Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank replacements

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Interesting i have a plastic ?poly ? Tank now i have to check it out  looks 
like a platform was built for iy im sr
Starboard lazzerette next to house battery
Ies. It  will need to be removed to get to  vent hose , shaft ... who knows 
what else but not too thrilled  about that. No leaks though :)

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
www.flirtingwithfire.net<http://www.flirtingwithfire.net>


On Aug 17, 2020, at 8:25 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Yes, but polyethylene is not good for fuel tanks.  Plastic fuel tanks are 
constructed from some other type of plastic and they are normally molded.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com<http://dainyrays.blogspot.com>
email: dainyr...@icloud.com<mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>

On Aug 17, 2020, at 5:02 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Bob, didn’t you used to make Plastic tanks?

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2020 2:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Robert Boyer
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank replacements

I did the same thing about 5 years ago but upgraded to 1/4” thick.  The upgrade 
in thickness was a minimal cost.

Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com<http://dainyrays.blogspot.com>
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com<mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>
Annapolis, MD
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)


On Aug 17, 2020, at 2:04 PM, ssjohnson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
My tank had a label in the top for Florida Marine Tanks with a stamped model 
# mine was FMT-32-CC.  They found the original drawings.  6-8 weeks to have 
it made and shipped.  Full payment up front
.  Mine was $586 + $200 to epoxy coat + shipping of about%100.  Upgraded from 
1/8 inch to 3/16 inch aluminum.
Not so much fun this year..
Spencer Johnson
84 LF38
Waukegan IL
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank replacements

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Yes, but polyethylene is not good for fuel tanks.  Plastic fuel tanks are 
constructed from some other type of plastic and they are normally molded.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Aug 17, 2020, at 5:02 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Bob, didn’t you used to make Plastic tanks?
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
> Boyer via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, August 17, 2020 2:59 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Robert Boyer
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank replacements
>  
> I did the same thing about 5 years ago but upgraded to 1/4” thick.  The 
> upgrade in thickness was a minimal cost.
>  
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD 
> (Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)
> 
> 
> On Aug 17, 2020, at 2:04 PM, ssjohnson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My tank had a label in the top for Florida Marine Tanks with a stamped model 
> # mine was FMT-32-CC.  They found the original drawings.  6-8 weeks to 
> have it made and shipped.  Full payment up front
> .  Mine was $586 + $200 to epoxy coat + shipping of about%100.  Upgraded from 
> 1/8 inch to 3/16 inch aluminum.  
> Not so much fun this year..
> Spencer Johnson 
> 84 LF38
> Waukegan IL
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank replacements

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Bob, didn’t you used to make Plastic tanks?

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2020 2:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank replacements

 

I did the same thing about 5 years ago but upgraded to 1/4” thick.  The upgrade 
in thickness was a minimal cost.

 

Bob

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)

Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

Email: dainyr...@icloud.com

Annapolis, MD 

(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)





On Aug 17, 2020, at 2:04 PM, ssjohnson via CnC-List  
wrote:

My tank had a label in the top for Florida Marine Tanks with a stamped model 
# mine was FMT-32-CC.  They found the original drawings.  6-8 weeks to have 
it made and shipped.  Full payment up front

.  Mine was $586 + $200 to epoxy coat + shipping of about%100.  Upgraded from 
1/8 inch to 3/16 inch aluminum.  

Not so much fun this year..

Spencer Johnson 

84 LF38

Waukegan IL

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank replacements

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I did the same thing about 5 years ago but upgraded to 1/4” thick.  The upgrade 
in thickness was a minimal cost.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Aug 17, 2020, at 2:04 PM, ssjohnson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My tank had a label in the top for Florida Marine Tanks with a stamped model 
> # mine was FMT-32-CC.  They found the original drawings.  6-8 weeks to 
> have it made and shipped.  Full payment up front
> .  Mine was $586 + $200 to epoxy coat + shipping of about%100.  Upgraded from 
> 1/8 inch to 3/16 inch aluminum.  
> Not so much fun this year..
> Spencer Johnson 
> 84 LF38
> Waukegan IL
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Moeller has a few tanks with angled fill nozzles.  Whether they have one to
fit your boat, who knows?

There are a couple vendors of tank fittings which may offer solutions:
fillernecksupply.com and tanksinc.com

Dennis C.

On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 10:01 AM Mike Rose via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi there-
>
> I am looking to upgrade my fuel tank for added capacity. When I purchased
> the boat 20 years ago, I discovered a leaking aluminum tank weeks before
> launch. I located a 16.5 gal.Tempo tank that would easily fit. Now looking
> for a new tank, I have two questions:
> 1-Tempo seems to be gone, what other vendors are available (I prefer
> plastic)?
> 2-Most tanks have a 2" fill neck coupled with the bend radius of 1.5" A2
> fuel hose don't help the situation. What's the best solution to maximize
> tank height?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike Rose
> s/v Shannon Rose
> 1972 C 39, Hull #23
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Hello Mike,

 

I replaced my tank with a Kracor 28 gallon, which fit in there nicely.  Used 
the original rubber elbow to go into the fill, a little tight, but do-able.  I 
was trying to find the model# but I can’t find it, can only find info on the 
Kracor Holding tank.

Since Yamaha bought them, the  seem to be more difficult to deal with.  I would 
think Moeller would have something similar.

 

Bill Coleman

Erie PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mike Rose 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 11:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mike Rose
Subject: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

 

Hi there-

 

I am looking to upgrade my fuel tank for added capacity. When I purchased the 
boat 20 years ago, I discovered a leaking aluminum tank weeks before launch. I 
located a 16.5 gal.Tempo tank that would easily fit. Now looking for a new 
tank, I have two questions: 

1-Tempo seems to be gone, what other vendors are available (I prefer plastic)? 

2-Most tanks have a 2" fill neck coupled with the bend radius of 1.5" A2 fuel 
hose don't help the situation. What's the best solution to maximize tank height?

 

Thanks,

Mike Rose

s/v Shannon Rose

1972 C 39, Hull #23

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Depth (C 37+)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

11.5 inches - ish

Josh




On Mon, Mar 4, 2019, 2:45 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Anyone know the fuel tank depth on a C 37+?
>
> I’m looking to replace my sending unit.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone X
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Doug, Rick, Gary,

 

Thanks for the suggestions.  Am going to the boat today to begin the install
and see if I can figure out a way to better brace the tank to reduce if not
eliminate any movement.  

 

Thanks, 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2018 1:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

 

I went with a plastic tank and the original straps (shortened a bit). There
are small 1x1 'fences' around the tank on the platform and I shielded the
tank from the straps with some rubber strips.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Rick Brass via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2018 1:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

 

The tank in my 38 had similar pitting and a small leak. It was sitting on a
plywood platform aft of the engine and transmission (and pretty much over
the stuffing box).

 

When I replaced the tank, I put (5)  4"x4"x1/4" pads made from neoprene seal
bought at my local  Lowes. The tank is held in place by two wooden battens
over the top of the tank in an athwartship orientation. The battens are held
down by stainless rods attached to the support platform with washers and
wing nuts on top of the battens to tension the tank down on the rubber pads.

 

I suspect the idea of battens glassed in under that tank would work - after
all the idea is to allow air circulation so you don't get corrosion - so
long as you can keep the tank from shifting around as the boat moves.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nauset
Beach via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2018 12:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Nauset Beach mailto:nausetbe...@optonline.net> >
Subject: Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

 

A few weeks ago I discovered a diesel leak from the bottom of the tank - the
tank had 2 areas of pitting and one was sufficiently deep to start leaking
and warrant replacing the tank.  I now have the new AL tank and have a
couple of questions about installing it:  

 

The old tank was not strapped down and was resting directly on the ends of 2
stringers and the hull, surrounded on the sides [fairly tightly] by plywood.
This allowed the tank to shift slightly, more or less in place, which wore
on the two end points of the stringers, and that is where corrosion
developed and the leak occurred.  A while back someone (Rick Brass (?) who
is probably a little busy with Florence at the moment) recommended glassing
in old battens under the tank to reduce the opportunity for moisture to
collect and corrosion to occur.  Last week Joe mentioned he used Dri-Dek.
Is there a consensus on how to best support a fuel tank?  

 

The constant shifting of the tank was a contributing factor for the leak.
How do people tie down / strap AL diesel tanks?  There is not much that
looks overly solid to which I can screw in hold downs, like those that come
with this from Defender: 

 

 
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=scepter-expandable-tank-hold-down
-kit
<https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=scepter-expandable-tank-hold-dow
n-kit=-1|311|2349059|2349070=4201879>
=-1|311|2349059|2349070=4201879  

 

And what to people use for straps?  Would this Sceptre product be an
acceptable way to restrain the tank?  

 

Any suggestions?  

 

TIA,

Brian

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I went with a plastic tank and the original straps (shortened a bit). There
are small 1x1 'fences' around the tank on the platform and I shielded the
tank from the straps with some rubber strips.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Rick Brass via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2018 1:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

 

The tank in my 38 had similar pitting and a small leak. It was sitting on a
plywood platform aft of the engine and transmission (and pretty much over
the stuffing box).

 

When I replaced the tank, I put (5)  4"x4"x1/4" pads made from neoprene seal
bought at my local  Lowes. The tank is held in place by two wooden battens
over the top of the tank in an athwartship orientation. The battens are held
down by stainless rods attached to the support platform with washers and
wing nuts on top of the battens to tension the tank down on the rubber pads.

 

I suspect the idea of battens glassed in under that tank would work - after
all the idea is to allow air circulation so you don't get corrosion - so
long as you can keep the tank from shifting around as the boat moves.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nauset
Beach via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2018 12:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Nauset Beach mailto:nausetbe...@optonline.net> >
Subject: Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

 

A few weeks ago I discovered a diesel leak from the bottom of the tank - the
tank had 2 areas of pitting and one was sufficiently deep to start leaking
and warrant replacing the tank.  I now have the new AL tank and have a
couple of questions about installing it:  

 

The old tank was not strapped down and was resting directly on the ends of 2
stringers and the hull, surrounded on the sides [fairly tightly] by plywood.
This allowed the tank to shift slightly, more or less in place, which wore
on the two end points of the stringers, and that is where corrosion
developed and the leak occurred.  A while back someone (Rick Brass (?) who
is probably a little busy with Florence at the moment) recommended glassing
in old battens under the tank to reduce the opportunity for moisture to
collect and corrosion to occur.  Last week Joe mentioned he used Dri-Dek.
Is there a consensus on how to best support a fuel tank?  

 

The constant shifting of the tank was a contributing factor for the leak.
How do people tie down / strap AL diesel tanks?  There is not much that
looks overly solid to which I can screw in hold downs, like those that come
with this from Defender: 

 

 
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=scepter-expandable-tank-hold-down
-kit
<https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=scepter-expandable-tank-hold-dow
n-kit=-1|311|2349059|2349070=4201879>
=-1|311|2349059|2349070=4201879  

 

And what to people use for straps?  Would this Sceptre product be an
acceptable way to restrain the tank?  

 

Any suggestions?  

 

TIA,

Brian

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The tank in my 38 had similar pitting and a small leak. It was sitting on a
plywood platform aft of the engine and transmission (and pretty much over
the stuffing box).

 

When I replaced the tank, I put (5)  4"x4"x1/4" pads made from neoprene seal
bought at my local  Lowes. The tank is held in place by two wooden battens
over the top of the tank in an athwartship orientation. The battens are held
down by stainless rods attached to the support platform with washers and
wing nuts on top of the battens to tension the tank down on the rubber pads.

 

I suspect the idea of battens glassed in under that tank would work - after
all the idea is to allow air circulation so you don't get corrosion - so
long as you can keep the tank from shifting around as the boat moves.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nauset
Beach via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2018 12:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nauset Beach 
Subject: Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

 

A few weeks ago I discovered a diesel leak from the bottom of the tank - the
tank had 2 areas of pitting and one was sufficiently deep to start leaking
and warrant replacing the tank.  I now have the new AL tank and have a
couple of questions about installing it:  

 

The old tank was not strapped down and was resting directly on the ends of 2
stringers and the hull, surrounded on the sides [fairly tightly] by plywood.
This allowed the tank to shift slightly, more or less in place, which wore
on the two end points of the stringers, and that is where corrosion
developed and the leak occurred.  A while back someone (Rick Brass (?) who
is probably a little busy with Florence at the moment) recommended glassing
in old battens under the tank to reduce the opportunity for moisture to
collect and corrosion to occur.  Last week Joe mentioned he used Dri-Dek.
Is there a consensus on how to best support a fuel tank?  

 

The constant shifting of the tank was a contributing factor for the leak.
How do people tie down / strap AL diesel tanks?  There is not much that
looks overly solid to which I can screw in hold downs, like those that come
with this from Defender: 

 

 
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=scepter-expandable-tank-hold-down
-kit

=-1|311|2349059|2349070=4201879  

 

And what to people use for straps?  Would this Sceptre product be an
acceptable way to restrain the tank?  

 

Any suggestions?  

 

TIA,

Brian

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Brian,Those straps are for small tanks maybe 10 gal and under. Depends on how 
big your tank is. On my 39 the tanks are held in place by blocks of wood 
screwed to bulkheads. My tanks are all at least 30 gal. Hope this helps. Doug 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: Nauset Beach via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/14/18  09:10  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Nauset Beach  Subject: 
Stus-List Fuel Tank Support and Tie Down / Straps 
A few weeks ago I discovered a diesel leak from the bottom of the tank – the 
tank had 2 areas of pitting and one was sufficiently deep to start leaking and 
warrant replacing the tank.  I now have the new AL tank and have a couple of 
questions about installing it:   The old tank was not strapped down and was 
resting directly on the ends of 2 stringers and the hull, surrounded on the 
sides [fairly tightly] by plywood.  This allowed the tank to shift slightly, 
more or less in place, which wore on the two end points of the stringers, and 
that is where corrosion developed and the leak occurred.  A while back someone 
(Rick Brass (?) who is probably a little busy with Florence at the moment) 
recommended glassing in old battens under the tank to reduce the opportunity 
for moisture to collect and corrosion to occur.  Last week Joe mentioned he 
used Dri-Dek.  Is there a consensus on how to best support a fuel tank?   The 
constant shifting of the tank was a contributing factor for the leak.  How do 
people tie down / strap AL diesel tanks?  There is not much that looks overly 
solid to which I can screw in hold downs, like those that come with this from 
Defender:    
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=scepter-expandable-tank-hold-down-kit=-1|311|2349059|2349070=4201879
   And what to people use for straps?  Would this Sceptre product be an 
acceptable way to restrain the tank?   Any suggestions?   TIA,Brian___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Replacement

[William Walker via CnC-List]

John,
 On the fuel return, Moeller does have a fuel level sending unit that is an 
option if you need a fuel return.  It has a built in fuel return and is drop in 
replacement for standard fuel sending unit.  I am not affiliated with Moeller.
Bill Walker 
cnc 36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Tuesday, September 19, 2017 John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Allrighty then – have an alternate perspective on plastic fuel tanks.  My 
trusty Yanmar mechanic (years of experience and formerly on their advisory 
group) indicates a plastic tank may create an issue of compliance to current 
regulations on fire safety in an enclosed area with an attendant impact on a 
survey if the boat is sold.  He recommends only a new metal tank that can 
withstand a fire in the engine compartment without melting and spilling fuel.  
The plastic tanks are good for more open applications and should be used in a 
sailboat only if the tank area is separated / isolated from the engine area.  
Further, the Moeller does not have a dedicated fuel return fitting which is 
required for diesels so the only alternative is to “tee” into the vent line a 
less than ideal solution.

 

On another note, on inspection to remove the tank on a 34 appears to be a 
really tight fit around the engine and water heater.  Has any 34 owner actually 
removed their tank and care to share any tidbits of advice??

 

Thoughts from the esteemed group??

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Replacement

[William Walker via CnC-List]

John,
  Moeller tanks meet all USCG regs and ABYC, and more.  Fire retardency is in 
the specs.  Hose and hose clamps are also a place to be careful, as hose 
ratings vary widely and wrong hose can take you out of compliance quickly.
  I am not an expert, but having done some research before recently(in 
progress) replacing my metal tank with a Moeller and using only A1  rated hose 
for all lines including vent, I am comfortable that I am in full compliance and 
am safe
Bill Walker 
CnC  36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Tuesday, September 19, 2017 John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Allrighty then – have an alternate perspective on plastic fuel tanks.  My 
trusty Yanmar mechanic (years of experience and formerly on their advisory 
group) indicates a plastic tank may create an issue of compliance to current 
regulations on fire safety in an enclosed area with an attendant impact on a 
survey if the boat is sold.  He recommends only a new metal tank that can 
withstand a fire in the engine compartment without melting and spilling fuel.  
The plastic tanks are good for more open applications and should be used in a 
sailboat only if the tank area is separated / isolated from the engine area.  
Further, the Moeller does not have a dedicated fuel return fitting which is 
required for diesels so the only alternative is to “tee” into the vent line a 
less than ideal solution.

 

On another note, on inspection to remove the tank on a 34 appears to be a 
really tight fit around the engine and water heater.  Has any 34 owner actually 
removed their tank and care to share any tidbits of advice??

 

Thoughts from the esteemed group??

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Replacement

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Allrighty then – have an alternate perspective on plastic fuel tanks.  My 
trusty Yanmar mechanic (years of experience and formerly on their advisory 
group) indicates a plastic tank may create an issue of compliance to current 
regulations on fire safety in an enclosed area with an attendant impact on a 
survey if the boat is sold.  He recommends only a new metal tank that can 
withstand a fire in the engine compartment without melting and spilling fuel.  
The plastic tanks are good for more open applications and should be used in a 
sailboat only if the tank area is separated / isolated from the engine area.  
Further, the Moeller does not have a dedicated fuel return fitting which is 
required for diesels so the only alternative is to “tee” into the vent line a 
less than ideal solution.

 

On another note, on inspection to remove the tank on a 34 appears to be a 
really tight fit around the engine and water heater.  Has any 34 owner actually 
removed their tank and care to share any tidbits of advice??

 

Thoughts from the esteemed group??

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Replacement

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I used a small electric rotary pump which the boatyard mechanic uses. Five
gallons at a time, and the boatyard crane which is an old diesel unit will
take anything..

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 8:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Fuel Tank Replacement

 

Bill:

Just curioushow did you remove the diesel from the old tank?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-09-14 1:43 PM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:

Moving ahead on the project. Old tank out.  New ordered and delivered by
Amazon in 2 days..Moeller 19 gallon, 16 x 12 x 26.  90 degree hose and
straight hose connector as I think Dennis mentioned.
Two questions:
First, if I leave at least 2 inches of the 1.5 inch fuel line inlet
connector, can I trim its height if I need to?  It is going to be really
tight to get the 90 degree elbow on.  need to keep the plastic "sawdust" out
of tank somehow.
Second, the old aluminum tank was bonded to the deck filler and the to the
engine block.  Since this is plastic tank should I skip tank and bond deck
filler directly to engine?  What about  the sending unit.
Thanks
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Michigan

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail






___
 
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Replacement

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

I used the brass Jabsco hand pump used for oil changes, exchanging the
small tube for the dipstick with a piece of tubing that fit the input of
the pump. Took about 20 minutes to empty 12 gallons.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans, La.

On Fri, Sep 15, 2017 at 7:11 AM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Bill:
>
> Just curioushow did you remove the diesel from the old tank?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2017-09-14 1:43 PM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Moving ahead on the project. Old tank out.  New ordered and delivered by
> Amazon in 2 days..Moeller 19 gallon, 16 x 12 x 26.  90 degree hose and
> straight hose connector as I think Dennis mentioned.
> Two questions:
> First, if I leave at least 2 inches of the 1.5 inch fuel line inlet
> connector, can I trim its height if I need to?  It is going to be really
> tight to get the 90 degree elbow on.  need to keep the plastic "sawdust"
> out of tank somehow.
> Second, the old aluminum tank was bonded to the deck filler and the to the
> engine block.  Since this is plastic tank should I skip tank and bond deck
> filler directly to engine?  What about  the sending unit.
> Thanks
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Michigan
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Replacement

[William Walker via CnC-List]

John,
  I don't think so...my old tank had vent verticle..i got a 90* elbow for 
inlet...i have about 17" and tank is 12" plus the connections.
Bill Walker 
CnC 36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, September 14, 2017 John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi Bill

 

I am also planning to replace our tank.  The Moeller tank looks like the vent 
and outlet vertically oriented fittings which makes fitting under the cockpit 
sole a tight affair.  Can the tank be ordered with these fittings on a 90 
degree el fitting??

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William 
Walker via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2017 12:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Fuel Tank Replacement

 

Moving ahead on the project. Old tank out.  New ordered and delivered by Amazon 
in 2 days..Moeller 19 gallon, 16 x 12 x 26.  90 degree hose and straight hose 
connector as I think Dennis mentioned.
Two questions:
First, if I leave at least 2 inches of the 1.5 inch fuel line inlet connector, 
can I trim its height if I need to?  It is going to be really tight to get the 
90 degree elbow on.  need to keep the plastic "sawdust" out of tank somehow.
Second, the old aluminum tank was bonded to the deck filler and the to the 
engine block.  Since this is plastic tank should I skip tank and bond deck 
filler directly to engine?  What about  the sending unit.
Thanks
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Michigan

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Replacement

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Bill

 

I am also planning to replace our tank.  The Moeller tank looks like the vent 
and outlet vertically oriented fittings which makes fitting under the cockpit 
sole a tight affair.  Can the tank be ordered with these fittings on a 90 
degree el fitting??

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William 
Walker via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2017 12:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Fuel Tank Replacement

 

Moving ahead on the project. Old tank out.  New ordered and delivered by Amazon 
in 2 days..Moeller 19 gallon, 16 x 12 x 26.  90 degree hose and straight hose 
connector as I think Dennis mentioned.
Two questions:
First, if I leave at least 2 inches of the 1.5 inch fuel line inlet connector, 
can I trim its height if I need to?  It is going to be really tight to get the 
90 degree elbow on.  need to keep the plastic "sawdust" out of tank somehow.
Second, the old aluminum tank was bonded to the deck filler and the to the 
engine block.  Since this is plastic tank should I skip tank and bond deck 
filler directly to engine?  What about  the sending unit.
Thanks
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Michigan

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Replacement

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Thanks Joe.  I thought of trimming tank upside down after I posted.  Good 
suggestion. 
I am not sure about the ground going to the fuel gauge.  I thought the purpose 
of this ground was static electricity dissipation from tank and metallic filler 
intake from the fuel nozzle and fueling.  The sender will need to ground and 
could be tied together I guess with this...but I am unclear.  Wanted to be sure 
that tank is properly grounded if needed..Plastic?
Instructions from Moeller don't say anything about this I can find.  
Thanks again.
Bill Walker 
CnC 36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Thursday, September 14, 2017 Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

You will need to trim the 90 degree rubber hose to have one side only long 
enough to go onto the tank to clear. If the tank inlet itself needs trimming, I 
would do it upside down and then shop-vac the tank. The grounding connections 
will now go to the ground part of the fuel gauge connection.

 

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William 
Walker via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2017 12:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Fuel Tank Replacement 

 

Moving ahead on the project. Old tank out.  New ordered and delivered by Amazon 
in 2 days..Moeller 19 gallon, 16 x 12 x 26.  90 degree hose and straight hose 
connector as I think Dennis mentioned.
Two questions:
First, if I leave at least 2 inches of the 1.5 inch fuel line inlet connector, 
can I trim its height if I need to?  It is going to be really tight to get the 
90 degree elbow on.  need to keep the plastic "sawdust" out of tank somehow.
Second, the old aluminum tank was bonded to the deck filler and the to the 
engine block.  Since this is plastic tank should I skip tank and bond deck 
filler directly to engine?  What about  the sending unit.
Thanks
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Michigan

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

I scoped the fuel tank inside (after pumping out old fuel) and outside with
an automotive inspection unit with LED light before putting Tapestry into
service.  The exterior was pristine and the interior without pitting.  I
would do the same prior to replacement, or without access to a scope,
obtain a replacement.

Bill Dakin
S/V Tapestry
25MKII
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Ditto.  Aluminum on damp plywood with no airflow is ad undesirable
situation.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 9:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

The bottom of my tank had a bunch of pin holes in the flat part. The seams
were fine.
Gary



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

My aluminum tank sits on drydek panels and that sits on a starboard shelf. If 
you let aluminum sit on wet wood, it WILL corrode.
Could be worse - our original ternplate tank, after providing rust to clog 
things up, let go for good one night and dumped a full tank of gasoline into 
the bilge. My brother woke up ankle-deep in gas! 

Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 9:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

The bottom of my tank had a bunch of pin holes in the flat part. The seams were 
fine.
Gary

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
Subject: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

I have been talking to boat owners at our club about these decades old aluminum 
fuel tanks many of us C'ers have.a few have had the tanks leak (or weep) 
as they call it.  The leak(s) were not caused by the
bottom(s) rusting (as aluminum does not rust, it corrodes) ..the leaks were 
caused by stress cracks in the weld joints.

Two members took their tanks out for examination and found the leaks in the 
weld joint(s)took the tank(s) to a metal fabrication shop and had them 
repaired..actually had the weld joints reinforced and put the tanks back 
in.  One member did it 10 years ago and the tank is still in his boat with no 
problems.

I am leaning now in this direction.probably won't save me any money but 
that is not as important as getting a new tank installed with potentially new 
fittings, adapters, elbows, etc, etc.  Getting a fuel tank in and out of the 
engine compartment is not like working on the 'work bench'.

FYI

> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The bottom of my tank had a bunch of pin holes in the flat part. The seams
were fine.
Gary

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

I have been talking to boat owners at our club about these decades old
aluminum fuel tanks many of us C'ers have.a few have had the tanks
leak (or weep) as they call it.  The leak(s) were not caused by the
bottom(s) rusting (as aluminum does not rust, it corrodes) ..the leaks
were caused by stress cracks in the weld joints.

Two members took their tanks out for examination and found the leaks in the
weld joint(s)took the tank(s) to a metal fabrication shop and had them
repaired..actually had the weld joints reinforced and put the tanks back
in.  One member did it 10 years ago and the tank is still in his boat with
no problems.

I am leaning now in this direction.probably won't save me any money but
that is not as important as getting a new tank installed with potentially
new fittings, adapters, elbows, etc, etc.  Getting a fuel tank in and out of
the engine compartment is not like working on the 'work bench'.

FYI

> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Yep, cut that elbow to fit and use a coupler to connect to the fill hose.
See this:

http://www.fillernecksupply.com/1-1-2-or-38mm-fuel-hose-joiner-coupler-splice/

Dennis C.

On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 8:38 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> http://www.fillernecksupply.com/gates-1-1-2-90-degree-
> fuel-filler-elbow-gates-24715-goodyear-59205/
>
>
>
> Wow – I could have saved about $100 if I knew about this! That would be
> perfect for the 35, just need a hose-to-hose for the 1/5” fill.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 10, 2017 5:08 PM
> *To:* CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement
>
>
>
> Probably this site:
>
>
>
> http://www.fillernecksupply.com/fuel-hose-elbows/?sort=featured=1
>
>
>
> Gates makes cut to fit hose elbows.
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 10, 2017 at 3:53 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Look at the Moeller web site, they have a huge collection of tanks. I seem
> to remember there is one which had an angled in fill on a corner which was
> a
> little big for my boat, but may fit yours.
>
> There is also a site called "fuel hoses" or similar with all sorts of
> fittings including elbows - it may be "fuel hose elbows".  Google gave it
> to
> me. As they are the same size as the hose, you need a little nipple.
>
> Gary
> .
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2017 3:03 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
> Subject: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement
>
> I just measured my fuel tank.27" wide, 16" deep, 12" height+7"
> top clearance to the cockpit solenot the easiest to access to remove
> it but doable with some four letter words and beers.   Need to ensure
> the in fill on the tank has a 90 deg. intake to make connecting the in hose
> easy, maybe simply doable!
>
> I like the idea of the Moeller tanks that are transparent.not just to
> determine the fuel level but possibly seeing anything in the tank.
> Someone here , maybe Dennis, earlier gave me a Moeller 19 gallon part
> #.   The hunt is now on.
>
> The position Bill is in now is just the position I stated the other day I
> did not want to be inreplaced the fuel tank because it is now, or near
> now, that the tank will need to be replaced.
>
> Good luck to you Billlet us know how you fair out.what tank you
> acquire.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> On 2017-09-10 9:40 AM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:
> >
> > All this talk about leaking tanks caused mine to spring a leak on
> > Fridayreally.
> > Wish the access on my 36 was as good as others seem to have. Espar
> > furnace and refrigeration complicate things for me.Dei Dennis, what
> > tank do you recommend?  Good website for fitting install in plastic?
> > Or do the come ready to go?
> > Bill Walker CnC 36
> > Penteater, Mi
> >
> > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> >
> >
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Got that too:
http://www.fillernecksupply.com/1-1-2-or-38mm-fuel-hose-joiner-coupler-splice/



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2017 9:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

http://www.fillernecksupply.com/gates-1-1-2-90-degree-fuel-filler-elbow-gates-24715-goodyear-59205/

Wow – I could have saved about $100 if I knew about this! That would be perfect 
for the 35, just need a hose-to-hose for the 1/5” fill.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2017 5:08 PM
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com<mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

Probably this site:

http://www.fillernecksupply.com/fuel-hose-elbows/?sort=featured=1

Gates makes cut to fit hose elbows.

Dennis C.

On Sun, Sep 10, 2017 at 3:53 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Look at the Moeller web site, they have a huge collection of tanks. I seem
to remember there is one which had an angled in fill on a corner which was a
little big for my boat, but may fit yours.

There is also a site called "fuel hoses" or similar with all sorts of
fittings including elbows - it may be "fuel hose elbows".  Google gave it to
me. As they are the same size as the hose, you need a little nipple.

Gary
.
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2017 3:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca<mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>>
Subject: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

I just measured my fuel tank.27" wide, 16" deep, 12" height+7"
top clearance to the cockpit solenot the easiest to access to remove
it but doable with some four letter words and beers.   Need to ensure
the in fill on the tank has a 90 deg. intake to make connecting the in hose
easy, maybe simply doable!

I like the idea of the Moeller tanks that are transparent.not just to
determine the fuel level but possibly seeing anything in the tank.
Someone here , maybe Dennis, earlier gave me a Moeller 19 gallon part
#.   The hunt is now on.

The position Bill is in now is just the position I stated the other day I
did not want to be inreplaced the fuel tank because it is now, or near
now, that the tank will need to be replaced.

Good luck to you Billlet us know how you fair out.what tank you
acquire.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2017-09-10 9:40 AM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:
>
> All this talk about leaking tanks caused mine to spring a leak on
> Fridayreally.
> Wish the access on my 36 was as good as others seem to have. Espar
> furnace and refrigeration complicate things for me.Dei Dennis, what
> tank do you recommend?  Good website for fitting install in plastic?
> Or do the come ready to go?
> Bill Walker CnC 36
> Penteater, Mi
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
>


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

http://www.fillernecksupply.com/gates-1-1-2-90-degree-fuel-filler-elbow-gates-24715-goodyear-59205/

Wow – I could have saved about $100 if I knew about this! That would be perfect 
for the 35, just need a hose-to-hose for the 1/5” fill.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2017 5:08 PM
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

Probably this site:

http://www.fillernecksupply.com/fuel-hose-elbows/?sort=featured=1

Gates makes cut to fit hose elbows.

Dennis C.

On Sun, Sep 10, 2017 at 3:53 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Look at the Moeller web site, they have a huge collection of tanks. I seem
to remember there is one which had an angled in fill on a corner which was a
little big for my boat, but may fit yours.

There is also a site called "fuel hoses" or similar with all sorts of
fittings including elbows - it may be "fuel hose elbows".  Google gave it to
me. As they are the same size as the hose, you need a little nipple.

Gary
.
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2017 3:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca<mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>>
Subject: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

I just measured my fuel tank.27" wide, 16" deep, 12" height+7"
top clearance to the cockpit solenot the easiest to access to remove
it but doable with some four letter words and beers.   Need to ensure
the in fill on the tank has a 90 deg. intake to make connecting the in hose
easy, maybe simply doable!

I like the idea of the Moeller tanks that are transparent.not just to
determine the fuel level but possibly seeing anything in the tank.
Someone here , maybe Dennis, earlier gave me a Moeller 19 gallon part
#.   The hunt is now on.

The position Bill is in now is just the position I stated the other day I
did not want to be inreplaced the fuel tank because it is now, or near
now, that the tank will need to be replaced.

Good luck to you Billlet us know how you fair out.what tank you
acquire.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2017-09-10 9:40 AM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:
>
> All this talk about leaking tanks caused mine to spring a leak on
> Fridayreally.
> Wish the access on my 36 was as good as others seem to have. Espar
> furnace and refrigeration complicate things for me.Dei Dennis, what
> tank do you recommend?  Good website for fitting install in plastic?
> Or do the come ready to go?
> Bill Walker CnC 36
> Penteater, Mi
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
>


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[David Kaseler via CnC-List]

Lots of folks have been talking about fuel tank fill and advising a 90 degree 
intake for simpler hose attachment. 
SLY has two fuel tanks, one plastic under the cockpit where the original 
aluminum one was with a straight vertical intake hose connection, plus another 
stainless tank forward under the settee on the starboard side where the settee 
forms an L next to the stove.  This one has a 90 degree intake configuration.
If I need to remove fuel from the after tank it is easy to temporarily remove 
the filler hose from the tank, lead a siphon hose down from the deck fitting 
into the tank and reconnect the filler hose. I'm unable to get the siphon hose 
past the flange on the plastic tank without temporarily removing the filler 
hose but that's not a big deal. 
If I need to remove fuel from the forward tank with the 90 degree intake it 
becomes much more difficult. The siphon hose does not want to go around the 
corner formed by the 90 degree intake. I'm able to force it around the corner 
but it always scrapes some the rubber from the siphon hose and deposits it into 
the tank. So far this has not caused a problem but it sure could if these 
scrapings were sucked up into the pickup tube.
So, something else to think about.
Regards, 
Dave. Kaseler
SLY 1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 10, 2017, at 12:03 PM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I just measured my fuel tank.27" wide, 16" deep, 12" height+7" top 
> clearance to the cockpit solenot the easiest to access to remove it but 
> doable with some four letter words and beers.   Need to ensure the in fill on 
> the tank has a 90 deg. intake to make connecting the in hose easy, maybe 
> simply doable!
> 
> I like the idea of the Moeller tanks that are transparent.not just to 
> determine the fuel level but possibly seeing anything in the tank.  Someone 
> here , maybe Dennis, earlier gave me a Moeller 19 gallon part #.   The hunt 
> is now on.
> 
> The position Bill is in now is just the position I stated the other day I did 
> not want to be inreplaced the fuel tank because it is now, or near now, 
> that the tank will need to be replaced.
> 
> Good luck to you Billlet us know how you fair out.what tank you 
> acquire.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> 
>> On 2017-09-10 9:40 AM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:
>> 
>> All this talk about leaking tanks caused mine to spring a leak on 
>> Fridayreally.
>> Wish the access on my 36 was as good as others seem to have. Espar furnace 
>> and refrigeration complicate things for me.Dei
>> Dennis, what tank do you recommend?  Good website for fitting install in 
>> plastic?  Or do the come ready to go?
>> Bill Walker CnC 36
>> Penteater, Mi
>> 
>> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Yup we now have our winter project - replace the 35 year old tank before it
gives up the ghost.  Measured ours and is exactly same as Robert's.  Keep us
all posted on what you find

John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2017 3:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

I just measured my fuel tank.27" wide, 16" deep, 12" height+7" 
top clearance to the cockpit solenot the easiest to access to remove 
it but doable with some four letter words and beers.   Need to ensure 
the in fill on the tank has a 90 deg. intake to make connecting the in hose
easy, maybe simply doable!

I like the idea of the Moeller tanks that are transparent.not just to
determine the fuel level but possibly seeing anything in the tank.  
Someone here , maybe Dennis, earlier gave me a Moeller 19 gallon part 
#.   The hunt is now on.

The position Bill is in now is just the position I stated the other day I
did not want to be inreplaced the fuel tank because it is now, or near
now, that the tank will need to be replaced.

Good luck to you Billlet us know how you fair out.what tank you
acquire.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2017-09-10 9:40 AM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:
>
> All this talk about leaking tanks caused mine to spring a leak on 
> Fridayreally.
> Wish the access on my 36 was as good as others seem to have. Espar 
> furnace and refrigeration complicate things for me.Dei Dennis, what 
> tank do you recommend?  Good website for fitting install in plastic?  
> Or do the come ready to go?
> Bill Walker CnC 36
> Penteater, Mi
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
>


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Probably this site:

http://www.fillernecksupply.com/fuel-hose-elbows/?sort=featured=1

Gates makes cut to fit hose elbows.

Dennis C.

On Sun, Sep 10, 2017 at 3:53 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Look at the Moeller web site, they have a huge collection of tanks. I seem
> to remember there is one which had an angled in fill on a corner which was
> a
> little big for my boat, but may fit yours.
>
> There is also a site called "fuel hoses" or similar with all sorts of
> fittings including elbows - it may be "fuel hose elbows".  Google gave it
> to
> me. As they are the same size as the hose, you need a little nipple.
>
> Gary
> .
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2017 3:03 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert 
> Subject: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement
>
> I just measured my fuel tank.27" wide, 16" deep, 12" height+7"
> top clearance to the cockpit solenot the easiest to access to remove
> it but doable with some four letter words and beers.   Need to ensure
> the in fill on the tank has a 90 deg. intake to make connecting the in hose
> easy, maybe simply doable!
>
> I like the idea of the Moeller tanks that are transparent.not just to
> determine the fuel level but possibly seeing anything in the tank.
> Someone here , maybe Dennis, earlier gave me a Moeller 19 gallon part
> #.   The hunt is now on.
>
> The position Bill is in now is just the position I stated the other day I
> did not want to be inreplaced the fuel tank because it is now, or near
> now, that the tank will need to be replaced.
>
> Good luck to you Billlet us know how you fair out.what tank you
> acquire.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> On 2017-09-10 9:40 AM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:
> >
> > All this talk about leaking tanks caused mine to spring a leak on
> > Fridayreally.
> > Wish the access on my 36 was as good as others seem to have. Espar
> > furnace and refrigeration complicate things for me.Dei Dennis, what
> > tank do you recommend?  Good website for fitting install in plastic?
> > Or do the come ready to go?
> > Bill Walker CnC 36
> > Penteater, Mi
> >
> > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> >
> >
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Look at the Moeller web site, they have a huge collection of tanks. I seem
to remember there is one which had an angled in fill on a corner which was a
little big for my boat, but may fit yours.

There is also a site called "fuel hoses" or similar with all sorts of
fittings including elbows - it may be "fuel hose elbows".  Google gave it to
me. As they are the same size as the hose, you need a little nipple.

Gary
.
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2017 3:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

I just measured my fuel tank.27" wide, 16" deep, 12" height+7" 
top clearance to the cockpit solenot the easiest to access to remove 
it but doable with some four letter words and beers.   Need to ensure 
the in fill on the tank has a 90 deg. intake to make connecting the in hose
easy, maybe simply doable!

I like the idea of the Moeller tanks that are transparent.not just to
determine the fuel level but possibly seeing anything in the tank.  
Someone here , maybe Dennis, earlier gave me a Moeller 19 gallon part 
#.   The hunt is now on.

The position Bill is in now is just the position I stated the other day I
did not want to be inreplaced the fuel tank because it is now, or near
now, that the tank will need to be replaced.

Good luck to you Billlet us know how you fair out.what tank you
acquire.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2017-09-10 9:40 AM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:
>
> All this talk about leaking tanks caused mine to spring a leak on 
> Fridayreally.
> Wish the access on my 36 was as good as others seem to have. Espar 
> furnace and refrigeration complicate things for me.Dei Dennis, what 
> tank do you recommend?  Good website for fitting install in plastic?  
> Or do the come ready to go?
> Bill Walker CnC 36
> Penteater, Mi
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
>


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement 35-1

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I have replaced my fuel tank. It is pretty easy, it comes right out once you 
empty all the stuff out of the locker.
WARNING: 

The original fuel tank in the MK I is ternplate and it WILL leak sooner or 
later.

The original fill and vent hoses are NOT ethanol rated and will dissolve from 
the inside out, dropping rubber pieces into the tank.

The 90 degree rubber elbow thing is NOT fuel rated and will come apart sooner 
or later. Mine spilt while fueling and dumped 5 gallons into the bilge. I got a 
new one fabricated from aluminum at my local welding shop.

A C 35 MK I exploded and burned after refueling and I will bet anything it 
was the rubber elbow. I would have too if I hadn’t caught it with the blower.

The supply hose is likewise not ethanol rated. If you still have copper line, 
that is no longer used, it eventually cracks.

Really nothing but the filler should be original and I got a new cap for that 
because the old O-ring was not sealing.

 

I think my tank now is this one – been awhile since I bought it.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/rds-manufacturing--below-deck-aluminum-fuel-tank-18ga--244485?recordNum=2

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> 

 

Coquina

C 35 MK i

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2017 8:47 AM
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement 35-1

 

I have a Plastimo (black) but would rather have a Moeller (translucent) because 
you can see the fuel level.  Not sure about your configuration but you should 
be able to find a close fit.

 

http://moellermarine.com/product-category/fuel-containment/permanent-fuel-tanks/

 

Determine which model best fits then go online shopping using the model number.

 

Dennis C.

 

On Sun, Sep 10, 2017 at 7:40 AM, William Walker via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

All this talk about leaking tanks caused mine to spring a leak on 
Fridayreally.
Wish the access on my 36 was as good as others seem to have.  Espar furnace and 
refrigeration complicate things for me.
Dennis, what tank do you recommend?  Good website for fitting install in 
plastic?  Or do the come ready to go?
Bill Walker CnC 36
Penteater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

  _  

On Saturday, September 9, 2017 Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Like Neil says, removing the tank is not difficult.  Last time I pulled mine 
took less than an hour.  I needed to get to the strut bolts.

 

The concern is the elbow on the fill hose.  If you damage it, replacement may 
be difficult.  Gates makes an elbow that can be cut to fit but you may need a 
coupling or nipple to make it work.

 

If your fill hose is original, I STRONGLY suggest you replace it.  It is well 
past its useful life.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 8:42 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hervey,

Getting it out was not too difficult,  the tank fits out through the lazarette 
under the starboard seat.  My tank was held in place by two galvanized steel 
straps, corrosion from which caused the leak. Hardest part was undoing the fill 
and vent connections, had to get to them through the panel at the aft end of 
the port quarter berth. 

As someone mentioned in a recent post, getting the fill hose back on was a 
pain.  If I recall there's an elbow just off the tank connection, little bit of 
a struggle to make it tight.  I used fabric straps to hold the new plastic tank 
down.  My tank gauge has never worked so I just look through the wall of the 
tank to see the level.

 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement 35-1

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis...
Bill Walker 




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement 35-1

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I have a Plastimo (black) but would rather have a Moeller (translucent)
because you can see the fuel level.  Not sure about your configuration but
you should be able to find a close fit.

http://moellermarine.com/product-category/fuel-containment/permanent-fuel-tanks/

Determine which model best fits then go online shopping using the model
number.

Dennis C.

On Sun, Sep 10, 2017 at 7:40 AM, William Walker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All this talk about leaking tanks caused mine to spring a leak on
> Fridayreally.
> Wish the access on my 36 was as good as others seem to have.  Espar
> furnace and refrigeration complicate things for me.
> Dennis, what tank do you recommend?  Good website for fitting install in
> plastic?  Or do the come ready to go?
> Bill Walker CnC 36
> Penteater, Mi
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> --
> On Saturday, September 9, 2017 Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Like Neil says, removing the tank is not difficult.  Last time I pulled
> mine took less than an hour.  I needed to get to the strut bolts.
>
> The concern is the elbow on the fill hose.  If you damage it, replacement
> may be difficult.  Gates makes an elbow that can be cut to fit but you may
> need a coupling or nipple to make it work.
>
> If your fill hose is original, I STRONGLY suggest you replace it.  It is
> well past its useful life.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 8:42 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hervey,
>>
>> Getting it out was not too difficult,  the tank fits out through the
>> lazarette under the starboard seat.  My tank was held in place by two
>> galvanized steel straps, corrosion from which caused the leak. Hardest part
>> was undoing the fill and vent connections, had to get to them through the
>> panel at the aft end of the port quarter berth.
>>
>> As someone mentioned in a recent post, getting the fill hose back on was
>> a pain.  If I recall there's an elbow just off the tank connection, little
>> bit of a struggle to make it tight.  I used fabric straps to hold the new
>> plastic tank down.  My tank gauge has never worked so I just look through
>> the wall of the tank to see the level.
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement 35-1

[William Walker via CnC-List]

All this talk about leaking tanks caused mine to spring a leak on 
Fridayreally.
Wish the access on my 36 was as good as others seem to have.  Espar furnace and 
refrigeration complicate things for me.
Dennis, what tank do you recommend?  Good website for fitting install in 
plastic?  Or do the come ready to go?
Bill Walker CnC 36
Penteater, Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Saturday, September 9, 2017 Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

Like Neil says, removing the tank is not difficult.  Last time I pulled mine 
took less than an hour.  I needed to get to the strut bolts.


The concern is the elbow on the fill hose.  If you damage it, replacement may 
be difficult.  Gates makes an elbow that can be cut to fit but you may need a 
coupling or nipple to make it work.


If your fill hose is original, I STRONGLY suggest you replace it.  It is well 
past its useful life.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA


On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 8:42 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hervey,

Getting it out was not too difficult,  the tank fits out through the lazarette 
under the starboard seat.  My tank was held in place by two galvanized steel 
straps, corrosion from which caused the leak. Hardest part was undoing the fill 
and vent connections, had to get to them through the panel at the aft end of 
the port quarter berth. 

As someone mentioned in a recent post, getting the fill hose back on was a 
pain.  If I recall there's an elbow just off the tank connection, little bit of 
a struggle to make it tight.  I used fabric straps to hold the new plastic tank 
down.  My tank gauge has never worked so I just look through the wall of the 
tank to see the level.



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement 35-1

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Like Neil says, removing the tank is not difficult.  Last time I pulled
mine took less than an hour.  I needed to get to the strut bolts.

The concern is the elbow on the fill hose.  If you damage it, replacement
may be difficult.  Gates makes an elbow that can be cut to fit but you may
need a coupling or nipple to make it work.

If your fill hose is original, I STRONGLY suggest you replace it.  It is
well past its useful life.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 8:42 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hervey,
>
> Getting it out was not too difficult,  the tank fits out through the
> lazarette under the starboard seat.  My tank was held in place by two
> galvanized steel straps, corrosion from which caused the leak. Hardest part
> was undoing the fill and vent connections, had to get to them through the
> panel at the aft end of the port quarter berth.
>
> As someone mentioned in a recent post, getting the fill hose back on was a
> pain.  If I recall there's an elbow just off the tank connection, little
> bit of a struggle to make it tight.  I used fabric straps to hold the new
> plastic tank down.  My tank gauge has never worked so I just look through
> the wall of the tank to see the level.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement 35-1

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Hervey,

Getting it out was not too difficult,  the tank fits out through the 
lazarette under the starboard seat.  My tank was held in place by two 
galvanized steel straps, corrosion from which caused the leak. Hardest 
part was undoing the fill and vent connections, had to get to them 
through the panel at the aft end of the port quarter berth.


As someone mentioned in a recent post, getting the fill hose back on was 
a pain.  If I recall there's an elbow just off the tank connection, 
little bit of a struggle to make it tight.  I used fabric straps to hold 
the new plastic tank down.  My tank gauge has never worked so I just 
look through the wall of the tank to see the level.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 9/9/2017 9:28 PM, Hervey Machen via CnC-List wrote:

Neil,
Curious as to how you removed the fuel tank on your 35-1, as I've been 
concerned about our tank, but looks like a daunting task to remove the 
tank.

Hervey Machen
Ciothog 35-1, #115
Solomons MD


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Steve, 
  A timely thread.  Until yesterday I was watching it with a ho hum attitude.  
  Yesterday while prepping to move boat to a race venue 10 miles away, a crew 
said, what's the diesel smell?  
  Long and short, didnt move boat, pumped diesel from bilge...pin hole leaks in 
bottom of tank, original aluminum.  So, either fix it now or fix it at 
inopportune time...
Bill Walker 1981 CnC 36
Pentwater, Mu

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Saturday, September 9, 2017 robert via CnC-List  
wrote:
Steve:

Appreciate the advice.genuinelyhowever, I am the type of guy 
that tries to get out in front of trouble/problems before they become 
sameI am O.K. managing crisis.I just like to avoid it in the 
first place. My fuel tank is approaching 34 years, probably aluminum, 
however, I do believe it will fail (probably a slow leak around the 
welded joints where the tank sits on top of the wooden platform like 
another C lister here today) . So if this is a possibility, why not 
get out in front when you have the time to plan, shop around and get 
exactly what you want for the price you are willing to pay, and avoid 
the possibility of a fuel leak at the most inopportune time. My slip 
neighbors would not like me pumping diesel fuel from my bilge, which is 
a likely scenario when these things happen during the sailing season.

Yes, the boat is old, however, it is in great condition because I bought 
it that way from the original owner in 2006 and I have maintained it 
that way since. I fellow club member with a 1984 C 32 had his mixing 
elbow crack mid season.when the engine was on, it was spewing salt 
water but more importantly, gases (e.g. CO) He lost a month sailing 
until he got someone to replace it. The following Fall after haulout, I 
replaced my mixing elbow, muffler, exhaust hosesI did the work 
myself and it was not an easy job..old boat but new parts that wear 
out and therefore peace of mind. I put a new anchor light on the mast 
top this Spring but I never anchor..why?because it is there and 
it should work should I decide to overnight anchor.

I understand a small leak won't stop me from boating/sailing, however, I 
don't want to experience a small fuel leak and the smell of diesel in my 
boat if I can avoid it. And I know my tank is clean.I just changed 
my primary and secondary fuel filters and they were very 
clean.hadn't been changed in 8 years.that's how confident I am 
in the fuel in the tank and the cleanliest of the tank.

My brother has a new 33' sailboat and it almost sank this Summer because 
his new boat had a cracked retaining nut on the raw water 
strainer..until it was replaced he had to close the thru hull or the 
boat would fill up with water. his automatic/electric bilge pump 
worked fine until his battery(s) capacity expired. So even a new boat 
can leave you short of peace of mind.

Bottom lineevery year the old boat gets something done to it so I 
can have a stress free sailing season.the fuel tank's time has come 
I thinkthat is my next project and when it is finished, I will feel 
good.

Again, greatly appreciate all the input from the people 
hereinvaluable to me as a boat owner.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2017-09-09 11:40 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
> The whole boat is old. If new is the criterion for peace of mind, then you 
> need a new boat. Not leaking and you are not departing on a world trip, then 
> I wouldn't worry about it. If a leak ever develops it is unlikely to start 
> out big and it won't stop you from getting home.
> What can suddenly stop you is guk in the bottom of the tank getting sucked up 
> in rough weather. Water in the fuel can cause that in a relatively short 
> time. The hole for the fuel sender is big enough to take a look inside. Guk 
> is a bigger problem down south, and a lot of people install dual filter 
> systems as a precaution. One clogs, switch to the other. Also, a screen at 
> the end of the pick up tube is likely to clog if guk in the tank gets shook 
> loose by rough weather. It is not just a southern problem. It happened to a 
> friend of mine who was heading south from Chester NS. Had to get towed into 
> Liverpool. Couldn't sail it in the prevailing weather. Better to get rid of 
> the screen and rely on the primary filter. Your choice what to worry about 
> and where to spend your time and money. Same caveat on free advice applies.
>
> Steve.
>
>  robert via CnC-List  wrote:
> For $200, I would simply forget putting the old tank back in even after
> a good inspection.just the peace of mind is worth $200plus my
> labor which can be obtained for adequate amounts of beer.
>
> Now, can I buy a new fuel tank locally or do I have to order from afar?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2017-09-08 5:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>> Keep in mind that pitting 

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Had a similar experience to Gary when I repowered my 38 in 2010.

Had noticed diesel smell, but could not find any leaks in the lines or
fittings. While the engine was out I pulled the old tank to get access for
another project and discovered several pinholes in the bottom of the 20
gallon aluminum tank where it sat on the plywood platform and moisture
collected. I guess I wasn't too surprised or disappointed in finding the
leaks - after all, the old OEM tank had been in place for 35 years.

I replaced the old tank with a 22 gallon monel tank that had come from a gas
powered boat that had been converted to diesel. The tank was cheap and it
fit on the platform. A local machine shop added a fitting to the top of the
tank for about $25, so the whole experience was pretty cheap - probably
under $100. I went to Lowes and bought a small sheet of neoprene (maybe
4"x6"?) gasket material and made some 1" square rubber pads to put between
the new(ish) tank and the wood platform.

And, BTW, both my OEM tank and the monel tank had a threaded collar in the
top for a 1 1/2" pipe fitting. I put in a 90 degree elbow th handle the
transition from horizontal hose to vertical fill.

Rick Brass
Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47
Washington, NC

  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 9, 2017 10:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

My 1980 version was 19 gallons and made of aluminum. Last year, it started
weeping - small leak I couldn't find. Pulled it out and found a whole bunch
of tiny pinholes in the bottom where it rested on the plywood.




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

The whole boat is old. If new is the criterion for peace of mind, then you need 
a new boat. Not leaking and you are not departing on a world trip, then I 
wouldn't worry about it. If a leak ever develops it is unlikely to start out 
big and it won't stop you from getting home. 
What can suddenly stop you is guk in the bottom of the tank getting sucked up 
in rough weather. Water in the fuel can cause that in a relatively short time. 
The hole for the fuel sender is big enough to take a look inside. Guk is a 
bigger problem down south, and a lot of people install dual filter systems as a 
precaution. One clogs, switch to the other. Also, a screen at the end of the 
pick up tube is likely to clog if guk in the tank gets shook loose by rough 
weather. It is not just a southern problem. It happened to a friend of mine who 
was heading south from Chester NS. Had to get towed into Liverpool. Couldn't 
sail it in the prevailing weather. Better to get rid of the screen and rely on 
the primary filter. Your choice what to worry about and where to spend your 
time and money. Same caveat on free advice applies. 

Steve. 

 robert via CnC-List  wrote: 
For $200, I would simply forget putting the old tank back in even after 
a good inspection.just the peace of mind is worth $200plus my 
labor which can be obtained for adequate amounts of beer.

Now, can I buy a new fuel tank locally or do I have to order from afar?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-09-08 5:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
> Keep in mind that pitting may be on the inside from water in the 
> fuel/condensation.
>
> A new plastic tank is under $200.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:00 PM, robert via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
>
> That's what it looks likealuminum, rounded corners, welded
> ends.I have yet to actually measure it but I am guessing it it
> approx. 24" wide, maybe 20" deep and 18" height..I think it is
> the original 20 gallon tank that sits on an open wooden frame
> (ends on the wooden ledge(s) ) with most of the bottom
> exposedthe bottom that is exposed looks fine but it is what I
> can not see that I would like to inspect.it's the welded ends
> on the bottom where the tank fits on the wooden frame that is my
> concern.
>
> The boat was in fresh water for its first 21 years.well
> maintainedsince I have owned it, the fuel tank is in a salt
> water environment but the tank has not been subjected to salt
> water on it.
>
> Empty it, remove it, clean it, inspect it.then make a decision
> about replacing it.  I may have just decided on a plan.
>
> Will keep you informed.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
>
> On 2017-09-08 4:08 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
>
> The standard tanks are aluminum, rounded corners, welded ends.
> It it looks like that, then that is what it is. Otherwise
> there was such a thing as special customer orders. I looked at
> at 35 once that had a cylindrical monel tank. Don't know it it
> was original or not, but it appeared to have been there for a
> while.
>
> Up to you, but I would remove it, clean it really good, and
> inspect it very carefully before making a decision to replace
> it. If salt water has been kept away the condition might
> surprise you.
>
> Advice is worth exactly what you pay for it.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>
> C
> Merritt Island, FL
>
>  robert via CnC-List  > wrote:
> I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is
> metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure
> what the
> fuel tank was made from?
>
> Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and
> inspecting it and possibly replacing it.
>
> Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options? Where
> would I
> obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?
>
> Any and all input greatly appreciated.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our
> members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
> costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our
> members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
> 

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Agreed with Dennis. Be careful when you measure the old tank. Mine had the 
filler tube coming out of the tank on the top but then had a right angle in the 
filler tube which the filler hose fit over. I had a bear of a time finding a 
Moeller tank which fit, because they have the filler tube coming straight out 
of the top and not bent. I ended up with a smaller tank to fit under the 
cockpit sole, because of the difficulty in bending the filler hose (stiff as 
hell with wire inside) from near horizontal to vertical. Moeller has a wide 
selection.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 8, 2017 5:03 PM
To: robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>; CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

 

That was my point.  For $200 it isn't worth putting a decades old tank back in. 
 

 

When I bought Touche', it had a steel tank.  A buddy of mine gave me an almost 
new aluminum tank of the same profile.  I installed it.  After 4 years I 
repowered and put in a plastic tank.  The aluminum tank was showing signs of 
pitting and corrosion after only 4 years.

 

Accurately measure the old tank, the clearance above it and get an idea of 
space around it.  Go to Moeller's site and figure out the best fit.  My guess 
is a 19 gallon Moeller Marine 032519 but make sure.

 

You can find them online easily.  eBay even has them.

 

Dennis C.

 

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:24 PM, robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca 
<mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca> > wrote:

For $200, I would simply forget putting the old tank back in even after a good 
inspection.just the peace of mind is worth $200plus my labor which can 
be obtained for adequate amounts of beer.

Now, can I buy a new fuel tank locally or do I have to order from afar?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S. 

On 2017-09-08 5:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Keep in mind that pitting may be on the inside from water in the 
fuel/condensation. 

 

A new plastic tank is under $200.

 

Dennis C.

 

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:00 PM, robert via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

That's what it looks likealuminum, rounded corners, welded ends.I have 
yet to actually measure it but I am guessing it it approx. 24" wide, maybe 20" 
deep and 18" height..I think it is the original 20 gallon tank that sits on 
an open wooden frame (ends on the wooden ledge(s) ) with most of the bottom 
exposedthe bottom that is exposed looks fine but it is what I can not see 
that I would like to inspect.it's the welded ends on the bottom where the 
tank fits on the wooden frame that is my concern.

The boat was in fresh water for its first 21 years.well maintainedsince 
I have owned it, the fuel tank is in a salt water environment but the tank has 
not been subjected to salt water on it.

Empty it, remove it, clean it, inspect it.then make a decision about 
replacing it.  I may have just decided on a plan.

Will keep you informed.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.





On 2017-09-08 4:08 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

The standard tanks are aluminum, rounded corners, welded ends. It it looks like 
that, then that is what it is. Otherwise there was such a thing as special 
customer orders. I looked at at 35 once that had a cylindrical monel tank. 
Don't know it it was original or not, but it appeared to have been there for a 
while.

Up to you, but I would remove it, clean it really good, and inspect it very 
carefully before making a decision to replace it. If salt water has been kept 
away the condition might surprise you.

Advice is worth exactly what you pay for it.

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C
Merritt Island, FL

 robert via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is
metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the
fuel tank was made from?

Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and
inspecting it and possibly replacing it.

Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I
obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?

Any and all input greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



__

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My 1980 version was 19 gallons and made of aluminum. Last year, it started
weeping - small leak I couldn't find. Pulled it out and found a whole bunch
of tiny pinholes in the bottom where it rested on the plywood.

Look for Mueller tanks (Plastic) on Amazon. I did and ended getting mine
from an RV place in New Jersey. Better price but had to pay shipping. It
turned out to be the same cost overall.

Gary

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 8, 2017 10:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Fuel Tank

I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is 
metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the 
fuel tank was made from?

Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and inspecting
it and possibly replacing it.

Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I
obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?

Any and all input greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Moeller at Amazon.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briarpatch
New Orleans

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 4:04 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> That was my point.  For $200 it isn't worth putting a decades old tank
> back in.
>
> When I bought Touche', it had a steel tank.  A buddy of mine gave me an
> almost new aluminum tank of the same profile.  I installed it.  After 4
> years I repowered and put in a plastic tank.  The aluminum tank was showing
> signs of pitting and corrosion after only 4 years.
>
> Accurately measure the old tank, the clearance above it and get an idea of
> space around it.  Go to Moeller's site and figure out the best fit.  My
> guess is a 19 gallon Moeller Marine 032519 but make sure.
>
> You can find them online easily.  eBay even has them.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:24 PM, robert  wrote:
>
>> For $200, I would simply forget putting the old tank back in even after a
>> good inspection.just the peace of mind is worth $200plus my labor
>> which can be obtained for adequate amounts of beer.
>>
>> Now, can I buy a new fuel tank locally or do I have to order from afar?
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>> On 2017-09-08 5:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Keep in mind that pitting may be on the inside from water in the
>> fuel/condensation.
>>
>> A new plastic tank is under $200.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:00 PM, robert via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> That's what it looks likealuminum, rounded corners, welded
>>> ends.I have yet to actually measure it but I am guessing it it approx.
>>> 24" wide, maybe 20" deep and 18" height..I think it is the original 20
>>> gallon tank that sits on an open wooden frame (ends on the wooden ledge(s)
>>> ) with most of the bottom exposedthe bottom that is exposed looks fine
>>> but it is what I can not see that I would like to inspect.it's the
>>> welded ends on the bottom where the tank fits on the wooden frame that is
>>> my concern.
>>>
>>> The boat was in fresh water for its first 21 years.well
>>> maintainedsince I have owned it, the fuel tank is in a salt water
>>> environment but the tank has not been subjected to salt water on it.
>>>
>>> Empty it, remove it, clean it, inspect it.then make a decision about
>>> replacing it.  I may have just decided on a plan.
>>>
>>> Will keep you informed.
>>>
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 2017-09-08 4:08 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
 The standard tanks are aluminum, rounded corners, welded ends. It it
 looks like that, then that is what it is. Otherwise there was such a thing
 as special customer orders. I looked at at 35 once that had a cylindrical
 monel tank. Don't know it it was original or not, but it appeared to have
 been there for a while.

 Up to you, but I would remove it, clean it really good, and inspect it
 very carefully before making a decision to replace it. If salt water has
 been kept away the condition might surprise you.

 Advice is worth exactly what you pay for it.

 Steve Thomas
 C MKIII
 Port Stanley, ON

 C
 Merritt Island, FL

  robert via CnC-List  wrote:
 I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is
 metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the
 fuel tank was made from?

 Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and
 inspecting it and possibly replacing it.

 Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I
 obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?

 Any and all input greatly appreciated.

 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.




 ___

 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
 wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


 ___

 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
 wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to 

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

That was my point.  For $200 it isn't worth putting a decades old tank back
in.

When I bought Touche', it had a steel tank.  A buddy of mine gave me an
almost new aluminum tank of the same profile.  I installed it.  After 4
years I repowered and put in a plastic tank.  The aluminum tank was showing
signs of pitting and corrosion after only 4 years.

Accurately measure the old tank, the clearance above it and get an idea of
space around it.  Go to Moeller's site and figure out the best fit.  My
guess is a 19 gallon Moeller Marine 032519 but make sure.

You can find them online easily.  eBay even has them.

Dennis C.

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:24 PM, robert  wrote:

> For $200, I would simply forget putting the old tank back in even after a
> good inspection.just the peace of mind is worth $200plus my labor
> which can be obtained for adequate amounts of beer.
>
> Now, can I buy a new fuel tank locally or do I have to order from afar?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2017-09-08 5:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Keep in mind that pitting may be on the inside from water in the
> fuel/condensation.
>
> A new plastic tank is under $200.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:00 PM, robert via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
>> That's what it looks likealuminum, rounded corners, welded ends.I
>> have yet to actually measure it but I am guessing it it approx. 24" wide,
>> maybe 20" deep and 18" height..I think it is the original 20 gallon
>> tank that sits on an open wooden frame (ends on the wooden ledge(s) ) with
>> most of the bottom exposedthe bottom that is exposed looks fine but it
>> is what I can not see that I would like to inspect.it's the welded ends
>> on the bottom where the tank fits on the wooden frame that is my concern.
>>
>> The boat was in fresh water for its first 21 years.well
>> maintainedsince I have owned it, the fuel tank is in a salt water
>> environment but the tank has not been subjected to salt water on it.
>>
>> Empty it, remove it, clean it, inspect it.then make a decision about
>> replacing it.  I may have just decided on a plan.
>>
>> Will keep you informed.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 2017-09-08 4:08 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>>> The standard tanks are aluminum, rounded corners, welded ends. It it
>>> looks like that, then that is what it is. Otherwise there was such a thing
>>> as special customer orders. I looked at at 35 once that had a cylindrical
>>> monel tank. Don't know it it was original or not, but it appeared to have
>>> been there for a while.
>>>
>>> Up to you, but I would remove it, clean it really good, and inspect it
>>> very carefully before making a decision to replace it. If salt water has
>>> been kept away the condition might surprise you.
>>>
>>> Advice is worth exactly what you pay for it.
>>>
>>> Steve Thomas
>>> C MKIII
>>> Port Stanley, ON
>>>
>>> C
>>> Merritt Island, FL
>>>
>>>  robert via CnC-List  wrote:
>>> I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is
>>> metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the
>>> fuel tank was made from?
>>>
>>> Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and
>>> inspecting it and possibly replacing it.
>>>
>>> Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I
>>> obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?
>>>
>>> Any and all input greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Keep in mind that pitting may be on the inside from water in the
fuel/condensation.

A new plastic tank is under $200.

Dennis C.

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:00 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> That's what it looks likealuminum, rounded corners, welded ends.I
> have yet to actually measure it but I am guessing it it approx. 24" wide,
> maybe 20" deep and 18" height..I think it is the original 20 gallon
> tank that sits on an open wooden frame (ends on the wooden ledge(s) ) with
> most of the bottom exposedthe bottom that is exposed looks fine but it
> is what I can not see that I would like to inspect.it's the welded ends
> on the bottom where the tank fits on the wooden frame that is my concern.
>
> The boat was in fresh water for its first 21 years.well
> maintainedsince I have owned it, the fuel tank is in a salt water
> environment but the tank has not been subjected to salt water on it.
>
> Empty it, remove it, clean it, inspect it.then make a decision about
> replacing it.  I may have just decided on a plan.
>
> Will keep you informed.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
>
> On 2017-09-08 4:08 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
>
>> The standard tanks are aluminum, rounded corners, welded ends. It it
>> looks like that, then that is what it is. Otherwise there was such a thing
>> as special customer orders. I looked at at 35 once that had a cylindrical
>> monel tank. Don't know it it was original or not, but it appeared to have
>> been there for a while.
>>
>> Up to you, but I would remove it, clean it really good, and inspect it
>> very carefully before making a decision to replace it. If salt water has
>> been kept away the condition might surprise you.
>>
>> Advice is worth exactly what you pay for it.
>>
>> Steve Thomas
>> C MKIII
>> Port Stanley, ON
>>
>> C
>> Merritt Island, FL
>>
>>  robert via CnC-List  wrote:
>> I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is
>> metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the
>> fuel tank was made from?
>>
>> Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and
>> inspecting it and possibly replacing it.
>>
>> Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I
>> obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?
>>
>> Any and all input greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

The standard tanks are aluminum, rounded corners, welded ends. It it looks like 
that, then that is what it is. Otherwise there was such a thing as special 
customer orders. I looked at at 35 once that had a cylindrical monel tank. 
Don't know it it was original or not, but it appeared to have been there for a 
while. 

Up to you, but I would remove it, clean it really good, and inspect it very 
carefully before making a decision to replace it. If salt water has been kept 
away the condition might surprise you. 

Advice is worth exactly what you pay for it. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C
Merritt Island, FL

 robert via CnC-List  wrote: 
I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is 
metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the 
fuel tank was made from?

Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and 
inspecting it and possibly replacing it.

Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I 
obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?

Any and all input greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

You can see the level in Moeller tanks, not Plastimo.  The Plastimo tanks
are black.

Dennis C.

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 11:49 AM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I put a plastic tank in place of the original aluminum, which had corroded
> through.  Can't remember from whom I got it, but it was a standard 15 gal
> tank that fit right in.
>
> Plastic is nice because you can see the fluid level in the tank.
>
> Neil  Gallagher
> Weatherly 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
>
>
>
> On 9/8/2017 10:16 AM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
>
>> I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is
>> metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the fuel
>> tank was made from?
>>
>> Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and
>> inspecting it and possibly replacing it.
>>
>> Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I
>> obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?
>>
>> Any and all input greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

I put a plastic tank in place of the original aluminum, which had 
corroded through.  Can't remember from whom I got it, but it was a 
standard 15 gal tank that fit right in.


Plastic is nice because you can see the fluid level in the tank.

Neil  Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 9/8/2017 10:16 AM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is 
metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the 
fuel tank was made from?


Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and 
inspecting it and possibly replacing it.


Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would 
I obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?


Any and all input greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Rob,

Is it a "standard" size?  If so, Moeller and/or Plastimo may have a direct
replacement.

I replaced Touche's tank with a Plastimo.  Would have preferred a Moeller
but availability was an issue.  The Moeller tanks are translucent.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 9:16 AM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is
> metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the fuel
> tank was made from?
>
> Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and
> inspecting it and possibly replacing it.
>
> Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I
> obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?
>
> Any and all input greatly appreciated.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Sending unit

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I put one of these no moving parts fuel senders in to replace my old one when 
it failed.  Has worked fine since.  Dave

http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-211-2-wire-fuel-level-sender.aspx

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Sending unit

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I think the sending unit has a gasket (flat AFAIK) and it may have 
disintegrated or stiffened and broke after many years. This may be all you need 
to replace. I wouldn't worry about finding a exact replacement, just a soft, 
diesel fuel resistant flat rubber-like sheet of ~ 1/16" can be used. 


Cut hole in it for sender arm and after assuring that the holes are lined up 
between the unit and tank top, drive the screws through the 'gasket' and you 
have a well sealed unit at the tank.


C had an access port cut into the tank on my 36 XL (1995) about 6 inches in 
diameter. This was sealed with a similar, floppy piece of rubber-like stuff 
held between the access cover plate and the tank with ~ 6 sheet metal screws 
with a random but fixed pattern that must be followed!


I can imagine a worker just putting the plate over the hole and using a hand 
drill to put 6 holes around the circumference--not at any precise angular 
separation--"...just put them about evenly around the edge and seal the thing 
up..."--especially when the tank was new and had no fuel in it.


Probably the way I would do it--never mind putting the holes every 60 
degrees!!---symmetry is way over-rated!. :>)


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb 


cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Phygital via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Phygital 
Sent: Mon, Apr 10, 2017 5:38 pm
Subject: Stus-List Fuel Tank Sending unit



Hi,


I have a small leak emanating between the sending unit and the top of the fuel 
tank on my 83 Landfall 38. 


Space is especially tight on these LF's and I'm wondering if anyone has had the 
"pleasure" of changing the sending unit or replacing the gasket (assuming there 
is one) on the LF 38, and what's involved. I'm trying to find some pictures of 
what the specific LF (likely original) sending unit looks like but no luck. If 
you have any or suggestions on replacements it would much appreciated.


Space is quite tight and only about 5-6 inches of clearance from the cockpit 
sole. 


The boat is on the hard and I'd like to tackle this before launch.


Thanks a lot,



/John


On Apr 10, 2017, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:



Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1.  RE Gel coat Crazing Below the Waterline (Joseph Scott)
   2. Re:  Eye splice in used line (bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net)
   3. Re:  AIS and MMSI as well as marine radio use in Canada
  (Marek Dziedzic)
   4. Re:  Gel coat crazing below waterline (Doug Ellmore)
   5. Re:  Gel coat crazing below waterline (Marek Dziedzic)












___
CnC-List mailing list
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Sending unit

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Do yourself a favor.  For limited clearance work get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-85035-35-MicroDriver-Set/dp/B0062FSAVI

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Apr 10, 2017 at 4:37 PM, Phygital via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I have a small leak emanating between the sending unit and the top of the
> fuel tank on my 83 Landfall 38.
>
> Space is especially tight on these LF's and I'm wondering if anyone has
> had the "pleasure" of changing the sending unit or replacing the gasket
> (assuming there is one) on the LF 38, and what's involved. I'm trying to
> find some pictures of what the specific LF (likely original) sending unit
> looks like but no luck. If you have any or suggestions on replacements it
> would much appreciated.
>
> Space is quite tight and only about 5-6 inches of clearance from the
> cockpit sole.
>
> The boat is on the hard and I'd like to tackle this before launch.
>
> Thanks a lot,
>
> /John
>
> On Apr 10, 2017, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1.  RE Gel coat Crazing Below the Waterline (Joseph Scott)
>   2. Re:  Eye splice in used line (bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net)
>   3. Re:  AIS and MMSI as well as marine radio use in Canada
>  (Marek Dziedzic)
>   4. Re:  Gel coat crazing below waterline (Doug Ellmore)
>   5. Re:  Gel coat crazing below waterline (Marek Dziedzic)
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> ___
> CnC-List mailing list
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Sending unit

[Phygital via CnC-List]

Thanks Ed


John,
Cassidy's Free,
Landfall 38, Hull 155, Kingston Ontario


/John

> On Apr 10, 2017, at 5:47 PM, Edd Schillay  wrote:
> 
> John,
> 
> I did this on my 37+ two years ago — most likely, you’ll be using a Moeller 
> Sending Unit. See: 
> https://www.westmarine.com/buy/moeller--electric-fuel-gauge-sending-units--P006_180_003_536?recordNum=1
>  
> 
> I’m sure, if you hunt around, you’ll find a better price than at Worst 
> Marine. 
> 
> The big PITA when I did it was the 5 screw holes — they are not equally 
> distant from each other — the sender goes in one way and one way only. Before 
> you pull the old one off, make some marks/notes about which hole is where. 
> 
> Good luck. Enjoy the fumes. 
> 
> Lastly, for some list etiquette, please include your boat name, model and 
> homeport on your emails. We love to know who is where and what they sail. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 2017 C Northeast Rendezvous "Movie Trailer” (114 Views!!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 10, 2017, at 5:37 PM, Phygital via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi,
>> 
>> I have a small leak emanating between the sending unit and the top of the 
>> fuel tank on my 83 Landfall 38. 
>> 
>> Space is especially tight on these LF's and I'm wondering if anyone has had 
>> the "pleasure" of changing the sending unit or replacing the gasket 
>> (assuming there is one) on the LF 38, and what's involved. I'm trying to 
>> find some pictures of what the specific LF (likely original) sending unit 
>> looks like but no luck. If you have any or suggestions on replacements it 
>> would much appreciated.
>> 
>> Space is quite tight and only about 5-6 inches of clearance from the cockpit 
>> sole. 
>> 
>> The boat is on the hard and I'd like to tackle this before launch.
>> 
>> Thanks a lot,
>> 
>> /John
>> 
> 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Sending unit

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

John,

I did this on my 37+ two years ago — most likely, you’ll be using a Moeller 
Sending Unit. See: 
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/moeller--electric-fuel-gauge-sending-units--P006_180_003_536?recordNum=1
 

 

I’m sure, if you hunt around, you’ll find a better price than at Worst Marine. 

The big PITA when I did it was the 5 screw holes — they are not equally distant 
from each other — the sender goes in one way and one way only. Before you pull 
the old one off, make some marks/notes about which hole is where. 

Good luck. Enjoy the fumes. 

Lastly, for some list etiquette, please include your boat name, model and 
homeport on your emails. We love to know who is where and what they sail. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 


2017 C Northeast Rendezvous "Movie Trailer” 
 (114 Views!!)





> On Apr 10, 2017, at 5:37 PM, Phygital via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have a small leak emanating between the sending unit and the top of the 
> fuel tank on my 83 Landfall 38. 
> 
> Space is especially tight on these LF's and I'm wondering if anyone has had 
> the "pleasure" of changing the sending unit or replacing the gasket (assuming 
> there is one) on the LF 38, and what's involved. I'm trying to find some 
> pictures of what the specific LF (likely original) sending unit looks like 
> but no luck. If you have any or suggestions on replacements it would much 
> appreciated.
> 
> Space is quite tight and only about 5-6 inches of clearance from the cockpit 
> sole. 
> 
> The boat is on the hard and I'd like to tackle this before launch.
> 
> Thanks a lot,
> 
> /John
> 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Cleaning/Removal

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I vote for plastic, even if you have to do some cutting. My 1980 boat had
the original aluminum tank which worked great until, at the end of last year
when I noticed a bit of red liquid in the area around the tank. It has now
been recycled somewhere because it had many small pinholes in its bottom.
Just got the new one (Mueller) mounted yesterday - not at all fun, but much
safer.

Gary

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian
Morrison via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2017 11:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Morrison 
Subject: Stus-List Fuel Tank Cleaning/Removal

Hello,

I have a 1979 C 34 with the original aluminum fuel tank. I've recently had
some engine shutdown issues that I've traced to my fuel tank. Ideally I
would like to replace the tank with a plastic one. That was recommended by
the surveyor when I purchased the boat. The problem is access. The tank is
20 gallons and is too large to remove. On the other side, I would like to
replace it with a similar size tank. The problems, 1. how to remove the
original and 2. how to get the replacement in. 

The other option I'm looking at to address the fouling issue is to clean out
the tank. I just read an article in Practical Sailor on using a power
washer. Any suggestions on that method or others for cleaning out the crud
in the bottom of the tank would be appreciated. 

Thank you.

Brian
S/V Rekofa
1979 C 34
Fells Point, MD

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Cleaning/Removal

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Brian:

I have a 1981 C 34. I replaced the original tank with a plastic tank by
Moeller. The old tank came out the seat hatch although I did cut the fill
pipe a bit. It was approximately 20 gallons. Measured the old one, went on
the Moeller web site and found what was as close to an exact match as you
could want. Took the model number and ordered through Amazon. The new tank
fit perfectly including with the fill pipe and vent being in basically the
same positions as the original. It was like Moeller copied a widely used
tank. Good luck.

Ed
C 34 Briarpatch
New Orleans


On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 10:52 AM Brian Morrison via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I have a 1979 C 34 with the original aluminum fuel tank. I've recently
> had some engine shutdown issues that I've traced to my fuel tank. Ideally I
> would like to replace the tank with a plastic one. That was recommended by
> the surveyor when I purchased the boat. The problem is access. The tank is
> 20 gallons and is too large to remove. On the other side, I would like to
> replace it with a similar size tank. The problems, 1. how to remove the
> original and 2. how to get the replacement in.
>
> The other option I'm looking at to address the fouling issue is to clean
> out the tank. I just read an article in Practical Sailor on using a power
> washer. Any suggestions on that method or others for cleaning out the crud
> in the bottom of the tank would be appreciated.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Brian
> S/V Rekofa
> 1979 C 34
> Fells Point, MD
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[allen via CnC-List]

Finally resolved fuel tank problem.  I had local vendor Howdy Bailey (Norfolk, 
VA) construct an all new replica out of 3/15 x .160 Marine grade aluminum.

He delivered to Septima Saturday and we maneuvered it down into the aft cabin 
and into its matching tray.  Perfect fit.  We'll hook it up this week after I 
get the material I'm going to use to isolate tank from the tray.

Here's pictures of old tank.  Corrosion begins where tank sat in salty 
condensate. Yes, we drilled a drainage hole to get rid of condensation. 
 
 
 
 
 
Allen Miles
S/V Septima
C 30-2
Hampton, VA




From: allen 
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2016 5:41 PM
To: Robert Boyer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank


No baffles.  Now that I have to check.  When I had the old diesel removed and 
filtered,  I believe Captain Allen of KleenFuel said that there was/were 
baffles.

I see that Florida Marine listed 1/8" and 1/4" thickness stock in their tanks 
and that 1/4" seems like a wise upgrade.  Good thinking.

Thanks again,

Allen Miles


From: Robert Boyer 
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2016 3:45 PM
To: allen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank


My tank was also 0.090 inches thick.  I made the replacement tank 1/4 inch 
thick because I never want to change out the tank again!  My tank was built in 
1983, same as my boat.  My tank had NO baffles.


Bob

Bob Boyer 
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

On May 22, 2016, at 3:38 PM, allen <allenmi...@earthlink.net> wrote:


  Actually Bob my tank has a sticker saying Woodstock Rainbow Mfg of Woodstock 
Ontario made the tank. The phone number listed is now a fax line. The plate 
says they used .091 gauge aluminum back in 02/89.  What I don't know yet is the 
depth and bottom shape of model 1219 model A nor internal baffles, etc.  The 
tray that carried the tank was shallow outboard and deeper inboard.  That seems 
to rule out most of the tanks suggested so far.

  Thanks for the suggestions.

  Allen
  s/v Septima
  C 30-2




  From: Robert Boyer 
  Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2016 11:25 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: allen 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank


  Florida marine tanks made the original & have the drawings.  They produce 
them fairly quickly too.


  Bob

  Bob Boyer 
  S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
  Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
  Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
  Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

  On May 21, 2016, at 10:32 AM, allen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:


Septima's aluminum 18 gallon fuel tank is shot.  Before I have one 
fabricated locally, do we know of any source that might stock NOS?  
SouthShoreYachts didn't list any.

Allen Miles
s/v Septima
C 30-2
Hampton, VA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Ditto.

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 21, 2016, at 10:24 AM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Allen,
> 
> When my aluminum tank was shot, I replaced it with a plastic tank:
> 
> http://moellermarine.com/product-category/fuel-containment/permanent-fuel-tanks/less-than-20-gals/
> 
> Something to consider, it's worked great for me.
> 
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
> 
> 
> 
>> On 5/21/2016 10:32 AM, allen via CnC-List wrote:
>> Septima's aluminum 18 gallon fuel tank is shot.  Before I have one 
>> fabricated locally, do we know of any source that might stock NOS?  
>> SouthShoreYachts didn't list any.
>>  
>> Allen Miles
>> s/v Septima
>> C 30-2
>> Hampton, VA
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Florida marine tanks made the original & have the drawings.  They produce them 
fairly quickly too.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On May 21, 2016, at 10:32 AM, allen via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Septima's aluminum 18 gallon fuel tank is shot.  Before I have one fabricated 
> locally, do we know of any source that might stock NOS?  SouthShoreYachts 
> didn't list any.
>  
> Allen Miles
> s/v Septima
> C 30-2
> Hampton, VA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Allen,

When my aluminum tank was shot, I replaced it with a plastic tank:

http://moellermarine.com/product-category/fuel-containment/permanent-fuel-tanks/less-than-20-gals/

Something to consider, it's worked great for me.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 5/21/2016 10:32 AM, allen via CnC-List wrote:
Septima's aluminum 18 gallon fuel tank is shot.  Before I have one 
fabricated locally, do we know of any source that might stock NOS?  
SouthShoreYachts didn't list any.

Allen Miles
s/v Septima
C 30-2
Hampton, VA


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

The quadrant is only an inch above the tank on a LF 38 and there is no way I'd 
ever consider a bladder tank in such a precarious position on my boat.  A 
little bit of rubbing from the cable and you would have diesel fuel all over 
the place.

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame

 On May 3, 2015, at 12:34 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 You might want to explore a bladder tank. 
 
 I know we boaters have a serious mindset towards hard tanks but diesel 
 bladder tanks are quite reliable and can be custom made. 
 
 Can you cut the top off your existing tank, patch the holes with JB Weld or 
 similar then drop in a custom bladder tank?  The existing tank would then 
 become a containment for the bladder.
 
 Dennis C.
 Touché 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On May 3, 2015, at 9:17 AM, Phil via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 My fuel tank on my LF 38 began leaking pretty badly recently.   I pumped out 
 all of the diesel.  What are my options for replacement?  Should I replace 
 with a stock sized tank or go another route?  Is this something I can do 
 myself? 
 
 -Phil James
 1982 CC LF 38
 Annapolis, MD
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I was about to respond that the original tank on my 38 was of a size that it
could be slid over to stbd (once the straps attaching it to a wood platform
were removed) and rotated so it came out through the lid on the cockpit
locker. Then I looks at Wally's photos. All I can say is #%$@ ! And good
luck.


Rick Brass
Imzadi  CC 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Phil via
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2015 10:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

My fuel tank on my LF 38 began leaking pretty badly recently.   I pumped out
all of the diesel.  What are my options for replacement?  Should I replace
with a stock sized tank or go another route?  Is this something I can do
myself? 

-Phil James
1982 CC LF 38
Annapolis, MD
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I'm sure Wally will offer a few words when he is next on his email but he
did document this back when he did it to his LF 38 here:
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/fuel/index.htm

Ken H.

On 3 May 2015 at 11:17, Phil via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 My fuel tank on my LF 38 began leaking pretty badly recently.   I pumped
 out all of the diesel.  What are my options for replacement?  Should I
 replace with a stock sized tank or go another route?  Is this something I
 can do myself?

 -Phil James
 1982 CC LF 38
 Annapolis, MD
 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Phil:

I just did this replacement last winter in my LF38.  I had my boat yard do it 
but I could have done it myself if I had enough time.  The partial bulkhead 
just in front of the tank has to be completely removed--a Fein saw works great 
for this!  Then you have to remove the water heater and part of the bulkhead 
behind the water heater--this creates the space to remove the old tank and put 
in a new one.  The tank can be purchased from Florida Marine Tanks in Henderson 
NC and they can go by the numbers on the tank's nameplate.  The original tank 
is only 0.090 inches thick--i upgraded to 1/4 inch for the replacement (about 
$500) because I never want to do it again.  Of course, the bulkhead in front of 
the tank has to go back in--we made a new one from a thick fiberglass panel and 
glassed it in place.  (I have pictures on my blog of the replacement process.)

There is a lot more to this than meets the eye since there is a lot of wiring 
that has to be removed and reinstalled as well.

I also ran into broken motor mounts and a loose prop strut that had to be fixed 
at the same time.

If you have a reputable boat yard do this work, you are looking at $10k plus 
the cost of the tank.  Hartge's Yacht Yard in Galesville did my replacement.

You welcome to come and look at my installation sometime.  I live in Annapolis 
but keep my boat is Galesville.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame

 On May 3, 2015, at 10:17 AM, Phil via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 My fuel tank on my LF 38 began leaking pretty badly recently.   I pumped out 
 all of the diesel.  What are my options for replacement?  Should I replace 
 with a stock sized tank or go another route?  Is this something I can do 
 myself? 
 
 -Phil James
 1982 CC LF 38
 Annapolis, MD
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

You might want to explore a bladder tank. 

I know we boaters have a serious mindset towards hard tanks but diesel bladder 
tanks are quite reliable and can be custom made. 

Can you cut the top off your existing tank, patch the holes with JB Weld or 
similar then drop in a custom bladder tank?  The existing tank would then 
become a containment for the bladder.

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

 On May 3, 2015, at 9:17 AM, Phil via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 My fuel tank on my LF 38 began leaking pretty badly recently.   I pumped out 
 all of the diesel.  What are my options for replacement?  Should I replace 
 with a stock sized tank or go another route?  Is this something I can do 
 myself? 
 
 -Phil James
 1982 CC LF 38
 Annapolis, MD
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank access port

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Moellermarine manufactures plastic tanks. $200+\- at Amazon and do away
with

On Friday, January 23, 2015, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Hello All,

 I have an '89 30 MKII.  It has what I believe to be the original fuel
 tank. The tank has two access ports. They look like they may have been
 added, but could be original, not sure.

 Both ports are held closed with machine screws. The aft port does not leak
 and I have yet to remove it.

 The forward access port weeps fuel.  I removed the cover and found that it
 appears to have been sealed with a black substance I'm guessing is permatex.

 I'm going to empty the tank and try to clean it without opening the aft
 port (as it does not leak).

 The fuel looks OK and I don't see anything real nasty but there is some
 black gunk at the bottom. So I'm gonna change it all and clean the tank by
 hand.

 Question is: how and what should I use to re-seal the access port?

 Any hints would be greatly appreciated

 Rob Gallagher
 HANUMAN


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank access port

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Get some diesel-resistant gasket material from an auto store and make a
gasket.  Done deal.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville,LA
On Jan 23, 2015 6:06 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Calypso’s fuel tank inspection ports use a cut to size flexible fuel
 resistant gasket, an aluminum sheet metal cover, and is through bolted.



 It has been 12 years since it was installed but IIRC the through bolt
 fasteners are held in place with a split (1/2 dia each piece) aluminum
 ring.  I do not recall if the fasteners were welded in place, bonded in
 place, or are a type of captured nut.  I do recall that installation
 required a medium amount for mechanical ability but well within most sail
 boat owner’s skills.  The assembly had not leaked as of the last time I
 checked.



 McMaster Carr and several other sources sell various types of captured or
 similar fasteners that would be easily adapted to something similar for
 your tank.  The ½ dia. rings would likely work well if fabricated out of
 either aluminum, G10 (epoxy board), or other fuel resistant plastic.  The
 1/2 rings do not need to be stout as they only hold the fasteners well
 enough to be tightened (and loosened later).



 The cover should be thick enough not to distort. IIRC Calypso’s is at
 least 1/8” but likely ¼”.  The bolts have fender washers under the head
 to spread out the clamping pressure.  IIRC the gasket was at least 1” wide
 to provide plenty of sealing surface.



 If you decide to through bolt your inspection port be very careful when
 drilling the larger holes in the tank.  Capturing the debris coming off the
 drill bit is important.  We used a combo of a shop vac and paper placed
 inside the empty tank shaped to keep any loose filings from getting lost.



 Martin

 Calypso

 1971 CC 43

 Seattle


 [image: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert
 Gallagher via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Friday, January 23, 2015 2:57 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Subject:* Stus-List Fuel tank access port



 Hello All,



 I have an '89 30 MKII.  It has what I believe to be the original fuel
 tank. The tank has two access ports. They look like they may have been
 added, but could be original, not sure.



 Both ports are held closed with machine screws. The aft port does not leak
 and I have yet to remove it.



 The forward access port weeps fuel.  I removed the cover and found that it
 appears to have been sealed with a black substance I'm guessing is permatex.



 I'm going to empty the tank and try to clean it without opening the aft
 port (as it does not leak).



 The fuel looks OK and I don't see anything real nasty but there is some
 black gunk at the bottom. So I'm gonna change it all and clean the tank by
 hand.



 Question is: how and what should I use to re-seal the access port?



 Any hints would be greatly appreciated



 Rob Gallagher

 HANUMAN

 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank access port

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Calypso’s fuel tank inspection ports use a cut to size flexible fuel resistant 
gasket, an aluminum sheet metal cover, and is through bolted.

It has been 12 years since it was installed but IIRC the through bolt fasteners 
are held in place with a split (1/2 dia each piece) aluminum ring.  I do not 
recall if the fasteners were welded in place, bonded in place, or are a type of 
captured nut.  I do recall that installation required a medium amount for 
mechanical ability but well within most sail boat owner’s skills.  The assembly 
had not leaked as of the last time I checked.

McMaster Carr and several other sources sell various types of captured or 
similar fasteners that would be easily adapted to something similar for your 
tank.  The ½ dia. rings would likely work well if fabricated out of either 
aluminum, G10 (epoxy board), or other fuel resistant plastic.  The 1/2 rings do 
not need to be stout as they only hold the fasteners well enough to be 
tightened (and loosened later).

The cover should be thick enough not to distort. IIRC Calypso’s is at least 
1/8” but likely ¼”.  The bolts have fender washers under the head to spread out 
the clamping pressure.  IIRC the gasket was at least 1” wide to provide plenty 
of sealing surface.

If you decide to through bolt your inspection port be very careful when 
drilling the larger holes in the tank.  Capturing the debris coming off the 
drill bit is important.  We used a combo of a shop vac and paper placed inside 
the empty tank shaped to keep any loose filings from getting lost.

Martin
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle

[Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
Gallagher via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2015 2:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fuel tank access port

Hello All,

I have an '89 30 MKII.  It has what I believe to be the original fuel tank. The 
tank has two access ports. They look like they may have been added, but could 
be original, not sure.

Both ports are held closed with machine screws. The aft port does not leak and 
I have yet to remove it.

The forward access port weeps fuel.  I removed the cover and found that it 
appears to have been sealed with a black substance I'm guessing is permatex.

I'm going to empty the tank and try to clean it without opening the aft port 
(as it does not leak).

The fuel looks OK and I don't see anything real nasty but there is some black 
gunk at the bottom. So I'm gonna change it all and clean the tank by hand.

Question is: how and what should I use to re-seal the access port?

Any hints would be greatly appreciated

Rob Gallagher
HANUMAN
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank sender replacement

[Rich Knowles via CnC-List]

Mike: they are pretty standard and any sender  designed for boat use should 
work. See: http://us.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=5707.

I recently repaired a sender by reattaching the end of the wire resistance 
winding to the terminal post. Not a hard job that you might want to try before 
investing in a new sender.  I have a picture I can send you if you need one.  
Calibration is accomplished by bending the pickup arm assembly. They are a 
pretty blunt instrument. 

Rich

 On May 8, 2014, at 12:06, Fair, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 I have tank senders in my water and fuel tanks feeding a gage at the nav 
 station. The Fuel sender is failing and I want to replace it. However I can’t 
 find an markings on the unit to determine the Ohm range it works with.
  
 Is there some way to measure the resistance of the working sender to 
 determine which sender to order? I do have a mulitmeter.
  
  
 Thanks,
  
 Mike Fair
  
 Cio Cio San
 Padnaram, Ma
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank sender replacement

[plattski via CnC-List]

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

 Original message 
From: Rich Knowles via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date:05/08/2014  11:34 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Fair, Mike mike.f...@mckesson.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank sender replacement 

Mike: they are pretty standard and any sender  designed for boat use should 
work. See: http://us.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=5707.

I recently repaired a sender by reattaching the end of the wire resistance 
winding to the terminal post. Not a hard job that you might want to try before 
investing in a new sender.  I have a picture I can send you if you need one.  
Calibration is accomplished by bending the pickup arm assembly. They are a 
pretty blunt instrument. 

Rich

On May 8, 2014, at 12:06, Fair, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

I have tank senders in my water and fuel tanks feeding a gage at the nav 
station. The Fuel sender is failing and I want to replace it. However I can’t 
find an markings on the unit to determine the Ohm range it works with.
 
Is there some way to measure the resistance of the working sender to determine 
which sender to order? I do have a mulitmeter.
 
 
Thanks,
 
Mike Fair
 
Cio Cio San
Padnaram, Ma
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank sender replacement

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

If I recall correctly, you’re probably looking for a 270 ohm sender.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 8, 2014, at 10:06 AM, Fair, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 I have tank senders in my water and fuel tanks feeding a gage at the nav 
 station. The Fuel sender is failing and I want to replace it. However I can’t 
 find an markings on the unit to determine the Ohm range it works with.
  
 Is there some way to measure the resistance of the working sender to 
 determine which sender to order? I do have a mulitmeter.
  
  
 Thanks,
  
 Mike Fair
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Rick Taillieu]

Mark,

Once you decide on which tank you want, make up a cardboard box mock-up of
it to make sure you'll be able to get it into the spot where you want to
mount it.  I did that when I put a holding tank in my 25.  I was lucky and
the tank I wanted just fit through the opening under the V-berth.


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 CC 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark
Bodnar
Sent: February-11-14 18:04
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank


Anyone know if the Moeller tanks already come with a fuel gauge/sensor?
I can buy the kit with the electronic sensor and the return line - but I'm
happy to T the return line into the fuel feed or into the vent line
- but if I need to buy a fuel sensor anyway they I will likely buy the kit
(of course I'll also need an electronic gauge as well).


As for repair or replace - I guess it makes sense as I think about it - a
repair might buy me 2-10yrs - and failure could be a horrible mess.
A new plastic tank will last longer than I will and won't ever be a point of
concern.
Don't think I'll bother having a new custom made aluminum tank - one of the
pre-fab Moeller tanks will work with a bit of effort.

Next time I'm down at the boat I need to do some measurements - make sure
everything will fit and figure out how to fabricate a new base and maybe
fiberglass in some edge frames.

Mark

-
   Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana

On 11/02/2014 4:44 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:
 Thanks Wal. Other than the heating issue, which shouldn't be a problem as
the fuel gets mixed with incoming fuel from the tank, many fuel filter
assemblies have an in port for the return line.

 Rich

 On Feb 11, 2014, at 15:51, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote:

 Yes.  It works fine.

 http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/fuel/index.htm


 Rich wrote:
 Has anyone tried teeing the fuel return line into the fuel feed line
before the filter?  Just wondering??

 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album 
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album 
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com



___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3697/7087 - Release Date: 02/12/14


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Dr. Mark Bodnar]

Thanks for that Rick.  I was was thinking about just measuring it - but 
way better to mock up a real shape.
I'm pretty sure I can drop the tank in - my bigger job will be building 
new supports underneath to hold it in place.
I will also try to mock up the holding tank - as getting that into the 
v-berth will be tricky!


Mark

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 12/02/2014 4:38 PM, Rick Taillieu wrote:

Mark,

Once you decide on which tank you want, make up a cardboard box mock-up of
it to make sure you'll be able to get it into the spot where you want to
mount it.  I did that when I put a holding tank in my 25.  I was lucky and
the tank I wanted just fit through the opening under the V-berth.


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 CC 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark
Bodnar
Sent: February-11-14 18:04
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank


Anyone know if the Moeller tanks already come with a fuel gauge/sensor?
I can buy the kit with the electronic sensor and the return line - but I'm
happy to T the return line into the fuel feed or into the vent line
- but if I need to buy a fuel sensor anyway they I will likely buy the kit
(of course I'll also need an electronic gauge as well).


As for repair or replace - I guess it makes sense as I think about it - a
repair might buy me 2-10yrs - and failure could be a horrible mess.
A new plastic tank will last longer than I will and won't ever be a point of
concern.
Don't think I'll bother having a new custom made aluminum tank - one of the
pre-fab Moeller tanks will work with a bit of effort.

Next time I'm down at the boat I need to do some measurements - make sure
everything will fit and figure out how to fabricate a new base and maybe
fiberglass in some edge frames.

Mark

-
Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana

On 11/02/2014 4:44 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:

Thanks Wal. Other than the heating issue, which shouldn't be a problem as

the fuel gets mixed with incoming fuel from the tank, many fuel filter
assemblies have an in port for the return line.

Rich


On Feb 11, 2014, at 15:51, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote:

Yes.  It works fine.

http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/fuel/index.htm


Rich wrote:

Has anyone tried teeing the fuel return line into the fuel feed line

before the filter?  Just wondering??

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com



___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3697/7087 - Release Date: 02/12/14


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com




___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Della Barba, Joe]

Balance and not sending it overboard. Some airplanes with main and tip tanks 
only return fuel to the main tanks. So you need to burn off the mains for a 
while first. If you use the tip tanks first the return fuel goes right over the 
side if the mains are full.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Cotton
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 11:24 PM
To: j...@dellabarba.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

In aviation it's called fuel management. It's more concerned with aircraft 
balance.

On Monday, February 10, 2014 7:07 PM, Joe Della Barba 
j...@dellabarba.commailto:j...@dellabarba.com wrote:
Nah – you T the fuel return to the vent line. You need the hot fuel to dump 
back in the tank, not recycle right back to the engine.
As for the returns on multiple tanks , I cough wink read about a guy 
delivering a Viking motoryacht that looked aft and saw a trail of fuel. Some 
research into the fuel valves showed fuel from A going to B when B was full 
already. Some airplanes do this too. If you don’t use the tanks in the correct 
order you will be venting a lot of $6/gal fuel over the side.

Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.commailto:j...@dellabarba.com
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 8:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

 Has anyone tried teeing the fuel return line into the fuel feed line before 
 the filter?

IIRC that is not a good idea.  Many diesel engines return more fuel than they 
use.  Some of the extra fuel is used for cooling the injectors.

I have a vague memory of a story regarding having two fuel tanks and one fuel 
return line.  The result was one empty tank and one over filled.

Martin
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle

[cid:image001.png@01CF2712.F3DC7640]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 5:52 PM
To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

Has anyone tried teeing the fuel return line into the fuel feed line before the 
filter?  Just wondering??

Rich

On Feb 10, 2014, at 20:03, Peter Fell 
prf...@gmail.commailto:prf...@gmail.com wrote:
There is a kit you buy that provides the return line fitting on the flange of 
the fuel sending unit  I think they only sell it with the sending unit 
included: 
http://ca.binnacle.com/p6463/MOELLER-%2335724-10-DIESEL-RETURN-KIT/product_info.html

If you can’t get the flange and return fitting separately, I’d just put the 
other sending unit up for sale on craigslist. Someone out there needs a new 
sending unit.

Check out the Moeller site for more info.

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.comhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com

inline: image001.png___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Rick Brass]

Mark;

 

One of my many boat projects is to install a second fuel tank for increased
range. My local metal fab shop can build a custom stainless diesel tank for
about $250. The tank will fit into the area below the steering quadrant and
in the bottom of the boat. Five sided tank about 30wide by 12 deep in the
middle and 6 deep on either end and 18 front to back on the centerline and
10 font to back on the ends.  Think of the shape of a claw anchor and you
sort of get the idea of the shape of the tank.

 

You may be overestimating the cost of a custom tank.

 

Anyway, when you reinstall the new tank make sure it has rubber pads under
the tank (I used 6x6x1/4 gasket material, $1.99 each at Lowes) and rubber
strap material between the tank and the hold down straps. 

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark
Bodnar
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 5:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

 


I'm not adverse to replacing the tank - but looking online so far I can't
find a replacement that matches the shape or the fill holes.
The CS tank is 19Gal - and approx 10 wide, 48 long and 6 deep and one
end, 12 deep at the other -- a pre-fab new tank would likely require a new
mounting set up. Or an expensive custom made tank.

I need to examine the tank more closely - but the only pin-hole is on the
top of the tank where the steel bracket was holding the tank in place -
otherwise with was well supported up out of the bilge and looks to be good.

If it's just the one spot from metal contact and the rest of the tank is
stable then I might try the POR 15 tank seal product. 

Need to drain out the diesel and clean it to see what I'm dealing with.

Mark



-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-
 
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 10/02/2014 6:02 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:

Mark:  I think I'd not mess with a 30+ year old old tank, but get a new one.
If there is one hole, another one is waiting to appear. 

Rich


On Feb 10, 2014, at 17:41, Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com wrote:

Are you opposed to a new tank?  Granted, a pinhole leak on the top may not
indicate more problems but it would make me think about the overall
integrity of the tank.

One of the first things I did when I bought Touche' was to replace the fuel
tank.  I replaced it again when I repowered to a diesel.

 

Many tanks are standard sizes.  Check the Moeller site to see if they have
one that will fit.  Then go shopping online for the best price.  For
instance, one to fit a 35-1 is $153 new and $131 used on Amazon.  That seems
like a cheap price for the peace of mind that the tank is good.

One of our listers just replaced his tank for what I thought was a pretty
decent price.  Maybe he'll chime in.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 2:03 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar drbod...@accesswave.ca
wrote:

Well, it was a cold weekend, but I wanted to check the boat, make sure there
was no water freezing up inside, and if I'm going to drive down there then I
may as well get at a job or 2.

Stripped off the last bit of upholstery - now I can get all the cushions
re-covered

Then I tried to remove the fuel tank.  Let's just say the tank was not in
total agreement with my plan, and as such the process was a little more
violent that I had hoped for - I had to cut the inlet and vent pipe (but I
figure that 1986 hoses are likely due for replacement - so it was not a huge
loss.

Once I had everything disconnected I lifted the mostly empty tank out of the
lazerette - and saw a small pin-hole leak stream out on the top of the tank.
Right where one of the metal tank strap tighteners was resting - clearly the
contrasting metal had corroded a small hole.
Otherwise the tank looks good.  Just dirty.

I need to clean the tank up to get a better look - but I'm wondering how
this should be repaired.
Given I wanted to clean out the tank and install an access hatch (but near
the other end of the tank) - should I get a small patch weld?
Or did I read somewhere that a fuel tank can be lined with epoxy.
(http://www.sailfeed.com/2012/07/one-way-to-repair-leaking-aluminum-fuel-tan
ks/) 
I feel like I could even just drill out the hole, tap it and screw in a
small bolt with a gasket.

I'm stiff after a few hours in the lazerette fighting with the fuel tank -
but the new boat shine has not worn off yet!


Mark

-- 

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Rick Brass]

If it is diesel, it should have the 4th fitting for the return line.

 

I helped a buddy put in a new tank and he used a gasoline tank, with the
diesel return T-ed into the vent line. Then he discovered that if he fills
the tank while the engine is still running all of the returning fuel gets
spit out of the vent line and into the water alongside. 

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark
Bodnar
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 6:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

 


Looking at the Moeller tanks leads to a new question - maybe my Volvo diesel
is a bit different - but my original tank has 4 connections
1 - fuel fill
1 - vent line (goes out to the stern)
1 - line feeds to the fuel filter
and 1 line that I assume is a return feed from the engine

But the Moeller tanks don't appear to have the 4th return feed???

Does the tank need a specific fitting or extra fitting?

Mark



-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-
 

 

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Gary Nylander]

I think that was my experience on a Nauticat motor sailor. Two side tanks 
(about 75 gal each) and a valve which selected which tank you were picking the 
fuel up from. Normally, gravity would determine where the extra fuel would go 
and it would usually go back to where it came from, but we were motor sailing 
and on a pretty good heel. Gravity sent the fuel back to the low tank when we 
were picking it up from the high one. Ran out. Had to do some replumbing. 

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rich Knowles 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 9:04 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank


  Hmmm. Seems that if more fuel comes back it would pressurize the feed line 
and balance with fuel in the tank. ?

  Rich

  On Feb 10, 2014, at 21:57, Martin DeYoung mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com wrote:


 Has anyone tried teeing the fuel return line into the fuel feed line 
before the filter?



IIRC that is not a good idea.  Many diesel engines return more fuel than 
they use.  Some of the extra fuel is used for cooling the injectors.



I have a vague memory of a story regarding having two fuel tanks and one 
fuel return line.  The result was one empty tank and one over filled.



Martin

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle


image001.png



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich 
Knowles
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 5:52 PM
To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank



Has anyone tried teeing the fuel return line into the fuel feed line before 
the filter?  Just wondering??

Rich


On Feb 10, 2014, at 20:03, Peter Fell prf...@gmail.com wrote:

  There is a kit you buy that provides the return line fitting on the 
flange of the fuel sending unit  I think they only sell it with the sending 
unit included: 
http://ca.binnacle.com/p6463/MOELLER-%2335724-10-DIESEL-RETURN-KIT/product_info.html



  If you can’t get the flange and return fitting separately, I’d just put 
the other sending unit up for sale on craigslist. Someone out there needs a new 
sending unit.



  Check out the Moeller site for more info.

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com



--


  ___
  This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Gary Nylander]

Small Yanmars don't have a return line - it goes back into the engine filter, 
not to the tank.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Brass 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 11:11 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank


  If it is diesel, it should have the 4th fitting for the return line.

   

  I helped a buddy put in a new tank and he used a gasoline tank, with the 
diesel return T-ed into the vent line. Then he discovered that if he fills the 
tank while the engine is still running all of the returning fuel gets spit out 
of the vent line and into the water alongside. 

   

  Rick Brass

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark 
Bodnar
  Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 6:50 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

   


  Looking at the Moeller tanks leads to a new question - maybe my Volvo diesel 
is a bit different - but my original tank has 4 connections
  1 - fuel fill
  1 - vent line (goes out to the stern)
  1 - line feeds to the fuel filter
  and 1 line that I assume is a return feed from the engine

  But the Moeller tanks don't appear to have the 4th return feed???

  Does the tank need a specific fitting or extra fitting?

  Mark



-  Dr. Mark BodnarB.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)Bedford 
Chiropractic-  



--


  ___
  This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Wally Bryant]

Yes.  It works fine.

http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/fuel/index.htm


Rich wrote:

Has anyone tried teeing the fuel return line into the fuel feed line before the 
filter?  Just wondering??



___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Wally Bryant]

That's a good idea. Why didn't you mention that ten years ago?

Joe Della Barba wrote:

Nah – you T the fuel return to the vent line. snip



___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Rich Knowles]

Thanks Wal. Other than the heating issue, which shouldn't be a problem as the 
fuel gets mixed with incoming fuel from the tank, many fuel filter assemblies 
have an in port for the return line. 

Rich

 On Feb 11, 2014, at 15:51, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote:
 
 Yes.  It works fine.
 
 http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/fuel/index.htm
 
 
 Rich wrote:
 Has anyone tried teeing the fuel return line into the fuel feed line before 
 the filter?  Just wondering??
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Dr. Mark Bodnar]

Anyone know if the Moeller tanks already come with a fuel gauge/sensor?
I can buy the kit with the electronic sensor and the return line - but 
I'm happy to T the return line into the fuel feed or into the vent line 
- but if I need to buy a fuel sensor anyway they I will likely buy the 
kit (of course I'll also need an electronic gauge as well).



As for repair or replace - I guess it makes sense as I think about it - 
a repair might buy me 2-10yrs - and failure could be a horrible mess.
A new plastic tank will last longer than I will and won't ever be a 
point of concern.
Don't think I'll bother having a new custom made aluminum tank - one of 
the pre-fab Moeller tanks will work with a bit of effort.


Next time I'm down at the boat I need to do some measurements - make 
sure everything will fit and figure out how to fabricate a new base and 
maybe fiberglass in some edge frames.


Mark

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 11/02/2014 4:44 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:

Thanks Wal. Other than the heating issue, which shouldn't be a problem as the 
fuel gets mixed with incoming fuel from the tank, many fuel filter assemblies 
have an in port for the return line.

Rich


On Feb 11, 2014, at 15:51, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote:

Yes.  It works fine.

http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/fuel/index.htm


Rich wrote:

Has anyone tried teeing the fuel return line into the fuel feed line before the 
filter?  Just wondering??


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com




___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Ed Levert]

Mark

Then Moeller tanks come with a sending (sensor) unit included. The return line 
was plumbed to the vent line before I bought the boat.

Ed
CC 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans, La.  


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Peter Fell]

The Moeller tanks come with the fuel sending unit.  The unit that came with 
mine works fine with the Faria fuel gauge installed on my boat.



-Original Message- 
From: Dr. Mark Bodnar

Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 2:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank


Anyone know if the Moeller tanks already come with a fuel gauge/sensor?
I can buy the kit with the electronic sensor and the return line - but
I'm happy to T the return line into the fuel feed or into the vent line
- but if I need to buy a fuel sensor anyway they I will likely buy the
kit (of course I'll also need an electronic gauge as well).


As for repair or replace - I guess it makes sense as I think about it -
a repair might buy me 2-10yrs - and failure could be a horrible mess.
A new plastic tank will last longer than I will and won't ever be a
point of concern.
Don't think I'll bother having a new custom made aluminum tank - one of
the pre-fab Moeller tanks will work with a bit of effort.

Next time I'm down at the boat I need to do some measurements - make
sure everything will fit and figure out how to fabricate a new base and
maybe fiberglass in some edge frames.

Mark

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 11/02/2014 4:44 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:
Thanks Wal. Other than the heating issue, which shouldn't be a problem as 
the fuel gets mixed with incoming fuel from the tank, many fuel filter 
assemblies have an in port for the return line.


Rich


On Feb 11, 2014, at 15:51, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote:

Yes.  It works fine.

http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/fuel/index.htm


Rich wrote:
Has anyone tried teeing the fuel return line into the fuel feed line 
before the filter?  Just wondering??


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com




___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 



___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Dr. Mark Bodnar]

Here's another article online about repairing a fuel tank.
http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_services/articles/epoxycure.php

Plus a product I found online
POR 15
http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT_p_62.html
I used their rust inhibitor with great success on my motorcycle a few 
years back - no signs of rust coming back yet


Mark

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 10/02/2014 4:03 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:
Well, it was a cold weekend, but I wanted to check the boat, make sure 
there was no water freezing up inside, and if I'm going to drive down 
there then I may as well get at a job or 2.


Stripped off the last bit of upholstery - now I can get all the 
cushions re-covered


Then I tried to remove the fuel tank.  Let's just say the tank was not 
in total agreement with my plan, and as such the process was a little 
more violent that I had hoped for - I had to cut the inlet and vent 
pipe (but I figure that 1986 hoses are likely due for replacement - so 
it was not a huge loss.


Once I had everything disconnected I lifted the mostly empty tank out 
of the lazerette - and saw a small pin-hole leak stream out on the top 
of the tank.  Right where one of the metal tank strap tighteners was 
resting - clearly the contrasting metal had corroded a small hole.

Otherwise the tank looks good.  Just dirty.

I need to clean the tank up to get a better look - but I'm wondering 
how this should be repaired.
Given I wanted to clean out the tank and install an access hatch (but 
near the other end of the tank) - should I get a small patch weld?

Or did I read somewhere that a fuel tank can be lined with epoxy.
(http://www.sailfeed.com/2012/07/one-way-to-repair-leaking-aluminum-fuel-tanks/) 

I feel like I could even just drill out the hole, tap it and screw in 
a small bolt with a gasket.


I'm stiff after a few hours in the lazerette fighting with the fuel 
tank - but the new boat shine has not worn off yet!



Mark




___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Peter Fell]

Avoid any issues and replace it with a new tank. That one pin-hole leak you 
have found is an indicator of others waiting in the wings. I did a Moeller 
tank when I had the engine rebuilt last summer (mind you the old tank wasn't 
about to come out of the cockpit locker hatch when the engine was in  
without major surgery).


Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
CC 27 MkIII

-Original Message- 
From: Dr. Mark Bodnar

Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 12:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fuel tank

Well, it was a cold weekend, but I wanted to check the boat, make sure
there was no water freezing up inside, and if I'm going to drive down
there then I may as well get at a job or 2.

Stripped off the last bit of upholstery - now I can get all the cushions
re-covered

Then I tried to remove the fuel tank.  Let's just say the tank was not
in total agreement with my plan, and as such the process was a little
more violent that I had hoped for - I had to cut the inlet and vent pipe
(but I figure that 1986 hoses are likely due for replacement - so it was
not a huge loss.

Once I had everything disconnected I lifted the mostly empty tank out of
the lazerette - and saw a small pin-hole leak stream out on the top of
the tank.  Right where one of the metal tank strap tighteners was
resting - clearly the contrasting metal had corroded a small hole.
Otherwise the tank looks good.  Just dirty.

I need to clean the tank up to get a better look - but I'm wondering how
this should be repaired.
Given I wanted to clean out the tank and install an access hatch (but
near the other end of the tank) - should I get a small patch weld?
Or did I read somewhere that a fuel tank can be lined with epoxy.
(http://www.sailfeed.com/2012/07/one-way-to-repair-leaking-aluminum-fuel-tanks/)

I feel like I could even just drill out the hole, tap it and screw in a
small bolt with a gasket.

I'm stiff after a few hours in the lazerette fighting with the fuel tank
- but the new boat shine has not worn off yet!


Mark

--

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 



___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Ed Levert]

Mark:

I just this weekend completed changing the fuel tank in my 1981 CC 34. It was 
not worth the risk to attempt to repair the old tank particularly having to cut 
off the filler neck. My tank was 19-20 gallons. Moeller Marine 
www.moellermarine.com makes a USCG approved plastic tank that in my case 
literally was a drop in in terms of dimension and location of the fill, vent, 
and fuel line fittings. It came from AMAZON. Ordered on Monday, delivered on 
Thursday with ground delivery and the total costs including shipping was less 
than $160.00. If you have the old tank out, it makes no sense to try to fix it. 
Trident Marine http://www.tridentmarine.com/ makes a more flexible fill hose. 

Ed
Briar Patch CC 34
New Orleans, La

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark 
Bodnar
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 2:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fuel tank

Well, it was a cold weekend, but I wanted to check the boat, make sure there 
was no water freezing up inside, and if I'm going to drive down there then I 
may as well get at a job or 2.

Stripped off the last bit of upholstery - now I can get all the cushions 
re-covered

Then I tried to remove the fuel tank.  Let's just say the tank was not in total 
agreement with my plan, and as such the process was a little more violent that 
I had hoped for - I had to cut the inlet and vent pipe (but I figure that 1986 
hoses are likely due for replacement - so it was not a huge loss.

Once I had everything disconnected I lifted the mostly empty tank out of the 
lazerette - and saw a small pin-hole leak stream out on the top of the tank.  
Right where one of the metal tank strap tighteners was resting - clearly the 
contrasting metal had corroded a small hole.
Otherwise the tank looks good.  Just dirty.

I need to clean the tank up to get a better look - but I'm wondering how this 
should be repaired.
Given I wanted to clean out the tank and install an access hatch (but near the 
other end of the tank) - should I get a small patch weld?
Or did I read somewhere that a fuel tank can be lined with epoxy.
(http://www.sailfeed.com/2012/07/one-way-to-repair-leaking-aluminum-fuel-tanks/)
 

I feel like I could even just drill out the hole, tap it and screw in a small 
bolt with a gasket.

I'm stiff after a few hours in the lazerette fighting with the fuel tank
- but the new boat shine has not worn off yet!


Mark

-- 

-
   Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Dennis Cheuvront]

Are you opposed to a new tank?  Granted, a pinhole leak on the top may not
indicate more problems but it would make me think about the overall
integrity of the tank.

One of the first things I did when I bought Touche' was to replace the fuel
tank.  I replaced it again when I repowered to a diesel.

Many tanks are standard sizes.  Check the Moeller site to see if they have
one that will fit.  Then go shopping online for the best price.  For
instance, one to fit a 35-1 is $153 new and $131 used on Amazon.  That
seems like a cheap price for the peace of mind that the tank is good.

One of our listers just replaced his tank for what I thought was a pretty
decent price.  Maybe he'll chime in.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 2:03 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar drbod...@accesswave.cawrote:

 Well, it was a cold weekend, but I wanted to check the boat, make sure
 there was no water freezing up inside, and if I'm going to drive down there
 then I may as well get at a job or 2.

 Stripped off the last bit of upholstery - now I can get all the cushions
 re-covered

 Then I tried to remove the fuel tank.  Let's just say the tank was not in
 total agreement with my plan, and as such the process was a little more
 violent that I had hoped for - I had to cut the inlet and vent pipe (but I
 figure that 1986 hoses are likely due for replacement - so it was not a
 huge loss.

 Once I had everything disconnected I lifted the mostly empty tank out of
 the lazerette - and saw a small pin-hole leak stream out on the top of the
 tank.  Right where one of the metal tank strap tighteners was resting -
 clearly the contrasting metal had corroded a small hole.
 Otherwise the tank looks good.  Just dirty.

 I need to clean the tank up to get a better look - but I'm wondering how
 this should be repaired.
 Given I wanted to clean out the tank and install an access hatch (but near
 the other end of the tank) - should I get a small patch weld?
 Or did I read somewhere that a fuel tank can be lined with epoxy.
 (http://www.sailfeed.com/2012/07/one-way-to-repair-leaking-
 aluminum-fuel-tanks/)
 I feel like I could even just drill out the hole, tap it and screw in a
 small bolt with a gasket.

 I'm stiff after a few hours in the lazerette fighting with the fuel tank -
 but the new boat shine has not worn off yet!


 Mark

 --

 -
   Dr. Mark Bodnar
 B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
 Bedford Chiropractic
 -

 There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana


 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Don Siddall]

I removed the steel tank from my 35-1 and discovered a lot of corrosion 
on the bottom where condensation had settled, so was glad to have 
removed it.


When I put a flashlight against the side of my plastic tank I can see 
exactly how much fuel I have. So, no worrying about the accuracy of the 
gauge when fuel is in an important concern when travelling. And it's 
easier to fill the tank without spilling.


Don

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Rich Knowles]

Mark:  I think I'd not mess with a 30+ year old old tank, but get a new one. If 
there is one hole, another one is waiting to appear. 

Rich

 On Feb 10, 2014, at 17:41, Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Are you opposed to a new tank?  Granted, a pinhole leak on the top may not 
 indicate more problems but it would make me think about the overall integrity 
 of the tank.
 
 One of the first things I did when I bought Touche' was to replace the fuel 
 tank.  I replaced it again when I repowered to a diesel.
 
 Many tanks are standard sizes.  Check the Moeller site to see if they have 
 one that will fit.  Then go shopping online for the best price.  For 
 instance, one to fit a 35-1 is $153 new and $131 used on Amazon.  That seems 
 like a cheap price for the peace of mind that the tank is good.
 
 One of our listers just replaced his tank for what I thought was a pretty 
 decent price.  Maybe he'll chime in.
 
 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA
 
 
 On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 2:03 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar drbod...@accesswave.ca 
 wrote:
 Well, it was a cold weekend, but I wanted to check the boat, make sure there 
 was no water freezing up inside, and if I'm going to drive down there then I 
 may as well get at a job or 2.
 
 Stripped off the last bit of upholstery - now I can get all the cushions 
 re-covered
 
 Then I tried to remove the fuel tank.  Let's just say the tank was not in 
 total agreement with my plan, and as such the process was a little more 
 violent that I had hoped for - I had to cut the inlet and vent pipe (but I 
 figure that 1986 hoses are likely due for replacement - so it was not a huge 
 loss.
 
 Once I had everything disconnected I lifted the mostly empty tank out of the 
 lazerette - and saw a small pin-hole leak stream out on the top of the tank. 
  Right where one of the metal tank strap tighteners was resting - clearly 
 the contrasting metal had corroded a small hole.
 Otherwise the tank looks good.  Just dirty.
 
 I need to clean the tank up to get a better look - but I'm wondering how 
 this should be repaired.
 Given I wanted to clean out the tank and install an access hatch (but near 
 the other end of the tank) - should I get a small patch weld?
 Or did I read somewhere that a fuel tank can be lined with epoxy.
 (http://www.sailfeed.com/2012/07/one-way-to-repair-leaking-aluminum-fuel-tanks/)
  
 I feel like I could even just drill out the hole, tap it and screw in a 
 small bolt with a gasket.
 
 I'm stiff after a few hours in the lazerette fighting with the fuel tank - 
 but the new boat shine has not worn off yet!
 
 
 Mark
 
 -- 
 
 -
   Dr. Mark Bodnar
 B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
 Bedford Chiropractic
 -
 
 There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Bill Coleman]

For Crissakes Mark, take that tank out and put a good plastic tank in there.
In the time you wasted screwing around with this one, you can do a few backs
and be all set!  It's toboggan season!  Reap, reap!
Sorry, I will now go back and work on my interpersonal skills.

Bill Coleman
CC 39 


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark
Bodnar
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 3:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

Here's another article online about repairing a fuel tank.
http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_services/articles/epoxycure.php

Plus a product I found online
POR 15
http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT_p_62.html
I used their rust inhibitor with great success on my motorcycle a few 
years back - no signs of rust coming back yet

Mark

-
   Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana

On 10/02/2014 4:03 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:
 Well, it was a cold weekend, but I wanted to check the boat, make sure 
 there was no water freezing up inside, and if I'm going to drive down 
 there then I may as well get at a job or 2.

 Stripped off the last bit of upholstery - now I can get all the 
 cushions re-covered

 Then I tried to remove the fuel tank.  Let's just say the tank was not 
 in total agreement with my plan, and as such the process was a little 
 more violent that I had hoped for - I had to cut the inlet and vent 
 pipe (but I figure that 1986 hoses are likely due for replacement - so 
 it was not a huge loss.

 Once I had everything disconnected I lifted the mostly empty tank out 
 of the lazerette - and saw a small pin-hole leak stream out on the top 
 of the tank.  Right where one of the metal tank strap tighteners was 
 resting - clearly the contrasting metal had corroded a small hole.
 Otherwise the tank looks good.  Just dirty.

 I need to clean the tank up to get a better look - but I'm wondering 
 how this should be repaired.
 Given I wanted to clean out the tank and install an access hatch (but 
 near the other end of the tank) - should I get a small patch weld?
 Or did I read somewhere that a fuel tank can be lined with epoxy.

(http://www.sailfeed.com/2012/07/one-way-to-repair-leaking-aluminum-fuel-tan
ks/) 

 I feel like I could even just drill out the hole, tap it and screw in 
 a small bolt with a gasket.

 I'm stiff after a few hours in the lazerette fighting with the fuel 
 tank - but the new boat shine has not worn off yet!


 Mark



___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Rich Knowles]

2 thumbs up!

Rich

 On Feb 10, 2014, at 18:02, Bill Coleman colt...@verizon.net wrote:
 
 For Crissakes Mark, take that tank out and put a good plastic tank in there.
 In the time you wasted screwing around with this one, you can do a few backs
 and be all set!  It's toboggan season!  Reap, reap!
 Sorry, I will now go back and work on my interpersonal skills.
 
 Bill Coleman
 CC 39 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark
 Bodnar
 Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 3:29 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank
 
 Here's another article online about repairing a fuel tank.
 http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_services/articles/epoxycure.php
 
 Plus a product I found online
 POR 15
 http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT_p_62.html
 I used their rust inhibitor with great success on my motorcycle a few 
 years back - no signs of rust coming back yet
 
 Mark
 
 -
   Dr. Mark Bodnar
 B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
 Bedford Chiropractic
 -
 
 There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana
 
 On 10/02/2014 4:03 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:
 Well, it was a cold weekend, but I wanted to check the boat, make sure 
 there was no water freezing up inside, and if I'm going to drive down 
 there then I may as well get at a job or 2.
 
 Stripped off the last bit of upholstery - now I can get all the 
 cushions re-covered
 
 Then I tried to remove the fuel tank.  Let's just say the tank was not 
 in total agreement with my plan, and as such the process was a little 
 more violent that I had hoped for - I had to cut the inlet and vent 
 pipe (but I figure that 1986 hoses are likely due for replacement - so 
 it was not a huge loss.
 
 Once I had everything disconnected I lifted the mostly empty tank out 
 of the lazerette - and saw a small pin-hole leak stream out on the top 
 of the tank.  Right where one of the metal tank strap tighteners was 
 resting - clearly the contrasting metal had corroded a small hole.
 Otherwise the tank looks good.  Just dirty.
 
 I need to clean the tank up to get a better look - but I'm wondering 
 how this should be repaired.
 Given I wanted to clean out the tank and install an access hatch (but 
 near the other end of the tank) - should I get a small patch weld?
 Or did I read somewhere that a fuel tank can be lined with epoxy.
 
 (http://www.sailfeed.com/2012/07/one-way-to-repair-leaking-aluminum-fuel-tan
 ks/) 
 
 I feel like I could even just drill out the hole, tap it and screw in 
 a small bolt with a gasket.
 
 I'm stiff after a few hours in the lazerette fighting with the fuel 
 tank - but the new boat shine has not worn off yet!
 
 
 Mark
 
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Dr. Mark Bodnar]

  
  

  I'm not adverse to replacing the tank - but looking online so far
  I can't find a replacement that matches the shape or the fill
  holes.
  The CS tank is 19Gal - and approx 10" wide, 48" long and 6" deep
  and one end, 12" deep at the other -- a pre-fab new tank would
  likely require a new mounting set up. Or an expensive custom made
  tank.
  
  I need to examine the tank more closely - but the only pin-hole is
  on the top of the tank where the steel bracket was holding the
  tank in place - otherwise with was well supported up out of the
  bilge and looks to be good. 
  If it's just the one spot from metal contact and the rest of the
  tank is stable then I might try the POR 15 tank seal product. 
  
  Need to drain out the diesel and clean it to see what I'm dealing
  with.
  
  Mark
  -
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 10/02/2014 6:02 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:


  
  Mark: I think I'd not mess with a 30+ year old old tank, but
get a new one. If there is one hole, another one is waiting to
appear.

Rich
  
On Feb 10, 2014, at 17:41, Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com
wrote:

  
  

  

  

  Are you opposed to a new tank? Granted, a
pinhole leak on the top may not indicate more
problems but it would make me think about the
overall integrity of the tank.

  
  One of the first things I did when I bought
Touche' was to replace the fuel tank. I replaced it
again when I repowered to a diesel.
  
  
  
  Many tanks are standard sizes. Check the Moeller site
  to see if they have one that will fit. Then go
  shopping online for the best price. For instance, one
  to fit a 35-1 is $153 new and $131 used on Amazon.
  That seems like a cheap price for the peace of mind
  that the tank is good.
  
  One of our listers just replaced his tank for what I
  thought was a pretty decent price. Maybe he'll chime
  in.
  

Dennis C.
  
  Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA
  
  


On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 2:03 PM,
  Dr. Mark Bodnar drbod...@accesswave.ca
  wrote:
  
Well, it was a cold weekend, but I wanted to check the
boat, make sure there was no water freezing up inside,
and if I'm going to drive down there then I may as well
get at a job or 2.

Stripped off the last bit of upholstery - now I can get
all the cushions re-covered

Then I tried to remove the fuel tank. Let's just say
the tank was not in total agreement with my plan, and as
such the process was a little more violent that I had
hoped for - I had to cut the inlet and vent pipe (but I
figure that 1986 hoses are likely due for replacement -
so it was not a huge loss.

Once I had everything disconnected I lifted the mostly
empty tank out of the lazerette - and saw a small
pin-hole leak stream out on the top of the tank. Right
where one of the metal tank strap tighteners was resting
- clearly the contrasting metal had corroded a small
hole.
Otherwise the tank looks good. Just dirty.

I need to clean the tank up to get a better look - but
I'm wondering how this should be repaired.
Given I wanted to clean out the tank and install an
access hatch (but near the other end of the tank) -
should I get a small patch weld?
Or did I read somewhere that a fuel tank can be lined
with epoxy.
(http://www.sailfeed.com/2012/07/one-way-to-repair-leaking-aluminum-fuel-tanks/)

I feel like I could even just drill out the hole, tap it
and screw in a small bolt with a gasket.

I'm stiff after a few hours in the lazerette fighting
with the fuel tank - but the 

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Ed Levert]

Mark:

Go to the Moeller web site. The 19 gallon tank I bought was 11.75(h) x 16(w) 
x 26(d). I believe mine was part No. 032519.  The site will give you a drawing 
of the fitting locations. The tank fit through the hatch without problem. I 
could not have asked for anything easier. The hardest part of the job (for my 
son) was removal of the old, stiff fill hose.

Ed
Briar Patch CC 34
New Orleans


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Dr. Mark Bodnar]

No offense on the interpersonal skills!
The reason I asked the question is I don't know the right solution.  
Looking for answers online it's hard to separate the wheat from the chaff.


I've looked at the Moeller website - I could modify the tank location to 
fit, but the 19 gal tank that sells on ebay for $160 does not ship to 
Canada.

I can get the 20 gal tank
http://ca.binnacle.com/p6468/MOELLER-%2332520-FUEL-TANK-20-USG-PERMANENT/product_info.html
That is the closest match to my existing tank


Mark

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 10/02/2014 6:02 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

For Crissakes Mark, take that tank out and put a good plastic tank in there.
In the time you wasted screwing around with this one, you can do a few backs
and be all set!  It's toboggan season!  Reap, reap!
Sorry, I will now go back and work on my interpersonal skills.

Bill Coleman
CC 39


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark
Bodnar
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 3:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

Here's another article online about repairing a fuel tank.
http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_services/articles/epoxycure.php

Plus a product I found online
POR 15
http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT_p_62.html
I used their rust inhibitor with great success on my motorcycle a few
years back - no signs of rust coming back yet

Mark

-
Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana

On 10/02/2014 4:03 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:

Well, it was a cold weekend, but I wanted to check the boat, make sure
there was no water freezing up inside, and if I'm going to drive down
there then I may as well get at a job or 2.

Stripped off the last bit of upholstery - now I can get all the
cushions re-covered

Then I tried to remove the fuel tank.  Let's just say the tank was not
in total agreement with my plan, and as such the process was a little
more violent that I had hoped for - I had to cut the inlet and vent
pipe (but I figure that 1986 hoses are likely due for replacement - so
it was not a huge loss.

Once I had everything disconnected I lifted the mostly empty tank out
of the lazerette - and saw a small pin-hole leak stream out on the top
of the tank.  Right where one of the metal tank strap tighteners was
resting - clearly the contrasting metal had corroded a small hole.
Otherwise the tank looks good.  Just dirty.

I need to clean the tank up to get a better look - but I'm wondering
how this should be repaired.
Given I wanted to clean out the tank and install an access hatch (but
near the other end of the tank) - should I get a small patch weld?
Or did I read somewhere that a fuel tank can be lined with epoxy.


(http://www.sailfeed.com/2012/07/one-way-to-repair-leaking-aluminum-fuel-tan
ks/)

I feel like I could even just drill out the hole, tap it and screw in
a small bolt with a gasket.

I'm stiff after a few hours in the lazerette fighting with the fuel
tank - but the new boat shine has not worn off yet!


Mark



___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com




___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Bill Coleman]

Kracor does not seem to have one that size.

 

Bill Coleman

CC 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark
Bodnar
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 5:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

 


I'm not adverse to replacing the tank - but looking online so far I can't
find a replacement that matches the shape or the fill holes.
The CS tank is 19Gal - and approx 10 wide, 48 long and 6 deep and one
end, 12 deep at the other -- a pre-fab new tank would likely require a new
mounting set up. Or an expensive custom made tank.

I need to examine the tank more closely - but the only pin-hole is on the
top of the tank where the steel bracket was holding the tank in place -
otherwise with was well supported up out of the bilge and looks to be good.

If it's just the one spot from metal contact and the rest of the tank is
stable then I might try the POR 15 tank seal product. 

Need to drain out the diesel and clean it to see what I'm dealing with.

Mark



-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-
 
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 10/02/2014 6:02 PM, Rich Knowles wrote:

Mark:  I think I'd not mess with a 30+ year old old tank, but get a new one.
If there is one hole, another one is waiting to appear. 

Rich


On Feb 10, 2014, at 17:41, Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com wrote:

Are you opposed to a new tank?  Granted, a pinhole leak on the top may not
indicate more problems but it would make me think about the overall
integrity of the tank.

One of the first things I did when I bought Touche' was to replace the fuel
tank.  I replaced it again when I repowered to a diesel.

 

Many tanks are standard sizes.  Check the Moeller site to see if they have
one that will fit.  Then go shopping online for the best price.  For
instance, one to fit a 35-1 is $153 new and $131 used on Amazon.  That seems
like a cheap price for the peace of mind that the tank is good.

One of our listers just replaced his tank for what I thought was a pretty
decent price.  Maybe he'll chime in.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 2:03 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar drbod...@accesswave.ca
wrote:

Well, it was a cold weekend, but I wanted to check the boat, make sure there
was no water freezing up inside, and if I'm going to drive down there then I
may as well get at a job or 2.

Stripped off the last bit of upholstery - now I can get all the cushions
re-covered

Then I tried to remove the fuel tank.  Let's just say the tank was not in
total agreement with my plan, and as such the process was a little more
violent that I had hoped for - I had to cut the inlet and vent pipe (but I
figure that 1986 hoses are likely due for replacement - so it was not a huge
loss.

Once I had everything disconnected I lifted the mostly empty tank out of the
lazerette - and saw a small pin-hole leak stream out on the top of the tank.
Right where one of the metal tank strap tighteners was resting - clearly the
contrasting metal had corroded a small hole.
Otherwise the tank looks good.  Just dirty.

I need to clean the tank up to get a better look - but I'm wondering how
this should be repaired.
Given I wanted to clean out the tank and install an access hatch (but near
the other end of the tank) - should I get a small patch weld?
Or did I read somewhere that a fuel tank can be lined with epoxy.
(http://www.sailfeed.com/2012/07/one-way-to-repair-leaking-aluminum-fuel-tan
ks/) 
I feel like I could even just drill out the hole, tap it and screw in a
small bolt with a gasket.

I'm stiff after a few hours in the lazerette fighting with the fuel tank -
but the new boat shine has not worn off yet!


Mark

-- 

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com






___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

 

image001.gif___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Bill Coleman]

Well it that will work, maybe one of Kracors

http://www.kracor.com/pages/marinecatalog.html



Bill Coleman
CC 39 


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark
Bodnar
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 6:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank


No offense on the interpersonal skills!
The reason I asked the question is I don't know the right solution.  
Looking for answers online it's hard to separate the wheat from the chaff.

I've looked at the Moeller website - I could modify the tank location to 
fit, but the 19 gal tank that sells on ebay for $160 does not ship to 
Canada.
I can get the 20 gal tank
http://ca.binnacle.com/p6468/MOELLER-%2332520-FUEL-TANK-20-USG-PERMANENT/pro
duct_info.html
That is the closest match to my existing tank


Mark

-
   Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana

On 10/02/2014 6:02 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
 For Crissakes Mark, take that tank out and put a good plastic tank in
there.
 In the time you wasted screwing around with this one, you can do a few
backs
 and be all set!  It's toboggan season!  Reap, reap!
 Sorry, I will now go back and work on my interpersonal skills.

 Bill Coleman
 CC 39


 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr.
Mark
 Bodnar
 Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 3:29 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

 Here's another article online about repairing a fuel tank.
 http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_services/articles/epoxycure.php

 Plus a product I found online
 POR 15
 http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT_p_62.html
 I used their rust inhibitor with great success on my motorcycle a few
 years back - no signs of rust coming back yet

 Mark

 -
 Dr. Mark Bodnar
 B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
 Bedford Chiropractic
 -

 There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
 - George Santayana

 On 10/02/2014 4:03 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:
 Well, it was a cold weekend, but I wanted to check the boat, make sure
 there was no water freezing up inside, and if I'm going to drive down
 there then I may as well get at a job or 2.

 Stripped off the last bit of upholstery - now I can get all the
 cushions re-covered

 Then I tried to remove the fuel tank.  Let's just say the tank was not
 in total agreement with my plan, and as such the process was a little
 more violent that I had hoped for - I had to cut the inlet and vent
 pipe (but I figure that 1986 hoses are likely due for replacement - so
 it was not a huge loss.

 Once I had everything disconnected I lifted the mostly empty tank out
 of the lazerette - and saw a small pin-hole leak stream out on the top
 of the tank.  Right where one of the metal tank strap tighteners was
 resting - clearly the contrasting metal had corroded a small hole.
 Otherwise the tank looks good.  Just dirty.

 I need to clean the tank up to get a better look - but I'm wondering
 how this should be repaired.
 Given I wanted to clean out the tank and install an access hatch (but
 near the other end of the tank) - should I get a small patch weld?
 Or did I read somewhere that a fuel tank can be lined with epoxy.


(http://www.sailfeed.com/2012/07/one-way-to-repair-leaking-aluminum-fuel-tan
 ks/)
 I feel like I could even just drill out the hole, tap it and screw in
 a small bolt with a gasket.

 I'm stiff after a few hours in the lazerette fighting with the fuel
 tank - but the new boat shine has not worn off yet!


 Mark


 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com


 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com



___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Dr. Mark Bodnar]

  
  

  Looking at the Moeller tanks leads to a new question - maybe my
  Volvo diesel is a bit different - but my original tank has 4
  connections
  1 - fuel fill
  1 - vent line (goes out to the stern)
  1 - line feeds to the fuel filter
  and 1 line that I assume is a return feed from the engine
  
  But the Moeller tanks don't appear to have the 4th return feed???
  
  Does the tank need a specific fitting or extra fitting?
  
  Mark
  -
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 10/02/2014 5:41 PM, Dennis Cheuvront wrote:


  

  

  Are you opposed to a new tank? Granted, a pinhole
leak on the top may not indicate more problems but it
would make me think about the overall integrity of the
tank.

  
  One of the first things I did when I bought Touche'
was to replace the fuel tank. I replaced it again when
I repowered to a diesel.
  
  
  
  Many tanks are standard sizes. Check the Moeller site to
  see if they have one that will fit. Then go shopping
  online for the best price. For instance, one to fit a
  35-1 is $153 new and $131 used on Amazon. That seems like
  a cheap price for the peace of mind that the tank is good.
  
  One of our listers just replaced his tank for what I
  thought was a pretty decent price. Maybe he'll chime in.
  

Dennis C.
  
  Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA
  
  


On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 2:03 PM, Dr.
  Mark Bodnar drbod...@accesswave.ca
  wrote:
  
Well, it was a cold weekend, but I wanted to check the boat,
make sure there was no water freezing up inside, and if I'm
going to drive down there then I may as well get at a job or
2.

Stripped off the last bit of upholstery - now I can get all
the cushions re-covered

Then I tried to remove the fuel tank. Let's just say the
tank was not in total agreement with my plan, and as such
the process was a little more violent that I had hoped for -
I had to cut the inlet and vent pipe (but I figure that 1986
hoses are likely due for replacement - so it was not a huge
loss.

Once I had everything disconnected I lifted the mostly empty
tank out of the lazerette - and saw a small pin-hole leak
stream out on the top of the tank. Right where one of the
metal tank strap tighteners was resting - clearly the
contrasting metal had corroded a small hole.
Otherwise the tank looks good. Just dirty.

I need to clean the tank up to get a better look - but I'm
wondering how this should be repaired.
Given I wanted to clean out the tank and install an access
hatch (but near the other end of the tank) - should I get a
small patch weld?
Or did I read somewhere that a fuel tank can be lined with
epoxy.
(http://www.sailfeed.com/2012/07/one-way-to-repair-leaking-aluminum-fuel-tanks/)

I feel like I could even just drill out the hole, tap it and
screw in a small bolt with a gasket.

I'm stiff after a few hours in the lazerette fighting with
the fuel tank - but the new boat shine has not worn off yet!


Mark

-- 

-
 Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the
interval.
 - George Santayana


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  


  
  
  
  
  ___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com



  


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Peter Fell]

19 gallon here for $275 CAN: 
http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10025|10273product=21089031code=039729325194

And probably many other suppliers too.

It's the same tank I used and I got mine locally ... although I paid more at 
the time I wasn't in a position to wait on shipping. I did have to re-do the 
base the tank sits on and enlarge the opening in the bulkhead that it passes 
through. When you are contemplating space for a new tank remember with the 
plastic ones to:


1) allow for extra width on the tank base for the hold-down clamps.
2) allow for tank expansion

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
CC 27 MkIII

-Original Message- 
From: Dr. Mark Bodnar

Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 3:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank


No offense on the interpersonal skills!
The reason I asked the question is I don't know the right solution.
Looking for answers online it's hard to separate the wheat from the chaff.

I've looked at the Moeller website - I could modify the tank location to
fit, but the 19 gal tank that sells on ebay for $160 does not ship to
Canada.
I can get the 20 gal tank
http://ca.binnacle.com/p6468/MOELLER-%2332520-FUEL-TANK-20-USG-PERMANENT/product_info.html
That is the closest match to my existing tank


Mark

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 10/02/2014 6:02 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
For Crissakes Mark, take that tank out and put a good plastic tank in 
there.
In the time you wasted screwing around with this one, you can do a few 
backs

and be all set!  It's toboggan season!  Reap, reap!
Sorry, I will now go back and work on my interpersonal skills.

Bill Coleman
CC 39


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. 
Mark

Bodnar
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 3:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

Here's another article online about repairing a fuel tank.
http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_services/articles/epoxycure.php

Plus a product I found online
POR 15
http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT_p_62.html
I used their rust inhibitor with great success on my motorcycle a few
years back - no signs of rust coming back yet

Mark

-
Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana

On 10/02/2014 4:03 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:

Well, it was a cold weekend, but I wanted to check the boat, make sure
there was no water freezing up inside, and if I'm going to drive down
there then I may as well get at a job or 2.

Stripped off the last bit of upholstery - now I can get all the
cushions re-covered

Then I tried to remove the fuel tank.  Let's just say the tank was not
in total agreement with my plan, and as such the process was a little
more violent that I had hoped for - I had to cut the inlet and vent
pipe (but I figure that 1986 hoses are likely due for replacement - so
it was not a huge loss.

Once I had everything disconnected I lifted the mostly empty tank out
of the lazerette - and saw a small pin-hole leak stream out on the top
of the tank.  Right where one of the metal tank strap tighteners was
resting - clearly the contrasting metal had corroded a small hole.
Otherwise the tank looks good.  Just dirty.

I need to clean the tank up to get a better look - but I'm wondering
how this should be repaired.
Given I wanted to clean out the tank and install an access hatch (but
near the other end of the tank) - should I get a small patch weld?
Or did I read somewhere that a fuel tank can be lined with epoxy.


(http://www.sailfeed.com/2012/07/one-way-to-repair-leaking-aluminum-fuel-tan
ks/)

I feel like I could even just drill out the hole, tap it and screw in
a small bolt with a gasket.

I'm stiff after a few hours in the lazerette fighting with the fuel
tank - but the new boat shine has not worn off yet!


Mark



___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com




___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 



___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Peter Fell]

There is a kit you buy that provides the return line fitting on the flange of 
the fuel sending unit  I think they only sell it with the sending unit 
included: 
http://ca.binnacle.com/p6463/MOELLER-%2335724-10-DIESEL-RETURN-KIT/product_info.html

If you can’t get the flange and return fitting separately, I’d just put the 
other sending unit up for sale on craigslist. Someone out there needs a new 
sending unit.

Check out the Moeller site for more info.



From: Dr. Mark Bodnar 
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 3:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank


Looking at the Moeller tanks leads to a new question - maybe my Volvo diesel is 
a bit different - but my original tank has 4 connections
1 - fuel fill
1 - vent line (goes out to the stern)
1 - line feeds to the fuel filter
and 1 line that I assume is a return feed from the engine

But the Moeller tanks don't appear to have the 4th return feed???

Does the tank need a specific fitting or extra fitting?

Mark

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George SantayanaOn 10/02/2014 5:41 PM, Dennis Cheuvront wrote:

  Are you opposed to a new tank?  Granted, a pinhole leak on the top may not 
indicate more problems but it would make me think about the overall integrity 
of the tank.


  One of the first things I did when I bought Touche' was to replace the fuel 
tank.  I replaced it again when I repowered to a diesel.


  Many tanks are standard sizes.  Check the Moeller site to see if they have 
one that will fit.  Then go shopping online for the best price.  For instance, 
one to fit a 35-1 is $153 new and $131 used on Amazon.  That seems like a cheap 
price for the peace of mind that the tank is good.

  One of our listers just replaced his tank for what I thought was a pretty 
decent price.  Maybe he'll chime in.


  Dennis C.

  Touche' 35-1 #83

  Mandeville, LA




  On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 2:03 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar drbod...@accesswave.ca 
wrote:

Well, it was a cold weekend, but I wanted to check the boat, make sure 
there was no water freezing up inside, and if I'm going to drive down there 
then I may as well get at a job or 2.

Stripped off the last bit of upholstery - now I can get all the cushions 
re-covered

Then I tried to remove the fuel tank.  Let's just say the tank was not in 
total agreement with my plan, and as such the process was a little more violent 
that I had hoped for - I had to cut the inlet and vent pipe (but I figure that 
1986 hoses are likely due for replacement - so it was not a huge loss.

Once I had everything disconnected I lifted the mostly empty tank out of 
the lazerette - and saw a small pin-hole leak stream out on the top of the 
tank.  Right where one of the metal tank strap tighteners was resting - clearly 
the contrasting metal had corroded a small hole.
Otherwise the tank looks good.  Just dirty.

I need to clean the tank up to get a better look - but I'm wondering how 
this should be repaired.
Given I wanted to clean out the tank and install an access hatch (but near 
the other end of the tank) - should I get a small patch weld?
Or did I read somewhere that a fuel tank can be lined with epoxy.

(http://www.sailfeed.com/2012/07/one-way-to-repair-leaking-aluminum-fuel-tanks/)
 
I feel like I could even just drill out the hole, tap it and screw in a 
small bolt with a gasket.

I'm stiff after a few hours in the lazerette fighting with the fuel tank - 
but the new boat shine has not worn off yet!


Mark

-- 

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com



   

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com





___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel tank

[Ed Levert]

I did not know you were in Canada or that Amazon was not an option. West Marine 
carries Moellermarine products. Unfortunately West's price was about $50 higher 
than Amazon.

Ed

From: Ed Levert
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 4:48:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List Fuel tank

Mark:

Go to the Moeller web site. The 19 gallon tank I bought was 11.75(h) x 16(w) 
x 26(d). I believe mine was part No. 032519.  The site will give you a drawing 
of the fitting locations. The tank fit through the hatch without problem. I 
could not have asked for anything easier. The hardest part of the job (for my 
son) was removal of the old, stiff fill hose.

Ed
Briar Patch CC 34
New Orleans


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com