[Elecraft] K3 RTTY problem

2009-02-03 Thread n1ix1




I posted this Sunday bust since then I have been having email problems.
If you responded please send it again.


I am having a problem with receiving RTTY signals. It 
worked before so I assume it is something I have set incorrectly.


There is no? display of any text or even jiberish on any of the RTTY 
applications. No waterfall, nothing at all. I have tried different computers 
and 
multiple applications with the same results. I have adjusted the line out item 
in the config menu to full scale.  I have replaced the cable between line out 
and the computer.


I plugged headphones into the line out jack I can hear the 
RTTY signal but it seems to be attenuated. Although I don't know how loud it 
should be. I think it should be louder that it is.



BTW: transmit doesn't work at all. That will be the 
subject of another email.


Any help would be appreciated.


?


Dave N1IX

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[Elecraft] WTB: K1 with 40 30 20 17/15

2009-02-03 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn

I am looking for tcvr elecraft K1 band 40 30 20 17/15 .

73 David ok1fjd

I sold David one of my K2s and he is now looking for a K1 as stated above. I
believe he will be using this for SOTA as well.

If anyone has a K1 available, either in Europe or willing to ship to Europe,
please contact me and I will put the two of you in touch. 

Thanks,

Julius
n2wn
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RTTY problem

2009-02-03 Thread R. Kevin Stover
Which program are you using?
Did this ever work?
What changes have you made since it worked?

The line out on the K3 is a low level line out and would sound 
attenuated compared to the level on the speaker/phones jack. You've got 
the level as high as it will go on the K3, swapped the audio cable for a 
known good one, time to start looking at the sound card and application 
settings on the computer.


n1...@aol.com wrote:
 
 
 
 I posted this Sunday bust since then I have been having email problems.
 If you responded please send it again.
 
 
 I am having a problem with receiving RTTY signals. It 
 worked before so I assume it is something I have set incorrectly.
 
 
 There is no? display of any text or even jiberish on any of the RTTY 
 applications. No waterfall, nothing at all. I have tried different computers 
 and 
 multiple applications with the same results. I have adjusted the line out 
 item 
 in the config menu to full scale.  I have replaced the cable between line out 
 and the computer.
 
 
 I plugged headphones into the line out jack I can hear the 
 RTTY signal but it seems to be attenuated. Although I don't know how loud it 
 should be. I think it should be louder that it is.
 
 
 
 BTW: transmit doesn't work at all. That will be the 
 subject of another email.
 
 
 Any help would be appreciated.
 
 
 ?
 
 
 Dave N1IX


-- 
R. Kevin Stover, ACØH
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Re: [Elecraft] RTTY problem

2009-02-03 Thread Brian Alsop
Had the same thing happen after installing the new Google Earth today.   
I couldn't figure out what was changed in the audio pannel.
Restoring computer to a state just before the Google Earth install 
solved the problem.

73 de Brian/K3KO

N1IX wrote:

I am having a problem with receiving RTTY signals. It worked before so I 
assume it is something I have set incorrectly.
There is no  display of anything on any of the RTTY applications. No 
waterfall, nothing at all. I have tried different computers and multiple 
applications with the same results. I have adjusted the line out item in the 
config menu to full scale.
I plugged headphones into the line out jack I can hear the RTTY signal but it 
seems to be attenuated. Although I don't know how loud it should be.
BTW: transmit doesn't work at all. That will be the subject of another email.
Any help would be appreciated.

Dave N1IX
 
  



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[Elecraft] ATU Manual Adjust not working ?

2009-02-03 Thread CLAS OLOF BERGMAN
Hi,

I just downloaded lastest Firmware MCU 2.80/DSP 1.99 and tried for the first
time to do manual ATU LC adjustments. 
I can not manually change L or C with VFO A or B as it is described in the
manual. After tapping  ATU TUNE, if I turn the VFOs  they still just
scrolls through the menu settings but the radio is displaying a fixed L and
C value.

I looked back in the email archive and found a post from Mike Scott - AE6WA
dated 19 Jul 2008 with the same question:

I am finding with Beta 02.16/00.02/0.184 that I can't adjust ATU L and C
values. I select CONFIG: KAT3 LC Set then tap ATU Tune and I see the
following

CA  0.00 nF in VFO A
L   0.00 uH in VFO B

Moving the VFO A and VFO B knobs does not change the values.

I loaded some older firmware that I had on my computer but never got this
function working with any release.

Is this a known bug that is on the bugfix list or am I just doing things
wrong?

73 Classe SM3GSK

K3 1464


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Re: [Elecraft] RTTY problem

2009-02-03 Thread Ed Steeble
I use Quick Mix http://www.ptpart.co.uk/quickmix/ to save and restore 
my sound card setting. This program has saved me more than once.
73, Ed
K3IXD
K3 1726


Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 15:14:41 +
From: Brian Alsop als...@nc.rr.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RTTY problem
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: 49885f61.3090...@nc.rr.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Had the same thing happen after installing the new Google Earth today. I 
couldn't figure out what was changed in the audio pannel. Restoring 
computer to a state just before the Google Earth install solved the 
problem. 73 de Brian/K3KO N1IX wrote:

  I am having a problem with receiving RTTY signals. It worked before 
so I assume it is something I have set incorrectly.
  There is no  display of anything on any of the RTTY applications. No 
waterfall, nothing at all. I have tried different computers and multiple 
applications with the same results. I have adjusted the line out item in 
the config menu to full scale.
  I plugged headphones into the line out jack I can hear the RTTY 
signal but it seems to be attenuated. Although I don't know how loud it 
should be.
  BTW: transmit doesn't work at all. That will be the subject of 
another email.
  Any help would be appreciated.
  
  Dave N1IX
  
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Re: [Elecraft] ATU Manual Adjust not working ?

2009-02-03 Thread wayne burdick
Hi Clas,

You must exit the menu after setting KAT3 to LC SET. Only then can you 
tap ATU TUNE and make adjustments to L and C.

I'll make this clearer in the manual.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Feb 3, 2009, at 8:24 AM, CLAS OLOF BERGMAN wrote:

 Hi,

 I just downloaded lastest Firmware MCU 2.80/DSP 1.99 and tried for the 
 first
 time to do manual ATU LC adjustments.
 I can not manually change L or C with VFO A or B as it is described in 
 the
 manual. After tapping  ATU TUNE, if I turn the VFOs  they still just
 scrolls through the menu settings but the radio is displaying a fixed 
 L and
 C value.

---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] K3 Mods or Updates

2009-02-03 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
I was just curious if there have been any mods to the K3 Since June of Last
year other than firmware.  My unit still needs to have the Mic ground mod
done.

I ask this as my KRX3 is shipping so I will have the K3 open.

I downloaded all the new manuals etc.

Mike W0MU

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[Elecraft] Elecraft Web Site - speed

2009-02-03 Thread Stewart Baker
Is it me, or is the Elecraft site very slow to load. 
At present it is a bit like kick starting a Snail.

Stewart G3RXQ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 AM reception

2009-02-03 Thread Graham Kimbell (G3TCT)
Re the AM quality question I can't detect any clicking or other distortion
but then there are no high quality AM BC transmissions round here - they're
messed up either with selective fading or because the transmission comes
from more than one location on the same frequency.

The noise in between a string of dots is due to AGC PLS=nor.  Setting AGC
PLS = off cures it.

73
Graham
--

From: Wes Stewart n...@yahoo.com
[snip]
Now it might be argued that these artifacts are at such a low level they
would not be audible as distortion.  Maybe, but they represent essentially a
static situation.  When listening to a string of dots sent with my '870
the difference between fast and slow AGC is clearly audible.  When the
signal is S4 or 5, with fast AGC there is garbage that essentially sounds
like an increased noise level.

A simple test such as tuning in WWV and listening to the voice ID and
hearing the audio distortion and syllabic clicking disappear when simply
turning the AGC off and turning the RG gain down appropriately indicates a
real problem.

If there are K3s out there that don't do this, then I want one of them.

Wes  N7WS







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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Web Site - speed

2009-02-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Stewart,

Look to your internet provider for the problem - the Elecraft site loads 
in about 2 seconds here, and no it is not coming from the computer cache 
- I tried a page re-load too.

73,
Don W3FPR

Stewart Baker wrote:
 Is it me, or is the Elecraft site very slow to load. 
 At present it is a bit like kick starting a Snail.

 Stewart G3RXQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Web Site - speed

2009-02-03 Thread Julian, G4ILO



Stewart Baker wrote:
 
 Is it me, or is the Elecraft site very slow to load. 
 
It's you, or possibly your computer. :) It's as quick as anything here.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham
Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 
-- 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Web Site - speed

2009-02-03 Thread Grant Youngman


Maybe a request for a firmware feature update is in order  :)

It's been just fine in these parts ...

Grant/NQ5T


On Feb 3, 2009, at 12:25 PM, Julian, G4ILO wrote:




 Stewart Baker wrote:

 Is it me, or is the Elecraft site very slow to load.


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Re: [Elecraft] W1 housing?

2009-02-03 Thread Dave Van Wallaghen
Hi Ken,

That would be me: http://w8fgu.home.comcast.net/~w8fgu/enclosures.html

I also offer enclosures for the AF1, BL2 and DL1. The W1 enclosure is 
also offered in 3 different configurations depending how you want the 
BNC connectors mounted.

Let me know if I can answer any questions...

73,
Dave W8FGU

Ken Kopp wrote:
 Who makes the aftermarket clear plastic housing for the W1?
 
 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
 http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 AM reception

2009-02-03 Thread Grant Youngman
I haven't noticed any clicking either.

As to selective fading, it sure would be a good thing if the AM sync  
detector were high on the priority list.   I hate it that my manual  
continues to be so out of touch.  Or maybe I'm the only K3 owner who  
is not a CW Contester or operator of PSK31/RATT/digi mode of your  
choice  :-)

Grant/NQ5T


On Feb 3, 2009, at 11:56 AM, Graham Kimbell (G3TCT) wrote:

 Re the AM quality question I can't detect any clicking or other  
 distortion
 but then there are no high quality AM BC transmissions round here -  
 they're
 messed up either with selective fading or because the transmission  
 comes
 from more than one location on the same frequency.

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[Elecraft] (no subject)

2009-02-03 Thread Phil LaMarche
Anything in the future works for a 1 KW watt meter
 
Phil
 

Philip LaMarche 
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
 http://www.instantgourmetspices.com/ www.instantgourmetspices.com

www.w9dvm.com http://www.w9dvm.com/  
800-395-7795 pin 02 
727-944-3226 
FAX 727-937-8834 
NASFT 30210 

K3  #1605
W9DVM 


 
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[Elecraft] PEP and forward power about double of set power

2009-02-03 Thread Greg Buhyoff
I own two K3s and the newest one (factory assembled) is showing a power
output (both PEP and Forward) about double of what the power control
indicates.

I have done an automated power calibration via the K3 Utility using a 1.1:1
50 ohm resistive dummy load connected to ant port 1 and used a power setting
of norm. The calibration routine indicated success at 5 and 50 watts.

 But, when I switch to SSB and transmit the power out is about double what I
have my power control set at.  I have the tune control set for 10W and that
s what I get when I use the tune control for my Palstar Auto Tuner.

However, when I set the power to about 35 watts for my amp drive I am
getting sometimes 70-75 watts out PEP and Forward Power is the same.
Trying various power levels on the K3 give similar results -- much higher
than the setting.

 I have checked my power out numerous times using an LP-100A and Alpha 4510
which both give PEP and Forward power measurements.  I am using the Elecraft
HM2 mic and tried  both low and high mic gain in the menu setting where you
set the bias to on.  My mic gain is set for about 6-7 bars on the ALC scale
and compression set for 1 lit bar on the scale.

I then did the auto power calibration again and all is well with a
successful calibration indicated by the K3 power gain calibration routine.

I must be missing something, but for the life of me, I can't find it.  Or, I
am having brain lock-up and not seeing the obvious.

Any help or suggestions would be most appreciated.

Thanks and 73,
Greg K2UM
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[Elecraft] Downloading K3 Config

2009-02-03 Thread Roy Morris
I have downloaded the K3 Config information to MY DOCUMENTS.  I renamed the 
file K3 Config.  The file in MY DOCUMENTS was K3 Config.K3 Config.  When I 
clicked on it I got the following:

To open this file Windows needs to know what program created it.  Windows can 
go online to look up automatically, or you can manually select from a list of 
programs on your computer. 
What do you want to do?
Use the web service to find the appropriate program.
Select the program from a list.

I renamed the file: K3 Config (I took the duplication away)
I then selected XML Editor from the list 

The Config settings then appeared.  Please help me find a better and easier way 
to retrieve my settings.  Thanks.  Roy Morris  W4WFB__
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Re: [Elecraft] PEP and forward power about double of set power

2009-02-03 Thread Julian, G4ILO



Greg Buhyoff wrote:
 
 I own two K3s and the newest one (factory assembled) is showing a power
 output (both PEP and Forward) about double of what the power control
 indicates.
 
 I have done an automated power calibration via the K3 Utility using a
 1.1:1
 50 ohm resistive dummy load connected to ant port 1 and used a power
 setting
 of norm. The calibration routine indicated success at 5 and 50 watts.
 
  But, when I switch to SSB and transmit the power out is about double what
 I
 have my power control set at.  I have the tune control set for 10W and
 that
 s what I get when I use the tune control for my Palstar Auto Tuner.
 
 However, when I set the power to about 35 watts for my amp drive I am
 getting sometimes 70-75 watts out PEP and Forward Power is the same.
 Trying various power levels on the K3 give similar results -- much higher
 than the setting.
 
  I have checked my power out numerous times using an LP-100A and Alpha
 4510
 which both give PEP and Forward power measurements.  I am using the
 Elecraft
 HM2 mic and tried  both low and high mic gain in the menu setting where
 you
 set the bias to on.  My mic gain is set for about 6-7 bars on the ALC
 scale
 and compression set for 1 lit bar on the scale.
 
 I then did the auto power calibration again and all is well with a
 successful calibration indicated by the K3 power gain calibration routine.
 
 I must be missing something, but for the life of me, I can't find it.  Or,
 I
 am having brain lock-up and not seeing the obvious.
 
 Any help or suggestions would be most appreciated.
 
 
Tell me about it! Though in my case, it happens only in DATA, not SSB.

You need to set the CONFIG menu entry TXG VCE to -3.0dB. That should fix it.
Though why the K3 can't figure out the correct gain for itself is beyond me.
Not everyone has an accurate power meter.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham
Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 
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[Elecraft] K2 control board U6 pin 29,30

2009-02-03 Thread Mike Weir

Hi all,
Just finished the control board and did the infamous resistance checks. All but 
U6 pin 29 and 30 check out ok. 
1) Pin 29. 95.9 ohms with a radio shack multimeter
  96.5 with a Beckman 310 multimeter.

2) Pin 30..95.8 with the radio shack meter
  96.3 with the Beckman

I have read the posts regarding these checks and I have reversed the leads on 
both multimeters and had the same readings. Checked out the soldering at U6, 
RP4 and P3 as well. U6 seems to be seated just fine as well. They seem to be 
within 10% of the recommended high end readings but just want to make sure.
Thanks
Mike
VE3WDM 
Serial 06613

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 interface to THP 1.5Kfx amp

2009-02-03 Thread Phil Debbie Salas
The THP 5-pin DIN is actually a 6-pin DIN, but they don't use pin 6.  Buy a 
regular 6-pin DIN plug and it will work.

Phil - AD5X 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] KPA3 12v Sense Mod Question

2009-02-03 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Yes, there are several junctions in that circuit that gives you very
confused readings, especially in diode test mode. 

I also see nearly 1 k ohm from the anode of the new diode to ground. 

Ron AC7AC 

 

 

 

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Corboy-Poteet
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 2:23 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] KPA3 12v Sense Mod Question

 

I neglected to check the circuit characteristics before installing the diode
that is added for this mod (note to self: don't do this again).

 

With the diode installed, what I see with my DMM is about 1K ohms to ground
(with the DMM set below diode barrier voltage) which, looking at the
schematic, seems OK.  If I change the DMM to check diode response, I get
about 0.5 ohms in the forward direction (again OK). But I also get about 0.5
ohms in the reverse direction which isn't right (unless the the IC on the
other end of this circuit has opposite polarity).   If you have done this
mod, are you seeing similar measurements?

 

 

 

MikeW5FTD

 

 

  

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Web Site - speed

2009-02-03 Thread Darwin, Keith
From time to time, my home computer system experiences real slow
internet access.  If I shut down the machines, then shutdown and restart
the router  DSL modem, the speed returns.

Resetting the network hardware can work wonders!

I also notice a lot less issues with this since I went to a mac.

- Keith N1AS -
- K3 711 - 

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[Elecraft] KAT2 question abt voltage at U4, pin7

2009-02-03 Thread KC9GBX
After a recent calamity while attempting PSK31, where I introduced 13.5v  
into microphone jack pin 6 (a 5v line), repairs have been made, and I have made 
 
contacts in both cw and ssb modes.
 
However, I seem to be getting more HI CURRENT warnings on bands and at  power 
levels where previously, I did not.
 
I re-initialized the KAT2, and, as I cycle through L0-L8 and C0-C8, all  
relays provide a nice click.
 
I performed the dc voltage checks at the bottom of KAT2 manual, page  22.  
Everything was fine, except for U4, pin 7 where I got a reading of  4.74v 
instead of the 0v or nearly 0v that the manual implies I should see.   Could 
this be 
the cause of the HI CURRENT warnings?
 
Thanks for your  consideration.   
 73,  Jef Fox kc9gbx
**Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/10075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick.
net/clk;211531132;33070124;e)
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[Elecraft] W1 housing?

2009-02-03 Thread Ken Kopp
Who makes the aftermarket clear plastic housing for the W1?

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5

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[Elecraft] K3 momentary loss of audio

2009-02-03 Thread W7TEA

I was calling a station this morning operating split but not using the sub
receiver.  A couple of times I lost audio while transmitting full QSK.  I
stopped for a split second and then when I transmitted another dit the
audio returned.  Using the latest firmware.  This is the first and only
glitch I've ever experienced.  Has anyone else come across this? 

73, Gary W7TEA
#1001, KRX3, KXV3
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-momentary-loss-of-audio-tp2266439p2266439.html
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Re: [Elecraft] Downloading K3 Config

2009-02-03 Thread Julian, G4ILO



Roy Morris-6 wrote:
 
 I have downloaded the K3 Config information to MY DOCUMENTS.  I renamed
 the file K3 Config.  The file in MY DOCUMENTS was K3 Config.K3 Config. 
 When I clicked on it I got the following:
 
 To open this file Windows needs to know what program created it.  Windows
 can go online to look up automatically, or you can manually select from a
 list of programs on your computer. 
 What do you want to do?
 Use the web service to find the appropriate program.
 Select the program from a list.
 
 I renamed the file: K3 Config (I took the duplication away)
 I then selected XML Editor from the list 
 
 The Config settings then appeared.  Please help me find a better and
 easier way to retrieve my settings.  Thanks.  Roy Morris  W4WFB
 
 
Since the only way to restore the saved configuration is by opening it in
the K3 Utility Restore K3 Configuration From..., the fact that Windows
does not know what to do with files of this type is unimportant. The
.K3Config file type that it is given ensures that it will not be mistakenly
opened (and more disastrously, edited) by another application. Just start
the K3 Utility and open the file from there. If you change the file type to
something else when you save it, or by renaming it afterwards, it won't be
found when you try to restore it.

The saved configuration is a plain text file and it can be opened in
Notepad, in case you want to see what it looks like, but there is nothing
useful - and quite a lot of harm - you can do to it in Notepad, so this is
really not a good idea.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham
Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 
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Re: [Elecraft] Downloading K3 Config

2009-02-03 Thread Dick Dievendorff
The file is a text file, and you can open it in notepad without renaming it.

 

The saved configuration file is just text representation of a dump of a
range of EEPROM addresses.  It doesn't help you understand what each K3
configuration setting is.

 

It's intended use is for the K3 Utility's Restore function.

 

Dick, K6KR

 

 

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Roy Morris
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 1:43 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Downloading K3 Config

 

I have downloaded the K3 Config information to MY DOCUMENTS.  I renamed the
file K3 Config.  The file in MY DOCUMENTS was K3 Config.K3 Config.  When I
clicked on it I got the following:

 

To open this file Windows needs to know what program created it.  Windows
can go online to look up automatically, or you can manually select from a
list of programs on your computer. 

What do you want to do?

Use the web service to find the appropriate program.

Select the program from a list.

 

I renamed the file: K3 Config (I took the duplication away)

I then selected XML Editor from the list 

 

The Config settings then appeared.  Please help me find a better and easier
way to retrieve my settings.  Thanks.  Roy Morris  W4WFB

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[Elecraft] K3 interface to THP 1.5Kfx amp

2009-02-03 Thread Jim Spears
With the ALC mod, Yaesu equivalent BCD band data is present on the DB15
connector.  In order to control the THP amp, I need a cable to go between
the K3 DB15 and the Yaesu 5 pin connector on back of the THP.  This 5 pin
connector does not appear to be a standard 5 pin DIN.  I have the THP cable
that normally would go between a Yaesu rig and the amp but would prefer not
to chop it.  

 

Can someone point me to acquisition of this connector?  With this, I can
easily build up my own custom cable.

 

Jim Spears

N1NK

K3/100 S/N 2295

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[Elecraft] K3 RF knob Broken

2009-02-03 Thread Ron Hinton
Has anyone other then me had one of the inter knobs for the RF or AF gain 
break?  Came in, turned on the rig and reached up and turned the RF gain down 
and low and behold the little knob fell off the shaft.  It was broken right 
where one of the set screws was located.  I see there is no brass bushing in 
the knob for the setscrew to be threaded into.  Do you know where some better 
quality ones can be purchased?

Ron NA9F__
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 question abt voltage at U4, pin7

2009-02-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Check the actual power with an external wattmeter - set the power 
control to 5 watts and transmit, then tell us if the actual power is 
near 5 watts or near the maximum power (12 watts or over).

It is possible that U4 is faulty.  Pin 7 is not used - there are 2 op 
amps in the LM358 package, so if the one having its output at pin 1 is 
OK, power will be controlled and it does not matter what pin 7 does 
because it is connected to nothing.  The power output check above will 
tell if the output at U4 pin 1 is working.

73,
Don W3FPR


kc9...@aol.com wrote:
 After a recent calamity while attempting PSK31, where I introduced 
 13.5v into microphone jack pin 6 (a 5v line), repairs have been made, 
 and I have made contacts in both cw and ssb modes.
  
 However, I seem to be getting more HI CURRENT warnings on bands and at 
 power levels where previously, I did not.
  
 I re-initialized the KAT2, and, as I cycle through L0-L8 and C0-C8, 
 all relays provide a nice click.
  
 I performed the dc voltage checks at the bottom of KAT2 manual, page 
 22.  Everything was fine, except for U4, pin 7 where I got a reading 
 of 4.74v instead of the 0v or nearly 0v that the manual implies I 
 should see.  Could this be the cause of the HI CURRENT warnings?
  
 Thanks for your 
 consideration.73, 
 Jef Fox kc9gbx

 
 Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. 
 http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/10075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;211531132;33070124;e
  

 

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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
 Version: 8.0.233 / Virus Database: 270.10.16/1930 - Release Date: 02/02/09 
 07:51:00

   
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[Elecraft] Elecraft Items For Sale

2009-02-03 Thread
XYL says Ham Radio lost for now; need to pay bills.For Sale: New in original box, unbilt kit KAT 100-1 150W External ATU for the Elecraft K2 $215.00New in original box, unbilt kit T1-K external 20W ATU $125.00New in box, unbilt KAT1 Internal ATU for K1 $100.00New in original box, unbilt kit KPA100 100W PA option for the K2; comes with KPA100UPKT upgrade kt and KPA100SHLDKT-KPA100 Shield kit $390.00I will pay shipping charges with confirmation receipt to destinations in the US. I will only ship within the US.Payment details etc. upon request via email73 es tnxStephen__
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[Elecraft] K2 diffuser installation

2009-02-03 Thread Bill Miner
Hello Elecrafters,
 
I'm working on my first K2 kit.  I finally came to the dreaded diffuser 
installation.  With the diffuser in the correct position and with the spacers 
as called for in the latest manual errata I did not know how to hold this all 
in place for soldering.  
 
The manual suggests the use of a rubber band!  Since I did not have any ESD 
rated rubber bands I decided to use a small plastic clamp that I had on hand 
for small hobby projects.  It worked GREAT!  This small clamp is made by 
Wolfcraft. 
 
A quick web search did not produce this exact clamp but I found some that may 
work as well.  See the link below: 
 
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/exl/exl55663.htm
 
The plastic clamps may not be totally ESD safe so proceed at your own risk.
 
72/73,
Bill - K6WLM
KX1
K2


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RF knob Broken

2009-02-03 Thread Jay Rodaman
I had the same problem, but during construction, probably over tightened the
little set screw, Should remember

It is a radio not a truck

 

Jay

 

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron Hinton
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 7:45 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 RF knob Broken

 

Has anyone other then me had one of the inter knobs for the RF or AF gain
break?  Came in, turned on the rig and reached up and turned the RF gain
down and low and behold the little knob fell off the shaft.  It was broken
right where one of the set screws was located.  I see there is no brass
bushing in the knob for the setscrew to be threaded into.  Do you know where
some better quality ones can be purchased?

 

Ron NA9F

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[Elecraft] [K3] KPA3 12v Sense Mod Question

2009-02-03 Thread Corboy-Poteet




I neglected to check the circuit characteristics before installing the diode that is added for this mod (note to self: don't do this again).

With the diode installed, what I see with my DMM is about 1K ohms to ground (with the DMM set below diode barrier voltage) which, looking at the schematic, seems OK. If I change the DMM to check diode response, I get about 0.5 ohms in the forward direction (again OK). But I also get about 0.5 ohms in the reverse direction which isn't right (unless the the IC on the other end of this circuit has "opposite" polarity).  If you have done this mod, are you seeing similar measurements?



Mike  W5FTD






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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RF knob Broken

2009-02-03 Thread Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604
I had an outer (larger) knob fail.  Elecraft replaced it under warranty.
K3 #22, replacment last week.

73, doug

   From: Ron Hinton rjhin...@verizon.net
   Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 19:45:22 -0500


   Has anyone other then me had one of the inter knobs for the RF or AF =
   gain break?  Came in, turned on the rig and reached up and turned the RF =
   gain down and low and behold the little knob fell off the shaft.  It was =
   broken right where one of the set screws was located.  I see there is no =
   brass bushing in the knob for the setscrew to be threaded into.  Do you =
   know where some better quality ones can be purchased?

   Ron NA9F
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[Elecraft] K3 KDVR3 - Monitoring AF Play

2009-02-03 Thread Geoffrey Downs
When transmitting (via AF PLAY) recordings made off air with AF REC, I would 
find it a convenience for MON to be automatically switched on at a preset 
level for the duration of the replay so that I can hear when I have reached 
the end of the recording I want to tx. Normally I don't have the monitor on 
when txing because I find it distracting. And a press/hold on MON, turning 
it up to the right level (without accidentally affecting PWR or CMP) and at 
the same time pressing PTT and AF PLAY can be a walk/chew gum problem (at 
least for me) when trying to do it quickly :-) Could this be done in 
firmware? Apologies if someone has already asked.

73 to all

Geoff
G3UCK 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RF knob Broken

2009-02-03 Thread wayne burdick
Ron,

Just send a request to pa...@elecraft.com and a new one will be sent 
out immediately. It's possible that either the set screw was 
over-tightened or that there was a defect not caught in QA. Either way, 
we'd like the broken one back so we can get it to the vendor for 
analysis.

This is a custom knob (like the others on the K3), so you won't be able 
to find an exact match elsewhere.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

Ron Hinton wrote:

 Has anyone other then me had one of the inter knobs for the RF or AF 
 gain break?  Came in, turned on the rig and reached up and turned the 
 RF gain down and low and behold the little knob fell off the shaft.  
 It was broken right where one of the set screws was located.  I see 
 there is no brass bushing in the knob for the setscrew to be threaded 
 into.


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RF knob Broken

2009-02-03 Thread Tom Hammond

Ron:

I've seen one other knob broken... as a result of someone having tightened the
setscrew WAY(!!!) too much!  In fact, I rounded off the corners of the little
Allen wrench trying to get the darn thing loose.

Folks (esp. those building their K3s) should be instructed to 'snug' the
setscrews down, rather than TIGHTEN them.

73,

Tom   N0SS

At 18:45 02/03/2009, you wrote:
Has anyone other then me had one of the inter knobs for the RF or AF 
gain break?  Came in, turned on the rig and reached up and turned 
the RF gain down and low and behold the little knob fell off the 
shaft.  It was broken right where one of the set screws was 
located.  I see there is no brass bushing in the knob for the 
setscrew to be threaded into.  Do you know where some better quality 
ones can be purchased?


Ron NA9F
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[Elecraft] KX1 appears dead after KXB3080 PCB installed... ...Help please!

2009-02-03 Thread Shawn Morrow
I have been using my KX1 for the past year or so.  This past weekend I
decided to install the KXB3080 option.  Performing the checkout step after
the KXB3080 PCB install failed normal operation!  Nothing works.  My KX1 now
appears to be mostly dead.  :-0

I am hoping the collective wisdom of the list can confirm or suggest other
possibilities I should check out to try to revive my KX1.  The other thing I
fear is multiple component failures.  Please help!  I am anxious to return
to the air!  (Believe it or not my KX is my station!)

Here is the run down:

The mods to the KX1 PCB (Part 1) went well and passed all the re-alignment
checks.

I installed the KXB3080 PCB fairly easily.  (I did have some problems
removing solder from the plated through hole for L7 near R2.  Ultimately I
also got solder in the adjacent G through hole as well.  I eventually got
these cleared.)

Upon performing the check out step towards the end of the this section (Part
II in the KXB3080 manual) I experienced the following:

Current drain 36mA @ 13V - OK.
LED lit up momentarily, 1 or 2 segments missing, then went dark. (!!)

Subsequent attempts to power up go like this:
NO LED
NO Relay Clicks at power up
Current: 36mA @ 13V
Buttons - unresponsive
White Noise from earphones, volume works
RF Gain and Filter have no affect on the audio
(I did not check RF out.)

I double re-checked the install.  No anomalies were noted.

I opened up the trouble shooting section of the KX1 Manual:

Section 00 - all ok

Section 20 - all regulators are right on: 6V, 5V, 2.7V

Section 26 - U1 Voltage Levels (w/i 10%) Measured @ 13V

  PinSpec  Meas  Pin SpecMeas
   1 5.0   5.015   0   0
   2 5.0   5.016   0   0
   3 4.6   5.017   0   0
   4 4.9   5.018   0   0
   5 4.9   5.019   0   0
   6 3.4   4.3  20 5.0 5.0
   7 1.4 0  21 5.0   0 
   8   0 022 5.0 4.7
   9  .8.823 4.9 4.7
  10  .9.924 5.0 4.8
  11   0 025 5.0 4.8
  12   0 026 4.7 4.8
  13 5.0   5.027 5.0 4.8
  14   0   5.0  28 5.0 4.8

Measurements marked with  are outside the 10% tolerance limit!!  Is it
fair to conclude U1 is toast!?!?

At this point I think I probably fried U1 during the install.  Since its
winter and pretty dry in doors I am guessing ESD got it.  This despite using
an anti-static mat, ...and wrist strap -- *most* of the time. :(

I am hoping the collective wisdom of the list can confirm or suggest other
possibilities I should check out before replacing U1.  The other thing I
fear is that perhaps other components were damaged in the process.

What say you??

Regards, Shawn Morrow
W4SDM




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 AM reception

2009-02-03 Thread Gill W4RYW


I am using an unmodified #705 K3 with the AM filter only. Using amplified
computer speakers with RF filtering. The AM BCB/SW sounds as good or better
than any I have around the house including an old Hallicrafter SX-100 and
two Yaesu's. Better than car AM also.  Maybe the problem on some units could
be related to power supply hum or switch mode PS hash??

good luck

Gill W4RYW
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-AM-reception-tp2254009p2266791.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] Set power and actual measured power all square now

2009-02-03 Thread Greg Buhyoff
Well, within minutes of my posting about the set power (as displayed
by my newest K3) not squaring with what I was seeing on a LP-100A,
Alpha 4510 and Bird wattmeters, I received a detailed email from Gary
at Elecraft with step by step suggestions of things I should check.  I
had already done a TX gain calibration using the K3 Utility option to
automatically go through and do the 5 and 50 watt calibrations and got
a successful calibration message.  Gary suggested I do the WMTR LP
and HP calibration as well and to check the TXG VCE (as Julian also
suggested in his reponse to my original post).

So, I did the full TX cal via the K2 Utility cal again (although I had
done that before a couple of times).  The WMTR cal was pretty much out
of whack and needed quite an adjustment and the TXG VCE was defaulted
at 0 but needed to be adjusted to -2.5 dB.  After I did all this -- I
went back and had the K3 hooked up to my 4510 and into a high quality
1500KW dummy load with a 1.1 SWR and checked power levels from
virtually zip to 120 all within a normal accuracy of the meters and
the coax and load effects.  I double checked everything again using
the LP-100A to validate the Alpha 4510 readings.  All is good.

I love my K3s and one of the big reasons is what happened today --
Elecraft's immediate (and I do mean immediate) response with specific
things to check and do -- and a tip of the hat to this group and
Julian, specifically, who quickly responded with help.

As a member of some other radio groups from other manufacturers
(overseas), I never saw or knew of them to respond to very real and
very big problems with some models of their radios either on or off
list or group.  That is why I bought a second K3 -- not only I have
been pleased with the K3 but the customer service is beyond
expectation and nothing short of superb.  And, I thank the members of
this list whose posts I have read studiously for months before
purchasing my first K3.

73, Greg K2UM
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Re: [Elecraft] Downloading K3 Config

2009-02-03 Thread Roy Morris
It was not clear that I could not download the K3 Config file for printing it 
out.  I now understand that it was NOT intended to be printed out and should 
stay right in the K3 Utility only.  Because I have downloaded this file to MY 
DOCUMENTS and renamed it, I may have corrupted the SAVE K3 CONFIGURATION AS... 
meaning the RESTORE K3 CONFIGURATION FROM.. may also be corrupted.  
Can I just do another SAVE K3 CONFIGURATION AS... from my K3 to K3 UTILITY to 
correct my mess (and stop right there)?  I certainly don't want to try a 
RESTORE to test it out.  Roy Morris  W4WFB__
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[Elecraft] K2 power out

2009-02-03 Thread John
I notice the power output from the K2 reads around 15 watts on the K2 meter but
around 4 watts on a Bird 43 meter.
Is it maybe the K2 meter is generous?  I have noted correct levels on the Bird 
before.
Thanks.
John.

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 appears dead after KXB3080 PCB installed... ...Help please!

2009-02-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Shawn,

KX1 display problems are usually caused by U1, so your suspicions are on 
target.
Before doing anything else, be certain U1 is properly seated in its 
socket.  You should have almost all of the narrow part of the pins 
inserted in the socket.  If that is not the case, press it in - it does 
take a bit of pressure to seat U1.

OTOH, if U1 is already fully seated, you should request a replacement 
for pa...@elecraft.com.

On the voltages you find out of bounds, pins 6 and 7 are inputs to U1 - 
and that means something other than U1 is the cause for the voltage 
being abnormal.  In particular, the pin 6 voltage is sourced at U5 pin 
2.  Check that pin - if the voltage there is 1.4 volts, but is zero at 
U1 pin 6, check your soldering.

The soldering on the KX1 is more critical than most of the other 
Elecraft kits due to the high density of parts.  Your solder connections 
should look like the figures in the Soldering Tutorial at the Elecraft 
Builder's Resource page.

If soldering is the problem, it would be wise to wick away any excess 
solder and re-solder with a 750 deg F iron making certain the solder 
flows on each and every solder pad.

73,
Don W3FPR

73,
Don W3FPR

Shawn Morrow wrote:
 I have been using my KX1 for the past year or so.  This past weekend I
 decided to install the KXB3080 option.  Performing the checkout step after
 the KXB3080 PCB install failed normal operation!  Nothing works.  My KX1 now
 appears to be mostly dead.  :-0

 I am hoping the collective wisdom of the list can confirm or suggest other
 possibilities I should check out to try to revive my KX1.  The other thing I
 fear is multiple component failures.  Please help!  I am anxious to return
 to the air!  (Believe it or not my KX is my station!)

 Here is the run down:

 The mods to the KX1 PCB (Part 1) went well and passed all the re-alignment
 checks.

 I installed the KXB3080 PCB fairly easily.  (I did have some problems
 removing solder from the plated through hole for L7 near R2.  Ultimately I
 also got solder in the adjacent G through hole as well.  I eventually got
 these cleared.)

 Upon performing the check out step towards the end of the this section (Part
 II in the KXB3080 manual) I experienced the following:

   Current drain 36mA @ 13V - OK.
   LED lit up momentarily, 1 or 2 segments missing, then went dark. (!!)

 Subsequent attempts to power up go like this:
   NO LED
   NO Relay Clicks at power up
   Current: 36mA @ 13V
   Buttons - unresponsive
   White Noise from earphones, volume works
   RF Gain and Filter have no affect on the audio
   (I did not check RF out.)

 I double re-checked the install.  No anomalies were noted.

 I opened up the trouble shooting section of the KX1 Manual:

   Section 00 - all ok

   Section 20 - all regulators are right on: 6V, 5V, 2.7V

   Section 26 - U1 Voltage Levels (w/i 10%) Measured @ 13V

   PinSpec  Meas  Pin SpecMeas
1 5.0   5.015   0   0
2 5.0   5.016   0   0
3 4.6   5.017   0   0
4 4.9   5.018   0   0
5 4.9   5.019   0   0
6 3.4   4.3  20 5.0 5.0
7 1.4 0  21 5.0   0 
8   0 022 5.0 4.7
9  .8.823 4.9 4.7
   10  .9.924 5.0 4.8
   11   0 025 5.0 4.8
   12   0 026 4.7 4.8
   13 5.0   5.027 5.0 4.8
   14   0   5.0  28 5.0 4.8

 Measurements marked with  are outside the 10% tolerance limit!!  Is it
 fair to conclude U1 is toast!?!?

 At this point I think I probably fried U1 during the install.  Since its
 winter and pretty dry in doors I am guessing ESD got it.  This despite using
 an anti-static mat, ...and wrist strap -- *most* of the time. :(

 I am hoping the collective wisdom of the list can confirm or suggest other
 possibilities I should check out before replacing U1.  The other thing I
 fear is that perhaps other components were damaged in the process.

 What say you??

 Regards, Shawn Morrow
 W4SDM
   

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RF knob Broken

2009-02-03 Thread Jim
Ron, the AF gain knob fell off here same way. Emailed Elecraft parts and
they sent me one out in a very timely manner.

 

Hope you are enjoying your K3. Still enjoying mine  the nice rig you sold
me.

 

73 de KE4WY Jim

 

  _  

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron Hinton
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 7:45 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 RF knob Broken

 

Has anyone other then me had one of the inter knobs for the RF or AF gain
break?  Came in, turned on the rig and reached up and turned the RF gain
down and low and behold the little knob fell off the shaft.  It was broken
right where one of the set screws was located.  I see there is no brass
bushing in the knob for the setscrew to be threaded into.  Do you know where
some better quality ones can be purchased?

 

Ron NA9F

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Re: [Elecraft] Downloading K3 Config

2009-02-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Roy,

If your K3 settings are OK, then the answer is YES - just save another 
configuration file into a folder of your choosing.

73,
Don W3FPR

Roy Morris wrote:
 It was not clear that I could not download the K3 Config file for 
 printing it out.  I now understand that it was NOT intended to be 
 printed out and should stay right in the K3 Utility only.  Because I 
 have downloaded this file to MY DOCUMENTS and renamed it, I may have 
 corrupted the SAVE K3 CONFIGURATION AS... meaning the RESTORE K3 
 CONFIGURATION FROM.. may also be corrupted. 
 Can I just do another SAVE K3 CONFIGURATION AS... from my K3 to K3 
 UTILITY to correct my mess (and stop right there)?  I certainly don't 
 want to try a RESTORE to test it out.  Roy Morris  W4WFB

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Re: [Elecraft] Downloading K3 Config

2009-02-03 Thread Dick Dievendorff
All will be well.

 

If you have not changed the file, you may just rename it to
MyConfig.K3Config or something like that. I'd recommend the K3Config
extension because that's what all the other saved configurations have.

 

The file contains a CRC check to verify that it hasn't been altered.  If
you've made changes to the file you shouldn't be able to restore from it.
During configuration restore the K3 Utility runs through the file once to
verify that it hasn't been altered, and only if it passes that check does it
start storing configuration data into the rig. So don' t worry too much
about restoring from the wrong place.

 

The thing that you may want to change is the default folder location for
subsequent save/restore.  Here's how I'd suggest finding it.

 

Open the K3 Utility and navigate to the Firmware tab.  Click the default
button.  The file path that is in the local folder for firmware files is
something that ends with \Elecraft\K3 Firmware. All the rest of the path is
common with the default location for storing configuration data.Write
this down someplace (or copy and paste it into a notepad window).

 

Now click the configuration tab and click save configuration as.   At
the top of the Save As dialog is a Save In combobox drop down.  If you
click the down arrow, you should open a tree view that you can navigate
through to follow the same path as you wrote down in the earlier step.  When
you get to Elecraft, you should see K3 Configuration and K3 Firmware.
Click K3 Configuration, that's the default location to store configuration
data.

 

Then go ahead and save a configuration.  When that succeeds, the default
location for saving and restoring firmware files will now be the place you
just saved a configuration into.

 

If you wish, you may copy your earlier config file back to that folder and
try to restore from it.  If it complains of corruption or modification,
then you've changed the file, and restore just won't be able to use it.

 

There may be easier ways to accomplish this (and it takes longer to explain
than to do), but this should get you back to where you were.

 

If this doesn't work for you, I can help  you navigate to the original K3
Configuration folder in another way.

 

Hope this helps!

 

73 de 

Dick, K6KR

 

 

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Roy Morris
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 6:39 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Downloading K3 Config

 

It was not clear that I could not download the K3 Config file for printing
it out.  I now understand that it was NOT intended to be printed out and
should stay right in the K3 Utility only.  Because I have downloaded this
file to MY DOCUMENTS and renamed it, I may have corrupted the SAVE K3
CONFIGURATION AS... meaning the RESTORE K3 CONFIGURATION FROM.. may also be
corrupted.  

Can I just do another SAVE K3 CONFIGURATION AS... from my K3 to K3 UTILITY
to correct my mess (and stop right there)?  I certainly don't want to try a
RESTORE to test it out.  Roy Morris  W4WFB

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RF knob Broken

2009-02-03 Thread WILLIS COOKE
I don't know where to get better ones but I repaired the knobs that broke with 
30 min epoxy and they worked for a while.  I called Elecraft and they sent a 
set under warranty and I bought two more sets.  They are not expensive, but the 
shipping and handling is, co I bought three new sets.  My outer ring broke and 
while I was looking at it the inner knob broke also.  Elecraft could do well if 
they found something better quality.

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
K5EWJ


--- On Tue, 2/3/09, Ron Hinton rjhin...@verizon.net wrote:

 From: Ron Hinton rjhin...@verizon.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 RF knob Broken
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Tuesday, February 3, 2009, 4:45 PM
 Has anyone other then me had one of the inter knobs for the
 RF or AF gain break?  Came in, turned on the rig and reached
 up and turned the RF gain down and low and behold the little
 knob fell off the shaft.  It was broken right where one of
 the set screws was located.  I see there is no brass bushing
 in the knob for the setscrew to be threaded into.  Do you
 know where some better quality ones can be purchased?

 Ron
 NA9F__
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 power out

2009-02-03 Thread Vic K2VCO
John wrote:
 I notice the power output from the K2 reads around 15 watts on the K2 meter 
 but
 around 4 watts on a Bird 43 meter.
 Is it maybe the K2 meter is generous?  I have noted correct levels on the 
 Bird 
 before.

If the K2 does not have the KAT2 or 100 watt amp installed, the RF power 
indication is 
based on a simple RF voltmeter, and is very sensitive to the impedance of the 
load. If you 
do not have a very accurate 50 ohm dummy load connected, the K2's output meter 
will be 
inaccurate.
-- 
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RF knob Broken

2009-02-03 Thread Jim
Metal or Brass insert! Not just plastic.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of WILLIS COOKE
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 10:14 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 RF knob Broken

I don't know where to get better ones but I repaired the knobs that broke
with 30 min epoxy and they worked for a while.  I called Elecraft and they
sent a set under warranty and I bought two more sets.  They are not
expensive, but the shipping and handling is, co I bought three new sets.  My
outer ring broke and while I was looking at it the inner knob broke also.
Elecraft could do well if they found something better quality.

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
K5EWJ


--- On Tue, 2/3/09, Ron Hinton rjhin...@verizon.net wrote:

 From: Ron Hinton rjhin...@verizon.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 RF knob Broken
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Tuesday, February 3, 2009, 4:45 PM
 Has anyone other then me had one of the inter knobs for the
 RF or AF gain break?  Came in, turned on the rig and reached
 up and turned the RF gain down and low and behold the little
 knob fell off the shaft.  It was broken right where one of
 the set screws was located.  I see there is no brass bushing
 in the knob for the setscrew to be threaded into.  Do you
 know where some better quality ones can be purchased?

 Ron
 NA9F__
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[Elecraft] K3 main/sub band independence -- need more firmware testers

2009-02-03 Thread wayne burdick
Hi all,

The K3's main/sub band independence functionality is working quite 
well. To get it finalized, I'd like to find a few more enthusiastic 
testers to pound on it. The present code (rev 2.92) is at field-test 
level, so this is not for the risk-averse.

Please e-mail me directly if you're interested. I already have several 
names on my list and will be contacting everyone tomorrow.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] K2 power out.

2009-02-03 Thread John
Measuring K2 power into measured 50 ohm dummy load.

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[Elecraft] Elecraft XG2 Signal Generator and 160m

2009-02-03 Thread Missouri Guy
Hi Gents,

No question here, but I did want to post this in case
someone else wants to operate his XG2 on 160m
instead of 80m

I ordered a crystal from Mouser, part number
520-HCA184-13X for 1843 khz.  The XG2 wouldn't
oscillate with the new crystal.  Bob, N6CM, designed
the device, so I asked him for some pointers.  He
explained it this way (thanks Bob!):

What happens is that because of the small
crystal blank, the series resistance goes up as the frequency goes
down.  You can try increasing C1/C2 by first 50% or so and then 100%
to get 160 working but it's possible that you may lose 20.  It all
depends on the particular 20 meter crystal that you have.

I changed C1 to 33pf from 18pf, and C2 to 100pf from 47pf.
The XG2 now oscillates well on 20, 40 and with the new 
160m xtal.  

73,
Charlie, N0TT__
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[Elecraft] K2 PLL reference oscillator range is zero -- problem SOLVED

2009-02-03 Thread David Johnson
Hello Don and the group,

  I just wanted to let everyone know what caused this problem and throw out a 
couple of things that I learned that might be helpful to others:

 1.  The problem was caused by the failure of U5 (LTC1451) on the RF board.  
After removal of the chip it showed a permanent internal short between pin 3 
(the serial interface line going to MCU pin 19) and pin 5, which is ground.  So 
the whole serial input line was just being permanently held at ground 
potential, making it impossible for the MCU pin 19 to ever rise to 5 volts.

 2. If you have K2 manual Revisions E or G (and maybe others), page 9 of 
Appendix A lists the part number for U5 as E600016, which is the same as the 
part number listed five lines down for U4.  I ordered a replacement U5 by the 
part number and received U4 instead (hey, at least I had a 50% chance!).  
Anyway, Scott at Elecraft was very helpful and got it all straightened out for 
me, but for all of you really concientious types out there, change the part 
number for U5 in your manual on page 9 to E600030 which is the actual part 
number.

3.  The voltage chart on page 17 of Appendix E shows a value on pin 7 of U5 of 
0 to 4.  You might want to make a note in the bottom margin of page 17 that 
the voltage varies from 2.0 volts to almost 3.6 volts, varying linearly across 
that range as the VFO knob is tuned through each successive 5 khz range.

4.  Finally, I just want to mention something that everyone who has been on 
this list for more than a week already knows well. We all owe Don, W3FPR a huge 
and endless THANK YOU for his tireless and expert assistance to all of us, week 
in and week out.  Don really helped me zero in on this particular problem and 
over the years in reading all of his posts I have learned a tremendous amount 
about using and understanding the elecraft radios. Thanks Don!

  -- Dave WB4JTT


--- On Tue, 1/6/09, Don Wilhelm d...@w3fpr.com wrote:

 From: Don Wilhelm d...@w3fpr.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 PLL reference oscillator range is zero
 To: wb4...@yahoo.com
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Tuesday, January 6, 2009, 10:55 PM
 Dave,
 
 Your measurement on SCK is correct - the manual is wrong
 for that one.  If you look at it with a 'scope, you will
 see negative going pulses when the clock is active (turn the
 VFO knob to generate a few pulses.
 
 I believe your problem is with the /DAC2CS signal which I
 just verified as 5 volts when measured as a DC signal, but
 like the SCK signal has negative going pulses when the VFO
 knob is turned.  Since your K2 /DAC2CS is at zero volts, the
 DAC is being gated for data-in at all times, so when the
 data is not being clocked to the DAC, it thinks the data
 bits in the data stream are all inactive, and the analog
 output goes to zero volts.
 
 Your readings at U6 pins 33 and 38 are in the range of
 normal readings.  Pin 38 is active positive and is normally
 low with frequent positive going pulses, so the DC voltage
 measured can vary depending on the time constant of the
 meter used, and pin 33 is also active high, being normally
 low and having less frequent positive pulses than those on
 pin 38 - so its DC average voltage will be less than that on
 pin 38 - how much depends on your meter.
 
 I don't know if your digital skill level was adequate
 to follow all of that explanation, but the bottom line is
 that something is not working between the microprocessor
 (Control Board U6) pin 19 and RF Board U5 pin 3.  Go back to
 CB U6 pin 19 and measure the voltage there - if the voltage
 is 5 volts there while being 0 volts at RF U5 pin 3, there
 is a break in the path - that includes the CB to RF board
 connectors - find the break and fix it (you can verify the
 fix with a continuity check on your DMM). 
 OTOH, if the voltage is zero at both places, the problem is
 *either* a bad microprocessor output or a shorted RF Board
 U5 pin 3.  The best way to determine which it is requires
 removing U5.  If the voltage goes to 5 volts with U5
 removed, the microprocessor is good and U5 is bad - but if
 it stays at zero volts, then the microprocessor needs to be
 replaced.
 
 There is another way to check if you do not have
 de-soldering equipment and cannot easily remove U5.  Remove
 Control Board U6 from its socket and insert the ends of a
 resistor (470 ohms to 2,2k will do nicely for this check)
 between U6 pins 11 and 19 (count carefully).  Then power the
 K2 on (do not expect a display or anything else to happen),
 then measure the voltage at RF Board U5 pin 3 - if it is 5
 volts, U5 is OK, get a new K2 firmware chip - but if the
 voltage is zero at U5 pin 3, replace U5.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 Back to your problem with the U5 output
 
 David Johnson wrote:
  Don and the group,
  
I have not yet solved this problem, but upon further
 troubleshooting a recurrent theme seems to be that the clock
 signal (SCK), which appears at pin 18 of MCU U6, pin 6 of
 EEPROM U7 and pin 10 of U8 on the 

[Elecraft] K3 RF knob Broken.

2009-02-03 Thread Mike
Yep! I broke one too. Has since held up ok helped by a couple of small 
spots of epoxy glue -  now I'm more careful with the Allen wrench!


73 de Mike, zl1mh.
K2s #0681  2681.
K3 #0215.
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.233 / Virus Database: 270.10.17/1932 - Release Date: 02/03/09 
07:57:00
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 power out

2009-02-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,

Assuming you have only the basic K2 - no KAT2, KAT100 or KPA100 
installed,  and you are operating into a good 50 ohm non-reactive dummy 
load (check it at frequency with an antenna analyzer - a simple 
resistance measurement will not be adequate) - then normally, the K2 
power display is quite accurate.  Since yours is apparently not, check 
all the factors above and then if still inaccurate, check R67, R68, D9, 
R69 and R66 on the K2 RF board.  Check for value and for good soldering.

The power display for the basic K2 depends highly on having a 
non-reactive 50 ohm load connected, since this is a simple diode 
detector circuit.

Given your stated observations, is there any chance that you 
interchanged R67 with R68?

73,
Don W3FPR

John wrote:
 I notice the power output from the K2 reads around 15 watts on the K2 
 meter but
 around 4 watts on a Bird 43 meter.
 Is it maybe the K2 meter is generous?  I have noted correct levels on 
 the Bird
 before.
 Thanks.
 John.
  
 

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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
 Version: 8.0.233 / Virus Database: 270.10.16/1930 - Release Date: 02/02/09 
 07:51:00

   
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[Elecraft] ECO for SPOT Control

2009-02-03 Thread The Smiths

I would like to suggest an upgrade for the SPOT control function.  As you 
know, the SPOT function changes the Main VFO's frequency to Beat Frequency a 
CW signal.  This function is wonderful when used to tune in a received signal 
within the CWT area.  However, if after sending a CQ, and having someone answer 
you, you hit the SPOT control, you once again move your Main VFO off frequency. 
This risks the other party answering your CQ from being able to find you once 
again.My suggestion would be to allow for the SPOT button to function as a RIT 
only control when the RIT button is engaged.  If the RIT button is NOT engaged, 
then the Main VFO would move as normal.  OR if the XIT button is engaged, then 
the SPOT function would also work as it does currently.Having the SPOT work as 
a RIT control when the RIT button is engaged, would make it MUCH easier for a 
user (contester etc..) to send a CQ, wait for an answer, then align the K3 to 
the answering parties BFO frequency, without moving the Main VFO frequency. 
Thus, Making the RIT knob a secondary tool for finding people too off center 
to capture in the CWT area.I would love to see some feedback on this new 
feature, and ask that it gets implemented in the software if enough people 
agree with me.  If you don't understand, or need further explanation please let 
me know.Michael AretskyN6MQL
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 main/sub band independence -- need more firmware testers

2009-02-03 Thread Bob Cunnings
Does this allow setting VFO A and VFO B to different bands for units
without the sub-receiver?

Bob NW8L

On Tue, Feb 3, 2009 at 8:22 PM, wayne burdick n...@elecraft.com wrote:
 Hi all,

 The K3's main/sub band independence functionality is working quite
 well. To get it finalized, I'd like to find a few more enthusiastic
 testers to pound on it. The present code (rev 2.92) is at field-test
 level, so this is not for the risk-averse.

 Please e-mail me directly if you're interested. I already have several
 names on my list and will be contacting everyone tomorrow.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR

 ---

 http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] FW: ECO for SPOT Control

2009-02-03 Thread Jim Garland
 

I think this is a really good suggestion. I don't see any downside to it. I
constantly use the RIT control on CW, and it would be very convenient to use
the auto spot feature without changing the transmit frequency.

 

Jim W8ZR

 

  _  

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of The Smiths
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 9:54 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] ECO for SPOT Control

 

I would like to suggest an upgrade for the SPOT control function.  As you
know, the SPOT function changes the Main VFO's frequency to Beat Frequency
a CW signal.  This function is wonderful when used to tune in a received
signal within the CWT area.  However, if after sending a CQ, and having
someone answer you, you hit the SPOT control, you once again move your Main
VFO off frequency. This risks the other party answering your CQ from being
able to find you once again.
My suggestion would be to allow for the SPOT button to function as a RIT
only control when the RIT button is engaged.  If the RIT button is NOT
engaged, then the Main VFO would move as normal.  OR if the XIT button is
engaged, then the SPOT function would also work as it does currently.
Having the SPOT work as a RIT control when the RIT button is engaged, would
make it MUCH easier for a user (contester etc..) to send a CQ, wait for an
answer, then align the K3 to the answering parties BFO frequency, without
moving the Main VFO frequency. Thus, Making the RIT knob a secondary tool
for finding people too off center to capture in the CWT area.
I would love to see some feedback on this new feature, and ask that it gets
implemented in the software if enough people agree with me.  If you don't
understand, or need further explanation please let me know.
Michael Aretsky
N6MQL

  _  

Windows LiveT HotmailR.more than just e-mail. See how it works.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_hm_justgotbetter_how
itworks_012009 

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[Elecraft] ECO for Headphone MIX

2009-02-03 Thread The Smiths

I would like to suggest an upgrade to be added to the Headphone/speaker mode or 
AFX menu.  As you know, now when you listen to the main and the sub receiver in 
your stereo headphone, or stereo speakers, you hear the Main VFO in the Left 
speaker (headset) and the Sub Receiver in the Right speaker (headset).  When 
using the speakers or headphones in this mode, with Diversity on, using 2 
different polarized antennas, the signal will roll from left ear to right ear 
(or vis versa).  This changing of CW tones (or SSB Audio) can become very 
difficult to deal with. In some cases, almost causing a rocking boat affect on 
your head.I would like to suggest that there be an additional menu choice 
(either in the Headphone/speakers or AFX menu) that allows for a MIX mode.  
This mode would allow for 100% Main receiver in the left ear, WITH 50% Sub 
receiver in the left ear as well. And 100% Sub receiver in the right ear, WITH 
50% Main receiver in the right ear.  This would allow for a very smooth 
transition between the two phases of antennas when doing Diversity mode, or 
other Dual mode reception.  Thus stopping the rocking boat motion in your 
ears.I would like some feed back on this suggestion, and would like to see it 
implemented in the next software update if other find it usefull.  If you do 
not understand it, or need further explanation, please let me know.  
Thanks,Michael AretskyN6MQL
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RF knob Broken

2009-02-03 Thread f5moo
same probleme here the serial number here 153 any garantie !
thank s
terry F5MOO


Ron Hinton a écrit :
 Has anyone other then me had one of the inter knobs for the RF or AF 
 gain break?  Came in, turned on the rig and reached up and turned the 
 RF gain down and low and behold the little knob fell off the shaft.  
 It was broken right where one of the set screws was located.  I see 
 there is no brass bushing in the knob for the setscrew to be threaded 
 into.  Do you know where some better quality ones can be purchased?
  
 Ron NA9F
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RF knob Broken

2009-02-03 Thread Gary NL7Y



Has anyone other then me had one of the inter knobs for the RF or AF gain
break?  
Ron NA9F

Had two crack S/N 2324, one ea. inner and outer. Called Elecraft Parts, and
replacements send no questions. Removing the cracked knobs took too much
torque on the small set screws. The set screws were too tight at Factory
assy I believe. I used the small end of the supplied Allen wrenches to just
tighten, not the long end. So far so good. Will send in defective parts, but
I believe they were just over-tightened. I checked the rest of the knobs and
they were not as tight, but reset them anyway.

Small annoyance on an otherwise excellent product. Thanks Elecraft.

73 Gary NL7Y
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Re: [Elecraft] ECO for SPOT Control

2009-02-03 Thread W6NEK
Hi Michael,
That is a meaningful and outstanding suggestion.  I would really like to see 
Elecraft add it to the List.

Frank - W6NEK

- Original Message - 
From: The Smiths
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 8:54 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] ECO for SPOT Control


I would like to suggest an upgrade for the SPOT control function.  As you 
know, the SPOT function changes the Main VFO's frequency to Beat Frequency 
a CW signal.  This function is wonderful when used to tune in a received 
signal within the CWT area.  However, if after sending a CQ, and having 
someone answer you, you hit the SPOT control, you once again move your Main 
VFO off frequency. This risks the other party answering your CQ from being 
able to find you once again.
My suggestion would be to allow for the SPOT button to function as a RIT 
only control when the RIT button is engaged.  If the RIT button is NOT 
engaged, then the Main VFO would move as normal.  OR if the XIT button is 
engaged, then the SPOT function would also work as it does currently.
Having the SPOT work as a RIT control when the RIT button is engaged, would 
make it MUCH easier for a user (contester etc..) to send a CQ, wait for an 
answer, then align the K3 to the answering parties BFO frequency, without 
moving the Main VFO frequency. Thus, Making the RIT knob a secondary tool 
for finding people too off center to capture in the CWT area.
I would love to see some feedback on this new feature, and ask that it gets 
implemented in the software if enough people agree with me.  If you don't 
understand, or need further explanation please let me know.
Michael Aretsky
N6MQL

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KDVR3 - Monitoring AF Play

2009-02-03 Thread David Pratt
In a recent message, Geoffrey Downs geoff...@downs.globalnet.co.uk 
wrote ...

When transmitting (via AF PLAY) recordings made off air with AF REC, I would
find it a convenience for MON to be automatically switched on at a preset
level for the duration of the replay so that I can hear when I have reached
the end of the recording I want to tx.

I am finding exactly the same, Geoff, and am hoping that this problem 
will be overcome in an early future firmware update.  The same applies 
with outgoing pre-recorded messages. It would be useful if the MON level 
automatically went up to, say, 30 during playback.

73
-- 
David G4DMP
Leeds, England, UK
--


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