[Elecraft] K3- support courtesy

[Johnny Siu]

Hello Bill,
 
As an overseas user, the only communication means for me with Elecraft is via 
email.  From my past experience with the support crew in elecraft, they gave me 
their replies well within 24 hours.
 
Don is correct that the repair technicians are not necessarily the same crews 
in support section.  The RSA# issued by Elecraft is very good reference for 
communication with them.  In my correspondence with elecraft, I always 
include my callsign, K3 serial number and RSA#.
 
Again, as said by Don, Madelyn will be a good point of contact by giving her 
your RSA#.  She has great patience in answering questions.  I once asked her 
about the details of overseas shipping costs.  She took the trouble to give me 
comprehensive answers.
 
When you get back your repaired K3 from Elecraft, you will be given a 
summary report with information of contact personal.  You can contact that 
particular technician / elecraft staff if you have further questions about the 
repair.
 
The above was my own personal experience.  For my own educational purpose, I 
did write to the technician who repaired my radio for further technical details 
of the repair work done. 

TNX  73,


Johnny VR2XMC



 寄件人︰ Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
收件人︰ Bill b...@w2blc.net 
副本(CC)︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
傳送日期︰ 2012年08月7日 (週二) 11:57 AM
主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] K3- support courtesy
  
Bill,

While it has no excuse, let me share some possible facts that may have 
contributed to your lack of a timely response.

I suspect that there is a contributing factor - the repair person 
working on your K3 (or scheduled for the repair) did not receive your 
email that was directed to supp...@elecraft.com - because the support 
people usually do not know the person to whom that email should be 
forwarded.

If you included your call and the RSA number in the subject of the 
email, that should have been resolved - those two items of information 
are the quickest paths to getting a valid response.  Not all techs doing 
repairs monitor the traffic on the supp...@elecraft.com emails.  For 
instance, I do repairs on the Elecraft legacy gear, and I do not monitor 
emails to supp...@elecraft.com - that is just too much traffic for me to 
handle properly.  If those wanting status on gear I have here for repair 
do not send to d...@elecraft.com, it may be a while before I get the 
information.  Your call and the RSA number in the subject of the email 
are important for it to get prompt attention.

What that means is - if a customer sends a query about the status of a 
repair I am handling to supp...@elecraft.com, it will be quite a while 
before someone figures out that I have been assigned to that repair and 
I finally get the email query.

Madelyn hands out the RSA work to the available techs, so an email to 
made...@elecraft.com will usually obtain a timely response - she knows 
where to direct the question.

Sorry for your lack of response, and I hope my explanation will help you 
to understand why you did not receive a response.  I know that is an 
excuse, but is really the way it is.  Perhaps someone will come up 
with a solution, but for the real- time interval, supp...@elecraft.com 
is the place for questions until an RSA has been issued, and after that 
an email to made...@elecraft.com (or sa...@elecraft.com) is the quickest 
way to route your question to the proper place.

Repairs are done all over the globe - yes, Watsonville, CA, but also 
Arizona and North Carolina as well as in Japan, and Germany and Italy.

Again, once an RSA has been issued, your short path to status 
information is to contact the person you shipped the transceiver to (if 
you know that), but lacking that information (because it was shipped to 
Watsonville), contact made...@elecraft.com or sa...@elecraft.com.

OK, I am not trying to make apologies or excuses, I am hopefully 
communicating the real world situation of what exists today and giving 
you some clues as to how to best work with the current conditions.

Elecraft is expanding - there are at least 2 additional people in the 
sales office that I have not yet been introduced to (I only see their 
names - I am in North Carolina and communicate mostly via email), and 
there have been additional people in the support organization that I 
have not yet had encounters with.  That may mean that it is time to 
review the old communication paths that worked well with a smaller 
staff, but those older paths may now have some failings and may be in 
need of updating or further coordination - I leave that question and 
answer to Wayne and Eric..

73,
Don W3FPR


73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/6/2012 9:19 PM, Bill wrote:
 My K3 has been at Elecraft for a week for warranty repairs (out of
 service for three weeks). So, I dropped an email early today asking what
 the status of repairs was. I never got a reply. So, after a few hours I
 sent the email again - after all, emails do sometimes fail to get
 through. Before 

[Elecraft] W1 Found!

[NZ8J]

I found a nice W1 wattmeter from a fellow list member.. Thanks to all
who responded
73
Tim
Nz8J
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[Elecraft] looking for some K2 options

[Johnny Siu]

Hello Group,
 
I am looking for the following K2 options in the used market with a view to 
saving some money:
 
KIO2
KAF2
KBT2 (without battery)
 
Built, unbuilt or partly built kits will be good enough.  Since all these 
modules are very light weight and can be sent by padded envelope, shipping to 
Hong Kong by USPS should not be expensive.  I can pay you by paypal or a check 
drawn from HSBC USA.
 
Please reply off-the-list.

TNX  73,


Johnny VR2XMC   
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Re: [Elecraft] Newbie

[va3bxg]

Based on the amount of questions and topics there is three areas of 
questions/improvements/additions to the guide I would suggest updating, given 
the admittedly targeting of new/lack of experience hams

1) Digital operations. The how. What cable to hook where. The method of 
operation. Some of this In part, maybe outside the intention of the manual, but 
there is still quite a bit that should be added. Just look at the questions 
that are posted here and on KX3 reflector

2) The whole area of the AGC/filter/setup. (And this is really where the manual 
lacks info for the new owner/newbie in my uneducated opinion) Again the number 
of questions from both newbies and experienced hams make it evident that 
information needs to be enhanced (true some people will never read the manual, 
but at least one can be directed to it, if the question a raises) this is where 
I am truly still having issues. Some hams here talk about the menu option to 
decrease/increase the AGC yet us 'new' guys have yet the complete understanding 
of what the AGC is supposedly doing and what the menu changing actual does.

3) Power. Now admittedly I believe that has been covered in the manual 
appropriately. The questions still come. The differences between LiPo LiFePo4 
as an example. I did ask the down to basic question and got some responses 
which I am still trying to digest. But as a side note and a related topic (and 
something that can be included in the new versions of the manual) is a section 
on travel. According to current US and international travel restrictions, what 
can and cannot be brought onboard. Yes they will change, but so will other 
items in the manual due to upgrades etc. Questions have been placed by all 
types of hams, on which battery can be carried on, side equipment etc. Again 
this may be not the high priority on the contents of the manual, but a truly 
nice to have. 

I truly believe that number #1  #2 of my list should be included/updated 
within the manual. #3 is a nice to have but based on the questions also 
something to consider

And if it is not possible, what about a series of entries in the elecraft FAQ 
(my second choice)

I will borrow someone else sig. Here and say

Ok back to my hole

a 'kosher ham'

Robert

-Original Message-
From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 21:17:38 
To: Robert Galambosva3...@gmail.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Newbie

Robert,

We did include a lot of material for first-time users, but we had to  
draw the line somewhere. We're planning to expand the digital section,  
and we'll always be improving it based on user feedback.

Meanwhile, if there are specific areas you'd like to know more about,  
just ask. Our reflector is a great place to start. There's also the  
ARRL Handbook, and other League guides to just about everything.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Aug 6, 2012, at 8:22 PM, Robert Galambos wrote:

 i am also a newbie (i was the one who asked where the volume control
 was...boy did i get flack for that one)

 but i must tell you the manual could be really revamped up, to the  
 point
 that newbies can use it. right now, you may think that it is designed
 with less experienced operators, but , in my opinion falls very  
 short in
 that regard.

 the digital section is lacking on some practical information on where
 cables should be used where (there are/were a lot of question about  
 that
 here and the KX3 reflector that proves my point)

 while there is more practical information the a ICOM manual, it is not
 anywhere close to where a new person can read it and use it as solely
 use it reference material

 On 12-08-06 9:59 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Ralph,

 I am going to assume the KX3, but you do need to specify the type  
 in the
 subject line for the best results.

 The KXBC3 option is not yet available, so you need to ignore that  
 part
 of the manual.  It will do what it says when installed.  Note that  
 it is
 an option, and not required.  Until that option is available, you  
 will
 have to remove the batteries for re-charging (also the clock will  
 be
 rest to zero when you power off).

 Newbies are welcome right here - ask away, and you will usually  
 find a
 response in short order.

 The KX3 manual itself has a lot of how-to information in it.  I
 suggest you sit down with your KX3 along with the manual and walk
 through the procedures as you read the manual.

 There is also a Yahoo Group for the KX3, but much of the  
 information is
 duplicated on this reflector.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 8/6/2012 8:03 PM, Ralph Bagwell wrote:
 Is there a newbie section ? I read the manual and still have  
 difficulty with simple operations . ( I just opened the box )

 I'm still trying to understand how to charge the batteries  ( for  
 instance ) - I hate to experiment on such a nice piece of gear -  
 I'd like absolute detail on how-to rather than clicking and  
 turning knobs at almost random to do simple things . 

[Elecraft] email response from Elecraft

[Robert Emory]

As a suggestion perhaps Elecraft could set up their email server
to automatically generate a response to every email that it has
been received (and maybe a thank you) and a reply will be
forth coming.
Then the sender would know their email had been received.
Just a thought,
Bob (KD1CT)
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Re: [Elecraft] email response from Elecraft

[Bill]

Excellent idea - takes the guess work out of emails.


-- 
IN GOD I TRUST (but, NOT a single politician)
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Re: [Elecraft] Newbie

[Matt Maguire]

Hi Robert,

Wayne said they they plan to beef up the digital modes section of the manual, 
so it will be interesting to see what information they put there. The challenge 
is that there are so many possible setups that it is just not practical to 
cover them all.

Concerning your questions around AGC, Don W3FPR has written an excellent 
article on this topic, and you can find it on his web page:
http://www.w3fpr.com/K3_AGC.htm

I would question whether a detailed treatment of the different types of 
batteries available is really appropriate for a radio user manual, but it would 
certainly be an excellent topic for an FAQ article.

73, Matt VK2ACL

On 07/08/2012, at 8:54 PM, va3...@gmail.com wrote:

 Based on the amount of questions and topics there is three areas of 
 questions/improvements/additions to the guide I would suggest updating, given 
 the admittedly targeting of new/lack of experience hams
 
 1) Digital operations. The how. What cable to hook where. The method of 
 operation. Some of this In part, maybe outside the intention of the manual, 
 but there is still quite a bit that should be added. Just look at the 
 questions that are posted here and on KX3 reflector
 
 2) The whole area of the AGC/filter/setup. (And this is really where the 
 manual lacks info for the new owner/newbie in my uneducated opinion) Again 
 the number of questions from both newbies and experienced hams make it 
 evident that information needs to be enhanced (true some people will never 
 read the manual, but at least one can be directed to it, if the question a 
 raises) this is where I am truly still having issues. Some hams here talk 
 about the menu option to decrease/increase the AGC yet us 'new' guys have yet 
 the complete understanding of what the AGC is supposedly doing and what the 
 menu changing actual does.
 
 3) Power. Now admittedly I believe that has been covered in the manual 
 appropriately. The questions still come. The differences between LiPo LiFePo4 
 as an example. I did ask the down to basic question and got some responses 
 which I am still trying to digest. But as a side note and a related topic 
 (and something that can be included in the new versions of the manual) is a 
 section on travel. According to current US and international travel 
 restrictions, what can and cannot be brought onboard. Yes they will change, 
 but so will other items in the manual due to upgrades etc. Questions have 
 been placed by all types of hams, on which battery can be carried on, side 
 equipment etc. Again this may be not the high priority on the contents of the 
 manual, but a truly nice to have. 
 
 I truly believe that number #1  #2 of my list should be included/updated 
 within the manual. #3 is a nice to have but based on the questions also 
 something to consider
 
 And if it is not possible, what about a series of entries in the elecraft FAQ 
 (my second choice)
 
 I will borrow someone else sig. Here and say
 
 Ok back to my hole
 
 a 'kosher ham'
 
 Robert
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
 Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 21:17:38 
 To: Robert Galambosva3...@gmail.com
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Newbie
 
 Robert,
 
 We did include a lot of material for first-time users, but we had to  
 draw the line somewhere. We're planning to expand the digital section,  
 and we'll always be improving it based on user feedback.
 
 Meanwhile, if there are specific areas you'd like to know more about,  
 just ask. Our reflector is a great place to start. There's also the  
 ARRL Handbook, and other League guides to just about everything.
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
 
 On Aug 6, 2012, at 8:22 PM, Robert Galambos wrote:
 
 i am also a newbie (i was the one who asked where the volume control
 was...boy did i get flack for that one)
 
 but i must tell you the manual could be really revamped up, to the  
 point
 that newbies can use it. right now, you may think that it is designed
 with less experienced operators, but , in my opinion falls very  
 short in
 that regard.
 
 the digital section is lacking on some practical information on where
 cables should be used where (there are/were a lot of question about  
 that
 here and the KX3 reflector that proves my point)
 
 while there is more practical information the a ICOM manual, it is not
 anywhere close to where a new person can read it and use it as solely
 use it reference material
 
 On 12-08-06 9:59 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Ralph,
 
 I am going to assume the KX3, but you do need to specify the type  
 in the
 subject line for the best results.
 
 The KXBC3 option is not yet available, so you need to ignore that  
 part
 of the manual.  It will do what it says when installed.  Note that  
 it is
 an option, and not required.  Until that option is available, you  
 will
 have to remove the batteries for re-charging (also the clock will  
 be
 rest to zero when you power off).
 
 Newbies are welcome right here - ask away, and 

Re: [Elecraft] Newbie

[va3bxg]

While I agree about the various aspects of the Digital aspect. But a basic 
setup so one can cover what is needed to start is something that I believe 
would be an asset.

Batteries is something that always come up. and an faq is probably more 
appropriate

I will be reading the article and it seems interesting. But this is still 
something that I believe should be included as not only a general conversation, 
but a also specific aspect of the KX3 and its setting
a 'kosher ham'

Robert

-Original Message-
From: Matt Maguire vk2...@gmail.com
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 21:38:06 
To: va3...@gmail.com
Cc: Elecraft listelecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Newbie

Hi Robert,

Wayne said they they plan to beef up the digital modes section of the manual, 
so it will be interesting to see what information they put there. The challenge 
is that there are so many possible setups that it is just not practical to 
cover them all.

Concerning your questions around AGC, Don W3FPR has written an excellent 
article on this topic, and you can find it on his web page:
http://www.w3fpr.com/K3_AGC.htm

I would question whether a detailed treatment of the different types of 
batteries available is really appropriate for a radio user manual, but it would 
certainly be an excellent topic for an FAQ article.

73, Matt VK2ACL

On 07/08/2012, at 8:54 PM, va3...@gmail.com wrote:

 Based on the amount of questions and topics there is three areas of 
 questions/improvements/additions to the guide I would suggest updating, given 
 the admittedly targeting of new/lack of experience hams
 
 1) Digital operations. The how. What cable to hook where. The method of 
 operation. Some of this In part, maybe outside the intention of the manual, 
 but there is still quite a bit that should be added. Just look at the 
 questions that are posted here and on KX3 reflector
 
 2) The whole area of the AGC/filter/setup. (And this is really where the 
 manual lacks info for the new owner/newbie in my uneducated opinion) Again 
 the number of questions from both newbies and experienced hams make it 
 evident that information needs to be enhanced (true some people will never 
 read the manual, but at least one can be directed to it, if the question a 
 raises) this is where I am truly still having issues. Some hams here talk 
 about the menu option to decrease/increase the AGC yet us 'new' guys have yet 
 the complete understanding of what the AGC is supposedly doing and what the 
 menu changing actual does.
 
 3) Power. Now admittedly I believe that has been covered in the manual 
 appropriately. The questions still come. The differences between LiPo LiFePo4 
 as an example. I did ask the down to basic question and got some responses 
 which I am still trying to digest. But as a side note and a related topic 
 (and something that can be included in the new versions of the manual) is a 
 section on travel. According to current US and international travel 
 restrictions, what can and cannot be brought onboard. Yes they will change, 
 but so will other items in the manual due to upgrades etc. Questions have 
 been placed by all types of hams, on which battery can be carried on, side 
 equipment etc. Again this may be not the high priority on the contents of the 
 manual, but a truly nice to have. 
 
 I truly believe that number #1  #2 of my list should be included/updated 
 within the manual. #3 is a nice to have but based on the questions also 
 something to consider
 
 And if it is not possible, what about a series of entries in the elecraft FAQ 
 (my second choice)
 
 I will borrow someone else sig. Here and say
 
 Ok back to my hole
 
 a 'kosher ham'
 
 Robert
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
 Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 21:17:38 
 To: Robert Galambosva3...@gmail.com
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Newbie
 
 Robert,
 
 We did include a lot of material for first-time users, but we had to  
 draw the line somewhere. We're planning to expand the digital section,  
 and we'll always be improving it based on user feedback.
 
 Meanwhile, if there are specific areas you'd like to know more about,  
 just ask. Our reflector is a great place to start. There's also the  
 ARRL Handbook, and other League guides to just about everything.
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
 
 On Aug 6, 2012, at 8:22 PM, Robert Galambos wrote:
 
 i am also a newbie (i was the one who asked where the volume control
 was...boy did i get flack for that one)
 
 but i must tell you the manual could be really revamped up, to the  
 point
 that newbies can use it. right now, you may think that it is designed
 with less experienced operators, but , in my opinion falls very  
 short in
 that regard.
 
 the digital section is lacking on some practical information on where
 cables should be used where (there are/were a lot of question about  
 that
 here and the KX3 reflector that proves my point)
 
 while there is more practical 

[Elecraft] Menu parameters via macro

[W4ATK]

I have had no success at accessing menu parameters via MNxxx, MPxxx, 
and/or MQxxx commands.

The book sez:  MN acceses menu entries. MP can then be used (in some 
cases) to read or set the parameter value. Based on this I should be able to do 
the following:

MN115;  (enter the menu)
MP115;  (acquire or set the value)
MN255;  (exit the menu)

So far, nothing.

JIm, W4ATK

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Re: [Elecraft] Newbie

[Matt Zilmer]

Hi Ralph,

The KX3 was developed to appeal to and be used by newbies as well as
experienced operators.  The best way to learn the KX3 is with the
manual by your side.  Follow through the manual's instructions slowly
and carefully, taking all the time you need for an initial
understanding of controls.  Your first pass may leave you saturated (a
full head), but don't let this worry you.  As you work through the
manual again (as needed), you'll gain a greater understanding.  It
especially helps to tune in signals and use the recevier controls on
the signal to see what the effect is.

Wayne was very thorough with this owner's manual, and spent quite a
bit of time to make it easy to read and to reference.  This doesn't
mean that you won't have questions; this forum is a good place to post
any questions you might have.  That's its primary purpose in fact.

Don't worry too much about causing damage to the KX3 by controlling it
from the front panel or transmitting, applying power, etc.  The KX3
protects itself quite capably from mistakes a user might make.  When
it comes to opening the enclosure to put in or charge batteries, take
the care with doing it but overall it's like putting batteries in any
piece of equipment.  It seems to be easiest if the rear part of the
enclosure is level on a table top.

It *is* a beautiful device, isn't it?  That said, it's also meant to
be used.  

73,
matt W6NIA


On Mon, 06 Aug 2012 19:03:46 -0500, you wrote:

Is there a newbie section ? I read the manual and still have difficulty with 
simple operations . ( I just opened the box ) 

I'm still trying to understand how to charge the batteries  ( for instance ) - 
I hate to experiment on such a nice piece of gear - I'd like absolute detail 
on how-to rather than clicking and turning knobs at almost random to do 
simple things . I don't want to hurt the beautiful device .

thanks,

ralph ( xe1hi )



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[Elecraft] Why should you inventory?

[Jason Hissong]

I am well into phase 3 of my K2 build (this is my third time building
one) and this is the phase where you start seeing if you installed a
wrong capacitor somewhere, or you are missing some.  As I was happily
checking off caps as I was installing them, I noticed I am missing a
couple.  Or am I?

Dummy me, I didn't properly do an inventory (which I have done on all
previous kits I have built) so I don't know if I misplaced a part...
am I missing a part from the kit... or did I put a wrong cap
somewhere.  I just assumed all was there.  So I had to take the time
to track down all of the 43 capacitors which is somewhat time
consuming.

After about 15 minutes of searching, and a couple sips of brandy, it
appears that I am missing one (or misplaced it).  Luckily, I have
spares in my junkbox so I just used one of the spares.  This has
happened twice already.

Note to self: do an inventory on your next kit!

73,
Jason N8XE
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Re: [Elecraft] Newbie

[Holger Schurig]

In addition to those advices, you can simply send an e-mail here, e.g.
make the text Can one of you explain a newbie how to charge the
batteries? and make the subject line similar, e.g. [KX3] How to
charge batteries.

I would even send one e-mail per question.


I guess your battery-charging question has already been answered, or?
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[Elecraft] KXPD3 again...

[Pierre]

Hi folks,

 Well, after more than 2 months of operations with the KXPD3 and more than
350 QSOs, I still have trouble with that paddle. It occasionally misses
either a dit or a dah. On these occasions, when I push the paddle, the
contact don't produces anything.

 So far, the fixes that have read:

 - clean the black anodizing around the hole where the head of the thumb
screw sits. I was told that it was done at the factory starting at a S/N
earlier than mine, so I did not tried it. Maybe I should do it.
 - To 'file' the contacts screws.. Done this, but not much change...
 - Changing the spring: I did not do it, and wonder of it could be THE fix..

 It is a bit strange that after all the complaints about the KXPD3, Elecraft
has not fixed that once and for all...?

 About the spring, I would suggest that Elecraft provides us with a set of 3
to 4 new springs of different tensions so that we can test/choose the one
that works best for each user.

 73 de VE2PID KX3 S/N 190



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Re: [Elecraft] email response from Elecraft

[nr4c]

OK, so you have an automated response from some computer that such and 
such email was received.  It still hasn't gotten to the person it needs 
to go to, so maybe if you send your email with a request for a Read 
Receipt, you'd at least know that a PERSON had looked at it, and 
checked the BOX.

I personnaly don't think this is the forum for complaints about the 
company or it's policies.  If you have a problem with customer service, 
orders, or support, you need to email Wayne, Eric or Lisa.  They will 
help you solve your problem.  Sharing their/your dirty laundry with 
current, past and potential customers is not in good taste.  It there 
were a systemic problem with support or service, the company would not 
be doing business this long with the vast array of products available 
that Elecraft offers.

...bilkl  nr4c

On Tue, 7 Aug 2012 07:17:41 -0400, Robert Emory wrote:
 As a suggestion perhaps Elecraft could set up their email server
 to automatically generate a response to every email that it has
 been received (and maybe a thank you) and a reply will be
 forth coming.
 Then the sender would know their email had been received.
 Just a thought,
 Bob (KD1CT)
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[Elecraft] Test, Please ignore

[T Gahagan]

Test
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[Elecraft] test-please ignore

[T Gahagan]

test
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[Elecraft] KX3: Missing instructions for screws?

[Kevin Luxford]

When I finished the build of the KX3, there were a couple of small flat 
head black screws left over.  I found a couple of spots where they 
fitted, but for the life of me I could not find reference to them in the 
assembly instructions.  These screws seem to go on either side of a male 
connector visible in the window of a square cut-out on the top cover. 
Further, I could find no reference to this 4 pin connector.  Has it 
something to do with the yet un-released 2 m option and linear amplifier?

I have gone through both the assembly and operator's manuals at least 
three times, however, this is no guarantee that I have not overlooked 
the explanation I am looking for.

73
Kevin
VK3DAP / ZL2DAP
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 again...

[Donald Butler]

I finally got around to reshaping the cupped ends of the KXPD3 contact
screws as others have suggested, and it seems to have solved all of my
KXPD3 issues.  I can now adjust the paddles very tightly and no longer
have runaway dits or dahs.  I no longer have dropped dits or dahs, and I
don't have the random delayed response problem which I had been
experiencing.

To accomplish the reshaping I disassembled the KXPD3, but left the screw
in each paddle (extended several turns to provide better access, and
secured with the set screw).  That provided a handle and allowed me to
keep it under control while using a fine white stone in my dental drill
to do the shaping (I'm a retired dentist and still have an old belt
driven handpiece on my workbench, but a Dremel mototool or something
similar will work just as well) and I just rounded off the cupped ends.
I didn't have to mess with the spring.  I have taken a few closeup
photos of the final result which I can post, but am not sure if the
reflector will allow jpeg attachments (what say Wayne?)

I also rotated the brass cylinders to move the wear marks (caused by the
sharp cupped screw ends) away from the contact area.

After several ragchew type qsos I'm confident that all of my previous
KXPD3 issues have been solved.

Don, N5LZ KX3 S/N 125 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Pierre
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 7:43 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KXPD3 again...


Hi folks,

 Well, after more than 2 months of operations with the KXPD3 and more
than 350 QSOs, I still have trouble with that paddle. It occasionally
misses either a dit or a dah. On these occasions, when I push the
paddle, the contact don't produces anything.

 So far, the fixes that have read:

 - clean the black anodizing around the hole where the head of the thumb
screw sits. I was told that it was done at the factory starting at a S/N
earlier than mine, so I did not tried it. Maybe I should do it.
 - To 'file' the contacts screws.. Done this, but not much change...
 - Changing the spring: I did not do it, and wonder of it could be THE
fix..

 It is a bit strange that after all the complaints about the KXPD3,
Elecraft has not fixed that once and for all...?

 About the spring, I would suggest that Elecraft provides us with a set
of 3 to 4 new springs of different tensions so that we can test/choose
the one that works best for each user.

 73 de VE2PID KX3 S/N 190



--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KXPD3-again-tp7560531.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] email response from Elecraft

[Sebastian, W4AS]

An automated response to an initial email should be standard practice in 
business.  This lets the sender know they at least have the correct email 
address, and should list the times the business is open, etc.

Not all email applications have the read receipt function. 

I disagree with you.  This should be an avenue for both positive and negative 
comments.  I don't want to read only about the positive, and Elecraft would 
lose out on constructive criticism and ideas to continue to enhance the company.

73 de Sebastian, W4AS



On Aug 7, 2012, at 10:14 AM, nr4c n...@widomaker.com wrote:

 OK, so you have an automated response from some computer that such and 
 such email was received.  It still hasn't gotten to the person it needs 
 to go to, so maybe if you send your email with a request for a Read 
 Receipt, you'd at least know that a PERSON had looked at it, and 
 checked the BOX.
 
 I personnaly don't think this is the forum for complaints about the 
 company or it's policies.  If you have a problem with customer service, 
 orders, or support, you need to email Wayne, Eric or Lisa.  They will 
 help you solve your problem.  Sharing their/your dirty laundry with 
 current, past and potential customers is not in good taste.  It there 
 were a systemic problem with support or service, the company would not 
 be doing business this long with the vast array of products available 
 that Elecraft offers.
 
 ...bilkl  nr4c
 
 On Tue, 7 Aug 2012 07:17:41 -0400, Robert Emory wrote:
 As a suggestion perhaps Elecraft could set up their email server
 to automatically generate a response to every email that it has
 been received (and maybe a thank you) and a reply will be
 forth coming.
 Then the sender would know their email had been received.
 Just a thought,
 Bob (KD1CT)

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Re: [Elecraft] Menu parameters via macro

[Dick Dievendorff]

MP is generally much lower. Try MN115; in the command tester, then MP; in the 
command tester, observe the MPxxx; response, change the menu item with the 
radio, then enter MP; in the command tester, observe the response.   I use this 
technique to correlate MP values with menu parameters. Use the MPxxx; values in 
your setters. MP115; is too high.

Dick, K6KR

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 7, 2012, at 5:18 AM, W4ATK w4...@bellsouth.net wrote:

I have had no success at accessing menu parameters via MNxxx, MPxxx, 
 and/or MQxxx commands.
 
The book sez:  MN acceses menu entries. MP can then be used (in some 
 cases) to read or set the parameter value. Based on this I should be able to 
 do the following:
 
MN115;  (enter the menu)
MP115;  (acquire or set the value)
MN255;  (exit the menu)
 
So far, nothing.
 
JIm, W4ATK
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Missing instructions for screws?

[Kevin Luxford]

Thanks guys for the enlightenment.

I did not buy the paddle as I have BY1, an Accukeyer with a Kiwi 
designed set of paddles, and a number of straight keys (my favourite 
being the German WWII Junker DGBM key).  A poor excuse for not having 
read EVERY word in the manuals including those bits which applied to 
options not purchased.

Another case of, Kevin, RTFM!

Nice to get prompt solutions to problems at 2 am (my time.) Thanks again
Kevin
VK3DAP / ZL2DAP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3- support courtesy

[C L Jonkers]

I've never had a failure of an Elecraft product. On the other hand construction 
questions, parts and software issues have consistently been handled promptly by 
the staff using Email on not so critical problems or by phone on more 
immediate ones. 

They never whined or complained about a mistake of mine taking up their busy 
time. A harried staffer did apologize for misunderstanding an issue once.

Meanwhile, Elecraft radios outperform everything else I've ever had in my 
shack. 
Great products, great service, outstanding personnel. 

73,
Neil  NJ6L  
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[Elecraft] W2 directional coupler N-connector

[pmurie]

I am considering a small EME station on 432 Mhz. I would like to  
measure output power up to 200 watts. It appears that the current  
SO-239 connectors in the directional coupler could easily be changed  
to female N-connectors. Has anyone done that and what has been your  
experience.
Thanks,
73 Paul
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Re: [Elecraft] K3- support courtesy

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Hi Bill,

I apologize for the delay replying to your support email. We've checked 
ALL of our email systems and there is no record of your email. Can you 
tell me which email address you sent your email to? (Feel free to reply 
via direct email to me.) When we have run into complaints like this in 
the past, it frequently turns out the sender had a typo in the email 
address or was sending it to the wrong address.

Madelyn, made...@elecraft.com , coordinates all of our support RSA's so 
she is the best person to contact for a repair's status. She is probably 
the person who interacted with you when you received your RSA.  I see 
Howard replied to your Elecraft list posting from home last night, so 
I'm sure he will work with Madelyn to get you your info today.

Please note that we also had a short outage of email to my 
e...@elecraft.com email address, l...@elecraft.com, sa...@elecraft.com 
and i...@elecraft.com early yesterday morning. Somebody attempted to 
hack our main email server and we spent a good part of the morning 
fighting this off and making sure everyhting was OK.

In general, we strive to reply to emails as quickly as possible, usually 
the same day, but this can also take up to the following day when the 
support load is high and/or the email arrives later in the day. Mondays 
in particular can be extremely busy here as we all deal with the very 
large backlog of order, support and pre-sales question emails from over 
the weekend and the surge in Monday phone calls. It feels like we're 
'off to the races' as soon as we walk in the door :-)

Also, it is -always- OK to call us if you have an urgent question or are 
not sure an email has been received.

As a side note, we occasionally receive emails late Friday or over the 
weekend, and then receive a follow up complaint that same weekend, 
before we come to work Monday, that we have not replied to their 
question. While we can be obsessive about support (some of our support 
engineers have been known to occasionally sneak a look at emails late at 
night and over the weekend - as evidenced by Howard's reply to your list 
posting last night)  we can't require them to do this ;-)

Lastly, should you fail to get a prompt response from us, you may 
-always- email me directly.

73,

Eric
---
www.elecraft.com

On 8/6/2012 6:19 PM, Bill wrote:
 My K3 has been at Elecraft for a week for warranty repairs (out of
 service for three weeks). So, I dropped an email early today asking what
 the status of repairs was. I never got a reply. So, after a few hours I
 sent the email again - after all, emails do sometimes fail to get
 through. Before the close of business, I sent yet another email asking
 the status of repairs on my K3 (time zones were taken into consideration).

 No response from Elecraft at all! In the past I have been pleased with
 support. And, I wouldn't question this oversight - except it amounts to
 three oversights (three separate emails).

 Courtesy is cheap and is what I expect when dealing with a warranty
 repair of an expensive piece of equipment. It only takes a moment to
 make a quick reply - even if only saying, No change or I don't know.

 To ignore my emails either means they are swamped with warranty repairs
 or the really don't care about me - the paying customer.

 Is this just an anomaly or is this the norm I should learn to expect?

 Bill W2BLC

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Re: [Elecraft] W2 directional coupler N-connector

[Ken G Kopp]

Yes Paul, the connectors on the sending units are easily changed.
All mine have been changed using kits from Morse Express that
come with nicely-done interfacing plates to compensate for the
pattern change.  I've also changed the three antenna connectors
on my K3 using these neat little kits.

A caution ... take note of the TRANSMITTER and LOAD labels and
the positioning of the cover.  You have a 50-50 chance of reversing
the labeling if you reverse the cover.  The labeling is on the -cover-
and not the unit itself.

73!

Ken Kopp - K0PP

 On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 4:12 PM,  pmu...@xmission.com wrote:
 I am considering a small EME station on 432 Mhz. I would like to
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Missing instructions for screws?

[Buck - k4ia]

Those holes are for the KXPD3 paddles - you can ignore them.  Elecraft 
always gives you some extra hardware - just in case.

Buck
k4ia

On 8/7/2012 11:36 AM, Kevin Luxford wrote:
 When I finished the build of the KX3, there were a couple of small flat
 head black screws left over.  I found a couple of spots where they
 fitted, but for the life of me I could not find reference to them in the
 assembly instructions.  These screws seem to go on either side of a male
 connector visible in the window of a square cut-out on the top cover.
 Further, I could find no reference to this 4 pin connector.  Has it
 something to do with the yet un-released 2 m option and linear amplifier?

 I have gone through both the assembly and operator's manuals at least
 three times, however, this is no guarantee that I have not overlooked
 the explanation I am looking for.

 73
 Kevin
 VK3DAP / ZL2DAP
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[Elecraft] email response from Elecraft

[Richard Fjeld]

A reflector should also be for constructive suggestions to make things better.
Having had some emails that seemed to have become lost in cyberspace
as I recently had, makes me appreciate Bob's, suggestion.  I don't know what it 
would take to do that, but I think it would removed the doubt factor.  
The response could be simple.  

Reflectors should not only be used by sycophants.

Rich, n0ce


OK, so you have an automated response from some computer that such and 
such email was received.  It still hasn't gotten to the person it needs 
to go to, so maybe if you send your email with a request for a Read 
Receipt, you'd at least know that a PERSON had looked at it, and 
checked the BOX.

I personnaly don't think this is the forum for complaints about the 
company or it's policies.  If you have a problem with customer service, 
orders, or support, you need to email Wayne, Eric or Lisa.  They will 
help you solve your problem.  Sharing their/your dirty laundry with 
current, past and potential customers is not in good taste.  It there 
were a systemic problem with support or service, the company would not 
be doing business this long with the vast array of products available 
that Elecraft offers.

...bilkl  nr4c

On Tue, 7 Aug 2012 07:17:41 -0400, Robert Emory wrote:
 As a suggestion perhaps Elecraft could set up their email server
 to automatically generate a response to every email that it has
 been received (and maybe a thank you) and a reply will be
 forth coming.
 Then the sender would know their email had been received.
 Just a thought,
 Bob (KD1CT)


Richard Fjeld, N0CE


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[Elecraft] WANTED TO BUY P3

[walter renner]

I am looking for a used P3 in good condition. Please reply off list.


Kurt  -  K0ARO
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Re: [Elecraft] W2 directional coupler N-connector

[Robert Friess]

The sensors can be ordered with N connectors from Elecraft.

Bob, N6CM

On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 9:45 AM, Ken G Kopp kengk...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yes Paul, the connectors on the sending units are easily changed.
 All mine have been changed using kits from Morse Express that
 come with nicely-done interfacing plates to compensate for the
 pattern change.  I've also changed the three antenna connectors
 on my K3 using these neat little kits.

 A caution ... take note of the TRANSMITTER and LOAD labels and
 the positioning of the cover.  You have a 50-50 chance of reversing
 the labeling if you reverse the cover.  The labeling is on the -cover-
 and not the unit itself.

 73!

 Ken Kopp - K0PP

  On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 4:12 PM,  pmu...@xmission.com wrote:
  I am considering a small EME station on 432 Mhz. I would like to
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Missing instructions for screws?

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Hi Kevin: 

At the top of page A1 you will find: You may find extra screws, nuts and
other small parts provided in case you lose one. They may be in a separate
bag or mixed in with the others.

Perhaps we should include a specific reference to that mystery connector
and screw holes. Both manuals show the KX3 with the KXPD3 key mounted at
that location which made their use seem rather self-evident for those of us
already familiar with the KX3. 

Thanks for the observation. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Kevin Luxford
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 8:37 AM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3: Missing instructions for screws?

When I finished the build of the KX3, there were a couple of small flat head
black screws left over.  I found a couple of spots where they fitted, but
for the life of me I could not find reference to them in the assembly
instructions.  These screws seem to go on either side of a male connector
visible in the window of a square cut-out on the top cover. 
Further, I could find no reference to this 4 pin connector.  Has it
something to do with the yet un-released 2 m option and linear amplifier?

I have gone through both the assembly and operator's manuals at least three
times, however, this is no guarantee that I have not overlooked the
explanation I am looking for.

73
Kevin
VK3DAP / ZL2DAP
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Re: [Elecraft] W2 directional coupler N-connector

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Please note that changing the connectors from SO-239s to N's will 
uncalibrate the W2's directional coupler as you go higher in frequency - 
especially on 432 MHz, leading to less accurate SWR indications. It may 
also affect wattmeter accuracy.

We included additional compensation components in the coupler design to 
cancel the reluctance of the SO-239s, flattening the coupler's frequency 
response.

73,

Eric
---
www.elecraft.com

On 8/7/2012 9:45 AM, Ken G Kopp wrote:
 Yes Paul, the connectors on the sending units are easily changed.
 All mine have been changed using kits from Morse Express that
 come with nicely-done interfacing plates to compensate for the
 pattern change.  I've also changed the three antenna connectors
 on my K3 using these neat little kits.

 A caution ... take note of the TRANSMITTER and LOAD labels and
 the positioning of the cover.  You have a 50-50 chance of reversing
 the labeling if you reverse the cover.  The labeling is on the -cover-
 and not the unit itself.

 73!

 Ken Kopp - K0PP

   On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 4:12 PM,  pmu...@xmission.com wrote:
 I am considering a small EME station on 432 Mhz. I would like to
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for August 5th 6th, 2012

[kevinr]

Good Morning,
I awoke this morning to the sound of rain falling on my roof. After 
the last few days of sun and heat today is back to fog and cool.  The 
dense fog keeps things very quiet around here except for the dripping 
from the trees.  After the Hillsboro Airshow this weekend the quiet is 
very welcome.  Having a B52 flying over the tips of the trees very near 
the house was something.

Our Sunday nets went well.  Conditions were very good on 20 meters 
if you could dig through the deep fading.  However, I was hearing a 
steady tone after calling CQ.  I gradually worked through the pile but 
some moved to an alternate rig before I got to them.  Others I would 
call only to find dead air again.  Still others would come out of the 
noise, make the exchange, and then fade again.  A few KX3s tried to 
check in only to jump to another rig to make the contact.  It was fun to 
hear so many after the last few week's paucity of contacts.

On to the lists =

   On 14050 kHz at 2200z:
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
K1THP - Dave - CT - K3 - 686
AC5P - Mike - OK - K3 - 2170
K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K3 - 4113
K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398
KN5L - John - TX - K2 - 7212
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139
VE8RT - Ron - NT - K2 - 7176
WA5BDU - Nick - AR - KX3

   On 7045 kHz at 0200z:
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
K0DTJ - Brian - CA - K3 - 4113

I hope next week's conditions are as good as they were this week.  I 
just completed a sked into Alaska which started with fading and weak 
signals but grew much stronger over the course of thirty minutes.  Now 
that the sun is not acting up on a daily basis we can take advantage of 
decent propagation again.  It is fun to hear the new KX3s checking in.  
A few more each week so I know folks are getting them.  Another few 
months and I am sure that assembly line will settle down to steady 
production.  Then maybe Eric can get a day off to relax :)
Stay well,
   Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)

--

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[Elecraft] KAT500 and W2

[KM4VX]

One reason I look forward to seeing the operating manual for the KAT500 is
because I have found the Elecraft W2 an extremely accurate way of fine
tuning my manual antenna tuner, well beyond what the SWR indicator of the K3
may be indicating, when used with the Palstar AT2k. It is easy to fine tune
the K3 when used with the AT2K and have the W2 register just one green
light-perfect SWR. The K3 is of course happy with less than this perfect 
SWR match, but when adjusting the manual tuner while putting out about 10
watts with the K3 one can get a perfect match. I look forward to seeing the
manual for the KAT500 and seeing what is possible in fine tuning the auto
tuner using the manual function of the KAT500. Wiil the KAT500 memory retain
the settings made in the manual adjustment for a given frequency? Is manual
adjustment of the KAT500 possible with simultaneous power output from the
K3? It is not possible to manually adjust the KAT3 in the K3 while applying
power. Looking forward to previewing the KAT500 manual. 73 Ron KM4VX



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT500-and-W2-tp7560548.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] K3 Newbie

[Richard Fjeld]

In Elecraft Digest Vol 100 Iss 15 Message 21,  Matt Maguire mentioned:

Concerning your questions around AGC, Don W3FPR has written an excellent 
article on this topic, and you can find it on his web page:
http://www.w3fpr.com/K3_AGC.htm


If readers have not taken the time to read this pub, I highly recommend doing 
so. You may want to save it in your 'favorites' list for review.


Rich, n0ce


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[Elecraft] KX3- K3-EZ and the KX-3

[Barry LaZar]

I downloaded a copy of K3-EZ and tried it with my KX3. I found that it 
seems to work OK, but I must say that I haven't tried everything yet. 
K3-EZ seems to be a really nice utility to have around.


73,
Barry
K3NDM
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 again...

[Wayne Burdick]

Hi Pierre,

We're testing some different KXPD3 hardware, and will make it  
available free on request once we've ordered sufficient quantities.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

Pierre wrote:

 ...occasionally misses either a dit or a dah



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[Elecraft] problem using CW on K3/0

[Hugh Bradley]

After a lot of twiddling I have managed to get my K3/0 talking to my remote
K3  (using the Remote Rig modules). I have found the system works almost
seamlessly. I am really pleased with it. I brought the K3/O unit on holiday
with me and found I could operate my home station almost as if I were
there.

At the operator / control  end sending CW involves using the Remote Rig
module which has a keyer built in to it with the K3/0. The module has a
small black knob on it which controls the keying speed and has a paddle
input. I have two problems using CW:

1. When sending CW the tone is monitored from the K3 speaker. It is
over-loud and I cannot find a way to reduce its volume. For me it is too
loud to operate. The controls on my K3/0 do not seem to affect it and there
are no controls on the Remote-rig module. . Maybe I am missing something
here and perhaps someone can help.

2. At the back of the Remote-rig / keyer module  is an input for a paddle.
I cannot use a straight key to this input. Is it possible to attach a
straight key to the K3/0?

73 de EI9KF
Hugh
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Re: [Elecraft] problem using CW on K3/0

[Mitch Wolfson DJØQN]

On 07.08.2012 20:54, Hugh Bradley wrote:
 After a lot of twiddling I have managed to get my K3/0 talking to my remote
 K3  (using the Remote Rig modules). I have found the system works almost
 seamlessly. I am really pleased with it. I brought the K3/O unit on holiday
 with me and found I could operate my home station almost as if I were
 there.

 At the operator / control  end sending CW involves using the Remote Rig
 module which has a keyer built in to it with the K3/0. The module has a
 small black knob on it which controls the keying speed and has a paddle
 input. I have two problems using CW:

 1. When sending CW the tone is monitored from the K3 speaker. It is
 over-loud and I cannot find a way to reduce its volume. For me it is too
 loud to operate. The controls on my K3/0 do not seem to affect it and there
 are no controls on the Remote-rig module. . Maybe I am missing something
 here and perhaps someone can help.

 2. At the back of the Remote-rig / keyer module  is an input for a paddle.
 I cannot use a straight key to this input. Is it possible to attach a
 straight key to the K3/0?

 73 de EI9KF
 Hugh
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-- 
Mitch Wolfson
DJØQN / K7DX
Georg-Kerschensteiner-Str. 42, 81829 Muenchen, Germany
Skype: mitchwo - Home:+49 89 32152700 - Mobile:+49 172 8374436
Echolink: 3001 - IRLP: 5378

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Re: [Elecraft] problem using CW on K3/0

[Mitch Wolfson DJØQN]

Hugh,

Here are your answers:

1. Go to the control RRC web page under keyer settings, then change 
Side tone -db to a lower number.

2. Look at the current RemoteRig manual on pages 84-85 where this is 
covered. You can connect a straight key or external keyer to the control 
RRC's I/O socket. A tip: use an old ethernet cable and cut-off one end 
to use.

73,
Mitch DJ0QN


On 07.08.2012 20:54, Hugh Bradley wrote:
 After a lot of twiddling I have managed to get my K3/0 talking to my remote
 K3  (using the Remote Rig modules). I have found the system works almost
 seamlessly. I am really pleased with it. I brought the K3/O unit on holiday
 with me and found I could operate my home station almost as if I were
 there.

 At the operator / control  end sending CW involves using the Remote Rig
 module which has a keyer built in to it with the K3/0. The module has a
 small black knob on it which controls the keying speed and has a paddle
 input. I have two problems using CW:

 1. When sending CW the tone is monitored from the K3 speaker. It is
 over-loud and I cannot find a way to reduce its volume. For me it is too
 loud to operate. The controls on my K3/0 do not seem to affect it and there
 are no controls on the Remote-rig module. . Maybe I am missing something
 here and perhaps someone can help.

 2. At the back of the Remote-rig / keyer module  is an input for a paddle.
 I cannot use a straight key to this input. Is it possible to attach a
 straight key to the K3/0?

 73 de EI9KF
 Hugh
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-- 
Mitch Wolfson
DJØQN / K7DX
Georg-Kerschensteiner-Str. 42, 81829 Muenchen, Germany
Skype: mitchwo - Home:+49 89 32152700 - Mobile:+49 172 8374436
Echolink: 3001 - IRLP: 5378

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[Elecraft] W2: About my W2 Wattmeter Posting

[Ken G Kopp]

About my posting related to changing the SO-239's on W2
sensors .

As has already been pointed out ... changing the connectors
may interfere with design parameters of the metering circuit.
I was aware of that possibility, and -did- make before and after
measurements.  I saw no discernible change -my- setup.

I -have- changed the SO-239's to BNC's on my two W2's, as
well as the three on my K3..  It didn't enter my mind that mine
are -HF- sensors, and may be different than the VHF versions.

Paul, the photo I sent you was of an -HF- sensor.

I apologize for the confusion.

73!

Ken - K0PP

I apologise for my
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Re: [Elecraft] email response from Elecraft

[David Gilbert]

If this isn't the proper forum for open discussion on the pros and cons 
of Elecraft products and service, what is?   eHam.net??? Just because 
one recent post was petulant doesn't mean that negative issues should be 
buried under the misguided guise of good taste. I've bought several 
Elecraft products and I've been more than happy with each one of them, 
but the day that this reflector turns into nothing but a bunch of glad 
handing endorsements is the day I go elsewhere.

Besides, if you think staying in business with a broad product base is a 
guarantee of good customer service you've lived a pretty sheltered 
existence.

Dave  AB7E


On 8/7/2012 7:14 AM, nr4c wrote:
 I personnaly don't think this is the forum for complaints about the
 company or it's policies.  If you have a problem with customer service,
 orders, or support, you need to email Wayne, Eric or Lisa.  They will
 help you solve your problem.  Sharing their/your dirty laundry with
 current, past and potential customers is not in good taste.  It there
 were a systemic problem with support or service, the company would not
 be doing business this long with the vast array of products available
 that Elecraft offers.

 ...bilkl  nr4c

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Re: [Elecraft] W2 directional coupler N-connector

[riese-k3djc]

not sure why you would change UHFs are good at 432,just need 
taping,, but then I tape type Ns too,,use good quality Amphenol UHF
connectors
I used them on a stacked set of K2RIW at 432 and after 15 year of service
looked as good as when I put then up

Bob K3DJC
On Tue, 07 Aug 2012 10:12:47 -0600 pmu...@xmission.com writes:
 I am considering a small EME station on 432 Mhz. I would like to  
 measure output power up to 200 watts. It appears that the current  
 SO-239 connectors in the directional coupler could easily be changed 
  
 to female N-connectors. Has anyone done that and what has been your  
 
 experience.
 Thanks,
 73 Paul
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Re: [Elecraft] problem using CW on K3/0

[Brandon Hansen [KG6YPI]]

Hello Hugh,

  Mitch provided excellent answers to your questions. Also note, 
it is recommended to turn the MON (Monitor) on the remote K3 all the way 
down (0, off) in CW mode and to use the side tone monitor built into the 
Control RemoteRig unit. This will prevent several issues when sending CW 
using the RemoteRig devices.

As mentioned in previous response from Mitch, you will need to make a 
custom cable to connect your straight key to the Control RemoteRig's IO 
port located on the back side and set your IO Settings for straight key 
support.

If you need any further help or have any other questions, you may 
contact K3-Remote support by emailing k3supp...@elecraft.com

-- 
73,
Brandon Hansen, KG6YPI
831-763-4211 (x168)
K3-Remote Support
Elecraft



On 8/7/2012 12:31 PM, Mitch Wolfson DJØQN wrote:
 Hugh,

 Here are your answers:

 1. Go to the control RRC web page under keyer settings, then change
 Side tone -db to a lower number.

 2. Look at the current RemoteRig manual on pages 84-85 where this is
 covered. You can connect a straight key or external keyer to the control
 RRC's I/O socket. A tip: use an old ethernet cable and cut-off one end
 to use.

 73,
 Mitch DJ0QN


 On 07.08.2012 20:54, Hugh Bradley wrote:
 After a lot of twiddling I have managed to get my K3/0 talking to my remote
 K3  (using the Remote Rig modules). I have found the system works almost
 seamlessly. I am really pleased with it. I brought the K3/O unit on holiday
 with me and found I could operate my home station almost as if I were
 there.

 At the operator / control  end sending CW involves using the Remote Rig
 module which has a keyer built in to it with the K3/0. The module has a
 small black knob on it which controls the keying speed and has a paddle
 input. I have two problems using CW:

 1. When sending CW the tone is monitored from the K3 speaker. It is
 over-loud and I cannot find a way to reduce its volume. For me it is too
 loud to operate. The controls on my K3/0 do not seem to affect it and there
 are no controls on the Remote-rig module. . Maybe I am missing something
 here and perhaps someone can help.

 2. At the back of the Remote-rig / keyer module  is an input for a paddle.
 I cannot use a straight key to this input. Is it possible to attach a
 straight key to the K3/0?

 73 de EI9KF
 Hugh
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[Elecraft] Can I split or share my ACC port?

[Hugh Bradley]

I spend a lot of my time connecting and disconnecting accessories from the
back of my K3 and I find this tedious.

In my shack I have a, Expert 1K linear amp and a Microkeyer II which both
like to use the ACC Port on the K3 I use a Remote-rig unit to control the
K3 when I am away and this too needs the ACC.

Instead of connecting one of these items at a time, is it OK to use a VGA
cable splitter and have both or three connected simultaneously?
Is this port a strictly one-at-a-time guy?

In addition to the issue with the ACC port, the accessories above (+ add to
this a Signalink USB) I find that I am regularly having to change the plugs
into  my:   Line-in , line-out, Paddle, Key, PTT and Speakers sockets and
RS232 port.

Which of these 'ports' can be shared or split and which will will only
safely take one I/O?

I am tempted to build an external 'Patch Box' to give me handier and easier
access to the K3 back-panel .

Has anyone built one of these or is it even necessary if the ports can be
split and permanently shared?

I believe that Y cables are available for the RS232 on the K3.
Into how many RS232's can these be split?
 2...34?
I have an Expert-1K, a CAT, and a Steppir controller and a Remote-rig - all
of which would like a place on the nipple!

Thanks  and GB

73  de  EI9KF
Hugh
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Re: [Elecraft] Can I split or share my ACC port?

[Mitch Wolfson DJØQN]

Hugh,

If you are not using the RemoteRig's COM1 port to control another 
device, you can route CAT over that port to sync devices such as the SPE 
Expert (which I do).

Just change the radio RRC to mode-6. Then connect a serial cable between 
(for example) the SPE's CAT input port (one of the DB25's) and COM1 of 
the RRC. Note that the pinout of COM1 is different than COM2 (mirrored).

In some cases, using a Y-cable as you said allows you to sync as well, 
but no guarantee.

If you are not yet using CAT on the control RRC, just use the same trick 
with mode-6 on that RRC to be able to control the K3 that way. You can 
then use LP-Bridge or similar to sync with other devices on the control PC.

73,
Mitch DJ0QN

On 07.08.2012 22:43, Hugh Bradley wrote:
 I spend a lot of my time connecting and disconnecting accessories from the
 back of my K3 and I find this tedious.

 In my shack I have a, Expert 1K linear amp and a Microkeyer II which both
 like to use the ACC Port on the K3 I use a Remote-rig unit to control the
 K3 when I am away and this too needs the ACC.

 Instead of connecting one of these items at a time, is it OK to use a VGA
 cable splitter and have both or three connected simultaneously?
 Is this port a strictly one-at-a-time guy?

 In addition to the issue with the ACC port, the accessories above (+ add to
 this a Signalink USB) I find that I am regularly having to change the plugs
 into  my:   Line-in , line-out, Paddle, Key, PTT and Speakers sockets and
 RS232 port.

 Which of these 'ports' can be shared or split and which will will only
 safely take one I/O?

 I am tempted to build an external 'Patch Box' to give me handier and easier
 access to the K3 back-panel .

 Has anyone built one of these or is it even necessary if the ports can be
 split and permanently shared?

 I believe that Y cables are available for the RS232 on the K3.
 Into how many RS232's can these be split?
   2...34?
 I have an Expert-1K, a CAT, and a Steppir controller and a Remote-rig - all
 of which would like a place on the nipple!

 Thanks  and GB

 73  de  EI9KF
 Hugh
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-- 
Mitch Wolfson
DJØQN / K7DX
Georg-Kerschensteiner-Str. 42, 81829 Muenchen, Germany
Skype: mitchwo - Home:+49 89 32152700 - Mobile:+49 172 8374436
Echolink: 3001 - IRLP: 5378

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Re: [Elecraft] Can I split or share my ACC port?

[Matthew Zilmer]

RS232 is an end-to-end interface, not a multipdrop.  That's just the Physical 
Layer, but more than one device driving will cause contention.

Matt Zilmer
Consultant - Product Management Dept.
Magellan Navigation / MiTAC Digital Corp.
Tel: (909) 394-6052
Cell: (909) 730-6552
Si fractum non sit, noli id reficere


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Hugh Bradley
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 1:43 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Can I split or share my ACC port?

I spend a lot of my time connecting and disconnecting accessories from the back 
of my K3 and I find this tedious.

In my shack I have a, Expert 1K linear amp and a Microkeyer II which both like 
to use the ACC Port on the K3 I use a Remote-rig unit to control the
K3 when I am away and this too needs the ACC.

Instead of connecting one of these items at a time, is it OK to use a VGA cable 
splitter and have both or three connected simultaneously?
Is this port a strictly one-at-a-time guy?

In addition to the issue with the ACC port, the accessories above (+ add to 
this a Signalink USB) I find that I am regularly having to change the plugs
into  my:   Line-in , line-out, Paddle, Key, PTT and Speakers sockets and
RS232 port.

Which of these 'ports' can be shared or split and which will will only safely 
take one I/O?

I am tempted to build an external 'Patch Box' to give me handier and easier 
access to the K3 back-panel .

Has anyone built one of these or is it even necessary if the ports can be split 
and permanently shared?

I believe that Y cables are available for the RS232 on the K3.
Into how many RS232's can these be split?
 2...34?
I have an Expert-1K, a CAT, and a Steppir controller and a Remote-rig - all of 
which would like a place on the nipple!

Thanks  and GB

73  de  EI9KF
Hugh
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[Elecraft] RS232 A/B box

[Art Nienhouse]

One solution might be a RS232 A/B if you need the K3 utility switch it 
to A when you want the NaP3 or what ever else switch it to B.
http://www.amazon.com/DB9-Female-Way-Switch-Box/dp/B002J0OTTC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8qid=1344373302sr=8-2keywords=serial+switch+box

Regards
Art
ka9zap
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Re: [Elecraft] Can I split or share my ACC port?

[iain macdonnell - N6ML]

On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 1:43 PM, Hugh Bradley hughbrad...@gmail.com wrote:
 I spend a lot of my time connecting and disconnecting accessories from the
 back of my K3 and I find this tedious.

 In my shack I have a, Expert 1K linear amp and a Microkeyer II which both
 like to use the ACC Port on the K3 I use a Remote-rig unit to control the
 K3 when I am away and this too needs the ACC.

 Instead of connecting one of these items at a time, is it OK to use a VGA
 cable splitter and have both or three connected simultaneously?
 Is this port a strictly one-at-a-time guy?

It depends which pins each device needs to use. You can certainly use
a HD15 Y on the ACC port if each device is using different pins
(e.g. band-decoder using AUXBUS, amp using band-data, FSK interface,
etc)... but you can get in trouble, for example, if multiple devices
try to use the band data pins.

Beware of cables splitters designed for VGA, though - since VGA
doesn't use all 15 pins, often the unused pins are not connected, or,
worse, shorted to ground!


 In addition to the issue with the ACC port, the accessories above (+ add to
 this a Signalink USB) I find that I am regularly having to change the plugs
 into  my:   Line-in , line-out, Paddle, Key, PTT and Speakers sockets and
 RS232 port.

 Which of these 'ports' can be shared or split and which will will only
 safely take one I/O?

You can probably get away with some splitting of audio lines, and the
keying inputs are just switches, so you can probably get away it there
too. Trying to use KEY OUT with splitter could produce unexpected
results, though.


 I am tempted to build an external 'Patch Box' to give me handier and easier
 access to the K3 back-panel .

 Has anyone built one of these or is it even necessary if the ports can be
 split and permanently shared?

 I believe that Y cables are available for the RS232 on the K3.
 Into how many RS232's can these be split?
  2...34?
 I have an Expert-1K, a CAT, and a Steppir controller and a Remote-rig - all
 of which would like a place on the nipple!

You generally cannot split a serial port with a 'Y. Only one device
should be transmitting on a serial line. One exception is the SteppIR,
which can be configured to receive only on the serial line from the
K3, so it can track your K3's frequency. There's a design for a
splitter cable on the SteppIR website (or there was, when I last
looked).

73,

~iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] email response from Elecraft

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Gentlemen - This -is- the proper forum for pro/con on our products, 
support etc. Its one of the primary ways we learn about issues and then 
can quickly react to them. We want to hear it all.

That said, its also incumbent on everyone not to overly prolong threads 
with arguments back and forth. Its not necessary to win an argument on 
the reflector. If you feel the urge to prolong a difference of opinion 
past a couple of postings, please take it off list. .

Its also outside of the list guidelines to complain about a posting or 
criticize a posting as inappropriate. Let's the list moderator handle 
that role. (Feel free to send me complaints about postings etc.)

Let's close this thread at this time, as I think we've covered it pretty 
thoroughly.

73,

Eric
Elecraft Lost Moderator, List Modulator and sometimes List Moderator..
---
www.elecraft.com

On 8/7/2012 1:03 PM, David Gilbert wrote:
 If this isn't the proper forum for open discussion on the pros and cons
 of Elecraft products and service, what is?

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[Elecraft] TX power drifts upwards.

[reliant325]

I recently acquired a K3 which I decided to try on WSPR.
I have been active on WSPR for many months now. I setup the K3 with the same 
interface and PC as I use with my IC7700.
The setup with the K3 was straightforward and worked well.however.

I set my TX power to 1 watt and during the TX cycle the power slowly creeps up 
to about 2 watts.
When the next TX cycle comes around, its back to 1 watt and then creeps upward 
again.
Anyone else experienced this?

Roger G0IUW
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[Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[John Shadle]

Hi all,
I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
COM port on my desktop computer.

I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency,
mode, etc. information and for rig control (e.g., click on a spot and
then the radio changes frequency/mode). Unfortunately, the program I
use (AC Log by N3FJP) does not allow you to choose the same COM port
for both rig control and CW keying.

My question is whether or not I could use a splitter of some type (at
the K3) to go to 2 separate ports (e.g., COM 1 and COM 2), then use
COM 1 for rig control and COM 2 for keying. Has anyone else done this?
Is this acceptable practice?

Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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Re: [Elecraft] Can I split or share my ACC port?

[Mike K2MK]

Hi Hugh,

15 pin Y cable. Fully shielded, all pins wired end to end:
http://www.winfordeng.com/products/cdy15hd.php

15 pin cables. Fully shielded, all pins wired:
http://www.winfordeng.com/products/ext15hd.php

15 pin breakout board:
http://www.winfordeng.com/products/cat_brk.php

73,
Mike K2MK



Hugh Bradley wrote
 
 I spend a lot of my time connecting and disconnecting accessories from the
 back of my K3 and I find this tedious.
 
 In my shack I have a, Expert 1K linear amp and a Microkeyer II which both
 like to use the ACC Port on the K3 I use a Remote-rig unit to control the
 K3 when I am away and this too needs the ACC.
 
 Instead of connecting one of these items at a time, is it OK to use a VGA
 cable splitter and have both or three connected simultaneously?
 Is this port a strictly one-at-a-time guy?
 
 In addition to the issue with the ACC port, the accessories above (+ add
 to
 this a Signalink USB) I find that I am regularly having to change the
 plugs
 into  my:   Line-in , line-out, Paddle, Key, PTT and Speakers sockets and
 RS232 port.
 
 Which of these 'ports' can be shared or split and which will will only
 safely take one I/O?
 
 I am tempted to build an external 'Patch Box' to give me handier and
 easier
 access to the K3 back-panel .
 
 Has anyone built one of these or is it even necessary if the ports can be
 split and permanently shared?
 
 I believe that Y cables are available for the RS232 on the K3.
 Into how many RS232's can these be split?
  2...34?
 I have an Expert-1K, a CAT, and a Steppir controller and a Remote-rig -
 all
 of which would like a place on the nipple!
 
 Thanks  and GB
 
 73  de  EI9KF
 Hugh
 




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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Can-I-split-or-share-my-ACC-port-tp7560560p7560566.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 TX power drifts upwards.

[Mike K2MK]

Hi Roger,

You should probably redo the TX Gain calibration from the K3 Utility. If the
problem remains only on one or two bands you may want to manually fiddle
with the setting per the notes at the top of page 62 of the manual. If the
problem remains on all bands there is probably some other cause.

73,
Mike K2MK



reliant325 wrote
 
 I recently acquired a K3 which I decided to try on WSPR.
 I have been active on WSPR for many months now. I setup the K3 with the
 same interface and PC as I use with my IC7700.
 The setup with the K3 was straightforward and worked well.however.
 
 I set my TX power to 1 watt and during the TX cycle the power slowly
 creeps up to about 2 watts.
 When the next TX cycle comes around, its back to 1 watt and then creeps
 upward again.
 Anyone else experienced this?
 
 Roger G0IUW
 




--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/TX-power-drifts-upwards-tp7560567p7560569.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[iain macdonnell - N6ML]

On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 2:38 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 Hi all,
 I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
 COM port on my desktop computer.

 I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency,
 mode, etc. information and for rig control (e.g., click on a spot and
 then the radio changes frequency/mode). Unfortunately, the program I
 use (AC Log by N3FJP) does not allow you to choose the same COM port
 for both rig control and CW keying.

 My question is whether or not I could use a splitter of some type (at
 the K3) to go to 2 separate ports (e.g., COM 1 and COM 2), then use
 COM 1 for rig control and COM 2 for keying. Has anyone else done this?
 Is this acceptable practice?

Sure! It'd probably be safest to make the splitter yourself - the
rig-control side needs TXD, RXD and ground, and the keying side
needs RTS, DTR and ground.

73,

~iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 TX power drifts upwards.

[Lyle Johnson]

Roger,

Be sure the MIC or LINE IN gain is set to give 4 flickering to 5 bars of 
ALC with your WSPR (or other DATA A mode) Tx audio applied.  The most 
common problem in running digital modes with the K3 is setting MIC/LINE 
IN gain too low.  This results in exactly the sort of power creep you 
desribe.

73,

Lyle KK7P

 ...I set my TX power to 1 watt and during the TX cycle the power slowly
 creeps up to about 2 watts.
 When the next TX cycle comes around, its back to 1 watt and then creeps
 upward again.
 Anyone else experienced this?

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[John Shadle]

Do you think there would be a problem in letting both signals pass
through to both COM ports? Wouldn't COM 1 only look for the
appropriate rig control signals and COM 2 only look for the
appropriate CW keying signals? Or not...?

Thanks, Iain!
-john W4PAH

On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 5:51 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML a...@dseven.org wrote:
 On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 2:38 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 Hi all,
 I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
 COM port on my desktop computer.

 I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency,
 mode, etc. information and for rig control (e.g., click on a spot and
 then the radio changes frequency/mode). Unfortunately, the program I
 use (AC Log by N3FJP) does not allow you to choose the same COM port
 for both rig control and CW keying.

 My question is whether or not I could use a splitter of some type (at
 the K3) to go to 2 separate ports (e.g., COM 1 and COM 2), then use
 COM 1 for rig control and COM 2 for keying. Has anyone else done this?
 Is this acceptable practice?

 Sure! It'd probably be safest to make the splitter yourself - the
 rig-control side needs TXD, RXD and ground, and the keying side
 needs RTS, DTR and ground.

 73,

 ~iain / N6ML
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[Elecraft] A Serious Request from Your Moderator

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Folks,

This is a very serious email.

It has come to my attention that several of you have recently (today) 
berated other posters for their complaints or other list postings in 
direct emails (and in some cases phone calls) to them off-list. While 
this represents the actions of a extremely small minority of list 
members, it does a huge amount of irreparable damage.

This is inappropriate, rude, and violates the list guidelines.  It also 
is in direct opposition to our open philosophy here.

As members of this email list and owners of our products, you are all 
Elecraft ambassadors. By insulting, berating or sending other 
snide/harsh messages by direct email to other posters criticizing the 
appropriateness of their postings to the list, you directly harm our 
reputation. This is serious.  Scaring away other customers through rude 
emails only serves to harm us as a company, and to be honest, makes you 
look bad too.  Do you really want to see that happen?

All complaints are also welcome here.  It is not necessary for you to 
defend our reputation or honor. We want to hear about problems as 
quickly as possible. All questions are welcome here, regardless of how 
basic they may be. (We all were newer / non-technical hams once..)  Both 
direct email to us and list forums like this one serve as excellent 
channels of communications back and forth between us.

Lastly, please treat -all- discussions started here as if you would face 
to face in a polite setting, say when you are having dinner with 
acquaintances you do not want to offend. (This includes off-list 
followup communications.) If you have the urge to send something tart, 
offending or personally critical, please wait over night and then delete 
it in the morning when you are more clear headed. Even if you see an 
inappropriate posting by another, do not jump in and criticize it. If 
you truly feel it is inappropriate, please email me directly.

Let's not start a thread on this posting. I'd like it to stand as stated 
above.

-- 
Eric
Elecraft List Moderator
---
www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[iain macdonnell - N6ML]

Hi John,

I didn't want to suggest that without having tried it (and it may vary
between COM port implementations). I'm thinking that there may be some
interaction between the two COM ports if they're electrically
connected together - e.g. if you tell the rig-control port to set RTS
and DTR to always low, that might pull down the voltage generated by
the keying port, and cause it to not work you could try it, I
suppose

73,

~iain / N6ML


On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 2:54 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 Do you think there would be a problem in letting both signals pass
 through to both COM ports? Wouldn't COM 1 only look for the
 appropriate rig control signals and COM 2 only look for the
 appropriate CW keying signals? Or not...?

 Thanks, Iain!
 -john W4PAH

 On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 5:51 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML a...@dseven.org 
 wrote:
 On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 2:38 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 Hi all,
 I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
 COM port on my desktop computer.

 I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency,
 mode, etc. information and for rig control (e.g., click on a spot and
 then the radio changes frequency/mode). Unfortunately, the program I
 use (AC Log by N3FJP) does not allow you to choose the same COM port
 for both rig control and CW keying.

 My question is whether or not I could use a splitter of some type (at
 the K3) to go to 2 separate ports (e.g., COM 1 and COM 2), then use
 COM 1 for rig control and COM 2 for keying. Has anyone else done this?
 Is this acceptable practice?

 Sure! It'd probably be safest to make the splitter yourself - the
 rig-control side needs TXD, RXD and ground, and the keying side
 needs RTS, DTR and ground.

 73,

 ~iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[John Shadle]

Good point, Iain.

The only problem is that I'd like to get the project done quickly, and
I'm not sure Radio Shack sells these DB9 shells any longer. Off to
Digikey/Mouser I go...

73
-john W4PAH

On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 5:58 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML a...@dseven.org wrote:
 Hi John,

 I didn't want to suggest that without having tried it (and it may vary
 between COM port implementations). I'm thinking that there may be some
 interaction between the two COM ports if they're electrically
 connected together - e.g. if you tell the rig-control port to set RTS
 and DTR to always low, that might pull down the voltage generated by
 the keying port, and cause it to not work you could try it, I
 suppose

 73,

 ~iain / N6ML


 On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 2:54 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 Do you think there would be a problem in letting both signals pass
 through to both COM ports? Wouldn't COM 1 only look for the
 appropriate rig control signals and COM 2 only look for the
 appropriate CW keying signals? Or not...?

 Thanks, Iain!
 -john W4PAH

 On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 5:51 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML a...@dseven.org 
 wrote:
 On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 2:38 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 Hi all,
 I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
 COM port on my desktop computer.

 I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency,
 mode, etc. information and for rig control (e.g., click on a spot and
 then the radio changes frequency/mode). Unfortunately, the program I
 use (AC Log by N3FJP) does not allow you to choose the same COM port
 for both rig control and CW keying.

 My question is whether or not I could use a splitter of some type (at
 the K3) to go to 2 separate ports (e.g., COM 1 and COM 2), then use
 COM 1 for rig control and COM 2 for keying. Has anyone else done this?
 Is this acceptable practice?

 Sure! It'd probably be safest to make the splitter yourself - the
 rig-control side needs TXD, RXD and ground, and the keying side
 needs RTS, DTR and ground.

 73,

 ~iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[John Shadle]

Ah forget it. I needed to use the right search term...

http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=kw=d-suborigkw=d-subsr=1

Maybe creating my own cable is the way to go after all.

-john

On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 6:03 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 Good point, Iain.

 The only problem is that I'd like to get the project done quickly, and
 I'm not sure Radio Shack sells these DB9 shells any longer. Off to
 Digikey/Mouser I go...

 73
 -john W4PAH
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Re: [Elecraft] Can I split or share my ACC port?

[Don Wilhelm]

Hugh,

Certainly the ACC port can be split out to multiple destinations. But be 
careful if any one signal line is driving (or receiving) multiple 
boxes.  The original K3 design used open drain drivers on the signal 
lines so that the pullup resistors could be located in the most remote 
box while any other boxes on that same line would not have a pullup 
resistor.

(soapbox on)
But then many hams did not know what pullup resistors were, nor how to 
use open drain output drivers - and most other ham gear did not have 
provisions for adding pullup resistors at the end of the signal line - 
as a result the pullup resistors were moved into the K3 by 
modifications.  One of the complications that created was in the KPA500 
design where the KPA500 had to provide protection diodes on the band 
data lines because some band decoders put higher voltages on those lines 
- the K3 can handle that, but the KPA500 input circuits could not.
(soapbox off)

So, yes, you can split out the ACC connector to multiple places. Only 
one caution - if a single signal goes to multiple places, look at the 
situation carefully.  In general, there should be only one driver on any 
one signal line.  Multiple receivers are usually OK, but multiple 
drivers are a recipe for trouble.
Do NOT use a VGA splitter - find a splitter that implements all 15 
pins.  Many VGA splitters connect several lines to a common pin or pins. 
An alternative is to split out the 15 pin connector to individual signal 
connection points (a fan-out box).


The RS-232 connection is different - that is a point to point signalling 
standard.  It can not be used with multiple drivers. Yes, there is a Y 
cable that can be used with the SteppIR controller, but that is because 
SteppIR put in a special mode where it only listens on the RS-232 
traffic, it does not transmit - therefore in that mode, the SteppIR end 
disconnects any RS-232 drivers.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/7/2012 4:43 PM, Hugh Bradley wrote:
 I spend a lot of my time connecting and disconnecting accessories from the
 back of my K3 and I find this tedious.

 In my shack I have a, Expert 1K linear amp and a Microkeyer II which both
 like to use the ACC Port on the K3 I use a Remote-rig unit to control the
 K3 when I am away and this too needs the ACC.

 Instead of connecting one of these items at a time, is it OK to use a VGA
 cable splitter and have both or three connected simultaneously?


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Re: [Elecraft] email response from Elecraft

[Joel Hallas]

I think Sebastian may be on to something here!

Elecraft is growing -- great news in many ways. OTOH, a widely distributed
virtual company can't help but have communication issues. I think an
automated response, which can seem unfriendly in many cases, can be used to
advantage. It could say, for example:

Your e-mail has been received by Elecraft Customer Service and we pride
ourselves on great customer service. If you are inquiring about a product
returned for service, and you didn't include your RMA number and amateur
callsign in your e-mail request, it may take a while to route you message to
the appropriate service group. If that's the case, please just copy your
sent message and resend it with the RMA number and callsign in the Subject
line. We will then be able to serve you even better 

That will help those customers who don't watch the e-mail list!

BTW, I've always received very prompt response to my e-mail -- but when
Elecraft gets to be the size of GM (perhaps not great example G) we will
no longer be able to expect Wayne and Eric to get involved in every service
question!

Regards, Joel Hallas, W1ZR
Westport, CT

***
An automated response to an initial email should be standard practice in
business.  This lets the sender know they at least have the correct email
address, and should list the times the business is open, etc.

...

73 de Sebastian, W4AS


***

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[Elecraft] KX3 at Sturgis Motorcycle Rally Special Event Station N0W

[Tim Tucker]

All,

Special event station N0W, sponsored by the Worldwidedx.com Amateur Radio
Club / W9WDX is being activated at the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally using an
Elecraft KX3.  If you need South Dakota or Meade County or Grid Square
DN84HJ, this is your chance if conditions are right.  Operating dates and
times will be posted here:  Sturgis Operating
Time/Mode/Frequency.http://www.worldwidedx.com/worldwidedx-com-amateur-radio-club/142608-sturgis-operating-time-mode-frequency.html

For a quick video of what will be used for the special event station, check
out this video on youtube:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1nZ1ws-mbA

Have fun!

Tim
---
Owner, worldwidedx.com
AE6LX, Amateur Radio
NNN0ITA, Navy MARS
NNN0GAF FOUR, Southern CA Director Assistant for Training, Navy MARS
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

I would suggest that you use the one transistor keying circuit (Google 
and you will find many sources) for the keying and PTT. Connect the 
output of the one transistor keyer to the K3 rear panel keying input and 
PTT input.

You will still have the problem that the computer will activate those 
signals when the computer boots, so boot the computer and than turn on 
the K3 - or take other common sense precautions like switching the K3 to 
a dummy load during computer boot times.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/7/2012 5:38 PM, John Shadle wrote:
 Hi all,
 I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
 COM port on my desktop computer.

 I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency,
 mode, etc. information and for rig control (e.g., click on a spot and
 then the radio changes frequency/mode). Unfortunately, the program I
 use (AC Log by N3FJP) does not allow you to choose the same COM port
 for both rig control and CW keying.

 My question is whether or not I could use a splitter of some type (at
 the K3) to go to 2 separate ports (e.g., COM 1 and COM 2), then use
 COM 1 for rig control and COM 2 for keying. Has anyone else done this?
 Is this acceptable practice?

 Thanks!
 -john W4PAH
 Madison, WI
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

If you're going to use two ports on the computer anyway, why not
simply build the usual resistor/NPN transistor driver into the
DB9 shell (or CW plug) and connect CW to the key in jack on the
K3?

That keeps the cables separate and avoids the need for a custom
cable for computer control.


73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 8/7/2012 5:38 PM, John Shadle wrote:
 Hi all,
 I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
 COM port on my desktop computer.

 I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency,
 mode, etc. information and for rig control (e.g., click on a spot and
 then the radio changes frequency/mode). Unfortunately, the program I
 use (AC Log by N3FJP) does not allow you to choose the same COM port
 for both rig control and CW keying.

 My question is whether or not I could use a splitter of some type (at
 the K3) to go to 2 separate ports (e.g., COM 1 and COM 2), then use
 COM 1 for rig control and COM 2 for keying. Has anyone else done this?
 Is this acceptable practice?

 Thanks!
 -john W4PAH
 Madison, WI
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[John Shadle]

Thanks, Don. Are you talking about the PTT IN and KEY OUT RCA jacks?

I Googled one transistor keying circuit and it came back with some
amplifier keying circuits. Is that what I should be looking for, or
something else? I'm sure the answer is obvious, but I'm just having a
hard time seeing it. ;-)

Take care.
-john W4PAH

On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 6:20 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 John,

 I would suggest that you use the one transistor keying circuit (Google and
 you will find many sources) for the keying and PTT. Connect the output of
 the one transistor keyer to the K3 rear panel keying input and PTT input.

 You will still have the problem that the computer will activate those
 signals when the computer boots, so boot the computer and than turn on the
 K3 - or take other common sense precautions like switching the K3 to a dummy
 load during computer boot times.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 8/7/2012 5:38 PM, John Shadle wrote:

 Hi all,
 I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
 COM port on my desktop computer.

 I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency,
 mode, etc. information and for rig control (e.g., click on a spot and
 then the radio changes frequency/mode). Unfortunately, the program I
 use (AC Log by N3FJP) does not allow you to choose the same COM port
 for both rig control and CW keying.

 My question is whether or not I could use a splitter of some type (at
 the K3) to go to 2 separate ports (e.g., COM 1 and COM 2), then use
 COM 1 for rig control and COM 2 for keying. Has anyone else done this?
 Is this acceptable practice?

 Thanks!
 -john W4PAH
 Madison, WI
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[Elecraft] Fwd: [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[iain macdonnell - N6ML]

-- Forwarded message --
From: iain macdonnell - N6ML a...@dseven.org
Date: Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports
To: John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com


On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 3:27 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 Thanks, Don. Are you talking about the PTT IN and KEY OUT RCA jacks?

PTT and KEY (not KEY OUT - that's for your amplifier),


 I Googled one transistor keying circuit and it came back with some
 amplifier keying circuits. Is that what I should be looking for, or
 something else? I'm sure the answer is obvious, but I'm just having a
 hard time seeing it. ;-)

Example circuits at http://www.dxlabsuite.com/dxlabwiki/CWConnection

If you want to use PTT (instead of VOX/QSK), you'll need two of those circuits.

73,

~iain / N6ML



 On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 6:20 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 John,

 I would suggest that you use the one transistor keying circuit (Google and
 you will find many sources) for the keying and PTT. Connect the output of
 the one transistor keyer to the K3 rear panel keying input and PTT input.

 You will still have the problem that the computer will activate those
 signals when the computer boots, so boot the computer and than turn on the
 K3 - or take other common sense precautions like switching the K3 to a dummy
 load during computer boot times.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 8/7/2012 5:38 PM, John Shadle wrote:

 Hi all,
 I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
 COM port on my desktop computer.

 I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency,
 mode, etc. information and for rig control (e.g., click on a spot and
 then the radio changes frequency/mode). Unfortunately, the program I
 use (AC Log by N3FJP) does not allow you to choose the same COM port
 for both rig control and CW keying.

 My question is whether or not I could use a splitter of some type (at
 the K3) to go to 2 separate ports (e.g., COM 1 and COM 2), then use
 COM 1 for rig control and COM 2 for keying. Has anyone else done this?
 Is this acceptable practice?

 Thanks!
 -john W4PAH
 Madison, WI
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[Richard Ferch]

You're talking about connecting one RS-232 connector on the radio to two 
COM ports on the computer, right? You need to think about which lines 
are driven at which end. TxD, RTS and DTR signals are all created at the 
computer to be read at the other end; connecting line drivers from two 
different COM ports to the same receiver on these lines might not work. 
RxD comes from the radio to the computer; splitting it out to two COM 
ports might be OK, but wouldn't serve any purpose.

I think it'd be safer just to route DTR and RTS to one COM port and 
leave its RxD and TxD unconnected, and route TxD and RxD to the other 
COM port and leave its DTR and RTS unconnected.

73,
Rich VE3KI


W4AFP wrote:

 Do you think there would be a problem in letting both signals pass
 through to both COM ports? Wouldn't COM 1 only look for the
 appropriate rig control signals and COM 2 only look for the
 appropriate CW keying signals? Or not...?

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[Don Wilhelm]

John (and information for all)

You need to think about the fact that you are connecting two drivers 
together.
Then think about the fact that RS-232 drivers can provide output that 
ranges from +25 volts to -25 volts - OK most PC based ports do not have 
that much voltage, +12 and -5 volts is more common in the PC world.

Those drivers are voltage sources (generators).
If both drivers are in an idle (space) state, there may not be a 
problem, they are both trying to produce a positive voltage. However 
when one of them wants to send data, its output tries to go negative.  
So we have one driver trying to source a positive voltage and the other 
driver trying to source a negative voltage.  The best case result is 
that the voltage will settle in at some level between the two voltages 
- but that will be close to zero volts (absolute) and below the 
threshold where the receiver recognizes a valid signal voltage, but the 
more probable will be that the drivers will draw current from one 
another damaging either one of the semiconductor junctions or its 
positive or negative pullup resistor - whichever is weakest.

In other words - never connect 2 RS-232 drivers together.  Multiple 
receivers are OK, but multiple drivers are a No-No

73,
Don W3FPR


On 8/7/2012 5:54 PM, John Shadle wrote:
 Do you think there would be a problem in letting both signals pass
 through to both COM ports? Wouldn't COM 1 only look for the
 appropriate rig control signals and COM 2 only look for the
 appropriate CW keying signals? Or not...?

 Thanks, Iain!
 -john W4PAH

 On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 5:51 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML a...@dseven.org 
 wrote:
 On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 2:38 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
 Hi all,
 I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
 COM port on my desktop computer.

 I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency,
 mode, etc. information and for rig control (e.g., click on a spot and
 then the radio changes frequency/mode). Unfortunately, the program I
 use (AC Log by N3FJP) does not allow you to choose the same COM port
 for both rig control and CW keying.

 My question is whether or not I could use a splitter of some type (at
 the K3) to go to 2 separate ports (e.g., COM 1 and COM 2), then use
 COM 1 for rig control and COM 2 for keying. Has anyone else done this?
 Is this acceptable practice?
 Sure! It'd probably be safest to make the splitter yourself - the
 rig-control side needs TXD, RXD and ground, and the keying side
 needs RTS, DTR and ground.

 73,

  ~iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 again...

[Bill K9YEQ]

Don,

Great idea of using the lever to hold the set screw.  I have tried it by
hand with my Dremel and it is too difficult to hold.  I will try your
method.  I also suspect the set screw as the issue.  I have built a few kit
paddles and whether it is screws or set screws, the best method is a nice
round tip to avoid the problems.  I will also try the spring change as I
don't like any noise from my key and have purchased the latest ZNQRP paddle
with ultrafine threads and the Begali travel lite.  The KXPD3 with a finer
thread rounded point set screw would be more than perfect.  I don't know if
set screws come any finer, if they did, I would re-tap mine for said
improvement.  The Elecraft paddles are very reasonably priced so I know they
are very fair.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Donald Butler
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 10:39 AM
To: 'Pierre'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 again...

I finally got around to reshaping the cupped ends of the KXPD3 contact
screws as others have suggested, and it seems to have solved all of my
KXPD3 issues.  I can now adjust the paddles very tightly and no longer have
runaway dits or dahs.  I no longer have dropped dits or dahs, and I don't
have the random delayed response problem which I had been experiencing.

To accomplish the reshaping I disassembled the KXPD3, but left the screw in
each paddle (extended several turns to provide better access, and secured
with the set screw).  That provided a handle and allowed me to keep it under
control while using a fine white stone in my dental drill to do the shaping
(I'm a retired dentist and still have an old belt driven handpiece on my
workbench, but a Dremel mototool or something similar will work just as
well) and I just rounded off the cupped ends.
I didn't have to mess with the spring.  I have taken a few closeup photos of
the final result which I can post, but am not sure if the reflector will
allow jpeg attachments (what say Wayne?)

I also rotated the brass cylinders to move the wear marks (caused by the
sharp cupped screw ends) away from the contact area.

After several ragchew type qsos I'm confident that all of my previous
KXPD3 issues have been solved.

Don, N5LZ KX3 S/N 125 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Pierre
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 7:43 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KXPD3 again...


Hi folks,

 Well, after more than 2 months of operations with the KXPD3 and more than
350 QSOs, I still have trouble with that paddle. It occasionally misses
either a dit or a dah. On these occasions, when I push the paddle, the
contact don't produces anything.

 So far, the fixes that have read:

 - clean the black anodizing around the hole where the head of the thumb
screw sits. I was told that it was done at the factory starting at a S/N
earlier than mine, so I did not tried it. Maybe I should do it.
 - To 'file' the contacts screws.. Done this, but not much change...
 - Changing the spring: I did not do it, and wonder of it could be THE fix..

 It is a bit strange that after all the complaints about the KXPD3, Elecraft
has not fixed that once and for all...?

 About the spring, I would suggest that Elecraft provides us with a set of 3
to 4 new springs of different tensions so that we can test/choose the one
that works best for each user.

 73 de VE2PID KX3 S/N 190



--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KXPD3-again-tp7560531.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

I am talking about the PTT IN and the KEY jacks on the back of the K3 - 
not KEYOUT - that is an output, you are looking for inputs to the K3.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/7/2012 6:27 PM, John Shadle wrote:
 Thanks, Don. Are you talking about the PTT IN and KEY OUT RCA jacks?

 I Googled one transistor keying circuit and it came back with some
 amplifier keying circuits. Is that what I should be looking for, or
 something else? I'm sure the answer is obvious, but I'm just having a
 hard time seeing it. ;-)

 Take care.
 -john W4PAH

 On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 6:20 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 John,

 I would suggest that you use the one transistor keying circuit (Google and
 you will find many sources) for the keying and PTT. Connect the output of
 the one transistor keyer to the K3 rear panel keying input and PTT input.

 You will still have the problem that the computer will activate those
 signals when the computer boots, so boot the computer and than turn on the
 K3 - or take other common sense precautions like switching the K3 to a dummy
 load during computer boot times.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 8/7/2012 5:38 PM, John Shadle wrote:
 Hi all,
 I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
 COM port on my desktop computer.

 I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency,
 mode, etc. information and for rig control (e.g., click on a spot and
 then the radio changes frequency/mode). Unfortunately, the program I
 use (AC Log by N3FJP) does not allow you to choose the same COM port
 for both rig control and CW keying.

 My question is whether or not I could use a splitter of some type (at
 the K3) to go to 2 separate ports (e.g., COM 1 and COM 2), then use
 COM 1 for rig control and COM 2 for keying. Has anyone else done this?
 Is this acceptable practice?

 Thanks!
 -john W4PAH
 Madison, WI
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

The no frills one transistor circuit can be found at 
http://www.aa5au.com/rttyinterface.html
If you want to add a series resistor and a diode to protect the 
transistor from negative voltage excursions,  take a look at the circuit 
for PTT in http://www.qsl.net/w/wm2u/psk31.html.
There are also optocoupler solutions that do the same function.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/7/2012 6:27 PM, John Shadle wrote:
 Thanks, Don. Are you talking about the PTT IN and KEY OUT RCA jacks?

 I Googled one transistor keying circuit and it came back with some
 amplifier keying circuits. Is that what I should be looking for, or
 something else? I'm sure the answer is obvious, but I'm just having a
 hard time seeing it. ;-)

 Take care.
 -john W4PAH


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] splitting RS232 output for 2 serial ports

[Lance Collister, W7GJ]

Hi John,

As Don explained, you can use the ubiquitous 2N transistor circuit to 
either 
ground your PTT line from the RTS line of the serial port or KEY your 
transmitter 
from the DTR line of theRS232.   He also mentioned the optoisolator and that 
little 
50 cent chip is very convenient ;-)  I explained how you can use that on my web 
page:

http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj/KX3.htm

GL and VY 73, Lance


On 8/7/2012 10:27 PM, John Shadle wrote:
 Thanks, Don. Are you talking about the PTT IN and KEY OUT RCA jacks?

 I Googled one transistor keying circuit and it came back with some
 amplifier keying circuits. Is that what I should be looking for, or
 something else? I'm sure the answer is obvious, but I'm just having a
 hard time seeing it. ;-)

 Take care.
 -john W4PAH

 On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 6:20 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 John,

 I would suggest that you use the one transistor keying circuit (Google and
 you will find many sources) for the keying and PTT. Connect the output of
 the one transistor keyer to the K3 rear panel keying input and PTT input.

 You will still have the problem that the computer will activate those
 signals when the computer boots, so boot the computer and than turn on the
 K3 - or take other common sense precautions like switching the K3 to a dummy
 load during computer boot times.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 8/7/2012 5:38 PM, John Shadle wrote:
 Hi all,
 I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
 COM port on my desktop computer.

 I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency,
 mode, etc. information and for rig control (e.g., click on a spot and
 then the radio changes frequency/mode). Unfortunately, the program I
 use (AC Log by N3FJP) does not allow you to choose the same COM port
 for both rig control and CW keying.

 My question is whether or not I could use a splitter of some type (at
 the K3) to go to 2 separate ports (e.g., COM 1 and COM 2), then use
 COM 1 for rig control and COM 2 for keying. Has anyone else done this?
 Is this acceptable practice?

 Thanks!
 -john W4PAH
 Madison, WI
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-- 
Lance Collister, W7GJ
(ex WA3GPL, WA1JXN, WA1JXN/C6A, ZF2OC/ZF8, E51SIX, 3D2LR, 5W0GJ)
P.O. Box 73
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[Elecraft] WANTED TO BUY P3

[walter renner]

I have found a P3 and I want to thank everyone who replied. 

TNX  Kurt   -   K0ARO
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[Elecraft] Crystal Filters set up!!!!

[Alfredo Vélez WP3C]

Hi everyone

I need some help here and I’d like to have someone that helps me. I
installed to my K3 5 crystal filter and I would like to know how to set up
with Elecraft K3 Utility. The order of the filters is:

FL1 – KFL3A-1.8K  SSB/AM/FM

FL2 – KFL3A-2.1K  SSB/AM/FM

FL3 - KFL3A-2.8K  SSB/AM/FM

FL4 - KFL3A-400  CW/Data

FL5 - KFL3A-250  CW/Data

Thanks!!

Alfredo Velez WP3C/NP4DX

 

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[Elecraft] Testing, please disregard

[Richard Fjeld]

I am testing setting changes.


Rich, n0ce



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 TX power drifts upwards

[reliant325]

To Mike K2MK and Lyle KK7P

Thanks for the help and info.

I carried out the Cal which was fine and I re-adjusted the Audio as Lyle 
suggested ( the ALC was rather lower than advised)  and that seems to have 
sorted it.

Thanks all.

Roger G0IUW
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[Elecraft] Crystal Filters set up!!!!

[Johnny Siu]

Hello Alfredo,
 
According to the manual, the widest filter should be in FL1 and so on.  You can 
config the filters under 'configuration' of K3 Utility. You will get the 
required information under 'help' manual of the K3 utility.

TNX  73,


Johnny VR2XMC



 寄件人︰ Alfredo Vélez WP3C w...@aol.com
收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
傳送日期︰ 2012年08月8日 (週三) 8:33 AM
主題︰ [Elecraft] Crystal Filters set up
  
Hi everyone

I need some help here and I’d like to have someone that helps me. I
installed to my K3 5 crystal filter and I would like to know how to set up
with Elecraft K3 Utility. The order of the filters is:

FL1 – KFL3A-1.8K  SSB/AM/FM

FL2 – KFL3A-2.1K  SSB/AM/FM

FL3 - KFL3A-2.8K  SSB/AM/FM

FL4 - KFL3A-400  CW/Data

FL5 - KFL3A-250  CW/Data

Thanks!!

Alfredo Velez WP3C/NP4DX



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[Elecraft] An acknowledgment is available

[Richard Fjeld]

I just went into the Elecraft mailing list membership configuration and checked 
'yes' to the following question down in the gray area on the page;  
Receive acknowledgement mail when you send mail to the list?

I tested, and got the following acknowledgment.  

Your message entitled

Testing, please disregard

was successfully received by the Elecraft mailing list.


That's all I need to let me know things are working on both ends. It may have 
been there all along. As they say on cw, FB.

I have a question;  what does the option 'set globally' do for us?

Rich, n0ce


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Re: [Elecraft] Crystal Filters set up!!!!

[Jack Berry]

With the widest filter first, 
FL1 = 2.8 kHz
FL2 = 2.1 kHz
FL3 = 1.8 kHz
FL4 = 400 Hz
FL5 = 250 Hz

If you have trouble setting them in this order, let us know. Happy to help. 

73,
Jack - WE5ST


On Aug 7, 2012, at 7:33 PM, Alfredo Vélez WP3C w...@aol.com wrote:

 Hi everyone
 
 I need some help here and I’d like to have someone that helps me. I
 installed to my K3 5 crystal filter and I would like to know how to set up
 with Elecraft K3 Utility. The order of the filters is:
 
 FL1 – KFL3A-1.8K  SSB/AM/FM
 
 FL2 – KFL3A-2.1K  SSB/AM/FM
 
 FL3 - KFL3A-2.8K  SSB/AM/FM
 
 FL4 - KFL3A-400  CW/Data
 
 FL5 - KFL3A-250  CW/Data
 
 Thanks!!
 
 Alfredo Velez WP3C/NP4DX
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Can I split or share my ACC port?

[Chip Stratton]

Sounds like this applies to the K2 also?

I have a K2 and KAT100. When used together no I/O port is left for rig
control/data. Would a simple splitter cable be likely to cause problems
between the K2 and KAT100 if the computer is in the mix too, or is that
only likely to happen if if the computer tries to talk at the same time as
the K2 or KAT100?

Thanks,
Chip
AE5KA



On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 5:07 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Hugh,

 Certainly the ACC port can be split out to multiple destinations. But be
 careful if any one signal line is driving (or receiving) multiple
 boxes.  The original K3 design used open drain drivers on the signal
 lines so that the pullup resistors could be located in the most remote
 box while any other boxes on that same line would not have a pullup
 resistor.

 (soapbox on)
 But then many hams did not know what pullup resistors were, nor how to
 use open drain output drivers - and most other ham gear did not have
 provisions for adding pullup resistors at the end of the signal line -
 as a result the pullup resistors were moved into the K3 by
 modifications.  One of the complications that created was in the KPA500
 design where the KPA500 had to provide protection diodes on the band
 data lines because some band decoders put higher voltages on those lines
 - the K3 can handle that, but the KPA500 input circuits could not.
 (soapbox off)

 So, yes, you can split out the ACC connector to multiple places. Only
 one caution - if a single signal goes to multiple places, look at the
 situation carefully.  In general, there should be only one driver on any
 one signal line.  Multiple receivers are usually OK, but multiple
 drivers are a recipe for trouble.
 Do NOT use a VGA splitter - find a splitter that implements all 15
 pins.  Many VGA splitters connect several lines to a common pin or pins.
 An alternative is to split out the 15 pin connector to individual signal
 connection points (a fan-out box).


 The RS-232 connection is different - that is a point to point signalling
 standard.  It can not be used with multiple drivers. Yes, there is a Y
 cable that can be used with the SteppIR controller, but that is because
 SteppIR put in a special mode where it only listens on the RS-232
 traffic, it does not transmit - therefore in that mode, the SteppIR end
 disconnects any RS-232 drivers.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 8/7/2012 4:43 PM, Hugh Bradley wrote:
  I spend a lot of my time connecting and disconnecting accessories from
 the
  back of my K3 and I find this tedious.
 
  In my shack I have a, Expert 1K linear amp and a Microkeyer II which both
  like to use the ACC Port on the K3 I use a Remote-rig unit to control the
  K3 when I am away and this too needs the ACC.
 
  Instead of connecting one of these items at a time, is it OK to use a VGA
  cable splitter and have both or three connected simultaneously?
 

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[Elecraft] K3 and FM mode.

[Stan Grigaliunas]

I purchased K3/100F in April of this year.  Great little radio.  I began to 
play with the K3_EZ and when I asked to Scan and populate the “K3 info” I have 
noticed that under Main Filter Bandwidth the FL1  is vacant and FL2 is 6.0, FL3 
is 2.70, FL4 and FL5 are vacant.  I thought I purchased the KFL3B-FM also.  In 
checking the invoice, I did find the FM filter listed in the invoice.  As of 
this date, I have not found anyone to talk on 10 meter FM so I am not sure if 
it is working or not.  My question is, should the FM filter appear on the K3 
Info?  If it should, then cracking open the box and physically looking for the 
FM filter would be my next move.  From reading the manual, I understood that 
the widest filters should be in FL1 position.  Am I all wet?  73, Stan
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[Elecraft] Battery Box Screws for KX3.

[John Lally]

I have found that 2-56 X 5/16 screws are the perfect fit for the battery
box. The batteries fit and the battery box fit perfectly into the radio.  I
suggest using these screws for the battery box.

 

John Lally

W7JJL

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Re: [Elecraft] Can I split or share my ACC port?

[Don Wilhelm]

Yes, something similar applies to the K2 and KAT100.
Chip, note carefully that the K2 ACC I/O cable depicted in the KPA100 
manual contains wires that connect to the PC - TXD, RXD and Signal 
Ground *only*.

The cable to the KAT100 does not contain any of those wires (other than 
a connection to the shield on pin 1).  The cable configuration that is 
depicted in the KAT100 manual is the equivalent of an effective Y 
cable specific to the K2/100 and the KAT100.

Note carefully that this is not a splitter - pins 2 and 3 are routed 
to the PC and pins 6 through 9 are routed to the KPA100. This is a cable 
that will put the correct signals in the right places, but it has 
nothing to do with an RS-232 splitter.

Look carefully at the labeling on the K2 DB-9 connector - it is clearly 
labeled AUX I/O.  Do read that literally,   It is *NOT* an rs-232 
connector.  In addition to the 2 RS-232 level signals  for TXD and RXD 
(and signal ground) there are internal K2 signals to support an external 
KPA100, or the KAT100 or the KRC2 or the XV series transverters.

A 9 pin DB-9 connector does not equal an RS-232 serial port, it is just 
a connector with 9 pins - read the details in the instructions before 
making assumptions that can damage your transceiver.

As a parallel, my church bought a soundboard that had a DB-25 connector 
on the rear panel.  We could have assumed it was an LPT printer port, 
but that did not make much sense, so the next step was to assume that it 
was a full implementation of a serial port.  A review of the soundboard 
documentation revealed that it was just a 25 pin connector that could be 
used to connect special effects devices to the soundboard.

Bottom line - do not make any assumptions about the signals in a 
connector just because it looks like a typical computer connector.  It 
may be something entirely different, and connecting a computer port to 
that connector can do damage either to the computer or to the device you 
are connecting.

Know the interface that you are attempting to connect, and that has 
nothing to do with the connector - a 25 pin connector contains 25 
signals and may or may not be a printer connector, and a 9 pin connector 
is simply a 9 pin connector and may or may not be an RS-232 connector - 
unless you have information to the contrary, consider all those 
connectors as just connectors and divorce them from the pseudo-standard 
provided by the IBM PC (which did not meet the standards of the day when 
it was introduced).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/7/2012 10:04 PM, Chip Stratton wrote:
 Sounds like this applies to the K2 also?

 I have a K2 and KAT100. When used together no I/O port is left for rig
 control/data. Would a simple splitter cable be likely to cause problems
 between the K2 and KAT100 if the computer is in the mix too, or is that
 only likely to happen if if the computer tries to talk at the same time as
 the K2 or KAT100?



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and FM mode.

[Don Wilhelm]

Stan,

It is a matter of 6 or 7 screws to remove the top cover and examine the 
installed filters.
You need to tell K3-EZ which filters you have installed because K3-EZ 
has no mechanism to determine the filter width, that is information that 
you must provide.

 From your filter designations it appears that your FL1 is unpopulated 
in your configuration and that FL2 and FL3 are populated.  Open the top 
cover and check the actual filters installed  This may be a case where 
your filters were not set up properly, or in the worst case, if you 
ordered the 13 MHz FM filter and it is not installed, you have a beef 
with Elecraft, and that situation should be promptly resolved.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/7/2012 10:51 PM, Stan Grigaliunas wrote:
 I purchased K3/100F in April of this year.  Great little radio.  I began to 
 play with the K3_EZ and when I asked to Scan and populate the “K3 info” I 
 have noticed that under Main Filter Bandwidth the FL1  is vacant and FL2 is 
 6.0, FL3 is 2.70, FL4 and FL5 are vacant.  I thought I purchased the KFL3B-FM 
 also.  In checking the invoice, I did find the FM filter listed in the 
 invoice.  As of this date, I have not found anyone to talk on 10 meter FM so 
 I am not sure if it is working or not.  My question is, should the FM filter 
 appear on the K3 Info?  If it should, then cracking open the box and 
 physically looking for the FM filter would be my next move.  From reading the 
 manual, I understood that the widest filters should be in FL1 position.  Am I 
 all wet?  73, Stan
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3- K3-EZ and the KX-3

[John_N1JM]

Where did you find it? The link I have is not good anymore.



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Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Can I split or share my ACC port?

[Don Wilhelm]

Actually this applies to any serial port connection.

In the specifics of the KPA100 and KAT100, there is the RXD andTXD 
(along with signal ground) that go to the PC while the rest of the 
internal K2 signals connect to the KAT100.

So bottom line, a splitter cable will not work properly, the easy 
solution is to construct the cable wiring depicted in the KAT100 manual.

73,,
Don W3FPR
On 8/7/2012 10:04 PM, Chip Stratton wrote:
 Sounds like this applies to the K2 also?

 I have a K2 and KAT100. When used together no I/O port is left for rig
 control/data. Would a simple splitter cable be likely to cause problems
 between the K2 and KAT100 if the computer is in the mix too, or is that
 only likely to happen if if the computer tries to talk at the same time as
 the K2 or KAT100?

 Thanks,
 Chip
 AE5KA



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