Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I use ammonia (+TSP if there is a lot of grunge) as first steps of interior
teak prep. Might take 6-7-8 applications to get the teak almost ready.
Final prep I use 220 or 320 grit on a random orbital sander or sand by hand.
I'm trying Minwax Valspar WATER based satin, semi-gloss and gloss to finish
the interior of my new-to-me Cal-31.
Very happy with the results so far. Avoid the non-waterbased Valspar. It's
hard to work with.
I used to have a C 33-1. (Irma snatched her.)
--Bob M

On Tue, Feb 27, 2018 at 10:03 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and
> dried out wood in our 1994 C 37/40+.  Does anyone know what type
> of varnish, lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C to finish
> the interior woodwork?  I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc.,
> and I'd really like to match the interior look it had when it came out of
> the showroom so I don't have to refinish every square inch.
>
> What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at
> all), and what would you recommend for a new coating?
>
> I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time.
>
> I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an
> informed decision.
>
> Thanks for the insights!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Standing Rigging Question From a Former C

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Thank you for the replies.
After some research it looks like I should use double jaw toggles to
connect the eyes of the new shrouds to the eyes in the existing shroud
plates.

 http://hayn.com/marine/rigging/tj.html#djt

On Fri, Nov 17, 2017 at 6:41 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yeah I kinda misinterpreted the description.  The swadged end fittings
> should be properly attached to a tang which could then be through bolted to
> the mast.
>
>
> On Fri, Nov 17, 2017, 8:10 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> You can’t run a bolt through the eye on the end of a shroud. The tangs
>> line up the direction of pull, a bolt would be getting pulled on at an
>> angle trying to yank the head/nut off from one side.
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Neil
>> Gallagher via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, November 17, 2017 2:23 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Neil Gallagher
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Standing Rigging Question From a Former C
>>
>>
>>
>> It's common to have the lowers attach directly to the spreader bracket,
>> is it possible that the plate is part of the bracket? .   Further, a plain
>> bolt through the mast, when tightened, could cause the walls of the mast to
>> bend or collapse.  There should be a compression tube inside the mast
>> through which the bolt goes to prevent that. On my mast the compression
>> tube and bolt are directly in line with the spreaders, and the tang plate
>> for the lowers is part of the spreader bracket.  Attaching the lowers to
>> just a plain bolt through the mast doesn't seem advisable.
>>
>> Neil Gallagher
>> Weatherly, 35-1
>> Glen Cove, NY
>>
>> On 11/16/2017 9:24 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Hurricane Irma claimed Ox, my beloved 33-1.
>>
>> In its place I now have a 1979 Cal-31.
>>
>> I am hoping for some sympathy-advice regarding the standing rigging on my
>> new boat.
>>
>> Below is the as yet unanswered question I posted on the Cal user group
>> site:
>>
>> ---
>>
>> Greetings,
>>
>> My new-to-me 31 came with an oversized, uninstalled, brand new set of
>> shrouds.
>>
>> The mast ends have beefy eye fittings.
>>
>> The existing lowers terminate with jaws that connect to rectangular
>> plates (port and stbd) that are bolted together through the mast.
>>
>> I am wondering if the intent was to do away with the plates and run the
>> bolt directly through the four eyes (two eyes on each side, of course).  :-)
>>
>> Any thoughts or ideas are most welcomed.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> --Bob M
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Standing Rigging Question From a Former C

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Hurricane Irma claimed Ox, my beloved 33-1.
In its place I now have a 1979 Cal-31.
I am hoping for some sympathy-advice regarding the standing rigging on my
new boat.
Below is the as yet unanswered question I posted on the Cal user group site:
---

Greetings,

My new-to-me 31 came with an oversized, uninstalled, brand new set of
shrouds.

The mast ends have beefy eye fittings.

The existing lowers terminate with jaws that connect to rectangular plates
(port and stbd) that are bolted together through the mast.

I am wondering if the intent was to do away with the plates and run the
bolt directly through the four eyes (two eyes on each side, of course).  :-)

Any thoughts or ideas are most welcomed.

Cheers,

--Bob M
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List News story

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

They'll just have to check the Captain's log for the rest of the story.

On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 7:01 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ok, wtf? Story on news tonight about a sailboat that was stranded in the
> Pacific for 5months after their engine broke down on an otherwise
> functional boat.  Apparently the crew survived as they had a water maker
> and a year’s supply of oatmeal.  Something not add up here?  And who really
> has a 1 year supply of oatmeal for two people and a dog?
>
> Gotta be more coming on this one...
>
> John
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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Re: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I replaced each fixture with a pair of these:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/swivel-led/135-swivel-utility-led-light-bar-with-rocker-switch/1434/4518/#/attributes/10854
They were not available in the warm color so I got the "natural" color
which was fairly harsh.

On Tue, Oct 10, 2017 at 9:31 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The marine beam option is what I went with.  The boat came with more than
> a dozen tube fixtures (most of which were double tubes) and at ~$30 a
> tube it wasn't cheap.  For the most part they are plug and play though the
> directions do suggest bypassing the ballast/starter circuit.  I didn't
> bypass and haven't had any trouble.  I will strongly suggest the warm white
> varient and advise that the light still has a bit of the LED harshness, not
> the inviting glow of an incandescent.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Oct 8, 2017 10:36 AM, "kelly petew via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> Anyone have any experiences to share with replacing your original
> fluorescents with LEDs?
>
> Is it simply 'plug & play', i.e., old tube out, new LED tube into the
> existing fixture??
>
>
> Thanks!!
>
>
> Pete W.
>
>
> Siren Song
>
> '91 C 30-2
>
> Deltaville, Va.
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 37 Centerboard

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Thank you all (y'all) for all the info and advice.
--Bob M

On Tue, Oct 10, 2017 at 7:33 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> As long as he lives long and prospers, I think he’s ok with it..
> Chuck G.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 10, 2017, at 7:06 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Um…. I *think* Ken may have meant “Trekker”…   :^)
>
> From Wikipedia:
>
> There is considerable disagreement among Star Trek fans over whether to
> use the term Trekkie or Trekker. Some say that Trekkie is
> "frequently depreciative", thus, "not an acceptable term to serious fans",
> who prefer Trekker.
>
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Oct 10, 2017, at 5:01 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Don't worry, we still hold you in high esteem, and you are still our
> favourite Trekkie.
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List C 37 Centerboard

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I've read Donald Sebastian's earlier thread and hope it's OK to start a
new, but related, one.

I'm looking at a 1983 C 37-P K/CB.
(The "P" stands for Project Boat).

One of the issues is that the centerboard pennant is likely unattached.
When the boat was hauled ~5 months ago, the centerboard descended partially
(I'm told). This makes me think the pin is in place and that barnacles
prevented a full extension.

1) Is the centerboard fiberglass? Is it heavy?
2) If pin replacement is needed is that a big job?
3) How are the centerboard and trunk kept clean? Floss?  :-)

Thanks in advance.
--Bob M
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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Re: Stus-List Irma 1 : Ox <1

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Hi David,
The "bimini" consisted of two solar panels mounted on some aluminum tubing.
It was destroyed. The rudder shaft was bent about 10 degrees.
Regardless, the boat has since changed hands a few times and I do not know
its fate.
Cheers,
--Bob M
P.S. And no, not crass at all.  :-)

On Thu, Oct 5, 2017 at 7:00 AM, David Paine via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Bob,
>
>  I'm very sorry to hear that the mighty Ox has fallen!
>
> I'm a fellow C owner.  I hope this isn't too crass, but if you have
> a bimni for Ox, I would be interested in it.  Also, (and this is really a
> stretch), I have been thinking of rebuilding my rudder.  If the boat goes
> to the dumpster, I'd be interested in the rudder.
>
> Let me know!
>
> Again, sorry to see another C 33-I leave the fleet!
>
> Best,
>
> David
>
> On Wed, Oct 4, 2017 at 8:43 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Ol' Ox was on a mooring ball in St Augustine, FL when Hurricane Irma
>> passed through. I should've had out more scope and better chafing
>> protection.
>> Ox broke free and was eventually pounded under some floating docks.
>> The salvage folks put a sling under the gooseneck and after 20 minutes of
>> serious horsepower, pulled Ox free and and dragged the remains along the
>> bottom the their barge/crane for lifting the next day.
>> After lifting and a pump out, the bottom of the hole in the transom was
>> about 9-12 inches above the waterline.
>> I was impressed by the strength of the standing rigging. No rod heads
>> "popped" on the (perhaps) original standing rigging.
>> I put the boat on craigslist as a freebie, salvaged what I could, and
>> removed as much weight as possible.
>> Among the now-functional salvaged equipment are a Honda 2000 generator, a
>> CPT autopilot (great factory support), an Engel 12V refigerator, a couple
>> of Northstar AGM batteries, and a Caframo fan. I put all of these items in
>> fresh water asap and sprayed a lot of WD-40.
>> These tried-and-true components will likely find their way to my next
>> (and final) boat.
>> Looking at a C 40 centerboard but that's another topic.
>> Some pics:
>> https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNgoje_BPk95Ok9jhXDNvYa
>> nbsOoopSiafADrsB
>> https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipN8sBQwNLd6BV-Z6RASXWod
>> vDmE6fIEAtdeSiJc
>> https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNY1uwDlBcWf9E6HcZX3EVt
>> 5V0xIC-6jNRldH8x
>> https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipM65GCmNEwr8Xe4-Q8itH37
>> u6wy4y8tKKuu4W86
>> https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP0cYMFqPuocDilK_Np5S_
>> 9gPIDfZj_0DLrLmQP
>> https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMtt0CBZkz0GPA8BDytwjjL
>> QzQchQKs-4BUux-x
>> https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOfcjqw_f0HFqkEeesqiNUi
>> doCPYIpQAnGrHyq8
>> https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPKf72ExM8WaXoDPv0M9_1O
>> lcCCIDJ7gGGMg2Mn
>> https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPnDm297tq9lHdfu3fQeQQQ
>> tmriWcrMMXJx7TTh
>> Ready for craigslist.
>> https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP5JcQBzwq5qSrKn9pQ4NCs
>> tnO3ywXEwkat3_kH
>> https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNwL7duAsb7Iq0x7kS53liI
>> gD0H0xOmNChNBCaY
>> https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/deHRYLaD0i8kUVWZl9xA8eKQYU
>> 8v_e6MxUFEcEcD6Ah9BLBxJzTP_qkxNNVktC_izH5TqMiTtNlK4K4WEWzyod
>> 8HhbbvLZ3RngNxkvdfjm9KE6bM2ckYK5eDn-wBc0PeB4hiIAO8C1-3_WZ5xS
>> 1SzKUmUf6O6Zw9XpgoQQ8x2ACcP09mbtuNcw--udTzx_5F6xfmhKaCqFS1hW
>> z_zSRGa7RivKvKA1-38uiISEtJUd31EbeaLZ2jOa7tW7hSz1yFAHE1MHjNbC
>> Fq5ibA9prydZT2pGGSMgcPKAarqzvvbIZnK7c74GLXntr7u0T9mPn1-_zPBR
>> E4li58UW3oA5CHcrAZW60VL1sg87eOo9L4GCiHNYqciycvM1NfHHsLVp13Rk
>> tlbhQzNK-c2vVzsyaRtMd_c5_5aUc0QMXpzrlp4BYjXCauhy2GogT5VnPD4O
>> qi4oQkF1OZC9nGFugE0fWAosET4X7yE0xI47xqXCENy9_S520-2WZJm9X4Uc
>> 1CdvlzY2SBNonkWNMOT4x2LROQZT1dOD9I-79Q0T96YHVK40ffTuy3WtIJ1q
>> td0juQjDdz6SNT3pkHywKIHussHAdA9Q05sfZlVQyPL-4RmHM76A=w1069-h601-no
>>
>> Cheers for now,
>> --Bob M
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Irma 1 : Ox <1

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

These links should work:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iEmluJyRun6yn7iXYVhN9EMfNSOBNx-BEQ
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1H2tM0YCqiIKRrtKsnPKo6siTpo2bWbz5qg
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1aAMoxJNIaFVO7-dwlqpeI7lwg7qkKf4qpg
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1h9dPiR1ikhXtAb4XlHbzgQfhF5UPfd_1sA
https://drive.google.com/open?id=16gs8To8DDC643ZUxYszXnaJMVlRY12H82A

Ready for craigslist
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-jLFTklTZR7uww2lMq0WfBcDgS9D2vTUrw
https://drive.google.com/open?id=196tjfqE2JHZqu8-unaXrE1X5AUkNlHOc1w



> Cheers for now,
> --Bob M
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Irma 1 : Ox <1

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Ol' Ox was on a mooring ball in St Augustine, FL when Hurricane Irma passed
through. I should've had out more scope and better chafing protection.
Ox broke free and was eventually pounded under some floating docks.
The salvage folks put a sling under the gooseneck and after 20 minutes of
serious horsepower, pulled Ox free and and dragged the remains along the
bottom the their barge/crane for lifting the next day.
After lifting and a pump out, the bottom of the hole in the transom was
about 9-12 inches above the waterline.
I was impressed by the strength of the standing rigging. No rod heads
"popped" on the (perhaps) original standing rigging.
I put the boat on craigslist as a freebie, salvaged what I could, and
removed as much weight as possible.
Among the now-functional salvaged equipment are a Honda 2000 generator, a
CPT autopilot (great factory support), an Engel 12V refigerator, a couple
of Northstar AGM batteries, and a Caframo fan. I put all of these items in
fresh water asap and sprayed a lot of WD-40.
These tried-and-true components will likely find their way to my next (and
final) boat.
Looking at a C 40 centerboard but that's another topic.
Some pics:
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNgoje_BPk95Ok9jhXDNvYanbsOoopSiafADrsB
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipN8sBQwNLd6BV-Z6RASXWodvDmE6fIEAtdeSiJc
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNY1uwDlBcWf9E6HcZX3EVt5V0xIC-6jNRldH8x
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipM65GCmNEwr8Xe4-Q8itH37u6wy4y8tKKuu4W86
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP0cYMFqPuocDilK_Np5S_9gPIDfZj_0DLrLmQP
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMtt0CBZkz0GPA8BDytwjjLQzQchQKs-4BUux-x
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOfcjqw_f0HFqkEeesqiNUidoCPYIpQAnGrHyq8
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPKf72ExM8WaXoDPv0M9_1OlcCCIDJ7gGGMg2Mn
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPnDm297tq9lHdfu3fQeQQQtmriWcrMMXJx7TTh
Ready for craigslist.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP5JcQBzwq5qSrKn9pQ4NCstnO3ywXEwkat3_kH
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNwL7duAsb7Iq0x7kS53liIgD0H0xOmNChNBCaY
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/deHRYLaD0i8kUVWZl9xA8eKQYU8v_e6MxUFEcEcD6Ah9BLBxJzTP_qkxNNVktC_izH5TqMiTtNlK4K4WEWzyod8HhbbvLZ3RngNxkvdfjm9KE6bM2ckYK5eDn-wBc0PeB4hiIAO8C1-3_WZ5xS1SzKUmUf6O6Zw9XpgoQQ8x2ACcP09mbtuNcw--udTzx_5F6xfmhKaCqFS1hWz_zSRGa7RivKvKA1-38uiISEtJUd31EbeaLZ2jOa7tW7hSz1yFAHE1MHjNbCFq5ibA9prydZT2pGGSMgcPKAarqzvvbIZnK7c74GLXntr7u0T9mPn1-_zPBRE4li58UW3oA5CHcrAZW60VL1sg87eOo9L4GCiHNYqciycvM1NfHHsLVp13RktlbhQzNK-c2vVzsyaRtMd_c5_5aUc0QMXpzrlp4BYjXCauhy2GogT5VnPD4Oqi4oQkF1OZC9nGFugE0fWAosET4X7yE0xI47xqXCENy9_S520-2WZJm9X4Uc1CdvlzY2SBNonkWNMOT4x2LROQZT1dOD9I-79Q0T96YHVK40ffTuy3WtIJ1qtd0juQjDdz6SNT3pkHywKIHussHAdA9Q05sfZlVQyPL-4RmHM76A=w1069-h601-no

Cheers for now,
--Bob M
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Re: Stus-List Big Boat on my property C 33 mk1

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

For what it's worth, I bought Ox (33-1) ~10 years ago on eBay. It was very
much a project boat.
Price sells. Put a low "Buy it Now" price if you use eBay.
--Bob

On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 7:38 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I would post it on craigslist and other places as "Make an offer, must be
> gone by xxx date".
>
> Do you have a date in mind? Sounds like you're in a rush. Getting that
> boat off the property will cost someone money, it's difficult to sell a
> boat in that condition, in a hurry, anyway. If you're giving it away
> someone may pony up the money to get transport arranged.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Steve
> Formerly, C 32 Suhana
>
>
> On Fri, Sep 1, 2017 at 3:12 PM, David Kaseler via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Joe,
>> The original 33s are great boats we still have ours and love her. For us,
>> she both cruises and races well. Old IOR design creates some challenges
>> with the spinnaker in a blow but you can learn to deal with that. From our
>> prospective she is the right size for a couple.
>> Hope you find a buyer. If she still has her Atomic 4 gas engine many
>> potential buyers may see that as a negative but we just replaced our old
>> Atomic 4 with a rebuilt one from Moyer Marine. Don Moyer is the man for
>> these engines and has a great website where he sells endless parts, a
>> complete repair and rebuild manual and rebuilt engines with new heads and
>> manifolds and if you want to pay a bit more he even sells "rebuilt" engines
>> with new blocks.
>> Good luck on finding a buyer.
>> Regards,
>> Dave. Kaseler
>> 1975 C 33
>> SLY
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> > On Aug 30, 2017, at 10:17 AM, Joseph Kramer via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > Like many dreams in life they come and then fade.
>> > "Benefit" was the dream come true for me. "Risk" our first boat
>> adventure did result in a benefit that still lasts, which is the reality of
>> life together with my wife.
>> > So I have this fading dream boat that is fading as fast as I am.
>> > The issue is I have this boat on jack stands on my property in the
>> middle of Chatham county NC.
>> > I am seeking advice...
>> > This is a project boat.
>> > Like many dreams sometimes there are others that have that same
>> delusional dream. But, not really very many people have this dream for this
>> 33ft aging beauty.
>> > I am seeking advice on the best way as quickly as possible,..remove
>> this fading classic...
>> > Any dreamers???
>> > OK how about pragmatists.
>> > thanks
>> > Joe
>> > ___
>> >
>> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> >
>> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 - what's in the fridge?

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I replaced the ol' Atomic Four with electric auxiliary propulsion.
I'm using some of the 10 KWH battery bank to run an Engel MR040F-U1.
So far, so good (and cold)


Ox 1976 C 33
*LOA:*  32.87' / 10.02m
*LWL:*  26.42' / 8.05m
*Displacement:*  9800 lbs./ 4445 kgs.
*Propulsion System: Electroprop Racer*
Batteries: 4 X Northstar 210 FT Blue+
560 Watt Solar Panel Bimini
Jax, FL USA


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Sun, Aug 28, 2016 at 9:09 PM, jim schwartz via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> hi guys...its been a real education reading all your  replies on this
> subject.  i have installed a norcold on my 38 LF.  the system is installed
> beneath my quarter berth where the fresh water pump is also located. my big
> question is insulation around the icebox. does the factory spray any foam
> in?  i would like to drill some holes into the box, from the inside.  where
> is it safe to drill? then seal the holes after the foam is sprayed in.  any
> photos? thanks for any input you may have.
> jim schwartz
> SEA YA!
> CC 38 LF
> washington, nc
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> To: C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Sent: Thu, Jul 7, 2016 8:14 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 - what's in the fridge?
>
> Dave,
> Any fridge systems that have the danfoss compressor (Nova Cool, Alder
> Barbour, etc.) are probably compatible with the Stainless Lobster fridge
> controller.  This would be the upgrade that I would strongly consider prior
> to replacing a perfectly good system.  Some of the manufacturers (Nova
> Cool) will refurbish/recharge your used system for a reasonable price
> (~$100).  The threaded connections are well design to be lossless when
> connected/disconnected.
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Jul 6, 2016 1:42 PM, "Dave via CnC-List"  wrote:
>
>> Thanks Paul, Edd.
>>
>> My original refrigerAtion unit (nova cool?) is still working so I had not
>> planned to  tackle that quite yet. Will research Engels and Adler Barbour.
>>   Is the upgrade worthwhile or is this really something to consider once
>> replacement is necessary?
>>
>> The all in one approach looks very elegant - Paul, do you have a photo of
>> the install?  Curious.
>>
>> And...  Lol ... I guess I have not been whacked in the head quite enough
>> to have thought of the single piece hinged lid approach.  What a great
>> idea. Thanks!
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Message: 4
>> Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2016 18:16:11 +
>> From: Paul Fountain >
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 - what's in the fridge?
>> Message-ID:
>>> mail.outlook.com>
>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>
>> Dave,
>>
>> We added an all in one refrigeration unit to our 33-2, one of the best
>> upgrades yet! Used this unit http://www.westmarine.
>> com/buy/waeco-adler-barbour--coolmatic-cooling-conversion-kit--7895881
>>
>> installed it on the cockpit side of the icebox, had to cut the cockpit
>> bulkhead also. The insulation was in good shape, and about 3" thick. Last
>> weekend we found ice in some of the water bottles after we left it turned a
>> bit too far down.
>>
>> We also reworked the lid, as I got tired of it hitting me. I removed the
>> hinges on the back side, and hinged it in the middle so it folds onto its
>> other half. This also means we can remove completely to fill, empty or
>> clean the icebox.
>>
>> Get Outlook for iOS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jul 5, 2016 at 1:30 PM -0400, "Dave Syer via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> wrote:
>>
>> Hi All,
>> Seems the boat is never "done".I read a recent thread here on older
>> iceboxes and the benefit of improved insulation, and wonder about my '85.
>> As other work gets done, the ice box has moved up the project list a bit.
>>
>> I replaced the gasket and the manual drain pump, and will need to tighten
>> the lid screws to address wear/lid wobble, (might need screw holes filled)
>> and replace the rusting and now detached wire basket/shelf inside.  For
>> sure the small gap between the two lid sections could be sealed somehow,
>> and I will cut a closed-cell foam "blanket" to cover the top.  This should
>> help deal with the gap as well as insulate a bit better.   After that, the
>> work gets more invasive as the insulated (we hope) cavities are quite
>> difficult to access.
>>
>> Has anyone tackled a 33-2 ice box?  I am wondering mostly about the
>> amount of 

Re: Stus-List Autopilot control head

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

This might serve:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nA6wo9PXls

On Tue, Feb 21, 2017 at 6:20 PM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Fred,
>
> Correct.   My shorthand was too short...
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> Date: 2/20/17 10:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Frederick G Street 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot control head
>
> David — if it’s a ram-based (not wheel-based) system, you’ll need more
> than just the control head; you’ll also need the course computer to drive
> the ram, along with a heading sensor of some sort.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Feb 20, 2017, at 4:00 PM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Any brand.  It's an old ram and any old Control head should work?  No
> networking set.
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Home via CnC-List 
> Date: 2/20/17 4:19 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Home 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot control head
>
> What brand a model
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Feb 20, 2017, at 12:12 PM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> Does anybody have a use autopilot control head that they want to sell?
> Thanks in advance
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Free 1976 33

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

4,000 lbs Pb @ 0.35 /lb = $1,400.(USD)

On Thu, Jan 26, 2017 at 3:33 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Boy, that is sad!
>
> Richard
> S/V Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255 <(502)%20584-7255>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: RANDY via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: RANDY 
> Sent: Thu, Jan 26, 2017 3:26 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Free 1976 33
>
> Maybe this is the correct URL?  http://hartford.craigslist.
> org/boa/5945371616.html
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> --
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List West Marine offshore jacket w/ harness on sale again

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Thanks Ryan,
I just went and bought one of those and one of these, also on sale:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--offshore-automatic-inflatable-life-jacket-with-harness--13928551
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Sun, May 22, 2016 at 9:12 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey guys,
>
> Someone on here was nice enough to the list last time these came on sale
> and I bought two.  They're on sale again.  Normally $199, now $129.
>
>
> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--offshore-sail-automatic-inflatable-life-jacket-with-harness--14897433?cm_mmc=EM-_-Promo-_-N/A-_-N/A
>
> Ryan
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C Mk2 solar panel mounting

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

The panels measure 77" X 39" X 2" and each weighs 60 pounds.
Mine are wired in series to accommodate a 48v electric motor.
http://sunelec.com/datasheet-library/download/suntech/Suntech%20%20STP%20275%20280%2024%20Vd.pdf

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Thu, May 5, 2016 at 7:00 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com  wrote:

> Looks nice, what size are the panels andhow heavy are they? Thinking of
> addind a couple of 140 watt panels to Pegasus.
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
>
> svPegasus
>
> LF38
>
> just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C Mk2 solar panel mounting

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I made a solar panel bimini.
It's been tidied and beefed up a bit since the pic was taken.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0btSA_J8otua091R1dRbDFWMDA

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Wed, May 4, 2016 at 10:19 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I kept my two 135 watt panels off my RV to use on a boat.   They are large
> at 62"x28".  Now that I have a new to me 1988 MK2.  I don't know where to
> mount the large panels.   I've seen them on other brands of boats mounted
> on the side of the boats on the stanchion.  Wouldn't they get dragged when
> it heels over?  I was thinking of on the rear cockpit rails so they stick
> out the back length wise but somehow fold down.  However the back rails are
> rounded or curved.
> Where does all the C 30Mk 2 owners mount panels?
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List eagled

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

How about a spike up there?
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|118|2358558=74175
--Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 6:51 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Consider yourself lucky. You, at least, got done in by a Bald Eagle. My
> Garmin wind indicator was trashed by a plain ol' osprey in Megansett
> Harbor. Lucky for me that he dropped the vane on the deck, and that it
> didn't splash. And that was "click-on." Still, it cost me a hundred bucks
> to get a yard with a crane to click it back on. Guy said it was the easiest
> masthead work he'd ever done. Didn't have to buy any parts. Been working
> fine since. Check to see if yours is just jammed. Maybe you can fix it with
> percussive maintenance.
>
> Dan Sheer
> Pegathy - Landfall 38
> Rock Creek off the Patapsco
>
>
> --
>
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 2 May 2016 07:27:54 -0700
> From: Tom Buscaglia 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Eagled
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii
>
> The great Bald Eagle is a majestic bird and it's wonderful that we have
> them where we live.  Until they land on your masthead.
>
> It appears that one trashed the sensor head for my Raymarine ST60 wind
> instruments.  Speed seems fine but the wind direction arrow thing is done.
>
> Anyone know if the sensor head is modular or can be repaired or are they a
> one piece "disposable" part.
>
> BTW, Alera means eagle in Latin.  Ya think they cut us some slack...
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Does the EV-100 wheel pilot system require a rudder reference system?
Raymarine sells those for about $250.

Cheers
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 8:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gee, Richard; I’m speechless…   :^)   Thanks!
>
> Mark — Defender’s current public price on the EV-100 wheel pilot system is
> *LESS* than my dealer’s cost right now.  I’m hoping that means that
> Raymarine is coming out with a newer (more powerful?) version, but don’t
> hold your breath.  They’re pretty tight-lipped about upcoming products.
>
> If anyone on the list is looking for a wheel pilot, now’s the time to get
> one — $1159.99 plus a $300.00 rebate.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Electric Drive

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Hi James,

Yes, the larger prop is better but still not great at regen. I don't have
any data but I can hear the larger prop starting to regen at a lower speed
through the water than the original, smaller prop. Regen is generally
thought to be not that great on a boat my size (33 feet) unless it's moving
very fast through the water.

I'm no expert, but my take on LiFePo4 batteries is that the battery
management system is critical. It needs to know what's going on with every
cell. I had enough unknowns in my electric conversion, so I trundle along
with AGMs.

There are some compromises with electric auxiliary propulsion on a
sailboat. But after all, it is a sailboat.

I converted to electric mainly for reliability (not for "greenness").

Hope this helps, and I'm happy to answer (or give my opinion about) any
other question.

Bob Moriarty
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 4:42 PM, James Nichols via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bob,
>
> With your larger prop,  does it spin and generate power while you are
> sailing?
>
> My thoughts on batteries is that I plan on going lithium iron phosphate.
>
> Much higher capacity than lead acid, super fast recharge,  1/10th the
> weight and 1/4th the size for the same reserve rating. Just much more
> expensive.
>
> My charging system is in need of complete replacement anyways and I've
> just for one working battery right now,  so I thought I might as well go
> the route of lithium ion.
>
> I'm going through the calculations on my power needs right now and trying
> to figure out how many batteries and solar panels I need.
>
> It would be nice if the prop would add to the power generation also,  I've
> seen a system that does,  but it was crazy expensive.
>
> James
> S/V Kristy
> 1971 C 39
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C -- Shift cable attachement at engine stringer

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Wow. I'd love to see some details of that arrangement.
--Bob Moriarty
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 8:57 PM, David Paine via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bob, My below decks arduino autopilot uses a Pololu SMC controller.   It
> is an amazingly effective motor controller.
>
> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:50 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Yes that's a Pololu controller. They make good stuff.
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:45 PM, bobmor99 . <bobmo...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi David,
>>> My only (marginally useful) advice is to use a Dremel instead of a
>>> hacksaw.
>>> It's really tight down there.
>>> --Bob M
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:26 PM, David Paine via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks for the very useful input Bob and Rod,
>>>>
>>>> I used a mirror and it looks like exactly like what Rod describes -- a
>>>> strap bolted with two 7/16' hex bolts screwed into  threaded holes.   Bob's
>>>>  linear actuator (is that a Pololu motor controller?) is brilliant and
>>>> would save the horrible feed-through the stainless tube brace problem but,
>>>> for heck's sake, it shouldn't be this hard!The real problem is that
>>>> there is no clearance for a socket between the hexbolt head and the
>>>> eyestrap and, even if there were, there is no room between the engine and
>>>> the bracket for the wrench.I am going to try hacksawing through the
>>>> eyestrap that bolts the cable to the "L" to give a bit more room to fit a
>>>> small open wrench (though the room to move is very limited).   To move the
>>>> engine out of the way would be a nightmare so I am going to lose more
>>>> knuckle skin before I resort to that!
>>>>
>>>> Best,
>>>>
>>>> David
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:06 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi David,
>>>>> Not exactly helpful but the shift linkage failure was the penultimate
>>>>> last straw in the relationship with my Atomic 4.
>>>>> My remedy was a linear actuator controlled with a trim pot from the
>>>>> helm. It was pretty cool until the A4 had a lot more problems.
>>>>> I've gone electric since; an imperfect but so far reliable solution.
>>>>>
>>>>> Pics of the retired linear actuator:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuOEx2Q1RYM0R3UlE/view?usp=sharing
>>>>>
>>>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuM1JmaFJRS0M3RjQ/view?usp=sharing
>>>>>
>>>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuS3BxVmVDVXRlbjA/view?usp=sharing
>>>>>
>>>>> Here's the solar array that's helping charge my batteries:
>>>>>
>>>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otua091R1dRbDFWMDA/view?usp=sharing
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 3:56 PM, Rod Randow via CnC-List <
>>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I replaced my shift cable on my C 33-1 a few years ago when I had
>>>>>> my engine out for a rebuild. If I remember correctly, the cable is 
>>>>>> attached
>>>>>> to the vertical side of the welded L angle with a omega shaped fitting.
>>>>>> There are two bolts holding the piece.  I believe the angle piece
>>>>>> was tapped for the bolts. The omega piece has a concave “V” which fits 
>>>>>> into
>>>>>> a groove on the cable end.  I not sure the cable is replaceable
>>>>>> without lifting the engine -- let me know if it is possible.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Make sure you get a cable with the same "throw"? as the old one. I
>>>>>> had to recondition the old yoke because I could not find a replacement.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> There is more fun at the other end (cockpit) when it’s time to attach
>>>>>> and adjust the cable. I disassembled the cable “tubes” from the binnacle 
>&g

Re: Stus-List C -- Shift cable attachement at engine stringer

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Hi David,
My only (marginally useful) advice is to use a Dremel instead of a hacksaw.
It's really tight down there.
--Bob M


On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:26 PM, David Paine via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the very useful input Bob and Rod,
>
> I used a mirror and it looks like exactly like what Rod describes -- a
> strap bolted with two 7/16' hex bolts screwed into  threaded holes.   Bob's
>  linear actuator (is that a Pololu motor controller?) is brilliant and
> would save the horrible feed-through the stainless tube brace problem but,
> for heck's sake, it shouldn't be this hard!The real problem is that
> there is no clearance for a socket between the hexbolt head and the
> eyestrap and, even if there were, there is no room between the engine and
> the bracket for the wrench.I am going to try hacksawing through the
> eyestrap that bolts the cable to the "L" to give a bit more room to fit a
> small open wrench (though the room to move is very limited).   To move the
> engine out of the way would be a nightmare so I am going to lose more
> knuckle skin before I resort to that!
>
> Best,
>
> David
>
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:06 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi David,
>> Not exactly helpful but the shift linkage failure was the penultimate
>> last straw in the relationship with my Atomic 4.
>> My remedy was a linear actuator controlled with a trim pot from the helm.
>> It was pretty cool until the A4 had a lot more problems.
>> I've gone electric since; an imperfect but so far reliable solution.
>>
>> Pics of the retired linear actuator:
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuOEx2Q1RYM0R3UlE/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuM1JmaFJRS0M3RjQ/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuS3BxVmVDVXRlbjA/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> Here's the solar array that's helping charge my batteries:
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otua091R1dRbDFWMDA/view?usp=sharing
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 3:56 PM, Rod Randow via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I replaced my shift cable on my C 33-1 a few years ago when I had my
>>> engine out for a rebuild. If I remember correctly, the cable is attached to
>>> the vertical side of the welded L angle with a omega shaped fitting. There
>>> are two bolts holding the piece.  I believe the angle piece was tapped
>>> for the bolts. The omega piece has a concave “V” which fits into a groove
>>> on the cable end.  I not sure the cable is replaceable without lifting
>>> the engine -- let me know if it is possible.
>>>
>>>
>>> Make sure you get a cable with the same "throw"? as the old one. I had
>>> to recondition the old yoke because I could not find a replacement.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> There is more fun at the other end (cockpit) when it’s time to attach
>>> and adjust the cable. I disassembled the cable “tubes” from the binnacle to
>>> accomplish this.
>>>
>>>
>>> Rod Randow
>>>
>>> C
>>>
>>> On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 11:51 AM, David Paine via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi all,
>>>>
>>>> I have to replace the shift cable on my C and it is proving to be
>>>> troublesome.   I have the original atomic 4 with the v-drive so the
>>>> transmission is located in the front.   The red jacket 64CC series cable
>>>> comes from the helm, under the cockpit sole and beneath the engine and
>>>> attaches to a piece that is welded to the steel engine mount rail.   The
>>>> trouble is that the cable clamp is inaccessible in the space between the
>>>> engine sump and the engine mount stringers.It is looking like I will
>>>> either have to (1) cut the welded piece off and put together an alternative
>>>> mount or (2) move the engine to allow access to the hidden clamp.   Both
>>>> are fraught!It would help if I could see (I'll try a dentist's mirror
>>>> tonight) how the clamp functions -- is it a single screw or something
>>>> else?  Any insight would be much appreciated!
>>>>
>>>> David
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ___
>>>>
>>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>

Re: Stus-List C -- Shift cable attachement at engine stringer

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Hi David,
Not exactly helpful but the shift linkage failure was the penultimate last
straw in the relationship with my Atomic 4.
My remedy was a linear actuator controlled with a trim pot from the helm.
It was pretty cool until the A4 had a lot more problems.
I've gone electric since; an imperfect but so far reliable solution.

Pics of the retired linear actuator:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuOEx2Q1RYM0R3UlE/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuM1JmaFJRS0M3RjQ/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuS3BxVmVDVXRlbjA/view?usp=sharing

Here's the solar array that's helping charge my batteries:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otua091R1dRbDFWMDA/view?usp=sharing




On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 3:56 PM, Rod Randow via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I replaced my shift cable on my C 33-1 a few years ago when I had my
> engine out for a rebuild. If I remember correctly, the cable is attached to
> the vertical side of the welded L angle with a omega shaped fitting. There
> are two bolts holding the piece.  I believe the angle piece was tapped
> for the bolts. The omega piece has a concave “V” which fits into a groove
> on the cable end.  I not sure the cable is replaceable without lifting
> the engine -- let me know if it is possible.
>
>
> Make sure you get a cable with the same "throw"? as the old one. I had to
> recondition the old yoke because I could not find a replacement.
>
>
>
> There is more fun at the other end (cockpit) when it’s time to attach and
> adjust the cable. I disassembled the cable “tubes” from the binnacle to
> accomplish this.
>
>
> Rod Randow
>
> C
>
> On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 11:51 AM, David Paine via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I have to replace the shift cable on my C and it is proving to be
>> troublesome.   I have the original atomic 4 with the v-drive so the
>> transmission is located in the front.   The red jacket 64CC series cable
>> comes from the helm, under the cockpit sole and beneath the engine and
>> attaches to a piece that is welded to the steel engine mount rail.   The
>> trouble is that the cable clamp is inaccessible in the space between the
>> engine sump and the engine mount stringers.It is looking like I will
>> either have to (1) cut the welded piece off and put together an alternative
>> mount or (2) move the engine to allow access to the hidden clamp.   Both
>> are fraught!It would help if I could see (I'll try a dentist's mirror
>> tonight) how the clamp functions -- is it a single screw or something
>> else?  Any insight would be much appreciated!
>>
>> David
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List CPN 700i - transducers

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Not starting an N2K vs. NMEA 0183 debate here but 0183 provides a lot of
capabilities, much more than my minimalist handheld GPS and VHF 10-year-old
setup

When I decided to get some electronics recently, I started with a high-end
VHF with built-in GPS and AIS. (S-H VX2200, $260 USD after $40 mail-in
rebate)

After experimenting some more on the boat yesterday, I was able to get the
GPS data from it to my freebie, ~12 year-old S-H CP150C plotter via the DSC
wires in the main cable. (I was unable to do this earlier at home.)

The CP150C is unable to ingest the 38,400 bps AIS stream but I will be able
to send that to a Raspberry Pi 2 (RPi2) coupled with a Tontec 7" display
(both for <$100 USD) that will be at the nav station below. So, I'll be
able to see and act on AIS info at the RAM mic in the cockpit, at the radio
down below or, if I need more than the S-H VX2200 minimalist displays, on
the RPi2 running OpenCPN at the nav station. I'll also have an old laptop
with OpenCPN and a GPS puck.

As for my ailing depthsounder, seeing as I'll have no N2K capability, I
bought a Norcross Hawkeye D10D transducer and display (~$100 USD). The
Hawkeye might work with my existing Kenyon thru-hull transducer provided my
depthsounder problem is with the display and that my transducer operates at
200 kHz.

The wind is free and so is my chartplotter.   :-)

--Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Wed, Feb 24, 2016 at 11:18 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That Raymarine converter is pretty limited in the data it can convert; and
> it will only do 4800 baud, so if Steve ever wanted to add AIS, he’s need to
> throw that away and start over.  And if there’s a reasonably-priced way to
> get to NMEA2000 (which I’ve suggested to Steve already), I’d definitely go
> that route, as NMEA0183 is kind of the stone knife of marine data…   :^)
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
>
___

Email address:
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Stus-List Was: Replacement Depth Transducer - Now: Mostly Old Chartplotter Resurrection

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Apologies for changing the topic (from depth transducer to chartplotter)
without changing the Subject, but I thought I was replying to Fred only
when I segued into chartplotter territory. And Thanks, Joe D. B. for the
scrape from the owner's manual (which I have and have read). :-)

On Tue, Feb 23, 2016 at 8:22 PM, bobmor99 . <bobmo...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I called the GPS Store this morning to ask why the Standard Horizon (SH)
> CPN700i was in their printed catalog (@ $550 USD) but was not online.
> They've been out of them for months and the model has been discontinued.
> So, I called Binnacle Canada (their Canadian website had it for $800 CND
> (~$580 USD) with free shipping) but their US website did not. But, they
> told me there would be customs and shipping fees totaling $150 so I said no
> thanks.
>
> Earlier this evening I was able get my PC to send sample GPS messages into
> my free SH 155C via two pins in its Smart GPS socket so I'll be going the
> economical route once again. I'll make a plug out of something, maybe butyl
> - if I could only get it to harden  :-)
>
> --Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 21, 2016 at 2:42 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> A “smart GPS cable” supplies NMEA data. The older S-H plotters used an
>> actual RF antenna. The CP155C uses a smart antenna, so you can feed NMEA
>> data into that port if you have a cable. To use the other NMEA port, you
>> likely need to go through the menus and enable  that input if that is a
>> choice. You might be able to get S-H tech support to help.
>>
>> *12VDC Power and NMEA Cable*
>>
>> *Pin Wire Color Description Connection Example*
>>
>> 1 Black Battery Ground Connect to battery ground and *Black wire of GPS
>> Antenna*
>>
>> 2 Red Battery Positive Connect to Battery Positive and *Red wire of GPS
>> Antenna*
>>
>> 3 Green NMEA Common Common for NMEA devices
>>
>> 4 Blue VHF Input Conncect to VHF with DSC and DSE output
>>
>> 5 Brown VHF output Connect to VHF to supply GPS position data
>>
>> 6 Gray Fishfinder Input Standard Horizon Fishfinder, see FF520 owner's
>> manual
>>
>> 7 White Fish Finder Output Standard Horizon Fishfinder, see FF520 owner's
>> manual
>>
>> 8 Yellow GPS Antenna Input Connect to GPS Antenna *Green wire*
>>
>> *Smart GPS Cable*
>>
>> *Pin Wire Color Description Connection Example*
>>
>> 1 Red Battery Positive Connect to Battery Positive and *Red wire of GPS*
>>
>> *Antenna*
>>
>> 2 Green Smart GPS NMEA Input Connect to Smart GPS Input
>>
>> 3 Brown Smart GPS NMEA Output Connect to Smart GPS Output
>>
>> 4 NC
>>
>> 5 NC
>>
>> 6 Black/Yellow Battery Ground Connect to battery ground and *Black wire
>> of GPS*
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> If you really need one, I have a spare Smart Antenna I could send you for
>> $75.
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>>
>> C 35 MK I
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>> *bobmor99
>> . via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Sunday, February 21, 2016 9:21 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* bobmor99 .
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Replacement Depth Transducer
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Joel,
>>
>> It's unclear, from the manual, whether the GPS info must come into the
>> Standard Horizon (SH) CP155C chartplotter via the connection to an external
>> GPS antenna (the typical setup) or whether it could alternatively come in
>> via the NMEA 0183 inbound wire in the Power and NMEA cable (which I do
>> have). I tried sending a NMEA GPS data stream into the the plotter via the
>> latter path, trying output from a handheld Garmin GPS and from a PC's
>> serial (DB9) port but neither stream was seen by the Chartplotter. (I
>> verified baud rates and all that.)
>>
>> It's looking like the inbound (to the plotter) NMEA wire in the Power and
>> NMEA cable is just for DSC and DSE messages.
>>
>> It seemed like a doable hack, but now I don't think that's the case.
>>
>> Seeing as I don't have the plug at the end of the "Smart GPS Cable", I'm
>> going to bail out on this one.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Bob M
>>
>> P.S. Perhaps too much information, but I would have used the NMEA 0183
>> GPS output from my new SH VX2200 radio as the GPS source if the SH CP155C
>> were able to ingest it via the Power and NMEA cable.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 9:29 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Does the 155 require an external antenna?
>>
>> Joel
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Replacement Depth Transducer

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I called the GPS Store this morning to ask why the Standard Horizon (SH)
CPN700i was in their printed catalog (@ $550 USD) but was not online.
They've been out of them for months and the model has been discontinued.
So, I called Binnacle Canada (their Canadian website had it for $800 CND
(~$580 USD) with free shipping) but their US website did not. But, they
told me there would be customs and shipping fees totaling $150 so I said no
thanks.

Earlier this evening I was able get my PC to send sample GPS messages into
my free SH 155C via two pins in its Smart GPS socket so I'll be going the
economical route once again. I'll make a plug out of something, maybe butyl
- if I could only get it to harden  :-)

--Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Sun, Feb 21, 2016 at 2:42 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A “smart GPS cable” supplies NMEA data. The older S-H plotters used an
> actual RF antenna. The CP155C uses a smart antenna, so you can feed NMEA
> data into that port if you have a cable. To use the other NMEA port, you
> likely need to go through the menus and enable  that input if that is a
> choice. You might be able to get S-H tech support to help.
>
> *12VDC Power and NMEA Cable*
>
> *Pin Wire Color Description Connection Example*
>
> 1 Black Battery Ground Connect to battery ground and *Black wire of GPS
> Antenna*
>
> 2 Red Battery Positive Connect to Battery Positive and *Red wire of GPS
> Antenna*
>
> 3 Green NMEA Common Common for NMEA devices
>
> 4 Blue VHF Input Conncect to VHF with DSC and DSE output
>
> 5 Brown VHF output Connect to VHF to supply GPS position data
>
> 6 Gray Fishfinder Input Standard Horizon Fishfinder, see FF520 owner's
> manual
>
> 7 White Fish Finder Output Standard Horizon Fishfinder, see FF520 owner's
> manual
>
> 8 Yellow GPS Antenna Input Connect to GPS Antenna *Green wire*
>
> *Smart GPS Cable*
>
> *Pin Wire Color Description Connection Example*
>
> 1 Red Battery Positive Connect to Battery Positive and *Red wire of GPS*
>
> *Antenna*
>
> 2 Green Smart GPS NMEA Input Connect to Smart GPS Input
>
> 3 Brown Smart GPS NMEA Output Connect to Smart GPS Output
>
> 4 NC
>
> 5 NC
>
> 6 Black/Yellow Battery Ground Connect to battery ground and *Black wire
> of GPS*
>
>
>
>
>
> If you really need one, I have a spare Smart Antenna I could send you for
> $75.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *bobmor99
> . via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, February 21, 2016 9:21 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* bobmor99 .
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Replacement Depth Transducer
>
>
>
> Hi Joel,
>
> It's unclear, from the manual, whether the GPS info must come into the
> Standard Horizon (SH) CP155C chartplotter via the connection to an external
> GPS antenna (the typical setup) or whether it could alternatively come in
> via the NMEA 0183 inbound wire in the Power and NMEA cable (which I do
> have). I tried sending a NMEA GPS data stream into the the plotter via the
> latter path, trying output from a handheld Garmin GPS and from a PC's
> serial (DB9) port but neither stream was seen by the Chartplotter. (I
> verified baud rates and all that.)
>
> It's looking like the inbound (to the plotter) NMEA wire in the Power and
> NMEA cable is just for DSC and DSE messages.
>
> It seemed like a doable hack, but now I don't think that's the case.
>
> Seeing as I don't have the plug at the end of the "Smart GPS Cable", I'm
> going to bail out on this one.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob M
>
> P.S. Perhaps too much information, but I would have used the NMEA 0183 GPS
> output from my new SH VX2200 radio as the GPS source if the SH CP155C were
> able to ingest it via the Power and NMEA cable.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 9:29 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Does the 155 require an external antenna?
>
> Joel
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Replacement Depth Transducer

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Hi Joel,

It's unclear, from the manual, whether the GPS info must come into the
Standard Horizon (SH) CP155C chartplotter via the connection to an external
GPS antenna (the typical setup) or whether it could alternatively come in
via the NMEA 0183 inbound wire in the Power and NMEA cable (which I do
have). I tried sending a NMEA GPS data stream into the the plotter via the
latter path, trying output from a handheld Garmin GPS and from a PC's
serial (DB9) port but neither stream was seen by the Chartplotter. (I
verified baud rates and all that.)
It's looking like the inbound (to the plotter) NMEA wire in the Power and
NMEA cable is just for DSC and DSE messages.
It seemed like a doable hack, but now I don't think that's the case.
Seeing as I don't have the plug at the end of the "Smart GPS Cable", I'm
going to bail out on this one.
Cheers,
Bob M
P.S. Perhaps too much information, but I would have used the NMEA 0183 GPS
output from my new SH VX2200 radio as the GPS source if the SH CP155C were
able to ingest it via the Power and NMEA cable.


On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 9:29 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does the 155 require an external antenna?
> Joel
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Replacement Depth Transducer

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Thank you, Fred.

I'm still figuring out a few things. I was recently gifted an old Standard
Horizon 155 CP155C (without the GPS) from a dock neighbor who upgraded to a
SH CPN 700i. I couldn't get a GPS signal into the CP155C and am about to
relegate it to emergency backup status. The charts display fine but they'd
have to be "manually cross referenced" to an externally-supplied GPS
position. Another first world problem...  :-)

I really like my shiny new SH VX2200 and it looks like it would
inter-operate nicely with the SH CPN 700i so I'll probably pull the trigger
on that next week. These are amazing times.

I'm kinda liking Standard Horizon in general. They don't seem driven by
marketeers. I don't mind wading through some semi-techy, almost complete,
documentation. And, they haven't taken the proprietary route.

I have to take a closer look at my current depth transducer. IIRC, it was
designed to be easily removed
from inside the boat - just like its long-broken speed paddlewheel
neighbor. That might limit my choices for a plug and play, in the water,
replacement.

Kind regards,

---Bob Moriarty
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 1:52 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bob -- if you're interested, I can price that transducer for you from my
> vendor.
>
> -- Fred
>
> On Feb 19, 2016, at 8:21 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thank you Fred,
> It's disappointing that a simple depth = x? question would be complicated
> by vendors' proprietary proclivities - especially with long established
> NMEA 0183 and 2000 standards in place.
> I'll check out the DT800 and calibrate it using the various places I've
> run aground.  :-)
> I'll send you a DSC call if the calibration effort goes awry.  :-)
> --Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
>
> On Tue, Feb 16, 2016 at 11:53 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Bob — yes, Airmar makes a line of “smart” transducers that have NMEA2000
>> direct output.  For depth, you’d want the DT800; the best option for you
>> would be the one made by Airmar for Furuno, as it has an NMEA2000 connector
>> ready to plug into an NMEA2000 backbone; this transducer will run you about
>> $270.00.  The issue you’re going to run into is that you won’t be able to
>> “calibrate” the transducer (for depth offset, for instance) without other
>> equipment from the same manufacturer on the bus, as the calibration schemes
>> have not been made a direct part of the NMEA2k standard, so each
>> manufacturer handles it differently.  And you’ll need to start from zero on
>> an NMEA2000 bus.
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>
>> On Feb 16, 2016, at 7:09 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> My original depth transducer and display have given up the ghost.
>> Is there a preferred, non-proprietary depth transducer that can output
>> NMEA 0183 or NMEA 2000 depth messages?
>>
>> Looking to buy a Standard Horizon CPN700i chartplotter,
>>
>>
>> http://www.standardhorizon.com/indexVS.cfm?cmd=DisplayProducts=84=DAF88A33AD0AD868B77CC24EF82D4880=3=0
>>
>> which can handle both NMEA 0183 and NMEA 2000 input.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>> --Bob M
>>
>> BTW, I recently installed a Standard Horizon GX2200 VHF/GPS/AIS unit -
>> (my first grown-up VHF). It's great, especially with the RAM mic. (Thanks
>> for that suggestion, Dennis C. !)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Replacement Depth Transducer

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Thank you Fred,
It's disappointing that a simple depth = x? question would be complicated
by vendors' proprietary proclivities - especially with long established
NMEA 0183 and 2000 standards in place.
I'll check out the DT800 and calibrate it using the various places I've run
aground.  :-)
I'll send you a DSC call if the calibration effort goes awry.  :-)
--Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Tue, Feb 16, 2016 at 11:53 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bob — yes, Airmar makes a line of “smart” transducers that have NMEA2000
> direct output.  For depth, you’d want the DT800; the best option for you
> would be the one made by Airmar for Furuno, as it has an NMEA2000 connector
> ready to plug into an NMEA2000 backbone; this transducer will run you about
> $270.00.  The issue you’re going to run into is that you won’t be able to
> “calibrate” the transducer (for depth offset, for instance) without other
> equipment from the same manufacturer on the bus, as the calibration schemes
> have not been made a direct part of the NMEA2k standard, so each
> manufacturer handles it differently.  And you’ll need to start from zero on
> an NMEA2000 bus.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Feb 16, 2016, at 7:09 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My original depth transducer and display have given up the ghost.
> Is there a preferred, non-proprietary depth transducer that can output
> NMEA 0183 or NMEA 2000 depth messages?
>
> Looking to buy a Standard Horizon CPN700i chartplotter,
>
>
> http://www.standardhorizon.com/indexVS.cfm?cmd=DisplayProducts=84=DAF88A33AD0AD868B77CC24EF82D4880=3=0
>
> which can handle both NMEA 0183 and NMEA 2000 input.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> --Bob M
>
> BTW, I recently installed a Standard Horizon GX2200 VHF/GPS/AIS unit - (my
> first grown-up VHF). It's great, especially with the RAM mic. (Thanks for
> that suggestion, Dennis C. !)
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
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Re: Stus-List When to reef C 33-2

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

 Unclamp, gulp, clamp. Rinse, lather, repeat.
Giving away some racing secrets here.

On Tue, Feb 16, 2016 at 8:52 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Do you use a straw?
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 16, 2016, at 7:50 PM, "bobmor99 . via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I clamp my beer in place so I never reef.  Arrr!.
> (Just kidding. Don't try this at home.)  :-)
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
> On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 9:41 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I reef when my beer falls over.  :)
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> <http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
>>
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List When to reef C 33-2

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I clamp my beer in place so I never reef.  Arrr!.
(Just kidding. Don't try this at home.)  :-)
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Wed, Feb 10, 2016 at 9:41 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I reef when my beer falls over.  :)
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>
>
>
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Stus-List Replacement Depth Transducer

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

My original depth transducer and display have given up the ghost.
Is there a preferred, non-proprietary depth transducer that can output NMEA
0183 or NMEA 2000 depth messages?

Looking to buy a Standard Horizon CPN700i chartplotter,

http://www.standardhorizon.com/indexVS.cfm?cmd=DisplayProducts=84=DAF88A33AD0AD868B77CC24EF82D4880=3=0

which can handle both NMEA 0183 and NMEA 2000 input.

Thanks in advance.
--Bob M

BTW, I recently installed a Standard Horizon GX2200 VHF/GPS/AIS unit - (my
first grown-up VHF). It's great, especially with the RAM mic. (Thanks for
that suggestion, Dennis C. !)
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Re: Stus-List Testing DSC

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Hello All,

Thanks for the replies.
I am aware of the need to get an MMSI number and will be starting that
process shortly.
I'm uncertain at this time whether to get the quick and free BoatUS MMSI
number or to go the slow, federal, not-free route - which would mean the
DSC stuff could be used in non-US waters. (That's just a choice for US
boaters and I'll bring it (BoatUS vs. federal  issued MMSI) up as a
separate Stu's List topic.)

I was more interested in testing the built-in AIS and DSC functions of the
radio. Supposedly, if an AIS target was displayed on the radio's small
display, I could select it and start communicating with it digitally on
channel 70 and audibly on channel 16(?).

But I don't want to somehow accidentally give anyone the erroneous
impression that I'm in distress.

I'm also wondering if anyone has tested the "All Ships" DSC distress signal
just to verify that it's working.

--Bob M
Ox 1976 33-1
Jax, FL
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Stus-List MMSI Number Assigning Authority (USA and Canada)

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Just read the nice BoatUS MMSI FAQ.
https://www.boatus.com/mmsi/faq.asp

As I understand it, both Canadian and US boaters have a choice for
quick-easy-free MMSI number assignment (by Industry Canada or BoatUS) or a
slower, not-free gov't issued MMSI number (which ends in a zero).

Non-gov't issued MMSI numbers are only for use in Canadian or US waters.

What would be the ramifications if I issued a DSC distress call from a
radio with a BoatUS-supplied MMSI in, e.g., Bahamian waters?

Would it go unnoticed? Would I be fined? Sorry to sound like a scofflaw,
just trying to understand how the system works.

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List MMSI Number Assigning Authority (USA and Canada)

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Thank you Rick for your detailed reply.
I think my question still boils down to whether a DSC All Ships Distress
Alert sent e.g. from Bahamian waters from a radio with a BoatUS-issued MMSI
would be treated equally as a boat with a (U.S.) federally issued MMSI.
--Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Fri, Jan 15, 2016 at 9:49 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The basic difference between an MMSI issued by Boat/US and one from the
> FCC is the availability of the data to search and rescue agencies. Boat/US
> share the database of boat description, emergency contacts, persons on
> board, cell phones aboard, etc. with the USCG. So if you make a distress
> call in US waters (or within range of the USCG) they look up your boat
> information, call your home and emergency contacts to make sure it is not a
> false alarm, call you back on the radio to identify your emergency and
> start the SAR process.
>
>
>
> If you are out of the area covered by USCG, the SAR agency that gets your
> DSC mayday call gets your MMSI and position, but does not have access to
> the other information you submit with your application. They know you’re
> out there, but they don’t know who they are looking for or what resources
> they might need. That could potentially impede the search. Also, the
> majority of mayday calls received by the USCG are false alarms or hoaxes.
> Not to disparage any 3rd world SAR agencies or imply that the response to
> a call will be less than efficient, but can’t you imagine the following:
> “Hey, jefe, there is some bozo sending a distress call, but I can’t tell
> who or what they are.” “Damn. There’s a storm out there and it’s probably a
> false alarm anyway. Send out Pablo in the morning to see if he can see
> what’s up.”
>
>
>
> Information associated with an MMSI issued by the FCC is shared not just
> with the USCG, but also internationally.
>
>
>
> If you are going to be out of US territorial waters you are legally
> supposed to have a Ship’s Station License issued by the FCC. Getting the
> license usually includes the MMSI number. You also need a Ship Station
> License if you are operating other equipment like AIS, radar, SSB or other
> HF radio, or an EPIRB.  Boat/US says Canada does not enforce the licensing
> requirement. Don’t know whether it comes up when entering other countries,
> but not having all the appropriate paperwork and licenses when clearing
> into a country might be a cause for hassles, fees, and delays.
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *bobmor99
> . via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, January 15, 2016 6:44 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* bobmor99 . <bobmo...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Stus-List MMSI Number Assigning Authority (USA and Canada)
>
>
>
> Just read the nice BoatUS MMSI FAQ.
> https://www.boatus.com/mmsi/faq.asp
>
> As I understand it, both Canadian and US boaters have a choice for
> quick-easy-free MMSI number assignment (by Industry Canada or BoatUS) or a
> slower, not-free gov't issued MMSI number (which ends in a zero).
>
> Non-gov't issued MMSI numbers are only for use in Canadian or US waters.
>
> What would be the ramifications if I issued a DSC distress call from a
> radio with a BoatUS-supplied MMSI in, e.g., Bahamian waters?
>
> Would it go unnoticed? Would I be fined? Sorry to sound like a scofflaw,
> just trying to understand how the system works.
>
> Bob M
>
> Ox 33-1
>
> Jax, FL
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List MMSI Number Assigning Authority (USA and Canada)

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Hi David,
FWIW, I've lived abroad and I suppose, was more looking for the "word on
the street" with respect to the way things actually work with respect to
the origin of one's MMSI.
Cheers,
--Bob M


On Fri, Jan 15, 2016 at 10:54 PM, David Lenehan via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bob,
>
> No one can give you a definitie answer about how you will be treated upon
> arrival in any port anywhere in the world.  It can and does vary.
>
> Having dealt with bureaucracies for what seems like forever, the official
> answer you will get is simple:  "You must comply with the law when you
> visit the Bahamas."  It's the same in any country.  How that is enforced is
> often up to the individual official - some are tougher than others; some
> have their favourite areas to look for, and; some are outright pigs.
>
> When I was at school, I was one of the physically big and capable kids.
> It was a policy to avoid the bullies who I stood up to and I was left alone
> by them.  Occasionally I got asked to help out some kid who was being
> picked on.  My advice was usually the same:  "Why go where you know they'll
> be and get targetted?  Don't give them a reason or opportunity to bully
> you."
>
> The same advice applies here regardless of how the last skipper you spoke
> to was treated in Nassau, Buenos Aires or Port Vila.  Be suitably informed
> and obey their laws.  It's not that difficult even if it costs a little
> more in the short term.  It may save you big time on arrival.
>
> Hope that helps
> David
>
> On 16 January 2016 at 14:28, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thank you Rick for your detailed reply.
>> I think my question still boils down to whether a DSC All Ships Distress
>> Alert sent e.g. from Bahamian waters from a radio with a BoatUS-issued MMSI
>> would be treated equally as a boat with a (U.S.) federally issued MMSI.
>> --Bob M
>> Ox 33-1
>> Jax, FL
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 15, 2016 at 9:49 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> The basic difference between an MMSI issued by Boat/US and one from the
>>> FCC is the availability of the data to search and rescue agencies. Boat/US
>>> share the database of boat description, emergency contacts, persons on
>>> board, cell phones aboard, etc. with the USCG. So if you make a distress
>>> call in US waters (or within range of the USCG) they look up your boat
>>> information, call your home and emergency contacts to make sure it is not a
>>> false alarm, call you back on the radio to identify your emergency and
>>> start the SAR process.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> If you are out of the area covered by USCG, the SAR agency that gets
>>> your DSC mayday call gets your MMSI and position, but does not have access
>>> to the other information you submit with your application. They know you’re
>>> out there, but they don’t know who they are looking for or what resources
>>> they might need. That could potentially impede the search. Also, the
>>> majority of mayday calls received by the USCG are false alarms or hoaxes.
>>> Not to disparage any 3rd world SAR agencies or imply that the response
>>> to a call will be less than efficient, but can’t you imagine the following:
>>> “Hey, jefe, there is some bozo sending a distress call, but I can’t tell
>>> who or what they are.” “Damn. There’s a storm out there and it’s probably a
>>> false alarm anyway. Send out Pablo in the morning to see if he can see
>>> what’s up.”
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Information associated with an MMSI issued by the FCC is shared not just
>>> with the USCG, but also internationally.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> If you are going to be out of US territorial waters you are legally
>>> supposed to have a Ship’s Station License issued by the FCC. Getting the
>>> license usually includes the MMSI number. You also need a Ship Station
>>> License if you are operating other equipment like AIS, radar, SSB or other
>>> HF radio, or an EPIRB.  Boat/US says Canada does not enforce the licensing
>>> requirement. Don’t know whether it comes up when entering other countries,
>>> but not having all the appropriate paperwork and licenses when clearing
>>> into a country might be a cause for hassles, fees, and delays.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>>> *bobmor99
>>> . via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Friday, January 15, 201

Stus-List Testing DSC

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Today I received my first grown-up radio, a Standard Horizon GX2200.
DSC looks like a very nice technology but I am wondering how to test/learn
it without triggering a bunch of false alarms or general chaos.
I'm docked in a backwater, but there is occasional barge traffic that
probably has AIS transmitters.
I'd like to verify that my new radio can easily communicate (via channel
70?) with the barges as they pass by.
Maybe I need to read the fine manual again but am wondering if anyone else
has done this exercise and if there are any tips or gotchas.
Many thanks in advance,
--Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List Vessel Documentation

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

My boat was documented by its previous owners but there's no value for me
to keep doing so.
I daysail in Florida and pay the annual <$5 antique vessel state
registration fee.
I only carry liability insurance. If Ox sinks, I'll cry for a day and get
another boat to sail and work on.

--Bob Moriarty
Ox 1976 33-1
Jax, FL

On Wed, Jan 13, 2016 at 7:52 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm surprised so many people on here are USCG documented. I thought USCG
> documentation (as opposed to merely state registration) is mostly only
> beneficial to those traveling internationally. (and not everyone commenting
> travels internationally).
>
> So if you don't travel outside of the US and Canada, what motivated you to
> go USCG documented?  There's a small fee savings sometimes (USCG fee is
> one-time while state is annual), but not much - USCG documentation doesn't
> exempt you from state excise taxes (if any). And Washington state requires
> state registration even if you're USCG documented, except for exempt
> vessels (mainly commercial vessels). So no fee savings for Washington.
>
> -Patrick
> C LF38
> Seattle, WA
>
>
>
>
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>
>
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Stus-List Standard Horizon GX2200

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Currently I just day-sail with minimal electronics (VHF, GPS, and cellphone
- all hand-held) but am looking to do some coastal cruising (US Southeast)
within the next year. I am looking at the GX2200 as a nice addition.

The GPS Store has it for $300 plus a $40 mail in rebate.

http://www.thegpsstore.com/Standard-Horizon-GX2200-Matrix-AIS-with-GPS-P3968.aspx

Thoughts and opinions appreciated as always.

--Bob Moriarty
Ox 1976 33-1
Jax, FL
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Stus-List What's a Loud Hailer?

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Sort of a companion thread to my GX2200 post. Is a loud hailer used to
audibly state one's position - or else, maybe to shout, "Hey you, get outta
the way!".
Is an additional speaker needed, e.g.
http://www.thegpsstore.com/Standard-Horizon-MLS-310-External-Speaker-Black-P3035.aspx
Never been in the fog (on the water).

Thanks in advance,

--Bob Moriarty
Ox 1976 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List Engine Room Original Paint

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Dang!
Well, I thought of the question after doing the sanding so maybe it's made
me smarter.
--Pb, I mean, Ox

On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 9:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> If it's in half decent shape after forty years, probably yes. The best
> paints back then had lead in it. We used to buy/compare exterior paint
> based on price & weight.
>
>  Just don't let any children chew on it.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>
>
>
> At 05:56 PM 05/01/2016, you wrote:
>
> I've been cleaning up the engine room, which has included some sanding of
> the original paint in there. Is there any chance that paint has lead in it?
> Thanks in advance,
> --Bob Moriarty
> Ox 1976 33-1
> Jax, FL
> ___
>
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>
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Stus-List Engine Room Original Paint

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I've been cleaning up the engine room, which has included some sanding of
the original paint in there. Is there any chance that paint has lead in it?
Thanks in advance,
--Bob Moriarty
Ox 1976 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List 818 messages...

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

True dat. The thing about C is hang on, brb.
lol aka haha
--Ox

>
> Anyhow, a bunch of listers reply with single points now, instead of
> compiling their thoughts into a message which considers the whole problem
> expressed.
> 
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Cost to recover cushions - ouch

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Concur with Jim Watt's experience of 10 year's ago. 13 pieces, all new foam
including additional memory foam in V and quarter berth.   Sunbrella with
stripes (a little harder to work with). Lots of zippers and underside mesh.
This was 8-9 years ago. Foam was a big cost. All totalled, ~3K USD. Made
very locally.
As for DIY, life's too short to get good at this.
--Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Thu, Dec 17, 2015 at 3:13 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sounds expensive, we were just over $3K 10 years ago, but we replaced
> everything. New 4" foam everywhere with and additional 2" of memory foam in
> the V-berth, top end furniture grade Ultrasuede covers. I think you could
> do better, but that's just my Scrooge coming out.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 17 December 2015 at 12:07, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> All,
>>
>> Just got a quote to have the cushions in the main salon - U shaped
>> dinette and straight berth with back cushions- recovered in Sunbrella.​
>>  Estimate was at least $2200 depending on fabric/extras.  Is that a
>> reasonable price?  Is there any good way to DIY if you don't sew?
>>
>>
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> Annapolis
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
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>>
>>
>>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Annapolis yacht club

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

What does this mean for folks with their boats at the docks?
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Sat, Dec 12, 2015 at 4:38 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There was a three alarm fire at Annapolis yacht club this afternoon. No
> one was hurt. The building may be a total loss.
>
> Joel
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Here's why it is better to sail the gulf-side of FL

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I'm just a day-sailing river rat and have never had to deal with rogue
containers. I wonder if, for coastal cruisers, the danger is greater to be
run down by a container ship than to collide with one of its washed
overboard containers. I have no idea.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Wed, Dec 9, 2015 at 8:50 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List 
wrote:

>
> It is a potential “All is Lost “ * 25
>
> COAST GUARD CONTINUES TO INVESTIGATE CAUSE OF CONTAINERS LOST FROM BARGE
> OFF FLA. COAST
>
> http://www.uscgnews.com/go/doc/4007/2748438/
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Ox meets Practical Sailor

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I'm not sure there was a single article about the 33-1. I think David's
boat was used as an experimental platform to try out different products.
Could be wrong. I recycled my old PS issues a few years ago.
--Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Wed, Nov 18, 2015 at 7:49 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anyone have link to the PS article on David Paine's 33-1 of 25 yrs ago?
>
>
> Barbara L. Hickson
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Changing weight distribution in Landfall 38

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

If it will be very rare to ever need a v-berth house battery for engine
starting, how about, if the need were to arise, disconnect one of the
v-berth batteries, take it aft, and use some jumper cables to get the
engine started.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax. FL
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Re: Stus-List Cabin heat

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

So, it doesn't run on beer.
Maybe that's a good thing.

--Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Mon, Nov 16, 2015 at 12:26 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That's just denatured alcohol. You could burn vodka in an emergency.
>
>
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Stus-List Fwd: Ox Meets Practical Sailor

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

-- Forwarded message --
From: bobmor99 . 
Date: Tue, Nov 17, 2015 at 7:44 PM
Subject: Ox Meets Practical Sailor
To:

(Expanding audience to Stu's List -  disregard reference to River Rats.)

Greetings Fellow Sailors and Mostly River Rats,

Got an email this morning from Darrell Nicholson (editor of Practical
Sailor) showing interest in Ox's electric propulsion project. He'll likely
swing through Jax in January and have a look.

Now the pressure is on. Ox needs more than some lipstick to get ready for a
visit from Practical Sailor. Oh well, I brought this on myself. At least
the Atomic 4 is off the boat and the batteries are in place. I'll just need
to plug-and-play when the remaining components arrive. Always been a
dreamer.

Gotta paint and cut the cabin sole and glass in a transverse beam. Gotta
finish repainting the deck and cabintop. The solar bimini is almost ready.
Could use some new sails, too. Topsides and bottom job are overdue.

And so it goes.

--Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Ox Meets Practical Sailor

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

That would be great, although PS had a 33-1 as a test boat about 25 years
ago.

On Tue, Nov 17, 2015 at 8:14 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Offer OX as a test boat for PS and see if Darrell can get you lots of free
> gear!
>
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Nov 17, 2015, at 20:08, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: bobmor99 . <bobmo...@gmail.com>
> Date: Tue, Nov 17, 2015 at 7:44 PM
> Subject: Ox Meets Practical Sailor
> To:
>
> (Expanding audience to Stu's List -  disregard reference to River Rats.)
>
> Greetings Fellow Sailors and Mostly River Rats,
>
> Got an email this morning from Darrell Nicholson (editor of Practical
> Sailor) showing interest in Ox's electric propulsion project. He'll likely
> swing through Jax in January and have a look.
>
> Now the pressure is on. Ox needs more than some lipstick to get ready for
> a visit from Practical Sailor. Oh well, I brought this on myself. At least
> the Atomic 4 is off the boat and the batteries are in place. I'll just need
> to plug-and-play when the remaining components arrive. Always been a
> dreamer.
>
> Gotta paint and cut the cabin sole and glass in a transverse beam. Gotta
> finish repainting the deck and cabintop. The solar bimini is almost ready.
> Could use some new sails, too. Topsides and bottom job are overdue.
>
> And so it goes.
>
> --Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
> ___
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Veteran

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Are Peace Corps veterans (returnees) included? We took some casualties -
mainly accidents and disease.
Sorry if this is inappropriate.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 5:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you are a veteran , I salute you today and every day.  I thank you for
> your sacrifice and service.
>
> Fair winds,
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

A very important distinction (made before by others) when talking about
rebedding windows/ports/port lights is whether the window is the old style,
i.e. aluminium frame attached to the cabintop and a lens attached to the
frame or, the newer style which is a lens glued directly to the the outside
of the cabintop,

This distinction eluded me for quite awhile when reading threads about
rebedding windows/ports/port lights.

I have the old style windows and am very happy using butyl to seal the
frames to the outside of the cabintop (along with the screws that attach
the frame to the cabintop). (Here, there's a difference between attaching
and sealing.)

The newer windows/ports/port lights rely on a very strong adhesive to both
attach and seal the lens to the outside of the cabintop.

Hope this helps,

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 6:01 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
wrote:

> A lot of people paraise using Butyl tape for attaching windows.
> I have not done it, but I can see the results on my C Hull/Deck joint,
> and it looks pretty good
> Ahmet
>
> 
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List New to me C 33

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Hi Paul,
Are the port frames salvageable? It's not too hard to put in new lenses.
I've used butyl between the frames and the cabintop and black 4200 to seal
the lenses into the frames. No leaks - finally.
As for the layup schedule, I'd just overbuild it until the extra fiberglass
is almost noticeable.
Great boat!
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 5:16 PM, Paul Wyand via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have purchased a 1976 C 33 MK I that had some fire damage (due to a
> fire on a neighboring boat) to the outside of the starboard side of the
> hull. she is floating but dirty all around. I am planing on doing  a modest
> restore on her. I am not looking for perfection but for a nice fun to sail
> boat that I will also live on. The previous owner was kind of a down to
> basics kind of guy. No shore power, no real electronics hank on sails. his
> daughter said that they tried to talk him into self tailing winches, and he
> said "what do I need self tailers for? I have you to tail the lines!" Has
> lots of sails, and the rest of the boat appears to be pretty good. So the
> plan is this winter clean up the interior, get shore power set up and some
> sort of heat so I can spend at least weekends on board working on the boat.
> I have her in a winter wet storage slip and the everything is winterized
> except the engine. she has the mast down and winter cover frame is up. Once
> I am in the final "winter slip" I will winterize the engine. Once the
> weather warms up enough I will have the boat hulled and I will do
> fiberglass repairs and paint the exterior. So a couple of questions:
>
> 1.) First and really simple, where is the cushion for the double bunk
> supposed to go when not in use? I don't see any simple locations. I have
> moved it as there is a bit of deck leaking over that settee.
>
> 2.) There was some damage to the side of the hull, and the neighboring
> boat's mast came down on the cabin top. There is some cracking on the cabin
> top, soft side deck and both of the fixed ports are damaged.
>
> Obviously the ports are long off the market. I see a couple of options
> make over-sized ports and surface mount to the cabin top sides both sides.
> (likely least expensive)
> Get all new opening Bomar Gray 6X23 inch ports. Looks like they may fit,
> has anyone installed them?
> Get two bomar ports and move one of the existing ports over and have two
> fixed and two opening ports (saves some money but the lenses on the
> existing ports are not great and looks like someone has tried to stop leaks
> with caulk, so may just be full of frustration)
>
> 3.) Where can I find out the fiberglass layup schedule? I want to
> duplicate it as much as possible. I have read that they used unidirectional
> roving on the boat. My plan on the hull side is to put a few layers on
> inside just to hold the shape, then from the outside to grind down till I
> get to good glass and build back up from there. On the cabin top and side
> decks I plan on cutting off the top layer of fiberglass and replacing core
> and re-glass. Then paint the topsides and deck with one part paint and call
> it a day.
>
> Good news is the boat has a Atomic 4 that runs like a champ! Made the 25
> mile trip from storage yard to new home without a hiccup.
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications - Yard Service quality

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

My $.02,

This sailing stuff is just a hobby. It's up to the owner to detect and deal
with whatever design or maintenance shortcomings manifest themselves. If
something seems awry, it's up to the owner to decide whether to DIY or hire
out the fix. If it's the latter, then ask around. DIY = fewer problems
(often) and more eventual knowledge (always).

--Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Fri, Oct 30, 2015 at 2:00 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Here is a good one,
>
> So, the yard where my new to me boat was stored for it's entire life, did
> all, or supervised all the work on this boat.  The PO was actually an owner
> of the yard!  I had to listen to the yard manager/partner talk about how
> great his reputation was and how good his work is and lecture me on my
> electrical tester and even said that my electrical crimper (yes the one
> Wally recommended) was not correct for the task.  Now as get further and
> further into the boat, I'm finding wire connections with nothing but tape,
> some residential barrel connectors with not even tape over them, taped
> joins in the bilge, hoses disconnected and left plugged off laying in the
> bilge, wires disconnected with just tape on the end...  and this is just
> the superficial investigation...
>
> All the talk in the world won't make shoddy work better...  I really have
> a hard time trusting anyone to work on my stuff either.
>
> On the other hand, when I was still out in the field doing plumbing, I
> always found I'd rather pull things back just a bit further and do a better
> job than to try and patch things up and get out of there.  I really haven't
> met too many people with that attitude.  Of course I never owned the
> company, I was always on the payroll and I just did my best to avoid a call
> back.  So, I guess it really as much self preservation as doing right by a
> customer.  That and knowing that doing it right is always less of an ass
> ache than trying to hack it...  IMHO  ...I'd let me work on my house!!  LOL
>
> Danny
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

David,
Thanks for sharing - very inspirational, especially for a fellow 33-1'er.
I can't imagine how you got a belowdeck autopilot installed. It's hard
reaching the quadrant even after removing my A4, exhaust system, fuel tank,
et al. Need to lose some weight I guess.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 2:50 PM, David Paine via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> As I mentioned last spring as part of a question about life rafts, I had
> planned to sail  my C  solo to Bermuda and back (double handed) in
> the Bermuda1-2 race.  I did,  It was fun, it was terrifying, it was
> expensive to prepare for, and it was frustrating as I did not do well (dfl)
> in my class in part because of the high winds and seas near the gulf stream
> probably favored the  HR49 and other heavyweights in my class but mostly
> because I was climbing a steep learning curve.   Of course, a C won
> the return and did well on the way there so (in my case) it's the sailor
> not the boat.  In preparation for the next one, I need to resolve a few
> issues with the boat and a lot with the skipper.  I was putting together a
> list that I thought I would share.
>
> (1)  The autopilot has to be more than bullet proof.   I thought my below
> deck pilot was, but I was wrong, and as a result I found myself upside down
> in the cockpit locker and crawling deep underneath the cockpit floor in
> horrible conditions to tighten bolts that allowed the tiller arm to slip
> (no woodruff key or slot to put it in).  I lost a lot of time bobbing
> around with the sails down repairing the autopilot or sleeping.   The fix
> for this one is obvious but will require dismantling the quadrant and
> figuring out how to bolt the tiller arm to it.  Other issues with the
> autopilot were completely my own fault as I made changes to the electronics
> but did not have time to proof test the changes.
>
> (2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and it did
> repeatedly) the engine instruments are going to get wet.  This is not good
> as the switches will (and did) fail, I am considering relocation or
> creating a waterproof cover.
>
> (3) Following seas WILL drive water up the tailpipe and into the engine.
> As a result, I sailed into St Georges harbor and up to the customs dock
> then I spent a day in Bermuda sucking water out of the engine and drying it
> out enough to get it started.   For the return trip, I put a plug in the
> exhaust pipe but the plug was washed out in the "washing machine like
> conditions" and ... we got to sail the boat into the Newport Yacht Club
> dock at 3:00 am on no sleep.  Then spend another day pumping oily water out
> of the engine.  Yeah, slow learner.
>
> (4)  The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on the starboard side but by
> the time I got to Bermuda, the tank had a quart of water in it (which I
> siphoned out).  Good filters (a racor) helped but I need to relocate the
> vent -- the question is where?  It may not be wise but on the return trip I
> wrapped the vent with tape (which, if I had run the engine I would have
> removed)   A better solution is needed.
>
> (5)  Reefing has to be quick and easy -- I spent far too much time
> screwing up enough courage to go to the mast to reef and shake-out.  My
> current reefing system (probably original to the boat) has a winch on the
> boom which makes the first reef fine but I used all three reef points and
> releasing the last reef before pulling in the next in 35-40 kn of breeze is
> a nightmare.   I need to work on leading the lines to the cockpit.
>
> (6) A removable inner forestay and a blade foresail might be nice.  My new
> furling 130 spent a lot of time furled 50% and that really has screwed up
> the shape of my formerly new and now blown out 130.
>
> (7) The boat was reasonably dry inside (a result of hours of rebedding
> hardware) but somehow the mast collar leaked like a sieve.  The boot looks
> perfect so it has to be the where the Al collar (mast partners) meets the
> deck -- who would have thought that the one place I didn't rebed would be a
> problem!
>
> (8) Hoisting a radar reflect on a flag halyard to the spreaders seems like
> a good idea until the line breaks and you lose both.
>
> (9) The one turnbuckle that I did not wire was the port diamond stay.
> Turns out the mast will stay up without this - whew!   It is extremely
> unnerving to see a piece of wire swinging around at night in a blow.  Wire
> everything. And use lock tight on critical bolts -- my solar panel broke
> loose as a result of a bolt getting unscrewed.
>
> (10)  Fighting with a 10 foot long spinnaker pole to fly the spin gets
> really old. Luckily the wind only died down enough to fly the spinnaker at
> the end of the race but if the conditions had been more benign, I would
> have had to fly the spinnaker much more.   An assymetrical with a short
> prod would be nice (but probably outside my ability to rationalize the
> spending).
>
> (11) Getting a 

Re: Stus-List Strengths of Various Adhesives

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Where's butyl?
(There's a roll in my refrigerator.)
I guess butyl's more of a sealant than an adhesive.
Not sure about that terminology, though.

--Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 4:40 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I did a bit of quick research on adhesives.  My quick look and the
> terminology may lead to inaccuracies.  I am not a materials engineer.  For
> instance, shear strength numbers were either listed as shear strength or
> lap shear strength, then there is dynamic vs static whatever.  Please take
> the info with a LARGE grain of salt.
>
> I listed the references so you can look them up yourself.
>
> This may interest some.
>
> Material
>
> Static or Lap Shear strength, psi
>
> Tensile strength, psi
>
> Reference
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Plexus MA530
>
> 1600-2200
>
> 3000-3500
>
>
> http://www.rshughes.com/p/Plexus-MA530-Black-Methacrylate-Adhesive-50-Gal-Drum-Shear-Strength-1600-To-2200-Psi-Tensile-Strength-3000-To-3500-Psi/plexus_it206/
>
> Sika
>
> n/a
>
> 160
>
> https://www.google.com/search?q=sika+295uv+shear+strength=utf-8=utf-8
>
> 3M 5200
>
> 360 (fiberglass)
>
> 630-705
>
>
> http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/158782O/adhesive-sealant-5200-tech-data.pdf
>
> 3M 4200
>
> 20-165
>
> 180
>
>
> http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/891179O/3m-marine-fast-cure-general-purpose-adhesive-sealant-4200fc.pdf
>
> LifeSeal
>
> 240
>
> 290
>
>
> http://www.boatlife.com/content/NEED%20LifeSealR%20POLYURETHANE-SILICONE%20SEALANT.pdf
>
> 3M VHB tape 59XX
>
> 1000
>
> 90-100
>
> https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/67100O/3mtm-vhb-tapes.pdf
>
> Dennis C.
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Stus-List Solar Bimini - Frame Connector Source

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Looking to build a solar bimini (rigid, no canvas) for Ox, a 1976 33-1.
Today I bought a perfectly dimensioned 285W solar panel.

https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/ele/5238729049.html

I need a support structure and will probably source some 1" stainless
tubing from Speedy Metals:

http://www.speedymetals.com/c-8276-round-tube.aspx?thickness=1

Not sure where best to find the various stainless connectors, i.e. jaws,
eyes.

SailRite seems like a possibility but I'm wondering if there's anything
better. (I googled a bit) :-)

Thanks in advance,

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
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Stus-List Atomic 4 Spare Parts Available

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

My A4 reached its end of life at the same time that I reached my end of
patience so it is out to make room for a replacement from Electroprop. The
various bits and pieces will soon be on Craigslist (Jacksonville). Not sure
how shipping and all that works (especially to Canada). I'm just looking
for some sort of "fair market value" (or less). Among the pieces is a brand
new, stainless exhaust riser.  If there's no interest, it will be mounted
as an objet d'art in the saloon.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List Darwin’s List

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Local (Jacksonville, FL) media has reported that the ship's lifeboat(s) can
handle these conditions and it's just a matter of time before the
lifeboat(s) and/or the ship are located. Sorry, can't find a link to the
local reporting.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Fri, Oct 2, 2015 at 6:59 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I don’t think so, as that hurricane has been in the same place for several
> days. Plus, every delivery company has exclusions for ‘Acts of God” e.g.
> Bad weather –
>
> Not even the most rabid lawyer would poke a shipper for not delivering
> into a hurricane.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C 39 Erie, PA[image: animated_favicon1]
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Steve
> Staten via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, October 02, 2015 6:15 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Steve Staten
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Darwins List
>
>
>
> A captain wouldn’t do that but an owner sitting in an office might order a
> captain to do such a thing. Contracts with penalties for late delivery are
> serious things. After all, the Xmas shopping season is almost here.
>
>
>
> I’m not a sailor. I simply bought my boat and sail it in a lake when the
> weather’s peachy. However, I have to ask: is it possible that the container
> ship either couldn’t turn around in time or that it was not safe in port?
> Any merchant mariners on the list?
>
>
>
> Steve Staten
>
> Langley, OK, USA
>
> “C’est La Vie”
>
> C 27
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill
> Coleman via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, October 02, 2015 4:49 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Bill Coleman
> *Subject:* Stus-List Darwins List
>
>
>
>
>
> Who in their right mind would take a Container Ship, of all things, into a
> known, sitting Cat 4  Hurricane?
>
>
> Container ship hit by Hurricane Joaquin lost, Coast Guard searching
>
>
> http://weatherplus.blog.palmbeachpost.com/2015/10/02/container-ship-hit-by-hurricane-joaquin-lost-coast-guard-searching/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C 39 Erie, PA[image: animated_favicon1]
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List boat names

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Years ago, I had to come up with a name for my then-new-to-me 33-1 prior to
transiting a drawbridge for the first time.
I didn't want to ID myself as "the nameless white sailboat returning to
sea".
Bridge tender: "How do you spell that?".

It's just six pieces of tape, which have long since fallen off. It's
somewhere on my list...
Was briefly called "Hugs and Kisses", after additional OXs were
surreptitiously added by a beercan race competitor.

Also, 0x is a prefix denoting a hexadecimal value (if you're into computer
stuff).

Bridge tender: "Is that 'oh X' or 'zero X'?".

--Oxman
C 33-1
Jax, FL


On Wed, Sep 16, 2015 at 9:53 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> OK coming up with a new name for our new boat is proving very difficult.
>
> I thought I would throw it out to you guys for some ideas!
>
> Maybe you came across something sometime and thought wow what a great name
> for a boat!
>
> I can't believe this is so difficult... Lol
>
> Danny
> ___
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>
>
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Stus-List Background Not Included

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

http://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/50463
Impressive interior.
With the demise of SLR photography, I get visually confused by many
sailboat photos that have boat(s) in the background. (e.g. Is that a
three-masted ketch?) I initially thought that this was some sort of
mega-sailboat with a trawler superstructure on the foredeck. Not exactly a
foredeck cow, but confusing nonetheless.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List CC 33 - I aft lowers

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I just checked mine and noted that the upper attaches aft.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Tue, May 5, 2015 at 10:03 AM, David Paine via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Hi All,

 CC 33 - 1 with two sets of lowers: forward and aft.  They attach at two
 attachment points on the mast, one slightly higher than the other and both
 just below the spreaders.   Do the forward lowers attach at the highest
 point or the one 2 inches lower?

 Thanks!

 David

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Re: Stus-List High Temp Exhaust System Sealant

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Thank you Martin.

On Wed, May 6, 2015 at 8:42 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  NAPA sells exhaust rated sealant that works similar to silicone sealer.
 The tube I have is a reddish orange color.  I have used it on parts of
 Calypso’s Perkins 4-108 exhaust where it works fine.



 Martin DeYoung

 Calypso

 1971 CC 43

 Seattle


 [image: Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
 *bobmor99
 . via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Wednesday, May 06, 2015 5:36 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Cc:* bobmor99 .
 *Subject:* Stus-List High Temp Exhaust System Sealant



 Awhile ago I posted about my Home Depot galvanized A4 exhaust riser
 replacement and got lots of advice about using a continuous piece of
 stainless steel instead.

 It just so happens that a friend of mine with an A4, in an out of the way
 port with no access to stainless steel, has a (probably) galvanized exhaust
 riser that is leaking a little at connections between the pipe and the 90
 degree elbows. Is there any sort of high temperature sealant I can suggest?

 Bob M

 Ox 33-1

 Jax, FL



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Stus-List High Temp Exhaust System Sealant

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Awhile ago I posted about my Home Depot galvanized A4 exhaust riser
replacement and got lots of advice about using a continuous piece of
stainless steel instead.

It just so happens that a friend of mine with an A4, in an out of the way
port with no access to stainless steel, has a (probably) galvanized exhaust
riser that is leaking a little at connections between the pipe and the 90
degree elbows. Is there any sort of high temperature sealant I can suggest?

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List Sailor rescued of North Carolina

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I believe the guy. Alberg-35s are going to float for a long while. Lots of
logistics to get off and back on the boat to be rescued.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Wed, Apr 8, 2015 at 3:18 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 What's the list's take on this guy?

 
 http://news.yahoo.com/missing-sailor-survived-staying-inside-rationing-185316000.html
 

 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA



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Re: Stus-List Marvel Mystery Oil

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

If you have an Atomic 4, you could try removing one of the spark plugs.

On Sun, Feb 22, 2015 at 8:19 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

   Does anyone know how to safely remove Marvel Mystery Oil from the male
 genitalia?  I sent an email to Moyer Marine but haven't heard back.



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Re: Stus-List Furling the main

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I've marked my main's luff folding points with alternating red and green
permanent markings. Over the years the main has learned that this is how
it's going to happen. When lowering the main it's easy to instruct
mixologian crew to put the green marks to their left (they're facing aft).
This keeps Mister Mxyzptlk at bay.
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Re: Stus-List Hand crank vs Starter battery

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Ox has a V-drive so the A4 is installed backwards. There is no way a
crank could be turned in the limited space at the back of the engine. Maybe
there's an adapter that will fit a right angle drill e.g.
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/0721-21
similar to the connector on Moyer's A4 hand crank.
http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?preadd=actionkey=MISC_01_74
That could be useful if your starter has crapped out or the batteries are
low - and the right-angle drill has a good battery pack.
I've never been successful push-starting Ox.  :-)
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Tue, Feb 3, 2015 at 11:34 AM, Kirkpatrick, Jay via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 ‎Today's discussion about a electrical batter connections and starting
 batteries reminded me that there is reference to a starting crank handle in
 my Atomic4 manual. I used to have a staring crank with my old Land Rover
 that was always entertaining to use, but surprisingly easy way to start the
 truck if the starter or battery failed.
 Does anyone have experience with hand cranking the Atomic4?





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Re: Stus-List Latest Chartplotters.

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Bill,
That functionality will be in the the next release. The current version
will upload images of your receding boat to the cloud. VBG - as Wal would
say.
Bob M


On Mon, Feb 2, 2015 at 5:08 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


 I thought it you fell over and were watching your boat sail off into the
 sunset, it would be great to be able to pull your phone out of your pocket,
 assuming it still worked, and turn your boat around.  Maybe the Remote
 would still do that,













  --


 That zeus sounds interesting.Would be nice to have the laylines.  Are
 they set at 45 dgrees?  Can you set them lower?

 Chuck
 Regards
--

*François Rivard*

  4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw

Big Data Black Belt

  Atlanta, 30327-3015

 IBM Sales  Distribution, Software Sales

  Usa

 Mobile:

 770-639-0429



e-mail:

 jfriv...@us.ibm.com










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 --

 Joel
 301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List CC 30 never sailed

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

If I had to look for a keel for my boat, I'd look elsewhere.
Bob M.
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Sun, Dec 14, 2014 at 8:29 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 A lot of derelicts would kill for this boat. A $120 window air
 conditioner, a can of sterno and a sleeping bag. Home, sweet, home.

 Dennis C.

 Sent from my iPhone

  On Dec 14, 2014, at 6:19 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
  WTF??  No keel? I could guess this boat was somehow bought at a
 bankruptcy sale from CC. Unless you have one already with a damaged hull I
 can't see what you could do with it.
 
  Sent from my iPhone
 
  On Dec 14, 2014, at 18:27, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
  Was there a previous message under a different subject line?
  Ron
  Wild Cheri
 
  
  On Sun, 12/14/14, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
  Subject: Stus-List CC 30 never sailed
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Date: Sunday, December 14, 2014, 1:27 PM
 
 
  Interesting, If already have one or
  could find a donor boat cheap you build very your own
  spanking brand new CC 30 for peanuts. Heck of a
  project.
 
 
 
 
 
  Regards
 
 
  -Francois Rivard
 
  1990 34+ Take
  Five
 
  Lake Lanier,
  Georgia
 
  -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
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Stus-List A4 Joy

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

After some recent starting issues I hired a local A4 owner/mechanic to
install an Indigo electronic ignition kit. The (warm) engine started right
up many times and the idle was fine-tuned for optimal operation.
A week later the engine wouldn't start. I was able to confirm spark at a
spark plug. A few texts later the mechanic suggested adjusting the idle -
which solved the problem.
So I guess the point of my story for fellow A-fourians is - don't give up
the ship. Sometimes it just takes a quarter turn on an idle screw and
you're back in business.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List CC 33-I Spreaders?

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Hi David,
Not much help for your 33-1 spreader search...
I'm not sure if the spreader tip is somehow integral to the rod rigging
juncture there. If so, replacing the spreader might require extra pieces.
Does your rig have the diamond shroud refit? That would add an additional
connection at the spreader tip.
Maybe you could take the good spreader, scan/photograph it, and send it to
an online manufacturing site. (Perhaps they could make it in carbon fiber.)
I don't have any experience with those operations but they seem like a
growing possibility for replacement parts for our old boats.

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Wed, Dec 3, 2014 at 6:26 PM, David Paine via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Hi All,

 I just took my mast down (original mast on a 1975 CC 33) for some work
 and was horrified to find that one of my spreaders is cracked in a not-good
 way.  Ideally, I'd like to replace it -- does anyone know where such a part
 could be found?  It's an airfoil shaped section that tapers toward the
 shrouds.

 Thanks,

 David

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Re: Stus-List Overpriced?

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I carry liability but not hull insurance. If Ox sinks, I cry for a day.
Insurance covers environmental impact charges.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Sun, Oct 26, 2014 at 3:36 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Thanks everyone for your thoughts on this...I am now comforted to
 know my investment made in 2006 has doublednow should I convince my
 insurance company of this?


 Rob Abbott
 AZUARA
 CC 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List 1975 CC 33 Mk1 Tiller Head

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Tom,
I can email you some pics of an abandoned rudderstock autopilot project for
Ox, a 33-1.
A couple of the highlights include a tape measure.
Contact me off-list at bobmo...@gmail.com
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Sun, Oct 19, 2014 at 8:40 AM, Tom Carmichael via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Hi Danny,
 That would be great if you could get some pictures of the tiller head. My
 rudder stock is on the cockpit sole and has a 1-1/8 square top.
 Tom.



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Re: Stus-List Butyl

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I used a roll of grey butyl tape from an RV store (along with the
original screws) to secure the aluminum portlight frames to the cabintop on
my 1976 33-1. Note these are old style portlights, not the newer frameless
acrylic(?) portlights that folks like to secure to the cabintop with
Sikaflex.. Any excess butyl was easily cleaned up with a razor blade.

Tip: Cool it down to make it less sticky when working with it. I used the
refrigerator but next time would try the freezer.

I love butyl. If I had dentures I'd keep some in my medicine cabinet.

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 9:34 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 The one thing I have always hated about Butyl was trying to remove it from
 where it was not wanted.  Old fittings being rebidded that had been using
 butyl would always result in butyl stuck everywhere on non skid and nearly
 impossible to remove.  Is there some sort of cleaner/solvent that rids us
 of that?



 Mike

 Still sailing in Nova Scotia on Persistence



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Re: Stus-List Online Captains License or class room?

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Fred, could you elaborate on this? I might be misunderstanding - not
unusual - but it sounds like having a CG/6-pack/whatever license increases
one's liability on the water. He should have known better, he was
licensed.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Fri, Oct 3, 2014 at 5:21 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Agreed on the 2nd point.  And yes, there are still time-on-the-water
 requirements:

 http://www.maritimeinstitute.com/license_requirements.html

 I’ve been torn on the whole question of getting licensed; yes, you can
 captain vessels for pay (deliveries, excursions, etc.).  But even if you’re
 not “on the clock” and are involved in an accident (like on your own
 vessel), whether or not you’re at fault, there are some legal ramifications
 that aren’t there if you’re not CG-licensed.

 So I’ve held off on getting my ticket.

 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 On Oct 3, 2014, at 4:17 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I always understood the on-the-water hours qualification was the more
 limiting restriction.  Is that not in place anymore?

 I know a lot of licensed captains out there aren’t worth a damn.  IE:  It
 takes more than just passing a test.



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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

FWIW, There's a 1979 Landfall recently for sale in Jacksonville, FL for
$31K.
http://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/45617
Not clear where the boat's titled. The phone number has a Mexican country
code.

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 8:41 PM, Berry Fox via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Hi, I'm seriously considering a LF38.



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Re: Stus-List CNG for stove

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

FWIW, Jacksonville, FL looks to be getting into consumer CNG availability.

http://jacksonville.com/news/metro/2014-07-30/story/jacksonville-cng-station-entire-public-its-way-prompting-forecasts

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Fri, Sep 12, 2014 at 7:59 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  I have cng. Safer but harder to source.  also less heat

 Mike
 Persistence





 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List on behalf of Gary Nylander via CnC-List
 Sent: Fri 12/09/2014 4:56 PM
 To: Rick Brass; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG for stove

 There are some boat yards which trade tanks, you give the old, they give
 the new - for a fee. Ours does just that.

 Gary
   - Original Message -
   From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
   To: Richard N. Bush ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
   Sent: Friday, September 12, 2014 12:02 AM
   Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG for stove


   Converting your stove from CNG to propane is simply a matter of changing
 the orfices in the burners. My new Frigidaire gas stove (in the home)
 actually came with a set of each. The CNG jets were factory installed and
 the LPG  in a package attached to the installation instructions. The
 delivery people installed the LPG jets when they installed the stove. Talk
 to an appliance vendor.


   I don't think I've ever heard of a CNG stove in an RV, so the lack of
 information is not surprising.


   Your tank and regulator should have manufacturer labels on them. See if
 the manufacturer can identify the local installer for you.


   The CNG system is another matter. CNG is methane gas and lighter than
 air so no need for a vented locker, sensors, etc. The tank is at much
 higher pressures in order to store a useful amount of gas (systems on
 forklift trucks can be up to 3000 psi) and you still store a lot less fuel
 than in a similar size LPG tank. There is probably an expensive two stage
 regulator to bring the gas pressure down to 2-3psi. And it is hard to find
 anyone to fill your tank. You might ask your municipal gas company or the
 local bus company if they can either fill the tank or identify someone who
 can.


   The benefits to CNG are that it is safer than LPG, it burns hotter so
 cooks faster, and it is ridiculously inexpensive (which is why most new
 buses run on it).


   Rick Brass

   Sent from my iPad

   On Sep 11, 2014, at 15:59, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


 Does anyone on the list use CNG for their stove?  If so, could you
 tell me about how it works, suppliers, and pitfalls? My boat came with a
 CNG stove and full tank of CNG; the system seems to be in good condition,
 but I'm too intimidated by it to try it before having someone check it
 out;  but there is no one in our area, (meaning RV dealers) who has any
 knowledge of how it works or useful information; I have looked into
 converting the stove to propane, which means purchasing a new stove and
 full propane system, $$$; many thanks for any info or help;

 Richard
 1985 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584


 Richard N. Bush Law Offices
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
 502-584-7255


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Re: Stus-List Maiden voyage

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Thank you  Burt.
I'll watch videos like yours all day long - especially while at work.
Your boat looks a lot nicer (and more modern) than my 1976 33-1.
Is that the original rig?

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Mon, Aug 18, 2014 at 6:02 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Just set sail for the first time on my 1974 33 ¾ tonner. Couldn’t have
 picked a better day. For those of you in the area I am just north of the
 Mount Hope bridge close hauled into a nice SW breeze.. maybe 15 G20. Take a
 peek. It’s a short video. Sorry for all the wind noise. Nothing you can do
 about that. Also, as my kids always say, “hold the camera sideways” Yup
 forgot to do that …. Again.



 Be kind please. I am a newbe.



 Skip

 Portsmouth, RI



 http://youtu.be/SB-eeYOiZes



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Re: Stus-List what happened to this boat?

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Looks like an eviction.


On Mon, Aug 18, 2014 at 10:46 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 looks like she washed ashore...



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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Hi Danny,
This is a long email thread. I've read much of it but scanned over some
parts.
A couple of things:
1) The Moyer Marine website is a better source of A4 info and help.
2) My 33-1 came with a newly rebuilt A4 in 2006. It's performed fairly well
for daysailing. I rarely run the engine for more than ~30 minutes. Somewhat
recently, after motoring awhile (20 minutes?), the engine hesitated. I have
a pump-bulb close to the fuel tank. It was somewhat flaccid, as pump-bulbs
go, so I gave it a few pumps and the engine ran fine thereafter. I'm
thinking there's some sort of blockage in the fuel tank vent but I've not
spent any time looking into it.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
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Stus-List Shannon 38

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I've been an 8-9 year consumer of Stu's List wisdom - mostly contributing
questions and an occasional opinion. I'm curious what people think of the
Shannon 38, referenced below, as a retirement boat for bumping up and down
the US East Coast. I realize it's not a CC but the opinions of many on the
list are held in high regard. The dismasting and repair are of special
interest.

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1978/Shannon-staysail-Cutter-2644578/Shelter-Island/NY/United-States#.U-qVSONdWSo

Cheers,

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List FleaBay scores - anyone get anything good lately?

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I got my boat on eBay.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Thu, Jul 10, 2014 at 9:31 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 My knotmeter, and old Standard-Horizon SL1 for the 80s, died some time
 ago. The paddlewheel went first and the display was pretty bad too. I have
 been searching for YEARS for a replacement and never found one. I managed
 to find TWO on FleaBay brand new with transducers and got both of them :) I
 guess I could have got a newer replacement, but then the thru-hull would be
 the wrong size and need replacing and the new ones are a different form
 factor and don't fit the old hole. I am not sure I will mess with it, but
 the displays can be wired to each other and both display boat speed.
 My depthfinder is likewise an ancient Standard-Horizon and is slowly
 dying. It works fine as far as figuring out how deep it is, but the LCD
 display is losing contrast bit by bit. I can only read it by wearing
 polarized glasses and turning my head to just the right angle. I managed to
 get a S-H DS41 on FleaBay never been used. This fits a standard 2 inch hole
 and as a bonus can send NMEA depth out or be configured to repeat NMEA
 depth in sentences. So far my plan is run the data to the laptop so I can
 see actual water depth on my charts below.
 I have been getting a bunch of LED bulbs over the past year too and my hit
 rate on good ones has been about 75%. Considering how cheap they are there
 is little risk to taking a chance. I have one someplace that makes a hash
 of the SSB I have to track down and replace.

 Joe Della Barba
 Coquina
 CC 35 MK I

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Stus-List Geezer One-upmanship: Was: java updates

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

On Fri, May 16, 2014 at 11:49 AM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 You are too young, by at least 10 years  ;-)


That's 2 in decimal.

Back in the day,
We programmed in 1's and 0's.
Well, we had to program in 1's
We only had el's
(From an old Dilbert)

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
(Tcl still putting bread on my table)



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Re: Stus-List PC for cheap

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

DYI - Damn Yankee Ingenuity.

We CCers have tremendous platforms for tinkering - old but solid design
and construction. And, aesthetically correct.

Some like to tinker moving cars and travellers. Others change rudders, rigs
and keels. It's all fun.

Maybe you're thinking about something like the Bic Butane Propane Detector.
Now that's a dumb one.  :-)

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Fri, May 16, 2014 at 3:10 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Think about this in the context of sailboat ownership.

 At one time or another, we've all done it. Some of us still do it.  We all
 know that guy down the pier that's raised it to an art form.

 What?  Doing or fixing something on a sailboat on the cheap that does or
 can lead to less than satisfactory results. Something that may create an
 unsafe condition that may put crew or family at risk. Something that
 eventually will need to be done over the right way and end up costing more
 in the end.

 So..my question is what clever, imaginative, politically correct
 phrase describes cheap?

 I'm talking about literary genius like using deferred success as PC to
 describe failure.

 I've considered irresponsibly frugal, excessively thrifty, etc. but I
 just can't seem to create that aha PC phrase for cheap.

 Dennis C.
 Touché 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, La




 Sent from my iPhone
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