Stus-List Re: Best Telltale Treatment

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Did you try pieces of old cassette tape for ticklers and tell tales

On Mon, Feb 27, 2023 at 11:37 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Great question.  I have used MacLube SailCoat but a waterproofing spray
> may be better.  Just had a sail repaired and will ask the sailmaker when I
> pick it up.
>
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis
>
>
> > On 02/27/2023 10:16 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Listers-
> >
> > What, in your experience, has been the best treatment to apply to
> telltales to keep them from sticking from sails?  I’m talking mostly about
> yarn telltales along a headsail’s luff, but also ripstop nylon telltales on
> a mainsail’s leech?  I’ve noticed that sometimes yarn telltales will stick
> due to static or moisture.  I’d like to find the right magic potion or
> pixie dust to apply to give them the greatest ability possible to fly
> without sticking.  Then, making them fly properly is of course up to the
> crew.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Randy
> > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > Thanks for your help.
> > Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Racing at night

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

A masthead wind instrument works at night. Learn your sail trim vs wind
speed and wind angle in the daylight. Should be the same in the dark

On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 1:01 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just read an interesting article in Practical Sailor on red vs. white
> lights and night vision.  It reminded me to ask a question of those more
> experienced about night racing.  I have only done this a few times and
> found upwind steering at night to be a real challenge.  I normally steer by
> the genoa telltales.  In light, shifting winds which we inevitably
> encounter at the darkest hours, it is especially important to steer well to
> keep the boat moving, but it is hard.   We used a hand held spotlight to
> periodically check the telltales, but that destroys night vision.  Are
> there better solutions?  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Shower

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Add some anti bacterial detergent to the bilge and maybe a cup of
chlorox/javex once in a while

On Wed, Feb 15, 2023 at 7:01 PM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ive found it useful in removing oils.
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
> --
> *From:* Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 15, 2023 12:51:33 PM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* wolf...@erie.net 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Shower
>
>
> Probably the reason for a separate pump and discharge that by-passes the
> bilge.
>
>
>
> *From:* David Risch via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 15, 2023 2:46 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* David Risch 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Shower
>
>
>
> I have heard discharging shower grey water into bilge created a
> soapy/scummy mess in the bilge?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 15, 2023 2:11 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Robert Abbott 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Shower
>
>
>
> My 32 has the same set up...shower hose from the sink facet...sump with a
> teak gratesump pump under the sink for a separate discharge just below
> the toe rail opposite the head starboard side.
>
> All woks fine but never use it.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2023-02-15 1:59 p.m., Matt Wolford via CnC-List wrote:
>
> That was the set-up on the 42 Custom.  A shower hose was integral to the
> sink faucet.  On my boat, the shower head was attached to a wall rack for
> adjusting the height.  The floor is a teak grate with a very thin plastic
> catch pan underneath.  The pan drained to a “sump” pump with a separate
> discharge.  I removed everything but the drain pan, which now has a hose to
> drain to the bilge.  I’m in the process of installing a shower on deck for
> use after swimming.
>
>
>
> *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 15, 2023 12:38 PM
> *To:* Stus-List  
> *Cc:* Bill Coleman  
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Shower drain
>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Thanksgiving Temperatures

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

You are crazy adicted to something. You must be young. I sailed once in dec
snow here in NS not that good fun really

On Mon, Nov 21, 2022 at 12:21 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bur-r-r.  It was 21 degrees at my house in New Jersey this morning.
> Sadly, I winterized my boat on Saturday.  Water temp at the boat near
> Annapolis, was still 49 degrees, but forecast to drop over the next week or
> so.  She will stay in the water this winter, with an automatic bubbler
> system.  I'm still hoping for a last sail some 65 degree day before taking
> the sails off.  It will cost me two gallons of pink stuff to rewinterize
> the engine, but well worth it.
>
> Forecast temperatures for today, low to high:
>
> Halifax, Nova Scotia: 24/34
>
> Juneau, Alaska:  35/37
>
> Erie, Pa: 26/43
>
> Colorado: 27/46
>
> Annapolis:  30/47
>
> Atlantic City, NJ: 32/49
>
> Seattle:  39/51
>
> Atlanta: 36/56
>
> San Francisco:  51/58
>
> New Orleans:  43/59
>
> Charleston:  43/63
>
> Los Angeles: 60/73
>
> Tampa:  56/76
>
> Nassau: 80/81
>
> Have a happy Thanksgiving,
> Chuck Scheaffer, 1989 C 34R, Magothy River, Md
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a
> contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> dwight

-- 
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Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C 35 MK I 170%

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Sailing solo good for you.  I reckon my boat speed going to weather was
only about 1 kt less sailig jib alone but I couldn't  sail as close to the
wind still i had more gentle control with main alone in heavy stuff on my
35 KKII. I liked thst

On Fri, Nov 4, 2022 at 5:18 PM John Conklin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I sail solo 80% of the time on  My 37. She loves to sail with just the 130
> genny! Good up to 18-20knt. As mentioned keeps up with most with no main,
> and still very balanced !   Very little sacrifice in speed. If I could only
> reach the winches from behind the wheel!
>
> John Conklin
> S/v Halcyon
>
>
>
> On Nov 4, 2022, at 2:00 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My boat sails fine with just genoa too.  Only two lines to deal with and
> the cockpit is quiet and less busy.  Great for lunch or snacking.
> It sails fine with just main, also, and tacking in tight quarters is
> easier.   Handles like a laser.
> With a J of 14'10" and an E of 15'1" they are almost the same on a 34R.
>
> Chuck S
>
> On 11/04/2022 10:31 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> My boat sails quite well with just the genoa. Prior to roller furling this
> was a pain, wind changes were sail changes, but now it makes life easy
> cruising 
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> Ps – back in the day the 170s were not exotic racing sails, they were just
> the normal light air sail. They worked (and still work) just fine in the
> light stuff, the biggest issue was seeing around them. I almost t-boned a
> humpback whale that was napping on the surface out of my view on the low
> side, the whale exhaled and sank just enough for us to glide over him. He
> was not happy to be disturbed though, he swam over to ANOTHER boat and did
> a big jump to spray them LOL
>
>
>
> *From:* John McCrea via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, November 3, 2022 10:01 PM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* johnmcc...@comcast.net
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I 170%
>
>
> The good thing about the older design is that when cruising, you can sail
> with just the genoa. I drive some friends crazy with their modern euro
> boats that cannot sail without the main up. I am pushing 7 knots, towing a
> dinghy with a 135 genoa in a 15 knot breeze and they can not keep up under
> full sail. Most modern boats today fall into that category.
>
>
> John McCrea
>
> Talisman
>
> 1979 36-1
>
> Mystic, CT
>
>
> *From:* Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, November 3, 2022 9:34 PM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* wolf...@erie.net
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I 170%
>
>
> I don’t think that’s correct.  My boom is very small compared to the size
> of the boat, and my mast appears to be placed a bit forward of normal.  I
> assume the 1975 design was IOR driven.
>
>
> *From:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, November 3, 2022 4:33 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike ; CHARLES SCHEAFFER <
> cscheaf...@comcast.net>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I 170%
>
>
> I thought the shorter boom was due to designers placing the mast further
> back to get a large J measurement so 150% genoas were bigger.  More sail
> area overall.
>
>
> Chuck S
>
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C 35 MK I 170%

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

That's nice. I know what to mean about tacking main only in heavy air.
Makes a bad day enjoyable

On Fri, Nov 4, 2022 at 3:00 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My boat sails fine with just genoa too.  Only two lines to deal with and
> the cockpit is quiet and less busy.  Great for lunch or snacking.
> It sails fine with just main, also, and tacking in tight quarters is
> easier.   Handles like a laser.
> With a J of 14'10" and an E of 15'1" they are almost the same on a 34R.
>
> Chuck S
>
> On 11/04/2022 10:31 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> My boat sails quite well with just the genoa. Prior to roller furling this
> was a pain, wind changes were sail changes, but now it makes life easy
> cruising 
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> Ps – back in the day the 170s were not exotic racing sails, they were just
> the normal light air sail. They worked (and still work) just fine in the
> light stuff, the biggest issue was seeing around them. I almost t-boned a
> humpback whale that was napping on the surface out of my view on the low
> side, the whale exhaled and sank just enough for us to glide over him. He
> was not happy to be disturbed though, he swam over to ANOTHER boat and did
> a big jump to spray them LOL
>
>
>
> *From:* John McCrea via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, November 3, 2022 10:01 PM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* johnmcc...@comcast.net
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I 170%
>
>
> The good thing about the older design is that when cruising, you can sail
> with just the genoa. I drive some friends crazy with their modern euro
> boats that cannot sail without the main up. I am pushing 7 knots, towing a
> dinghy with a 135 genoa in a 15 knot breeze and they can not keep up under
> full sail. Most modern boats today fall into that category.
>
>
>
> John McCrea
>
> Talisman
>
> 1979 36-1
>
> Mystic, CT
>
>
>
> *From:* Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, November 3, 2022 9:34 PM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* wolf...@erie.net
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I 170%
>
>
> I don’t think that’s correct.  My boom is very small compared to the size
> of the boat, and my mast appears to be placed a bit forward of normal.  I
> assume the 1975 design was IOR driven.
>
>
> *From:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, November 3, 2022 4:33 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike ; CHARLES SCHEAFFER <
> cscheaf...@comcast.net>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I 170%
>
>
> I thought the shorter boom was due to designers placing the mast further
> back to get a large J measurement so 150% genoas were bigger.  More sail
> area overall.
>
>
>
> Chuck S
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Start panel mystery

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

My ammeter had numbers just like the picture of the control panel shown in
that article. The article also shows a wiring diagram.

On Wed, Oct 26, 2022 at 1:57 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It is wired just like the Universal manual diagram except that the jumper
> for the start button was moved to the glow plug plus side so the two
> switches are independent and you can start without pushing the glow plug
> button.  I don’t remember what the ammeter shows when starting but I don’t
> think my gauge has numbers.  I have not installed the glow plug solenoid he
> discusses so that is stock.  Dave
>
> David Knecht
> Rear Commodore
> Thames Yacht Club
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> On Oct 26, 2022, at 12:44 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> How is the ammeter at the control panel wired. Does the charge current
> from the alternator go all the way from the alternator up to the ammeter on
> the instrument panel and then back to the batteries?  I always felt that
> glow plug button was kind of special and I noticed that my ammeter showed
> 30 or more when I depressed it and for as long as it was depressed.
>
> On Wed, Oct 26, 2022 at 1:35 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Here are a few answers to the comments:
>>
>> All of this started with replacement of old switches for new ones. Same
>> wires but each terminal cleaned before attachment.   I find it hard to
>> believe that cleaned terminals and new switches caused a ground fault
>> problem at some remote site that was not there before.  Things were
>> generally working before I did anything. Now nothing works.
>>
>> To Dwights suggestion: After reading that Marine How to article years
>> ago, I replaced all the trailer connectors with heat shrink direct butt
>> splice connectors for each wire. I also installed a Blue Seas ACR/battery
>> switch, so the batteries are supposed to be isolated.
>>
>> I really can’t understand how this problem is affecting both batteries
>> when the two circuits are isolated by the ACR.  When I try to start the
>> engine, everything goes crazy- including both battery volt meter readings.
>> The meter goes completely blank as if both batteries are dead and then
>> voltage slowly recovers over time.
>>
>> I am also mystified by how I can be measuring over 12V on the plus side
>> of the key switch and 10V on the other side when it is on.  That is
>> measured relative to a ground terminal on the tachometer.  There is nothing
>> there except the switch itself, right?  I am guessing that means something
>> in terms of the problem, but I don’t know what.
>> Thanks- Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>> 
>>
>
>> On Oct 26, 2022, at 11:48 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> If you have a Universal M4-30 engine with associated engine control panel
>> with ammeter this article contains some very important information for you
>> to know.
>>  Universal Diesel Engine - Wiring Harness Upgrade - Marine How To
>> <https://marinehowto.com/universal-diesel-engine-wiring-harness-upgrade/>
>> Dwight Veinot
>> C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 11:10 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> More diagnosis- I found that when I checked the voltage at the engine
>>> panel ammeter (where power comes to the panel), it was 12V.  When I checked
>>> at the input side of the key switch it was 12 V.  When I turned the key
>>> switch on, I got 10V on the other pole of the key switch and everywhere
>>> downstream. I am presuming it should be 12V on both sides. I do not
>>> understand what that means and hoping someone else does.  The other weird
>>> thing is that as I have worked on this, there are times when the battery
>>> meter in the cabin bounces all over the place from 9V to 12V and back and
>>> then finally settles at 12.9V.  At the same time, the batteries are
>>> measuring 12.5V.  Something very strange is happening.  Dave
>>>
>>> S/V Aries
>>> 1990 C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>
>>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> HELP!  I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right
>>> direction.  Long descri

Stus-List Re: Start panel mystery

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

How is the ammeter at the control panel wired. Does the charge current from
the alternator go all the way from the alternator up to the ammeter on the
instrument panel and then back to the batteries?  I always felt that glow
plug button was kind of special and I noticed that my ammeter showed 30 or
more when I depressed it and for as long as it was depressed.

On Wed, Oct 26, 2022 at 1:35 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Here are a few answers to the comments:
>
> All of this started with replacement of old switches for new ones. Same
> wires but each terminal cleaned before attachment.   I find it hard to
> believe that cleaned terminals and new switches caused a ground fault
> problem at some remote site that was not there before.  Things were
> generally working before I did anything. Now nothing works.
>
> To Dwights suggestion: After reading that Marine How to article years ago,
> I replaced all the trailer connectors with heat shrink direct butt splice
> connectors for each wire. I also installed a Blue Seas ACR/battery switch,
> so the batteries are supposed to be isolated.
>
> I really can’t understand how this problem is affecting both batteries
> when the two circuits are isolated by the ACR.  When I try to start the
> engine, everything goes crazy- including both battery volt meter readings.
> The meter goes completely blank as if both batteries are dead and then
> voltage slowly recovers over time.
>
> I am also mystified by how I can be measuring over 12V on the plus side of
> the key switch and 10V on the other side when it is on.  That is measured
> relative to a ground terminal on the tachometer.  There is nothing there
> except the switch itself, right?  I am guessing that means something in
> terms of the problem, but I don’t know what.
> Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Oct 26, 2022, at 11:48 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> If you have a Universal M4-30 engine with associated engine control panel
> with ammeter this article contains some very important information for you
> to know.
>  Universal Diesel Engine - Wiring Harness Upgrade - Marine How To
> <https://marinehowto.com/universal-diesel-engine-wiring-harness-upgrade/>
> Dwight Veinot
> C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 11:10 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> More diagnosis- I found that when I checked the voltage at the engine
>> panel ammeter (where power comes to the panel), it was 12V.  When I checked
>> at the input side of the key switch it was 12 V.  When I turned the key
>> switch on, I got 10V on the other pole of the key switch and everywhere
>> downstream. I am presuming it should be 12V on both sides. I do not
>> understand what that means and hoping someone else does.  The other weird
>> thing is that as I have worked on this, there are times when the battery
>> meter in the cabin bounces all over the place from 9V to 12V and back and
>> then finally settles at 12.9V.  At the same time, the batteries are
>> measuring 12.5V.  Something very strange is happening.  Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>> 
>>
>
>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> HELP!  I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right
>> direction.  Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought i
>> would get a head start on a project. My start button has been flakey this
>> summer with now and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to replace
>> key switch, glow plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow but could
>> not get start out so gave up. Engine started fine after rewiring. Come back
>> next week and no response to start button. Battery fine. Lots of messing
>> around but no luck. Come back today and wire in new start button in case
>> old bad. Recheck wiring and realize key switch is wired backwards (does it
>> matter? I guess you are supplying power to downstream stuff when off?). Did
>> not check and misremembered which wire supplied power. Swapped wires on key
>> switch and checked meter and 12v on proper side (bat).All looks good.  Turn
>> on key switch and fuel pump starts as normal. Push start button and
>> nothing. Now i measure 4v at engine panel instead of 12. Battery meters
>> dead display and measuring 4v at its inputs. But 12v at battery and main
>> power switch. Other devices fine. Over an hour now and panel and battery
>> meter up to 6v so seems to be slowly recovering. What is going on? Did i
>> screw something up when key switch was backwards?  Dave
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>
>>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Start panel mystery

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

If you have a Universal M4-30 engine with associated engine control panel
with ammeter this article contains some very important information for you
to know.
 Universal Diesel Engine - Wiring Harness Upgrade - Marine How To

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 11:10 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> More diagnosis- I found that when I checked the voltage at the engine
> panel ammeter (where power comes to the panel), it was 12V.  When I checked
> at the input side of the key switch it was 12 V.  When I turned the key
> switch on, I got 10V on the other pole of the key switch and everywhere
> downstream. I am presuming it should be 12V on both sides. I do not
> understand what that means and hoping someone else does.  The other weird
> thing is that as I have worked on this, there are times when the battery
> meter in the cabin bounces all over the place from 9V to 12V and back and
> then finally settles at 12.9V.  At the same time, the batteries are
> measuring 12.5V.  Something very strange is happening.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Oct 25, 2022, at 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> HELP!  I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right
> direction.  Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought i
> would get a head start on a project. My start button has been flakey this
> summer with now and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to replace
> key switch, glow plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow but could
> not get start out so gave up. Engine started fine after rewiring. Come back
> next week and no response to start button. Battery fine. Lots of messing
> around but no luck. Come back today and wire in new start button in case
> old bad. Recheck wiring and realize key switch is wired backwards (does it
> matter? I guess you are supplying power to downstream stuff when off?). Did
> not check and misremembered which wire supplied power. Swapped wires on key
> switch and checked meter and 12v on proper side (bat).All looks good.  Turn
> on key switch and fuel pump starts as normal. Push start button and
> nothing. Now i measure 4v at engine panel instead of 12. Battery meters
> dead display and measuring 4v at its inputs. But 12v at battery and main
> power switch. Other devices fine. Over an hour now and panel and battery
> meter up to 6v so seems to be slowly recovering. What is going on? Did i
> screw something up when key switch was backwards?  Dave
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I thought of doing just that Joe if I ever lost the mast. Probably close to
impossible to find a replacement. A trawler would work and if not that a
backyard lawn ornament or man cave.

On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 4:09 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Not looking forward to this, I thought I was done fixing this stuff ☹
>
> The stock mast step does not come out without a lot of help from a hammer
> and chisel, I spend days on my knees chopping it out. My new one won’t come
> out either, it is thoroughly epoxied to the boat. I am not sure if I have
> this issue, but if I do I’ll need to work around the mast step. The first
> problem will be the 49 years of old oil, scum, and algae that have made
> that glass probably as nonstick as Teflon.
>
> That bolt sticks up some, I could add layers of G10 glass and epoxy right
> over it and still get the nut back on.
>
> We are talking about the very forward bolt, right? I will be even more
> annoyed if I have to fix ALL of them! All the rest seem to torque up just
> fine and do not look obviously compromised.
>
> If I end up having to take the mast step back apart you might just see the
> first C 35 trawler cruising around!
>
>
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* steven.hickel--- via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 25, 2022 2:59 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* steven.hic...@gmail.com
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt
> material?
>
>
>
> Dennis and Neil, thank you so much for the very quick and extremely
> helpful replies.
>
> Neil, if I understand correctly, you took off all of the fiberglass on top
> of the blocks, and tabbed a fiberglass board on the top and on the forward
> face, creating a boxed corner around them and replacing the lost height.
> And you left the wood blocks in place, encased in more resin, rather than
> replacing them with fiberglass blocks/ boards? Was assuming I'd need to
> replace the blocks to avoid the same issue later.
>
> Looks like I'll need to grind out and replace what seems to be a very
> eaten away backing plate on the bolt. Is there a particular type of (am
> assuming) stainless steel that should be used?
>
> As per the smile. I'm actually addressing that now. And I didn't notice
> the fiberglass separation around the forward smaller bolt until after
> tightening it to close the smile I added a picture before mostly filling
> the gap and will finish fiberglassing it on the first dry day. There seemed
> to be lot of resin and perhaps filler/ mat, instead of cloth in the lower
> area above the joint, though I don't know what's original. Some of it had
> cracked. You can also see a hairline crack in the picture where, after
> grinding exposed it, water drops were slowly leaking out from water in the
> bilge.
>
> As per the mast step, did you have the mast out or is there a way to raise
> it a little and support it from below to get access underneath? Were you
> able to get to the wood board underneath and replace it without grinding
> out that big block of resin between it and the mast step?
>
> The boat is on the hard at evers Marina in the Bronx. Have to get it ready
> to go back in the water in next week. If you come this way from Glen Clove
> and have the time, please reach out. Would be great to get input from
> someone familiar with all of this.
>
> Thank you so much for the help!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: 35 MK I Mainsheet and Vang

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

On Sun, Oct 23, 2022 at 2:18 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> 4:1 is not enough in heavy air. As you increase the purchase (6:1), you
> will have more friction which makes it more difficult to ease the sheet in
> light air. Also, as you increase the purchase, you will have a longer
> sheet, and it will take longer to sheet in and out. I have a 4:1 purchase
> plus a mainsheet winch.  The winch gives me the extra strength I need in
> heavy air, and the 4:1 (rather than 6:1) lets me sheet in and out faster.
> You have to decide what is more important for you.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> Where is your main sheet winch located?  Is it self tailing?
>
> On Sun, Oct 23, 2022 at 9:37 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I just now unrigged the mainsheet and replaced it with a 4:1 mainsheet
>> and cam cleat that I had as a preventer for a proof-of-concept. The
>> preventer has been on the boat for so long I forgot where it came from, but
>> looking at the mainsheet systems online and at Bacons it became obvious
>> this IS a mainsheet so I decided to try it out. So far it has only got a
>> light air test, I am loving the lack of friction compared to the stock
>> system that goes up to the mast and back to a winch.
>> My question is this; will 4:1 be enough? Bacon's has a 6:1 mainsheet for
>> a reasonable price, I can buy that and send the 4:1 back to preventer duty
>> easily enough.
>>
>> While I was at it I noticed the vang, one of those Quick-Vangs with a
>> spring, had the line fed through a turning block far enough from the mast
>> that it had a significant change in tension as the boom swung. I have no
>> idea how I haven't stared at this for decades and not noticed, the yard
>> installed it ages ago and I just never realized they did it wrong. Now the
>> line feeds to a turning block almost at the pivot point, changes in tension
>> will be almost nonexistant.
>>
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>
>>
>> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: 35 MK I Mainsheet and Vang

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I had 7:1 purchase with end boom sheeting and ratchet block at the
bridgedeck traveler and that was bearly enough at above 15 kts apparent on
my 35mKII. She had a higher than normal aspect ratio mainsail owing to the
slightly less than 12 foot E dimension. I think 4:1 won't be good in
anything but light air and definitely not good for not so strong trimmers.

On Sun, Oct 23, 2022 at 1:37 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just now unrigged the mainsheet and replaced it with a 4:1 mainsheet and
> cam cleat that I had as a preventer for a proof-of-concept. The preventer
> has been on the boat for so long I forgot where it came from, but looking
> at the mainsheet systems online and at Bacons it became obvious this IS a
> mainsheet so I decided to try it out. So far it has only got a light air
> test, I am loving the lack of friction compared to the stock system that
> goes up to the mast and back to a winch.
> My question is this; will 4:1 be enough? Bacon's has a 6:1 mainsheet for a
> reasonable price, I can buy that and send the 4:1 back to preventer duty
> easily enough.
>
> While I was at it I noticed the vang, one of those Quick-Vangs with a
> spring, had the line fed through a turning block far enough from the mast
> that it had a significant change in tension as the boom swung. I have no
> idea how I haven't stared at this for decades and not noticed, the yard
> installed it ages ago and I just never realized they did it wrong. Now the
> line feeds to a turning block almost at the pivot point, changes in tension
> will be almost nonexistant.
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Tuning questions - now Loos gauge accuracy

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

C designs do better to weather when the mast has a bend to leward. I
think bend to leward has a significant effect on the slot with consequent
effect on smooth airflow over the sails.

On Fri, Oct 21, 2022 at 10:20 AM Karl Kuzis via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for all the input!
>
> Two comments this morning.
> 1 The cncphotoalbum site appears down, anyone have insight?  or a copy of
> the tuning article?
>
> 2 In some boats (thinking cal 20) leaving lowers loose and uppers just
> snug allowed the rig to bend to leeward and actually improve upwind speed
> without poor pointing.  Not sure how the aerodynamics of all that works but
> sure helped racing. Most of the cal 20 race crews actually removed the aft
> lowers.
>
> as we aren't racing our CnC29 I'm tuning for safety and somewhat
> performance so all input is still welcome!
>
> Respectfully, Karl
>
> Karl Kuzis
> C 29 Mk1 Firefly
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 20, 2022, 12:25 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Looser than what?
>>
>> On Thu, Oct 20, 2022 at 1:17 PM John Irvin via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Some interesting thoughts here. Looser tuning tends to be faster, in my
>>> opinion (C 27-III)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>>> Windows
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From: *Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>> *Sent: *October 20, 2022 9:45 AM
>>> *To: *Stus-List 
>>> *Cc: *Dennis C. 
>>> *Subject: *Stus-List Tuning questions - now Loos gauge accuracy
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hmmm.  Didn't think Loos gauges were terribly inaccurate.  Now I
>>> question them.  Found this article:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://l-36.com/loosaccuracy.php
>>> <https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fl-36.com%2Floosaccuracy.php=05%7C01%7C%7C55952429191249b0d0fd08dab2a147a6%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C638018703003869552%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C=SSPsUFmA2TkbgJwCgKIFjozvAz0YiRn3HsKYC2kvh58%3D=0>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Guess a good rule is to use the same gauge only to return your rig to
>>> settings based on your experience on the water.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I might borrow a neighbor's gauge and compare it to mine.
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>>
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Oct 19, 2022 at 7:55 PM Doug Robinson via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> YO;
>>>
>>> It has been our observation that the Loos gauge readings are relative
>>> and not specific, our gauge will not match yours.  But if you  use my
>>> gauge (or yours) and measure my rig you can use the same gauge to return
>>> to your boat and match settings.   We could be wrong in this.
>>>
>>> One of those races where we interchange crew members, Chris Doyle from
>>> Skip Doyle's boat Rocking Chair was delegated to our boat...first thing
>>> he did was to loosen the rig and we did well. Wish we had kept those
>>> settings, I think we sail to tight.
>>>
>>> Doug Robinson
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> --
>> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Tuning questions - now Loos gauge accuracy

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Looser than what?

On Thu, Oct 20, 2022 at 1:17 PM John Irvin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Some interesting thoughts here. Looser tuning tends to be faster, in my
> opinion (C 27-III)
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows
>
>
>
> *From: *Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *October 20, 2022 9:45 AM
> *To: *Stus-List 
> *Cc: *Dennis C. 
> *Subject: *Stus-List Tuning questions - now Loos gauge accuracy
>
>
>
> Hmmm.  Didn't think Loos gauges were terribly inaccurate.  Now I question
> them.  Found this article:
>
>
>
> https://l-36.com/loosaccuracy.php
> 
>
>
>
> Guess a good rule is to use the same gauge only to return your rig to
> settings based on your experience on the water.
>
>
>
> I might borrow a neighbor's gauge and compare it to mine.
>
> --
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 19, 2022 at 7:55 PM Doug Robinson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> YO;
>
> It has been our observation that the Loos gauge readings are relative
> and not specific, our gauge will not match yours.  But if you  use my
> gauge (or yours) and measure my rig you can use the same gauge to return
> to your boat and match settings.   We could be wrong in this.
>
> One of those races where we interchange crew members, Chris Doyle from
> Skip Doyle's boat Rocking Chair was delegated to our boat...first thing
> he did was to loosen the rig and we did well. Wish we had kept those
> settings, I think we sail to tight.
>
> Doug Robinson
>
>
>
>
>
-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Tuning questions - now Loos gauge accuracy

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

For wire rigging I tested my Loos gauge compared to the gauge on my Navtec
hydraulic backstay for tension in the backstay. The correlation was very
close and indiscernible given the small but calibrated gauge on the Navtec
unit.

On Thu, Oct 20, 2022 at 10:44 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hmmm.  Didn't think Loos gauges were terribly inaccurate.  Now I question
> them.  Found this article:
>
> https://l-36.com/loosaccuracy.php
>
> Guess a good rule is to use the same gauge only to return your rig to
> settings based on your experience on the water.
>
> I might borrow a neighbor's gauge and compare it to mine.
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Oct 19, 2022 at 7:55 PM Doug Robinson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> YO;
>>
>> It has been our observation that the Loos gauge readings are relative
>> and not specific, our gauge will not match yours.  But if you  use my
>> gauge (or yours) and measure my rig you can use the same gauge to return
>> to your boat and match settings.   We could be wrong in this.
>>
>> One of those races where we interchange crew members, Chris Doyle from
>> Skip Doyle's boat Rocking Chair was delegated to our boat...first thing
>> he did was to loosen the rig and we did well. Wish we had kept those
>> settings, I think we sail to tight.
>>
>> Doug Robinson
>>
>>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: anyone try this chafe guard?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I used snatch blocks attached to the toe rail, one on either side and aft
of the tracked roller cars to prevent jib sheets chafing the cockpit
coaming on their way to the winch. Worked fine on a 35MKII

On Sat, Oct 1, 2022 at 10:11 AM MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was told by a customer this week that it does not hold up very well.
> Nevertheless it looks like something that is worth trying.
>
> Mike Brannon
> Virginia Lee - 93295
> C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
>
> On Sep 12, 2022, at 4:09 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I need 3 chafe guards, what I did was measure the radius it was going on
> and bought some SS tubing to fit that radius.
> Then cut it longitudinally in quarters and cleaned  the edges up, & buffed
> it out. Going to stick it on with 5200,  Just another thought. I think for
> the anchor, I will glue a piece of urethane where the chain rubs. Chain can
> make a mess of SS.
>
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie PA
>
> On Thu, Sep 8, 2022 at 12:11 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> https://www.nowearguard.com/
>>
>>
>>
>> It sure looks nice. I am tempted to use it on the bow where the anchor
>> tends to hit the boat.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>>
>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>>
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: engine temp gage stuck 160

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I think you have a universal M4-30. There is a recommended fix for the
trailer connectors in the wiring harness as well as sending current from
the alternator all the way thru the ammeter before getting to the battery.

On Wed, Sep 28, 2022 at 3:19 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Noticed when my engine was off, that the *temperature gage is indicating
> 160 degrees*.  It used to go to full left of the range but needle seems
> stuck or something else going on.
>
> Also noticed a few times, that the *Tach was erratic* but the belt was
> not slipping which I heard meant a bad wiring harness connection.  I did
> move all those wires when I painted the interior and resupported the wire
> bundle.
>
> Guess I have to take apart the harness plugs and lube with WD40?
>
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R
>
-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Rotella T5 - 10w30 vs 15w40?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Yes Rotella is good oil. I use in 5W-40 T6 synthetic my diesel truck and it
would be good for your Yanmar but it's expensive.  For sailboat engines
which hardly ever run in freezing temps SAE 30 would be fine. Basically all
lubricating oils nowadays will do. In my Universal M4-30 I used 10w-40 or
15w-40 no special name.

On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 5:05 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My Yanmar 4JH3 calls for 15-40. I think most use this, Rotella.
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 3:51 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Does it matter in any practical sense whether I use 10W-30, which is
>> available, versus 15 W 40, which was available last time I bought a jug…
>> Yanmar 2GM….  Thx.
>>
>> Dave.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Rotella T5 - 10w30 vs 15w40?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

No.

On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 4:51 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Does it matter in any practical sense whether I use 10W-30, which is
> available, versus 15 W 40, which was available last time I bought a jug…
> Yanmar 2GM….  Thx.
>
> Dave.
>
> Sent from my iPhone

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Are you brave enough to drink water from your fresh water tanks or even
cook food with it?  Filter or not it's good for washing dishes and
showering. Quality potable in those tanks; if I was dying of thirst. Maybe.
Take the filter out. Be careful of where you take on water and chlorinate

On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 12:59 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I mostly solved the mystery of my fresh water pump and wanted to update
> the discussion.  I got another identical Jabsco pump from Defender to
> replace the new one that was not shutting off and I was able to test the
> new one without removing the previous new one.  It did exactly the same
> thing which made me convinced the problem was elsewhere.  The hint came
> when I realized that air was getting into the system because the water
> coming out of the tap had frequent air gaps in flow.  I knew the problem
> was in the inflow because the pressure that the pump generated was
> maintained in the outflow system for many days.  I did not think the
> problem was in the tank lines since they were not leaking water.  The
> manifold also seemed fine.  My suspicion then centered on the filter
> between the manifold and the pump.  I pulled that out of the line and the
> pump pressurized and shut off quickly.  I am still not sure where the
> filter housing was leaking air but there is no obvious seal between the
> housing and the base.  Unlike the pump, that filter design has changed
> radically in what came with the new pump, so I suspect I am not the first
> to have problems with it.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Sep 9, 2022, at 2:52 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have had new pump pressure switch failure occur shortly after
> installation.
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
> --
> *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 6, 2022 12:06:47 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Bill Coleman 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?
>
> And not to beat a dead horse, but as I mentioned B4, I had no luck with
> the t;ypical pumps available, and once I went with the Johnson, all my
> problems went away. Maybe they have a better designed check valve.
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 3:07 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Good thoughts.  I can see in my tanks and there is not any significant
> amount of sludge.  I also have a strainer that was already in the line just
> before the pump.  The pump came with one, but I elected to leave the
> existing one in place.  I cleaned the filter and there was not much there.
>   Dave
>
> David Knecht
> Rear Commodore
> Thames Yacht Club
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> On Sep 6, 2022, at 2:21 PM, Matthew via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> If you have that much sludge, you may want to consider an in-line
> strainer.  I have one between my bilgewater intake and my diaphragm bilge
> pump, and I know I’ve saved the pump from a lot of crud.  My strainer is
> simple and looks like the product at the link below, but as I recall it was
> made by a company with a marine presence (like Forespar or Surflow).  Very
> easy to install and clean periodically.
>
> 1/2 Inches Water Pump Strainer, Compatible with 3/8 Inches Hose Barb
> In-Line Strainer Twist-On Pipe Sprayer Filter for Water Pump 12V DC 80 PSI
> RV Camper Marine Boat Lawn (1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
> 
>
> *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 06, 2022 1:52 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Bill Coleman 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?
>
> Maybe you have a lot of sludge in your tank, I often put a hose on the far
> end of my water system and run a couple tanks out into the slip to clean it
> up.
>
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie PA
>
> On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 1:17 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> It looks like the pump version was not the problem.  I will confirm
> tomorrow, but according to Defender, I did indeed purchase the pressure
> limited version of the pump.  I don’t think they even sell the non-pressure
> limited version.  The response I got from Jabsco/Xylem customer support
> said to do this:
>
> The problem with your pump is the Check Valve. What you would need to do
> is too clean it. Take the six screws out they would are Long then Short in
> size; the pump will come part in two pieces the motor and lower 

Stus-List Re: Fiona (was Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts)

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

OK here for us in St. Margaret's Bay communities.  A mess of limbs and
downed trees to clean up but people all good near by. Lost power for a few
hours here and some nearby neighbours still no power.  Many people in NS
still no electricity and some gas stations in Halifax ran out of fuel and
lineups at Tim Hortons pretty long. I have a little Honda 2000i generator
which allowed us to serve coffee and muffins to neighbours morning after
the storm.

On Sun, Sep 25, 2022 at 10:32 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Dwight,
>
> How did you survive the visit from Fiona? I hope you and your close ones
> are ok.
>
> Marek
> Ottawa ON
>
>
> Sent from my Android-based can on a string
>
>
>
> ---- Original message 
> From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> Date: 2022-09-25 17:21 (GMT-05:00)
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: dwight veinot 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>
> I think if you had water ingress and sloved the issue by tightening the
> nuts on your keel bolts then getting good effect from the bedding compound
> used was the problem. Anybody know what bedding compound was used on build.
>
> On Sun, Sep 25, 2022 at 3:32 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I hadn’t thought of that! The keel is slowly getting shorter. If I keep
>> the boat another 50 years I won’t be aground at extra-low tide!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>>
>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>>
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Sunday, September 25, 2022 1:24 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Leeward Rail 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>>
>>
>>
>> The keel bolts are in lead. Lead is soft and eventually they would pull
>> upwards slightly.  I would assume that is why.   I have been planning to
>> contact MARSKEEL and get some pro info.
>>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>
-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I think if you had water ingress and sloved the issue by tightening the
nuts on your keel bolts then getting good effect from the bedding compound
used was the problem. Anybody know what bedding compound was used on build.

On Sun, Sep 25, 2022 at 3:32 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I hadn’t thought of that! The keel is slowly getting shorter. If I keep
> the boat another 50 years I won’t be aground at extra-low tide!
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 25, 2022 1:24 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Leeward Rail 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>
>
>
> The keel bolts are in lead. Lead is soft and eventually they would pull
> upwards slightly.  I would assume that is why.   I have been planning to
> contact MARSKEEL and get some pro info.
>
-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: C 38s

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Good sail boats all. What more to say

On Fri, Sep 23, 2022 at 5:01 PM JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm doing some research on the C 38's and all it's variations
>
> If you own a 38, mk I,II,III,Landfall,Custom,One Ton version could you
> email me off list please
>
> HIN
>
> Where Built.
>
> Yacht's Name if you want to be added to my other database :-)
>
> Photo for bonus points
>
> To sweeten the pot, I'll randomly pick some one who responds for a prize
> out of the chandlery.
>
> Thanks
>
> JohnKelly Cuthbertson
>
> j...@motiondesignslimited.com
>
> www.candcyachts.com
>
>
>
> --
>
-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I did not use any bedding compound.  Just used my angle grinder with 4 inch
disc to grind out between the lead keel and the keel sump. Created a gap
about 1/2 inch wide started from forward and aft about 2 feet or so.
Cleaned up the 2 freshly ground surfaces and washed each well with acetone.
Then painted unthickened West system epoxy on each surface to cure
overnight. Then filled the gap with silica fibrr thickened west system
epoxy putty. Then ground off rough edges and started laying strips of West
system epoxy soaked glass matt to cover both sides. Three layers I think
increasing from 1 to 3 inches wide. After curing faired with polyester car
body filler. Nice job that lasted well for several years before I sold the
boat.

On Tue, Sep 13, 2022 at 6:12 PM james drew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello Dwight,
> Did you use any bedding compound in the smile before you glassed?
> I was planning on doing some tightening this winter and was contemplating
> squeezing 3M 5200 into the smile before tightening and then glassing the
> exterior of the smile.
> Cheers,
> jpdsailor

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

On Tue, Sep 13, 2022 at 12:15 PM dwight veinot  wrote:

> Yea when I torqued the keel bolts on my 35mkII I used a 4 ft extension on
> the drive knowing I could pull about 100 pounds so i figured about 350-400
> lbft of torque. Trickiest part was finding space to get one click on the
> 3/4 inch drive ratchet. I used an extension from the socket down in the
> bilge to the ratchet about 2 feet long to get above the settees and that
> worked to get 1 click with the 4 ft extension on the drive. A wobbly setup
> but I got the job done complete with new bedding and 3/8 inch stainless
> steel backing plates below the nuts. Then I did the famous C smile repair
> from the outside and solved that ugly issue.
>
> On Tue, Sep 13, 2022 at 11:46 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I should have driven down and got it. 350 pounds is a LOT. My arms are
>> still sore!
>>
>> FYI – what you think is really tight with a normal extension is about 150
>> pounds, not 350. I have about 4 feet total to get to 350.
>>
>> If anyone needs to borrow the torque meter let me know.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>>
>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>>
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Josh via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Monday, September 5, 2022 4:18 PM
>> *To:* Stus-List 
>> *Cc:* Josh 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>>
>>
>>
>> You can come borrow my torque multiplier.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6B0IPKQERc
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> Sep 5, 2022 14:09:28 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List > >:
>>
>> Those sizes are correct – thanks!
>>
>> I don’t have a torque wrench that big, so I have them “tight”. I just
>> ordered this thing, so I can set them exactly:
>>
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GLITFW?psc=1=ATVPDKIKX0DER_=chk_typ_imgToDp
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>>
>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>>
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>
>> *From:* Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Sunday, August 28, 2022 10:08 AM
>> *To:* Stus-List 
>> *Cc:* j...@dellabarba.com; Thomas Delaney 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>>
>> Hi Joe,
>>
>> I believe it is 1 1/8" for the front-most nut and 1 1/2" for the rest.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>
-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Yea when I torqued the keel bolts on my 35mkII I used a 4 ft extension on
the drive knowing I could pull about 100 pounds so i figured about 350-400
lbft of torque. Trickiest part was finding space to get one click on the
3/4 inch drive ratchet. I used an extension from the socket down in the
bilge to the ratchet about 2 feet long to get above the settees and that
worked to get 1 click with the 4 ft extension on the drive. A wobbly setup
but I got the job done complete with new bedding and 3/8 inch stainless
steel backing plates below the nuts. Then I did the famous C smile repair
from the outside and solved that ugly issue.

On Tue, Sep 13, 2022 at 11:46 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I should have driven down and got it. 350 pounds is a LOT. My arms are
> still sore!
>
> FYI – what you think is really tight with a normal extension is about 150
> pounds, not 350. I have about 4 feet total to get to 350.
>
> If anyone needs to borrow the torque meter let me know.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Josh via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, September 5, 2022 4:18 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Josh 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>
>
>
> You can come borrow my torque multiplier.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6B0IPKQERc
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> Sep 5, 2022 14:09:28 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List :
>
> Those sizes are correct – thanks!
>
> I don’t have a torque wrench that big, so I have them “tight”. I just
> ordered this thing, so I can set them exactly:
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GLITFW?psc=1=ATVPDKIKX0DER_=chk_typ_imgToDp
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
> *From:* Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 28, 2022 10:08 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* j...@dellabarba.com; Thomas Delaney 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>
> Hi Joe,
>
> I believe it is 1 1/8" for the front-most nut and 1 1/2" for the rest.
>
> Best,
>
> Tom
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Partially furling the genoa when racing

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Furl the genny from 150% to say 130% on the very last bit of the downwind
leg just before the rounding. Put dark tape about 6 inches long vertically
upward from the foot that corresponds to 130% or 110% headsail when furled.
I found there was no real benefit to moving the roller cars to adjust the
sheet lead points.

On Mon, Sep 12, 2022 at 11:12 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was talking to the skipper of a J27 who nearly always wins our PHRF
> class and he was telling me that while he wins a lot, he struggles in
> heavier air.  He said he had recently started partially roller furling his
> large genoa for upwind legs and then unfurling downwind when the wind was
> strong enough to overpower him.  I have never considered doing that and my
> larger genoa does not have “reef points” .  What are the groups thoughts on
> the value/feasibility of this?   Any reason it would be bad for the sail?
> It certainly would be easier than putting on my smaller sail when winds are
> questionable.  I worry about not only sail shape, but when partially
> furled, the furler and genoa sheet are fighting each other, which might not
> be a good thing for the furler.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Is this a C?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

My 1974 35 had cove stripes but no swords or daggers fore and aft.

On Thu, Aug 25, 2022 at 4:48 PM Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That doesn’t always hold true, early 35s didn’t have the cove strip
>
> JKC
>
> www.candcyachts.com
> Motion Designs Limited
> 647 990 7752
>
> On Aug 25, 2022, at 2:37 PM, Doug Robinson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> No cove strip...
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 25, 2022, 2:21 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Sheerline, bow overhang, and keel shape don’t look like a C 30’s.
>>
>> Randy Stafford
>> SV Grenadine
>> C 30 MK I #79
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>>
>> On Aug 24, 2022, at 7:33 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/d/annapolis-cc-30-sloop-sailboat/7522712710.html
>>
>> The boat looks a bit different than I thought the 30s looked like???
>>
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>
>>
>>
>> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Simrad Autopilot Repair

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Don't expect flawless service like that provided from any newer units. They
all have issues. If you can get it fixed: keep it

On Sat, Aug 20, 2022 at 7:41 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Brian,
>
> There's a seller on eBay with two brand new TP32's for sale for $899 and
> free shipping.  I'd definitely condsider that route.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 19, 2022, 9:15 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> All,
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a Simrad TP [tiller pilot] 30 which has started to do hard over
>> “crazy Ivan’s” with increasing frequency, to the point it does it within
>> 3-4 minutes of turning it on.
>>
>>
>>
>> Has anybody had a similar situation and solved it?  At first I would turn
>> it off, let it rest for 10 – 20 minutes and try it again for several hours
>> if not a full day.  That is not cutting it now.  5+ years ago I used it for
>> several double handed races and it did sit in salt water that could not
>> drain out the scuppers fast enough while in Standby mode – was a rough
>> day.  So salt water may have gotten into the electronics.
>>
>>
>>
>> Has anyone used the Simrad repair facilities with any success?Is it
>> worth attempting a repair or am I better off just buying a new unit, the TP
>> 32?  I have had this unit for over 10 years, so can rationalize buying new
>> and not playing with repairing this unit. Especially if I want to use it
>> this season.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Brian
>>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Conduit Size for C 30 Mark 1 ?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

And if you have radar those cables can be quite large o.d. also.

On Fri, Aug 19, 2022 at 10:30 AM Leeward Rail via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Correct.
>
> In this case the LMR400U is 1/2" dia and has connectors already installed
> which are bigger. 2 runs of ultra low loss coax could end up being 1"
> alone.. Then all the other wiring on top of that.
>
> Aug. 19, 2022 8:01:12 a.m. Jeff Nelson via CnC-List  >:
>
> > The larger the conduit the more chance the cables will slap around
> inside it, which will annoy you all night long.
> >
> > --
> > Cheers,
> >Jeff Nelson
> >Muir Caileag
> >C 30 - 549
> >Armdale Y.C.
> >
> > On 2022-08-19 09:32, Leeward Rail via CnC-List wrote:
> >> Vhf coax LMR400UF
> >> Cell booster antenna with coax of some unknown size... Likely some
> other large low loss cable like LMR400
> >> Steaming light
> >> Anchor light
> >> Decklight.
> >>
> >> One day may have wind instruments
> >>
> >> Bigger is easier when fishing wire.
> >>
> >> Why undersize it when it costs virtually the same and takes the same
> effort?
> >>
> >>
> >> Aug. 19, 2022 7:14:47 a.m. Jeff Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>:
> >>
> >>> I do not believe there are any obstructions.  That said 1.5 inches
> seems pretty big for 5 - 7 wires...
> >>> what all you got going on up there?
> >>>
> >>> -- Cheers,
> >>>Jeff Nelson
> >>>Muir Caileag
> >>>C 30 - 549
> >>>Armdale Y.C.
> >>>
> >>> On 2022-08-18 14:17, leewardrail hotmail via CnC-List wrote:
>  Hello All,
> 
>  I am planning to install conduit in the mast of our 30 Mark 1.
> 
>  Unfortunately I am hours away from the boat, and need to buy the
> conduit
> 
>  Would 1.5" PVC Conduit fit ?  Would 1.5" run without obstruction all
> the way to the masthead, or is there something at the spreader that would
> get in the way ?
> 
>  I prefer 1 1/2"   1 1/4" is about the minimum I would want to use.
> 
>  Thanks !
> >
> > --
> > Cheers,
> >Jeff Nelson
> >Muir Caileag
> >C 30 - 549
> >Armdale Y.C.
>
-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Runners/check-stays

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

On my 35 MKII which I just recently sold a mast bend to leeward worked very
well going to weather. In fact the lower leeward shrouds became very slack
and flopped around on a beat. Single spreader rig, forward and aft lower
shrouds and mast like the trunk of a big oak tree set up with about 12
inches of rake upper shroud tension 12-1300, forward lowers 7-800, aft
lowers 5-600 and hydraulic back stay adjuster never more than 2500 but
typically 1000-1500.

On Thu, Aug 18, 2022 at 5:39 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My mast has 3 spreaders like yours but the runner tails were not rigged to
> run to any winches on my XL. Actually the main tail of the entire
> combination (runners/check stays) has a 4:1 purchase and finally exits thru
> a cam cleat on the last block which locks the runners. The runners/checks,
> probably like yours, are rigged so that the highest one is connected to the
> lower one and the lower one has an additional 4 or 6 to 1 purchase with a
> smaller cam cleat so that the shorter lower one can be adjusted separately
> of the longer higher one.
>
> Since my rigging replacement I have not measured the rig but previously
> IIRC my rake was ~ 12 inches which was in the ball park of recommendations
> from the lists.
>
> Since I no longer have a baby stay, I cannot bend my mast much since I
> have nothing to hold or pull the middle of the mast forward--only the
> hydraulic backstay to pull the top aft (and the runners/check stays to
> prevent too much bend). OTOH, the 4:1 purchase is such that the crew pulls
> up to tighten the purchase so they can get the runners/check stays pretty
> tight without going to a winch. In fact when I saw them run to a winch from
> some boat on the list, I was concerned that using a winch, especially if
> there was already a purchase on the line, would be too much and pull the
> attachment bail out of the deck!
>
> Downwind, we usually unclip the single connection of the runner/check stay
> on the deck and let it be loose to avoid interfering with the
> main--although I have used bungee cords at the deck level to pull them
> forward, out of the way.
>
> I probably have to answer my questions with some on the water tests with
> the runners as rigged, unrigged and rigged more forward to keep the mast
> from sagging too far to leeward upwind. Too much sag to leeward has got to
> be slow and/or reduce pointing especially in a breeze. In light air, like
> you I could probably forget about them!
>
> Based on where they were rigged at the factory/dealer yard, their main
> effect is clearly to steady the mast fore and aft. Whether their existence
> was to improve performance/safety/etc. or merely to give a racy look to
> what is a cruising boat is an open question. The reason I suspect this is
> that my non-swept spreaders don't seem consistent to me (or my sail maker)
> with the need for a baby stay--especially a baby stay mounted on a track
> with some purchase and then run to a winch could but a heck of a bend in
> the mast with non-swept spreader---but to what end?
>
>
> Charlie
>
> PS: This issue has become more important as one of my competitors is a
> well sailed J34C rated at 111 vs my 120. We finished tied for 1st place
> last weekend in 12-15 knots with identical 1,1,2,2,2 records. The good news
> is that this was the first time in years that I ever beat him, the bad news
> is that he took the last race and hence the regatta! He can stay with me
> upwind apparently at about the same angle so I need to get everything I can
> out of my boat. Most other competitors cannot point with me so I usually
> get to the weather mark first. OTOH, my LWL is only 30 feet and his is
> closer to 34 so downwind, without a kite, he will overtake me if don't gain
> enough going upwind. Hence my inquiry about the checks.
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> To: Stus-List ; cc-3...@googlegroups.com <
> cc-3...@googlegroups.com>
> Cc: cenel...@aol.com
> Sent: Thu, Aug 18, 2022 1:33 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Runners/check-stays
>
> Hi Charlie,
> Great topics as I'm tweaking my setup as well.  I think it's important to
> try different things and make the boat your own.
>
> My R model has the three spreader Offshore Spar with runners, checkstays,
> single backstay with single hydraulic ram.  Is your mast three spreaders or
> the more common two?
>
> In my racing, we found the runners and checkstays were unnecessary below
> ten knots of wind and most of my races were frustratingly below seven
> knots.  We did have a handful of strong wind races and we reefed down for a
> few starts.  I believe the runners and checkstays straighten the mast when
> the backstay is applied.  They limit the amount of bend and prevent
> inversion.  The previous owner of my boat rigged the runner/checkstays
> closer to the centerline on the transom as many J-35's have done.  He had
> bunji cords pull the slack tails to the backstay at around ten 

Stus-List Re: Runners/check-stays

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Keep them out of your way and if you are on the helm keep them out of your
crews way as much as possible. Cruising/club handicap racing boats should
not have them. Big mistake C design tem

On Thu, Aug 18, 2022 at 1:42 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all;
>
> My C 36 XL/kcb was delivered with the runners/check-stays run to the aft
> rail just about the location of the original headsail winches. They are
> rigged with a 4:1 purchase and are released/tightened depending on what
> tack we are on. Downwind they are unshackled and pulled forward.
>
> I removed the baby stay and its purchase/track to save wear and tear on
> the headsail during tacks so my boat is slightly modified from its factory
> settings. I do have and use a hydraulic backstay adjuster and always race
> with a roller furling headsail.
>
> I just had all the standing rigging replaced after 27 years of mostly PHRF
> racing in the lighter airs of the Pamlico Sound/Neuse River in NC. With a
> PHRF rating of 120 I am usually competitive with the fleet against similar
> sized boats sailed reasonably well--which I manage to do most of the time.
>
> My question for this group, especially those with runners/check-stays
> rigged, is two fold:
>
> 1. Given their aft location on the quarters, the angle they make with the
> mast is mostly aft--I'd guess about 75 degrees from perpendicular to the
> mast, or maybe 165 degrees off the bow. At that angle and purchase, they
> certainly have a minor effect on pulling the mast to weather upwind, which
> I understand is their main purpose (although they may also help prevent
> mast pumping in serious chop). Question #1 is do I really need them as
> currently set-up?
>
> 2. If the answer to question #1 is yes, my next question #2 is should I
> move them forward so they have a better angle keeping the mast to windward
> and perhaps increase their purchase? I know from these groups that some run
> their runners/check-stays to winches to put some serious tension on them at
> the expense of more trimming, etc.
>
> Before I do a sailing test with and without them, thoughts from the lists
> are welcome.
>
> BTW, my mast is a relatively bendy Off-Shore spar--hardly a telephone
> pole--so it can be bent with the hydraulic backstay adjuster.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
>
>
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Is it a diaphragm pump?  If so the diaphragm may be shot

On Wed, Aug 10, 2022 at 10:46 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Try taking it apart and cleaning the vanes. Sometimes they get crud in
> there.
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> On Mon, Aug 8, 2022 at 10:24 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Folks- I found that my fresh water pump was running continuously today
>> and not pressurizing the system and not cutting out when pressurized.  I
>> confirmed there was water in the tanks and flow to the manifold that
>> controls tank choice.  But there was no water in the filter after the
>> manifold and before the pump.  I removed the hose connecting the
>> manifold/filter to the pump and when I sucked on it, I got water, so
>> nothing appears blocked.  When I turned the pump on (Par-Max4), I could not
>> feel any suction on the opening.  I presume these are self-priming pumps,
>> so I should have felt some pull.  The pump is 30 years old, so I am
>> presuming it is just dead, but wondering if there is any other scenario
>> that might make it not work before I replace it.  Thanks- Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium Batteries

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Not on shore power ever although Alianna is equipped for that. Always on a
mooring. I fully charge my batteries individually on the boat every fall
after haul out with an automotive battery charger and then again before
launch in spring. Good batteries will hold most of their charge during
winter storage. Lead acid batteries are just too heavy to remove and
reinstall every year so I simply disconnect from the positive terminals
during winter storage. I have 2 group 27 deep cycle batteries now and no
separate starting battery. I alternate between using  battery 1 or 2 each
time I use my boat, essentially treating them equally as start and house
batteries.


On Sat, Jul 30, 2022 at 8:18 AM DJ via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi Dwight,
> Are you plugged in to shore power?   I usually get about 5 to 7 years out
> of flooded batteries.   I switched to trojan T105s last year.   I wanted to
> go with the firefly batteries but they won't fit.  I did get a pretty
> robust solar system set up at the same time as the new batteries so, I'm
> expecting the batteries will be happier.  I beat the heck out of the last
> one's.  They came with the boat, were not real deep cycle and the boat
> lives in a mooring.  So those only got charged from the engine.  Which
> doesn't really get that much use.  Now, i show up to fully charged
> batteries, and the solar charger on float, every time!  I don't really run
> anything when we're not on the boat.  It would be great to run the fridge
> full time but, I'm not comfortable enough for that yet.
>
> Danny
>
> On Jul 29, 2022 5:03 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Joe. My flooded group 27 lead acid batteries spend their life on my boat,
> usually about 10-15 years. They seem happy enough on my 35 and they meet my
> power needs. They are heavy like you said.
>
> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 3:56 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> That is half the reason I am interested, hauling heavy hunks of lead
> around is tough on the back past a certain age, never mind the effect on
> the boat.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, July 29, 2022 11:54 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium Batteries
>
>
>
> flooded 8D is 160 pounds.  200 aH Lifepo is 40.
>
>
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>
>
>
> On Jul 29, 2022 5:03 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Joe. My flooded group 27 lead acid batteries spend their life on my boat,
> usually about 10-15 years. They seem happy enough on my 35 and they meet my
> power needs. They are heavy like you said.
>
> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 3:56 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> That is half the reason I am interested, hauling heavy hunks of lead
> around is tough on the back past a certain age, never mind the effect on
> the boat.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, July 29, 2022 11:54 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium Batteries
>
>
>
> flooded 8D is 160 pounds.  200 aH Lifepo is 40.
>
>
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>
>
>
> On Jul 29, 2022 5:03 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Joe. My flooded group 27 lead acid batteries spend their life on my boat,
> usually about 10-15 years. They seem happy enough on my 35 and they meet my
> power needs. They are heavy like you said.
>
> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 3:56 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> That is half the reason I am interested, hauling heavy hunks of lead
> around is tough on the back past a certain age, never mind the effect on
> the boat.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, July 29, 2022 11:54 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium Batteries
>
>
>
> flooded 8D is 160 pounds.  200 aH Lifepo is 40.
>
>
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: C 34 Winch replacement

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Barient 28+,  2 speed self tailing work very well on my 35MKII

On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 4:31 PM Stu via CnC-List 
wrote:

> There is a lot of info on winches on the Photo Album site. Scroll down
> left side and click on "Winches".
>
> Stu
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium Batteries

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Joe. My flooded group 27 lead acid batteries spend their life on my boat,
usually about 10-15 years. They seem happy enough on my 35 and they meet my
power needs. They are heavy like you said.

On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 3:56 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That is half the reason I am interested, hauling heavy hunks of lead
> around is tough on the back past a certain age, never mind the effect on
> the boat.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, July 29, 2022 11:54 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium Batteries
>
>
>
> flooded 8D is 160 pounds.  200 aH Lifepo is 40.
>
>
>
-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: C 35 Mainsheet

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I have 7:1 advantage on Alianna's mainsheet with about 1.5 feet of covered
wire between the boom and the moveable block. The triple block at the
traveller is attached to a ratchet block with cam cleat that is snap
shackled to the traveller car on the bridge deck. The wire from block to
boom shortens the total length of main sheet required for dumping power or
sheeting in. I can control the mainsheet from the helm where I prefer a
leeward seat so I can easily see the ticklers on the genoa.

On Fri, Jul 15, 2022 at 10:43 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a 5:1 which I picked up from a parts 35 a few years ago, and it's a
> great improvement. If the cam cleat is hard to release, it usually means I
> should have reefed 5 knots ago...
>
> I use a snap shackle to the traveller car for quickly swinging the boom to
> the rail when at anchor.
>
> Currently looking at a longer range cruiser, and one of the things I will
> miss is easy mainsheet adjustment.
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 15, 2022 at 8:13 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Has anyone changed their 35 to a multi-part tackle and cam cleat that you
>> operate from the traveler back at the helm instead of the stock system that
>> runs a line up to the mast and back to a cabin top winch?
>> Would 4:1 be enough or would 6:1 be better?
>>
>> My preventer is a pretty big 4 part and cam cleat setup, it just about
>> looks like it could do the job.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>>
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Asym Rigging and Trim

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Do you race your 30 single handed or with crew. If with good crew i think
your symetrical kite hoists and take downs would be close to seemless sail
transtions and very fast. I hope changing gear makes the difference you are
looking for but you may still need help from good crew and you may still
need to make some good tactical decisions that turn out lucky decisions.
Gear changes will affect ratings.  Ratings assume equal crew. Your crew
might be more important to success.

On Tue, Jul 12, 2022 at 11:25 AM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I do want to whoop my main competitor!  Or at least compete with him.
> He’s the one who started an arms race in the fleet, by adding a bowsprit,
> asym, and top-down furler two years ago.  That and a furling genoa is now
> the minimum ante in the fleet.  At the windward mark he could furl his
> genoa and unfurl his asym in 30 seconds, while it took me several minutes
> to set the spin pole, hoist the symmetrical, hoist its dousing sock, and
> drop the genoa.  There was no way I could compete.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
>
> On Jul 11, 2022, at 10:07 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Wow, you must really want to whoop your main competitor!
>
> I guess that's what we do - it's just boat bucks!
>
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie PA
>
> On Sun, Jul 10, 2022 at 9:46 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers I am appealing to your collective wisdom on rigging and trimming
>> an asymmetrical spinnaker.
>>
>> For Grenadine’s 50th birthday this year, I added a new furling genoa on a
>> new Selden 204S furler, a retractable Selden 75 bowsprit, and an A2
>> asymmetrical spinnaker on a Selden GX10 top-down furler.  I’m installing
>> the latter two birthday presents on Tuesday.
>>
>> This is all to improve my downwind performance, and facilitate fast
>> upwind / downwind sail plan changes at the marks and on the course, in my
>> club’s races.
>>
>> I guess my specific questions are as follows, but I would appreciate any
>> additional tips you old salts might offer.
>>
>> 1. Leading the tack line - I’m repurposing the foredeck padeye and block,
>> side-deck fairleads, and cabin-side cam cleat for my former pole down line
>> to run the asym tack line, which of course goes through the bowsprit
>> lengthwise.  My pole down line is too short to be the asym tack line, so
>> I’ve repurposed a little-used genoa sheet.  I figure if the deck hardware
>> was sufficient for a symmetrical pole down line, it ought to suffice for an
>> asym tack line.  Am I wrong?
>>
>> 2. Where to put the turning blocks for the asym sheets: same place as for
>> the symmetrical, or farther forward?  For the symmetrical turning blocks I
>> use snatch blocks at the stern pulpit braces.
>>
>> 3. What winch to lead to / where to trim from?  My main competitor leads
>> his asym sheets to cabintop winches, and trims from the windward side deck
>> so the trimmer can see the whole sail.
>>
>> 4. When and how much to ease the tack line?  By default I assume it’s
>> tensioned so that the aysm’s tack is at the bowsprit and the luff is taut,
>> but it can be eased - how much, and under what conditions?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any wisdom you mmight share.
>>
>> Fun fact: the sail is black, with a logo of an M67 grenade on both sides,
>> because of the etymology of my boat’s name, and because of her color scheme
>> (red topsides, white deck and cabintop, black canvas.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Randy Stafford
>> SV Grenadine
>> C 30 MK I #79
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Engine not turning over

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Same thing happened on Alianna a few years back. I have a Universal M4-30.
There was a fuse in line before the starter. I replaced it. Also there is a
spade connection at the starter. Check that connection out. I also replaced
my push button starter but looking back I don't think it was the problem.

On Thu, Jul 7, 2022 at 10:07 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Last night, out of the blue, my engine would not turn over after a race.
> Nothing at all when I push the start button.  I ran the engine before the
> race and all was fine and have had no issues at all this year.
> Fortunately, I was able to sail the short distance to the mooring without a
> problem.  I will be going out to the boat later to try to fix the problem
> and wanted to see if anyone had thoughts on the problem from personal
> experience.
>
> Plenty of power- batteries fully charged.  I tried bridging the two
> batteries just to be sure and still nothing happens.
> Key switch on I can hear the fuel pump ticking over.
>  I measured 12V across the start button poles, which goes to zero when
> pressed and my recollection is that is normal the way it is wired with the
> glow plug button.  I have not yet measured at the starter, as that is a
> real PITA to get to.
>
> Everything had been working fine up until that incident.  The only thing
> that happened during the race, (and I don’t think relevant) is that the
> genoa sheet got wrapped around the engine stop pull knob at one point.  I
> checked and the cable and stop look fine, and the engine should still turn
> over even if it were pulled, is my understanding.  It just should not
> start.
>
> So I am thinking either engine ground wire or starter and plan to clean
> both and try again.  Any thoughts welcome.  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Batteries again

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

For safer storage of lead/acid batteries onboard mine are in leak proof
battery boxes which are held in place with straps attached to solid support

On Tue, May 31, 2022 at 9:48 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Pretty much that. If you don’t mind having wet batteries those are
> probably fine. Having a battery crack open and dump acid in the bilge
> during a hurricane was a stinky situation I do not care to repeat.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* David Knecht via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 31, 2022 6:51 AM
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list 
> *Cc:* David Knecht 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Batteries again
>
>
>
> The battery you indicated appears not to be an AGM.  Flooded batteries in
> general are much cheaper than the AGM.  My battery compartment is not
> easily accessible, so having to maintain the water level in the battery,
>  worries about operating it while healed plus the potential danger of
> spills makes me much happier to spend the extra $$$ for AGM batteries.  One
> less thing to worry about.  Dave
>
>
>
> S/V Aries
>
> 1990 C 34+
>
> New London, CT
>
>
>
>
> On May 30, 2022, at 11:57 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> I have used Dyno batteries without issue.  They cost less than 1/2.  Am I
> missing something?
>
>
>
>
> https://www.fisheriessupply.com/dyno-battery-heavy-duty-m30-marine-batteries/m30hh
>
> Tom Buscaglia
>
> S/V Alera
>
> 1990 C 37+/40
>
> Vashon WA
>
> P 206.463.9200
>
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
>
>
>
> On May 30, 2022, at 9:30 AM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> I highly recommend Lifeline group 31
>
>
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
> --
>
> *From:* Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2022 9:40:31 AM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* j...@dellabarba.com 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Batteries again
>
>
>
> There is a lot of reason to be concerned about off brands. Pretty much all
> cycling batteries of the same size will be about the same AH rating. There
> is no magic in lead batteries, the AH per pound is pretty consistent.  What
> matters **hugely** is the number of cycles that they can endure before
> being trashed. The various cheap Chinese imports are highly variable to say
> the least, their reviews are all over the place. Lifeline is usually
> considered the best AGM maker.
>
> FYI – Deka makes all the West Marine AGMs, you might call around your
> local battery shop and see what they charge. They are worse than Lifelines,
> but if they crap out after a week at least you can return them to the store
>  
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* David Knecht via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2022 11:25 AM
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list 
> *Cc:* David Knecht 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Batteries again
>
>
>
> I have been following the battery discussion and have a question.  I need
> to replace my two 9 year old AGM batteries this season.  I have separate
> start and house batteries which can be combined if needed.  I don’t have
> large power needs (electronics, autopilot and fridge when cruising).  I
> have been reading and researching this and I am unsure of what to
> purchase.  From what I have read, AH is the important number to focus on.
> Last time, I got Lifeline AGM group 27 from Defender.  Defender has 3
> different group 27 batteries
>
> Powertech rated at 92AH  which cost about $330
>
> Lifeline  rated at 100AH for 432
>
> Northstar   rated at 92AH for 457
>
>
>
> From Amazon, I can get a VMAX group 27 with 100AH for $289 or a Universal
> with 110 AH for $239.  Is there any reason to be concerned about less known
> (to me) brands from Amazon or does it make sense to just focus on the
> numbers?  Thanks- Dave
>
>
>
> S/V Aries
>
> 1990 C 34+
>
> New London, CT
>
>
> 
>
>
>
-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing - now sealants in general

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Dennis. Your messages to the list come to me with a yellow warning. I don't
understand why. You been posting good information for many years on the C
list. The warning has appeared on you recent posts.

On Tue, Mar 22, 2022 at 3:51 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Some thoughts on sealants.  Sealants are primarily silicone, polysulfide,
> polyurethane and blends of them.  Add to that butyl rubber.
>
> First, as a rule, I like butyl for any hardware that has the potential to
> flex or move.  Chainplates fit that criteria.
>
> My default sealant for most everything else except plastic is LifeSeal.
> For plastic I generally use silicone.
>
> Here's a reference for where to use sealants:
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/12WmFxRiqzUw2xiqLaEtfBpS1pYocZID-/view?usp=sharing
>
> Note that Life Calk is a polysulfide.  Do not use polysulfide for plastic.
> LifeSeal is a blend of silicone and polyurethane.
> 4200 is polyurethane.  I don't use 4200.  Got too many partially cured
> tubes.  Look at the expiration date before you buy.
>
> 5200 is NOT a sealant.  It's an adhesive.  From the 3M website:
>
> "3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 is a one-component, high-strength,
> moisture-curing, gap-filling polyurethane for permanent bonding of wood,
> gelcoat and fiberglass."  Note the word "permanent"!
>
> A bit off the subject, but Flexpaste seems to fix gouges in rubber rub
> rails fairly well.  Who'd a thunk it?  An "as seen on TV product" that
> actually works on a boat!
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing - now sealants in general

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Butyl tape

On Sun, Apr 17, 2022 at 11:39 AM Matthew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Listers:
>
>
>
> FYI, while trying to determine what caused water infiltration into the
> balsa core above the water line up forward (the last place that hasn’t been
> repaired), a few days ago we identified the fittings securing the forestay
> chainplate as the likely culprit.  Although I’m sure there are more
> accurate names, the two fittings work together to make a stemhead fitting.
> One fitting runs vertically on the uppermost portion of the bow, just below
> the deck, and has the forestay chainplate (looks like a large tang) welded
> on it.  The forestay chainplate/tang comes through a slot cut into the
> deck.  The second fitting is bolted onto the deck and has a slot for the
> chainplate/tang at the forward end and some hardware to connect jib tacks
> at the aft end.
>
>
>
> We believe there are two issues at work that caused water infiltration: 1)
> the lower set of bolts holding the chainplate/tang fitting were drilled
> through the uppermost area of balsa core, thereby providing a pathway to
> the core if not properly sealed (which they were not); and 2) the deck
> fitting that fits around the chainplate/tang was allowing water in
> (probably a lot over the years).  When we removed the deck fitting, we
> discovered that it was originally installed about ¾” aft of where it should
> have been.  This was immediately obvious because the originally drilled
> holes and the aft portion of the slot where the chainplate/tang comes
> through the deck had been re-glassed.  We then realized that the forward
> portion of this fitting had been modified to fit the more forward location
> (the forward rectangular corners had been cut off so the fitting/plate
> would fit).  We also noted that the slot for the chainplate/tang was not
> centered, with the tang pushing against the deck opening on the port side
> while leaving a 3/16” or so gap on the starboard side.  We widened the slot
> on the port side to accommodate sealant.
>
>
>
> We will be putting everything back together when it warms up a few
> degrees.  We are debating what sealant to use for the deck fitting,
> particularly in the slot around the chainplate/tang.  My expert is thinking
> Sikaflex 295.  What say you?
>
>
>
> Matt
>
> C 42 Custom
>
>
>
> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 22, 2022 2:50 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing - now sealants in general
>
>
>
> Some thoughts on sealants.  Sealants are primarily silicone, polysulfide,
> polyurethane and blends of them.  Add to that butyl rubber.
>
>
>
> First, as a rule, I like butyl for any hardware that has the potential to
> flex or move.  Chainplates fit that criteria.
>
>
>
> My default sealant for most everything else except plastic is LifeSeal.
> For plastic I generally use silicone.
>
>
>
> Here's a reference for where to use sealants:
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/12WmFxRiqzUw2xiqLaEtfBpS1pYocZID-/view?usp=sharing
>
>
>
> Note that Life Calk is a polysulfide.  Do not use polysulfide for plastic.
>
> LifeSeal is a blend of silicone and polyurethane.
>
> 4200 is polyurethane.  I don't use 4200.  Got too many partially cured
> tubes.  Look at the expiration date before you buy.
>
>
>
> 5200 is NOT a sealant.  It's an adhesive.  From the 3M website:
>
>
>
> "3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 is a one-component, high-strength,
> moisture-curing, gap-filling polyurethane for permanent bonding of wood,
> gelcoat and fiberglass."  Note the word "permanent"!
>
>
>
> A bit off the subject, but Flexpaste seems to fix gouges in rubber rub
> rails fairly well.  Who'd a thunk it?  An "as seen on TV product" that
> actually works on a boat!
>
> --
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: USCG flares vs electronic devices

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Safety Of Life At Sea. Flares last a lot longer than 4 years. That's why I
keep the old ones. But I got a lot and far as I can tell at Hallowe'en they
all work fine

On Wed, Mar 30, 2022 at 11:36 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The electronic “flares” are a cheap way to be in compliance, but if you
> actually think you might need help they aren’t even remotely close to SOLAS
> flares. The strobes are probably going to be ignored by everyone, 12 gauge
> flares are useless unless you are right next to someone, but SOLAS flares
> light up the sky bright enough to read by!
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Teak Handrail install

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

On my 35-2 handrails are attached same way but the exterior handrails are
1.5 times longer than the interior handrails. I found it to be at least a 2
person job to reattach them with butyl tape bedding and the large 3.5 inch
stainless screws from inside to outside tended to distort the butyl tape so
I ended up punching out holes in the tape so those screws could easily pass
through it to the outside handrails and the job was more difficult due to
the curvature of the longer outside hsndrails.

On Mon, Mar 21, 2022 at 3:00 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Chuck that sounds like a good plan.  I replaced my exterior teak handrails
> five years ago (1972 30 MK I hull #79) and they were fastened almost the
> same way - with long wood screws through the interior handrails and
> cabintop (no nuts involved).  When I reassembled I fastened them the same
> way (with new SS wood screws) and left the interior bungs out.  The
> threaded insert and machine screw from inside approach sounds pretty slick.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> On Mar 19, 2022, at 7:37 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Curious if anyone else tried this?
>
> My cabin top handrails are bolted to a matching set in the cabin ceiling.
> They were throughbolted to each other using long bolts and nuts and the
> holes bunged.  I removed them to fix leaks many years ago and want to
> install them now so I can simply remove the screws from inside and remove
> both for a winter retouch.
>
> They were originally through bolted together, the outside cabintop
> handrails had 3 1/2" long 10-24 screws and the cabin ceiling handrails had
> nuts holding it all together, both fasteners had teak bungs over the
> fasteners.
>
> My plan is to install threaded inserts into the outside handrails and use
> stainless 10-24 screws from the inside ones to hold them together.  My plan
> is to bung the outer handrails and leave out bungs on the inner set, so I
> can remove the the screws from inside, each winter.  I've already overbored
> and redrilled and countersunk the deck holes, and will use butyl tape for
> bedding.  This should provide a way to remove the long screws from inside
> without removing the bungs on the outside handrails.
>
> https://www.mcmaster.com/90016A011/
>
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R Annapolis
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Defender, West, Sea Dog

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Could be good. FortNine has a good rep in the OHV world

On Fri, Feb 18, 2022 at 6:42 PM Peter Fell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Hmm ... I wonder if that will result in a Canadian Defender presence?
>
> On Fri., Feb. 18, 2022, 12:03 p.m. Bill Coleman via CnC-List, <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> All sold! I hate to see these things going to hedge funds and private
>> equity. It’s not the same as dealing with their founders.
>>
>>
>>
>> *FortNine Acquires Defender Industries*
>>
>>- Gary Reich 
>>- 1 hour ago
>>
>> [image: 1_DEFENDER]
>>
>> Canadian powersports company FortNine, which sells equipment through an
>> e-commerce platform, yesterday announced that it acquired Defender
>> Industries in partnership with private equity firm Novacap.
>>
>> “FortNine and Defender share a passion for serving sports enthusiasts. We
>> both have a very loyal customer base who trust our knowledge and experience
>> to outfit them with the equipment they need,” FortNine founder and
>> president Amin Sawaf *said in a statement
>> *.
>> “It is truly a privilege to acquire a company with such a stellar
>> reputation, and we look forward to bringing our unique go-to-market
>> expertise to the marine industry.”
>>
>> Added Defender president Stephan Lance: “The Lance family has been
>> honored to serve our customers since 1938, and in FortNine, we believe that
>> we have found the perfect match in our shared values. We are a marine
>> outfitter staffed by passionate boaters that enable us to deliver on our
>> mission of great customer service. We are proud to unite with FortNine's
>> team of enthusiasts to drive Defender into its next stage of expansion.”
>>
>>
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list
>
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list

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Stus-List Re: Email problem

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Cyber land is the reality around here, the new normal so to speak. Little
kids learn school and play with their friends in cyber land and not so much
on the play ground anymore. It's sad to watch the conversion. I don't think
it's healthy growing up nowadays

On Tue, Feb 15, 2022 at 5:32 PM Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> My email issue to the list has been short but baffling...if this goes
> through, it should be resolved...for now...but who knows exactly what is
> happening out there in cyber land and who is doing whatever is happening
> out there.
>
> Rob Abbott
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2022-02-15 4:23 p.m., Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
> > Interestingly the email below from Joel came to my Outlook email
> (exchange server) as an attachment and to my Gmail account as a message
> without the issue.
> >
> > I am sending this as Text rather than html so should not have the issue.
> >
> > Wonder why Outlook treats html that way from only this email list?
> >
> > Mike Hoyt
> > Halifax NS
> >
> >
> Impress your crew and dock mates with a personalized C galley cutting
> board:
> cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
>
-- 
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Impress your crew and dock mates with a personalized C galley cutting board:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: The board

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I use gmail exclusively for this list. Most emails in Jan ended up in my
gmail spam folder but not all. That stopped on 27 Jan and list emails are
now ending up in my primary gmail folder. I did not check my spam folder
until just lately to discover what was happening and that explained why I
could not follow the gist of some conversations

On Wed, Feb 2, 2022 at 9:24 PM John Read via CnC-List 
wrote:

>
> All messages of late on my cell have messages as normal text.  On my laptop
> the messages are now all as attachments.  Have gmail account and read thru
> Outlook.  Recent issue have not changed any settings
>
> John Read
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2022 3:58 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: ted_reli...@yahoo.com
> Subject: Stus-List The board
>
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: C 121 in a pickle

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

And for me during Jan many emails from this list ended up in my gmail spam
folder for some reason. Didn't notice until just lately. Simply thought the
 list was quiet.

On Wed, Feb 2, 2022 at 12:10 AM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Is it just me or recently, some emails from this list started arriving
> with HTML attachments, instead of the straight text in the body of the
> message?
>
> Marek
> Ottawa ON
>
>
>
> Sent from my Android-based can on a string
>
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
> Date: 2022-02-01 17:32 (GMT-05:00)
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Randy Stafford 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: C 121 in a pickle
>
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Stanchion feet

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Can someone advise please. Is a bow pulpit a legal requirement on our C's
for safety reasons

On Tue, Jan 18, 2022 at 2:13 PM John Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Am in process of repairing bow pulpit after it tried to make friends with
> Mr. Piling.  May need new feet (Klacko type A or C)  Can list advise who
> may have them?
>
> TIA
>
> John Read
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Dodger

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Dodgers look smallish when installed but they get big real fast when you
take them off for winter storage

On Sun, Jan 9, 2022 at 3:20 PM rockland bazemore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the photos Ken! We are actually getting one made later this
> year in Annapolis and have been using yours as an example because we like
> it so much. I was also very concerned about aesthetics as it seemingly
> needs to be very tall to get in the companionway. So glad to hear you are
> happy.
> We'll be cruising for several months down to the Bahamas next winter so
> it's a priority.
> thanks!
>
> Rockland Bazemore
> S/V Blue Pearl
> C 37/40+
> Port Washington, NY
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Dodger

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Genco is good. They can probably make a California dodger for any C
designed boat

On Sat, Jan 8, 2022 at 6:54 PM Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have the Natty Dodger on my 27, much like the one on their picture ( on
> top ) but lower, bought some of their option  ( handhold on the side et
> double rear frame so people feel secure and no greasy hands on the
> Sunbrella. It can fold forward but I leave it up all the time and usually
> remove the center window to get more air when at anchor. I especially like
> it when it rains since I can leave the hatch open.
> Bought it from Genco Marine ( Missisauga, Ont ) and he had most of the
> templates for C , he did ask me for measurements especially since all my
> lines leads to the cockpit, I installed it , took me 2 hours, they supplied
> instructions.
> This was in 2012 and it still looks great ( Navy Blue match my navy blue
> hull )  :-)
>
> Genco Marine Company | Dodgers Biminis Enclosures. Toronto's boat supply
> store and custom work/repair
> 
>
> Genco Marine Company | Dodgers Biminis Enclosures. Toronto's boat supply...
>
> Genco Marine has been a part of Toronto's boating community servicing both
> power and sail enthusiasts for over f...
> 
>
>
>
> Sylvain
> C MkIII
>
>
> On Friday, January 7, 2022, 08:33:24 PM EST, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Any recommendations / specs for a dodger for a C 37+?
>
> Thanks,
> Rob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Dodger

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Dodgers get in the way of lines lead to the cockpit and interfere with
vision ahead. If you're racing you probably want something you can remove
easily not just fold down on the deck. If not racing a full dodger can work
well with lines lead aft. Opening panels help a lot and fold down is a big
bonus.  I did not suggest what I have I suggested what looked like would
work good for me on a 35MKII. There are days I wish I had more opening
panels. I don't have a bimini, but sometimes I wish I had gone for a bimini
dodger matched combo when I fitted my present dodger. It is worth having
for sure and the tubing and canvas is now 17 years old and looks almost
like new. Usually only on the boat from June to mid September.

On Sat, Jan 8, 2022 at 10:33 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am interested in this as well, though I want to be cautious.  A friend
> had a dodger on a Tartan 42 with a similar entrance down below.  The
> combination of the stainless steel bar and fabric made for a difficult
> crawl down below.  Instead, I would want a zip-open flap the width of the
> entranceway, and no bar (or at least a swing away bar) to have unimpeded
> access to the cabin.  Not to mention crawling around it and the bimini when
> getting on & off the boat.  For that reason alone, I'd like it to easily
> fold forward and out of the way.  That way I could cover it when its not
> needed and preserve it getting from UV damage.
>
> Then there's the asthetics.  I know, screw the asthetics when you're
> getting cold and wet,  but it's still a consideration.
>
> Anyone have a solution that addresses all these concerns?
>
> Ours lives on a dock in Florida,  and we do far more daysailing than
> cruising, though I'd love to be cruising more.
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Dodger

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Check out California dodger

On Fri, Jan 7, 2022 at 9:33 PM Rob Hamlin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Any recommendations / specs for a dodger for a C 37+?
>
> Thanks,
> Rob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge Water

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I drain my potable water tanks and lines for winter storage. Everything
else like heat exchanger, the head and the auto bilge pump gets 50/50
automotive antifreeze like prestone. Never a problem.

On Fri, Jan 7, 2022 at 11:50 AM John Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A quick internet search indicates caution using windshield washer fluid in
> potable water lines.  Most fluids use methanol also known as methyl / wood
> alcohol  to prevent the freezing.  Methanol is highly poisonous and can
> cause blindness.  It may be ingested through air, skin or mouth.  May also
> be corrosive
>
>
>
> The water system antifreeze are usually based on propylene glycol which is
> considered generally safe unless ingested in large quantities.  Propylene
> glycol rarely causes toxic effects, and then only under very unusual
> circumstances. Propylene glycol is a *Generally Recognized as Safe* (GRAS)
> food additive that is widely used in cosmetics. In certain medicines,
> cosmetics, and food products, propylene glycol acts as solvent.
>
>
>
> In both cases, thorough rinsing of the potable system is recommended
>
>
>
> John Read
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Friday, January 07, 2022 9:39 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Robert Abbott
> *Subject:* Stus-List Bilge Water
>
>
>
> My mast is usually out during the winter...left it in this year for
> reasons...I use a cheap -35C windshield washer in the bilge to prevent any
> water from freezing before I get to the boat to pump it out. Mast in or
> mast out, I don't use either the manual or electric pump(s) in the
> winterboth lines and pumps are primed with the same -35C rated
> windshield washer to prevent any chance of freezing causing trouble.  Has
> worked well for the past 16 winters.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax,N.S.
>
> On 2022-01-07 1:33 a.m., Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Water leaks in on a warmer day and then freezes before I can get to it and
> pump it out.  No auto pump.  Cheap anti-freeze works well 'til I visit the
> boat again.
>
> Ron
>
> Wild Cheri
>
> C 30-1
>
> STL
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, January 6, 2022, 11:11:53 PM CST, andrew macLean
>   wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> Ron, Why are you putting anti-freeze in the bilge?
>
>
>
> Andrew
>
> C 30-1
>
> Gulf Islands, BC
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rudder issues

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Drill a few more drain holes top middle bottom and let it drain and dry out
inside. When dry fill holes with thickened epoxy fair and barrier coat. Pay
careful attention to cleaning out the gap around the rudder post. Dental
tools work good for that. Let it dry and reseal with thickened epoxy.
Tapping with a small hammer may give you an idea where water is trapped. A
dull thud might mean water.

On Wed, Jan 5, 2022 at 9:45 AM Brian Davis via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good morning everyone! Happy New Year!
>
> I've spent the last 2 weeks totally sanding Nina's bottom down to the gel
> coat in prep for a new paint job using The Black Widow from Pettit.
>
> I came across some issues with the rudder yesterday and was wondering if
> any of you have fixed similar.   After sand it down too, I could tell there
> was some glass and bondo work done on the trailing edge. I Dremeled out the
> spots and have a great marine epoxy to fill since they aren't deep.
>
> However, there was water dripping from a hole or shaft of sorts on the
> underside near the leading edge about a few inches back. I inserted a dowel
> stick about 5" up and it seems solid. So drilled a hole where a previous
> hole was on the bottom face of the starboard side. About 3oz of water came
> out. The yard lead tech suggest I pull the rudder and send to FossFoam near
> Gainesville FL to rebuild it. They quoted $2,000 and said that they were
> probably the original manufacturer.
>
> Would love to hear your thoughts and experiences.  Here is a link to some
> pics.
>
> Regards,
> Brian
> 1980 Landfall 38SL
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1kFXgarL4apwcKsr6cjQxp41_qsU12Kcw
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I think you said it was not leaking water from the outside into the bilge.
If that's the case then the seal is still OK. I think if you do the repair
you will be good to go. If you sell and move on to something different the
new owner will have to fix it anyway and that will likely reduce
considerably what you get for the boat  and it may not interest a buyer as
is. The fix doesn't look too complicated from what i can see in the photos.

On Mon, Jan 3, 2022 at 6:16 PM Stephen Kidd via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> These responses are super helpful! Four years in, we remain novices,
> which makes it hard to even know the questions to ask. No matter the
> approach we take, it is clear that replacing the washers and adding backing
> plates is part of the project. I was a little perplexed by the aft keel
> bolt washers and unsuccessfully poked around the internet for a while
> trying to figure out if that was normal or something done by a previous
> owner.
>
> We did have a soft grounding in mud on the side of a channel while
> motoring back to our marina this fall (in full view of everyone, including
> incoming flights to DCA, of course). We were going pretty slow and ended up
> drifting/sliding off, but physics is tricky, so I have no idea what was
> going on down there. About a week later we had the boat hauled and
> transported by trailer to her new home about an hour away. Maybe that
> loosened things up? Luckily we now have better access to boatyards. We've
> had folk from two take a look at the keel while the boat was in slings (our
> new marina and another boatyard), but have not had a formal survey. While
> we got an estimate for the keel-drop/re-bedding, both suggested that the
> tightening/filling route is an option. There is also the "another boat"
> option to consider. It is greener, and just on the other side of the fence.
>
> So, my new question is, if we do have keel bolt degradation, bolt hole
> elongation (not entirely sure what this is, but it sounds dire), or
> structural damage to the sump, would we still expect wiggle after
> tightening? In other words, if we tighten the keel bolts and wiggle ceases,
> has the problem most likely been resolved?
>
> Thank you for the insights!
>
>
>>
>> *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Monday, January 03, 2022 12:35 PM
>> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
>> *Cc:* Bill Coleman 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?
>>
>>
>>
>> I have to agree with Dwight on the backing plates, ESPECIALLY the aft
>> most one, I think. It looks like they cut the edges off the stack of
>> washers, so the nut would fit in that tight space with a socket. I can see
>> where the washers rotated with the tightening, and are chewing into the
>> fiberglass big time. Maybe a 3/8” plate that just fits into that space,
>> then either a short piece of heavywall SS Pipe as a spacer and then a
>> couple washers, or take that stack of washers and orient them correctly,
>> and compress them with a bolt onto the backing plate, and have a welder
>> fuse them together with a TIG without getting it too hot. Just enough to
>> keep them from rotating. Then put in back in and tighten it up to specs.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> Entrada, Erie, PA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 2, 2022 at 3:32 PM Stephen Kidd via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
> Happy New Year! We're hoping to get some insights on an issue we are
>> having with our keel. We recently had our 25 MKII hauled for some winter
>> projects and were surprised to see that the keel "wiggled" when the boat
>> was on the travel lift, a little bit laterally.
>>
>>
>>
>> I've uploaded some photos of the keel and the keel bolts
>> . Here are some
>> observations:
>>
>> 1) No signs of weeping from the keel joint and no visible separation when
>> lifted from the stands.
>>
>> 2) None of the keel bolts (3 in total) leak.
>>
>> 3) Crack at the aft end doesn't look typical of the C smile based on
>> internet searches.
>>
>>
>>
>> Should we torque the keel bolts, grind out the crack, fill (G-flex?),
>> fair, and paint, or is this beyond a "smile" fix?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Stephen
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

You can fix that. Yes grind it out and clean surfaces well with acetone
soaked rags. Use a brush and apply West system epoxy to cleaned surfaces.
The fill the gap(s) with silica thickened epoxy putty.  Then a couple of
layers of epoxy soaked glass matte. Grind to shaped and fair with polyester
resin like lightweight car body filler. Torque keel bolts to spec before
the crack repair and replace the washers with larger 3/8 inch stainless
steel backing plates.

On Sun, Jan 2, 2022 at 3:32 PM Stephen Kidd via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Happy New Year! We're hoping to get some insights on an issue we are
> having with our keel. We recently had our 25 MKII hauled for some winter
> projects and were surprised to see that the keel "wiggled" when the boat
> was on the travel lift, a little bit laterally.
>
> I've uploaded some photos of the keel and the keel bolts
> . Here are some observations:
> 1) No signs of weeping from the keel joint and no visible separation when
> lifted from the stands.
> 2) None of the keel bolts (3 in total) leak.
> 3) Crack at the aft end doesn't look typical of the C smile based on
> internet searches.
>
> Should we torque the keel bolts, grind out the crack, fill (G-flex?),
> fair, and paint, or is this beyond a "smile" fix?
>
> Thanks!
> Stephen
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I would say none is closer to normal. I have a 1974 C 35. Never saw its
keel wiggle lifted out of the water in fall and put back in the water every
spring.

On Mon, Jan 3, 2022 at 9:13 AM Julian Norris via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I also noticed that the keel on my 30 MKII wiggled alarming during lift
> out this year. Our club lifts as a group with a crane with very long
> straps. It was very windy so the straps were vibrating in the breeze
> (gale?) which transferred to the hull and caused the keel to wiggle. In my
> case I believe the fibreglass keel stub was flexing, not the joint at the
> keel bolts. After being alarmed by this on my boat I paid closer attention
> to the subsequent boats coming out and observed that some of those wiggled
> too but not to the same degree as mine. I have inspected the structure
> around the bilge to the extent that it’s visible and don’t see any issues.
> I’m very interested in hearing opinions from this list about how much keel
> movement is normal.
>
> Julian Norris
> C 30-2
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 2, 2022, at 3:32 PM, Stephen Kidd via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Happy New Year! We're hoping to get some insights on an issue we are
> having with our keel. We recently had our 25 MKII hauled for some winter
> projects and were surprised to see that the keel "wiggled" when the boat
> was on the travel lift, a little bit laterally.
>
> I've uploaded some photos of the keel and the keel bolts
> . Here are some observations:
> 1) No signs of weeping from the keel joint and no visible separation when
> lifted from the stands.
> 2) None of the keel bolts (3 in total) leak.
> 3) Crack at the aft end doesn't look typical of the C smile based on
> internet searches.
>
> Should we torque the keel bolts, grind out the crack, fill (G-flex?),
> fair, and paint, or is this beyond a "smile" fix?
>
> Thanks!
> Stephen
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I did not realize that my radar would help them to see me. It helps me to
see objects in my path though when fog is thick. I also have a radar
reflector that I hoist on the flag halyard. That I hope may help others to
see me a bit easier in the fog. Sometimes I have had my electronic gear
fail me when I needed it most. I carry a handheld Garmin gps with blue
charts installed in case my Raymarine chart plotter fails, which it has

On Sat, Jan 1, 2022 at 5:43 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Dwight
>
>
>
> We do not have radar so everything we have to make them see us helps
>
>
>
> Happy 2022
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> *From:* dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* December 31, 2021 4:46 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* dwight veinot 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections
>
>
>
> I see. I have all the Raymarine gear displayed on instruments in a pod
> above the companion way. Speed, depth, wiind speed and angle true and
> apparrent and also a graphic display that gives me digital apparent wind
> angle and windspeed readout or any othe combination of up to 4 parsmeters
> display. I pay careful attention to apparent wind angle and speed thru the
> water when trimming for performance short legs and vmg for longer hauls. I
> hope those big ships are watching for you but happy at least that you can
> see them. I rely on my old Furuno radar display in the cabin but visible
> from the wheel when unexpectedly caught in fog. I do very little after dark
> sailing. Sometimes it’s a nightmare just keeping the simple instruments i
> have working. More wire more connections more possible failure spots.
>
>
>
> On Fri, Dec 31, 2021 at 4:26 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Dwight
>
>
>
> Short answer is NO – not always.
>
>
>
> Better answer is that I want other vessels to see me when doing coastal
> trips at night and in the fog. We already receive AIS so I see the big
> tankers that will plow us under doing 14 knots and I want them to see us
> before that happens.
>
>
>
> The rest of the gear?  I like knowing Speed over Water especially when
> racing.  I like not hitting bottom so depth can also be important.  Smart
> people know the wind speed and direction but for the rest of us having it
> displayed is nice.
>
>
>
> For the setup it turns out that Raymarine has a SeatalkNG to Nema 2000
> spur connector and you can plug in directly to SeatalkNG backbone.
>
>
>
> This does give me a reason to climb up the ladder in the winter to run my
> newly installed diesel heater and tinker with the boat though ..
>
>
>
> All the best
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> *From:* dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* December 31, 2021 3:32 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* dwight veinot 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections
>
>
>
> Mike. Do you really need all that gear to sail your boat well or are you
> just interested in the challenge of seeing if you can make it all work, at
> least long enough for proof test. Hahaha Happy New Year
>
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 30, 2021 at 11:21 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks Dave
>
>
>
> Sounds like I need a A06045/A06075 SeatalkNG to Nema 2000 cable and plug
> right into Seatalk NG backbone.  That is pretty simple
>
>
>
> Now I just have to climb back into the cold dark boat to see what backbone
> currently looks like so I will know which of and how many of the other $49
> each Seatalk NG bits and pieces I will need to add
>
>
>
> *From:* Dave S via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* December 30, 2021 11:10 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Dave S 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections
>
>
>
> Yes, you can buy an adaptor or make one with a field attachable
> connector.  Seatalk NG is or rather was Raymarine's attempt to make the
> NMEA 2000 standard effectively proprietary.   I have a Seatalk NG backbone
> and a range of NMEA2000 devices - it works seamlessly.
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, 30 Dec 2021 at 09:17, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Likely a question for Fred Street
>
>
>
> Currently Persistence has Raymarine i50/i60 Speed/Depth/Wind and Raymarine
> a65 multifunction display/chartplotter connected via Seatalk NG network
>
>
>
> Have just acquired Em-trak B923 AIS transponder with built in antenna
> splitter.  Wish to also connect B923 to a65.  B923 has Nema -0183 and
> Nema2000 connections. A65 has SeatalkNG and Nema2000 ports.
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I see. I have all the Raymarine gear displayed on instruments in a pod
above the companion way. Speed, depth, wiind speed and angle true and
apparrent and also a graphic display that gives me digital apparent wind
angle and windspeed readout or any othe combination of up to 4 parsmeters
display. I pay careful attention to apparent wind angle and speed thru the
water when trimming for performance short legs and vmg for longer hauls. I
hope those big ships are watching for you but happy at least that you can
see them. I rely on my old Furuno radar display in the cabin but visible
from the wheel when unexpectedly caught in fog. I do very little after dark
sailing. Sometimes it’s a nightmare just keeping the simple instruments i
have working. More wire more connections more possible failure spots.

On Fri, Dec 31, 2021 at 4:26 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dwight
>
>
>
> Short answer is NO – not always.
>
>
>
> Better answer is that I want other vessels to see me when doing coastal
> trips at night and in the fog. We already receive AIS so I see the big
> tankers that will plow us under doing 14 knots and I want them to see us
> before that happens.
>
>
>
> The rest of the gear?  I like knowing Speed over Water especially when
> racing.  I like not hitting bottom so depth can also be important.  Smart
> people know the wind speed and direction but for the rest of us having it
> displayed is nice.
>
>
>
> For the setup it turns out that Raymarine has a SeatalkNG to Nema 2000
> spur connector and you can plug in directly to SeatalkNG backbone.
>
>
>
> This does give me a reason to climb up the ladder in the winter to run my
> newly installed diesel heater and tinker with the boat though ..
>
>
>
> All the best
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> *From:* dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* December 31, 2021 3:32 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* dwight veinot 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections
>
>
>
> Mike. Do you really need all that gear to sail your boat well or are you
> just interested in the challenge of seeing if you can make it all work, at
> least long enough for proof test. Hahaha Happy New Year
>
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 30, 2021 at 11:21 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks Dave
>
>
>
> Sounds like I need a A06045/A06075 SeatalkNG to Nema 2000 cable and plug
> right into Seatalk NG backbone.  That is pretty simple
>
>
>
> Now I just have to climb back into the cold dark boat to see what backbone
> currently looks like so I will know which of and how many of the other $49
> each Seatalk NG bits and pieces I will need to add
>
>
>
> *From:* Dave S via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* December 30, 2021 11:10 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Dave S 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections
>
>
>
> Yes, you can buy an adaptor or make one with a field attachable
> connector.  Seatalk NG is or rather was Raymarine's attempt to make the
> NMEA 2000 standard effectively proprietary.   I have a Seatalk NG backbone
> and a range of NMEA2000 devices - it works seamlessly.
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, 30 Dec 2021 at 09:17, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Likely a question for Fred Street
>
>
>
> Currently Persistence has Raymarine i50/i60 Speed/Depth/Wind and Raymarine
> a65 multifunction display/chartplotter connected via Seatalk NG network
>
>
>
> Have just acquired Em-trak B923 AIS transponder with built in antenna
> splitter.  Wish to also connect B923 to a65.  B923 has Nema -0183 and
> Nema2000 connections. A65 has SeatalkNG and Nema2000 ports.
>
>
>
> A65 currently using SeatalkNG port to communicate with i50/i60
> instruments. Nema2000 port unused.  Power connector has only three prongs
> so do not believe this model has the Nema 0183 wiring
>
>
>
> How do I most easily (and cost effectively) connect the B923 to the a65 so
> that I can see AIS targets?
>
>
>
> Can I simply purchase a SeatalkNG to Nema2000 cable and plug B923 into
> SeatalkNG backbone?
> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|344|2028705|2028879=1108756#
> <https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C344%7C2028705%7C2028879=1108756>
>
> That seems too simple a solution and too good to be true.
>
>
>
> Alternatively do I need to set up a Nema 2000 backbone in addition to (and
> separately from) the existing SeatalkNG backbone and then connect to the
> Nema 2000 ports on the a65 and the B923?  Will this cause issues since the
> a65 is also connected using SeatalkNG port 

Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Mike. Do you really need all that gear to sail your boat well or are you
just interested in the challenge of seeing if you can make it all work, at
least long enough for proof test. Hahaha Happy New Year

On Thu, Dec 30, 2021 at 11:21 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Dave
>
>
>
> Sounds like I need a A06045/A06075 SeatalkNG to Nema 2000 cable and plug
> right into Seatalk NG backbone.  That is pretty simple
>
>
>
> Now I just have to climb back into the cold dark boat to see what backbone
> currently looks like so I will know which of and how many of the other $49
> each Seatalk NG bits and pieces I will need to add
>
>
>
> *From:* Dave S via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* December 30, 2021 11:10 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Dave S 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Seatalk NG / Nema 2000 device connections
>
>
>
> Yes, you can buy an adaptor or make one with a field attachable
> connector.  Seatalk NG is or rather was Raymarine's attempt to make the
> NMEA 2000 standard effectively proprietary.   I have a Seatalk NG backbone
> and a range of NMEA2000 devices - it works seamlessly.
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, 30 Dec 2021 at 09:17, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Likely a question for Fred Street
>
>
>
> Currently Persistence has Raymarine i50/i60 Speed/Depth/Wind and Raymarine
> a65 multifunction display/chartplotter connected via Seatalk NG network
>
>
>
> Have just acquired Em-trak B923 AIS transponder with built in antenna
> splitter.  Wish to also connect B923 to a65.  B923 has Nema -0183 and
> Nema2000 connections. A65 has SeatalkNG and Nema2000 ports.
>
>
>
> A65 currently using SeatalkNG port to communicate with i50/i60
> instruments. Nema2000 port unused.  Power connector has only three prongs
> so do not believe this model has the Nema 0183 wiring
>
>
>
> How do I most easily (and cost effectively) connect the B923 to the a65 so
> that I can see AIS targets?
>
>
>
> Can I simply purchase a SeatalkNG to Nema2000 cable and plug B923 into
> SeatalkNG backbone?
> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|344|2028705|2028879=1108756#
> 
>
> That seems too simple a solution and too good to be true.
>
>
>
> Alternatively do I need to set up a Nema 2000 backbone in addition to (and
> separately from) the existing SeatalkNG backbone and then connect to the
> Nema 2000 ports on the a65 and the B923?  Will this cause issues since the
> a65 is also connected using SeatalkNG port to the Seatalk backbone?
>
>
>
> This seems very complicated compared to the older Nema 0183 connectivity.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> www.hoytsailing.com
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 37/40R for sale

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

That is a really nice boat. I like the custom stuff and especially that
keel. I hope it sails as good as it looks.

On Wed, Dec 8, 2021 at 3:03 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That is a very unique C 37R.  It was the 14th 37R built, called Wave
> Trane, and it had quite a number of factory modifications to make it
> stronger and stiffer than the usual C 37R.  As an example, all
> bulkheads were tabbed to the deck from below, not usual for the 37R.  There
> are a set of drawings at the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston,
> just for that boat.
>
> It also has a weird looking one off custom keel designed by Britton Chance
> Jr., designer of America’s Cup Boats among other things, which explains why
> there are so many keel bolts.  Some info here:
> http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/boat-design-c-37r-designer-robert-ball.html
>
> Some of the links there, to download the drawings, aren't working just
> now, Google changed something.  I'll see if I can get that linking cleared
> up this evening.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>
> On Tue, 7 Dec 2021 at 23:07, Ian Matthew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> A friend of mine who sails with me on my C 29-1 has seen this boat and
>> may be interested.  Anyone got any comments to make that would be helpful
>> to him.
>>
>> He's here in San Francisco and the boat is in BC so that's one problem
>>
>> 1989 C 40R Plus 37R Racer/Cruiser for sale - YachtWorld
>> 
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Ian Matthew
>> "Siento el Viento"  C 29-1
>> San Francisco Bay
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 121 in a pickle

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Bad as it sounds everybody stayed above the water. Right. That is what a
boat is for in simplest terms

On Fri, Dec 3, 2021 at 6:30 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Here’s an overdue report on this situation.  Basically a tale of warning
> about what can go wrong offshore, with potentially very serious
> consequences.
>
> By coincidence a few weeks ago I came into contact on Facebook with one of
> Calypso’s crew, a retired pediatrician.  We subsequently spoke on the
> phone, and she documented her experience on her Facebook timeline, which
> I’ll quote below.
>
> Calypso’s owner and captain is a 75-year old man who’d never been
> offshore.  He found passage crew on findacrew.net, and they too had never
> been offshore (and in two cases had little sailing experience).
>
> The boat experienced a sequence of cascading problems on the passage,
> which put it and its crew in a very serious situation: no electricity, no
> engine, low fresh water, and broken forestay many hundreds of miles
> offshore.  The sequence started with problems furling an asym on a top-down
> furler.  That somehow caused problems with the genoa furler too: the genoa
> wouldn’t furl all the way in or out.  That in turn contributed to the
> forestay snapping when the wind picked up.  When that happened, the crew
> lashed the genoa down the length of the side deck, and fouled the prop with
> sheets or lashing lines.  The prop was fouled hard enough, in forward gear,
> that it wasn’t possible to shift to neutral.  So they couldn’t run the
> engine.  So they got down to 4% battery.  They had to shut off all
> electrical loads including radio, radar, GPS/AIS, lights, watermaker, and
> refrigerator.  They had to drift for two days waiting for seas to calm
> enough to dive the prop.  They lost refrigerated food and got down to 11%
> fresh water (with apparently no bottled water aboard).
>
> If they had not been able to get off distress calls on their electronics
> and satellite phone before shutting down, they would have been in serious
> trouble.  Fortunately two other boats received notifications of Calypso’s
> distress and came to assist, accompanying the disabled boat for many days.
> They lent water and fuel, support and advice.  One of those boats was a
> Leopard 40 named Nobody’s Home in the Salty Dogs rally to Antigua, whose
> delivery captain was a man named Vinny, who is a friend of the delivery
> captain Scott of the boat I was on (a Fountaine Pajot Saona 47 named Quite
> The Catch).  We first heard about this whole situation when Vinny texted
> Scott via satphone.
>
> Calypso departed from Hampton, VA on Saturday October 30th (day 1 for
> them) as part of the Salty Dogs rally.  My boat departed Newport, RI on
> Monday November 1st, bound for the USVI (not part of the rally).  Calypso's
> forestay snapped on their day 7 or 8: Saturday November 7th or Sunday
> November 8th.  By that time there was a strong storm happening between the
> east coast and Bermuda, which would slam New England several days later as
> a nor’easter packing hurricane-strength winds. By Friday November 6th Chris
> Parker was advising all boats in the vicinity to get as far south and east
> as possible, as quickly as possible.  At that time, Quite The Catch was
> approaching Bermuda, and we were seeing forecasts of >50kts on PredictWind
> southwest of our position over the next couple days.  So we diverted SE two
> days and 400nm out of our way to avoid that weather.  Calypso probably
> sailed right through it, but the max wind strength they saw (at least,
> while they had instrumentation) was 37 knots.
>
> Calypso was able to compensate for the broken forestay using halyards to
> the bow stem.  They got her prop unfouled and engine started and batteries
> charged.  Then she was able to limp along under reefed main.  Unbelievably,
> despite all that and a subsequently broken autopilot, her captain wanted to
> continue to Antigua and was requesting fuel!  On the evening of Thursday
> November 11th, as navigator on Quite The Catch, I plotted an intercept
> course to backtrack eight hours to Calypso and give her fuel, but we
> decided not to do it.
>
> When Calyspo got far enough south to hit the easterly trade winds, her
> captain wanted to start tacking upwind to Antigua, starting with a NE leg.
> At that point her crew mutinied, and forced the captain to turn towards the
> USVI.  She arrived in St. Thomas on November 15th after 16 days at sea from
> Hampton, VA.  By contrast my boat arrived on November 12th after 12 days at
> sea from Newport, RI (two of which were extra days for weather routing).
>
> Learn what you will from this saga.  Now I will paste the crew member’s
> Facebook postings, in the order in which she posted them.
>
> "Wow! Where to start?? We just spent 16 days at sea and ended up in the US
> Virgin Islands instead of Antigua. Lots of stuff on the boat broke and
> because of it we couldn’t sail east 

Stus-List Re: Burnished bottom paint

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

So a deleterious effect despite the increased WLL
On Wed, Dec 1, 2021 at 5:25 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Found this in Sailing Anarchy –
>
> Back to the drawing board.
>
> Bulbous bows are designed to "cancel" out the hull's bow wave by inducing
> their own wave set that has the same frequency, but opposite phase, thereby
> reducing wave making resistance.
>
>
>
> To make this work, the boat's speed has be within a very tight specified
> range and the amplitude of the pitching moment has be  relatively small to
> keep the bulb at the proper depth.
>
>
>
> Neither of these conditions can be met on a small-ish hull form. The
> additional wetted surface and form drag eats you up.
>
>
>
> Was tried in the 70's on 6 Meters and flopped horribly.
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* dwight veinot via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 01, 2021 4:14 PM
> *To:* Stus-List
> *Cc:* dwight veinot
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Burnished bottom paint
>
>
>
> Would a bulbous bow below the waterline help
>
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 30, 2021 at 9:31 PM schiller via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> No, but we did add "turbulators" to the tail section of the GBU-24 Bunker
> Buster Guided Bomb to break up the boundary layer between the bomb body and
> the wing section, causing turbulent flow over the wings.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C #5-3, #028, "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
>
> On 11/30/2021 6:05 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Indeed.  You don't see dimples on the wings of aircraft, for a good
> reason...
>
> Graham Collins
>
> CS 36T
>
> On 2021-11-30 3:50 p.m., Dreuge via CnC-List wrote:
>
>
>
> On Nov 30, 2021, at 1:47 PM, Doug via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
>
> This is the reason golf balls have dimples. Aides in better flight, less
> resistance.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yes (if spinning) and No (as it adds lateral resistance).
>
>
>
> Going with a smooth surface is the overall best approach as it promotes
> smooth laminar flow.   There are times when a ruff surface helps maintain
> laminar flow.  For example, the dimples on a golf ball create a thin
> turbulent layer which drags air and helps keep the lamina flow closer to
> the surface behind the ball.  The dimples add resistance to the flow but
> reduces the air wake behind the ball which reduces the overall drag force.
> The laminar flow around a smooth ball does not wrap around the back of the
> ball as well and leaves a larger wake.  The larger the wake, the larger the
> drag.
>
>
>
> I think it would be foolish to add dimples or an orange peel bottom,
> unless you have the resources to model and measure the effect for a
> particular boat.  Maybe adding some aft ruffness as the hull as turns
> inward, but this will strongly depend on the individual hull shape and
> likely have a positive effect at high water speeds (and a negative effect
> at low).   Of course, a great way to reduce one's wake is to foil.
>
>
>
> Most may recall that dimples of a spinning golf ball help in another and
> bigger way by providing lift(i.e. aids in better flight).  The spinning
> dimples drag air towards incoming flow and drag air away from the flow on
> the opposite side causing a high/low pressure difference (i.e.  lateral
> lift force).   This latter effect has not yet been exploited by sailors.
> Who knows, maybe we’ll see a spinning belted keel in the future driven by
> Kiwi’s pedal power.
>
>
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
>
> 1981 C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
>
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> --
>
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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Stus-List Re: Burnished bottom paint

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Would a bulbous bow below the waterline help

On Tue, Nov 30, 2021 at 9:31 PM schiller via CnC-List 
wrote:

> No, but we did add "turbulators" to the tail section of the GBU-24 Bunker
> Buster Guided Bomb to break up the boundary layer between the bomb body and
> the wing section, causing turbulent flow over the wings.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C #5-3, #028, "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
>
> On 11/30/2021 6:05 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Indeed.  You don't see dimples on the wings of aircraft, for a good
> reason...
>
> Graham Collins
> CS 36T
>
> On 2021-11-30 3:50 p.m., Dreuge via CnC-List wrote:
>
>
> On Nov 30, 2021, at 1:47 PM, Doug via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> This is the reason golf balls have dimples. Aides in better flight, less
> resistance.
>
>
>
>
> Yes (if spinning) and No (as it adds lateral resistance).
>
> Going with a smooth surface is the overall best approach as it promotes
> smooth laminar flow.   There are times when a ruff surface helps maintain
> laminar flow.  For example, the dimples on a golf ball create a thin
> turbulent layer which drags air and helps keep the lamina flow closer to
> the surface behind the ball.  The dimples add resistance to the flow but
> reduces the air wake behind the ball which reduces the overall drag force.
> The laminar flow around a smooth ball does not wrap around the back of the
> ball as well and leaves a larger wake.  The larger the wake, the larger the
> drag.
>
> I think it would be foolish to add dimples or an orange peel bottom,
> unless you have the resources to model and measure the effect for a
> particular boat.  Maybe adding some aft ruffness as the hull as turns
> inward, but this will strongly depend on the individual hull shape and
> likely have a positive effect at high water speeds (and a negative effect
> at low).   Of course, a great way to reduce one's wake is to foil.
>
> Most may recall that dimples of a spinning golf ball help in another and
> bigger way by providing lift(i.e. aids in better flight).  The spinning
> dimples drag air towards incoming flow and drag air away from the flow on
> the opposite side causing a high/low pressure difference (i.e.  lateral
> lift force).   This latter effect has not yet been exploited by sailors.
> Who knows, maybe we’ll see a spinning belted keel in the future driven by
> Kiwi’s pedal power.
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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Stus-List Re: Garboard

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I drill the same half inch diameter hole from the low point in the bilge to
outside on a downward angle and every spring I plug that hole with
thickened epoxy. Works good

On Mon, Nov 22, 2021 at 10:26 AM Tom Sancton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Looking at putting a garboard on my 35 mark 3. Has anyone done this?
> Looking at leaving my mast up but concerned about water entering the boat
> through the mast.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
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Stus-List Re: C 33-II vs 35-II

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Now check the predicted motion comfort factors for these boats. If you do
any cruising along the coast of NS the 35 MKII is very slippery and very
pleasant to be driving and nice accommodations too.

On Sat, Nov 13, 2021 at 4:39 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On a rea h a longer waterline boat usually has faster hull speed so would
> pass. If all boats were same design they would have same hull speed and
> woukd not pass on a long reach. On short courses  with short legs even wl
> length makes little difference.
>
> I know the races rob talks about . They usually have legs over a mile long
> so the bigger 35 would certainly be faster downwind and I don't disagree
> that the slightly more modern 33-2 faster upwind
>
> Just my thoughts
>
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax
> --
> *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* November 13, 2021 10:48:15 AM
> *To:* Stus-List
> *Cc:* Robert Abbott
> *Subject:* Stus-List C 33-II vs 35-II
>
> Matthew,
>
> Actually it was not at all impossible...it happened consistently over 5
> raceson the beat, the 33-II would reach the first windward mark before
> the 35-IIthe 33 always pointed higher...not much changed on the reach
> but the 35 gained a few boat lengths...then on the run, 35-II would take
> back all the 33-II gained on the beat and then some.  The 35 crossed the
> finish just ahead of the 33
>
> In my opinion, both boats were well crewed/sailed.
>
> What am I saying that is impossible?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> On 2021-09-10 10:33 a.m., Matthew via CnC-List wrote:
>
> That’s interesting.  I keep having issues with my local RC because they
> set only windward/leeward courses, no triangles and no reaches.  The
> reported rationale is that “no one ever passes anybody on a reach.”  What
> you’re saying is impossible.
>
>
>
> *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
> 
> *Sent:* Friday, September 10, 2021 9:23 AM
> *To:* Stus-List  
> *Cc:* Robert Abbott  
> *Subject:* Stus-List C 33-II vs 35-II
>
>
>
> Some years back when were campaigning a 33-II, we were racing her in the
> Bras d'Or Lakes.there was 35-II from Shediac, NB with a good crew.  The
> course was a beat, reach and runevery race was the same, the 33-ii
> would get to the first windward mark ahead the 35-II, but once on the reach
> and run, loose it all back.   There was nothing we could do to change it
> after 5 races.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bermuda return crew 2022

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Good luck

On Thu, Oct 28, 2021 at 2:34 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> Our new to us Hylas 49 arrived from California by truck yesterday.  She is
> well equipped, with a generator, watermaker, SSB, sat phone and all the
> required safety gear.  She'll have new standing rigging and electronics by
> spring.
>
> We will be doing the Annapolis Bermuda race on her, and once again I'm
> looking for return crew with some offshore experience.
>
> We will depart Bermuda around June 17.  It is a 5 day passage (4 if you
> get off in Norfolk).I pay for provisions, you pay for transportation.
>
> If interested, email me at joel.aron...@gmail.com.
>
> Joel
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Cockpit Floor Grating for a 34

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

https://cruisingconcepts.com/cockpit-grates-floorboards/

I had a custom made 4 inch high stand made for behind the wheel on my
35MKII.  It allowed my wife to see forward over the companionway while at
the helm and it took the exposed top end of the rudder post out of play. I
used jatoba wood (Brazilian cherry) which stood up to outdoor environment
very well and was less expensive than teak.

On Tue, Oct 26, 2021 at 1:27 PM Al Serrato via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I'm thinking about adding a teak (or trex) cockpit grating to my 1981 C
> 34.
>
> Does anyone know where I could find a kit for assembly that would fit the
> contours of the cockpit? Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Al Serrato
> *Senza Fine*
> San Francisco Bay
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Thanks. Is that the one that works. I had a ton of little white barnacle on
my prop and prop shat at haul out. I don’t think the prop would have driven
the boat. I had to get a tow to the marina for hail out because of another
reason ( did not get my wet exhaust fixed in time) so I don’t know for sure
if I could got there with auxiliary power. I am anxious to try zinc paint
next season

On Tue, Oct 26, 2021 at 7:10 AM Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Krylon makes a zinc galvanizing paint that you can find on most hardware
> store spray paint shelves.
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/26+Beacon+Hill+Newport,+RI+USA++02840?entry=gmail=g>
> Newport, RI
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/26+Beacon+Hill+Newport,+RI+USA++02840?entry=gmail=g>
>
> USA
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/26+Beacon+Hill+Newport,+RI+USA++02840?entry=gmail=g>
>  02840
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/26+Beacon+Hill+Newport,+RI+USA++02840?entry=gmail=g>
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Oct 26, 2021, at 06:06, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Where do you get “zinc paint”?
>
> On Mon, Oct 25, 2021 at 11:40 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Here in Vancouver, my boat guru suggested zinc paint for the prop and
>> shaft. I wasn’t too sure but now I’ve seen several yards using it. My prop
>> and shaft come out of the water (yearly) without hard growth on them. I’m
>> sold.
>>
>> Al Liles
>> SV Elendil, C 37/40+
>> Vancouver BC
>>
>>
>> On Oct 25, 2021, at 2:37 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Second Petit Prop Paint.  One must be careful with copper based paint on
>> stainless and bronze running gear;
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> John and Maryann (dec’d 7/18/2021)
>>
>> Legacy III
>>
>> 1982 C 34
>>
>> Noank, CT
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Neil Andersen via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
>> *Sent:* Monday, October 25, 2021 3:52 PM
>> *To:* Stus-List
>> *Cc:* Neil Andersen
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again
>>
>>
>>
>> I use Petit prop paint with good results
>>
>>
>>
>> Neil Andersen
>>
>> 1982 Ca& C 32, FoxFire
>>
>> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>> --
>>
>> *From:* Dean McNeill via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Monday, October 25, 2021 3:36 PM
>> *To:* Stus-List
>> *Cc:* Dean McNeill
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again
>>
>>
>>
>> First full season for me with my C 34 and I used Interlux Micron CSC,
>> as that’s what the previous owner ’thought’ was on it when I bought it. A
>> good friend has also used it on his Tartan 3700 for years with good
>> results.
>>
>>
>>
>> I used 2 to 3 coats after a light sanding of the previous coat(s) and it
>> has worked very well. Five months moored in the Northwest Arm in Halifax NS
>> and it was surprisingly super clean when it came out at end of season… a
>> little green scum in places but that’s it! Stainless prop shaft was caked
>> with barnacles and growth, so I’m guessing bottom paint worked great where
>> it was applied!
>>
>>
>>
>> Does anyone  coat their stainless prop shaft (or brass folding prop) with
>> bottom paint?
>>
>>
>>
>> Dean
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>  Thanks - Stu
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Where do you get “zinc paint”?

On Mon, Oct 25, 2021 at 11:40 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Here in Vancouver, my boat guru suggested zinc paint for the prop and
> shaft. I wasn’t too sure but now I’ve seen several yards using it. My prop
> and shaft come out of the water (yearly) without hard growth on them. I’m
> sold.
>
> Al Liles
> SV Elendil, C 37/40+
> Vancouver BC
>
>
> On Oct 25, 2021, at 2:37 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Second Petit Prop Paint.  One must be careful with copper based paint on
> stainless and bronze running gear;
>
>
>
>
>
> John and Maryann (dec’d 7/18/2021)
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Neil Andersen via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, October 25, 2021 3:52 PM
> *To:* Stus-List
> *Cc:* Neil Andersen
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again
>
>
>
> I use Petit prop paint with good results
>
>
>
> Neil Andersen
>
> 1982 Ca& C 32, FoxFire
>
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> --
>
> *From:* Dean McNeill via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, October 25, 2021 3:36 PM
> *To:* Stus-List
> *Cc:* Dean McNeill
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again
>
>
>
> First full season for me with my C 34 and I used Interlux Micron CSC, as
> that’s what the previous owner ’thought’ was on it when I bought it. A good
> friend has also used it on his Tartan 3700 for years with good results.
>
>
>
> I used 2 to 3 coats after a light sanding of the previous coat(s) and it
> has worked very well. Five months moored in the Northwest Arm in Halifax NS
> and it was surprisingly super clean when it came out at end of season… a
> little green scum in places but that’s it! Stainless prop shaft was caked
> with barnacles and growth, so I’m guessing bottom paint worked great where
> it was applied!
>
>
>
> Does anyone  coat their stainless prop shaft (or brass folding prop) with
> bottom paint?
>
>
>
> Dean
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine controls and Auto Pilots

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Same for my 4000 plus. It needed the rudder sensor to work at all. What a
PITA installing the rudder sensor was. When the Raymarine 4000 plus works
well on my boat I can use it to steer the boat straight upwind to hoist the
mainsail and I can use it while motoring but it seems to adjust too much
when sailing off the wind so I just don’t use it for that.

On Sun, Oct 24, 2021 at 8:02 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That's what I was wondering about. When I bought my 4000 Plus, the sales
> guy at defender said I didn't need the rudder feedback unit. But it was
> pretty worthless and I was very disappointed. Once I put the rudder
> feedback unit in, it worked brilliantly. The brains need to know where the
> rudder is otherwise it's just shooting in the dark. I wouldn't want to
> dissuade you from going to the hydraulic unit, as they are definitely
> superior. But I think you would be very surprised at how good it would work
> with the 4000 Plus and a rudder feedback.
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> On Sun, Oct 24, 2021, 4:45 PM Hans Reinhardt via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Bill,
>> My manual and technical records are  on the boat so I had to google
>> “rudder feedback arm”. Ete’ does not have a separate one. All feedback
>> signaling appears to happen via the wheel apparatus and dealt with in the
>> control head. As arms are readily  available new I would guess that they
>> are used in more current models. My Autohelm Wheel Pilot is quite old - 20
>> years? Shortly after I bought the boat in 2015 I looked into replacing the
>> autopilot. I remember that the latest wheel units were rated for no heavier
>> a boat. It’s at that point that I realized I would need to spring for and
>> shoehorn in an under deck unit. An engine replacement and compartment refit
>> in 2019 put that item off  a couple of years. I hope this helps.
>>
>> Hans R
>> S/V Ete’
>> 1982 C
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 24, 2021, at 12:10 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Hans, does your 4000 unit have the rudder feedback arm?
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> On Sun, Oct 24, 2021, 1:52 PM Hans Reinhardt via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Chuck,
>>> My 1982 C came with the older Autohelm 4000 (Raymarine) autopilot.
>>> The  unit is supposedly not that different than the latest model you are
>>> considering. Mine is inadequate downwind even in our relatively protected
>>> central Puget Sound waters. It is affected by more than wind speed - random
>>> puffs, wind shifts, crossing wave patterns,  large boat wakes, boat roll,
>>> etc. All give it panic attacks  and me the need for a beer once I am
>>> safely back on the dock.若 As the wind rises to the upper teens the unit is
>>> often inadequate upwind. As the wind rises further into the twenties I have
>>> found the unit to be useless. More experienced friends and marine tech
>>> sorts are not surprised. Fancy that. As my budget allows I plan to install
>>> a below deck unit, hydraulic or direct drive. That will be a bit of fun.
>>> FWIW, at 16-18K lbs. loaded, my boat is over the recommended displacement
>>> for the Autohelm wheel unit. I believe yours is similar. I have had to
>>> replace the little SSTL drive pins often. I’ve also changed drive belts and
>>> otherwise kept the unit well maintained and clean. I mostly singlehand and
>>> a strong, reliable autopilot is critical to my continued use of the boat. I
>>> am 70, reasonably fit and grew up around smaller boats and stupidly
>>> self-endangering marine situations  but am no champion or truly
>>> experienced old sea dog.
>>> So … happily not dead yet. 
>>> Twixt and ‘tween is not a generally happy place to be in, so …
>>> All the best,
>>> Hans R
>>> S/V Ete’   1982 C
>>> Shilshole Bay Marina
>>> Seatlle
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Oct 22, 2021, at 12:13 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>  Chuck
>>> minor typo!  Fat fingers!! - should have been 20 kts not 29.
>>> Don
>>>
>>> On 10/22/2021 2:51 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
>>> Chuck
>>>
>>> I have a C 35 Mk2 that has the older Raymarine ST4000 autopilot which
>>> is being used at its upper limits.  It does Ok up to about 20kts on Narra
>>> Bay, Buzzards Bay and Long Island Sound.  Have never engaged it above 20
>>> kts. The only problem I have had is the the three plastic "U" brackets that
>>> connect the unit to the helms spoke have cracked and needed to be
>>> replaced.  I think this was due to the Edson pedestal's brake which has
>>> become none functional and I initially used the Autohelm to lock the rudder
>>> when at anchor/mooring.  Not too smart!!
>>>
>>> Don Kern
>>> *Fireball, *C Mk2
>>> Bristol, RI
>>>
>>>
>>> On 10/22/2021 12:10 PM, Novabraid via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
>>> I’m contemplating adding a new wheel mount auto pilot (Raymarine EV-100)
>>> on my 1983 Landfall 35, equipped with an Edson 737 dual lever engine
>>> control 

Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I have used Aquaguard the last 2 years. Works good here in St. Margaret’s
Bay. Applied 1 coat (about 3L) over Petit Horizons.

On Mon, Oct 25, 2021 at 9:17 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> In contrast, the West Marine store brand is pretty much barnacle food, I
> think they LIKE the paint ☹
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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Stus-List Re: Engine controls and Auto Pilots

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I have a wheel mount Raymarine autopilot on my C 35 MKII a similar
displacement boat. It is not as reliable as you may think. The below deck
model may be better.

On Fri, Oct 22, 2021 at 1:10 PM Novabraid via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’m contemplating adding a new wheel mount auto pilot (Raymarine EV-100)
> on my 1983 Landfall 35, equipped with an Edson 737 dual lever engine
> control (the type with the two extra stainless tubes that carry the control
> cables). I was curious to see if anyone on the list may have attempted to
> add this style auto pilot to their boat using the same engine control to
> see if there were any clearance issues between the autopilot motor/drive
> unit and the control housing.  This type engine control extends below the
> top of the pedestal (beneath the compass) and has up/down levers on port
> and starboard.
>
> I am aware that I’m at the top end of the displacement range for a wheel
> pilot, however my main reason for wanting a pilot in the first place is to
> facilitate single handing the boat for setting and dousing sails as well as
> picking up moorings, etc.  I’m not looking to cross oceans, just simple
> coastal cruising but since my primary crew member has moved out West, not
> having an auto pilot means the boat will sit on the mooring far more often.
>   A below deck pilot brings with it the challenge of where to mount the
> drive unit and the cost of the more expensive pilot, the Edson tiller arm,
> and the fabrication of a shelf to mount the drive unit.
>
>
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 Landfall 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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Stus-List Re: GelCoat Color Matching and Cracked Mast Step

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Replace it please  with a strong component. The mast step is very important
on a sailboat.

On Fri, Oct 22, 2021 at 12:38 PM Todd Williams via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Well, yesterday, the boat was hauled out for the winter... time to get
> busy before winter sets in for Upstate NY. We had a great summer of sailing
> on our new to us 1980 C which we named Indigo Out We Go.
>
> 1 - There are some chips in the gelcoat, especially around the perimeter
> of the transom. What is the best way to go about color matching my
> beautiful blue gelcoat? Is this a factory color that I can reference by
> name or number at a marine supply store and get tinted? (See Photos for
> nice blue color)
>
> 2 - I bought Indigo with a cracked mast step plate. We sailed all summer
> with it, even up to 25+ knot gusts. I see no evidence of movement. I called
> an aluminum welder and he told me it would be tough to adequately reconnect
> the plate without knowing the alloy and grinding down the plate so the
> keelbolt doesn't crack it again (not sure if that is the original cause).
> Should I be concerned with this crack? Where am I likely to find a
> replacement part? (See Photos)
>
> PHOTOS - https://photos.app.goo.gl/XNxxNMUeBmkdUkyHA
>
> Thanks for the information on various threads all summer, I have learned a
> lot!
>
> TODD
> Sodus Bay, NY
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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Stus-List Re: Insurance…add international races with paid crew

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Correct

On Fri, Oct 22, 2021 at 12:13 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone on the list really sail with paid crew? When I could no longer
> afford the cost of racing between Astoria, Oregon and Victoria, BC (Oregon
> Offshore Race, now called the Pacific Northwest Offshore Race), I asked my
> crew to chip in one hundred dollars each. They felt one hundred wasn't
> enough, and they paid me two hundred each. They also provided all the food
> and paid for their own transportation home after the race. I paid the race
> entry fee and everything else (fuel, moorage, liferaft servicing, etc.)
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> On Fri, Oct 22, 2021 at 5:37 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I am sure plenty of people “forget” to mention the paid crew, but if you
>> want coverage you’ll need to talk to the people that insure all the big
>> yachts with paid crew. There is a lot that goes into proper coverage of
>> crew that would be unfamiliar to companies more used to insuring ski boats
>> on a lake. It is essentially a specialized form of workmen’s comp.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Thursday, October 21, 2021 11:35 AM
>> *To:* Stus-List 
>> *Cc:* Pete Shelquist 
>> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Insurance…add international races
>> with paid crew
>>
>>
>>
>> I’m rejuvenating this conversation and highlighting a specific need for a
>> friend of mine. They plan to race the boat internationally from Miami to
>> Nassau.  They also plan to have one or two paid crewmembers on board .
>>
>>
>>
>> Evidently that last sentence is a bit of a stickler for the carriers. I’m
>> curious if anyone on this list has come across this issue, or know someone
>> that has, and found a solution.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thank you
>>
>>
>>
>> Get Outlook for iOS
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --
>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!7D5Fokm4rQ4WlFvaJajWV7EOktiV0903xelqBzh2XfYFKopm3966tEn7sKl5L5-0uwU$
>>  Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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Stus-List Re: Electric Bilge Pump

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Come on man. You know how to fix that. If it all worked before then some
connection is broke now. I can help you with that come spring launch time

On Sun, Oct 17, 2021 at 11:14 AM Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dean
>
> The Manual operation always worked so it was wired correctly I will
> attempt to check the Manual connection.
>
> Rob
>
> On 2021-10-17 11:09 a.m., Dean McNeill via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Auto bilge pumps usually have 3 wires. A ground and then one positive to
> use if you want it to be auto or one positive to connect if you want it to
> be manual. You pick what function you want and wire it that way. My guess
> is you wired it for auto by mistake? I’ve done that!
>
> _
> From Dean’s mobile
> 902 489 8556
>
>
> On Oct 17, 2021, at 10:52 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List
>   wrote:
>
> My electric bilge pump has 3 settings, Auto (with a float to activate),
> Off, and Manual.  I turned on the Manual setting and the pump didn't come
> on.   It does work in the Auto settingif I fill the bilge to lift the
> float or raise it by hand, the pump works.
>
> Since and I am no electrician, any ideas where to look for the problem?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Used spinnaker

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Big loss. What were you doing flying that kite in a big wind. Lots of power
or what

On Mon, Oct 11, 2021 at 5:37 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Yesterday my 3/4 oz. chute exploded in a big wind.
> Now I am looking for a used replacement. Lead time to get a new one more
> than 6 months.
> So,if there are any C 44 listers out there with a chute to sell, I am
> interested.
> Fred Hazzard
> C 44
> S/V Fury
> Portland Or
> Sent from my iPhone
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: help with hull numbers

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

They were building lots of other designs too: 24’s, 25’s 26’s 27’s 29’s and
on. Busy little company really making quality boats.

On Fri, Oct 8, 2021 at 2:41 PM Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> In the case of the 30-1, from the numbers I have heard of, I don’t think
> there were skips. I have #593, and it was built in late 1980. From the ones
> numbered in the high 200’s which were built in 1974, that gives them six
> years to build 300 boats – 50 a year. One per week? Does not seem to be out
> of line.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> St. Michaels Maryland
>
>
>
> *From:* cenelson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, October 8, 2021 9:37 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* cenelson 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: help with hull numbers
>
>
>
> Has it been determined that C never skipped some hull numbers as
> different modifications to say a 30 Mk I were incorporated.
>
>
>
> In that case perhaps hull number 129 was followed by hull #200 which was
> the same ‘model’ but incorporated a new/improved something or other.
>
>
>
> Skipping numbers in a sequence is not unheard of in many industries.
>
>
>
> Charlie Nelson
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
> <https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661>
>
> On Friday, October 8, 2021, 9:03 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I think 351 C 35 MKI and MK II combined. Only 147 MKII’s and 204 MKl’s.
> And the marine carpenters did real nice teak work back in the mid 70’s and
> the hulls are thick solid polyester resin with glass fibre. No coring like
> balsa below the toe rail. Heavy and tough yet sleek looking and fast. No
> characteristic sword and dagger but unmistakable C quality.  I love the
> shear lines of my MKII and the extensive teak carpentry below decks.
> However, Considering the work required nowadays and the type of sailing I
> enjoy, I think I would trade my 35MKII for a good 30 MKI with diesel
> auxiliary power.
>
> On Fri, Oct 8, 2021 at 8:53 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have a 1973 C 35 Mk I, so in 73 they were not on MK IIs yet. I am hull
> number 179. The number of boats they built seems inconceivable today and
> they weren’t cheap, we paid more for our USED 35 than we did for our house!
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, October 8, 2021 5:37 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* dwight veinot 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: help with hull numbers
>
>
>
> I think you got it right. The C 30 MKI was a very popular design and my
> experience she is one helluva good boat. The company was turning out a lot
> of boats in 1974. My 35MK II hull 242 was also a 1974 model. I am not sure
> if there was a 1973 35MKII. Your 30 is one of the stiffest designs in the
> C line and slippery too. Good accommodations below as well. Congrats you
> got a good one.
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> --
>
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray%20>Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: help with hull numbers

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I think 351 C 35 MKI and MK II combined. Only 147 MKII’s and 204 MKl’s.
And the marine carpenters did real nice teak work back in the mid 70’s and
the hulls are thick solid polyester resin with glass fibre. No coring like
balsa below the toe rail. Heavy and tough yet sleek looking and fast. No
characteristic sword and dagger but unmistakable C quality.  I love the
shear lines of my MKII and the extensive teak carpentry below decks.
However, Considering the work required nowadays and the type of sailing I
enjoy, I think I would trade my 35MKII for a good 30 MKI with diesel
auxiliary power.
On Fri, Oct 8, 2021 at 8:53 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a 1973 C 35 Mk I, so in 73 they were not on MK IIs yet. I am hull
> number 179. The number of boats they built seems inconceivable today and
> they weren’t cheap, we paid more for our USED 35 than we did for our house!
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, October 8, 2021 5:37 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* dwight veinot 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: help with hull numbers
>
>
>
> I think you got it right. The C 30 MKI was a very popular design and my
> experience she is one helluva good boat. The company was turning out a lot
> of boats in 1974. My 35MK II hull 242 was also a 1974 model. I am not sure
> if there was a 1973 35MKII. Your 30 is one of the stiffest designs in the
> C line and slippery too. Good accommodations below as well. Congrats you
> got a good one.
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: help with hull numbers

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I think you got it right. The C 30 MKI was a very popular design and my
experience she is one helluva good boat. The company was turning out a lot
of boats in 1974. My 35MK II hull 242 was also a 1974 model. I am not sure
if there was a 1973 35MKII. Your 30 is one of the stiffest designs in the
C line and slippery too. Good accommodations below as well. Congrats you
got a good one.

On Thu, Oct 7, 2021 at 9:14 PM andrew_m--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi! I’m the proud owner of a C 30 mk1 with HIN CCY302810474. I’m trying
> to work out what hull number I have. From what I’ve googled the “0474”
> tells me she was built in April of 1974, the “CCY30” tells me she’s a C
> 30 mk1, and the “281” says she’s hull number 281 ??? April 1974 seems a
> little early in the production run to have made 280 boats. Can anyone help
> me decode the HIN?
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Those videos don’t stop. I had to reboot to get rid of them

On Mon, Oct 4, 2021 at 3:23 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Here are a couple videos of me pulling the spar on my 39 about 18 years
> ago, the first one it gets dark towards the end, done with one crew and my
> girlfriend at the time.
>
> The second you will have to cock your head sideways (sorry), this done
> with just me and the same woman, but it only takes us 2 minutes and 30
> seconds to do the deed each time, and the music is good.
>
>
>
> Worth exactly what you paid for it.
>
>
>
> https://youtu.be/cpz1hAODZAY
>
>
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icWBBccAKY8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, October 04, 2021 8:36 AM
> *To:* 'Stus-List'
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Mast in and out
>
>
>
> I agree with Joe
>
>
>
> Although we do it ourselves and do it every year we also need to have a
> group of people who come on their own time.  For these reasons I do
> everything I can before they arrive to use the least amount of their time
> that is necessary.  Much would be the same if you pay to have someone else
> do it as otherwise the Rigger would have to do these tasks that are very
> time consuming.
>
>
>
> Prior to the day of un-stepping the mast these are the things that I do
> and that you can also do:
>
>
>
> -  Have all masthead gear removed.  Wind transducer, windex, VHF
> antenna.  Send someone aloft to do this
>
> -  Have boom removed.
>
> -  De-rig all running rigging.  Have the halyards no longer
> running thru any blocks attached to the deck and coiled neatly and attached
> to mast
>
> -  Un-pin all shrouds and stays.  Lubricate all turn buckles.
> Take a turn off of each to ensure they are not seized
>
>
>
> These few steps take a lot of time but perhaps you can contact the people
> un-stepping the mast and see if doing this on un-stepping and then you
> doing the re-rigging would save on your quote.
>
>
>
> I know that we have worked on a lot of masts.  Some owners are far more
> prepared than others and as a result the job takes less than half the time
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* October 3, 2021 3:30 PM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* j...@dellabarba.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Mast in and out
>
>
>
> This is not routine here in Maryland, my mast has been out exactly one
> time. I think it was $160 out and $160 in, which was the hourly crane
> charge back then. I had all the sails off, wiring disconnected, forestay
> and backstay off replaced by halyards, boom off, and the shrouds ready to
> go. The crane was literally done in about 10 minutes. If you paid the yard
> to do everything I can well see it hitting $1000.
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Hauling, winter storage on the hard and launch run close to $2000 for my
35MKII. I store mast up and haven’t unstepped the mast for about 10 years
at least but if I unstepped on haulout, stored my mast on an outdoor rack
at the yard and then stepped before launch that would add another about
$600 to my bill.

On Sat, Oct 2, 2021 at 7:28 AM DJ via CnC-List 
wrote:

> We don't really have any of those clubs, I hear about in Canada, around
> these parts.  Most boatyards here see boat owners as 'marks' and try to
> squeeze as much of the boat owners money as they can get.  I was paying
> over $900 to haul, unstep/step the mast, and move the boat a couple miles
> to and from the storage yard, each way.  That's for a 40 foot boat with
> about 50 foot stick.
>
> Not all boat yards are run this way.  I can think of 2 right now that were
> good experiences but neither of them can handle my boat.  One will only
> take boats up 34 feet and the other did not want to mess with the track of
> the Sheafer boom furling system that ran up the mast.
>
> Most other yards make me want to sell my boat and give up on boating until
> i retire...
>
> Danny
>
> On Oct 1, 2021 11:10 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Same here (NSC in Ottawa). If you do it yourself, it cost you nothing; you
> just need a few friends to help. If you hire a local “service provider”,
> they will do it for about $100. I use them for the haul-out and unstepping
> in the fall, or for launching and stepping in the spring and the total cost
> is around $200-$300 (depending on the size of the boat). Our spar crane can
> handle most of the masts, though the Club limits the boat size to 36’ (so
> the masts are also limited in size). I think our spar crane can handle 500
> kg max.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
> *From:* Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, October 1, 2021 2:53 PM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Mast in and out
>
>
>
> We have a spar crane at our club that is no charge to members.  We get a
> group of owners together to do our own
>
>
>
> If we pay someone it is under $500 each way for  boat such as the 35.  I
> suspect that you may need to hire a boom truck, etc as part of your mast
> down and put it back up
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Jim Watts via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* October 1, 2021 2:51 PM
> *To:* 1 CnC List 
> *Cc:* Jim Watts 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Mast in and out
>
>
>
> As part of a quote for potentially painting the topsides, we were given a
> cost for the local rigger to take the mast out and put it back in. I
> thought $1500 was a little steep, but I haven't done this since we had our
> 29-2, so maybe prices have gone up by 10X in the interim. I'm curious as to
> what kind of costs folks are incurring on their mast work just to see if
> this is reasonable. I also recently got a quote for $4500 which then
> ballooned to $9000 and counting to replace our rod rigging with wire. Does
> this sound at all in the ballpark?
>
>
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Fuel pump

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I guess my Racor filter must be installed lower than the pickup line for
fuel in the tank because if I don’t close the valve in the line from the
tank fuel flow is continuous when I change the Racor filter element. My
facet electric fuel pump is mounted higher and a couple feet aft of my
Racor filter

On Mon, Sep 27, 2021 at 2:47 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Update on fuel issues: I spent a few hours more on the fuel system last
> weekend and things seem to be working, but unfortunately I am not sure what
> fixed it or even if it is fixed.  I replaced several more fuel lines and
> removed the vacuum gauge I had installed between the tank and the Racor
> just to simplify the possible vacuum leak points.  All the hoses looked
> good, but apparently you can’t always tell.  With the hose end heated in
> hot water trick, I was able to get the new hose on, but it was still a real
> battle in tight places.  The fittings were variable in size and style and
> some were really challenging.  After completing the connections, I turned
> on the fuel pump, expecting it to pull fuel from the tank and fill the
> Racor bowl.  It did not.  So I opened the Racor bowl, filled it and tested
> again, and the bowl stayed full.  I pulled the fuel level sensor so I could
> see inside the tank, and I could see fuel coming out of the return tube
> from the engine.  That told me I was in fact pumping fuel.  I then ran the
> engine for 30 min and all seemed well.
> I am hoping it is fixed but it is frustrating that I don’t know what was
> wrong.  Apparently, my “does the pump fill the bowl" test was not the
> correct way to assess function.  Is it possible that when the pump is full
> of air it can’t pull enough vacuum to feed the Racor?  Also, given that the
> original problem occurred twice a week apart, with it working fine for
> hours in between has me worried it will occur again.  Intermittent problems
> are the worst!  Fingers crossed.
>  I plan to replace the Racor with a newer model with a gauge built into
> the lid before next season.  I found new filters for my 200 Turbine series,
> but it seems they are getting harder to locate.  Probably not going to run
> out in my sailing lifetime, but the newer Racors seem a decent upgrade.
> Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Sep 25, 2021, at 3:36 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> When installing a hose to nipple fitting i recomnend using a hair dryer to
> warm the hose and liquid dish soap to lube the nipple barb.
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
> --
> *From:* cenelson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 23, 2021 3:09:10 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* cenelson 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Fuel pump
>
> Had a similar problem to yours several years ago. After doing most of what
> you have done, my diesel mechanic suggested just replacing the Racor MA
> 500(?) top plate since even a little over tightening can push the middle
> down enough that the O-ring on the circumference will leak enough that
> after running for a while the air inside it gets into the fuel lines.
>
> This was a cheap enough thing to do that I did it—along with a few other
> ‘fixes’ and the problem went away.
>
> Since it was not the only change I made, I can’t be certain that the new
> top plate solved the problem or if it was something else.
>
> Note I am pretty sure that the instructions for the Racor say to only hand
> tighten this plate or something similar—I now know why!
>
> Given how little extra tightening it would take at the Center to deflect
> the circumference/O-ring joint enough to suck air in, (probably a few
> microns could break the vacuum seal) and over time you have air bubbles
> that get to the engine or at least prevent fuel from getting to the engine.
>
> FWIW,
>
> Charlie Nelson
>
>
> Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
> 
>
> On Thursday, September 23, 2021, 12:36 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I meant bypass the Racor, turn on the pump and collect fuel into a
> secondary container to test.  I agree that I would not run the engine that
> way.  I am presuming that the flow of fuel through the filter should be a
> good test of the system since the problem was I was getting air into the
> primary Racor holder, so a vacuum leak likely somewhere.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
>
> On Sep 23, 2021, at 9:53 AM, Neil Andersen 
> wrote:
>
> I would think that risky.  If the Racor is the issue because it is 

Stus-List Re: Fuel pump

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Mind was from 1 of the bolts that hold the pump fast to the bulkhead and a
wire from there to a bus bar ground
On Wed, Sep 22, 2021 at 11:16 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am trying to diagnose fuel issue. I dont understand pump wiring. There
> appears to be only one wire to pump. Where is it grounded?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: wind instrument

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Things get old. We age with them. My new instruments are already old but I
like them and I want to keep them working like they do now. Good enough for
 me. Raymarine speed depth and wind. I find apparent wind angle invaluable
when it comes to  sail trim and VMG. My instruments are mounted in a pod
above the companionway in direct view from the helm. I like them

On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 3:31 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Investigate the Garmin Gwind transducer and Gnd 10 black box bridge.  At
> $600 it will provide NMEA 2000 wind data for you.
>
> It's a descendant of the Nexus instruments.  My 22 year old Nexus
> instruments still work well for me.  I use a Noland NMEA 0183 multiplexer
> to interface my Nexus instruments to my Simrad WP30 wheelpilot.  Steers to
> wind well.  I've been contemplating snagging a used Garmin black box bridge
> off eBay.  Routinely see them for $100.
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 1:00 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>>
>>
>> I am starting to think about adding the wind instrument to the boat. The
>> main reason is for being able to feed the data (wind direction) to the
>> EV-100 autopilot.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a SeatalkNG network on the boat. I don’t have a Raymarine MFC,
>> though (I have a small Garmin chartplotter, instead).
>>
>>
>>
>> I am a minimalist (you could say “cheap”), so e.g., I don’t have a Navpod
>> on the binnacle; rather I have two individual RAM mount pods (for the
>> chartplotter and one for the p70s (the autopilot control head).
>>
>>
>>
>> I unstep the mast for every winter, so I am biased towards a wireless
>> unit.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a few questions:
>>
>>
>>
>> - Any recommendations for the wind instrument (Raymarine, Garmin, B)?
>> My first choice would be a unit that talks NMEA 2000 (SeatalkNG) (as
>> opposed to an analog unit that requires an extra device (iTC-5?) to
>> connect. But this is mainly to control the costs.
>>
>>
>>
>> - With limited space at the helm, what is the minimum requirement to feed
>> the wind data to the EV-100 autopilot? I don’t think I need the detailed
>> wind angle displayed, as long as the AP can follow. Though I could put the
>> wind display somewhere else (on the bulkhead?). But if that display is not
>> required AND I could save the cost by not including it, I might be fine
>> with that.
>>
>>
>>
>> - Any strong recommendations against the wireless?
>>
>>
>>
>> - Any other suggestions or recommendations?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>> Marek
>>
>>
>>
>> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
>>
>> Ottawa, ON
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
>
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Fuel pump problem?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I have the same engine with a 12v Facet electric fuel pump. Check the 12v
supply to the pump first. When I turn the ignition key on if the fuel pump
is working there is a very obvious clicking sound. Open the bleed screw and
you should see a good flow of fuel. I purchased a solid state Facet 12v
fuel pump from Aircraft Spruce as some good person here recommended. Facet
model 40106 plus the inline filter for about $75 Cdn. Turned out my old
pump was fine but the 12v supply was gone. Fixed that, changed the
2,filters, bled the system and she started right up but almost immediately
the wet exhaust blew apart spewing salt water everywhere. It’s been a month
since and I am still trying to source parts to build a new wet exhaust
elbow. In the mean time got a tow to the marina and hauled the boat. Season
ended mid August just when the best sailing weather arrived here. Hope to
get it fixed soon so I can winterize.

On Mon, Sep 20, 2021 at 5:33 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Seems to be the week for Dave’s and diesel fuel problems.  Here is my
> story to hopefully get the wisdom of the group.
>
> Last Wednesday I was out for a lovely sail (7.5-8 knot reach across
> Fisher’s Island sound for lunch and back).  I had motored into the harbor
> on the other side of the sound for about 15 minutes and then back out again
> and no problems.  I got back to the mooring area and the engine started and
> then quit.  Tried a few times and it would only come close to starting if I
> gave it lots of throttle, but would still quit.  Sailed to the mooring
> (which I hit on the first try under sail single handed in 15+ knots of
> wind- I impressed myself) put away sails etc. and then tried the engine
> again and it started and ran fine.  I chalked it up to bad karma and went
> home.  Saturday, we sailed to Mystic and motored for an hour into the
> harbor to the Seaport with no problems.  Today we motored back out and
> after a long wait for the bridge to open (so about 30 min total motoring)
> the engine quit again and would not start.  A few times before it quit for
> good, it would suddenly decrease revs for a second and then back up.
> Fortunately, the wind direction allowed us to sail out of the harbor and
> back to the mooring where it would not start.
>
> Then I started taking things apart to diagnose. (Universal M4-30, electric
> fuel pump)
> 1.  Thought first my fuel gauge (reading half full tank) was mistaken or I
> had bad fuel.  Pulled the probe into the fuel tank and with a flashlight
> was able to see that the tank was half full and the fuel looked perfectly
> clean.
> 2.  Took the Racor lid off and found that the bowl was not full.  It was
> about 1-2” down so at about the level of the top of the primary filter.
> Obviously not good.  This triggered the thought that the sound the electric
> fuel pump had been making was not what I remembered.  Instead of a rapid
> continuous clicking, it was more irregular and perhaps not as loud.
> So I am thinking either bad fuel pump or bad power connection from the key
> switch to the fuel pump.  Does a dying fuel pump work one day and not the
> next?  The other possibility seems to be a small hole/crack in the fuel
> line so the pump can’t draw enough vacuum to pull fuel from the tank.  Not
> sure how to diagnose that and seems even less likely to allow the engine to
> work intermittently.
>
> Solutions/more diagnosis
> 1.  Should I just buy a replacement fuel pump and see if it solves the
> problem?  This is not inexpensive, but not a huge amount of money and a
> fairly easy test.  Universal pump was about $230 from Toad’s Marine, but I
> seem to remember people on the list talking about automotive sources that
> might be cheaper?
> 2.  Does one rebuild a fuel pump or buy a new one?
> 3.  Is there a good way to distinguish power issues from mechanical issues
> other than a new pump? A friend suggested filling the Racor bowl with fuel,
> then turning on the pump and see if it draws the level down.  The only
> problem with this is I don’t know how fast it normally pulls fuel so not
> sure how to tell if it was pumping, but not fast enough.
>
> Any thoughts welcome.  Home now, but plan to go down on Wednesday and work
> on fixing the problem.
> Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Balsa core history - problems and fixes

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I cut the outer fibreglass skin off with a rotary grinder. Nice straight
cuts and under the handrails after removing them.  I found the bad spots by
tapping with a hammer. Get a dull thud on tapping probably a wet rotten
spot. Dig out all the rotten stuff let dry and fill in with new half inch
thick end grain balsa matt. Use thickened polyester resin to apply and fill
like putty. Reinstall the fibreglass skin or just make a new one with
polyester resin and glass matt. Fill to surface with lightweight auto body
polyester filler and sand with a long sander. Paint with International
Brightside. Reinstall deck fittings. Good to go.

On Fri, Sep 17, 2021 at 5:34 PM Steve Thomas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
> Much has been written about the problem of wet balsa when and if it
> happens and I have seen many methods better and worse for deck repairs.
> What I have not seen are examples of how people have gone about repairing
> wet cored areas of the hull. Any pointers other than "forget about it"
> would be appreciated.
>
> Steve Thomas
>
>
>
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov; strig...@eastlink.ca
> Sent: Friday, September 17, 2021 1:32 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Balsa core history
>
> Yes that old foam is crap. The new Coosa
> https://coosacomposites.com/the-coosa-advantage/ and equivalents do not
> soak up water and are put together under tons of pressure.
>
> *From:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* September-17-21 11:21 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Balsa core history
>
> Typo
>
> Water migrates slowly through end-grain balsa but really tears foam up
>
> ---
> Snip snip snip
>
> 
>
> Great info and research; so, how did balsa go from "wonder" material to;
> "bad stuff don't touch..."?
> --
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C 33-II vs 35-II now race course design

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

It’s all about having fun together. The scoring systems for handicap racing
are imperfect we all know that. It will never be perfect I guarantee you
that. Enjoy your boat and do her best tack whenever you can and for as long
as you can. A close reach is where Alianna and everyone onboard seems
happiest.

On Sun, Sep 12, 2021 at 3:38 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Don,
>
> I'm not up on the details yet because my race participation has declined
> of late.  I also haven't received an ORRez certificate for Touche'.  The
> GYA is issuing ORRez certificates to replace the PHRF certificates soon.
>
> There was a lot of discussion on the New Orleans Yacht Club forum about
> the change.  For a while, races were scored under both PHRF and ORRez to
> compare the two systems.  I didn't follow the comparisons closely but it
> seems that the results closely tracked each other with the occasional
> flipping of a couple of places or two.
>
> The forum is found at:  https://noyc.org/wordpress/forum/
>
> There's a search field in the top right of the header.  Enter "orrez" to
> get a lot of discussion.
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sun, Sep 12, 2021 at 9:46 AM Donald Kern via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dennis
>> Does ORRez provide a base from which they adjust a boat model?  Also how
>> does the rating compare to the previous PHRF ratings, especially away from
>> the middle ratings of the fleet?
>>
>> Don Kern
>> *Fireball,* C Mk2
>> Bristol, RI
>>
>>
>> On 9/12/2021 4:40 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> My area is switching from PHRF to ORRez.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touché 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 84 Landfall 35 vs 91 Morris Justine 36

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

The C 33-2 is very fast on a beat. It has PHRF 132 and the older 35-2 has
PHRF 120. On a beat it’s hard for the 35-2 to stay with the slower rated
33-2. However from close reach to run the 35-2  excels. It is difficult for
a faster rated C 37 (PHRF 105) to stay with the slower rated C 35-2 on
those points of sail. I like sailing off the wind on a close reach, who
doesn’t?  That with the well know strong construction of the older 35’s was
one reason I got my 35-2 instead of a newer 33-2.

On Thu, Sep 9, 2021 at 6:17 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Lol-  never race either but if I did I’d probably notice that the 33-2 is
> faster than most others I encounter on the water, especially in light air,
> should I be noticing such things.
> I did get schooled last weekend by a good friend (an accomplished racer)
>  in a C 32 with tired sails.  (My 33-2 is faster, hands down, I’m not.) I
> Had to work very hard and find another gear to slowly catch up.   This in
> support of dwight’s point - the driver may matter more than the car.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 9, 2021, at 5:05 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Dwight, that doesn’t apply to me. I’m not like that. Besides my boat is
> so fast it’s never much of a contest. 
>
>
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/26+Beacon+Hill+Newport,+RI+USA+02840?entry=gmail=g>
> Newport, RI
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/26+Beacon+Hill+Newport,+RI+USA+02840?entry=gmail=g>
>
> USA 02840
> <https://www.google.com/maps/search/26+Beacon+Hill+Newport,+RI+USA+02840?entry=gmail=g>
>
> +401 965 5260
> https://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>
>
>
> On Sep 9, 2021, at 16:03, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> For some of us a race starts every time another sail is in sight. I am a
> little bit of that vintage lately having become more selective based on
> potential boat speed or phrases numbers. The landfalls are great C’s. I
> had a landfall 35 close by me in the yard. Nice and the 38 too. I like the
> ways my 35MKII flies on that tack. Waterline length is important but sail
> trim and crew work snd helm control are important. Get the boat in the
> groove on that tack probably she’ll let you know
>
> On Wed, Sep 8, 2021 at 11:05 PM Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Always pleasantly surprised at the speed of the C This past Sunday
>> with 10 to 15kn  wind I was sailing from Shelter Island with a friend in a
>> 92 Morris Justine.  On the a 13 mile run between Orient Point and Westbrook
>> CT on a beam to close reach the C Landfall consistently outpaced the
>> Morris. By the end we were probably close to 3/4 mile ahead.
>>
>> I though weight might be the biggest factor but the sail area to
>> displacement favored the Morris??  Does this come down to hull shape?  Not
>> sure I was out sailing him as I think he was pretty dialed in as well.   I
>> suppose the Morris may be more built for offshore maybe??  Would love some
>> thoughts from the group!
>>
>> Thanks in advance!!
>>
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers_wl=ym_sub1=Internal_sub2=Global_YGrowth_sub3=EmailSignature>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 84 Landfall 35 vs 91 Morris Justine 36

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

For some of us a race starts every time another sail is in sight. I am a
little bit of that vintage lately having become more selective based on
potential boat speed or phrases numbers. The landfalls are great C’s. I
had a landfall 35 close by me in the yard. Nice and the 38 too. I like the
ways my 35MKII flies on that tack. Waterline length is important but sail
trim and crew work snd helm control are important. Get the boat in the
groove on that tack probably she’ll let you know

On Wed, Sep 8, 2021 at 11:05 PM Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Always pleasantly surprised at the speed of the C This past Sunday with
> 10 to 15kn  wind I was sailing from Shelter Island with a friend in a 92
> Morris Justine.  On the a 13 mile run between Orient Point and Westbrook CT
> on a beam to close reach the C Landfall consistently outpaced the Morris.
> By the end we were probably close to 3/4 mile ahead.
>
> I though weight might be the biggest factor but the sail area to
> displacement favored the Morris??  Does this come down to hull shape?  Not
> sure I was out sailing him as I think he was pretty dialed in as well.   I
> suppose the Morris may be more built for offshore maybe??  Would love some
> thoughts from the group!
>
> Thanks in advance!!
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Baby stay vs new headsail

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Bowman forward pulling the foot of the sail  forward thru a tack.

On Thu, Sep 2, 2021 at 1:29 AM Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We’ve been sailing this summer with two exhausted composite headsails
> (110&125) purchased with our 37, Sirius.
>
> The leeches on both sails reveal a tortured past with the babystay. With a
> new Precision tiradial 120 coming over winter, we’re practicing tacks with
> no babystay contact, backwinding lightly to pull the sail over.
>
> Improvement needed.
>
> For those of you with babystays, what strategies do you employ to avoid
> sail contact with the stay and/or minimizing damage?
>
> I’ll search archives, too. Thx
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Solar question

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Does your bilge pump run that much in a week to drain your batteries. Must
be a lot of water getting in

On Sun, Aug 29, 2021 at 4:35 PM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> So, I took the solar panels and the Bimini in for the hurricane that was
> coming least week. And I had to keep them off for the week because I
> couldn't get back to the boat, and the batteries went down to 11.4 I guess
> running the bilge pump all week. I put the panels back up and I'm getting
> the voltage out of them but the victron is not charging the batteries.
> Would this be an indication that the batteries charge has gotten too low
> and that the Charger won't start the charge?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
> Danny
>
>  Original message 
> From: Stu via CnC-List 
> Date: 8/29/21 12:19 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: C Email List 
> Cc: Stu 
> Subject: Stus-List Don't forget the upcoming rendezvous
>
> Good afternoon
>
> Don’t forget our next online/virtual rendezvous on Tuesday,
> Aug 31, 2021 07:00 PM Eastern Time (US and Canada).
>
> You must register in advance for this meeting:
>
> https://us02web.zoom.us/meeting/register/tZUtdeGrpj0iGNCGFaM3Jukol37WHaa09Z9e
>
> After registering, you will receive information about joining the meeting.
>
> Hope to see you there.
>
> Stay safe ‘n’ healthy
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bruce anchors again - and chain

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Recommended chain at least equal to length of boat.

On Fri, Aug 27, 2021 at 7:50 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> So, after the recent discussion on anchors I too grabbed 15kg genuine
> Bruce on Kijiji for use on my 33-2, which currently has 50' HT chain (3/8|
> I believe) and a 10kg bruce, a setup that has never failed me.  This anchor
> and chain weighs around 100lb. I bought the second Bruce as a backup
> for cruising as \i have none, and I have no windlass.
> The 15kg bruce is of course 50% larger than the 10kg but it feels around
> 3X as awkward on the foredeck, though it does fil and just as well.  My
> sense though is that it, along with the 50' of chain, will be extremely
> secure once set but at or a bit beyond my comfort level for hand
> retrieval.
> If I reduced the chain to 40' from 50, the anchor and chain would again
> weigh around 100lb.   Retrieval becomes progressively easier with
> progressively less chain.   So, with the weight constraint of hand
> retrieval, Anchor size vs chain quantity becomes  a tradeoff..  (clearly
> this makes a powerful case for super high holding power anchors)
> For optimal holding power, how much or how little chain is optimal?
>  There are likely diminishing returns in this formula but where?
> Thanks for any input or musings!
>
> Dave Windstar, 33-2
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Replacing Cabin/Deck Balsa Core

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

And that putty works good with new balsa core

On Wed, Aug 25, 2021 at 2:28 PM dwight veinot  wrote:

> Maybe consider a polyester resin putty, glass beads or silica fibre mixed
> with the resin to make a mixture that has slow or no flow.
>
> On Wed, Aug 25, 2021 at 1:19 PM SV Mary Me via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I've got some soft spots returning on the deck at the base of the mast,
>> that a previous owner had made an attempt to shore up. According to the
>> owners manual, the cabin-ceiling/deck sandwich is balsa cored, so I'm
>> working with the assumption that this has rotted away.
>>
>> The local supply store has a plastic honeycomb panel to use as a base
>> material for fibreglass work that could use to fill the space, once the
>> rotted material is dug out. I also thought about using expanding,
>> self-hardening construction foam that could be shaved and shaped, then
>> 'glassed over.
>>
>> Has anyone used, or have any thoughts on using the expanding foam?
>>
>>
>> s/v Mary Me
>> 1975 C 24
>> Labelle, Florida USA
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>
-- 
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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Replacing Cabin/Deck Balsa Core

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Maybe consider a polyester resin putty, glass beads or silica fibre mixed
with the resin to make a mixture that has slow or no flow.

On Wed, Aug 25, 2021 at 1:19 PM SV Mary Me via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've got some soft spots returning on the deck at the base of the mast,
> that a previous owner had made an attempt to shore up. According to the
> owners manual, the cabin-ceiling/deck sandwich is balsa cored, so I'm
> working with the assumption that this has rotted away.
>
> The local supply store has a plastic honeycomb panel to use as a base
> material for fibreglass work that could use to fill the space, once the
> rotted material is dug out. I also thought about using expanding,
> self-hardening construction foam that could be shaved and shaped, then
> 'glassed over.
>
> Has anyone used, or have any thoughts on using the expanding foam?
>
>
> s/v Mary Me
> 1975 C 24
> Labelle, Florida USA
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: any Bruce anchor users?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Mine has been excellent actually the best test in a big overnight blow
where it held my C 35 and a Catalina 36 rafted along side us. I have the
stainless steel knock off version which was a mistake that looks good.  it
needs to be protected with its own anode or it destroys the zinc on the
anchor chain. Learned that but a little late so that meant 60 feet of new
5/16 galvanized chain. No problems now with the anode installed.

On Mon, Aug 23, 2021 at 2:45 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have no firsthand experience, but I have read several places that the
> knock-offs are not as good as the real Bruce.  Apparently tiny differences
> in the shape have big effects.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: any Bruce anchor users?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Get it. I have a Bruce knock off never left me down  even once

On Mon, Aug 23, 2021 at 11:44 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Someone on my street is selling a 33 pound real Bruce for $150.  I think
> it will be an improvement over my Danforth. Any Bruce fans?
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Universal M4-30 exhaust system

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I got it out of the boat without removing the heat exchanger. The flange
was bolted onto 3 studs that remained in the exhaust manifold when I
removed the nuts. I lost coolant when the flange was separated from the
manifold. That surprised me but it appears the system was built that way. I
unwrapped the heat shield and that allowed me to get a 14 mm socket with 3
inch extension unto the hidden nut. There was substantial deposit buildup
at the salt water inlet and there was a rather large piece of rubber stuck
in one of the elbows, that also surprised me. I really was impressed with
how 50/50 ATF/acetone worked as a penetrating oil. Now to get new bits and
pieces to build a new one. It really is amazing how well the engine worked
considering the restrictions in the exhaust elbow.

On Sat, Aug 21, 2021 at 9:20 AM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> That sounds like a hard job
> On Sat, Aug 21, 2021 at 8:16 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> In dealing with my fuel pump replacement I discovered that the exhaust
>> system is in dire need of repair. Has anyone with this engine ever tried to
>> remove the flange that connects the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold.
>> My exhaust pipe has broken and is leaking black exhaust gas and now copious
>> amounts of water into the engine compartment. It is attached to the
>> manifold with 3 bolts (studs). The upper 2 bolts are accessible and after a
>>  couple applications of penetrating oil (50/50 ATF/acetone) I was able to
>> get them loose. The 3rd bolt however is hidden and it seems I may have to
>> remove the heat exchanger to even get a 14 mm wrench on it. I am hoping
>> someone may have discovered a “secret” aside from turning the job over to
>> someone else. --
>> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca <http://www.jdroofing.ca>*
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaking hatch

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I replaced the lens on my forward hatch probably about 6 years ago. I used
black Sikaflex 295uv and Sikaflex primer. Still no leaks. The primer is
critical because the first time I did it I did not use the primer and it
only lasted about 2 years before it leaked. I believe that I still have the
original Bomar hatch put in Alianna at build in 1974.

On Sun, Aug 22, 2021 at 11:55 AM James Hesketh via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good luck with your boat!
>
> I recently resealed my forehatch (replaced the lens also) using Dow 795
> calk and believe it'll be a long-time cure from what I've seen, read and
> heard of it.
>
> Jim Hesketh
> Whisper C 26
> Miami, FL
>
> On Sun, Aug 22, 2021 at 10:35 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I noticed the other day that my starboard cabin top hatch was leaking.
>> It appeared to be coming in around the plexiglass itself.  It looks like a
>> PO had done some repair in the past, because there was a gooey black
>> sealant on the inside of the lens clearly added on top of the seal on the
>> outboard part of the lens, but not the inboard part (where it is now
>> leaking).  I will eventually pull the lens and reseal or replace, and will
>> try Capt. Tolley’s, but wondering if anyone knows what sealant might have
>> been used which would still be gooey after many years and bonds to
>> plexiglass?  Nothing I have used stays gooey after many years.  This all
>> presumes the boat is still there tomorrow.  Wind forecast is 50-60 at the
>> mooring later today.  Fingers crossed.  Dave
>>
>> David Knecht
>> Rear Commodore
>> Thames Yacht Club
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu