-isotropic laminate. (If you build up to about the same
thickness, then the end result will be stronger than the original). Use a
long-working time epoxy (at least several hours) and I recommend using a
vacuum bagging system with bags on the inside and outside) to create
compression and remove voids as the epoxy cures.  Depending on total
thickness it may be a good idea to do this in several steps with half a
dozen layers each, sanding and cleaning the surface before each subsequent
lamination to remove the amine blush.

Finally sand/grid smooth, use epoxy filler for any diviots and sand again /
repeat until smooth.  Prime and paint.  If the rest of the hull is the
original gel coat and you don't want to paint it all, you could consider
making just the bow a contrasting color with a straight vertical edge
between the paint and gel coat (it could look good, even intentional).

Was the aluminum bow casting also damaged?  If so, I have one from my 1981
C 34 I can send you (I replaced it with a custom one to add an anchor
roller last year).  The only challenge is that the pin for the forestay is
seized so that will take some work to remove or drill it out. I used the
original chainplates so I don't have those as extras.  However,
a possibility is if you can find a boat that was salvaged and they kept the
chainplates you might be able to get them relatively inexpensively.  I
wonder what happened to Rob Ball's 34 after it sank and the insurance
company totaled it?

Nathan
S/V Wisper
Lynn, MA
1981 C 34


On Sat, Sep 25, 2021 at 8:45 AM Brian Morrison via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello All,
>
> I had an unfortunate encounter with a buoy and my 1979 C 34 suffered
> pretty severe damage to the bow. The chain plate for the forestay was bent
> and needs to be replaced. There is some fiberglass repair needed as well.
> I’m thinking of fixing it myself. Anyone know where I can get a chain
> plate/backing plate from. And, advice on repairing the fiberglass. I’m
> located in Baltimore, MD. See pics attached.
>
> Thanks
> Brian
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Replacing Cabin/Deck Balsa Core

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I didn't keep track of hours.  The deck repair was a weeks or two of
evenings and weekends. Then another two weeks of sanding, prepping and
painting and more time for replacing the windows and reinstalling all the
hardware and life lines.  Including rewiring the mast, adding radar,
designing, building and installing a new bow roller assembly, etc. the
whole refit took me about 4 months.

On Thu, Aug 26, 2021, 10:12 Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Wow, looks like you did a great job, looks nice.
>
> How long did it take you to do that whole operation?
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Nathan Post via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Thursday, August 26, 2021 8:27 AM
> *To:* Stus-List
> *Cc:* Andy Frame; Nathan Post
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Replacing Cabin/Deck Balsa Core
>
>
>
> Agreed with others on not using expanding foam for this.  I personally
> used balsa wood to replace the rotted core as it has the best strength to
> weight ratio and is pretty easy to work with.  There are structural foams
> that can be used but most do not have quite as good mechanical properties
> as balsa wood.  My other tip is that where you know you will be putting a
> hole through it can be good to go with solid laminate in that area instead
> so you don't have to carve out the balsa and fill with epoxy later.
> Especially at structural points (bulkhead bolts for example).  When I did
> this on my C 34, I used 1/2" G10 plate.  Roughen both sides and bond in
> place of the balsa.  Complete the lamination and painting and then cut or
> drill for the fitting.  Adds a little weight and a lot of strength.
>
>
>
> Some photos showing what I did to repair the core in my deck in 2020 are
> here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/8W4AdgmKqKxARvsY7  These show the G10
> plates used where penetrations are made later for the bulkhead attachments
> and the fan in the head.  I didn't do that around the chain plate and
> instead just filled an area with thickened epoxy but on hindsight using G10
> there too would have been better and will avoid the problem happening again
> in the future.
>
>
> Note, in some cases, I rebuilt the deck laminate from scratch and in
> others I laminated the original back in place and then created a
> tapered grove and laminated the two parts of the top deck back together for
> strength using narrow strips of fiberglass. I used weights to hold the G10
> in place while bonding it with thickened epoxy to the lower skin but then
> used a vacuum system when doing the larger lamination areas after doing a
> wet layup.
>
>
>
> Nathan
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Replacing Cabin/Deck Balsa Core

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Agreed with others on not using expanding foam for this.  I personally used
balsa wood to replace the rotted core as it has the best strength to weight
ratio and is pretty easy to work with.  There are structural foams that can
be used but most do not have quite as good mechanical properties as balsa
wood.  My other tip is that where you know you will be putting a hole
through it can be good to go with solid laminate in that area instead so
you don't have to carve out the balsa and fill with epoxy later.
Especially at structural points (bulkhead bolts for example).  When I did
this on my C 34, I used 1/2" G10 plate.  Roughen both sides and bond in
place of the balsa.  Complete the lamination and painting and then cut or
drill for the fitting.  Adds a little weight and a lot of strength.

Some photos showing what I did to repair the core in my deck in 2020 are
here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/8W4AdgmKqKxARvsY7  These show the G10
plates used where penetrations are made later for the bulkhead attachments
and the fan in the head.  I didn't do that around the chain plate and
instead just filled an area with thickened epoxy but on hindsight using G10
there too would have been better and will avoid the problem happening again
in the future.

Note, in some cases, I rebuilt the deck laminate from scratch and in others
I laminated the original back in place and then created a tapered grove and
laminated the two parts of the top deck back together for strength using
narrow strips of fiberglass. I used weights to hold the G10 in place while
bonding it with thickened epoxy to the lower skin but then used a vacuum
system when doing the larger lamination areas after doing a wet layup.

Nathan

~~~
Nathan Post
+1 (781)  605-8671


On Wed, Aug 25, 2021 at 5:43 PM Andy Frame via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That pretty much settles this discussion!
>
> Thanks to everyone for their thoughts.
>
>
> On 8/25/2021 2:26 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
> > Expanding foam has no structural strength at all and is easily
> > compromised by water. I would not even think of it for this use.
> >
> > Joe
> >
> > Coquina
> >
> > *From:* SV Mary Me via CnC-List 
> > *Sent:* Wednesday, August 25, 2021 12:19 PM
> > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > *Cc:* SV Mary Me 
> > *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Replacing Cabin/Deck Balsa Core
> >
> > I've got some soft spots returning on the deck at the base of the mast,
> > that a previous owner had made an attempt to shore up. According to the
> > owners manual, the cabin-ceiling/deck sandwich is balsa cored, so I'm
> > working with the assumption that this has rotted away.
> >
> > The local supply store has a plastic honeycomb panel to use as a base
> > material for fibreglass work that could use to fill the space, once the
> > rotted material is dug out. I also thought about using expanding,
> > self-hardening construction foam that could be shaved and shaped, then
> > 'glassed over.
> >
> > Has anyone used, or have any thoughts on using the expanding foam?
> >
> > s/v Mary Me
> >
> > 1975 C 24
> >
> > Labelle, Florida USA
> >
>
> --
> s/v MaryMe
> 1975 C 24
> Labelle, FL USA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th plexi in MD

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,
If none of your windows are longer than 4' you may find it more economical
to purchase from McMasterCarr even though the material does cost more.  I
bought 3'x4'x1/4" https://www.mcmaster.com/8505K739-8505K962/ for $130 +
~$30 shipping here in MA which was enough to do all 4 windows on my C
34 (they also have 3/16" if you want to go thinner
https://www.mcmaster.com/8505K733-8505K862/ for $105).  It also arrives
quickly (often the next day for me) even with ground shipping since they
are here on the east coast.
Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn MA

On Sun, Jun 13, 2021 at 11:54 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm about to buy the plexi for the windows on my boat.  Looks like I'm
> going to have to order it from California and the shipping is going to be
> ridiculously expensive.  $150 for the glass and $130 for the shipping.  I'm
> pretty sure that a larger sheet and or multiple sheets will be
> proportionally less and less expensive.  If someone would like me to
> coordinate buying a larger sheet to share, or more than 1 sheets, I'd be
> happy to do so.  You'd have to arrange pickup or delivery from my house.  I
> need to get this ordered quickly so speak up if you're interested.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40 rigging

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Joe,

It may take some searching to find someone who will work on older rod
rigging but they do exist. Here in the Boston area, North East Rigging out
of Concord MA has this expertise. Call around and hopefully you can find
someone in your area who can do the work. Does it save money in the end vs
going with a newer dyneema solution - I am not sure and it will depend on
what problems the rigger runs into as they go along?  Inspection is a
challenge if the rig hasn't been taken apart in a while - last year on my
1981 C a lot of my fittings were seized and could not be inspected so
that did require complete disassembly and reheading all of the rods.  One
rod had to be replaced as did the turnbuckles and the fittings on the end
of the spreader.  The spreaders ended up being a lot of work and parts
because the threads stripped on a part and no replacement was available.
Replacement parts then required machining the ends of the spreaders.  Also
the aluminum through bolts in the mast all had to be replaced which
required custom machining of the ends to accommodate replacement stainless
steel threaded. Including a new wire forestay and harken furler it came to
~$12k for all the parts and labor including setting up and tuning the rig.
The rod rigging does seem to last a long time so I am hopeful that this
will be good to go for many years to come.

Nathan

~~~
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34 CB
Lynn MA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Precision Sails

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Sorry, just saw that you want a spinnaker. I just bought an asym for my
boat.  Precision was a bit less than Doyle but I talked Doyle down in
price  just by stating my budget and that the quote was just too high. Came
in under 3 boat bucks including the launching tube and bag.  Decided to
stay local.  Haven't flown it yet so I am looking forward to that this
spring.

Nathan


On Tue, Mar 16, 2021, 06:06 Nathan Post  wrote:

> I agree with the local loft sentiment. Precision sails has good prices if
> all you want is a basic sail but everything (reef points, reinforcing,
> better sail cloth, bags, etc) is additional and it adds up. By the time you
> add the features the price was close to what Doyle had to offer here in MA.
> I paid tax but no shipping and got some great sails made right here in New
> England. Also the lofts will usually negotiate on price in my experience
> and match or come close to other quotes for equivalent product.
>
> Doyle's service was excellent and I could bring my old sail to them so
> they swapped the track slides and everything.
>
> Nathan
> S/V Wisper
> C
> Lynn, MA
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Precision Sails

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I agree with the local loft sentiment. Precision sails has good prices if
all you want is a basic sail but everything (reef points, reinforcing,
better sail cloth, bags, etc) is additional and it adds up. By the time you
add the features the price was close to what Doyle had to offer here in MA.
I paid tax but no shipping and got some great sails made right here in New
England. Also the lofts will usually negotiate on price in my experience
and match or come close to other quotes for equivalent product.

Doyle's service was excellent and I could bring my old sail to them so they
swapped the track slides and everything.

Nathan
S/V Wisper
C
Lynn, MA

On Tue, Mar 16, 2021, 01:24 ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I recommend going with a loft near you. If the sails by Precision aren't
> acceptable, you might not have any recourse. There's an advantage to having
> a sailmaker come to your boat and make the measurements. After the sails
> are made, they can go out with you and observe how they fly. They can make
> any adjustments based on what they see. I use the local North loft, and the
> owner has given me excellent service. Once I started using him for my
> sails, I never went to anyone else to compare prices.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 7:00 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> HI All
>>
>> Am in market for a spinnaker and came across Precision Sails of Sydney BC
>> in Canada.  I measure, they fabricate and ship no taxes or duties.  Offer
>> different shapes for differing conditions.  Pricing is attractive – approx
>> 2 boat bucks
>>
>> www.precisionsailloft.com
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>> Any comments or experience?
>>
>>
>>
>> John and Maryann
>>
>> Legacy III
>>
>> 1982 C 34
>>
>> Noank, CT
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --
>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!9GEvPGcdoVtzIPusTBMzdc-VduWyP0712wgRLyuKLS1M9yVIpsptnQkTRcSC-UUo2D0$
>>  Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

It is also possible with a balsa core to pick out the core with a bent wire or 
other steel curved hook going into the side wall of the hole so you don’t have 
to over drill from either side.  You have to make sure you get it all so the 
epoxy will seal the core.  Hard to do with a small <1/4” hole but i have 
managed for 5/16 and works well on 3/8 and larger.  Then put tape on the bottom 
and fill with epoxy and redrill when cured.  Useful when you can’t get a drill 
to the underside and don’t want to overdrill the top as discussed.

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
Lynn MA USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Buying a C & C 32

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Just realized that I sent my response directly to David instead of the
list.  As others have also sent messages, here is the scoop on my rigging
project:

Kevin Montague at North East Rigging Systems did my standing rigging refit
this spring.  I think he did good work with high quality components and he
is very knowledgeable.  He also cares about customer success and has
checked back in with me regarding the rig tune and other issues.  However,
he is not great at scheduling and project management (missed ordering parts
in advance) and overbooks himself given that weather always gets in the
way.  This led to it taking longer and delaying launch a few weeks from my
target  completion date (after I had already delayed a month from the
original plan to finish my deck refit).  He had the rig starting in early
February so I was a bit disappointed that it wasn’t ready to be installed
at the end of June and I had to wait a few more weeks (ended up with a July
20th launch this year and was still waiting for the longer threaded rods
for the turnbuckles as the ones Kevin had originally procured were not long
enough to get cotter pins through).  Granted with Covid it was a strange
and difficult year all around.

The main question on the rod inspection seems to be how regularly is the
mast taken down and the fittings moved around (and perhaps if you are in
salt water or not).  If the ends are seized then you can't inspect them and
the rod must be redheaded.  Not super expensive (a few boat bucks) by
itself until you find that you need to replace the through rods in the mast
which are seized aluminum (replaced with stainless).  Then the threaded
parts at the end of the spreader stripped and needed to be replaced and the
new ones didn't fit the spreader tip so that had to be machined ... and so
on.  Ended up with $7.5k in parts and tax and $4.5k in labor for the whole
job, but as I said, that included a new wire forestay, furler, halyards,
and masthead sheaves so it was probably about half of that for the rod
rigging work and associated parts along with stepping the mast.

Good peace of mind but it is a lot of money to put into an old boat and hey
it lasted for 40 years already - so I am still not sure if it is a required
investment.  The problem is getting someone to work on it or even step it
can be hard if the rods are seized in the fittings because of the liability
so once I had the mast taken down I kind of had to do something.  As others
have noted, getting insurance can also be an issue.  I have insurance with
Boat US (Geico) which as has been noted many times on this list is not
great insurance as they only pay current value which rapidly discounts
everything, but on the other hand they aren't picky on the survey
requirements (I don't believe that they have asked me for a hull or rigging
survey in fact).  So for me, I pretty much consider it to be total loss
insurance and liability and I self insure for everything else less than a
total loss.  So far, attempts to get other insurance quotes for the boat
have failed due to the boat's age and issues noted in the 2018 purchase
survey (most of which I have taken care of, but I haven't had another
survey done).

Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34 KCB
Lynn MA

On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 8:14 AM David Risch  wrote:

> Nathanwho did the work?
>
> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Nathan Post
> via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 9, 2020 6:30:11 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> *Cc:* Nathan Post 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Buying a C & C 32
>
> On my C 34 I had a rigger who does rod rigging go through the rig and
> inspect it and re-end all the rods and he replaced two of them.  Rods can
> last a very long time but the ends need to be inspected for cracks and in
> my case most of them were seized into the fittings so inspection of the
> ends wasn’t possible.  Some of the hardware couldn’t be reused and we
> replaced the turnbuckle treaded studs as a precaution (Some had to be
> longer to make up for the shorter rod lengths after reending). Along with a
> new furler and headstay which was damaged by the old furler when the foil
> failed under the swivel this ran $12k USD Including labor. I think the
> forstay, new halyards and furler, and mast head sheaves were about half of
> that and the rest was the rod work.
> Anyway if you have rod rigging it is something to consider instead of
> completely replacing everything.  Not sure if your insurance will be ok
> with that but if you can get a rig inspection cert from the rigger
> afterwards I would think they would be.  Still expensive but likely less
> then a complete new set of standing rigging and I have more confidence that
> my rig is ready for another 40 years (much of it was likely original
> although I don’t know for sure).  Make

Re: Stus-List Buying a C & C 32

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

On my C 34 I had a rigger who does rod rigging go through the rig and inspect 
it and re-end all the rods and he replaced two of them.  Rods can last a very 
long time but the ends need to be inspected for cracks and in my case most of 
them were seized into the fittings so inspection of the ends wasn’t possible.  
Some of the hardware couldn’t be reused and we replaced the turnbuckle treaded 
studs as a precaution (Some had to be longer to make up for the shorter rod 
lengths after reending). Along with a new furler and headstay which was damaged 
by the old furler when the foil failed under the swivel this ran $12k USD 
Including labor. I think the forstay, new halyards and furler, and mast head 
sheaves were about half of that and the rest was the rod work.
Anyway if you have rod rigging it is something to consider instead of 
completely replacing everything.  Not sure if your insurance will be ok with 
that but if you can get a rig inspection cert from the rigger afterwards I 
would think they would be.  Still expensive but likely less then a complete new 
set of standing rigging and I have more confidence that my rig is ready for 
another 40 years (much of it was likely original although I don’t know for 
sure).  Makes for good peace of mind anyway.

Nathan

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper 
1981 C 34 KCB 
Lynn, MA USA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Chandler,
Glad that my ramblings were useful.  Honestly, I do think that electric
systems are the way of the future and with an engineering background it
should be entirely doable for you.  I am a mechanical engineer and work
wind wind energy so I have a pretty good grasp of the fundamentals although
I am no expert in batteries and controllers - in any case feel free to run
things by me if you want.  Sounds like an exciting project and I would love
to follow along and see what you decide.  I also didn't know that Rob Ball
had converted his 34 to electric so that is encouraging and a nice data
point!  Starting with a good motor and controller and some cheap batteries
that can be upgraded later could be a good way to go.  Maybe I'll start
putting together the specs for a system for my boat this winter ...

Anyhow, if you can limp the old engine along, getting to head out and sail
your new boat a this season while you figure it out sounds like a great
plan.  Definitely the best to get out sailing and then see what things you
want to change/improve.  I suggest you invest in a US Tow Boat gold
membership (something like $250/year I think) so if your engine dies and
there is no wind you can get a tow back home without breaking the bank.

BTW, Stu (who manages the list) requests that we all trim out the previous
messages from our replies so as not to fill up the list server storage
faster than required (otherwise every message gets stored multiple times).

Nathan

S/V Wisper

1981 C 34

Lynn MA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hi Chandler,

Welcome to the list!  While an electric conversion does have its challenges
in terms of cost and performance, I too am very much interested in this
approach and would love to go that route at some point and get away from
fossil fuel based aux power. I am not sure if or when I will do so as I
have a fully functional Westerbeke 20B2 on my C 34 and it does have
advantages in terms of range and power, but I definitely dislike the noise
and vibration and use of fossil fuel.  Also from an environmental power
while not great, this is a pretty minor contribution to my overall carbon
footprint as I only typically go through about 20 gallons a year.

There are people who have successfully done electric conversions on
displacement hull boats of this size and vintage.  Sailing Uma (youtube
channel) https://www.sailinguma.com/electro-beke has successfully made
their Pearson 36 and sailing lifestyle work around a limited electric aux
propulsion system and solar charging when off grid.  They originally used
inexpensive and used parts (forklift motor and golf cart batteries) to
cobble together a system that got them in and out of the harbor.  Later,
they upgraded to lithium batteries and more recently a sail drive.  From
their experience, while the sail drive is cool, I am not sure it makes
sense on a boat that was designed with a shaft going through the hull.  I
think the real key is being willing to plan around your capability in terms
of range and speed.  If you deal with large tides like here in the north
east then pushing against a current for hours might just not be an option
with an electric system.  So for us, trying to get in and out of our
channel for a quick evening sail might not work well if I don't want to
time it with the tides.  On the other hand if I had an hour or so of range
at 4 or 5 knots with some to spare, it would be fine (and I would actually
want to design a system with more like 4-6 hours of range at 5 knots)

One thing I have been told is that the biggest problem with electric
conversions is that while there are lots of components on the market,
nobody is building a whole system where they can do the system design and
you actually get what you are told.  Thus, particularly on newer more
expensive boats where the owners are expecting equivalent performance to a
diesel, they are getting disappointed.  Thus, you pretty much have to
design the system yourself and run your own performance numbers since you
will be pairing a battery and motor and controller and prop together on
your own.  There will be some guess work and experimentation involved too
and a good understanding of energy and power is important.

If I do go down this road, I would want a system with pretty good
performance and range (think $) and would likely buy new components so I
would expect to put something in the ballpark of 20k into the project (I
haven't actually designed and specect a system yet so that is just a rough
guess but figure $10k for the batteries (~20 kWh), and $10k for motor (~8
kW), controller, charger.  At that point from a pure cost perspective, I
suspect a brand new Beta engine would be less expensive.

I have wondered about doing a conversion using a (crashed) electric vehicle
which might be cheaper and could have significantly better performance -
however, i have pretty much decided that a 380 volt DC system isn't great
from a safety perspective and the lithium ion batteries require close
thermal management which makes things a lot more complicated and they have
serious fire concerns so much better off going with lithium iron instead
and keeping it to 48 volts I think.

The heating water is an interesting challenge too.  For short trips if you
have shore power ahead of time and a good hot water heater (I have an
Isotherm 5 gallon), you can heat it up ahead of time and it will stay hot
or at least warm a long time (2 days?).  resistive heating will go through
the batteries I suspect but perhaps there is a small heat pump type hot
water heater available?  They make larger ones for houses that are pretty
efficient, but not sure about boats.  There are propane hot water heaters
if you want to keep that fuel on board.

And then getting as much solar as possible will be important (on top of
conserving power).  That also adds costs. Something on the order of 400 -
600 watts might get you 4 kWh of charge on a sunny 12 hour day (sun isn't
always overhead) - full recharge over a week?  But on the other hand, what
does my boat do for 95% of the summer - sit in the sun!

Lots to think about but sounds like a great project!  Unfortunately, if you
are just looking for simple works and you can go when and where you want,
the other responses saying get a new Beta diesel probably are the way to go.

Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn MA
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Re: Stus-List Isaias

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Went out to the boat yesterday and used all the dock lines I own to add
extra spring lines on both sides (including across the empty slip next to
me) and took the sails off and stowed them below.  Probably was overkill as
we now are not expecting to see anything over 45 kts or as the center of
the storm is well west.  However, the seaport marina in Lynn is exposed to
the south which is the primary wind direction here so I was concerned about
extra windage.  Biggest risk is that the marina will fall apart
unfortunately (it isn't in good shape) or something else will come loose
and hit the boat.  Just have to hope for the best.  Here at home in Malden,
it is windy and occasional heavy rain but nothing too extreme so far.

~~~
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
C 34
Lynn MA, USA
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Re: Stus-List Launching a 34 by forklift

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

This is an example of a safe way to safely pick up a 34 ft boat with a
large forklift (care of 59-North on facebook):
https://www.facebook.com/59North/photos/a.1498332766863951/3329478570416019
https://www.facebook.com/59North/photos/a.1498332766863951/3329478680416008
I think that method is much better than trying from the end as it keeps the
cg much closer to the forklift (6 ft or so out) and uses straps to support
the boat similar to a travel lift.  Of course, it will take a lot of room
to maneuver!

~~~
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn, MA USA
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Re: Stus-List New-guy C 40 Shopping questions

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Welcome Jeff,

Something to keep in mind is that a 40 is almost twice as much boat
compared to a 34 or 35 (18000+ lbs rather than 1 or so. Everything is
bigger, heavier and more expensive.   And it can also get more complicated
to sail - does it have running backstays?  I think that a 38 such as Ocean
Phoenix does have running backstays - not sure about the 40.  My 34 does
not.  Not a big deal for long passages, but we tend to go out to tool
around for an evening tacking and jibing a dozen times in the process or go
sail around the islands outside of Marblehead and Beverly and I would
prefer to sail rather than motor whenever possible if there is any wind
(which is why it is nice to have a light C that will move in light air).
Dockage, hauling and winter storage all scale with length too.  If offshore
passages are your plan then the bigger boat is likely a better choice and
you want to pay attention to the stability numbers as well, and a C may
not be the right choice at all (although I am sure there are those on this
list who would differ).

Any 30-40 ft keelboat boat in the under $2 sale price range is going to
need a lot of TLC, fiberglass work, paint, rigging work, sails (likely at
some point) and replacements over the coming years. We have a 34 KCB and it
is a nice size for us and is easy for my wife and me to handle (we don't
have or fly a spin although I am looking to add an asymmetrical at some
point). If I was to do it again I might look for a 34+ or 34/36 which is a
little larger and has a newer style interior layout with a separate shower
from the head I believe.  While that would have been more money up front,
but as I put 10+k into improvements plus lots of time each year it would
not have made a big difference in the long run.  My boat budget ends up
around $20/year, about half of which is slip, hauling, winter storage and
insurance, and the other half is maintenance and upgrades.  The first year
we had the sails cleaned and repaired for $600, had the prop rebuilt for
$500, new water heater, new head plumbing, new bilge pumps, new foam for
the cushions (which I restuffed myself, etc.), etc. etc..  Last year we got
new cruising sails for $6k and some new lines, new water pump, inflatable
life jackets, etc..  This year it was quite a bit more (I haven't kept
track) because we had the rod-rigging re-ended and needed a new furler and
I repaired soft spots in the deck, repainted and refit the entire deck and
included replacing winches with self tailers and added a custom bow roller
I designed and sent out to a machine shop along with a new anchor and
rode.  I am glad she is only 34ft long rather than 40!  Can you do it for a
bit less - yes likely - but it is also nice to be able to improve things
and make them better suit your needs and be prepared for the furler that
breaks and isn't repairable type expenses.  Slip and such are probably a
bit less up in Maine than in the Boston area, but it all adds up.

Actually from my experience, and what I have read/learned since, you are
much better off spending more money now to get a boat that the previous
owner put a lot into upgrading and fixing then a previously neglected boat
like I did.  Like you we wanted to get into a 30+ ft cruising boat at the
low end of the price point (we paid $7500 for Wisper in 2018) and I do
enjoy working on it almost as much as sailing so there is that.  Initially
this approach is tempting with lots of old neglected boats in the market,
but I wouldn’t likely do that again now that I am into "big boat"
ownership.  I would likely still get a 40 year old boat again if/when it
comes time to upgrade, but I would look for one that someone else did a lot
of upgrading on recently and happily pay more for it (there will still be
plenty to do and change over the years).  On the other hand, I am learning
a ton as I try things on this boat and learn what I like and don't like and
I am not sure if we would have bought a boat at all if I had proposed a
larger budget to my wife initially.  And there is also satisfaction in
bringing a good boat back from the brink of the scrap yard.

Anyway, that is my two cents.  Good luck!

Nathan
- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34 KCB
Lynn MA
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Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

At 38 I am a year younger than Wisper so I help the other 30 somethings pull 
the mean down a bit :). Actually, Wisper is the second boat I have owned that 
is older than me - in grad school in VA I had an Annapolis 18 that was built in 
1950.  One of the early fiberglass boats - similar to a Day Sailor or a Rodes 
but with a weighted CB and no keel. I put lots of TLC into that boat too. 
Unfortunately she was totaled by a lightening bolt while tied up in a marina on 
Lake Erie the year after I passed her along to a friend who lives in Buffalo. 
The lightening turned the hull into a colander (mast was not grounded and there 
wasn’t really anything to ground it too).  The crazy thing is a few years 
earlier I was caught out in a thunderstorm on Claytor lake in VA - glad the 
boat wasn’t hit then!

I stated sailing when I was 10 and my Dad and I built a 12 foot sloop from 
plywood using plans we found in a library book.  Got into racing smallish boats 
in grad school on Claytor lake in Western VA. Now looking to do mostly coastal 
cruising in New England.

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34 CB
Lynn MA


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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump hose

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I also used Trident 147 for my bilge pump (and shower pump) - it is nice to
work with, cleans easily and because it is partially clear you can see if
there is water in it or if you have a blockage.  Only had it installed for
2 years, but so far looks and feels like new.
Nathan
S/V Wisper
C 34
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Re: Stus-List hatch repair

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Joe,

Not sure what model hatch you have but on my Bomar hatch they are slotted
spring pins like these https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/3537
You can just push them out with a punch that is slightly smaller in
diameter than the pin (use a hammer and gently tap on it.  When putting it
back together I used masking tape and cardboard on the acrylic lens to
protect it in case I bump it with the hammer so I don't scratch it.  Buy
replacement pins and tap them in.  They also make special tools for it but
I didn't find that necessary.

I also repainted the frame of my hatch using etching primer and aluminum
paint since the powder coating was coming off.  It came out pretty good
overall although the paint is a little soft and easy to chip compared to
the original powder coat so I don't know how long it will last.

I used 3M VHB tape and dow 793 sealant for putting the new acrylic lens in,
all three from McMastercarr.  Also found that it is pretty easy to get the
shape right using a router with a tracing bit (has a bearing on the end)
and clamping the new lens to the old one.

Nathan

S/V Wisper
C 34, 1981
Lynn MA

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 12:16 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> How did you get the hinge pins out??
>
>
> Joe
> On 6/24/2020 11:54 AM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi Joe,
> I just replaced the plexiglass on 2 of my hatches. I dug out most of the
> sealant around the lens, then took a windshield removal tool to cut the
> bond between the frame and lens. I used a wire wheel to clean up the
> remainder of sealant. Wiped the frame with lacquer thinner, put a small
> bevel on both the top and bottom of the new plexiglass. taped off where I
> didn't want sealant. Laid a bead of Sika Flex 295uv, positioned lens into
> frame and pushed down with just enough force to make the lens leves with
> the frame. I then filled the gap between the frame and plexiglass. You will
> want to make sure you get as many of the voids as possible.
> https://www.harborfreight.com/windshield-removing-tool-60298.html
>
> Doug.
>
> On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 8:40 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have been asking about sending my hatches in for refurbishment and it
>> isn't cheap. Am I overthinking it? I only need two things, one is putting a
>> new gasket in and the other is a new piece of Plexiglas. I can buy the
>> gasket and the glue and the local shop can duplicate the glass easy enough.
>> Thankfully I don't have the kind of hatch that opens from the outside, so
>> there are no knob or O rings to leak.
>> Question - how do you get the hatch off? The pins don't look designed to
>> be removed easily. Do you cut them and then get new ones?
>>
>>
>> Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
>> www.dellabarba.com
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
> --
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC, WA
> Rebecca Leah
> C LandFall 39
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I second the idea of redundant bilge pumps and I have installed both a 300 gph 
diaphragm with a water witch mounted as low as I could get it to suck water 
reliably in addition to the a 1500 centrifuge pump with a mechanical float 
switch that came with the boat. The centrifugal pump float switch is higher so 
it rarely runs except when I test it a few times a season so it should last a 
while I hope. 

I agree with Josh that I am not sure if the centrifugal pump will really pump 
much faster then the diaphragm under real world conditions. Having the manual 
pump in the cockpit and making sure that is in good condition (test and rebuild 
or replace if it is old because the rubber parts will fail - I found mine which 
was luckily original failed after a few strokes when I tested it last year) and 
I see it as is critical if you are on the boat and taking on water.

I also have a  counter on the water witch / diaphragm so I can check how many 
times it has come on since last time I was on the boat. A few times depending 
on how much it rained (coming down the mast) is normal. More than that is a 
sign of a problem.  Thinking I should add a warning light And/or buzzer as 
others have mentioned in the past so I will notice if it is running while 
motoring or sailing.

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
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Re: Stus-List CnC34-Anything to pay attention to?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I second Mikes take.  My 34 has been a great relatively inexpensive cruising 
boat so far and I love having a boat that moves in light wind. We sail short 
handed too and don’t race so I tend to reef early but she will handle a blow 
just fine and with the full rig you can sail to windward pretty well (actually 
on all points) under headsail only when it is blowing.
It does have plenty of old boat issues and needs work and TLC but if you have 
fun with that it isn’t too bad.

Yes soft spots in the deck happen (Sailed with them for two years and just 
repaired this spring) and some leaks around the bulkhead connections but 
overall my impression is that it is a good quality production boat with the 
right compromise between interior and cockpit space and relatively underpriced 
compared to similar size boats.  Like Mike, my wife got on the 34 and despite 
the dirt and mildew cause it had been sitting for a few years she said this is 
the one.  We got her cleaned up and are improving things each year.  One 
drawback for cruising is no bow roller for the anchor.

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34 CB
Lynn, MA

> On Jun 14, 2020, at 10:32 AM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Great story
> 
>> On Sun, Jun 14, 2020 at 9:41 AM Headgorilla via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I have owned and sailed my 1978 34' for the past 5 seasons and she was not 
>> what I was looking for originally, I was looking at the 35's. Skywalker was 
>> a bit unique in that she was built for a fellow who raced her in the UK so 
>> she is a bit of a "winch farm" as I have had some admirers refer to her as 
>> :). 
>> 
>> She sails like a dream, great in the light wind, decent in the middle and 
>> very stable in heavy (I have found) as I have been caught in some ugly wind 
>> here and there in the Northeast. mine has a tiller (1st owners choice) so I 
>> originally was disappointed as I wanted to have a "big wheel" :), however 
>> very soon after sailing her I found that as big as she is, even with my 150% 
>> up she sails like a Sunfish and I tack as fast. I have only launched the 
>> symmetrical spinnaker once in light wind 5-8 and she was fabulous, but since 
>> it is just my wife and I, I have no desire to use it in anything more than 
>> that
>> 
>> Hull is very solid, I have a soft spot or two in the decks and I fix them as 
>> I go along but it comes with the age, besides its just my wife and I and she 
>> is only 108lbs so its not like I have a crew of guys stomping around up 
>> there, we have no cabin leaks although the toe-rail had some but thanks to 
>> Capt Tolley's Creeping Crack cure (thanks Dennis) they no longer are a 
>> problem.
>> 
>> We have the original A4 gas engine which was redone by Moyer Marine in 2009, 
>> I find the boat sails so well I do not use it too much and we do a fair 
>> amount of distance in our boat. To be honest I prefer the gas engine as I do 
>> not care for the diesel smell or exhaust. When shopping boats my wife turned 
>> her nose up at everything 35's, Bristols, Cats, etc...….we saw our 34' on a 
>> rainy cold day in October, it was on the end of a dock blowing 25mph and we 
>> had to jump just to get on her.we were on her 5 minutes and my wife said 
>> "buy her".
>> 
>> I think the hardest part of my ownership of my 34' is telling my wife its 
>> time to go home.
>> 
>> Buy the 34 and sail, just sail
>> 
>> Mike Dolan
>> 1978 34' C Skywalker
>> Southold, NY
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> -- 
> Joel Delamirande
> 
> www.jdroofing.ca
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

G-10 is a common premade pultruded eglass epoxy material also called garolite 
or FR4:

https://www.mcmaster.com/grade-g-10-garolite/multipurpose-flame-retardant-garolite-g-10-fr4-sheets-and-bars/

Very handy for repairs, backing plates that don’t corrode (use 1/4” or 
thicker), replacement core material in an area you will drill through, etc. you 
can make your own material by laying up glass and epoxy on a plate coated with 
release agent but but buying it is easier and it is tightly dimensioned In 
thickness. I keep a bunch of different thicknesses on hand. Cuts with a cut off 
wheel on the grinder or the circular saw (dulls the blade). Sand the faces 
before bonding. 
Nathan

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper

> On Jun 14, 2020, at 9:26 AM, Neil Andersen  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> G10??
> 
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Nathan Post via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 6:51:51 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Nathan Post 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes
>  
> Randy,
> I just did this for a broken autopilot that was mounted in the sides of my 
> cockpit that wasn’t working.  My strategy was to use an angle grinder to 
> taper the edges of the hole back to try and get at least an inch of exposed 
> glass on an angle all around the hole.  Then I took a piece of roughly 0.1” 
> thick g10 that was bigger then the hole and glued it in behind.  First sand 
> the G10 with course grit paper, clean with acetone and then use a fast 
> setting adhesive (I used 3M 8805NS) and tape in place until set.  In your 
> case you need to get it between the liner and the deck laminate so if you 
> don’t have access from elsewhere you may need to do it in more than one 
> piece. Then just use masking tape on the back of the seam when you go to 
> laminate glass in. Once the g10 is bonded and cured you can wet lay glass 
> fabric in to fill the hole.  use slow epoxy and orienting the layers in 
> different directions. Doesn’t matter if the glass goes slightly beyond the 
> hole- you can sand it off later. When that is cured sand off areas that stick 
> out using a large orbital sander with course grit and fill areas that are not 
> thick enough with fairing compound. Sand again to 120 grit. Prime and paint 
> or gel coat to finish.
> 
> You may want to stick with a teak or starboard cover plate on the inside as I 
> think it will be harder to match the liner well and if you put instruments in 
> you may want access to wire the backside anyway.
> 
> - -
> Nathan Post
> S/V Wisper
> 
> > On Jun 13, 2020, at 11:29 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > Hello Listers,
> > 
> > Today I removed a broken compass from Grenadine’s cabin wall, and a teak 
> > nacelle it was in.   There’s a 4.5” circular hole in the cabin wall and 
> > interior liner.  Right now I’m covering it temporarily with a teak panel.  
> > Longer term I might like to glass in the holes for that and other 
> > instruments, and go to more flat-panel electronic instruments.
> > 
> > So, can anybody advise me on the procedure for re-glassing a 4.5” circular 
> > hole in a cabin wall, and liner?  The cabin wall looks to be maybe 3/8” 
> > thick, and the liner maybe 3/16” think, both uncored.
> > 
> > Thank you in advance.
> > 
> > Cheers,
> > Randy Stafford
> > S/V Grenadine
> > C 30 MK I #79
> > Ken Caryl, CO
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> > every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> > PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Randy,
I just did this for a broken autopilot that was mounted in the sides of my 
cockpit that wasn’t working.  My strategy was to use an angle grinder to taper 
the edges of the hole back to try and get at least an inch of exposed glass on 
an angle all around the hole.  Then I took a piece of roughly 0.1” thick g10 
that was bigger then the hole and glued it in behind.  First sand the G10 with 
course grit paper, clean with acetone and then use a fast setting adhesive (I 
used 3M 8805NS) and tape in place until set.  In your case you need to get it 
between the liner and the deck laminate so if you don’t have access from 
elsewhere you may need to do it in more than one piece. Then just use masking 
tape on the back of the seam when you go to laminate glass in. Once the g10 is 
bonded and cured you can wet lay glass fabric in to fill the hole.  use slow 
epoxy and orienting the layers in different directions. Doesn’t matter if the 
glass goes slightly beyond the hole- you can sand it off later. When that is 
cured sand off areas that stick out using a large orbital sander with course 
grit and fill areas that are not thick enough with fairing compound. Sand again 
to 120 grit. Prime and paint or gel coat to finish.

You may want to stick with a teak or starboard cover plate on the inside as I 
think it will be harder to match the liner well and if you put instruments in 
you may want access to wire the backside anyway.

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper

> On Jun 13, 2020, at 11:29 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello Listers,
> 
> Today I removed a broken compass from Grenadine’s cabin wall, and a teak 
> nacelle it was in.   There’s a 4.5” circular hole in the cabin wall and 
> interior liner.  Right now I’m covering it temporarily with a teak panel.  
> Longer term I might like to glass in the holes for that and other 
> instruments, and go to more flat-panel electronic instruments.
> 
> So, can anybody advise me on the procedure for re-glassing a 4.5” circular 
> hole in a cabin wall, and liner?  The cabin wall looks to be maybe 3/8” 
> thick, and the liner maybe 3/16” think, both uncored.
> 
> Thank you in advance.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Rob Ball comment on 41 "robustness"

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Shawn,
On my 34 the deck to bulkhead fittings also leaked and as I found out were 
installed through cored laminate that had rotted so they were not doing much 
good. I recored the deck and used a piece of ~6x6” 1/2 inch thick g10 
fiberglass in place of balsa where the tang bolts. Planning on cutting the slot 
in that and through bolting it again so hopefully it will be stiff enough not 
to leak. I am assuming that they are structurally required so I plan on putting 
them back. 

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
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Re: Stus-List Water in rudder

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Seems to be a normal problem and from all the feedback on this list I
decided to leave it alone rather than replace or attempt a rebuild and I
just make sure I drain it in the winter.  I am pretty sure that the metal
components in my rudder are already encapsulated based on a few exploratory
holes I drilled and latter filled with thickened epoxy).  For the first two
winters I drilled a hole into the foam near the bottom (about 3 1/2 inches
up from the bottom in the middle of the rudder on my C is where the
foam starts) and let it drain for the winter on the hard - then patched
with epoxy and some barrier coat followed by bottom paint in the spring.
The first year, I also drilled a hole near the top but this didn't seem
necessary as the water will eventually come out of the foam either way.
This spring I decided to install a removable plug which I made myself using
https://www.mcmaster.com/50785K213 and https://www.mcmaster.com/4429k111 (I
cut the pipe fitting in half and only used one end).  Drilled hole with
appropriate hole saw, cleaned it up and bonded the fitting in using 5200.
I thought about using epoxy but figured that with different thermal
coefficients the 5200 might be better.  I'll barrier coat and paint over it
as usual.  Hopefully in the fall when back on the hard I can simply unscrew
the plug and the pipe fitting will stay put.

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn MA
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Re: Stus-List Shaft coupler removal

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Cut the coupler parallel to the shaft using an angle grinder with a cut-off 
wheel. Try to cut into the key so yuh don’t damage the shaft.  I didn’t have 
enough room to get all the way among the coupler with the grinder so I used a 
multi tool to finish the cut. Then pound a cold chisel into the cut to spread 
it off the shaft. May help to cut part way though on the other side.  It is a 
pain but doable - at least it was on my 34. 
Then get a new coupler fit and faced. 

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper___

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Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Consider replacing with an electric. I got a Torqueedo 1103S for my dinghy (9ft 
Zodiac rib). The motor with battery is around 38 lbs but disassembles and the 
battery can be installed after you put the motor on the boat. Quiet, no fuel, 
no mess, No smell, runs every time as long as you charge it. The 503 Model is 
under 30 lbs I think if you are concerned about weight.  Also depends on which 
battery you get.  More money up front but a lot less hassle in the long run I 
expect (new this year for me). 
Nathan
S/V Wisper

> On May 30, 2020, at 7:22 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I actually had one for years. NO WAY would I even think about getting near 
> one again. To stat with, the 10:1 mix of gas and 30 weight motor oil made a 
> nasty mess and it was famous for not starting at random times.
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
> On 5/30/2020 7:16 PM, Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List wrote:
>> Humm...  :-)
>> 
>> From their website ( "its time" actually is 1931 ) :
>> 
>> For its time the original engine was very advanced, a good proportion of the 
>> original engines are still running and parts are generally still available 
>> to keep them that way - a truly unique engine, a magnificent piece of 
>> British engineering and ingenuity.
>> 
>> Sylvain ( with an A4  :-)  )
>> 
>> 
>> Le samedi 30 mai 2020 19 h 05 min 25 s HAE, James Hesketh via CnC-List 
>>  a écrit :
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I've just recently been offered a 5hp (with clutch) short-shaft British 
>> Seagull. 
>> 
>> The price is right -- free -- but, but, but, ???
>> 
>> Jim Hesketh
>> C 26 Whisper
>> Miami, FL
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to the topic of securing cables in the
mast.  I just thought I would follow up and report back the result.

In the end, I did end up going with conduit.  I installed two runs of
1-1/4" schedule 40 outdoor PVC conduit (gray).  One up the aft of the mast
(slightly off to one side) that goes up to about 12 inches from the top of
the mast and the other up the front to just past the spreaders for the
steaming light and radar.  Each ends about 6 inches from the bottom of the
mast.

Both conduits are secured using 3/16" blind sealing aluminum rivets (I got
the rivets with aluminum mandrel because I was concerned about the
corrosion resistance of the steel ones).
https://www.mcmaster.com/rivets/rivet-type~blind/material~aluminum/system-of-measurement~inch/diameter~0-1875inches/aluminum-domed-head-sealing-blind-rivets/
For the most part I used the 0.375-0.5" length.  Steps taken:
- glue conduit pieces together using PVC primer and cement, then cut bottom
end to length.
- rotate mast so surface to rivet to is down and slide conduit into mast so
gravity kind of keeps it in place
- start at foot of the mast, put two rivets in about two inches apart
(these are easy cause we can hold the pvc in place when drilling).

I was then able to install the first few rivets about 2 feet apart going up
the mast.  However, this method stops working when you get to the first
joint (where the overlapping PVC is thicker).  I could snag it if I got a
longer rivet in the joint, but starting the next section was very hard as
it moves around when trying to drill and the rivet usually didn't catch the
PVC.  I tried different methods, pushing the conduit in place where another
mast fitting gave me access or drilling another hole off center and using a
wire hook (I wasn't very successful with that). The approach that worked
best for me was to drill for a hole about 2 inches away from the target
location but in line withe the PVC.  Drill into PVC using a smaller
diameter bit and drill out the aluminum with the 3/16" bit.  Then use a
fairly long self tapping screw into the PVC and use the screw to grab the
PVC tub and pull it against the mast.  Drill and install the desired rivet
location.  Remove screw, drill out hole in PVC to 3/16 and then install a
second rivet.  I did these two rivet pairs 3-4 feet apart.
On the front of the mast, I originally didn't secure the conduit where the
spin pole track is mounted.  However, I found that it had a lot of
flexibility and banged from side to side when the mast was rotated.  I was
able to push the middle over to one side (using one of the halyard exit
holes for access) and then put some rivets in the middle there).

For the front of the mast, I drilled holes into the PVC for the cables to
come out the side of the conduit at the appropriate locations, then used an
fish tape run up from the bottom to pull feed lines in and use those to
pull the cables.  Along with the cables, I pulled a thin line to use if I
ever need to add another cable.  At the top of the mast, the cables exit
the top of the conduit a little below the mast head, VHF runs out one side
and a 5 conductor 14 gauge cable for lights out the other.  Each of those
are going through existing diagonal holes.  After securing the cables I
caulked the holes to reduce water coming down the mast.  The NEMA1803 cable
for the wind instruments goes straight up through the center of the mast
head between the head sail sheaves and into the bottom of its mounting
bracket.

Note, with the rivets sticking into the conduit the conduits filled up
pretty quick and the cables sometimes catch on the rivets when trying to
pull them through. I am not sure I could pull anything else through even
though there is a pull line.  This does point to an an advantage of the
alternative carriage bolt method that was suggested. I also think I
probably could have fit 1-1/2" conduit instead so that might have been a
better choice to give a bit more room.

The aft conduit has:
LMR400-UF
5 conductor 14 gauge round marine cable (Tri-color/anchor light, Windex
light, + 1 spare)
NEMA1803 cable (put this one in first because of the connector).
The front one has:
- Garmin radar power cable
- Garmin radar communication cable (Ethernet) - note I had to cut the
connector off to fit it in and will need to crimp a new RJ45 on at the
bottom.
- Extra cat 6 cable
- 3 conductor flat 14 gauge cable for steaming and fore deck light.

Overall, I am reasonably pleased with the result - it will definitely be
good keeping the cables and halyards separate and I am hopeful that the
noise will be minimal (as long as the conduit doesn't come loose - crosses
fingers).  It did mean drilling a lot of holes in the mast and having a lot
of rivet heads sticking out which are pretty shiny right now, but I am sure
with a year or two they will not stand out too much.

Nathan

~~~
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34 CB
Lynn, MA
___

Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I am repainting the deck and the rebedding the hardware. The original hardware 
(gel coat under it) used butyl tape and in most places had not failed. The 
parts also come up easily when you want to pull them off. The ones using 4200 
or equivalent have failed, often around the screws, it is brittle, yet they 
don’t always come off easily unless completely failed (cutting under the part 
is often needed). I will be using butyl when I put it back together. 
Nathan
S/V Wisper
Lynn MA

- -
> On May 22, 2020, at 5:52 AM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> C (or a previous owner) used butyl everywhere on my boat, and while it had 
> failed in a few spots I'd add that the 4200 I used on a hatch failed after 2 
> years, so both can fail...  The hatch is on with butyl now, for 6 years, no 
> problem.
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
> On 2020-05-22 12:45 a.m., cscheaffer via CnC-List wrote:
>> I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not convinced this 
>> is best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was not chosen by C 
>> during the build except for the hull deck joint.  I like 3M 4200 and 4000uv. 
>>  Anybody have opinions on Butyl being better?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

When I did this I tried everything I could to pull the coupling off. In the 
end, I ended up cutting the shaft off using an angle grinder with a cut off 
wheel and a multi tool in different positions and I had to cut it on a bit of a 
spiral. It wasn’t fun. Try to cut it into the key way if you can so you don’t 
damage the shaft.
Good luck. 

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34

> On May 19, 2020, at 10:15 PM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> John, 
> When I did this on my LF38. I ended up pulling the V-drive and pulled the 
> shaft out into the aft cabin. The hardest part was getting the prop off. 
> 
> 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy
> sv Rebecca Leah 
> C Landfall 39
> Port Orchard yacht club
> 
>  Original message 
> From: John Christopher via CnC-List 
> Date: 5/19/20 16:23 (GMT-08:00)
> To: CNC CNC 
> Cc: John Christopher 
> Subject: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal
> 
> All
> 
> I’m trying to install a a PSS shaft seal on my 1983 Landfall 38.
> 
> got reasonable access to V-Drive transmission , got everything ready , but 
> could not for the life of me remove shaft coupler , its really stuck on shaft 
> , and of course I need to be able to remove the shaft partially from boat to 
> install the dripless . 
> 
> I used everything I had including a 5 ton puller on shaft coupler using an 
> impact gun on the puller bolt screw at one point and it never budged AT ALL. 
> I Heated coupler with electric heat gun still never moved ..cant use gas 
> torches because the transmission seal is right there and it will get ruined.
> 
> Everything requires removing coupler first to proceed foward with dripless.
> 
> Boat is freshwater all it’s life, and I know they are dissimilar metals (SS 
> Shaft, steel coupler, bronze key (?).
> 
> Am I missing something? Is there a bolt or otherwise  somewhere that I am 
> missing?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John
> 
> 1983 Landfall 38, #155
> Ontario Canada
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Helicoils

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Yes, you drill the hole bigger and tap for the threads on the outside of
the helicoil or thread insert.  The other main advantage of using one of
these over just tapping for a larger bolt is in softer base materials
(aluminum, plastic) it will distribute the screw load and prevent it from
stripping in the first place, at least to a point or damaging the threads
when the screw is removed and reinserted.  This is especially important if
the screw is one that will be installed and removed every year.  I think
that there might also be an advantage in preventing a stainless steel screw
from seizing/corroding as it will tend to do over time in tapped aluminum,
at least in a salt water environment.  For that reason, I would tend toward
using a solid insert such as https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/3505
rather than a helicoil if putting a stainless steel screw into threaded
aluminum where I want to be sure I can get them apart again.  We had bolt
together reusable aluminum frames at my last job with M16 and M24 bolts and
used inserts for threaded holes in the aluminum - worked great and we never
had issues with stripping or galling of the threads.

~~~
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper


On Thu, May 14, 2020 at 10:18 PM Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi David
>
> Yes, allows the use of the original screw, so whatever is fastening to it
> doesn't have to be modified.
>
> Procedure is to drill and tap oversized, and install a helicoil -
> essentially a coil of square wire, wound up like a spring.  The wire
> engages in the new threads and is sized so that the original screw threads
> inside it.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2020-05-14 10:50 p.m., David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I have seen mention of helicoils several times on this list but I have no
> experience with them.  I have several stripped screws on my Harken furler
> and was thinking they might be useful to repair.  What is unclear to me
> from what I have read is the reason to use them.  I still have threads
> there, and I thought the idea was to screw in a helicoil to make the
> threads grab again.  However, every description I have seen of using them
> drills out the hole, taps and then screws in a helicoil.  I don’t get the
> point.  If I am going to drill and tap, why would I use a helicoil instead
> of just putting a screw into the newly tapped hole?  Is it that you can use
> the same size screw as before instead of going to a larger size?  Is that
> preferable for some reason?  Dave
>
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hi James,

I can't offer you specific advice from experience as I am just about to get
into the same project on my C 34.  I was able to get end grain balsa core
wood from Jamestown Distributors a few weeks ago
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/main.do - I have heard
that some people use marine plywood instead. Since my issues stem from an
impact above the head (spin pole dropped?) that wasn't repaired and failed
sealing around deck hardware in a few spots I figure replacing it with the
original material will be fine and keep things a little lighter.  Also the
balsa will contour into the curved sections nicely.  I wasn't sure what
thickness I would need so I bought a selection figuring I could build up
multiple layers if required and use it for other projects in the future.
I have vacuum bagging equipment (Jamestown sells a very nice vacuum pump
too) so I plan to use that for applying pressure rather than weighting it.
I am also planning pulling all the deck hardware to (drill larger and fill
with epoxy, then re-drill) and will repaint the entire deck in the
processes as well.  It is a big project, that is for sure - been waiting
for nice weather to get here.

The other supplier I use (for glass and peel ply and vacuum bagging
equipment is https://www.fibreglast.com/ - which is often a bit cheaper,
but they were out of the end grain balsa and said that there is a global
shortage right now.

Hope that helps and good luck with your project!

Nathan

~~~
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
Lynn MA


On Wed, May 6, 2020 at 1:14 PM James Bibb via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ok…had a zoom meeting with the Sailing club and we’re on a modified racing
> season this year for obvious reasons.  I’ve missed the window to do some
> needed deck repair as by the time the weather changes, it’s sailing season
> and I keep on pushing it off to next season not wanting to get into a major
> project to interrupt the fun.  This pandemic may offer an “off-season” to
> take the boat out of commission for a couple of weeks….so…
>
> Lot’s of good information over the past couple years from folks whom have
> replaced spongy decks….anybody have an actual source for core material as
> well as thickness?
>
> My spongy spots are right at the impact point after 30 years of
> racing…mast…foredeck and where folks get on and off the boat at mid-ship.
> I’m having on-going and worsening leaks around the mast and the deck
> hardware associated with the rigging.  I’m assuming a top down effort…cut
> and inspect…then make plans.
>
> I’m looking mainly for encouragement as I haven’t done deck repair at this
> scale before and it will involve the deck where the mast goes through.
>
> James Bibb
>
> 1991 34-36R Darwin’s Folly
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger at home?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I have this one which I am happy with. STANLEY BC25BS Fully Automatic 25... 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BYFSUJW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Does a good job of topping off batteries and then trickling them.  Also doesn’t 
require user to figure out what type of battery it is (AGM, gel or wet).

Nathan
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Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Some great info and good suggestions Rich. That is a very clever way of
bolting the conduit on the inside of the mast.  Thank you.  I am thinking I
will try using blind rivets - at least mostly - to hold the conduit in
place since that will be almost flush and avoid having a nut on the outside
of the mast.  However, I might use a few bolts following your method as you
suggest to hold things in place first which will likely make drilling and
riveting go smoother.

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34 CB
Lynn, MA
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Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Joe,

The cable tie method was my original plan - then started reading about it
and it seemed that conduit might be a superior long term solution - hence
starting this thread.  The cable ties will definitely be easier, faster,
and less expensive.  Biggest drawbacks are that I would have to prepare and
feed the whole bundle in from the bottom (preventing me from leaving a
large connector which came pre-installed on the top end of the cable since
I couldn't get it out of the mast) and that it is much harder to add
something else at a later time.  With .  I am still unsure what the
relative tangling/chafing hazards are with the internal halyards with each
approach.  In particular with conduit it isn't clear in my mind how to end
it in a "safe" way near the top of the mast (without taking the mast head
off which I am not keen on doing).

Thoughts?  Have you implemented the cable tie approach yourself?  Did it
work well for you over the long run?

Nathan

~~~
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34 CB
Lynn, MA
___

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Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

David,

I haven't tried it yet but am leaning in that direction.  The strategies I
have seen discussed on other forums involve assembling the conduit first
(gluing the sections together with a messenger line through it) and either
sliding it into the mast and then drilling and using blind rivets to attach
it.  Some say to drill an extra hold to use a wire hook and hold the
conduit in place while drilling and riveting.  It also seems possible that
the conduit will be stiff enough to stay in place for the next rivet once
the first two are done but I guess that remains to be seen when I try it.
If I need to drill the extra hole then I will just put a rivet in it
afterwards to plug it.  The alternative I have seen proposed is to put a
bead of 3M 4200 or sikaflex on the top of the conduit as you slide it in
the mast and then rotate the tube so that the adhesive contacts the mast
and bonds in place.   Not sure how good a bond quality you could get and it
would not be good if it came loose so I don't think I will do that.  Also
leaves a good chance of getting halyards and the like stuck.  There are
definitely some advantages over loose wires in the mast (which bang around)
and a zip tie bundle which creates potential issues with tangling the
halyards in various ways.  If I didn't have so many internal halyards I
would be less concerned about that.  I also want to be able to run the
cables from top to bottom since I have some larger connectors that came
pre-installed and don't really want to have to cut those off or make bigger
holes in the mast for them.

So that is the plan at this point.  Tasks are to figure out how large a
conduit will fit and what wall thickness to get - then to get appropriate
conduit and rivets and a messenger line to move forward.

Nathan

~~~
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34 CB
Lynn, MA

On Thu, Apr 9, 2020 at 7:31 AM David Risch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So let me understand this...folks have installed conduit for the length of
> the mast inside the mast...?  Thought of that but abandoned due to
> complexity or did I overthink?
>
> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Shawn
> Wright via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 8, 2020 11:22:38 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> *Cc:* Shawn Wright 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast
>
> I used CL200 for our irrigation system, as it was about half the price of
> CSA/UL approved schedule 40. It is definitely thinner, which in this case
> is a bonus. For water pipes, not so much, but I have >1000' in the ground
> and no leaks after the 10 years, except for those pipes I've hit with
> something. In my experience, schedule 40 has much higher strength and
> impact resistance, and schedule 80 even more so, but it's not an issue
> inside the mast. For making a support for a winter cover, I'd use sched 40.
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 8, 2020 at 9:06 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Yeah that CL 200 is the pvc which I have for reference.  When I pulled the
> upc off the side it came up as scheduled 40.  I don't know the difference.
> I've never really had to research pvc pipe so I'm a little out of my
> element.
>
> Josh
>
> On Wed, Apr 8, 2020, 11:27 Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I had hoped to pull our mast soon, but with the mast crane out of service
> due to covid, it will have to wait. Some great info on this thread, so I
> will save it.
>
> One option for thinner PVC is to use white (water) PVC, which you can get
> in a CL200 rating (at least in Canada) for light use; it is a bit thinner
> walled, and UV resistance is not an issue inside the mast. You could also
> seek out aluminum electrical conduit, which will be even thinner. Regarding
> sizing, I just installed two 3/4" conduits (grey electrical type) through
> the bilge for wiring, and was able to get the wiring for both Garmin and
> Standard horizon depth sounders through one conduit by staggering the
> connectors - two 7 pin DIN twist lock, and one RCA for the old SH unit.
> Once the connectors are through, there is plenty of space for smaller
> cables.
> Holding the conduit in place while drilling and riveting might be
> challenge also. Too bad the mast doesn't have a wire track like some of the
> newer ones.
>
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 7, 2020 at 3:30 PM Nathan Post via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> All,
>
> As one of my bo

Re: Stus-List securing cables in mast

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh,  Yes a windex light, masthead tricolor/anchor light and NEMA2000 
wind instruments are all part of the plan. Deck and steaming lights at the 
spreader along with the radar too. Hadn’t considered a wifi antenna but I have 
plenty of plenum cat6 around so I’ll include that - good suggestion.

I take it that you would attach the conduit to the front of the mast?  I was 
visualizing of tucking it toward the back. I’ll need to check how much space 
there is around the spreader support bar. There are also through bolts where 
the stays attach too. 
The schedule 40 pvc conduit That is readily available is probably overkill for 
this application and the joints add thickness.  Need to see what else I can 
find...

For bonding, currently the mast sits in an aluminum step that has a keel bold 
going through It with a washer and nut under the center of the mast.  Is that 
sufficient?  Would you recommend a ground strap in there too?  My DC system is 
bonded to the engine but not to the keel as far as I know.  I don’t use up 
zincs too quickly so I haven’t been tempted to change anything.

Thanks, Nathan

> On Apr 7, 2020, at 6:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Conduit is the only professional way to go.
> 
> You will be limited by the space in front of the spreader bars that support 
> the spreaders.  I would use standard thin wall pvc no needs for anything 
> thick and maximize the diameter.  If you're going to do it then make it the 
> best you can for the next guy... Who knows it might be you!
> 
> Yes a second conduit makes sense especially if you are ever going to have a 
> mast mounted radar.
> 
> This is exactly how the yard did my mast when they rebuilt it.
> 
> While you are in there consider spreader lights, long range wifi (cat-6), 
> windex light, and NMEA2000
> 
> You may also want to evaluate the current bonding situation for the mast.
> 
> I can give additional pointers or advice if desired. 
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Apr 7, 2020, 18:30 Nathan Post via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> All,
>> 
>> As one of my boat projects this spring I am replacing the electrical wiring 
>> in my mast.   The mast is currently down (horizontal) so now is the time to 
>> do it.  I want to secure the wires in the mast, in particular to reduce 
>> noise (when rocking at anchor).  Wisper is a 1981 C 34 with a keel stepped 
>> mast and 5 internal halyards in addition to the wires.  The cables are for 
>> wind instruments, masthead and steaming lights, VHF coax, and radar (power 
>> and communication) so it will be a substantial bundle with a separate drop 
>> at the spreader.  The two approaches I am considering are:
>> 
>> 1) Creating a bundle (wiring harness) of the cables and placing 3 large 
>> cable ties on the bundle at perhaps 2 or 3 foot intervals with the tails 
>> sticking out at 120 deg angles that will bend over and press against the 
>> mast and keep the cables in the middle.  I would use Panduit metal barb 
>> outdoor zip ties which are robust, smooth edged, and long lasting.
>> 
>> 2) Installing a PVC conduit (using rivets?) with a feeder line for the 
>> cables and then running the cables through it.
>> 
>> There is support of both methods in various forums online.  Cable ties are 
>> definitely the simpler method.  The main advantages to the conduit that I 
>> see is being able to run an additional wire through it at a later time 
>> potentially with the mast up.  Also I might be able to run cables from top 
>> to bottom so that a large connector can remain preinstalled on the top (for 
>> example for the radar unit) rather than needing to feed everything in to the 
>> bottom at once and then fishing the ends out the various small holes in the 
>> mast and reattaching connectors.  The disadvantage is the effort required to 
>> install it and the additional holes I would need to create in the mast.  I 
>> am also unsure how quiet either solution would be and the relative chance of 
>> tangling or extra friction or wear on a halyard although most info on-line 
>> seems to indicate that the conduit is the better choice for that.
>> 
>> With the conduit approach, I am also debating if two smaller conduits - one 
>> to the spreader and one to the mast head - would make more sense than having 
>> a hole in large conduit at the spreader location.
>> 
>> Has anyone done either of these securing approaches?  What are your thoughts 
>> on the success?  How much does it silence the cables?  Is the effort for the 
>> conduit worth it?  
>> 

Stus-List securing cables in mast

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

All,

As one of my boat projects this spring I am replacing the electrical wiring
in my mast.   The mast is currently down (horizontal) so now is the time to
do it.  I want to secure the wires in the mast, in particular to reduce
noise (when rocking at anchor).  Wisper is a 1981 C 34 with a keel
stepped mast and 5 internal halyards in addition to the wires.  The cables
are for wind instruments, masthead and steaming lights, VHF coax, and radar
(power and communication) so it will be a substantial bundle with a
separate drop at the spreader.  The two approaches I am considering are:

1) Creating a bundle (wiring harness) of the cables and placing 3 large
cable ties on the bundle at perhaps 2 or 3 foot intervals with the tails
sticking out at 120 deg angles that will bend over and press against the
mast and keep the cables in the middle.  I would use Panduit metal barb
outdoor zip ties which are robust, smooth edged, and long lasting.

2) Installing a PVC conduit (using rivets?) with a feeder line for the
cables and then running the cables through it.

There is support of both methods in various forums online.  Cable ties are
definitely the simpler method.  The main advantages to the conduit that I
see is being able to run an additional wire through it at a later time
potentially with the mast up.  Also I might be able to run cables from top
to bottom so that a large connector can remain preinstalled on the top (for
example for the radar unit) rather than needing to feed everything in to
the bottom at once and then fishing the ends out the various small holes in
the mast and reattaching connectors.  The disadvantage is the effort
required to install it and the additional holes I would need to create in
the mast.  I am also unsure how quiet either solution would be and the
relative chance of tangling or extra friction or wear on a halyard although
most info on-line seems to indicate that the conduit is the better choice
for that.

With the conduit approach, I am also debating if two smaller conduits - one
to the spreader and one to the mast head - would make more sense than
having a hole in large conduit at the spreader location.

Has anyone done either of these securing approaches?  What are your
thoughts on the success?  How much does it silence the cables?  Is the
effort for the conduit worth it?

Thanks,
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34 CB
Lynn MA, USA
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Re: Stus-List 1981 C 34 - second propane locker?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Dennis,
That is interesting - on my 1981 C 34 there is a second propane locker on the 
port side - I keep a spare propane tank in it. It has a drain to outside the 
hull above water line same as on starboard.  Assuming you have the through hull 
on the outside on port, I would guess that a previous owner glued/painted the 
lid down and you just need to pry it open.  The hinges are symmetric about the 
helm seat on my boat.
Hope that helps,
Nathan

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper, Lynn MA
1981 C 34 CB


> On Feb 18, 2020, at 8:44 PM, DMcMillan via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> My 1981 C 34 has a propane locker on the starboard side of the helm seat.  
> The locker has a hinged lid.  On the port side of the helm seat there is a 
> similar seat but the “lid” does not open.  Has anyone opened this up and 
> utilized the space for storage? 
>  
> Thanks.
> Dennis
> Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List New thought re: anchor light?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I bought these bow lights for my 1981 C 34 last fall:

https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=whitecap-led-side-lights-flush-mount=-1|65136|2312550|2312557=2650416

They are a drop in replacement fixture for the original in-hull bow running 
lights on my boat but sealed with LEDs.  I have yet to actually install them 
but did hold it up against the existing lights and it is the same shape, size 
and screw locations.  Seem well built out of stainless and glass.  On the list 
of spring projects. I have the mast down this winter and plan to add a tricolor 
to the top as well.  

The relay idea for automatic operation of the steaming light is a really good 
one - I might have to give that a shot when I wire everything back together.

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34CB
Lynn, MA

> On Feb 5, 2020, at 12:23 AM, Donald Kern via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>  Shawn,
> Where did you get the bulb holders for the original hull "eye" lights? Mine 
> need replacing and have not found a source.
> Don Kern
> Fireball C 35 mk2
> Bristol RI
> 
> On 2/4/2020 11:06 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
>> Sorry, a bit confusing. Yes, I have two sets of bow lights - the original 
>> in-hull "eye" lights which are currently not functional, and a bi-colour 
>> light hanging from the pulpit, which I don't like. I have new bulb holders 
>> for the original lights, so I will try to get them going again, or at least 
>> that's the plan. First, I want to do a hose test on them to see if they 
>> leak, as I suspect they do. If they can't be sealed well enough, they may 
>> have to go also...
>> 
>> Alternatively, I need to replace the pulpit with a welded one, as the 
>> original is in rough shape and the bronze fittings are worn out. I have seen 
>> some nice compact LED bow lights integrated into newer pulpits, so that is 
>> an option too. 
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
>> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>> ___
>>> 
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>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List New Sails...

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

David,

I purchased new Dacron cruising sails (main and 135% genoa) for our 34 last 
spring for the 2019 season.  After getting quotes and discussing it with 
several suppliers including North Sails and Precision I decided to go with 
Doyle Sails in Salem MA.  Chris Howes at Doyle worked with me on the quote and 
throughout the process.  It was a positive experience and I am very pleased 
with the end result.  I would highly recommend Doyle as a local MA sail loft.

We selected the Durasail product line for the main and genoa - both using cross 
cut Dacron.  In the case of the main, they used a 7.62 oz HA (high aspect) 
material which is designed to take the additional vertical load from the aspect 
ratio of the sail.  I think that it has more fiber in the vertical direction 
than the horizontal direction.  The new sail was designed with a loose foot 
which really helps with making the outhaul effective.  Four full battens, two 
sets of reef points and attachment of the luff track slides from my old sail 
were all included.  The Genoa is 7.77 oz “Marblehead constructed” and included 
a sun cover and luff flatter for reefing by partial furling were included.  The 
sun cover on the furling genoa is a relatively thin material that is white and 
unlike Sunbrella doesn’t weigh down the sail significantly - it is hard to 
notice it is there if you are not looking for it.  They also included sail bags 
and a full collection of sail ties, C logo and pre-installed a complete set 
of tell-tails on both sails!  The set of main and genoa cost around $5000 + tax 
if I remember correctly for my boat - your boat is larger and it is a year 
later so presumably will be more.

Doyle makes sails both in Salem and in Jamaica.  I specifically requested that 
they make the sails locally in Salem and they were fine with doing that (and 
didn’t charge a premium).  I was able to take my old sails to their loft to 
have them measured and I picked up the new sails at the same location so there 
wasn’t any shipping charge (did have to pay MA sales tax of course).  Also 
Doyle finished the sails significantly earlier than they quoted me and well 
before the start of the season.  I also appreciated that they took me seriously 
and gave really good customer service even though this was a small order for 
them (at least judging by what they had going on in the loft at the time).

North sails quote was initially a lot more although they came down quite a bit 
(to just slightly more than Doyle’s price) when the sales person learned of the 
price point I had selected - but they also had a long lead time quoted that 
would have been well into the middle of the season for us.  Hint - it can be 
worth pitting one maker against another - they seem to have some ability to 
adjust pricing so negotiating is definitely an option.  Precision’s base quote 
came in much cheeper than Doyle although by time you add in all the extra’s to 
the same rough quality and components provided by Doyle, it is unclear if it 
would have been less expensive (it was hard to make an apples to apples 
comparison since they were using different materials and the details were 
different).  Precision charges separately for each “additional" thing including 
reinforcements, reef points, etc. - all of that is included by default from 
Doyle.  Overall I really appreciated the service and knowledge of having a 
local loft do the work and I also liked supporting the local economy.  I would 
definitely go with Doyle again next time I need a sail.

New sails are great to have and after one season on the boat they still look 
and feel almost new so I think that they will last a long time!

That’s my two cents,
Nathan

S/V Wisper 
1981 C 34
Lynn, MA___

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Re: Stus-List Winter storage & lingering decisions

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Has anyone tried a garboard plug on a centerboard version C keel?  Where did 
you put it?  I like the idea of keeping the bilge dry in the winter on the hard 
but am not sure how well it would work with the flat/wide bilge on the boat 
with the keel bolts down each side.  Where would I put it?  It would almost be 
ideal if I could go straight down the into the center board trunk but not sure 
if that would work (how long would the hole have to be?) or how to plug it. 
Thoughts?

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34 CB
Lynn, MA USA
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I managed to salvage the teak and holly floor on my boat with a bunch of 
sanding and then revarnishing. I glued the plywood back together where it was 
delaminating near the edge and ended up sanding through the the holly stops 
near a few edges where it was in rough shape but it still looks pretty good and 
has been very functional.  Depending on how bad it is you might want to try 
just salvaging what is there.

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn, MA
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Re: Stus-List Smelly head

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I went as far as putting in a y selector on the intake hose for the head and 
plumbing it the to fresh water tank with a back flow preventer so that the head 
flushed with fresh water.  That is easier than using the sprayer for flushing. 
There is a little more resistance when in wet flush mode but it works great and 
has really cut down on odor (along with replacing hoses).  Of course we are at 
a dock so filling the fresh water tank more often isn’t a big deal. I put the y 
valve in so that for longer trips it can be switched back to seawater if 
desired.

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C
Lynn MA USA

> On Oct 2, 2019, at 7:46 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The Jabsco head has a small spring in the wet/dry lever mechanism. If it’s 
> weak, you may experience resistance when pumping. 
> 
> Like another lister said, replace the ENTIRE pump assembly. It’s $92 on 
> Amazon. You’ll be happy.  It’s a 20 minute job. 
> 
> Dennis C. 
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List New Rudder Steering Tugging

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

For one thing the offset shaft makes  it so that you can get the shaft out 
without pulling the rudder. This is a very nice feature I took advantage of 
when installing a shaft seal last year.  On the other hand my 34 definitely 
does pull a bit when motoring.  I try to motor as little as possible so it 
isn’t that big a deal.

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn, MA

> On Sep 16, 2019, at 11:38 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> A lot of C (including my 42 and my prior 34) have the shaft offset just a 
> bit to cause what you’re describing.  Perhaps Rob can explain why they did 
> that.
>  
> From: Dan via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, September 16, 2019 11:20 AM
> To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
> Cc: Dan
> Subject: Stus-List New Rudder Steering Tugging
>  
> Hi all,
> So I recently rebuilt my rudder and re-installed it on Breakaweigh.
> We took the boat out yesterday and I noticed when under diesel power that the 
> wheel is lightly tugging to the port side. I'm not entirely sure if it did 
> that before or if this is a new tugging. If I were to completely let go of 
> the wheel the boat would automatically start a broad turn to port just like 
> your car is supposed to always veer to one side to get you off the road (so 
> I've heard)
>  
> My question is - is this due to the movement/rotation of water from the prop 
> at 2000 rpm moving water accross the rudder (is this a typical rudder/prop 
> thing?) OR do I need to adjust the tension in my rudder cables, OR is my 
> rudder very slightly miss-shapen causing a minor lift" to one side?
>  
> When I re-attached the rudder I referenced photos I took of my rudder cables 
> where they are attached to the quadrant before hand so I could closely  match 
> the threading on each side so that the tensions would be the same as before. 
> (theoretically)
>  
> Thanks everyone,
>  
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C
> Halifax, NS
>  
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Re: Stus-List 1981 C 34

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Steve,

I have a 1981 C CB version which we bought in June 2018. It is a fun boat 
which sails really well and is comfortable for coastal cruising. 

Prices vary a lot with condition and what it comes with and where you are 
located. Mine was pretty bare bones with old main and jib (had a sail loft fix 
them only to have new rips a few months later), broken water heater, broken 
propane system, head hoses needed to be replaced, missing parts and had been 
sitting on the hard for 2 years so the cushions we mildewed etc. the hull is 
solid with no soft spots although there are some problem areas in the deck that 
I want to fix at some point.  Westerbeker 20B2 diesel engine had a bad fuel 
pump relay which was a $30 part, but it was not running when we bought the boat 
because of that.  

We paid $7500 US for the boat. Not sure if that was a good deal in the end or 
not. We put ~11k in so far (not counting marina costs, haul and storage fees) 
and lots of sweat equity in getting most systems working over the last year, 
including new WH, water pump, battery shore charger, rebuilt prop, dripless 
shaft seal, new foam in the cushions, new cruising sails, some new running 
rigging, fenders, dock lines, buying safety equipment, a rigid vang, etc. etc. 
So we have an $18k boat at this point which is mostly in working order although 
there are always things that need fixing and enhancements that would be nice. I 
didn’t realize how much a dodger would cost (~5k) and we don’t  have one so if 
your boat comes with one in decent shape that is worth a bit.  Same goes for a 
working autopilot and self-tailing winches.

Old boats always can always use more boat bucks so plan on that.  It might be 
better to buy a boat where the previous owner did a bunch of the upgrades - on 
the other hand I get new stuff the way I want it. In any case, if the sails are 
crispy and all systems are working and it is reasonably well equipped and clean 
then something in the $16-$24k US range might be reasonable I think.  Lots of 
recent upgrades, good sail selection, and very clean, then maybe even a bit 
more. If not, then it should be significantly less I think but you will put 
most of that money in regardless. 

Hope that helps.  Not sure how the market compares further north.  Get a survey 
done and if it looks good  get it and have fun sailing!

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper 
1981 C 34
Lynn, MA, USA

> On Aug 23, 2019, at 2:04 PM, Stephen via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I live in Nova Scotia and have the opportunity to purchase a C 34. Assuming 
> that the boat is in good condition with no major structural issues, what 
> would be a reasonable price range?
> The pictures show a clean boat which looks like it’s been well maintained. It 
> does have the Yanmar diesel and the current owner says the sails are in good 
> shape.
> Thanks in advance for your responses.
> Steve McCarthy 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Oil pressure alarm on Westerbeke 20B2

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the feedback and info folks - sure enough it was the oil 
pressure switch (actually the electrical connection tab to connect to it had 
broken rather than the internal switch itself) - should have been obvious if I 
had been looking in the right place.  Anyway, new switch, 5 minute 
installation, and we are  back in business!

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn, MA
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Re: Stus-List Oil pressure alarm on Westerbeke 20B2

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Dennis,

The alarm was pulsing - like it does when you first turn the key on - so I am 
pretty sure it is the oil pressure.  Can’t get back out to the boat until next 
week but I’ll check that circuit out with an ohm meter then.  Based on what 
Josh said that it is a “alarm when not connected” circuit, then any 
disconnection in the wire to or from the switch or buzzer would result it 
continuous alarm state (or it could be the switch).  Westerbeke stocks the oil 
pressure switch for this engine (and it was $35 so I went ahead and ordered it).

Nathan
S/V Wisper 
1981 C 34
Lynn MA, USA
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Re: Stus-List Oil pressure alarm on Westerbeke 20B2

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Thanks for the good advice and info. I’ll check out the wiring and switches for 
the oil and temp alarms with an ohm meter.
Nathan
S/V Wisper
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Stus-List Oil pressure alarm on Westerbeke 20B2

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hello,

On the way back to the marina this evening the oil pressure alarm went off 
after having motored about 10 minutes (and previously an hour earlier motored 
20 minutes or so out).  I have a Westerbeke 20B2 diesel in my boat.  We have 
the admiral style control panel so that has both the temperature and oil 
pressure gauges as well as the alar buzzer.  Everything looked normal on the 
gauges with the oil pressure reading about 40 psi at 2500-2700 rpm (manual says 
35 - 60 is normal so maybe slightly on the low side but still in range).  The 
same buzzer is connected to the over temperature alarm as well but temperature 
also seemed fine and cooling water was flowing.  I shut down the engine and 
checked the oil level - which was just fine, right where it had been earlier in 
the day at the full mark.  Given that we were in the middle of the channel and 
everything seemed to check out I ended up deciding to start her again and 
motored the remaining 10 minutes or so back to the marina (with the buzzer 
going the whole time).  The oil pressure stayed at 40 psi until I slowed her to 
an idle at which point it dropped to 25-30 psi.  I think that is pretty 
typical.  According the the manual the buzzer should sound at below 10 psi as 
it does when you first start the engine.

My question is:  Do I assume that the sending switch for the oil pressure alarm 
is faulty and order a replacement?  Is there anything else I should check or 
verify to ensure that the oil pump is in fact working correctly and the oil is 
getting distributed through the engine?  Is there another part I should look 
into that could be causing this behavior?

Thanks!
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper 
1981 C
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Re: Stus-List Propane Solenoid

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Mine was 1/4 inch fittings if I remember correctly. Also when I had that 
problem I found that my solenoid was fine - the pressure regulator was shot and 
no longer let gas through so I suggest checking that first.  Disconnect hose 
before the solenoid and see if gas will flow through it. 

Also check if you have voltage at the solenoid - it could be a wiring or 
breaker fault. The solenoid should get warm to the touch when on. 

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper C 34
Lynn MA USA

> On May 28, 2019, at 9:15 AM, David Risch via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> No response from stove so assume it’s the ancient solenoid.  Anybody know if 
> we are ¼ or 3/8 hose size for the three burner oven to replace same?
>  
> Thanks in advance.
>  
> David F. Risch
> Gulf Stream Associates
> (401) 419-4650
>  
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Re: Stus-List Split propeller coupling

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I installed something similar to that on my 34.  I ended up with the Buck 
Algonquin one instead cause that is what the shop had in stock, something like 
https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/split-marine-transmission-coupling-50401s1250?gclid=Cj0KCQjwhuvlBRCeARIsAM720Hq3qLvxJHYSic4AWJVJlO-IPKKMgdGfJr5HjDWzpnIgkkCipTVrGUgaAoyfEALw_wcB
 Since it isn’t split all the way it still has to be fit and faced and I still 
had to tap it onto the end of the shaft during instal which wasn’t easy.   
Probably was easier than without and I like that the bolt heads are less likely 
to strip compared to the square things in the old coupler. Hoping you are right 
that it will come
off easier when the time comes (had to cut the old one off the shaft).   Sub 
ideal solution if you ask me that it isn’t fully split into two parts but I 
guess it is too hard to ensure it is centered to prevent vibration of they do 
that.  Also not clear to me why they don’t make these out of stainless - 
obviously cost but still. I probably should have painted the outside before 
installing it but I was under too much pressure to get the boat out of the yard 
it was in at the time so I just threw it in and we went.

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
C 34

> On Apr 20, 2019, at 3:37 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Anyone have any experience using a split propeller coupling? 
> Looks like a neat solution to the jamming problems associated with the 
> traditional couplings. 
> Might also be less likely to work loose when recently assembled.  
> 
> This is what I am looking at: 
> 
> https://www.generalpropeller.com/inboard-shafts-and-couplings/RD-Split-Couplings/202-254
> 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> C 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Leaks and ceiling panels

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hi Adam,

I replaced my ceiling panels with 3/16 starboard.  Tho fiberglass wall panels 
from Home Depot are very flimsy so I was concerned they would rattle or sag 
over time if I didn’t laminate them to something else. Starboard was easy to 
cut on my table saw and round the corners with a router or hand plane.  I used 
the old panels as a template. Starboard is a bit heavier than the original 
plywood but it isn’t that big a difference.  I Screwed them back in with flat 
head sheet metal screws and stainless steel decorative washers.  Reasonably 
happy with the result and should be maintenance free.  Get the starboard from 
McMastercarr they have the 3/16 and it is - lot cheaper than the boat places 
generally. Since shipping was a lot for a big sheet I did the larger panels in 
two pieces out of 2x4 foot stock if I remember correctly.  The white panels 
help to brighten the interior a lot.

Not sure what to tell you on the leaks - I am having similar problems with 
water getting in above the port bulkhead (and elsewhere) and haven’t solved it 
yet either.  Wondering if it might be coming in around the mast collar plate. 
Need to investigate further at some point. 

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper C
Lynn MA, USA

> On Apr 20, 2019, at 6:26 AM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello Listers
> 
> We have pretty major water intrusion coming in on the port side by the 
> bulkhead in the salon of our C 36. The water is gathering on the edge of 
> the fibreglass headliner and running into the storage cupboards.  I have 
> rebedded the chain plates and handrails.  The stanchions are too far 
> outboard.  Any suggestions?
> 
> Also this has been discussed before.  Has anyone replaced ceiling panels and 
> used velcro to hold them in?  What was the best material? I have thought of 
> those fibreglass panels found at home depot but seems pretty messy to cut.  
> 
> Adam
> 
> 
> 
> Get Outlook for Android
> 
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Re: Stus-List 34 genoa sheets

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I selected 1/2 inch for the genoa sheets on my 34. I am sure 7/16 would be 
adequate, but I like the larger diameter for hand tailing (we don’t have self 
tailing winches).

Nathan
S/V Wisper C
Lynn, MA USA


> On Apr 5, 2019, at 7:18 AM, Rod Stright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Check out Cajun ropes awesome prices and good rope 
> https://www.facebook.com/CajunRopes/?ref=br_rs
>  
> Rod
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of John and Maryann 
> Read via CnC-List
> Sent: April-05-19 8:16 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: John and Maryann Read 
> Subject: Stus-List 34 genoa sheets
>  
> Am replacing genoa sheets but uncertain of correct size.   Currently use ½ 
> inch but seem a bit oversize.  Plan to get Sta set or similar with soft 
> shackle.  What size do other 34 / 33 owners use?
>  
>  
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C 34
> Noank, CT
>  
>  
> 
>   Virus-free. www.avast.com
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Reversing my newport 41 Mk1 1977 Trinity

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

On my 34 I found I have a lot of prop walk in reverse (worse than other boats I 
have helmed - probably due to the two blade folding prop).  I had a slip last 
summer that only made sense to go in forward (we only have a gate on starboard 
and the finger to starboard).  I tried a strategy that was discussed on the 
list last summer and found that it worked really well for me because I could 
get the boat moving backwards and get steerage before putting it in reverse:

1) take a long spring line from the bow and loop it around a dock cleat near 
the stern and take it back up on deck to my primary winch and cleat it. 
2) Put the engine in gear forward and adjust the helm to hold the bow in place 
and remove all other dock lines (the engine and spring line hold the boat in 
place).  
3) With all crew on board, put engine in neutral, center the helm, and start 
pulling the spring line in the cockpit (around the winch).  This gets the boat 
moving backwards.  Keep pulling until the cleat on the dock is even with the 
winch and then flip the line off the cleat.
4) once the line is off the cleat with the boat already moving back I can put 
her in reverse and accelerate backwards.
This works for single handing and with a crew managing the spring line - avoids 
having an inexperienced crew trying to jump on board after the boat is moving.

Having the boat moving so the rudder is working as a foil before putting it in 
reverse was the key to avoiding the stern going sideways into my neighbor 
rather than backwards.

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper, 1981 C
Malden MA


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Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing for C 34

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

This is the one that I put in my 1981 34 this summer: 
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C311%7C2349117%7C2351343=3032966
1 inch ID, 1-1/4 inch OD. 4 inches is a little long but I just let it stick out 
half an inch rather than trying to cut it.

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Malden, MA

> On Oct 26, 2018, at 11:07 AM, Dennis Shaw Account via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am replacing the cutless bearing on our 1981 C 34 next week and need to 
> pre-order the cutless bearing as we are only hauled out for a day.   It is a 
> 1 inch shaft – does anyone know what the outside diameter of the bearing is 
> as they come in different OD’s.
>  
> Thanks
> Dennis
> Andante
> C 34
> Victoria BC
>  
>  
>  
>  
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List C 33-2: PYI shaft seal

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Not sure regarding the 33-2 but I was able to just fit a PYI shaft seal in my 
34.  It took perhaps an inch or so more space along the shaft than the original 
stuffing box.  Once installed and assembled with the right pressure on the 
bellows I have an inch or so between the PYI and the end of the coupling.  

I installed it this summer after buying the boat because the stuffing box was 
in rough shape so that needed replacing anyway - it was brutal getting the 
coupling off of the shaft (I had to cut it off with a grinder and then have a 
new one fit and faced to the shaft - which apparently is standard practice 
although I didn’t know that when I started the project).  So it isn’t a small 
job in the end.  Also, there was just nearly enough room so I had to assemble 
the PYI loosely with the shaft just poking through it, then put the new 
coupling in place and tap the shaft into coupling (one person outside tapping, 
the other inside keeping it aligned and watching for the dimple when it is 
slide in far enough).  I got a split coupling (it is actually only partially 
split) which helps a lot but it still take hammering on it to get it through.  
Definitely recommend the split coupling though and I am hopeful that I might 
have more luck pressing it off next time it comes to that.

The final task was running a 3/8” hose from the PYI up 2 ft above water line.  
You want to keep it as centered as possible so I went to the and then up 
between the cockpit and the transom inside the hull and secured it to one of 
the air vents with a few zip ties.  

Doesn’t leak or get hot so I am happy with it overall.  But it was a big 
project and the bellows are supposed to be replaced ever 5-6 years I think.  I 
would definitely take a look if there is an option that doesn’t require 
disassembly of the shaft.

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper 
C 34
Malden, MA


> On Oct 18, 2018, at 9:14 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have a Max-Prop, a R coupling isolator, R engine mounts, and I have a 
> PYI shaft seal - all the same company.  I generally like the engineering and 
> customer support and like the shaft seal fine.  That being said, I would 
> suggest taking a look at the Sailor Sam's shaft seal.  As the vendor 
> described to me at the boat show you can evidently replace the "packing" 
> (carbon rings) with it installed and in the water.  Some of the models do not 
> require the tension of a rubber bellows but rather have a physical metal 
> spring that maintains pressure.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Thu, Oct 18, 2018, 8:49 PM Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Any 33-2 owners with the PYI dripless shaft seal?
> 
> Will it fit?
> 
> We're looking at overhauling the packing gland and considering replacing it 
> altogether.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Adrian Humphreys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Good thinking John.  I’ll assess that gap a bit more carefully next time I am 
out.  Thanks, Nathan


> On Aug 7, 2018, at 8:33 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Nathan
>  
> On our 34, there is a reason why the head is a foot or so below the top; of 
> the mast.  It is to provide room for the sail headboard to fit between the 
> aft edge of the mast and the backstay.  Keep that in mind as you are thinking 
> of altering things
>  
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C 34
> Noank, CT
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nathan 
> Post via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 11:12 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Nathan Post
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?
>  
> Thanks for all the great feedback on this.  On my boat as with some of the 
> others the goose neck is attached with a bunch of machine screws - not welded 
> so I expect it should be straight forward to move it up - simply drill and 
> tap new holes in the mast.  I could put some screws in the old holes to 
> "fill" them.   Thinking about height of the boom for flaking/covering the 
> sail and attaching the halyard to the head are important considerations - 
> I'll make a few measurements/trials and see how much higher makes sense to go 
> based on that.  Other boats I have sailed on have had the top batten catch on 
> the back stay and while annoying there are ways to shake it loose as 
> suggested so not that big a deal to me (not planning on any short course 
> racing with lots of tacks).  Raising the clew helps with cockpit clearance, 
> but not with vang angle so that is a consideration and if just raising the 
> clue that would also mean installing new reef points in the sail if we wanted 
> to keep the same angle when reefed so raising the gooseneck seems to be the 
> way to go in my case.
>  
> Thanks!
>  
> Nathan
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C 34
> Lynn, MA
>  
> On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 10:42 AM Randy Stafford  
> wrote:
> Hi Nathan,
> 
> A previous owner raised the boom on my 30-1 by exactly one foot, comparing 
> former and current gooseneck bracket hole patterns on the mast, probably as a 
> safety and comfort choice.  Later HINs than mine (I have hull #7) came from 
> the factory with that modification - the boom a foot higher than on the early 
> HINs.
> 
> Like Dennis, I have no way of comparing boat feel before and after.  But I 
> have no complaints about the way my boat sails.  I’m 6’2” and the boom just 
> clears my head on tacks and gybes, with the vang set for a level boom.  I 
> added a vang and it forms a 30-60-90 triangle or better (wouldn’t have been 
> possible with a lower boom).  Standing on the cabintop I have no problem 
> reaching the headboard to shackle the halyard or put on / take off the sail 
> cover.
> 
> My previous mainsail always looked short in the foot to me.  I wondered if 
> the previous owner who raised the boom cut off the bottom 12” of the sail 
> resulting in a shorter foot.  This year I got a new mainsail and made the 
> foot as long as possible given the boom-end, screw-drive outhaul system on 
> the original 30-1 roller-reefing boom.  I have the occasional problem with 
> the top batten catching the backstay in light wind, but in those conditions I 
> have the backstay adjusted loose and can just jiggle the backstay to let the 
> batten pass.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> 
> > On Aug 7, 2018, at 6:32 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > All,
> > 
> > Having sailed our 1981 C 34 a few times and while looking into having a 
> > dodger and bimini made for her I am considering  raising the boom about 8 
> > to 10 inches. Good idea or bad idea?  Has anyone done this on their boat?
> > 
> > We are only planning on cruising, not racing. The current full batten 
> > mainsail (which is probably a used replacement as the sail number on it 
> > doesn’t correspond to the boat) falls well short of the masthead when fully 
> > raised and the head is about 18 inches below of the top of the track so 
> > there is plenty of room up there without recutting it.  At its current 
> > height the boom is about eye level for me when standing and my wife bumps 
> > her head if she is not careful - getting it above head height would be nice 
> > for comfort and would also allow the dodger to be a bit higher.
> > 
> > I know raising the main higher will hurt performance a bit in windy 
> > conditions, but I am not sure how much it will degrade the handling or 
> > balance.  It will also c

Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

 Thanks for all the great feedback on this.  On my boat as with some of the
others the goose neck is attached with a bunch of machine screws - not
welded so I expect it should be straight forward to move it up - simply
drill and tap new holes in the mast.  I could put some screws in the old
holes to "fill" them.   Thinking about height of the boom for
flaking/covering the sail and attaching the halyard to the head are
important considerations - I'll make a few measurements/trials and see how
much higher makes sense to go based on that.  Other boats I have sailed on
have had the top batten catch on the back stay and while annoying there are
ways to shake it loose as suggested so not that big a deal to me (not
planning on any short course racing with lots of tacks).  Raising the clew
helps with cockpit clearance, but not with vang angle so that is a
consideration and if just raising the clue that would also mean installing
new reef points in the sail if we wanted to keep the same angle when reefed
so raising the gooseneck seems to be the way to go in my case.

Thanks!

Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn, MA

On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 10:42 AM Randy Stafford 
wrote:

> Hi Nathan,
>
> A previous owner raised the boom on my 30-1 by exactly one foot, comparing
> former and current gooseneck bracket hole patterns on the mast, probably as
> a safety and comfort choice.  Later HINs than mine (I have hull #7) came
> from the factory with that modification - the boom a foot higher than on
> the early HINs.
>
> Like Dennis, I have no way of comparing boat feel before and after.  But I
> have no complaints about the way my boat sails.  I’m 6’2” and the boom just
> clears my head on tacks and gybes, with the vang set for a level boom.  I
> added a vang and it forms a 30-60-90 triangle or better (wouldn’t have been
> possible with a lower boom).  Standing on the cabintop I have no problem
> reaching the headboard to shackle the halyard or put on / take off the sail
> cover.
>
> My previous mainsail always looked short in the foot to me.  I wondered if
> the previous owner who raised the boom cut off the bottom 12” of the sail
> resulting in a shorter foot.  This year I got a new mainsail and made the
> foot as long as possible given the boom-end, screw-drive outhaul system on
> the original 30-1 roller-reefing boom.  I have the occasional problem with
> the top batten catching the backstay in light wind, but in those conditions
> I have the backstay adjusted loose and can just jiggle the backstay to let
> the batten pass.
>
> Best Regards,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> > On Aug 7, 2018, at 6:32 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > All,
> >
> > Having sailed our 1981 C 34 a few times and while looking into having
> a dodger and bimini made for her I am considering  raising the boom about 8
> to 10 inches. Good idea or bad idea?  Has anyone done this on their boat?
> >
> > We are only planning on cruising, not racing. The current full batten
> mainsail (which is probably a used replacement as the sail number on it
> doesn’t correspond to the boat) falls well short of the masthead when fully
> raised and the head is about 18 inches below of the top of the track so
> there is plenty of room up there without recutting it.  At its current
> height the boom is about eye level for me when standing and my wife bumps
> her head if she is not careful - getting it above head height would be nice
> for comfort and would also allow the dodger to be a bit higher.
> >
> > I know raising the main higher will hurt performance a bit in windy
> conditions, but I am not sure how much it will degrade the handling or
> balance.  It will also change the main sheet angle a bit and reduce the
> effectiveness of the cabin top traveler but with installing a new vang I
> don’t think that will be so important.  However, I love how well balanced
> the boat is - she sails beautifully - so I don’t want to mess that up.
> >
> > Thoughts?
> > Thanks,
> > Nathan
> >
> > S/V Wisper
> > 1981 C 34
> > Lynn, MA
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
>
>
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Stus-List Raising the boom?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

All,

Having sailed our 1981 C 34 a few times and while looking into having a 
dodger and bimini made for her I am considering  raising the boom about 8 to 10 
inches. Good idea or bad idea?  Has anyone done this on their boat?

We are only planning on cruising, not racing. The current full batten mainsail 
(which is probably a used replacement as the sail number on it doesn’t 
correspond to the boat) falls well short of the masthead when fully raised and 
the head is about 18 inches below of the top of the track so there is plenty of 
room up there without recutting it.  At its current height the boom is about 
eye level for me when standing and my wife bumps her head if she is not careful 
- getting it above head height would be nice for comfort and would also allow 
the dodger to be a bit higher.

I know raising the main higher will hurt performance a bit in windy conditions, 
but I am not sure how much it will degrade the handling or balance.  It will 
also change the main sheet angle a bit and reduce the effectiveness of the 
cabin top traveler but with installing a new vang I don’t think that will be so 
important.  However, I love how well balanced the boat is - she sails 
beautifully - so I don’t want to mess that up.

Thoughts?
Thanks,
Nathan 

S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn, MA
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Re: Stus-List Wisper has launched!

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Got it - vang. I’ll contact Garhuhauer next week. 

Any thoughts on how much purchase we would want?


> On Jul 28, 2018, at 10:44 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Read bang! Damn autocorrect!
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 28, 2018, at 2:44 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Recommend you look at Garhauer for your bang.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jul 28, 2018, at 2:08 PM, Nathan Post via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi All,
>>> 
>>> We finally have Wisper - our 1981 C 34 CB we purchased in May in the 
>>> water!  Excited to take her for a first sail tomorrow from Scituate up to 
>>> Lynn MA where we will be keeping her this season.  She was left on the hard 
>>> by previously owner for two years so lots of cleaning and lots of projects 
>>> completed, and of course still more to do.  A few highlights on where we 
>>> are at:
>>> 
>>> Thanks to everyone for the feedback previously on the rudder - after 
>>> drilling holes and draining I determined that it was definitely still solid 
>>> and that the best thing to do was leave it as is - sealed up the holes with 
>>> Thixo epoxy and then some barrier coat.  This fall when she is pulled I 
>>> think I’ll install a couple of plugs to make draining easier in the future 
>>> since keeping the water out doesn’t sound like a realistic possibility in 
>>> the long run.
>>> 
>>> Refinished the cabin sole, replaced the removing ceiling panels with 3/16” 
>>> Starboard.  Had the sails cleaned and mended.  Replaced the glow plug 
>>> solenoid which had partially failed - the glow plugs were still getting 
>>> power, but the electric fuel pump which it also runs was not.  Replaced the 
>>> waste hoses and rebuilt the head.
>>> 
>>> I have also been following the bilge pump discussion and decided to install 
>>> a primary 3.5 gal/min Whale diagram pump with a large low profile screen 
>>> inlet and WaterWitch in addition to the rule 1500 with rule float switch 
>>> and the hand pump.
>>> 
>>> Had New England Propeller rebuild the folding 2 blade prop at their strong 
>>> recommendation to reduce slop and make the blade angles symmetric again - 
>>> it took Ron a longer than I had hoped to complete it and was the main delay 
>>> in getting launched the last few weeks, but it came out really nice so I 
>>> think it was well worth doing.  Put the shaft back in with a new PSS shaft 
>>> seal and new spit coupling (fit and faced by New England Prop as well) and 
>>> everything went together smoothly.
>>> 
>>> We seem to have a very slow leak at or around one of the through hulls (the 
>>> waste exit which we likely will not be using at all since we will be 
>>> staying close to shore for now and getting pump outs), even after 
>>> tightening the valve as much as I dared.  Probably only about a teaspoon or 
>>> so an hour but if I dry the area off around it, it will get wet again.  Any 
>>> suggestions?  Thinking of just leaving it that way for this season until we 
>>> pull her for the fall.
>>> 
>>> Still to be done: look into the propane system and getting that working 
>>> again - probably need a new solenoid but I haven’t looked into that yet.  
>>> Connect the new hot water heater.  Replace the faucets  in the head and 
>>> galley, add a shower gray water pump, rig a new vang (the boat didn’t come 
>>> with one), and perhaps have a dogger and bimini built for her.  Plus lots 
>>> of little maintenance, teak refinishing, etc.
>>> 
>>> Looking to get some new propane tanks (11 lb tall version) as the ones she 
>>> came with were very rusty.  Does anyone make a stainless steel version?  I 
>>> might go aluminum I suppose if I can find one the right size and shape.
>>> 
>>> It would be fun to make it to the north east coast rendezvous at some 
>>> point, but unfortunately we already have plans for that weekend this year 
>>> and aren’t set up for cruising that far quite yet.  Maybe next year!
>>> 
>>> Nathan Post
>>> S/V Whisper
>>> 1981 C 34
>>> Lynn, MA
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
&

Stus-List Wisper has launched!

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hi All,

We finally have Wisper - our 1981 C 34 CB we purchased in May in the water!  
Excited to take her for a first sail tomorrow from Scituate up to Lynn MA where 
we will be keeping her this season.  She was left on the hard by previously 
owner for two years so lots of cleaning and lots of projects completed, and of 
course still more to do.  A few highlights on where we are at:

Thanks to everyone for the feedback previously on the rudder - after drilling 
holes and draining I determined that it was definitely still solid and that the 
best thing to do was leave it as is - sealed up the holes with Thixo epoxy and 
then some barrier coat.  This fall when she is pulled I think I’ll install a 
couple of plugs to make draining easier in the future since keeping the water 
out doesn’t sound like a realistic possibility in the long run.

Refinished the cabin sole, replaced the removing ceiling panels with 3/16” 
Starboard.  Had the sails cleaned and mended.  Replaced the glow plug solenoid 
which had partially failed - the glow plugs were still getting power, but the 
electric fuel pump which it also runs was not.  Replaced the waste hoses and 
rebuilt the head.

I have also been following the bilge pump discussion and decided to install a 
primary 3.5 gal/min Whale diagram pump with a large low profile screen inlet 
and WaterWitch in addition to the rule 1500 with rule float switch and the hand 
pump.

Had New England Propeller rebuild the folding 2 blade prop at their strong 
recommendation to reduce slop and make the blade angles symmetric again - it 
took Ron a longer than I had hoped to complete it and was the main delay in 
getting launched the last few weeks, but it came out really nice so I think it 
was well worth doing.  Put the shaft back in with a new PSS shaft seal and new 
spit coupling (fit and faced by New England Prop as well) and everything went 
together smoothly.

We seem to have a very slow leak at or around one of the through hulls (the 
waste exit which we likely will not be using at all since we will be staying 
close to shore for now and getting pump outs), even after tightening the valve 
as much as I dared.  Probably only about a teaspoon or so an hour but if I dry 
the area off around it, it will get wet again.  Any suggestions?  Thinking of 
just leaving it that way for this season until we pull her for the fall.

Still to be done: look into the propane system and getting that working again - 
probably need a new solenoid but I haven’t looked into that yet.  Connect the 
new hot water heater.  Replace the faucets  in the head and galley, add a 
shower gray water pump, rig a new vang (the boat didn’t come with one), and 
perhaps have a dogger and bimini built for her.  Plus lots of little 
maintenance, teak refinishing, etc.

Looking to get some new propane tanks (11 lb tall version) as the ones she came 
with were very rusty.  Does anyone make a stainless steel version?  I might go 
aluminum I suppose if I can find one the right size and shape.

It would be fun to make it to the north east coast rendezvous at some point, 
but unfortunately we already have plans for that weekend this year and aren’t 
set up for cruising that far quite yet.  Maybe next year!

Nathan Post
S/V Whisper
1981 C 34
Lynn, MA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C Water tank hatch covers

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Yes, they are made by Kracor - I wasn't able to figure that out at first as
some of the letters were worn off but it does look like what that says.
Thanks!  And Bruce, thanks for the link to Claire's - looks like they have
them and even have an online store:
https://marine-outfitters.com/products/kracor

The x type o-rings from are a good suggestion as well - I have used them in
other applications with good success.
Nathan

~~~
Nathan Post
+1 (781)  605-8671

On Tue, Jun 19, 2018 at 2:28 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Below is the text from a post I made earlier this year regarding the caps
> for C water tanks:
> After striking out at our local RV store and online searches, I called
> Kracor tanks.  They told me in no uncertain terms they only work with boat
> manufacturers, not individuals.  They tried to tell me to call C
> Finally I got connected with someone back in the shop who directed me to:
>
> Claires Marine Outfitters
> 2921 SW 2nd Ave,
> Fort Lauderdale, FL 33315
> (954) 523-4301
>
> They had them in stock, $10 apiece plus shipping.
>
> You may want to make a note of this if you think you'll need a cap someday.
>
> As it turns out the lip on one of my caps is bent up, and as a result the
> cap itself is leaking through a crack.  Thus the need for the replacement.
>
> By the way, I took the advice of getting x type o-rings, and for about $10
> I got a package of 10.  They work great and seal much better than the
> original gasket/o-rings.  I got them through McMaster Carr.
>
> Thanks everyone for the help,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
> *From:* Wade Glew via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Wade Glew 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 19, 2018 1:50 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C Water tank hatch covers
>
> I had to replace these on a C 30 Mk II a few years ago. It was a 1986
> but I believe C had the same tank manufacturer forever. The company name
> was embossed faintly on the screw on port caps which I then used to Google
> search and source new ones (which were very inexpensive by the way). If my
> memory serves me (less so anymore) the name was Krakor?  I can look on my
> boat this weekend
> Wade
> 33 Mk II
> Oh Boy
>
> On Mon, Jun 18, 2018, 07:01 Nathan Post via CnC-List, <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> The domestic fresh water tank (I assume original) on my 1981 C 34 has
> two ports in the top with screw in covers with 3.5" diameter threads.  The
> covers have degraded to the point that they no longer thread in (the
> plastic has shrunk - probably due to a chemical used by the previous owner
> or perhaps just time and heat.  The outer threads seem to be in good shape
> but I have been unable to find a replacement port cover of the same size.
> Any suggestions on there on where to find these covers so I don't need to
> cut the whole thing out and install new plate assemblies?
>
> Nathan
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C 34
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List marine insurance

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Thanks for the heads up David.  I’ll need to investigate that further.  Who is 
your broker?

- -
Nathan Post
+1 781-605-8671

> On Jun 19, 2018, at 11:41 AM, David via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Nathan,
> 
> FYI...BoatUS now has (they changed carriers last year) an aggressive 
> depreciation schedule to the point that my 1981 model was going to get  no 
> more than 20% of replacement value on parts.
> 
> No happening.  Changed to Berkley through my very good sailor/broker who is 
> local  to you and I.
> 
> 
> David F. Risch, J. D.
> 
> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  
> 
> (401) 419-4650 
> 
> 
>  
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Nathan Post via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2018 11:34 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Nathan Post
> Subject: Re: Stus-List marine insurance
>  
> I just got a new insurance policy for our 1981 C 34 from BoatU.S.  They 
> have not required a survey and the application was pretty straight forward - 
> they did however, want recent detailed pictures of the interior, exterior and 
> rigging of the boat which I was able to e-mail to the agent.  The policy 
> includes coverage for cruising coastal waters of Canada, but I don't know if 
> they offer policies for boats based in Canada.
> Nathan
> 
> ~~~
> Nathan Post
> +1 (781)  605-8671
> 
> On Tue, Jun 19, 2018 at 11:12 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> My experience is that insurance companies require a survey when you change 
> companies/policies.  They haven’t bothered me otherwise.
>  
> From: robert via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2018 10:06 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert ; Jeff Bechtel
> Subject: Stus-List marine insurance
>  
> Jeff:
> 
> My understanding is that most marine insurance companies require a survey 
> every five (5) years  after a vessel reaches 15 years of age.
> 
> I am not allowed to keep a vessel at my club without providing proof of 
> insurancei.e. for my benefit and every other club member.
> 
> Trusting this is helpful.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S. 
> 
>> On 2018-06-19 11:00 AM, Jeff Bechtel via CnC-List wrote:
>> I'm looking for any advice on marine insurance for a 1977 C M1 that has 
>> no current survey. I'm in Toronto, Ontario.
>> I'd prefer not to pull the boat out of the water until the fall, but all the 
>> insurance companies want an out of water survey to insure.
>> Any advice?
>> Jeff
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List marine insurance

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I just got a new insurance policy for our 1981 C 34 from BoatU.S.  They
have not required a survey and the application was pretty straight forward
- they did however, want recent detailed pictures of the interior, exterior
and rigging of the boat which I was able to e-mail to the agent.  The
policy includes coverage for cruising coastal waters of Canada, but I don't
know if they offer policies for boats based in Canada.
Nathan

~~~
Nathan Post
+1 (781)  605-8671

On Tue, Jun 19, 2018 at 11:12 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My experience is that insurance companies require a survey when you change
> companies/policies.  They haven’t bothered me otherwise.
>
> *From:* robert via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 19, 2018 10:06 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* robert  ; Jeff Bechtel
> 
> *Subject:* Stus-List marine insurance
>
> Jeff:
>
> My understanding is that most marine insurance companies require a survey
> every five (5) years  after a vessel reaches 15 years of age.
>
> I am not allowed to keep a vessel at my club without providing proof of
> insurancei.e. for my benefit and every other club member.
>
> Trusting this is helpful.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2018-06-19 11:00 AM, Jeff Bechtel via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I'm looking for any advice on marine insurance for a 1977 C M1 that
> has no current survey. I'm in Toronto, Ontario.
> I'd prefer not to pull the boat out of the water until the fall, but all
> the insurance companies want an out of water survey to insure.
> Any advice?
> Jeff
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> --
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List C Water tank hatch covers

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

The domestic fresh water tank (I assume original) on my 1981 C 34 has two
ports in the top with screw in covers with 3.5" diameter threads.  The
covers have degraded to the point that they no longer thread in (the
plastic has shrunk - probably due to a chemical used by the previous owner
or perhaps just time and heat.  The outer threads seem to be in good shape
but I have been unable to find a replacement port cover of the same size.
Any suggestions on there on where to find these covers so I don't need to
cut the whole thing out and install new plate assemblies?

Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 25 II - mast step concerns

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

If you do a peel and then put the peeled piece back after replacing the core 
how do you bond the top surface structurally to the surrounding deck at the cut 
edges?

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
C 34

> On Jun 14, 2018, at 5:41 PM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have not done a peel but I do know the design (25-2) at the step and arch 
> support below.  A coosa board product spanning the arch space in the cabin 
> would add much greater strength than factory.  Also fastened into the 
> bulkheads hidden between the headliner and mast step with 316 SS stock.  The 
> forces would always be transferred to the arched bulkead.
> 
>> On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 3:41 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> If you choose to do a "deck peel", a vibrating saw such as a Dremel Multimax 
>> is the tool to use.  It will cut a very narrow groove.  You can then "peel" 
>> up the deck using a flexible putty knife.  If you are careful, you can then 
>> replace the peeled piece of deck.
>>> 
> 
> ___
> _
> Bill Dakin
> S/V Tapestry
> 25-2
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 34 1981 Wet rudder - necessary to rebuild/replace?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the feedback and experiences with rudder maintenance!
Sounding more and more like the thing to do is dry out the rudder, seal it
up best we can, and then drain it in the fall.  I like the idea of
removable plugs for the future for checking/draining if required.
Nathan


On Mon, Jun 4, 2018 at 9:57 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Same problem on a 27 Mk III. What we do is have rain holes, one near the
> top of the rudder , one low down on the leading edge, one on the bottom. In
> sailing season we insert threaded plugs sealed with Vaseline to keep the
> rudder dry. They come out in the fall, a few drops leak out and the rudder
> dries out over the winter. (On the hard in Ontario). Has been successful
> for over 10 years so far.
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L.
> Wolford via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, June 4, 2018 9:17 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Matthew L. Wolford
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C 34 1981 Wet rudder - necessary to
> rebuild/replace?
>
> The rudder on my 1976 C 42 Custom was also wet when I bought the boat.
> My repair guru drilled a bunch of holes in a pattern, put the rudder in a
> plywood box that he made for this purpose, and “baked” it at about 150
> degrees for two or three weeks.  He then filled all the holes with West
> System and put several layers of barrier coat on the surface.  He also did
> something to seal the area where the rudder post enters at the top (which,
> like your boat, is normally out of the water).  We checked the rudder with
> a moisture meter for a couple years after the fix, and it stayed dry.  I
> haven’t checked it lately and am not concerned.  I don’t know if salt water
> creates an additional issue (I’m on freshwater).
>
> *From:* Nathan Post via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, June 04, 2018 8:03 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Nathan Post 
> *Subject:* Stus-List C 34 1981 Wet rudder - necessary to
> rebuild/replace?
>
> Hello all,
>
> I'm new to this list - my wife and I just purchased a 1981 C 34 center
> board version.  The boat has been on the hard for about 1.5 years after
> being a salt water boat here in the Boston area.  The surveyor assessed
> that the rudder was "saturated and delaminating" and he recommended
> rebuilding or replacing it due to concern about corrosion of the stainless
> rudder post in the low-oxygen environment inside the rudder.  (My surveyor
> wasn't specifically familiar with the C boats from this vintage).  I
> called South Shore Yachts last week to inquire about getting a new rudder
> built - but they suggested that it likely wasn't necessary and that they
> had never seen one fail due to corrosion of the stainless steel rudder post
> (which is my main concern) and that while most likely the welded carbon
> steel plate inside the rudder would have surface rust it wasn't likely to
> be a structural issue.
>
> Following the recommendation from them and on some of the forums, I
> drilled several 1/4" holes in the rudder to investigate further.  The hole
> in the bottom drilled upwards just hit fiberglass for the length of the
> drill bit ~2.5 inches as did a side hole about 3 inches up.  In the side
> about 5 inches up from the bottom, I did hit water that drained out and
> another hole about 12 inches from the top in the middle of the side also
> hit water and saturated soft foam.  I did not hit a metal plate in either
> location.  The hole in the top went through a layer of fiber glass in the
> middle and then into foam in the other side.  Combined both holes drained
> about 3 cups of water from the rudder in the first hour or so and maybe a
> little more over night.  The water that drained out was not rust colored
> but rather tinted black.  So the surveyor was correct that the rudder is
> full of water and the foam inside is pretty soft.  However, it also seems
> like the fiberglass is thick and pretty solid and there is no sign of
> cracking from it freezing during the winter.
>
> Obviously, I would prefer to avoid the cost of rebuilding/replacing the
> rudder if it isn't necessary, but also don't want to take on too high a
> risk of having a catastrophic failure of the rudder while under way. Once
> the rudder dries out a bit, I could just fill the holes I drilled with
> epoxy and perhaps try to seal around where the rudder post comes out of the
> top which is where I assume the water got in the first place since it
> didn't drain out with the boat on the hard for over a year.
>
> Any experience out there investigating potential corrosion of similar
> vintage and design C rudders or other recommendations?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Nathan
>
> ~~~
>
> Natha

Stus-List C 34 1981 Wet rudder - necessary to rebuild/replace?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

 Hello all,

I'm new to this list - my wife and I just purchased a 1981 C 34 center
board version.  The boat has been on the hard for about 1.5 years after
being a salt water boat here in the Boston area.  The surveyor assessed
that the rudder was "saturated and delaminating" and he recommended
rebuilding or replacing it due to concern about corrosion of the stainless
rudder post in the low-oxygen environment inside the rudder.  (My surveyor
wasn't specifically familiar with the C boats from this vintage).  I
called South Shore Yachts last week to inquire about getting a new rudder
built - but they suggested that it likely wasn't necessary and that they
had never seen one fail due to corrosion of the stainless steel rudder post
(which is my main concern) and that while most likely the welded carbon
steel plate inside the rudder would have surface rust it wasn't likely to
be a structural issue.

Following the recommendation from them and on some of the forums, I drilled
several 1/4" holes in the rudder to investigate further.  The hole in the
bottom drilled upwards just hit fiberglass for the length of the drill bit
~2.5 inches as did a side hole about 3 inches up.  In the side about 5
inches up from the bottom, I did hit water that drained out and another
hole about 12 inches from the top in the middle of the side also hit water
and saturated soft foam.  I did not hit a metal plate in either location.
The hole in the top went through a layer of fiber glass in the middle and
then into foam in the other side.  Combined both holes drained about 3 cups
of water from the rudder in the first hour or so and maybe a little more
over night.  The water that drained out was not rust colored but rather
tinted black.  So the surveyor was correct that the rudder is full of water
and the foam inside is pretty soft.  However, it also seems like the
fiberglass is thick and pretty solid and there is no sign of cracking from
it freezing during the winter.

Obviously, I would prefer to avoid the cost of rebuilding/replacing the
rudder if it isn't necessary, but also don't want to take on too high a
risk of having a catastrophic failure of the rudder while under way. Once
the rudder dries out a bit, I could just fill the holes I drilled with
epoxy and perhaps try to seal around where the rudder post comes out of the
top which is where I assume the water got in the first place since it
didn't drain out with the boat on the hard for over a year.

Any experience out there investigating potential corrosion of similar
vintage and design C rudders or other recommendations?

Thanks in advance!

Nathan

~~~

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
C 34
Malden, MA USA
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